Part II--Making the Shoe

[In making the snowshoe it may be necessary to refer to the previous chapter to select the style, or to locate the name of the parts used in the description.--Editor.]

Snowshoe making is an art, and while few, if any, white men can equal the Indian in weaving the intricate patterns which they prefer to employ for filling the frames, it is not very difficult to fashion a good solid frame and then fill it by making use of a simple and open system of meshing. For the frames, white ash is much the best wood, but hickory and white birch are dependable substitutes, if the former cannot be obtained. Birch is perhaps the best wood to use when the sportsman wishes to cut and split up his own wood, but as suitable material for the frames may be readily purchased for a small sum, probably the majority of the readers will elect to buy the material. Any lumber dealer will be able to supply white ash, and it is a simple matter to saw out the frames from the board. The sawed-out frame is inferior to the hand-split bow, but if good, selected material can be obtained, there will be little, if any, difference for ordinary use.

When dry and well-seasoned lumber is used, the frame may be made to the proper dimensions, but when green wood is selected, the frame must be made somewhat heavier, to allow for the usual shrinkage in seasoning. For a stout snowshoe frame, the width should be about 1-1/16 in.; thickness at toe, 7/16 in., and thickness at heel, 9/16 in. The frame should be cut 2 in. longer than the finished length desired, and in working the wood, remember that the toe of the finished frame will be the center of the stick; the heel, the end of the stick, and the center of the shoe will lie halfway between the heel and toe.

[Illustration: The Design of the Snowshoe is Traced on a Board, and Blocks are Used to Shape the Frame or Bow]

After the frames have been finished, the dry wood must be steamed before it can be safely bent to the required shape, and before doing this, a wooden bending form must be made. An easy way to make this form is to first draw a pattern of the model on a sheet of paper, cut out the pencil mark, and, placing this pattern on a board, carefully trace the design on the wooden form. A number of cleats, or blocks, of wood will now be needed; the inside blocks being nailed in position, but the outside stay blocks being simply provided with nails in the holes, so they may be quickly fastened in position when the steamed frame is ready for the form.

To make the frame soft for bending to shape, steaming must be resorted to, and perhaps the easiest way of doing this is to provide boiling water in a wash boiler, place the wood over the top, and soak well by mopping with the boiling water, shifting the stick about until the fibers have become soft and pliable. After 10 or 15 minutes of the hot-water treatment, wrap the stick with cloth and bend it back and forth to render it more and more pliable, then use the hot-water treatment, and repeat the process until the wood is sufficiently soft to bend easily without splintering. The toe being the greatest curve, must be well softened before putting on the form, otherwise the fibers are likely to splinter off at this point. When the frame is well softened, place it on the bending form while hot, slowly bend it against the wooden inside blocks, and nail on the outside blocks to hold it to the proper curve. Begin with the toe, and after fastening the outside blocks to hold this end, finish one side, then bend the other half to shape. The bent frame should be allowed to dry on the form for at least a week; if removed before the wood has become thoroughly dry and has taken a permanent set, the frame will not retain its shape. The same bending form may be used for both frames, but if one is in a hurry to finish the shoes, two forms should be made, and considerable pains must be taken to make them exactly alike in every way.

[Illustration: Locate the Cross Bars by Balancing the Frame, Then Fit the Ends in Shallow Mortises]

When the frames are dry, secure the tail end of the frame by boring three holes about 4 in. from the end, and fasten with rawhide. The work of fitting the two cross bars may now be undertaken, and the balance of the snowshoe depends upon fitting these bars in their proper places. Before cutting the mortise, spring the two bars in the frame about 15 in. apart, and balance the shoe in the center by holding it in the hands. When the frame exactly balances, move the bars sufficiently to make the heel about 3 oz. heavier than the toe, and mark the place where the mortises are to be cut. The cross bars and mortise must be a good tight fit, and a small, sharp chisel will enable the builder to make a neat job. It is not necessary to cut the mortise very deep; 1/4 in. is ample to afford a firm and snug mortised joint.

The lanyard to which the filling is woven is next put in, by boring pairs of small holes in the toe and heel sections, and lacing a narrow rawhide thong through the obliquely drilled holes. Three holes are then bored in the cross bar--one on each side about 1-1/2 in. from the frame, and the third in the center of the bar; the lanyard being carried through these holes in the cross bar.

[Illustration: Begin Weaving the Toe Filling at the Corner of Cross Bar and Frame, Carrying It Around in a Triangle until Complete]

Begin the toe filling first, by making an eye in one end of the thong, put the end through the lanyard loop and then through the eye, thus making a slipknot. Start to weave at the corner where the bar and frame are mortised, carry the strand up and twist it around the lanyards in the middle of the toe, then carry it down and make a like twist around the lanyard loop in the opposite corner. The thong is now looped around the next lanyard (No. 2 from the crossbar lanyard) and fastened with the twisted loop knot illustrated. Continue the strand across the width of toe space and make a similar loop knot on No. 2 lanyard on the starting side, twist it around the strand first made and loop it under the next cross-bar lanyard loop, then carry it up and twist it around the lanyard loop in the toe of the frame, continuing in the same manner until the last lanyard of the toe is reached, when the space is finished by making the twisted loop knot until the space is entirely filled. It is a difficult matter to describe by text, but the illustrations will point out the correct way, and show the manner of making an endless thong by eye-splicing, as well as illustrating the wooden bodkin or needle used in pulling the woven strands taut. This bodkin is easily made from a small piece of wood, about 1/4 in. thick, and about 2 in. long. To simplify matters, the heel may be filled in the same manner as the toe.

[Illustration: An Endless Thong is Made with Eyes Cut in the Ends of the Leather, and Each Part is Run through the Eye of the Other]

For the center, which must be woven strong and tight, a heavier strand of hide must be used. Begin with the toe cord first, and to make this amply strong, carry the strand across the frame five or six times, finishing with a half-hitch knot, as shown, then carry it up and twist it around the cross bar to form the first toe-cord stay.

[Illustration: The Heel Filling is Woven by Making the Connection with the Lanyard in the Same Manner as for the Toe Filling]

As may be noted, the center section is filled by looping back and twisting the strands as when filling the toe. However, the filling is looped around the frame instead of a lanyard, and a clove hitch is used. A toe hole, 4 in. wide, must be provided for, and when enough of the filling has been woven in to make this opening, the thong is no longer looped around the cross bar, but woven through the toe cord. As the filling ends in the toe cord, it should be woven in and out at this point several times, finishing the toe hole by looping a strand around the cross bar at the side of the toe hole, then passing it down the toe-cord stay by twisting around it; then twisted around the toe cord along the filling to the other side of the toe hole, where it is twisted around the toe-cord stay on the opposite side, looped around the frame and ended in a clove hitch.

[Illustration: The Center must be Woven Strong and Tight, and for This Reason a Heavier Strand of Hide must be Used]

At the first reading, it will doubtless appear difficult, but a careful examination of the illustrations will soon show how the trick is done, and indeed it is really a very simple matter, being one of those things which are easier to do than it is to tell how to do them. The method of filling has been purposely made simple, but the majority of shoes are filled in practically the same manner, which answers quite as well as the more intricate Indian design.

The knack of using the snowshoe is quickly mastered, providing the shoes are properly attached, to allow the toe ample freedom to work down through the toe hole as each foot is lifted. The shoe is, of course, not actually lifted in the air, but rather slid along the surface, half the width of one shoe covering the other when it is lifted in the act of walking. At first the novice may be inclined to think snowshoes a bit cumbersome and unwieldy, and doubt his ability to penetrate the brush. However, as the snowshoer becomes accustomed to their use, he will experience little if any difficulty in traveling where he wills. When making a trail in a more or less open country, it is a good plan to blaze it thoroughly, thus enabling one to return over the same trail, in case a fall of snow should occur in the meantime, or drifting snow fill up and obliterate the trail first made. When the trail is first broken by traveling over it once by snowshoe, the snow is packed well and forms a solid foundation, and even should a heavy fall of snow cover it, the blaze marks on tree and bush will point out the trail, which will afford faster and easier traveling than breaking a new trail each time one journeys in the same direction.

A well-made pair of snowshoes will stand a couple of seasons' hard use, or last for a year or two longer for general wear. To keep them in good shape, they should be dried out after use, although it is never advisable to place them close to a hot fire, or the hide filling will be injured. Jumping puts severe strain on the frame of the shoe, and while damage may not occur when so used in deep, soft snow, it is well to avoid the possibility of breakage. Accidents will now and then happen, to be sure, and as a thong may snap at some unexpected moment, keep a strand or two of rawhide on hand, to meet this emergency.

Combination Settee Rocker and Cradle

By fastening a frame with hinges to the front of a settee rocker, a combination piece of furniture can be made, which may be used either as a regular settee or as a cradle. For this purpose, a covered frame should be provided, being sufficiently long to extend across the front between the arm supports and having such a width that it will easily fit under the arms when hinged to the seat, as shown in the illustration. To keep the frame in position while serving as a cradle front, or when turned down for regular use, screw hooks are placed at each end, so that, in the former case, the frame, when swung up, can be secured in place by attaching the hooks to screw eyes fastened under the arm supports; while, for regular use, the frame is secured in its swung-down position by fastening the hooks into screw eyes properly placed in the front legs.--Contributed by Maurice Baudier, New Orleans, La.

[Illustration: A Settee Rocker with a Front Attachment to Make It into a Cradle When Desired]

[Illustration]

A Snowball Thrower By Albert Bates, Jr.

The snow fort with its infantry is not complete without the artillery. A set of mortars, or cannon, placed in the fort to hurl snowballs at the entrenched enemy makes the battle more real. A device to substitute the cannon or a mortar can be easily constructed by any boy, and a few of them set in a snow fort will add greatly to the interest of the conflict.

[Illustration: The Dimensioned Parts and the Detail of the Completed Snowball Thrower]

The substitute, which is called a snowball thrower, consists of a base, A, with a standard, B, which stops the arm C, controlled by the bar D, when the trigger E is released. The tripping of the trigger is accomplished by the sloping end of D on the slanting end of the upright F. Sides, G, are fastened on the piece F, with their upper ends extending above the bar D, to prevent the latter from jumping out when it is released by the trigger.

The trigger E is tripped with the handle H, connected to the piece J, on which all the working parts are mounted. The upper end of the arm C has a piece, K, to which is attached a tin can, L, for holding the snowball to be thrown. A set of door springs, M, furnishes the force to throw the snowball.

[Illustration: Cannonading a Snow Fort with the Use of a Snowball Thrower]

All the parts are given dimensions, and if cut properly, they will fit together to make the thrower as illustrated.

Springs on the Chains of a Porch Swing

Two coil springs of medium strength placed in the chains of a porch swing will make it ride easier and also take up any unpleasant jars and rattles occasioned when a person sits heavily in the swing. If the swing is provided with a four-chain suspension, the springs should be used on the two rear chains to get the best results.--Contributed by E. K. Marshall, Oak Park, Illinois.

Homemade Water Meter

Where it is necessary to measure water in large quantities the meter illustrated will serve the purpose as well as an expensive one, and can be made cheaply. The vessel, or bucket, for measuring the water is made diamond-shaped, as shown in Fig. 1, with a partition in the center to make two pockets of a triangular shape, each holding 2 qt., or any amount of sufficient size to take care of the flow of water.

[Illustration: When a Bucket is Filled to the Proper Amount It is Turned Out by the Weight (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3)]

The part forming the pockets is swung on an axis fastened to the lower part, which engages into bearings fastened to the sides of the casing, as shown in Fig. 2. Stops, A, are placed in the casing at the right places for each pocket to spill when exactly 2 qt. of water has run into it. It is obvious that when one pocket is filled, the weight will tip it over and bring the other one up under the flow of water.

The registering device consists of one or more wheels worked with pawls and ratchets, the first wheel being turned a notch at a time by the pawl B, Fig. 3. If each pocket holds 2 qt., the wheel is marked as shown, as each pocket must discharge to cause the wheel to turn one notch. The second wheel is worked by the lever and pawl C, which is driven with a pin D located in the first wheel. Any number of wheels can be made to turn in a like manner.--Contributed by F. A. Porter, Oderville, Utah.

A Snowball Maker

Snowball making is slow when carried on by hand, and where a thrower is employed in a snow fort it becomes necessary to have a number of assistants in making the snowballs. The time of making these balls can be greatly reduced by the use of the snowball maker shown in the illustration.

[Illustration: A Device for Making Snowballs Quickly and Perfectly Spherical in Shape]

The base consists of a board, 24 in. long, 6-1/2 in. wide, and 1 in. thick. A block of wood, A, is hollowed out in the center to make a depression in the shape of a hemisphere, 2-1/2 in. in diameter and 1-1/4 in. deep. This block is nailed to the base about 1 in. from one end. To make the dimensions come out right, fasten a block, B, 6 in. high, made of one or more pieces, at the other end of the base with its back edge 14-1/2 in. from the center of the hemispherical depression. On top of this block a lever, C, 20 in. long is hinged. Another block, D, is made with a hemispherical depression like the block A, and fastened to the under side of the lever, so that the depressions in both blocks will coincide. The lever end is shaped into a handle.

Two uprights, E, are fastened to the back side of the block A as guides for the lever C. A piece is fastened across their tops, and a spring is attached between it and the lever. A curtain-roller spring will be suitable.

In making the balls a bunch of snow is thrown into the lower depression and the lever brought down with considerable force.--Contributed by Abbott W. France, Chester, Pa.

An Inexpensive Bobsled

[Illustration: A Bobsled of Simple Construction Using Ordinary Barrel Staves for the Runners]

Any boy who can drive a nail and bore a hole can have a bobsled on short notice. The materials necessary are four good, solid barrel staves; four blocks of wood, 4 in. long, 4 in. wide, and 2 in. thick; two pieces, 12 in. long, 4 in. wide, and 1 in. thick; one piece, 12 in. long, 2 in. wide, and 1-3/4 in. thick; and a good board, 4 ft. long, 12 in. wide, and 1 in. thick.

The crosspieces and knees are made with the blocks and the 1-in. pieces, 12 in. long, as shown; to which the staves are nailed for runners. One of these pieces with the runners is fastened to one end of the board, the other is attached with a bolt in the center. The 1-3/4 by 2-in. piece, 12 in. long, is fastened across the top of the board at the front end. A rope fastened to the knees of the front runners provides a means of steering the sled.

The sled can be quickly made, and it will serve the purpose well when an expensive one cannot be had.--Contributed by H. J. Blacklidge, San Rafael, Cal.

Motor Made of Candles

[Illustration: Tallow Dripping from the Ends Alternately Lessens the Weight of the Arms and Causes the Tube to Tip]

A tube of tin, or cardboard, having an inside diameter to receive a candle snugly, is hung on an axle in the center that turns in bearings made of wood. The construction of the bearings is simple, and they can be made from three pieces of wood as shown. The tube should be well balanced. Pieces of candle are then inserted in the ends, also well balanced. If one is heavier than the other, light it and allow the tallow to run off until it rises; then light the other end. The alternate dripping from the candles will cause the tube to tip back and forth like a walking beam. It will keep going automatically until the candles are entirely consumed.--Contributed by Geo. Jaques, Chicago.

Kettle-Handle Support

[Illustration]

The handle of a kettle lying on the kettle rim will become so hot that it cannot be held in the bare hand. To keep the handle fairly cool it must be supported in an upright position. To do this, form a piece of spring wire in the shape shown, and slip it over the kettle rim. The shape of the extending end will hold the handle upright and away from the heat.

How to Make a Monorail Sled

A monorail sled, having a simple tandem arrangement of the runners, is very easily constructed as follows: The runners are cut from 1-in. plank of the size and shape given in the sketch, and are shod with strap iron, 1 in. wide and 1/4 in. thick. Round iron or half-round iron should not be used, as these are liable to skid. The square, sharp edges of the strap iron prevent this and grip the surface just as a skate.

[Illustration: An Exhilarating Glide Accompanied by a Buoyant Sense of Freedom Only Obtained in the Monorail Type]

The top is a board 6 ft. long and 1 in. thick, securely fastened to the runners as follows: Blocks are nailed, or bolted, on either side of the upper edge of the rear runner and the top is fastened to them with screws. The runner is also braced with strap iron, as shown. The same method applies to the front runner, except that only one pair of blocks are used at the center and a thin piece of wood fastened to their tops to serve as the fifth wheel.

[Illustration: The Construction is Much More Simple Than Making a Double-Runner Bobsled]

The hole for the steering post should be 6 in. from the front end and a little larger in diameter than the steering post. The latter should be rounded where it passes through the hole, but square on the upper end to receive the steering bar, which must be tightly fitted in place.

In coasting, the rider lies full length on the board with his hands on the steering bar. This makes the center of gravity so low that there is no necessity for lateral steadying runners, and aside from the exhilarating glide of the ordinary sled, the rider experiences a buoyant sense of freedom and a zest peculiar to the monorail type. Then, too, the steering is effected much more easily. Instead of dragging the feet, a slight turn of the front runner with a corresponding movement of the body is sufficient to change the direction or to restore the balance. This latter is, of course, maintained quite mechanically, as everyone who rides a bicycle well knows.--Contributed by Harry Hardy, Whitby, Ont.

Binding Magazines

To bind magazines for rough service, proceed as follows: Place the magazines carefully one on top of the other in order, and space the upper one, near the back edge, for two rivets, marking off three equal distances, or, perhaps, the center space longer than the other two. Make two holes through all the magazines on the marks with an awl, or drill, then drive nails of the right length through them. Use small washers on both ends of the nails under the head and at the point, which is cut off and riveted over. This makes a good, serviceable binding for rough use.--Contributed by Carl W. Lindgreen, Los Angeles, Cal.

[Illustration]

A Shellac Cement

As shellac is the basis of almost all cements, a good cement can be made by thickening shellac varnish with dry white lead. The two may be worked together on a piece of glass with a putty knife.

[Illustration]

A Blackboard for Children

Take a wide window shade and attach it to a roller as if hanging it to a window. Cut it to about 3 ft. in length, hem the lower edge and insert in the slot in the usual manner. Procure some black slate paint and cover the shade on one side, giving it two coats. Allow sufficient time for the first coat to dry before applying the second coat.

A blackboard of this kind is strong, and if attached to the wall with the shade fixtures, it can be rolled out of the way when not in use.--Contributed by Elizabeth Motz Rossoter, Colorado Springs, Col.

How to Make a Ski Staff

A ski staff will greatly assist progress over level stretches and is an aid to the ski runner in preserving his balance. A homemade staff that is easy to construct is shown in Fig. 1. At the upper end is a narrow leather loop for the wrist; at the extreme lower end a spike is placed for use on icy ground, and just above this spike is a disk, or stop, which, in deep snow, prevents the staff from sinking in too far and gives the necessary leverage for steering, propelling or righting oneself as needed.

[Illustration: The Staff, being Made of a Bamboo Pole, is Strong as Well as Light (Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3)]

The staff is made of a piece of bamboo pole, 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 in. in diameter, and 4-1/2 ft. long. The leather for the loop can be made from an old strap, shaved down thinner and cut to a width of about 1/2 in. The stop is a disk of wood, 1/2 in. thick and 5 in. in diameter. This material should be well-seasoned white pine or spruce and coated with shellac. A hole is bored through the center of the disk to let it pass upward on the staff about 6 in. Here it is fastened with two pieces of heavy wire, A and B, Fig. 2. In this diagram, C is the staff, and D, the stop or disk. The wire A passes through the staff below the wire B and at right angles to it, wherefore the wire B must be bent as shown. Both wires are fastened to the stop with staples.

The lower end of the staff, as shown in Fig. 3, is plugged with hard wood, which is bored part way through its center to admit a wire spike. Slight recesses are made in the sides of this hole to anchor the lead which is poured in around the spike. The point of the latter is sharpened and then the bamboo wound with waxed twine, or fine wire, to prevent its splitting.

* * * * *

Fine emery cloth, glued to both sides of a piece of bristol board, makes a handy tool for cleaning the platinum points of a vibrator.

A Game Played on the Ice

A novel and interesting winter game for young and old, described as a novelty by a Swedish paper, is played as follows:

[Illustration: A Player in Action Ready to Spear a Ring that Hangs on the Line between the Poles]

Two poles of convenient height are erected on the ice; if skating on a shallow pond they may be driven through the ice and into the ground, but if the water is deep, holes must be bored through the ice and the poles will soon freeze solidly in them. A rope is stretched between the poles at such a height as is suited to the size of the players, or as agreed on to make the game more or less difficult, and on this are strung a number of pieces of board, A, each having a ring of spring steel, B, attached to its lower end. The purpose of the game is to run at good speed between the poles and catch a ring on a spear, each player being entitled to make a certain number of runs, and the winner being the one who can catch the most rings.

The spears may be made of broom handles tapered toward one end, and with a shield made of tin and attached at a suitable distance from the thicker end (Pattern C). The line is fastened at the top of one pole and run through a pulley, D, at the top of the other, thence to a weight or line fastener. Each player should start from the same base line and pass between the poles at such a speed that he will glide at least 100 ft. on the other side of the poles without pushing himself forward by the aid of the skates. Twenty runs are usually allowed each player, or 10 players may divide into two parties, playing one against the other, etc. An umpire will be needed to see that fair play is maintained and settle any disputes that may arise.

An Electric Display for a Show Window

A novel window display that is very attractive, yet simple in construction and operation, can be made in the following manner: First, make a small watertight chamber, A, as long as the focal length of the lens to be used, and having a glass window, B, at one end, and a small round opening, C, at the other. In this opening is placed a cork through which a glass tube about 2 in. long is inserted. The tube makes a smooth passage for the stream of water flowing out of the box. Water from any source of supply enters the chamber through the tube D, which may be a pipe or hose, whichever is most convenient. The interior is painted a dull black.

A convenient and compact light is placed at the window end of the box. A very good light can be made by placing an electric light with a reflector in a closed box and fastening a biconvex lens, F, in the side facing the window of the water box. When the electric light and the water are turned on, the light is focused at the point where the water is issuing from the box, and follows the course of the stream of water, illuminating it in a pleasing manner.

[Illustration: The Arrangement of the Boxes Showing the Path of the Light Rays through the Water]

A still better effect can be obtained by passing colored plates between the lens F and the window B. A glass disk with sectors of different colors may be revolved by any source of power, such as a small electric motor or even a waterwheel turned by the flowing water.

Two or three streams of water flowing in different colors make a very pretty display and may be produced by using two or more boxes made up in the same manner. The apparatus should be concealed and nothing but the box end or tube with the flowing water shown.--Contributed by Grant Linton, Whitby, Ont.

Strainer for a Milk Pail

[Illustration]

Even though a milker may be careful, small particles of dirt, hairs, etc., will fall into the milk pail. It is true that the milk is strained afterward, but a large percentage of the dirt dissolves and passes through the strainer along with the milk. The best plan to prevent this dirt from falling into the milk is to put a piece of cheesecloth over the pail opening, securing it there by slipping an open wire ring, A, over the rim. The milk will readily pass through the cloth without spattering.--Contributed by W. A. Jaquythe, Richmond, Cal.

Baking Bread in Hot Sand

A driving crew on the river wanted to move camp, but the cook objected as he had started to bake. One of the party suggested using a modified form of the method of baking in vogue more than a century ago, which was to place the dough in the hot earth where a fire had been burning. So, to help the cook out, a barrel was sawed in half and the bread, after being properly protected, was placed in each half barrel and covered with hot sand. Two of the men carried the half barrels on their backs. When the new camp was reached the bread was done.--Contributed by F. B. Ripley, Eau Claire, Wis.

How to Make Small Cams

[Illustration: Channels of the Cams Formed with Strips of Brass Soldered to the Drum or Disk]

In making models of machinery or toy machines, cams are very often required. A simple way of making these is to lay out the cam plate, or drum, and then bend pieces of brass to the correct shape and solder them in place, whereupon they may be smoothed up with a file or scraper. A cam of this sort on a drum is shown in the sketch at A, and on a faceplate, at B. The method is not quite as accurate as milling, but answers the purpose in most cases.--Contributed by Chas. Hattenberger, Buffalo, N. Y.

Display Holder for Coins

[Illustration: Two Pieces of Glass Inclosing between Them Coins of the Same Size and Thickness]

If the luster of coins fresh from the mint is to be preserved, they must be immediately placed so as to be protected against contact with the hands. A good holder that will display both sides of a coin can be made of two pieces of glass, BB, between which is placed a cardboard cut as shown at A. The cardboard should be about the same thickness as the coins. The glass may be framed by using strips of wood rabbeted to receive the edges of both pieces; or their edges may be bound with passe-partout tape. Even when a frame is used, it is best to bind the edges as this will prevent tarnish from the air. Old negative glass is suitable for making the holder.--Contributed by R. B. Cole, New Haven, Conn.

Holder for Skates while Sharpening

The base of the holder is cut from a board and should be about 3 in. longer than the skate. Two clamps are cut as shown at A, from metal of sufficient thickness to hold the skate firmly, then bent to shape and attached to the baseboard with bolts having wing nuts, as shown at B and C.

[Illustration: The Holder Provides a Way to Grind a Slight Curve in the Edge of a Skate Blade]

One edge of the board is provided with two pins, D and E, solidly fastened, which are of sufficient height to bring the center of the blade on a level with the grinder axle. An adjusting screw, F, is provided for the grinder base to adjust the skate blade accurately. The support G is for use on baseboards where skates with strap heels, H, are to be sharpened. The shape of the clamp for this support is shown at J.

When the skate is securely clamped to the base the blade can be easily "hollow ground" or given a slight curve on the edge.--Contributed by C. G. Smith, Brooklyn, N. Y.

A Homemade Direct-View Finder for Cameras

Every hand camera and most of the tripod cameras are equipped with finders of one type or another, and usually one in which the image of the field is reflected upward on a small ground glass--being, in fact, a miniature camera obscura. The later and generally more approved style of finder has a small concave lens conveniently set on the outer edge of the camera. When this direct-vision type of finder is used, the camera is held so that the finder is at the height of the eye, a condition that is particularly desirable. When in a crowd, of course, the professional and many amateurs are familiar with the method of holding the camera inverted over the head and looking up into the finder to determine the range of the field. Even this method is inconvenient, often impractical.

The up-to-date newspaper photographer insists on having his camera equipped with direct finders, as it saves him much trouble and many failures. Anyone with a little ingenuity can change one of the old-type finders into a combination device, either direct or indirect. The sketches are self-explanatory, but it may be said that Fig. 1 represents a box camera with a regulation finder set in one corner of the box. To make it a direct finder, a small brass hinge is used. Cut off part of one wing, leaving a stub just long enough to be attached to the front of the camera directly above the lens of the finder and so as not to interfere with it, and high enough to permit the other wing to be turned down on the ground glass, with space allowed for the thin glass mirror A, that is to be glued to the under side of the long wing. The joint of the hinge should work quite stiffly in order to keep it from jarring out of any position in which it may be set.

[Illustration: Two Types of Ordinary View Finders and Methods of Converting Them into Direct-View Finders]

If the wing is turned upward at an angle of 45 deg., the finder can be used as a direct-vision instrument when held at the height of the eyes. The image reflected from the small mirror is inverted, but this is no disadvantage to the photographer. The small pocket mirror given out for advertising purposes serves very well for making the reflecting mirror.

The finder shown in Fig. 2 is another very common kind, and one that is readily converted into the direct type by inserting a close-fitting mirror, B, on the inside of the shield to be used as a reflector of the finder image. If the mirror is too thick, it may interfere with the closing of the shield, though in many cases this is not essential, but if it should be necessary to close down the shield in order to fold the camera, it can usually be readjusted to accommodate the mirror.

A Non-Rolling Spool

Bend a piece of wire in the shape shown in the illustration and attach it to a spool of thread. The ends of the wire should clamp the spool slightly and the loop in the wire will keep it from rolling. Place the end of the thread through the loop in the wire and it will not become tangled.--Contributed by J. V. Loeffler, Evansville, Ind.

[Illustration]

How to Make a Cartridge Belt

Procure a leather belt, about 2-1/2 in. wide and long enough to reach about the waist, also a piece of leather, 1 in. wide and twice as long as the belt. Attach a buckle to one end of the belt and rivet one end of the narrow piece to the belt near the buckle. Cut two slits in the belt, a distance apart equal to the diameter of the cartridge. Pass the narrow leather piece through one slit and back through the other, thus forming a loop on the belt to receive a cartridge. About 1/4 in. from the first loop form another by cutting two more slits and passing the leather through them as described, and so on, until the belt has loops along its whole length.

[Illustration: Two Pieces of Leather of Different Widths Forming a Belt for Holding Cartridges]

The end of the narrow leather can be riveted to the belt or used in the buckle as desired, the latter way providing an adjustment for cartridges of different sizes.--Contributed by Robert Pound, Lavina, Mont.

Removing Iodine Stains

A good way to chemically remove iodine stains from the hands or linen is to wash the stains in a strong solution of hyposulphite of sodium, known as "hypo," which is procurable at any photographic-supply dealer's or drug store.

There is no danger of using too strong a solution, but the best results are obtained with a mixture of 1 oz. of hypo to 2 oz. of water.

Bed-Cover Fasteners

The arrangement shown in the sketch is easily made and will keep the bed covers in place. The covers are provided with eyelets, either sewed, A, or brass eyelets, B, 6 or 8 in. apart along the edge. A wood strip, C, 3 by 1-1/2 in., is cut as long as the width of the bed and fastened to the frame with wire, bolts, or wedges. Screwhooks, about 1-1/4 in. long, are turned into the strip so that they will match with the eyelets placed in the covers. Thus the covers will be kept in place when the bed is occupied, and the bed is also easily made up.--Contributed by Warren E. Crane, Cleveland, O.

[Illustration: The Hooks Prevent the Covers from Slipping Off the Sleeper and Keep Them Straight on the Bed]

Collar Fasteners

[Illustration]

An excellent fastener to be used on soft collars can be assembled from an ordinary paper fastener and two shoe buttons of the desired color. This device keeps the soft collar in good shape at the front, and serves the purpose just as well as a more expensive collar fastener. The illustration shows how it is used.--Contributed by B. E. Ahlport, Oakland, Cal.

Operating a Bathroom Light Automatically

A device for automatically turning an electric light on and off when entering and leaving the room is illustrated in the sketch. A pull-chain lamp socket is placed upon the wall or ceiling, and is connected to a screw hook in the door by a cord and several rubber bands, as shown.

[Illustration: Operating the Electric Lamp Switch or Key by the Opening of the Door]

When the door is opened, the lamp is lit, and when leaving the room the opening of the door again turns it out. The hook should be placed quite close to the edge of the door, to reduce the length of the movement, and even then it is too much for the length of the pull required to operate the switch, hence the need of the rubber bands.

The lamp chain pulls out just 1 in., and consequently the lamp is lit when the door is opened part way; and swinging the door farther only stretches the rubber. This is an advantage, however, because the lamp is sure to light regardless of the swing of the door. If no rubber were used, the door would have to open just a certain distance each time.

If the cord is connected to the hook with a loop or a ring, it may be easily disconnected during the day when not needed. A light coil spring may be used in place of the rubbers.--Contributed by C. M. Rogers, Ann Arbor, Michigan.

A Finger-Ring Trick

[Illustration]

A coin soldered to some inexpensive ring, or a piece of brass cut from tubing, will make an interesting surprise coin for friends. The ring when placed on the middle finger with the coin in the palm makes the trick complete. Ask some one if he has ever seen such a coin, or say it is a very old one, as the date is almost worn away. He will try to pick it up, but will find it fast to the finger.--Contributed by Wm. Jenkins, New York City.

Preventing Marks from Basting Threads on Wool

In making up woolen garments it is necessary to press portions of them before removing the basting threads. Sometimes the marks of the basting threads show after the pressing. This can be avoided by using silk thread for basting instead of the usual cotton thread. The silk thread will not leave any marks.--Contributed by L. Alberta Norrell, Gainesville, Ga.

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Cranberries will keep fresh for weeks if placed in water in a cool place.

Skating Merry-Go-Round By Henry Burich

After once making and using the ice merry-go-round as illustrated, no pond will be complete unless it has one or more of these devices. To construct an amusement device of this kind, select a good pole that will reach to the bottom of the pond. The measurement can be obtained by cutting a hole in the ice at the desired place and dropping in a line weighted on one end. A sufficient length of the pole should be driven into the bottom of the pond to make it solid and allow the upper end to project above the surface of the ice at least 4 feet.

A turning crosspiece for the upper end of the pole is made as follows: First prepare the end of the pole by sawing it off level, then cutting off the bark and making it round for a metal ring which should be driven on tightly. A pin, about 3/4 in. in diameter, is then driven into a hole bored in the end of the pole. The crosspiece is made of 2 by 6-in. material, at least 18 ft. long. A hole is bored in the center to receive the pin in the pole end.

[Illustration: Skaters Holding the Rope Ends are Drawn Around in a Circle Rapidly by the Revolving Crosspiece, Turned near the Center by Other Skaters]

The crosspiece is easily pushed around the pole and the faster it goes the closer to the center the pushers can travel. Ropes can be tied to the ends of the crosspiece for the skaters to hold on to as they are propelled around in a circle.

Relieving Air Pressure When Closing Record Boxes

The ordinary pasteboard boxes for holding phonograph records are very hard to close, due to the air pressure on the inside. I overcome this difficulty by making three small holes in the cover with a pin.--Contributed by Robert Bandul, New Orleans, La.

A Steering Sled

[Illustration: The Extra Runner in Front is Pivoted, and When Turned, Guides the Sled]

An ordinary hand sled can be easily converted into a sled that can be guided like a bobsled by the addition of one extra runner. To attach this runner, a piece of wood is fastened to the under side and in the center at the front end of the sled top. A runner with a crosspiece on top is pivoted to the extending wood piece, which should be of a length to make the position comfortable when the coaster, sitting on the sled top, has his feet on the ends of the crosspiece. Careful measurements should be made to have the lower edge of the runner on a level with or a little lower than the sled runners.

To Hold a Straw Hat on the Head

[Illustration: The Rubber Bands are Linked Like a Lock Stitch and Fastened in the Band]

On windy days it is almost impossible to make a straw hat stay on the head. To avoid this trouble, place rubber bands through the sweatband. Before inserting, make them into loops, as shown, and draw enough to be comfortable to the head. This device will save a good many steps when the wind blows.--Contributed by T. D. Hall, Fort Worth, Texas.

Carrying Fishhooks in a Cane Pole

The person using a cane pole for fishing can easily provide a place for the hooks and sinkers in the first large joint of the pole. Cut the cane off just above the first large joint, and it will leave a space, 4 or 5 in. long, which can be used for the hooks and sinkers. A cork is fitted in the end, to hold them in place.--Contributed by Victor E. Carpenter, South Bend, Ind.

Drying Small Laundered Articles

Where mechanical drying is not in use it takes considerable time to hang out a number of handkerchiefs, laces, collars, etc., and very often the wind will blow away many of them. The task of drying these articles is made light by using a bag of mosquito netting with the articles placed in it and hung on a line. The air can pass through the netting and when the articles are dry it does not take long to take them out.--Contributed by Edward P. Braun, Philadelphia, Pa.

Decorative Wood Panels

Procure an unplaned board that is deeply scored by the teeth of the saw and mark an outline of the desired figure on its surface. Sandpaper the background lightly, cut in a moon and smooth down the tree trunks. The background can be smoothed with a sharp chisel, or large portions planed, but in all cases leave the foliage rough.

Finish the surfaces with oils or stains, applying colors to suit the parts; a piece of dried red cedar, oiled, will produce a warm red, and a green red cedar, oiled, becomes soft yellow, each producing a very pretty effect. These panels offer unlimited opportunity for originality in design and color finishing of different woods.--Contributed by Mrs. Wm. Donovan, Seattle, Wash.

[Illustration: The Designs are Worked into the Unfinished Surface of Boards with Sandpaper, Sharp Chisels and a Plane, and Then Colored with Dyes to Produce the Desired Effect]

Fishing-Rod Making and Angling By Stillman Taylor