Chapter 1 of 8 · 3969 words · ~20 min read

Part 1

# The Stag Cook Book: Written for Men by Men ### By Unknown

---

_The Stag Cook Book_

_C. MAC SHERIDAN_

THE STAG COOK BOOK

_WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN_

COLLECTED AND EDITED

_by_

C. MAC SHERIDAN

_With an Introduction by_ ROBERT H. DAVIS

[Illustration]

NEW YORK GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY

THE STAG COOK BOOK, II

PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

_Dedicated To_—

THAT GREAT HOST OF BACHELORS AND BENEDICTS ALIKE

who have at one time or another tried to “cook something”; and who, in the attempt, have weakened under a fire of feminine raillery and sarcasm, only to spoil what, under more favorable circumstances, would have proved a chef-d’œuvre.

_“They may live without houses and live without books,” So the saying has gone through the ages, “But a civilized man cannot live without cooks—” It’s a libel, as proved by these pages! For when left by himself in a small kitchenette, With a saucepan, a spoon and a kettle, A man can make things that you’ll never forget— That will put any cook on her mettle._

_Where camp fires glow through the still of the night, Where grills are electric and shiny, Where kitchens are huge, done in tiling of white, Where stoves are exceedingly tiny, Where people are hungry—no matter the place— A man can produce in a minute A dish to bring smiles to each skeptical face, With art—and real food value—in it!_

_At range and at oven, at (whisper it!) still, A man is undoubtedly master; His cooking is done with an air and a skill, He’s sure as a woman—and faster! He may break the dishes and clutter the floor, And if he is praised—he deserves it— He may flaunt his prowess until he’s a bore.... But, Boy, what he serves—when he serves it!_

INTRODUCTION

By ROBERT H. DAVIS

Cooking is a gift, not an art. Eating is an art, not a gift. In combination a grace is developed. No great culinary triumph was ever perfected by accident.

Charles Lamb’s essay on roast pig was responsible for a tidal wave of burnt pork that swept over England in the nineteenth century. Mr. Lamb led a hungry empire to the belief that only through an act of incendiarism could a suckling porker be converted into a delicacy; whereas, as a matter of fact, the perfection of roast pork, golden-brown and unseared by fire, were possible only in the oven.

Lucullus, the good Roman gourmet, had his meals cooked in a mint. He required that his masterpieces be served on gold and silver and crystal, and spread on a table of lapis lazuli. The sauces compiled for him were worth more than the food upon which they were poured. He was the high priest of extravagance and luxury. A single meal stood him a fortune. He had more regard for the cost than for the cooking. It is said that his death was hastened by dyspepsia.

* * * * *

In the early seventies a French nobleman, living in the neighborhood of Barbizon, was found seated at the table with his face in a plate of soup. Because of the fact that a butcher knife had been inserted via the back between his fourth and fifth rib on the left side, he was quite dead. Clues led nowhere. It became one of the mysteries.

Long afterward an old man tottered into the office of the Prefect and announced that he wished to make a confession.

“Proceed,” said the official.

“’Twas I,” responded the ancient, “who delivered the death stroke to the Duke de la —— thirty-five years ago.”

“What inspired you to make this confession?”

“Pride.”

“I do not comprehend. The details, if you please.”

“By profession I was a chef,” said the self-accused. “The Duke, at a fabulous price, enticed me into his service. His first request was that I make for him a perfect consomme. _Voilà!_ For three days I prepared this perfection. With my own hand I placed before him the soup tureen. With my own hand I ladled it out. He inhaled its divine essence; and then, Your Honor, _he reached for the salt_. _Mon Dieu!_ I destroy him!”

The Prefect embraced the artist and took him out to lunch. Thus art was vindicated and the incident closed. In the chemistry of cooking, “enough is too much.”

* * * * *

The immortals who have contributed recipes to this volume were born with a silver spoon not in their mouths, but in their hands. The cap and apron, not the cap and bells, is the garb in which they perform. Secrets handed down through generations are thrown with a wanton hand on the pages that comprise this volume. Sauces from the south, chowders from New England, barbecued masterpieces from the west, grilled classics from field and stream, ragouts, stews, desserts, dressings are hung within reach of all, like garlic clusters from the rafters of opportunity. Reach up and help yourself.

Be not disturbed by occasional jocund phrases in this symposium. Behind them is probably concealed a savory or a flavor. A long paragraph may conclude with full particulars concerning the architecture of a gastronomic dream. Turn the pages slowly lest you be overwhelmed by the richness of the menu.

* * * * *

The late King Edward, upon bidding the later Carlos of Portugal God-speed back to his native shores, inquired: “By what were you most impressed during your visit to the British Isles?”

“Roast beef,” said Carlos, expanding in ecstasy.

“And what else?” inquired Edward.

“Well,” said Carlos, “the boiled beef wasn’t so damned bad.”

* * * * *

It is one thing to cook food, and another to consume it. This inspired tome is the product of cooks who are not afraid to take their own medicine. The names of many of the dishes catalogued herein lies on the tongues of the mob, but the delicacies themselves do not. This book brings within the reach of all opportunities that up to now have been denied them. Given a first class stove, a few simple ingredients and a copy of this book, hunger can be abolished wherever English is read.

* * * * *

Rossini, the musician, also a chef, after writing the score of _The Barber of Seville_, was informed by the director that a prelude was required immediately. Rossini repaired to his kitchen, cooked himself a perfect dinner, consumed it alone, and went to bed where in a reclining position with score sheets all about him, he wrote a brilliant introduction to his brilliant opera. Suddenly a gust of wind entered unbidden at the window and scattered the precious sheets about the room. Several disappeared through the lattice. Rossini, heavy with the consequences of his culinary genius, re-wrote a fresher and better prelude, tucked it under his corpulent person and rolled over for a final nap, after which he hastened to the opera house with his masterpiece. His best work was done on a full stomach.

* * * * *

Brillat-Savarin, author of “Gastronomy as a Fine Art,” rather whimsically names “Gasteria” the tenth and fairest of the Muses. The writers of this book name her as the first.

R. H. D.

CONTENTS

_PART ONE: CONTRIBUTORS_

PAGE I _Meredith Nicholson_ 31 WABASH VALLEY STEAK

II _Rex Beach_ 34 ONION CLAM CHOWDER

III _Hudson Maxim_ 35 SPAGHETTI

IV _Warren G. Harding_ 36 WAFFLES

V _Ellis Parker Butler_ 31 BOUILLABAISSE JOE TILDEN

VI _Jules J. Jusserand_ 38 RADISH SALAD

VII _Bruce Barton_ 39 RICE PUDDING

VIII _Richard Bennett_ 40 LIEDERKRANZ Á LA HOOSIER

IX _Walt Louderback_ 41 CORN CHOWDER

X _Captain Robert A. Bartlett, U.S.A._ 42 COD FISH

XI _George F. Worts_ 43 SWEET POTATO PONE

XII _Gelett Burgess_ 45 PANDOWDY

XIII _William Allen White_ 46 VEGETABLE SALAD

XIV _Irvin S. Cobb_ 48 HOG JOWL AND TURNIP GREENS (PADUCAH STYLE)

XV _Richard Walton Tully_ 49 HAWAIIAN CROQUETTES Á LA “THE BIRD OF PARADISE”

XVI _William Johnston_ 51 OYSTERS PECHEUR

XVII _Dr. Charles M. Sheldon_ 52 LIKES BREAD AND MILK

XVIII _James Montgomery Flagg_ 53 “JAMES MONTGOMERY SUDS”

XIX _Roy L. McCardell_ 54 “EGGS MUSHROOMETTE”

XX _Judge Ben B. Lindsey_ 56 BRAN MUFFINS

XXI _Otis Skinner_ 57 ARTICHOKES, MISTER ANTONIO

XXII _Dan Beard_ 58 A BURGOO

XXIII _De Wolf Hopper_ 60 RASPBERRY SHORTCAKE

XXIV _Chick Evans_ 61 TOMATO SOUP

XXV _Joshua A. Hatfield_ 63 EGGPLANT SAUTÉ Á L’ALEXANDER POTATO STICKS ALEXANDER COLD SAUCE ALEXANDER SUPRÊME OF CHICKEN Á L’ALEXANDER GARNITURE FONDU AU FROMAGE Á L’ALEXANDER POACHED EGGS EN CROUSTADE Á L’ALEXANDER ROMAINE SALAD Á L’ALEXANDER ROGNONS DE VEAU Á L’ALEXANDER STRAWBERRY TARTLETS ALEXANDER BAKED OYSTERS ALEXANDER ÉMINCE OF CHICKEN Á L’ALEXANDER

XXVI _Stewart Edward White_ 69 MULLIGAN

XXVII _Oliver Herford_ 70 FRIED ELDERBERRY BLOSSOMS

XXVIII _Reed Smoot_ 71 PEACH COBBLER

XXIX _Ray Long_ 72 SHAD ROE DESSERT

XXX _Kenneth C. Beaton_ 73 LOBSTER

XXXI _John Harvey Kellogg, M. D._ 75 MACARONI WITH CHEESE SAVORY POTATOES

XXXII _Clare Briggs_ 77 WAFFLES

XXXIII _Edward W. Bok_ 78 ASPARAGUS

XXXIV _Charles Hanson Towne_ 80 CORN PUDDING

XXXV _Jerome D. Kern_ 81 TERRAPIN

XXXVI _Daniel Willard_ 82 COTTAGE PUDDING STRAWBERRY SAUCE

XXXVII _Houdini_ 83 SCALLOPED MUSHROOMS AND DEVILED EGGS THE MUSHROOM DISH THE EGGS

XXXVIII _Charles P. Steinmetz_ 84 MEAT LOAF

XXXIX _Charlie Chaplin_ 86 STEAK AND KIDNEY PIE

XL _Dr. Frank Crane_ 87 ROUND STEAK

XLI _Robert H. Davis_ 89 CREAM SAUCE Á LA WORCESTERSHIRE

XLII _John A. Dix_ 90 FRIED TROUT

XLIII _Guy Bates Post_ 91 LAMB CURRY Á LA “OMAR, THE TENTMAKER”

XLIV _Dr. Don Rafael H. Elizalde_ 93 SANCOCHO YAPINGACHO

XLV _Bide Dudley_ 95 TOMATO SOP

XLVI _William Hale Thompson_ 96 ROAST BEEF

XLVII _Booth Tarkington_ 97 CORN FLAKES

XLVIII _T. A. Dorgan_ 98 CHILÏ CON CARNE

XLIX _William de Leftwich Dodge_ 99 RAGOUT DE MOUTON

L _Montague Glass_ 100 BOUILLABAISSE

LI _John Philip Sousa_ 103 PELOTAS Á LA PORTUGUESE SPAGHETTI

LII _Will Hays_ 105 CHICKEN PILAU

LIII _Frank Ward O’Malley_ 106 RUM-TUM-TIDDY

LIV _Charles Evans Hughes_ 108 CORN BREAD

LV _Walter Prichard Eaton_ 109 MINCE PIE THE FILLING

LVI _W. T. Benda_ 113 POLISH SPECIALTIES BARSHCK WITH USHKA USHKA BURACHKI

LVII _Captain Edward A. Salisbury_ 118 SAUCE FOR SPAGHETTI EGGS Á LA SALISBURY FISH Á LA COMMODORE TO COOK TROUT VENISON STEAK GOOSE A MAYONNAISE AND A SALAD DRESSING DUCKS AND LARGE FOWL TEAL, PARTRIDGE AND SMALL FOWL BEANS ITALIAN RICE STEAK SAUCE

LVIII _Thomas H. Ince_ 126 CHICKEN HALIBUT ONION SOUP AU GRATIN RICE Á LA MANHATTAN

LIX _George Ade_ 128 “SCOLLOPED” OYSTERS

LX _Lyman Abbott_ 130 DEEP APPLE PIE

LXI _Terry Ramsaye_ 131 LETTUCE (Á LA RED CREEK)

LXII _R. L. (Rube) Goldberg_ 133 HASH

LXIII _Channing Pollock_ 134 CORN BREAD

LXIV _Hussein Kahn Alai_ 135 CHIRIN POLOW

LXV _William J. Bryan_ 138 FRENCH-FRIED ONIONS

LXVI _Will Irwin_ 139 HAM AND EGGS

LXVII _Douglas Fairbanks_ 140 BREAD TART

LXVIII _Julian Street_ 141 SOLE Á LA MARGUERY AND DUCK WITH ORANGES SOLE Á LA MARGUERY DUCK BIGARADE

LXIX _S. S. McClure_ 143 OMELETTE—AND PIE

LXX _Basil King_ 145 LOBSTER Á LA KING

LXXI _John A. Moroso_ 146 SPAGHETTI-FOR-THE-GANG

LXXII _F. X. Leyendecker_ 148 VEAU SAUTÉ MARENGO VOL AU VENT FINANCIÉRE

LXXIII _Eddie Cantor_ 150 BOILED BEEF AND HORSERADISH SAUCE

LXXIV _Frazier Hunt_ 151 STUFFED CELERY

LXXV _Wm. Slavins McNutt_ 152 ORANGE COMPOTE

LXXVI _Stephen Vincent Benet_ 154 ZITELLI’S MACARONI STEW

LXXVII _James R. Quirk_ 155 TOMATO WIGGLE

LXXVIII _Charles W. Eliot_ 156 A FAVORITE MENU

LXXIX _H. S. Cumming_ 158 VIRGINIA EGG BREAD

LXXX _Joseph Santley_ 159 COCOA CREAM CAKE

LXXXI _A. Hamilton Gibbs_ 160 SQUAB EN CASSEROLE

LXXXII _Richard Barthelmess_ 161 SPICED GRAPES

LXXXIII _Don Juan R. y Gayangos_ 162 EGG PLANT AU GRATIN

LXXXIV _Samuel G. Blythe_ 163 TRIPE Á LA MODE DE CAEN Á LA ROY CARRUTHERS

LXXXV _Charles H. Taylor_ 165 CLAM CHOWDER

LXXXVI _Cyrus H. K. Curtis_ 167 BAKED BEANS

LXXXVII _Frederic Arnold Kummer_ 169 SPAGHETTI DIABOLIQUE

LXXXVIII _Albert D. Lasker_ 170 CHICKEN PAPRIKA

LXXXIX _Henry Van Dyke_ 171 FISH CHOWDER

XC _Macklyn Arbuckle_ 172 SOUTHERN GUMBO Á LA “COUNTY CHAIRMAN”

XCI _John Taintor Foote_ 174 MORELS SAUTÉ

XCII _Maurice Francis Egan_ 176 A DIPLOMATIST’S RECEIPT FOR WELSH RABBIT

XCIII _Livingston Farrand_ 178 SAUSAGE AND GRIDDLE CAKES

XCIV _F. Ziegfeld, Jr._ 179 LITTLE CHICKEN TARTS

XCV _Harold Lloyd_ 181 LEMON LAYER CAKE

XCVI _Luther Burbank_ 183 TURKEY Á LA BURBANK

XCVII _Raymond McKee_ 185 TO COOK RABBITS

XCVIII _Will Deming_ 187 VIRGINIA HAM LEMON PIE A DRESSING

XCIX _Charles W. Chessar_ 189 TIPS ON STEAKS

C _Arthur T. Vance_ 191 SALADE Á LA TURC PANDORA FRENCH DRESSING WELSH RABBIT Á LA MORGAN ROBERTSON

CI _Baron de Cartier_ 195 WATERZOIE DE VOLAILLE

CII _Dean Cornwell_ 197 SPAGHETTI-MY-STYLE

PART TWO: RECIPES

BREADS—MUFFINS—WAFFLES—ETC. BRAN MUFFINS 56 BREAD AND MILK 52 CORN BREAD 108, 134 CORNFLAKES 97 GRIDDLE CAKES 178 SWEET POTATO PONE 43 VIRGINIA EGG BREAD 158 WAFFLES 36, 77

EGG DISHES DEVILED EGGS 83 EGGS Á LA SALISBURY 119 EGGS “MUSHROOMETTE” 54 EGGS USED WITH ASPARAGUS 79 HAM AND EGGS 139 OMELETTE 143 POACHED EGGS EN CROUSTADE A L’ALEXANDER 65

SOUPS—MULLIGANS—BOUILLABAISSE BARSHCK 113 BARSHCK WITH USHKA 113 BEAN SOUP 124 BURGOO, A 58 BOUILLABAISSE JOE TILDEN 37 BOUILLABAISSE 100 CORN CHOWDER 41 CLAM CHOWDER 165 FISH CHOWDER 171 MULLIGAN 69 ONION CLAM CHOWDER 34 ONION SOUP AU GRATIN 126 SANCOCHO 93 TOMATO SOUP 61 WATERZOIE DE VOLAILLE 195

FISH—OYSTERS—LOBSTER—ROE—ETC. BAKED OYSTERS ALEXANDER 67 CHICKEN HALIBUT 126 COD FISH 42 COLD SAUCE ALEXANDER (FOR COLD SALMON) 64 FISH Á LA COMMODORE 119 FRIED TROUT 90 HAWAIIAN CROQUETTES Á LA BIRD OF PARADISE 49 LOBSTER Á LA KING 145 LOBSTER (K C B) 73 OYSTERS PECHEUR 51 “SCOLLOPED” OYSTERS 128 SHAD ROE 72 SOLE Á LA MARGUERY 141 STEAMED CLAMS 97 TROUT, TO COOK 120

FOWL (DOMESTIC AND WILD) CHICKEN PAPRIKA 170 CHICKEN PILAU 105 CHIRIN POLOW (PERSIAN) 135 DUCK BIGARADE 142 DUCKS AND LARGE FOWL 122 ÉMINCE OF CHICKEN Á L’ALEXANDER 68 GOOSE, THE BEST WAY TO COOK 121 LITTLE CHICKEN TARTS 179 SOUTHERN GUMBO Á LA “COUNTY CHAIRMAN” 172 SQUAB EN CASSEROLE 160 SUPRÊME OF CHICKEN Á L’ALEXANDER 64 SUPRÊME OF CHICKEN Á L’ALEXANDER GARNITURE 65 TEAL, PARTRIDGE AND SMALL FOWL 123 TURKEY Á LA BURBANK 183

MEATS—MEAT DISHES AND SAUCES

CHILI CON CARNE 98 CREAM SAUCE Á LA WORCESTERSHIRE 89 HASH—A NEW METHOD 133 HAM AND EGGS 139 HOG JOWL AND TURNIP GREENS 48 HORSERADISH SAUCE 150 LAMB CURRY Á LA “OMAR THE TENT MAKER” 91 MEAT LOAF 84 PELOTAS Á LA PORTUGUESE 103 RABBIT, TO COOK 185 RAGOUT DE MOUTON 99 ROAST BEEF, TIPS ON COOKING 96 ROGNONS DE VEAU Á L’ALEXANDER 66 ROUND STEAK—REALLY DELICIOUS 87 SANCOCHO (FROM ECUADOR) 93 SPICED GRAPES 161 STEAK AND KIDNEY PIE 86 STEAK SAUCE 125 STEAK, TIPS ON 189 TERRAPIN 81 TRIPE Á LA MODE DE CAEN 163 USHKA (POLISH) 114 VEAU SAUTÉ MARENGO 148 VOL AU VENT FINANCIÈRE 149 VENISON STEAK 120 VIRGINIA HAM 31 WABASH VALLEY STEAK 187

VEGETABLES AND THE LIKE

ARTICHOKES MISTER ANTONIO 57 ASPARAGUS 78 BEANS (VARIOUS STYLES) 123, 167 BURACHKI (POLISH) 117 EGGPLANT AU GRATIN 162 EGGPLANT SAUTÉ Á L’ALEXANDER 63 FRENCH FRIED ONIONS 138 ITALIAN RICE 124 MORELS SAUTÉ 174 POTATO STICKS ALEXANDER 63 RICE Á LA MANHATTAN 127 SAVORY POTATOES 75 “SCOLLOPED” MUSHROOMS 83 TOMATO SOP 95 TURNIP GREENS 48 YAPINGACHO (FROM ECUADOR) 94

SPAGHETTI—MACARONI—ETC. MACARONI STEW, ZITELLI’S 154 MACARONI WITH CHEESE 75 SPAGHETTI 35 SPAGHETTI DIABOLIQUE 169 SPAGHETTI FOR-THE-GANG 146 SPAGHETTI-MY-STYLE 197 SPAGHETTI SAUCES 118, 146, 154 SPAGHETTI WITH PELOTAS 103

SALADS AND SALAD DRESSINGS DRESSING (FOR STUFFED TOMATOES, COLD MEAT, POTATO SALAD) 188 LETTUCE Á LA RED CREEK 131 A MAYONNAISE AND A SALAD DRESSING 122 PANDORA FRENCH DRESSING 192 RADISH SALAD 38 ROMAINE SALAD Á L’ALEXANDER 66 SALADE Á LA TURC 191 VEGETABLE SALAD 46

DESSERTS—CAKES—PIES—PUDDINGS

BREAD TARTS 140 COCOA CREAM CAKE 159 CORN PUDDING 80 COTTAGE PUDDING WITH STRAWBERRY SAUCE 82 DEEP APPLE PIE 130 DESSERT, A 72 FRIED ELDERBERRY BLOSSOMS 70 INDIAN PUDDING 156 JAMES MONTGOMERY SUDS 53 LEMON LAYER CAKE 181 LEMON PIE 187 MINCE-PIE 109 ORANGE COMPOTE 152 PEACH COBBLER 71 PANDOWDY 45 PIE 143 PIE CRUST 111, 144 RASPBERRY SHORTCAKE 60 RICE PUDDING 39 STRAWBERRY TARTLETS ALEXANDER 67

CHEESE AND CHEESE DISHES CELERY STUFFED WITH CHEESE 151 FONDU AU FROMAGE Á L’ALEXANDER 65 LIEDERKRANZ Á LA HOOSIER 40 RUM-TUM-TIDDY 106 TOMATO WIGGLE 155 WELSH RABBIT (A DIPLOMATIST’S RECIPE) 176 WELSH RABBIT Á LA MORGAN ROBERTSON 193

THE STAG COOK BOOK

“This dish of meat is too good for any but anglers, or very honest men.” IZAAK WALTON.

_Meredith Nicholson_

WABASH VALLEY STEAK

No man can be a hero in his own kitchen. No man with the slightest regard for domestic peace will ever permit his wife to see him cook without having outsiders present. The psychology of this is obvious. Impatient though a woman may be of her husband’s attempts to show that he is a real sport and skilled in all the arts of social entertaining, before guests she is likely to manifest a modest degree of pride in his performances. Or even if slightly contemptuous she is moved to assume a chaffing attitude that adds to the general good feeling. I beg not to be confused with the type of bachelor club man who is a perfect wizard with the chafing dish. I have always viewed those birds with suspicion. Their tricks are few and easy of accomplishment—stunts with mushrooms, or chicken à la king done nonchalantly in a dinner coat. I sing my fiercest hymn of hate of those persons.

My own method is to assume full charge of an orderly kitchen, removing coat and waistcoat, donning an apron and attacking the job without apology or simper or the silly pretense that I’m not sure of the result. Not sure! Except in the case of colored women cooks, who trust to inspiration and achieve miracles without, seemingly, knowing how they do ’em—except, I say, in such instances, cookery is an exact science. If you follow a good rule and know how to regulate the range and have a true eye and acute nose, failure is obliterated from the lexicon.

And now for my scenario, which I stole from a lady, who in turn stole it, I dare say, from some cook book. I might pretend that I invented it, but I didn’t. All I claim is that it offers an Olympian feast—particularly if you can accompany it with hot biscuits, which I admit are beyond my powers.

_The Recipe_

Take a round steak cut two inches thick; and beat a cup of flour into it. Heat a large skillet till it is piping hot with lard covering the bottom about one inch. Put in the steak, cover immediately, and allow it to cook about five minutes, turning once.

Then cover it with a sauce composed in this wise:

Four large tomatoes Four onions Four green mango peppers Four ripe pimentoes

Put through a grinder or better still chop thoroughly with a chopper in a wooden bowl. Don’t skimp on this labor; the chopping must be done conscientiously. Season with salt and pour over the steak; cook slowly for two hours. When done turn into a large platter and serve piping hot.

_Rex Beach_

ONION CLAM CHOWDER

To each 10 oz. can of Pioneer Brand Minced Clams use 1 pound of sliced Spanish or white onion.

For a good sized chowder take six large onions (white), and cut in lengths one inch long. Pour the juice from the clams into saucepan, add onions and a little water and boil thoroughly until onions are well cooked and soft. Then add clams which have been taken out of the can and put into a dish, and stew five minutes before onions are done. Next place in a stew pan about a pint of cream or half cream and half milk and let come to a boil. After the clams have been in with the onions for about three minutes pour on the hot milk and season to taste with salt and pepper. If serving in a soup plate, a little chopped parsley adds to the attractiveness of the dish. Then EAT it.

(You can substitute for fresh milk or cream—Carnation Canned Milk diluted—⅔ milk to ⅓ water. The soup should be thick and not too watery. This can be regulated by amount of milk added.)

III

_Hudson Maxim_

SPAGHETTI

Take one package of vermicelli or spaghetti, and put it into a saucepan, crushing it in the hand, then put in hot water, and salt a little more than will suit the taste, and boil for an hour.

While the vermicelli or spaghetti is cooking, take a quart of milk and heat three-quarters—or 24 ounces—of it until it boils. Then stir into the eight ounces of cold milk a level cupful of flour, or two tablespoonfuls of flour, pretty well heaped, and then stir the thickened milk into the boiling milk and cook slowly for ten minutes.

Then add three-quarters of a pound of good, ripe, old American cheese, and about half a pound of butter. Then drain the water off the vermicelli or spaghetti and put in from one and one half pints to a quart of canned tomatoes. Heat the vermicelli or spaghetti to the boiling point; and while the mixture of cheese, butter, milk and flour is still hot, stir the two together, then keep hot and serve hot. Do not boil any more, because further boiling would tend to cause the tomatoes to coagulate the milk in the mixture. I prefer to use a mixture of spaghetti and vermicelli instead of all spaghetti or all vermicelli.

_Warren G. Harding_

WAFFLES

2 eggs 2 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon salt 1 pint milk flour to make thin batter 2 large teaspoons of baking powder

Beat yolks of eggs, add sugar and salt, melt butter, add milk and flour; last just before ready to bake add beaten whites of eggs and baking powder.

Bake on hot waffle iron.

EDITOR’S NOTE:—There is a great deal of argument about the proper dressing for waffles. Various gravies are used by one school of waffle eaters; while honey, maple syrup, and various specially flavored sugar powders are preferred by another.

President Harding is a staunch upholder of the gravy school and likes his in the form of creamed chipped beef.

_Ellis Parker Butler_

BOUILLABAISSE JOE TILDEN

In a soup kettle put four tablespoonsful of genuine olive oil. When hot enough fry in it two large onions, sliced, and two cloves of garlic chopped. Cut two pounds of any sort of firm white-textured fish into small pieces and put in the kettle, just covering the mixture with warm water.

Now have the Eighteenth Amendment repealed and add to the mixture one cup of White Wine, the juice of half a lemon, two large tomatoes (peeled and cut up), pepper, salt and one or two bay leaves.

Cook this briskly for twelve minutes, by which time the liquor should be one third evaporated. Now add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Joe Tilden added a pinch of saffron, but I don’t care for it. Cook two minutes longer and serve ladled on slices of French bread.

EDITOR’S NOTE:—Moquin’s have made a luncheon specialty of Bouillabaisse for many years. They add lobster and eel. Here is a wonderful dish to experiment with—great fun and delicious results if you try it once or twice. It’s a habit-forming dish, so beware!

_Jules J. Jusserand_

(Ambassador to the United States from France)

RADISH SALAD

The French ambassador presents his compliments and begs to state that he does not believe that any dish, or food, is more palatable than a salad of radishes, the radishes to be cut in very thin slices and to be seasoned with the usual salad dressing.