Part 1
# Valladolid, Oviedo, Segovia, Zamora, Avila & Zaragoza: An Historical & Descriptive Account ### By Calvert, Albert Frederick
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THE SPANISH SERIES
VALLADOLID, OVIEDO, SEGOVIA ZAMORA, AVILA, AND ZARAGOZA
THE SPANISH SERIES
_EDITED BY ALBERT F. CALVERT_
GOYA TOLEDO SEVILLE MURILLO CORDOVA VELAZQUEZ CERVANTES THE PRADO THE ESCORIAL SPANISH ARMS AND ARMOUR GRANADA AND THE ALHAMBRA LEON, BURGOS, AND SALAMANCA VALLADOLID, OVIEDO, SEGOVIA, ZAMORA, AVILA, AND ZARAGOZA
_In preparation._
MADRID GALICIA EL GRECO CITIES OF ANDALUCIA MURCIA AND VALENCIA ROYAL PALACES OF SPAIN TAPESTRIES OF THE ROYAL PALACE CATALONIA AND BALEARIC ISLANDS SANTANDER, BISCAYA, AND NAVARRE
VALLADOLID, OVIEDO SEGOVIA, ZAMORA AVILA, & ZARAGOZA
AN HISTORICAL & DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT, BY ALBERT F. CALVERT, WITH 413 ILLUSTRATIONS
LONDON: JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD
NEW YORK: JOHN LANE COMPANY MCMVIII
Edinburgh: T. and A. CONSTABLE, Printers to His Majesty
PREFACE
The six cities of Spain which form the subject of the following pages are little known to English travellers. Yet no one who would understand the country can afford to pass them by. Not only are they compact of artistic and architectural treasures, but within their walls much of the history of the Spanish nation has been made. Oviedo--that little city between the mountains and the sea, so far off the beaten track--was the cradle of the monarchy, the residence and burial-place of its patriot kings. For all men of Spanish blood it is holy ground. In Zamora we have the typical city of the heroic age of Spain, the era of half-fabulous heroes, whose personalities are made known to us only by folklore and ballads.
Segovia and Avila are towns of the Reconquest, wardens, one might say, against the redoubtable Moor. To the fancy their grass-grown streets still re-echo with the tramp of armed men, with the ring of spears and the word of command. The shadowy warriors of Oviedo and Zamora here give place to the tall knight who stalks across the page of history, ready to do battle with pagan Moor or Christian tyrant. But Avila enshrines the holier memory of the sainted Theresa, greatest of Spanish women, revered not least in the lands for whose conversion to her faith she unceasingly prayed. And so we pass on, each town illustrating a different stage of a great nation’s development.
In Valladolid, which preceded and subsequently nearly supplanted Madrid as the capital of Spain, we are again on holy ground; for Cervantes dwelt here, and here died the immortal Columbus. Zaragoza, the chief city of a kingdom that influenced the destinies of powerful European States when Castile was hardly known to the outside world, has ever been a noble and important capital, boasting a glory which has been brightest perhaps in its later days. To the citizens of Zaragoza was reserved the honour of rejecting the Inquisition, to which other towns reluctantly submitted, and just one hundred years ago she proved to an astonished Europe that within her crumbling walls dwelt the old brood of Numantia--that she was prolific still of heroes and heroines.
The prowess of Augustina would not indeed have come as a surprise to those who knew her country well; nor could the most thoughtless of travellers, after a survey of the memorials of genius and vitality which these six cities contain, ever believe the greatness of the people to be exhausted. Already Valladolid and Zaragoza throb with life and commerce. But a few more years and the other cities, already stirring, will pulsate with the spirit of young Spain, and the Phœnix, born a thousand years ago at Oviedo, will renew its youth for the tenth time.
To Señor J. Lacoste my thanks are due for his courtesy in permitting me to reproduce many of the photographs which find a place in this book, and I have also to acknowledge the assistance rendered me by Mr. E. B. d’Auvergne in the preparation of the text.
A. F. C.
CONTENTS
CHAP. PAGE
I. VALLADOLID 1
II. OVIEDO 38
III. SEGOVIA 59
IV. ZAMORA 86
V. AVILA 103
VI. ZARAGOZA 135
ILLUSTRATIONS
VALLADOLID
SUBJECT PLATE
General View of Valladolid, 1
General View of Valladolid, 2
The Bridge of Piedra, 3
La Acera de San Francisco, 4
The Town Hall, 5
The Old Parish Church, 6
House in which Christopher Columbus died, 7
House where King Philip II. was born, 8
The Royal Palace of Philip III., 9
Church of San Juan de Letran, 10
College of the Escoceses, 11
College of the Ingleses, 12
Interior view of the Library, 13
Interior of the Museum, 14
Façade of the Museum, 15
Museum: Back of a Choir Stall, by Berruguete, 16
Museum: Detail of the Choir Stalls of San Benito, 17
Museum: Several Fragments of Choir Stalls, by Berruguete, 18
Museum: Head of St. Paul, 19
Museum: Centre part of a Wooden Altar-piece, 20
Museum: Fragments of Choir Stalls, by Berruguete, 21
Museum: Fragments of Choir Stalls, by Berruguete, 22
Museum: Altar-piece carved in wood, 23
Museum: The Assumption of the Virgin, by Rubens, 24
Museum: St. Anthony of Padua and the Child Jesus, by Rubens, 25
Museum: The Annunciation, by José Martinez, 26
Museum: The Holy Family, by Raphael, 27
Museum: St. Francis and a Lay Brother, by Rubens, 28
St. Joachim and the Virgin as a Child, by Murillo, 29
Provincial Museum: San Bruno, 30
Centre of the Façade of San Gregorio, 31
Detail of the Façade of San Gregorio, 32
Detail of the Façade of San Gregorio, 33
Left Angle in the Court of San Gregorio, 34
Gallery in the Court of San Gregorio, 35
Detail in the Court of San Gregorio, 36
Interior Gate of San Gregorio, 37
Façade of San Pablo, 38
Lower Part of the Façade of San Pablo, 39
Detail of the Portal of San Pablo, 40
Lower Central Part of the Façade of San Pablo, 41
Portal of San Pablo, 42
Detail of the Porch of San Pablo, 43
Detail of the Porch of San Pablo, 44
OVIEDO
General View, 45
Tower of the Cathedral 46
Principal Entrance to the Cathedral, 47
Principal Gate of the Cathedral, 48
Cathedral: View of the Interior, 49
Cathedral: The Retablo, 50
La Camara Santa, 51
Coffin in the Cathedral, 52
Old Tower of the Cathedral, 53
Cathedral: Oaken Ark, 54
Cathedral: Section, Plan, and Details of the Camara Santa, 55
Cathedral: Cross of the Angels, 56
Crosses and Caskets of the Asturias, 57
Cathedral: Cross of Victory, 58
A Capital, 59
Santa Maria de Naranco, 60
Santa Maria de Naranco, 61
Church of San Miguel de Lineo, 62
Church of San Juan de Priorio, 63
Church of San Juan de Priorio, 64
Details of the Churches of St. Clara, St. John, and Our Lady de la Vega, 65
Details of Santa Maria de Valdedios, 66
Details of Santa Maria de Valdedios, 67
Details of San Juan de Amandi, 68
Details of San Juan de Amandi, 69
Details of the Church of Villaviciosa, 70
Details of the Church of Villaviciosa, 71
Plan and Section of San Salvador de Valdedios, 72
Details of San Salvador de Valdedios, 73
Details of the Churches of Priesca and Fuentes, 74
Details of Santa Maria de Villamayor, 75
Details of Santa Maria de Villamayor, 76
Details of San Adrian de Tunon, 77
Details of the Hermitage of Santa Cristina, 78
Details of the Collegiate Church of Covadonga, 79
Details of the Church of Ujo, 80
Details of the Church of Ujo, 81
SEGOVIA
General View from the Nievas, 82
General View, 83
The Roman Aqueduct, 84
The Alcazar and Cathedral from the Fuencisla, 85
General View from the Nievas, 86
Old Houses in the Plaza Mayor, 87
View of the Walls, 88
Aqueduct over the River Castilla, 89
The Cathedral, 90
View of the Cathedral, 91
View of the Cathedral, 92
Casa de los Picos, 93
Church of Santa Cruz, 94
Porch of the Church of Santa Cruz, 95
Church of Santa Cruz, 96
View of the Mint and the Parral, 97
Façade of the Parral, 98
Cloisters of the Parral, 99
General View of Turégano, 100
Turégano Castle, 101
General View of Coca Castle, 102
Another View of Coca Castle, 103
St. Andrew’s Gate, 104
The Arch of the Fuencisla, 105
Gate of Santiago, 106
The Alcazar before the Fire of 1862, 107
The Alcazar from the Hoyos Hill, 108
View of the Alcazar, 109
The Alcazar from the Caves, 110
Façade of the Alcazar before the Fire of 1862, 111
Details of the Church of the Parral, 112
Church of St. Nicholas, 113
View of the Church of Vera Cruz, 114
Porch of the Church of Vera Cruz, 115
Courtyard of the Marquis of Arcos’ House, 116
Façade of St. John, 117
Church of St. John, 118
San Juan de los Caballeros, 119
Church of St. Martin, 120
Porch of St. Martin, 121
Parish Church of St. Martin, 122
Details of the Church of St. Martin, 123
General View of St. Stephen, 124
Portico of St. Stephen, 125
Details of St. Stephen, 126
Church of San Lorenzo, 127
Church of San Lorenzo, 128
Lateral Façade of San Lorenzo, 129
The Church of San Lorenzo, 130
Details of San Lorenzo, 131
Interior of San Millán, 132
Interior of San Millán, 133
Arches and Eaves of San Millán, 134
Sectional Elevations of San Millán, 135
Details of San Millán, 136
Details of San Millán, 137
Details of San Millán, 138
Details of the Convent of Corpus Christi, 139
Interior of the Convent of Santo Domingo and Towers, 140
Painted Socles in the Tower of Santo Domingo, 141
Façade of the Convent of Our Lady de la Sierra, 142
Ruins of the Chapel of the Convent of Our Lady de la Sierra, 143
Interior of the Ruined Convent of Our Lady de la Sierra, 144
Porch of the Convent of Our Lady de la Sierra, 145
General View of the Roman Aqueduct, 146
The Roman Aqueduct, 147
The Roman Aqueduct, 148
The Roman Aqueduct, 149
The Roman Aqueduct, 150
The Roman Aqueduct, 151
The Roman Aqueduct, 152
A Dance in the Plaza del Pueblo de Nieva, 153
Enrique IV. conducting the Infanta Isabel through the Streets of Segovia, 154
Group of Peasants of the Province, 155
Peasants of the Province, 156
Peasants of the Province, 157
Peasants of the Province, 158
Peasants of the Province, 159
Peasants of the Province, 160
Peasants of the Province, 161
Peasants of the Province, 162
Peasants of the Province, 163
Peasants of the Province, 164
Peasants of the Province, 165
ZAMORA
View of Zamora, 166
View of Zamora, 167
Walls and Postern Gate, 168
Stone Bridge over the Duero, 169
Bridge over the Duero, 170
View of the Cathedral, 171
Façade of the Cathedral, 172
Cathedral: Gate of the Bishop, 173
The Cathedral: East Front, 174
Cathedral: Gate of the Bishop, 175
Cathedral: Gate of the Bishop, 176
Ancient Cistercian Monastery of Moreruela, 177
Ancient Cistercian Monastery of Moreruela, 178
Ancient Cistercian Monastery of Moreruela: Detail of the Interior, 179
Ancient Cistercian Monastery of Moreruela: Detail of the Interior, 180
Ancient Cistercian Monastery of Moreruela: Chancel, 181
Ancient Cistercian Monastery of Moreruela: Example of the Vaulting, 182
Ancient Cistercian Monastery of Moreruela: Interior, 183
Ancient Cistercian Monastery of Moreruela: Transept and Nave, 184
Ancient Cistercian Monastery of Moreruela: Detail of a Window, 185
Ancient Cistercian Monastery of Moreruela: Transept Porch, 186
Santa Maria la Nueva: Detail of the Exterior, 187
Santa Maria la Nueva: Doorway, 188
Santa Maria la Nueva: Capitals of Recessed Windows, 189
Church of the Magdalen, 190
Principal Door of the Church of the Magdalen, 191
Plan and Sections of the Church of St. Peter, 192
Details of the Church of St. Peter (Nave), 193
House of The Cid, 194
Tapestry of the Beginning of the Fifteenth Century, 195
Painting in the Town Hall, 196
Painting in the Town Hall, 197
Painting in the Town Hall, 198
Painting in the Town Hall, 199
The Royal Escutcheon, 200
St. Ferdinand and King John II., 201
The Arms of the Town, 202
Queen Urraca and Aris Gonzalo, 203
Trophies of Arms and Armour in the Town Hall, 204
The House of the Momos, 205
Bridge of Rocobayo over the Esla, 206
Stone Quarries of the Town of Valderojo, 207
Earthworks of the ancient City of Toro, 208
North and Centre Gates of the Church of Toro, 209
Details of the Church of Toro, 210
Group of Peasants of the Village of Bermigo de Sayago, 211
Group of Peasants of the Village of Carbajales, 212
Peasants of the Village of Bermigo de Sayago, 213
AVILA
General View, 214
General View, 215
View of Avila, 216
Gate of the Alcazar, 217
Gate of San Vicente, 218
Gate of San Vicente, 219
Gate of San Vicente, 220
Gate of San Vicente, 221
A Street, 222
View of the Cathedral, 223
Exterior of the Cathedral, 224
Entrance to the Cathedral, 225
Plan of the Cathedral, 226
The Cathedral, 227
Side Door of the Cathedral, 228
Cathedral: Pulpit of Repoussé Iron Work, 229
Cathedral: Pulpit of Repoussé Iron Work, 230
Cathedral: Pulpit of Repoussé Iron Work, 231
Interior of the Cathedral, 232
Cathedral: Detail of the Interior, 233
Cathedral: Detail of the Choir, 234
Cathedral: The Choir, 235
Cathedral: Detail of the Choir, 236
Cathedral: Detail of the Choir, 237
Cathedral: Detail of the Choir, 238
Cathedral: Altar of San Segundo, 239
Cathedral: Altar of Santa Lucia, 240
Cathedral: Sepulchre of Don Juan d’Avila, 241
Cathedral: Tomb of El Testado, 242
Cathedral: Altar behind the Choir, 243
Cathedral: Silver Monstrance of Juan de Arfe, 244
Convent of Santo Tomas: Sepulchre of the Infante Don Juan, 245
Sepulchre of the Holy Martyrs Vicente, Sabina, and Cristina, 246
Interior of the Chapel of San Bernardo, 247
Church of St. Peter, 248
Entrance to the Church of St. Peter, 249
Church of St. Peter, 250
Details of the Church of St. Peter, 251
Exterior of the Church of San Vicente, 252
Basilica of San Vicente before its restoration, 253
Basilica of San Vicente before its restoration, 254
Basilica of San Vicente: North Façade, 255
Basilica of San Vicente: Principal Façade, 256
Basilica of San Vicente: Eastern Façade, restored, 257
Basilica of San Vicente: Façade, 258
Basilica of San Vicente: Central Gate, restored, 259
Basilica of San Vicente: Detail of the middle cornice, restored, 260
Basilica of San Vicente: Portal, 261
Basilica of San Vicente: Principal west entrance, 262
Basilica of San Vicente: Principal west entrance, 263
Basilica of San Vicente: General view of the Interior, 264
Basilica of San Vicente: Sepulchre of the Holy Martyrs, 265
Basilica of San Vicente: Detail of the Interior, 266
Porch of the Church of San Vicente, 267
Porch of the Church of San Vicente, 268
Porch of the Convent of Santo Tomas, 269
Section of the Convent of Santo Tomas, 270
Plan of the Convent of Santo Tomas, 271
Gate of the Convent of Santo Tomas, 272
Door of the Convent of Santo Tomas, 273
Interior of the Convent of Santo Tomas, 274
The Court of Silence in the Convent of Santo Tomas, 275
Convent of Santo Tomas: The Court of Silence, 276
Convent of Santo Tomas: The Court of the Kings, 277
Convent of Santo Tomas: Courtyard of the Infirmary, 278
Cloisters of the Convent of Santo Tomas, 279
Cloisters of the Convent of Santo Tomas, 280
Cloisters of the Convent of Santo Tomas, 281
Gate of the Cloisters in the Convent of Santo Tomas, 282
Choir of the Convent of Santo Tomas, 283
Convent of Santo Tomas: Details of the Choir, 284
Choir Stalls in the Convent of Santo Tomas, 285
Choir Stalls in the Convent of Santo Tomas, 286
Church of San Segundo: Statue of San Segundo, 287
Church of Santo Tomas: Sepulchre of the Infante Don Juan, 288
Church of Santo Tomas: Sepulchre of the Infante Don Juan, 289
Church of Santo Tomas: Sepulchre of the Infante Don Juan, 290
Gothic Gate in ruins, 291
Door of a Private House, 292
Calle de Pedro d’Avila, 293
Celebrated Window in the House of Pedro d’Avila, 294
Courtyard of the Polentinos’ Palace, 295
Portico of the Polentinos’ Palace, 296
Church of San Andrés and San Segundo, 297
Hermitage of San Isidro, 298
The Academy, 299
Camposagrado Palace, 300
Casa de la Baraganas, 301
Casa de la Torre, 302
Chapel of Mosen Rubi, 303
Palace of the Conde de Superunda, 304
Miniatures from the Avila Missal, 305
Miniatures from the Avila Missal, 306
Door of San Francisco, 307
A Roman Capital of the Church of San Francisco, 308
Latin-Byzantine Frieze in the Church of San Francisco, 309
Monastery of San Pedro at Arenas, 310
ZARAGOZA
General View from Cabezo-Cortado, 311
General View from Altabas, 312
General View from Altabas, 313
The Bridge over the Ebro, from the Ruins of San Lazaro, 314
The Bridge over the Ebro, from El Pilar, 315
General View of Zaragoza, 316
General View of Zaragoza, 317
General View of Zaragoza, 318
General View from the Portilla, 319
View of Zaragoza, 320
Calle del Mercado, 321
Paseo de Santa Engracia, 322
Cathedral of La Seo, 323
Cathedral of La Seo, 324
Glazed Tiles on the Walls of the Cathedral of La Seo, 325
Interior of the Cathedral of La Seo, 326
Cathedral of La Seo: View of the Transept, 327
Cathedral of La Seo: Detail of Transept, 328
Chapel of St. John in the Cathedral of La Seo, 329
Chapel of Gabriel de Zaporta in the Cathedral of La Seo, 330
Cathedral of La Seo: Reja bronze repoussé, 331
Sepulchre of Archbishop Don Lope de Luna in the Cathedral of La Seo, 332
Central Dome of the Cathedral of La Seo, 333
Silver Monstrance in the Cathedral of La Seo, 334
Censer belonging to the Cathedral of La Seo, 335
Cathedral of El Pilar, 336
Cathedral of El Pilar, 337
Interior of Our Lady del Pilar, 338
Side Altar in Our Lady del Pilar, 339
Our Lady del Pilar: View of the Choir, 340
Our Lady del Pilar: Organ in the Choir, 341
Chapel in Our Lady del Pilar, 342
High Altar in Our Lady del Pilar, 343
Paintings on the Cupola of Our Lady del Pilar, 344
Our Lady del Pilar : Choir Stalls, 345
Our Lady del Pilar: Choir Stalls, 346
Our Lady del Pilar: Choir Stalls, 347
Our Lady del Pilar, by M. de Unceta, 348
Our Lady del Pilar, 349
Silver Salver in the Cathedral of El Pilar, 350
Vase in the Cathedral of El Pilar, 351
Church of the Magdalen, 352
Place and Church of St. Nicholas, 353
Portal of the Church of San Miguel, 354
Façade of the Church of Santa Engracia, 355
Church of St. Paul: Puerta del Cristo, 356
The New, or Leaning Tower, 357
Tower of the Calle de Antonio Perez, 358
Tower of San Miguel, 359
Tower of San Pablo, 360
Tower of the Trovador, 361
Ancient Wall and Buildings, 362
Statue of Pignatelli, 363
Courtyard in the House of Pardo, 364
Detail of the Courtyard in the House of Pardo, 365
Entrance to the Audiencia Palace, 366
Palace of the Provincial Deputation, 367
Courtyard in the Count of Argillo’s House, 368
Eaves on the House of the Conde de Argillo, 369
Courtyard in the Count of Argillo’s House, 370
House in the Plaza de San Carlos, 371
The Exchange, 372
Façade of the Exchange, 373
Interior of the Exchange, 374
Porch of the House of Zaporta, 375
Courtyard of the House of Zaporta, 376
Courtyard of the House of Zaporta, 377
Courtyard of the House of Zaporta, 378
Courtyard of the House of Zaporta, 379
Courtyard of the House of Zaporta, 380
Detail of the Courtyard of the House of Zaporta, 381
Court of the Provincial Museum, 382
Gallery in the Provincial Museum, 383
The Aljaferia or Citadel. Window of the Main Staircase, 384
Aljaferia: Interior of the Mosque, 385
Aljaferia: Interior of the Mosque, 386
Aljaferia: Interior of the Mosque, 387
Aljaferia: Details of the Interior, 388
Aljaferia: Details of the Interior, 389
Details of the Aljaferia, 390
Details of the Aljaferia, 391
St. Isabel and her Husband. Tapestry in the University, 392
View of the Barracks of the Aljaferia, 393
The Casa de la Infanta. ‘The Departure for the Fight,’ by P. Gonzalvo Perez, 394
Gate of Our Lady del Carmen, 395
The Defence of Zaragoza in 1809, by Nicolas Mejia, 396
The First Siege of Zaragoza, by A. Ferrant y Fischermans, 397
Heroic Defence of the Tower of St. Augustine at Zaragoza in the War of Independence, by C. Alvarez Dumont, 398
Heroic Combat in the Pulpit of the Church of San Augustin at Zaragoza in 1809, by C. Alvarez Dumont, 399
The Maid of Zaragoza, by M. Hiraldez Acosta, 400
The Maid of Zaragoza, by Navarro y Canizares, 401
Arch from the Aljaferia Palace, now in the Archæological Museum, 402
Arch from the Aljaferia Palace, now in the Archæological Museum, 403
Provincial Museum: Detail of ‘The Mosque’ of the Aljaferia, 404
Provincial Museum: Corbels of Eaves, Gothic style, from the old Custom House, 405
Provincial Museum: Corbels of Eaves, 406
Provincial Museum: Corbels of Eaves, Gothic style, 407
Provincial Museum: Corbels of Eaves, Pointed style, 408
Provincial Museum: Arab Capitals of the Aljaferia Castle, 409
Provincial Museum: Arab Capitals from the Aljaferia, 410
Provincial Museum: Arab Capitals from the Aljaferia, 411
The Story of Lucretia. A Plate from the work entitled ‘Mugeres Ilustres,’ translated from Boccaccio, 412
A Page from the work entitled ‘Example against the Deception and Perils of the World,’ by Juan de Capua, 413
Valladolid, Oviedo, Segovia, Zamora, Avila, and Zaragoza
I
VALLADOLID
ITS STORY
Valladolid, a thriving, bustling place, as Spanish cities go, stands on the rivers Pisuerga and Esgueva, a few miles above the confluence of their united streams with the Duero. All round spreads the vast, dreary plain of Castile, interrupted within sight of the town by a ring of low hills. Trains thunder past from north, south, and west, keeping Valladolid in close touch with Madrid, with France, with Portugal, and with the rest of the world. The natural centre, this, of the old kingdom of Leon and Castile, of which it was for a long time the political capital.
The etymology of the name has perplexed historians not a little. The most probable derivation is from the Arabic Belad-Walid, the valley of Walid, or (as likely) of the Wali or governor. In Latin documents the name is Vallisoletum, from which the poetical etymology, _vallis odoris_, was ingeniously manufactured. Though a great many of the towns in this part of Spain were founded on fresh sites on the resettlement of the country in the ninth and tenth centuries, Valladolid can, with some show of probability, claim a more remote origin. The contention of the old writers that this was the town called Pintia, described by Ptolemy as lying on the road from Caesaraugusta to Asturica, is to some extent borne out by numerous remains, attesting the existence at this spot of a Roman community of opulence and importance.