Chapter VI

. the altitudes of such high peaks in India as Nanda Devi and others are taken from the Trigonometrical Survey, and so are the positions fixed by astronomical observations of the starting and terminating points of my surveys at the places where I entered and left Tibet.

In the orthography of geographical names I have adopted the course advised by the Royal Geographical Society--viz., to give the names their true sound as they are locally pronounced, and I have made no exception even for the grand and poetic "Himahlya" which is in English usually distorted into the unmusical and unromantic word "Himalayas."

I submit with all deference the following geographical results of my expedition:

The solution of the uncertainty regarding the division of the Mansarowar and Rakstal Lakes.

The ascent to so great an altitude as 22,000 feet, and the pictures of some of the great Himahlyan glaciers.

The visit to and the fixing of the position of the two principal sources of the Brahmaputra, never before reached by a European.

The fact that with only two men I was able to travel for so long in the most populated part of Tibet.

In addition to the above, I am glad to state that owing to the publicity which I gave on my return to the outrageous Tibetan abuses taking place on British soil, the Government of India at last, in the summer of 1898, notified the Tibetan authorities that they will no longer be permitted to collect Land Revenue from British subjects there. This fact gives me special satisfaction, because of the exceptional courtesy and kindness bestowed on me by our mountain tribesmen, the Shokas.

The Government Report of the official Investigation of my case, as well as other documents substantiating the details of my narrative, are printed in an appendix.

A. H. S. L.

_May 1899_

CONTENTS

PREFACE p. ix

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS p. xxii

I FROM LONDON TO NAINI TAL Pp. 1-3

II Loads--A set of useful pack-saddle cases--Provisions and scientific outfit--Clothes and shoes--Medicines--Under way--The first march--Servants--How I came to employ faithful Chanden Sing pp. 4-10

III Pithoragarh--Fakir women--A well-ventilated abode--Askote--The Rajiwar and his people Pp. 11-16

IV The Raots--A slippery journey--Superstitious notions--Anger and jealousy--Friends--To the homes of the savages--Photography--Habitations Pp. 17-26

V A pilgrim from Mansarowar Lake--The spirits of the mountains--A safeguard against them--Tibetan encampments--The Rajiwar--A waterfall--Watermills Pp. 27-34

VI Highways and trade routes--The Darma route--The Dholi River--A rough track connecting two valleys--Glaciers--Three ranges and their peaks--Altitudes--_Darma, Johar_, and the _Painkhanda_ Parganas--The highest peak in the British Empire--Natural boundaries Pp. 35-40

VII The word _Bhot_ and its meaning--Tibetan influence--Tibetan abuses--The ever-helpful Chanden Sing--The first Shoka village--Chanden Sing in disgrace--Weaving-loom--Fabrics--All's well that ends well Pp. 41-45

VIII Prayers by wind-power--Photography under difficulties--A night of misery--Drying up--Two lady missionaries--Their valuable work--An interesting dinner party--An "eccentric" man's tea party Pp. 46-52

IX Discouraging reports--A steep ascent--How I came to deserve the name of "monkey"--Hard at work--Promoted in rank--Collapse in a gale of wind--Time and labour lost Pp. 53-56

X The _Nerpani_, or "waterless track"--Exaggerated accounts--A long shot--The rescue of two coolies--Picturesque Nature--An involuntary shower-bath--The _Chai_ Pass Pp. 57-62

XI A series of misfortunes--Tibetan atrocities on British subjects--Tibetan exactions--Revolting cruelty to one of her Majesty's subjects--Assault on a British officer--A smart British Envoy Pp. 63-68

XII Tibetan threats--My birthday--Ravenous dogs--A big dinner--Shoka hospitality Pp. 69-73

XIII Shoka hospitality--How I obtained much information--On a reconnoitring trip--A terrible slide Pp. 74-80

XIV A palaver--To see is to believe--Dangers and perils on the snow and ice--_Thar_ and _Ghural_--Stalking--A tiring climb to 16,000 feet--The collapse of a snow bridge Pp. 81-85

XV An earthquake--Curious notions of the natives--A Shoka tailor and his ways--The arrival of silver cash--Two rocks in the Kali--Arrogance of a Tibetan spy Pp. 86-91

XVI The _Rambang_--Shoka music--Love-songs--Doleful singing--Abrupt ending--Solos--Smoking--When marriage is contemplated--The _Delang_--Adultery--Punishment Pp. 92-97

XVII FUNERAL RITES: Departure of the Soul--Cremation--Amusement of the dead man's soul--The lay figure--Feasting--Doleful dance--Transmigration of the soul--Expensive ceremonies--Offerings before the lay figure--Dancing and contortions--Martial dances--Solo dances--The animal to be sacrificed and the lay figure--Chasing the animal from the village--Tearing out its heart--The yak driven over a precipice--Head shaving--A sacred cave Pp. 98-110

XVIII Touching Shoka farewell--Feelings curiously expressed--Sobs and tears--The start--A funereal procession--Distressed father and mother--Kachi and Dola the worse for drink--Anxious moments--The bridge destroyed Pp. 111-115

XIX A dangerous track--Perilous passage--A curious bridge over a precipice--Pathetic Shoka custom--Small misadventures--A grand reception--Tea for all tastes Pp. 116-119

XX Dr. Wilson joins my expedition for a few marches--What misdeeds a photographic camera can do--Weighing, dividing, and packing provisions--Two extra men wanted--The last friendly faces Pp. 120-122

XXI The Kuti Castle--Under way--Our first disaster--A cheerful and a sulky coolie--Mansing--A brigand--A strange medley of followers--A character--Tailoring--Fields of stones--Troublesome rivers--The Jolinkan or Lebung Pass--Sense of humour--Pleased with small comforts Pp. 123-130

XXII Want of fuel--Cooking under difficulty--Mansing lost and found--Saved from summary justice--Tibetan visitors--We purchase sheep--The snow-line--Cold streams--The petrified _chapati_ and human hand Pp. 131-136

XXIII The scout's return--A small exploring party--The Mangshan glacier Pp. 137-140

XXIV Snow and troublesome _debris_--The doctor's sufferings--Kachi disabled--Further trials--A weird apparition--Delirium--All safe--The descent Pp. 141-147

XXV The sources of the Kuti River--The Lumpiya glacier--The summit of the range--Bird's-eye view of Tibet--Rubso frozen almost to death--The Lumpiya Pass--Two coolies in distress Pp. 148-153

XXVI Mysterious footprints--Brigand or spy?--Passes and tracks--Intense cold--No fuel--A high flat plateau--Fuel at last!--Two spies in disguise--What they took us for Pp. 154-157

XXVII Lama Chokden--A Tibetan guard--The sacred Kelas--Reverence of my men for the sacred Mountain--Trying hard to keep friends with the gods--_Obos_--Water flowing to us Pp. 158-161

XXVIII An extensive valley--Kiang, or wild horse--Their strange ways--The Gyanema fort--Apprehension at our appearance--A parley--"Cut off our heads!"--Revolt and murder contemplated--Hypocritica ways of Tibetan officials--Help summoned from everywhere--Preparing for war Pp. 162-166

XXIX Arrival of a high official--The Barca Tarjum--A tedious palaver--The Tarjum's anxiety--Permission to proceed--A traitor--Entreated to retrace our steps--Thirty armed horsemen--A pretty speech Pp. 167-173

XXX Spying our movements--Disguised sepoys--A gloomy look-out--Troublesome followers--Another march back--An amusing incident Pp. 174-177

XXXI An attempt that failed--A resolution--A smart Shoka lad--The plucky Chanden Sing proposes to accompany me--Mansing the leper becomes my servant's servant Pp. 178-181

XXXII "Devil's Camp"--A fierce snowstorm--Abandoning our tents--Dangers and perils in prospect--Collecting the men--One load too many!--Another man wanted and found--A propitious night--Good-bye to Wilson--The escape--Brigands Pp. 182-186

XXXIII S.E. wind--Hungry and half frozen--Lakes at 18,960 feet above sea-level--Cold food at high altitudes--Buried in snow--Mansing's sufferings--Fuel at last Pp. 187-191

XXXIV Dacoits--No nonsense allowed--A much-frequented region--A plateau--The Gyanema-Taklakot track--A dangerous spot--Soldiers waiting for us--Burying our baggage--Out of provisions--A fall into the Gakkon River--A bright idea--Nettles our only diet Pp. 192-197

XXXV All that remained of my men's provisions--The plan to enter the fort--Appearance of yaks--A band of brigands--Erecting fortifications--Changes in the temperature--Soldiers in search of us Pp. 198-201

XXXVI "Terror Camp"--Two more messengers leave camp--A tribe of Dogpas--A strange sahib--Our messengers return from Taklakot--The account and adventures of their mission--In great distress--Two fakirs who suffered through me--Five hundred rupees offered for my head--The Shokas want to abandon me--A plot--How it failed Pp. 202-206

XXXVII A Tibetan guard's encampment--Nattoo volunteers to be a guide--Treachery and punishment of the Shokas--All ways forward barred to me--Evading the soldiers by another perilous march at night--Mansing again lost--A marvellous phenomenon--Sufferings of my men--Severe cold Pp. 207-210

XXXVIII Night marching--The Lafan and Mafan Lakes--Tize, the sacred Kelas--Rhubarb--Butterflies--A hermit Lama--More Dacoits--Surrounded by them--Routed Pp. 211-216

XXXIX Spied and followed by robbers--Jogpas' hospitality--Hares--Tibetan charms resisted--Attempt to snatch Chanden Sing's rifle out of his hands--The ridge between the Rakas and Mansarowar Lakes Pp. 217-219

XL More robbers--The friends of Tibetan authorities--A snap-shot--A meek lot--Prepossessing female and her curious ways--The purchase of two yaks Pp. 220-224

XLI Tibetan coats, hats, and boots--Why a Tibetan prefers to leave half the chest and one arm bare--Ornamentations--Manner and speech--Ignorance and superstition--Way of eating--Jogpa women and children--Head-dress Pp. 225-230

XLII A Daku's strange ideas--The ridge between the two lakes--Black tents--Confronting the two lakes--A chain of high peaks--Gombas--Change in the weather Pp. 231-234

XLIII The Langa Tsangpo--A terrific storm--Drenched to the skin--Heavy marching--Against the gods--Difficulty in finding the Lamasery and village--A bark!--Arrival at last--Gentle tapping--Under a roof Pp. 235-238

XLIV The interior of a _serai_--Vermin--Fish, local jewellery, and pottery for sale--Favourite shapes and patterns--How pottery is made Pp. 239-241

XLV Friendly Lamas--Chanden Sing and Mansing purified--Mansing's sarcasm--Pilgrims to Mansarowar and their privileges--For luck!--Outside the Gomba Pp. 242-244

XLVI Entering the Lamasery--The Lama's dwelling--Novices--Were we in a trap?--Images--Oblations--Urghin--The holy water, the veil of friendship, and absolution--Musical instruments, books, &c.--God and the Trinity--Heaven and hell--A mystery Pp. 245-248

XLVII The Jong Pen's statements regarding me--Sects of Lamas--Lamaseries--Government allowance--Ignorance of the crowds--How Lamas are recruited--Lamas, novices, and menials--Dances and hypnotism--Infallibility--Celibacy and vice--Sculptors--Prayer-wheels and revolving instruments--Nunneries--Human bones for eating vessels and musical instruments--Blood-drinking Pp. 249-256

XLVIII Illnesses and remedies--Curious theories about fever--Evil spirits--Blacksmith and dentist--Exorcisms--Surgical operations--Massage and cupping--Incurable illnesses--Deformities--Deafness--Fits and insanity--Melancholia--Suicides Pp. 257-264

XLIX A Tibetan medicine-man--Lumbago, and a startling cure for it--Combustible fuses--Fire and butter--Prayers, agony and distortions--Strange ideas on medicine Pp. 265-267

L Tucker village--Chokdens--Houses--Flying prayers--Soldiers or robbers?--A stampede--Fresh provisions--Disappointment--Treachery--Shokas leave me--Observations--Five men, all counted! Pp. 268-270

LI The start with a further reduced party--A reconnaissance--Natural fortress--Black tents and animals--On the wrong tack--Slings and their use--A visit to a Tibetan camp--Mistaken for brigands--Bargaining and begging Pp. 271-275

LII What the men were like--Their timidity--Leather work--Metal work--Blades and swords--Filigree--Saddles and harness--Pack saddles Pp. 276-279

LIII Rain in torrents--A miserable night--A gorge--A gigantic inscription--Sheltered under boulders--A fresh surprise--Only two followers left Pp. 280-282

LIV My time fully occupied--Our own yak drivers--A heavy blow--Along the stream--Soldiers in pursuit of us--Discovered Pp. 283-286

LV An interview--Peace or war?--Gifts and the scarf of friendship--The _Kata_--The end of a friendly visit Pp. 287-289

LVI Rain in torrents--A swampy plain--The sun at last--Our yaks stolen and recovered Pp. 290-294

LVII Travelling Tibetans--Over a high pass--A friendly meeting--A proffered banquet--Ascent to 20,000 feet--Looking for the Gunkyo Lake--Surprised by a phantom army Pp. 295-297

LVIII A sleepless night--Watching our enemy--A picturesque sight--A messenger--Soldiers from Lhassa--Taken for a Kashmeree--The Gunkyo Lake Pp. 298-301

LIX In pleasant company--Unpopularity of the Lamas--Soldiers--Towards the Maium Pass--Grass--Threats--Puzzled Tibetans--The Maium Pass--Obos Pp. 302-305

LX The Maium Pass--Into the Yutzang province--Its capital--The Doktol province--Orders disregarded--The sources of the Brahmaputra--Change in the climate--The valley of the Brahmaputra--Running risks Pp. 306-308

LXI Expecting trouble--Along the Brahmaputra--A thunderstorm--A dilemma--A dangerous river--Swamped--Saved--Night disturbers--A new friend Pp. 309-312

LXII Leaving the course of the river--A pass--An arid plain--More vanishing soldiers--Another river--A _mani_ wall--_Mirage?_--A large Tibetan encampment--The chain of mountains north of us Pp. 313-315

LXIII A commotion--An invitation declined--The tents--Delicacies--The _Chokseh_ Pp. 316-320

LXIV Refusal to sell food--Women--Their looks and characteristics--The _Tchukti_--A Lhassa lady Pp. 321-326

LXV Polyandry--Marriage ceremonies--Jealousy--Divorce--Identification of children--Courtship--Illegitimacy--Adultery Pp. 327-333

LXVI Tibetan funerals--Disposal of their dead--By cremation--By water--Cannibalism--Strange beliefs--Revolting barbarity--Drinking human blood--The saints of Tibet Pp. 334-337

LXVII Another commotion--Two hundred soldiers--A stampede--Easy travelling--A long _mani_ wall--Mosquitoes Pp. 338-341

LXVIII Washing-day--A long march--_Kiang_ and antelope--Benighted--The purchase of a goat--Ramifications of the Brahmaputra--A detour--Through a swamp--Mansing again lost and found Pp. 342-345

LXIX The alarm given--Our bad manners--A peaceful settlement--A large river--Gigantic peak--Again on marshy soil Pp. 346-348

LXX Another Tibetan encampment--Uncontrollable animals--A big stream--Washed away--In dreadful suspense--Rescuing the yak--Diving at great altitudes and its effects--How my two followers got across--A precarious outlook and a little comfort Pp. 349-351

LXXI Hungry and worn--A sense of humour--Two buckets of milk--No food to be obtained--Chanden Sing and Mansing in a wretched state--Their fidelity--Exhaustion Pp. 352-354

LXXII Eighty black tents--Starved--Kindly natives--Presents--Ando and his promises--A Friendly Lama--A low pass--My plans Pp. 355-357

LXXIII Strange noises--Ando the traitor--Purchasing provisions and ponies--A handsome pony--Decoyed away from my tent and rifles--Pounced upon--The fight--A prisoner Pp. 358-361

LXXIV Chanden Sing's plucky resistance--Mansing secured--A signal--A treacherous Lama--Confiscation of baggage--Watches, compasses and aneroids--Fear and avidity--The air-cushion--Dragged into the encampment Pp. 362-366

LXXV A warning to my men--Calm and coolness--The Pombo's tent--Chanden Sing cross-examined and flogged Pp. 367-369

LXXVI Led before the tribunal--The Pombo--Classical Tibetan beyond me--Chanden Sing lashed--The Lamas puzzled--A sudden change in the Pombo's attitude Pp. 370-373

LXXVII My note-books and maps--What the Lamas wanted me to say--My refusal--Anger and threats--Ando the traitor--Chanden Sing's heroism--A scene of cruelty--Rain Pp. 374-376

LXXVIII A high military officer--A likely friend--A soldier and not a Lama--His sympathy--Facts about the Tibetan army Pp. 377-379

LXXIX Sarcasm appreciated--Kindness--A change for the worse--The place for an Englishman--Vermin--A Tibetan prayer Pp. 380-382

LXXX The Rupun as a friend--Treated with respect and deference--Fed by the Rupun and soldiers--Improving my knowledge of Tibetan Pp. 383-385

LXXXI A bearer of bad news--Marched off to the mud-house--Mansing--Insults and humiliations--Iron handcuffs instead of ropes--The Rupun's sympathy--No more hope--In the hands of the mob Pp. 386-389

LXXXII A pitiful scene--A struggle to get to Chanden Sing--Brutally treated--A torturing saddle--Across country at a gallop--A spirited pony--Sand deposits and hills--Speculation--More horsemen coming towards us Pp. 390-392

LXXXIII At an unpleasant pace--Drawing near the cavalcade--A picturesque sight--A shot fired at me--Terrible effects of the spikes along my spine--The rope breaks--An ill omen--A second shot misses me--Arrows--The end of my terrible ride Pp. 393-397

LXXXIV Intense pain--Hustled to the execution-ground--Stretched and tied--Thirsting for blood--A parade of torturing appliances--The music--The _Taram_ Pp. 398-401

LXXXV Bleeding all over--Insulted and spat upon--"Kill him!"--Urging on the executioner--Refusal to stoop--An unpleasant sword exercise--The execution suspended Pp. 402-405

LXXXVI Mansing arrives--A pretence of killing him--Our execution postponed--Fed by the Lamas Pp. 406-407

LXXXVII Happiness checked--Stretched on the rack--Mansing shares my fate--Drenched and in rags--An unsolved mystery Pp. 408-410

LXXXVIII Mansing partially untied after twelve hours on the rack--Numbed--How the brain works under such circumstances--My scientific instruments--The end of my photographic plates--A paint-box accused of occult powers--An offer refused--Courtesy and cruelty combined Pp. 411-412

LXXXIX An unknown article in Tibet--My sponge bewitched--A Lama fires my Martini-Henry--The rifle bursts Pp. 413-415

XC A consultation--Untied from the rack--The most terrible twenty-four hours of my life--I lose the use of my feet--Circulation returning--Intense pain--Sports Pp. 416-417

XCI A great relief--The Pombo's attentions--A weird hypnotic dance Pp. 418-420

XCII Compliments exchanged--A poisoned drink proffered--In acute pain--Uncertainty as to our fate--Working the oracle--My webbed fingers Pp. 421-423

XCIII Our lives to be spared--An unpleasant march--Chanden Sing still alive--A sleepless night--Towards the frontier--Long and painful marches--How we slept at night--A map drawn with blood Pp. 424-428

XCIV South of the outward journey--Severity of our guard--Ventriloquism and its effects--Terrible but instructive days--The Southern source of the Brahmaputra--Leaving Yutzang Pp. 429-430

XCV Easier times--Large encampments--Suffocating a goat--A Tarjum's encampment--Tokchim--Old friends--Musicians--Charity Pp. 431-434

XCVI Towards Mansarowar--Mansing's vision--Bathing in Mansarowar Pp. 435-437

XCVII Suna--Wilson and the Political Peshkar across the frontier--A messenger--Our progress stopped--Diverting us over the Lumpiya Pass--Condemned to certain death--We attack our guard--Lapsang and the Jong Pen's private secretary--A document--Nearing Kardam--Retracing our steps--Dogmar Pp. 438-444

XCVIII A Commotion--The arrival of an army--Elected General-in-chief--How we were to slaughter the Jong Pen's soldiers--My men lay down their arms--Towards Taklakot--Delaling and Sibling--Taklakot at last Pp. 445-449

XCIX Free at last--Among friends--Forgetting our past troubles--Confiscated baggage returned--A scene with Nerba--Suna's message delivered--How our release was brought about--Across the frontier--Photography at Gungi Pp. 450-456

C Civilisation once more--Paralysis--The Tinker Pass in Nepal--Kindly natives--Mr. Larkin--Government Inquiry--Back to Tibet--Final good-bye to the Forbidden Land--The return journey--Farewell to Mansing--Home again Pp. 457-470

APPENDIX Pp. 471-501

INDEX Pp. 503-508

HEINEMANN PUBLICATIONS AND ANNOUNCEMENTS

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

A. Henry Savage Landor and his Two Faithful Servants Frontispiece A Chinese Passport 1 My Faithful Companion 7 My Start from Naini Tal 9 Castle at Pithoragarh 12 Lepers 13 My Abode at Askote 14 A Young Man 17 Raot on Tree 18 Raots 19 Head of Young Man 21 Two Men with Children sitting down 22 A Young Man 24 Raot Women of the Forest 26 The Rajiwar of Askote, his Brother and Son 27 Fakir Returning from Mansarowar 28 The Rajiwar and his Brother in Dandies 32 View of the Himahlyas--showing Nanda Devi and Trisul Peaks 35 Darma Shokas and Tibetans 36 View of the Himahlyas. Showing Nanda Devi and Trisul Peaks 37 Shoka Weavers 42 Shrine and Flying Prayers 46 Wrinkled Shoka 48 Lal Sing Tokudar and his Brother 49 House of a Wealthy Shoka 51 The Tent 55 Nerpani Road 57 The Nerpani Road 58 The Nerpani Track 59 The Nerpani Road 59 The Chai-Lek (Pass) 60 A Narrow Gorge between Two Mountains 61 The Gates of Garbyang 64 Matan Sing Chaprassi 66 Narenghiri Chaprassi 66 Garbyang 67 The House where I Stayed at Garbyang 69 Shoka House with Strange Ladder 71 Shoka Houses 72 Shoka Child Smeared with Butter which is Left to be Absorbed in the Sun 73 Shoka Child being Smeared with Butter 75 The Master of a High School, Altitude 10,940 Feet 76 Gungi Shankom 77 Zazzela Mount, near Gungi 78 Involuntary Tobogganing 79 Chiram 80 Kuti 82 Snow Bridges over the Kuti River 83 Old Shoka Woman Smoking 84 A Well-attended School 87 My Banker and Agent 88 The Valley of Garbyang 89 Chanden Sing and the Daku Rolling up my Bedding 91 Motema, a Shoka Beauty 92 On the Way to the Rambang 93 Shoka Earrings 94 Silver Earrings of Tibetan Origin with Coral Beads 95 Shoka Woman Weaving 96 Rambang Girls with Ornaments 97 Weeping Women under White Cloth 99 Shoka Funeral Pile 100 Women Dusting and Caressing the Lay Figure 101 Women Dancing Round the Lay Figure 102 Dance in Front of Deceased Man's House 103 The Goat with Soul of Deceased being Fed 104 Goat with Soul and Clothes of Deceased 105 Sending the Goat away from the Village 106 Martial Dance round Lay Figure 107 Tearing out the Heart of the Goat 108 Yak driven over Precipice 109 Kachi and his Relations 111 The Patan Summoning my Coolies from the Roof of his House 112 The Chongur Bridge Previous to being Destroyed 114 A Perilous Passage 117 The Photograph that Caused the Child's Death 121 Plan of Kuti Castle 123 The Kuti Castle 125 Mansing the Leper showing his Hands 126 The Jolinkan or Lebung Pass 128 Camping in Snow 133 The Snow-Line at 16,000 Feet 135 The Mangshan Glacier 139 The Spectre and Circular Rainbow 145 "I Roused the Rongba" 146 Ascending the Lumpiya Pass 149 The Lumpiya Glacier and Pass 151 Spied 155 My Men Salaaming Kelas at Lama Chokden 159 The Arrival of Reinforcements 169 The Barca Tarjum and his Officers 171 "At Night I led my men up the mountain in a fierce snowstorm" 183 Buried in Snow 189 Sheep Carrying Load 193 Dacoits with a Booty of Sheep 195 Behind our Bulwarks 199 Our First View of Rakastal 212 Rakastal and Mansarowar Lakes 214 A Dacoit 219 The Bandits laid down their Arms 221 Pack-saddles for Yaks 223 White Woollen Coat and Sashes 226 Woollen Socks 226 Man's Boot, Made at Sigatz; Snow Boot 227 Woman's Boot; Boot Made in Lhassa 227 Hat, as Worn by Officials 228 A Black Yak 232 A Tibetan Fortune Teller 234 My Two Yaks 237 Silver Lhassa Coins 239 Copper Coins; Earring Worn by Men 240 Silver Charm 240 Gold and Malachite Brooch 240 Mansarowar Pottery 241 Entrance to the Tucker Temple 246 Tucker Village and Gomba 251 Stone with Inscription 254 Prayer-wheels--Ancient and Modern. Showing Rolls of Prayers to Go Inside 255 Stone with Inscription 256 Branch with Thorns to Prevent Return of Evil Spirits 260 The Tokchim Tarjum 264 A Medicine-man 267 The Panku Gomba 269 Sling 272 A Natural Castle 273 Woman carrying Child in Basket 274 Tibetan Young Man 277 Swords 278 Saddle 279 Camp with Gigantic Inscription 281 Yak with Cases of Scientific Instruments 284 With only Two Men I proceeded towards Lhassa 285 A Kala 288 Torrential Rain 291 Head of Brigand 292 Brigands with Sheep 293 Saddle Bags 294 Phantom-like Visitors 296 The Gunkyo Lake 299 "I am only a Messenger" 300 Flying Prayers on the Maium Pass 303 Matchlocks 304 Source of the Brahmaputra 307 Tibetan Dog 310 Small Mani Wall 311 An Effect of Mirage 314 Black Tent 317 A Dongbo, or Tea Churn 318 The Interior of a Tent 319 Tsamgo 320 Small Tsamba Bag, carried on the Person by Tibetans 320 Tibetan Hair-brushes and Flint-and-steel Pouch 322 Tibetan Women and Children 323 The Tchukti 324 A Lady from Lhassa 325 Money Bags 326 Woman whose Face is Smeared with Black Ointment 328 Tibetan Woman 329 The Lady in Question 330 Tibetan Children 331 A Young Lama 334 A Red Lama 335 Cup made of a Human Skull 336 Chokden, or Tomb of a Saint 336 A Mani Wall on the Road to Lhassa 339 "And I give you this to make you go back" 340 Kiang 343 Our Yaks Sinking in Mud 344 Carpenter and Saddle-maker 347 Old Woman 348 Contrivance for Carrying Loads 349 Rescuing a Yak 350 Drinking out of a Bucket 353 Shrine inside Tent 354 Mud Guard-house 356 Tibetan Bellows 357 A Distaff 358 Purchasing Ponies 359 I was a Prisoner 360 Rope Riding-whip 361 Earring worn by High Officials 362 Dragged into the Settlement 363 A Spear 364 Tibetans overhauling our Baggage 365 The Pombo's Tent 368 Chanden Sing being Lashed 371 The Pombo 372 A Soldier 374 Soldier with Pigtail wound round his Head 375 An Officer 376 Purse; Flint and Steel; Snuff-box 377 Flint-and-steel Pouch 378 Leather Horse-whip 379 Charm-box 380 Pukus, or Wooden Cups 383 Soldier laying before me the Programme of Tortures 387 Handcuffs 388 Padlock and Key 389 "Sir, sir, I am dying" 391 Spiked Saddle 392 Nerba Firing at Me 394 The Ride on a Spiked Saddle 395 Coat I Wore at the Time of My Capture, Showing Effect of Spikes 396 A Display of Various Instruments of Torture 398 Lama Musicians 399 The Hot Iron Torture 399 The Taram 400 A Bannerman 403 The Executioner Brought the Sword Down to My Neck 404 Thus Elapsed Twenty-four terrible Hours 409 Belt, with Bullet and Powder Pouches, Dagger, Needle-case, and Flint and Steel 414 Martini-Henry Exploded 415 The Pombo's Contortions 419 The Finale of the Dance 420 Chanden Sing tied to a Post 425 A White Yak 426 Map Drawn with Blood during Captivity 427 One of Our Guard 430 Soldier Suffocating Goat 432 Strolling Musicians 433 Old Beggar 434 A Tibetan Shepherd 436 Interior of a Serai 437 Tea Churn (open) 438 A Bearer of Bad News 439 A Shoka Tibetan Half-caste 440 Sheep Loads for Borax and Grain 441 A Jumli Shed 442 We Attacked our Guard with Stones 443 Lapsang and the Jong Pen's Private Secretary 444 Jumli Trader and His Wife in Tibet 446 Cliff Habitations 447 Chokdens near Taklakot 448 Taklakot Fort 449 Pundit Gobaria 450 Dr. Wilson 451 Karak Sing Pal, the Political Peshkar 452 Mansing Showing Cuts under his Feet 453 A Glance at the Forbidden Land from the Lippu Pass 454 The Author, February and October 455 Chanden Sing's Legs, Showing Marks of Lashes and Wounds Healed 456 Mr. J. Larkin 457 Chanden Sing and Mansing enjoying their first Meal according to the Rules of their Castes 458 A Tibetan Temporary Shed 459 A Shaky Passage on the Nerpani Road 460 View of Askote, Showing Rajiwar's Palace 461 Snapshot of Shoka Villagers being Routed 461 Dr. Wilson, Myself, Mr. Larkin, the Political Peshkar, and Jagat Sing ready to ascend the Lippu Pass 462 Tinker in Nepal 463 On the Lippu Pass 464 Mr. Larkin's Party and Mine Halting near the Lippu Pass 465 Mr. Larkin looking out for the Jong Pen from the Lippu Pass 466 Bathing at 16,300 Feet 467 Dharchula. Deserted Habitations of Shokas 467 "I told you," exclaimed the old savage, "that whoever visits the home of the Raots will have misfortune" 468 A Picturesque Bit of Almora 469 Raots Listening to the Account of My Misfortunes 470 Map of South-Western Tibet, showing Author's Route and Return, Journey 470

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