CHAPTER XII
.
THE RETURN TO MUONIOVARA.
Advantages of Lapp Costume--Turning Southward--Departure from Kautokeino--A Lapp Hut--Religion--The Reindeer--Their Qualities --Treatment by the Lapps--Annoyances of Reindeer Travel--Endurance of Northern Girls--The Table-Land--The "Roof of the World"--Journey to Lippajärvi--Descent to the Muonio--Female Curiosity--The Return to Muoniovara--Prosaic Life of the Lapps--Modern Prudery. 141
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