CHAPTER I

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WATER WAVES AND WATER RIPPLES.

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A visit to the seaside—What is a wave?—Wave-motion on water—Definition of a wave—Sea waves—Various forms of wave-motion—Wave length, velocity, and frequency—Atlantic waves—Rules for speed of sea waves—Illustrations of wave-motion—A stone falling on water—Production of a wave-train—Wave-energy—Conditions for the production of wave-motion—Distinction between wave-velocity and wave-train velocity—Why a wave breaks—Waves in canals—Rule for speed of a canal wave—Falling bodies—A “bore”—Tidal waves—Ripples—Distinction between waves and ripples—Surface tension on liquids—A needle floating on water—Experimental production of ripples—Reflection and refraction of ripples and waves—Interference of waves and ripples—Photography of waves and ripples 1

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