Part III

and send them to the School, with report on Meetings V and VI.)

INDEX

Adulteration of linen, 87

Alpaca, 90

Altering sleeve patterns, 194

Angora wool, 39

Aniline dyes, 79

Arrow heads, 123

Back stitch, 112

Basting, 108

Bibliography, 103, 229

Bleaching, 78

Bobbin, 19

Boning waist, 192

Bow, the, 208

Burling, 83

Bust form, 168

Button holes, 141 large, 145 making, 144

Buttons, sewing on, 145

Carding, 59

Care of clothing, 219

Cassimere twills, 73, 75

Cat stitch, 116

Catch stitch, 116

Chain stitch, 116

Checks, 213

Children's clothes, 216, 217

Cleaning, 59, 221

Collars, 198 putting on, 199

Color in dress, 214

Colors, mordant, 79

Combing, 60

Conventional designs, 213

Costumes, references, 234

Cotton, 29 boles, 32 fibers, 34

Cotton goods, 85 home of, 30 Nankin, 34 sea island, 30 upland, 30

Cross stitch, 120

Cuffs, 196

Cutting table, 168

Darning, 155 on machine, 158 over net, 157

Decorations, placing, 208

Distaff, 12

Double cloth, 77

Draped waist, 192

Drawing tapes, 140

Dressmaking, 167

Dyeing, 78 home, 80

Dyes, aniline, 79

Dyestuffs, natural, 80

Embroidery, 204 as ornament, 204 eyelet, 122 shadow, 123 stitches, 114

Extension hem, 227

Eyelet embroidery, 122

Eyelets, 149

Fabrics, 85 list of, 96-102 names of, 94 primitive, 27 width of, 93

Facing, bias, 141 skirt, 179

Fastening the thread, 109

Fastenings, 141

Feather stitch, 118

Fibers, 29 cotton, 29 flax, 43 silk, 53 wool, 37

Finishes, 139

Finishing skirt, 179 seams, 196 waist, 192

Finishing, woolens, 83

Fitting, 173, 193 sleeves, 190 waists, 190

Flax, 43 fibers, 47 hackling, 44, 47

Flocks, 83

Folding garments, 220

French hem, 127 knots, 119 seam, 131

Fulling, 83

Fur, 40

Gathering, 111, 138

Gathers, whipped, 127

Gauging, 112

Gigging, 83

Gingham, 86

Grease spots, 122

Hand sewing, 107

Harmony in dress, 215

Harness, the, 70

Heddle, 17

Hemp, 50

Hem stitch, 118

Hems, 123 bias, 124 faced, 124 flannel, 127 French, 127 folding, 123

Hems, rolled, 126

Herringbone stitch, 116

Home dyeing, 80

Hook and eyes, 147

Hydroscopic moisture, 42

Jacquard loom, 70

Joining lace, 160

Jute, 50

Knit goods, 72

Lace, design of, 208

Laces, use of, 207

Laundering, 225

Lengthening garments, 226

Linen, 86 adulteration of, 87 characteristics of, 47

Lining, cutting, 188

Loading silk, 56

Looms, 17 Colonial, 19, 21, 22 development of, 19 diagram of, 23 fly shuttle, 26 four harness, hand, 21 Jacquard, 70 Japanese, 20 modern, 25, 69 Navajo, 18 Swedish hand, 24

Loop stitch, 116

Madder bleach, 78

Machine darning, 158 sewing, 162

Mending, 83, 225

Mitering embroidery, 158

Modern methods, 59

Mohair, 90

Mordant colors, 79

Muslin, 85

Nankin cotton, 34

Natural dyestuffs, 80

Olona, 53

Ornament, 203 embroidery as, 204 fitness of, 209 flowers as, 205 of textiles, 212

Ornamental stitches, 108, 114

Ornamentation, errors in, 204

Outline stitch, 114

Overcasting, 114, 142

Oversewing, 113

Packing clothing, 220

Passementerie, 206

Patching, 149

Patterns, 171 altering, 173 cloth, 174 lengthening, 173 pinning, 176 placing, 176 selection of, 171 testing, 174 use of, 172

Picking, 59

Piled fabrics, 91

Plackets, 135 faced, 137

Plaids, 213

Plain material, 212

Plush, 77

Pressing, 201 board, 168, 201 wet, 202

Primitive methods, 3

Printing, 81 block, 81 machine, 81 warps, 82

Ramie, 50

Raw silk, 56

Reed, 19

Reeling silk, 54

Repairing, 225

Retting flax, 45

Roving, 61

Running stitch, 110

Sateen weave, 79

Satin, 91 stitch, 121

Scouring agents, 41

Sea island cotton, 30

Seams, 128 beaded, 131 felled, 128 flannel, 135 French, 131 lapped, 133 slot, 131

Serges, 88

Seven-gored skirt, 172

Sewing, hand, 107 machine, 162

Sewing machines, 162 care of, 162 types of, 162 use of, 164

Shadow embroidery, 123

Sheep, 39

Shirt waists, cutting, 182 plan for making, 183

Shuttle, 19

Silk, 53 artificial, 58 boiling off, 56 fiber, 53 loading, 56, 90 production, 53 raw, 56 twilled, 91

Silk, wash, 91

Silk worm, 54

Silks, 90

Singeing, 78

Skirt, 172 band, 179

Skirt binding, 180 braid, 180 making, 177 placket, 178 plan of making, 173 stiffening, 178

Sleeve making, 183 patterns, 194

Sleeves, cutting, 194, 195 finish of, 197 pressing, 198 putting in, 197

Slip-stitching, 125

Slot seams, 131

Speck dye, 83

Spindle, 6 whorl, 6

Spinning, 3, 59 primitive, 3 wheel, 12 with spindle, 6

Stains, 221

Stitches, 107 ornamental, 108, 114 plain, 107

Stockinet undergarments, 216

Stripes, 213

Stroking gathers, 111

Table linen, 87

Teazels, 83

Textile arts, origin of, 3

Textiles, 85, 212 design of, 212 list of, 96, 102 ornament of, 212 weaves, 72

Texture, 214

Trimming, 210

Tweeds, 88 Harris, 89

Twills, 74 Cassimere, 73, 75 uneven, 75

Tucked waist, 185

Tucking, 108

Tucks, 128

Unity in dress, 211

Upland cotton, 30

Velvet, 92 weave of, 77

Velveteen, 92

Waists, 185 lined, 186 plan for making, 187 repairing, 227 tucked, 185

Wash silk, 91

Warping, 69

Weave, 72 diagrams, 73 plain, 73 basket, 76 double cloth, 77 rib, 76 sateen, 76 twill, 74 velvet, 77

Weaving, 14, 69

Wet Pressing, 202

Wheel spinning, 12

Whipping stitch, 113

Whorl, spindle, 6

Widths of fabrics, 93

Wool, 37 characteristics of, 37 fiber, 36 quality of, 38 scouring, 40 sorting, 40 value for clothing, 37

Woolens, 88

Worsteds, 88

Yokes, 20

End of Project Gutenberg's Textiles and Clothing, by Kate Heintz Watson