CHAPTER XXXVI

THE PASSING OF THE OLD PERU—ITS LEGACY TO POSTERITY—THE DESTINY OF THE NEW PERU 451

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE HIS EXCELLENCY DR. JOSÉ PARDO, PRESIDENT OF THE PERUVIAN REPUBLIC _Fronts._ THE COAT-OF-ARMS OF PERU _Title page_ GIRDLE FOUND IN THE CEMETERY OF PACHACÁMAC 17 SOUTHWESTERN PART OF PACHACÁMAC VIEWED FROM THE NORTH 18 ENTRANCE TO THE PRINCIPAL PALACE OF PACHACÁMAC 19 THE EASTERN STREET OF PACHACÁMAC 20 TERRACES OF THE SOUTHEAST FRONT OF PACHACÁMAC, WITH CEMETERY OF SACRIFICED WOMEN 21 A VIEW OF THE SUN TEMPLE OF PACHACÁMAC, SHOWING NICHED WALLS 22 RUINS OF THE CONVENT, PACHACÁMAC 23 HUACAS FROM THE GRAVES OF PACHACÁMAC 24 PRE-INCAIC POTTERY FROM PACHACÁMAC 25 CURIOUS SYMBOLS OF PACHACÁMAC WORSHIP 26 FAÇADE OF THE PALACE OF CHAN-CHAN, NEAR TRUJILLO 27 CARVED TERRACES OF THE PALACE OF CHAN-CHAN 28 ANIMAL CARVINGS ON THE WALLS OF CHAN-CHAN 29 RUINS OF CHAN-CHAN 30 MORTUARY CLOTH WITH SYMBOLIC EMBLEMS 31 FOUND IN THE BURIAL PLACE OF PACHACÁMAC 32 OLLANTAYTAMBO, ONCE THE FAVORITE RESIDENCE OF THE INCAS 34 AN INCAIC DOORWAY 35 TERRACE OF THE INCA’S PALACE, OLLANTAYTAMBO 37 WALL OF THE PALACE OF ONE OF THE INCAS, CUZCO 38 RUINS OF THE PALACE OF MANCO-CCAPAC, CUZCO 39 NICHE IN THE FAÇADE OF THE PALACE OF MANCO-CCAPAC 41 INCA FOUNTAIN AT CUZCO 43 RUINS AT OLLANTAYTAMBO 44 STONE WALLS OF THE PALACE OF OLLANTA, OLLANTAYTAMBO 45 RUINS OF THE TEMPLE OF THE INCA VIRACOCHA, NEAR CUZCO 46 SEATS FROM WHICH THE INCA AND HIS SUITE VIEWED THE SACRIFICES 47 THE RODADERO, CUZCO, SITE CHOSEN FOR RUNNING CONTESTS OF THE HUARACU 48 FOREIGN TOURISTS AT OLLANTAYTAMBO 50 INCA OBSERVATORY, INTI-HUATANA, AT PISAC, NEAR CUZCO 52 CORNER-STONE OF AN ANCIENT FORTRESS, CUZCO 53 ANCIENT STREET OF CUZCO, SHOWING INCAIC WALLS 55 PRINCIPAL HALL OF THE INCA OBSERVATORY, INTI-HUATANA 57 SHOWING THE TWELVE-ANGLE STONE, RUINS OF CUZCO 58 THE INCA’S BATH, OLLANTAYTAMBO 59 THE HOUSE OF THE SERPENTS, CUZCO 61 DOORWAY OF THE OBSERVATORY, INTI-HUATANA 62 THE INCA’S THRONE, OVERLOOKING THE CITY OF CUZCO 64 ANCIENT STREET OF CUZCO 65 RUINS OF AN INCA’S PALACE 67 THE ANDENES, OR ARTIFICIAL TERRACES, CULTIVATED UNDER THE INCAS 68 SEATS CUT IN SOLID STONE, AT KENKO, NEAR CUZCO 69 ANCIENT BRIDGE OF SANTA TERESA, CUZCO 70 AN INCAIC STREET, CUZCO 72 ENTRANCE TO AN INCAIC HOUSE 74 THE DEATH OF ATAHUALLPA. FROM A PAINTING BY THE PERUVIAN ARTIST LUIS MONTERO 76 COAT-OF-ARMS OF PIZARRO GRANTED BY CHARLES V. IN HONOR OF THE DISCOVERY OF PERU 77 FRANCISCO PIZARRO, CONQUEROR OF PERU AND FOUNDER OF LIMA 79 GENEALOGY OF FRANCISCO PIZARRO, CONQUEROR OF PERU 81 CAJAMARCA, WHERE ATAHUALLPA WAS SEIZED AND EXECUTED BY PIZARRO’S ORDER 83 PIZARRO ON THE ISLAND OF GALLO. FROM A PAINTING BY JUAN O. LEPIANI 85 AUTOGRAPHS OF THE FIRST OFFICIALS WHO GOVERNED LIMA WITH PIZARRO 86 A DESCENDANT OF THE CONQUERED INCA 88 COAT-OF-ARMS GRANTED PIZARRO BY CHARLES V. AFTER THE CONQUEST OF CUZCO 90 FAÇADE OF SAN AGUSTIN CHURCH, LIMA, SHOWING ELABORATE CARVING OF COLONIAL DAYS 92 THE FIRST COAT-OF-ARMS BESTOWED ON LIMA BY CHARLES V. 93 LIMA RESIDENCE OF THE MARQUIS OF TORRE-TAGLE DURING THE VICEREGAL PERIOD, SHOWING “MIRADORES,” OR BALCONIES 95 DOORWAY OF A COLONIAL PALACE IN CUZCO, PERIOD FOLLOWING THE CONQUEST 97 CHURCH OF THE COMPAÑIA, AREQUIPA, SHOWING EXQUISITE HAND CARVING 99 THE KEY OF THE CITY OF LIMA 102 DOORWAY OF A CHURCH IN AREQUIPA, BUILT DURING THE COLONIAL PERIOD 103 ENTRANCE TO A COLONIAL INN, CUZCO 106 ONE OF THE COLONIAL PALACES OF AREQUIPA, BUILT TWO CENTURIES AGO 107 A COLONIAL AQUEDUCT 108 PATIO OF A COLONIAL HOUSE, LIMA 110 THE CHOIR AND ALTAR OF THE CATHEDRAL OF LIMA—THE ALTAR OF SOLID SILVER 112 ARMS OF THE CATHEDRAL OF LIMA 113 THE CATHEDRAL, LIMA 115 INTERIOR OF THE CATHEDRAL, LIMA 117 CHURCH AND PLAZUELA OF SAN FRANCISCO, LIMA 118 CONVENT OF SANTO DOMINGO, CUZCO, BUILT ON THE FOUNDATIONS OF THE TEMPLE OF THE SUN 119 CLOISTER OF LA MERCED, CUZCO 120 CHURCH OF SAN AGUSTIN, LIMA 121 CHOIR OF THE CATHEDRAL OF CUZCO 122 OLD CHURCH AT URCOS 123 CHURCH OF THE COMPAÑIA AT PISCO 124 PLAZA DE ARMAS, THE PRINCIPAL PUBLIC SQUARE OF LIMA 126 STATUE OF BOLIVAR, LIMA 127 PLAZA OF THE INQUISITION, LIMA 129 THE SENATE CHAMBER, LIMA 133 CHAMBER OF DEPUTIES, LIMA 135 THE HISTORICAL PALACE OF THE VICEROYS, LIMA 139 THE MUNICIPAL PALACE, LIMA 141 ARMS OF PERU AT THE TIME OF THE INDEPENDENCE 144 MONUMENT DOS DE MAYO 145 DON MANUEL PARDO, THE FIRST CIVIL PRESIDENT OF PERU 148 THE MORRO OF ARICA 150 DON MANUEL CANDAMO—ELECTED PRESIDENT OF PERU 1903, DIED 1904 152 GENERAL ANDRÉS CÁCERES, PRESIDENT OF PERU, 1886–1890 AND 1894–1895 155 SCENE ON BOARD A PERUVIAN WARSHIP 158 COAT-OF-ARMS OF PERU 160 ONE OF THE PRINCIPAL STREETS OF LIMA, DECORATED ON A NATIONAL HOLIDAY 162 POST OFFICE, LIMA 163 PATIO OF THE POST OFFICE, LIMA 165 THE PRESIDENT’S COACH LEAVING THE GOVERNMENT PALACE FOR THE HOUSE OF CONGRESS 166 MONUMENT TO BOLOGNESI 168 THE WAR ARSENAL, LIMA 169 INFANTRY UNIFORM, PERUVIAN ARMY 170 MR. ROOT AT THE NATIONAL CLUB, LIMA 171 THE CENTRAL MARKET, LIMA 172 PERUVIAN MARINES 173 THE PERUVIAN IRONCLAD _GRAU_, IN THE HARBOR OF CALLAO 174 THE UNVEILING OF BOLOGNESI’S STATUE IN LIMA 176 A REVIEW OF THE TROOPS, LIMA 177 HIS EXCELLENCY DR. AUGUSTO B. LEGUIA, ELECTED PRESIDENT OF PERU 1908–1912, TO BE INAUGURATED SEPTEMBER 24, 1908 178 DR. EUGENIO LARRABURE Y UNÁNUE, ELECTED VICE-PRESIDENT FOR TERM 1908–1912 179 THE MILITARY SCHOOL, CHORILLOS 180 DR. SOLÓN POLO, MINISTER OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS IN PRESIDENT JOSÉ PARDO’S CABINET 181 DR. CARLOS WASHBURN, PRESIDENT OF DR. PARDO’S CABINET 182 THE MINT, LIMA 183 REVIEW OF ARTILLERY TROOPS, LIMA 184 BOLOGNESI CIRCLE, PASEO COLÓN, LIMA 186 ENTRANCE TO MUNICIPAL PARK 187 THE NATIONAL MUSEUM, LIMA 189 THE MUNICIPAL INSTITUTE OF HYGIENE 190 PLAZUELA DE LA RECOLETA 191 STATUE OF COLUMBUS IN THE PASEO COLÓN 192 KIOSK OF PALMS, EXPOSITION PARK 193 PAVILION IN EXPOSITION PARK 194 CHURCH OF SANTO DOMINGO 195 SAN PEDRO, THE FASHIONABLE CHURCH OF LIMA 196 THE BALTA BRIDGE OVER THE RIMAC RIVER 197 PASEO COLÓN—THE FAVORITE DRIVEWAY OF LIMA 198 THE PRESENT STANDARD OF LIMA, AS MODIFIED IN 1808 200 A PICTURESQUE SUBURBAN DRIVEWAY, LIMA 202 A MODERN PRIVATE RESIDENCE OF LIMA 203 ENTRANCE TO THE BOTANICAL GARDEN, LIMA 205 GRAND STAND OF THE JOCKEY CLUB, LIMA 206 PRINCIPAL HALL OF THE INTERNATIONAL REVOLVER CLUB, LIMA 207 THE AMERICAN LEGATION AT LIMA 208 BARRANCO, A SEASIDE SUBURB OF LIMA 209 PARK AT BARRANCO 210 STAIRWAY OF THE NATIONAL CLUB, LIMA 211 MAIN CORRIDOR OF THE NATIONAL CLUB, LIMA 212 ANNUAL PROCESSION IN HONOR OF SAINT ROSE OF LIMA 213 ROAD TO THE BEACH, CHORILLOS 214 PORTRAIT. BY ALBERT LYNCH 216 DR. RICARDO PALMA, DIRECTOR OF THE NATIONAL LIBRARY, LIMA 217 INTERIOR OF THE NATIONAL LIBRARY, LIMA 219 PATIO OF THE NATIONAL LIBRARY, LIMA 221 DR. JOSÉ ANTONIO MIRÓ QUESADA, THE NESTOR OF THE PERUVIAN PRESS 224 COLUMBUS BEFORE THE UNIVERSITY OF SALAMANCA, BY IGNACIO MERINO 225 THE DISILLUSION OF THE ARTIST. BY DANIEL HERNANDEZ 226 THE CHARMER. BY ABELARDO ALVAREZ CALDERON 227 UNE PARISIENNE. BY ALBERT LYNCH 228 DOLCE FAR NIENTE. BY DANIEL HERNANDEZ 230 UNIVERSITY OF SAN MARCOS, LIMA 232 DR. LUIS F. VILLARÁN, RECTOR OF THE UNIVERSITY OF SAN MARCOS 233 CLOISTER OF THE NATIONAL COLLEGE OF GUADALUPE, LIMA 235 DR. MANUEL BARRIOS, DEAN OF THE FACULTY OF MEDICINE, LIMA 236 THE FACULTY OF MEDICINE, LIMA 237 DR. JAVIER PRADO Y UGARTECHE, DEAN OF THE LITERARY FACULTY, UNIVERSITY OF SAN MARCOS 238 THE NATIONAL SCHOOL OF AGRICULTURE, LIMA 239 THE SCHOOL OF ARTS AND TRADES, LIMA 241 THE SCHOOL OF ENGINEERS, LIMA 242 THE COLLEGE OF LAW, LIMA 244 ALAMEDA DE LOS DESCALZOS, LIMA 246 STREET SCENE ON THE FEAST DAY OF LA MERCED, LIMA 247 OFFICES OF THE BENEVOLENT SOCIETY, LIMA 249 HOSPITAL DOS DE MAYO, LIMA 251 MILITARY HOSPITAL, LIMA 252 THE CATHEDRAL, AREQUIPA 254 ARCH AT THE ENTRANCE TO THE CATHEDRAL, AREQUIPA 255 THE CRATER OF THE MISTI 256 AREQUIPA AND THE MISTI 257 A CELEBRATION OF MASS ON THE SUMMIT OF THE MISTI 258 LOS PORTALES, AREQUIPA 259 PLAZA DE ARMAS, AREQUIPA 260 STREET SCENE, AREQUIPA 261 CHURCH OF SANTO DOMINGO, AREQUIPA 262 GENERAL VIEW OF THE BATHS OF YURA 263 AT THE BATHS OF YURA, AREQUIPA 263 BOLOGNESI PARK, AREQUIPA 264 AVENIDA DE TINGO, AREQUIPA 265 HARVARD OBSERVATORY AT AREQUIPA 266 CHANCHAMAYO, ON THE EASTERN SLOPE OF THE SIERRA 268 ON THE WAY TO MARKET 269 LAKE OF LA VIUDA, IN THE HIGH SIERRA 270 IN THE VALLEY OF ABANCAY 271 SCENE ON THE TUMBES RIVER 272 MONZON VALLEY, IN THE HUALLAGA REGION 273 ANCÓN, A COAST RESORT NEAR CALLAO 274 THE BELL ROCK OF ETEN 275 QUEBRADA SANTA ROSA, ANCASH DEPARTMENT 276 NATIVE BOATMEN ON LAKE TITICACA 278 A LAKE AMONG THE GLACIERS OF YAULI 280 NATURAL ARCH OF STONE AT HUANCANE, NEAR LAKE TITICACA 282 PREPARING GUANO FOR SHIPMENT 283 THE HOUR OF SIESTA FOR THE GUANO BIRDS 284 THE PELICAN AT HOME 285 GUANO ISLANDS OF LOBOS DE TIERRA 286 DIGGING GUANO ON THE CHINCHA ISLANDS 287 A GUANO PORT, CHINCHA ISLANDS 288 CALLE DE LIMA, CALLAO 290 MONUMENT TO ADMIRAL GRAU, CALLAO 291 THE DOCKS AT CALLAO 292 THE CUSTOM HOUSE, CALLAO 293 STATUE OF THE LIBERATOR, CALLAO 294 UNLOADING LUMBER AT CALLAO 295 CALLAO HARBOR 295 PIER OF THE ARSENAL, CALLAO 296 PASSENGERS LANDING AT ETEN FROM A STEAMER OF THE PACIFIC LINE 297 PREFECTURE, CALLAO 298 A TYPICAL HACIENDA OF THE COAST REGION 300 PICTURESQUE GARDEN ON A RICE PLANTATION 301 IRRIGATING CANAL ON A PIURA PLANTATION 302 LOADING SUGAR-CANE, SANTA BARBARA PLANTATION, CAÑETE 303 PIER AND WAREHOUSES OF THE BRITISH SUGAR COMPANY, LIMITED, AT CERRO AZUL 304 FERREÑAFE, A FLOURISHING CENTRE OF THE RICE INDUSTRY 305 A HOLIDAY IN CHICLAYO 306 WORKMEN ON A COAST PLANTATION 307 STREET AND OLD CHURCH OF LAMBAYEQUE 307 PATAPO, DEPARTMENT OF LAMBAYEQUE 308 HUARAZ, CAPITAL OF THE DEPARTMENT OF ANCASH 309 PORT OF PACASMAYO 310 THE CHICAMA RIVER, DEPARTMENT OF LA LIBERTAD 312 HUACO DEL SOL, TRUJILLO 313 GALLERY OF THE PALACE OF JUSTICE, TRUJILLO 314 CALLE DEL COMERCIO, TRUJILLO 315 PICTURESQUE ROAD THROUGH A SUGAR ESTATE 316 A CORRAL ON A SUGAR ESTATE, CHICAMA VALLEY 317 A LOAD OF CANE READY FOR THE FACTORY 319 MAIN ENTRANCE TO A SUGAR HACIENDA NEAR TRUJILLO 320 THE CHAPEL OF A HACIENDA AT GALINDO 321 PARK OF LA LIBERTAD, TRUJILLO 322 ADMINISTRATION HOUSE OF A SUGAR ESTATE IN THE CHICAMA VALLEY 323 A SUGAR FACTORY OF THE CHICAMA VALLEY 324 PAITA, THE CHIEF SHIPPING PORT FOR PERUVIAN COTTON 326 A COTTON PLANT ON A PIURA PLANTATION 327 A BUSY THOROUGHFARE OF CATACAOS 328 ALGARROBA TREES ON A PIURA PLANTATION 330 IRON BRIDGE OVER THE PIURA RIVER 331 THE MARKET PLACE AT CATACAOS 332 A “BALSA” LOADED WITH FREIGHT, PAITA 334 SUBMARINE BLASTING OFF MOLLENDO 335 MOQUEGUA, A WINE-GROWING CENTRE OF THE SOUTHERN COAST REGION 336 THE LANDING PIER OF THE PORT OF PISCO 337 AVENUE OF WILLOW TREES ON A SOUTHERN COAST HACIENDA 338 HARVESTING ALFALFA ON THE FRISCO HACIENDA, NEAR MOLLENDO 338 SCENE ON A POULTRY FARM IN SOUTHERN AREQUIPA 339 A MILK VENDER ON HER WAY TO MARKET 340 THE SAMA VALLEY, TACNA 342 A VENERABLE PALM OF TACNA 343 BRIDGE ACROSS THE SAMA RIVER, PROVISIONAL BOUNDARY BETWEEN PERU AND CHILE 344 SNOW PEAKS ON THE BOLIVIAN BORDER, TACNA 345 CALLE SAN MARTIN, NEAR PARK ENTRANCE, TACNA 346 VIEW OF THE SUMMIT OF THE SIERRA, TACNA 347 EL CHUPIQUIÑA, AN EXTINCT VOLCANO IN TACNA 348 A GOLD TRAIN EN ROUTE FROM SANTO DOMINGO TO TIRAPATA WITH BULLION IN BARS 350 SCENE AT THE BORAX MINES OF AREQUIPA 352 HUÁNUCO 353 CAILLOMA MINES, ALTITUDE SEVENTEEN THOUSAND FEET, DEPARTMENT OF AREQUIPA 354 CARMEN SHAFT, CERRO DE PASCO MINES 355 THE INCA MINING COMPANY’S OFFICE AT SANTO DOMINGO, BUILT OF MAHOGANY 356 THE MAIN STREET OF CERRO DE PASCO 357 A MINING TOWN OF THE PUNA 358 LLAMAS AND DONKEYS AWAITING CARGO AT CERRO DE PASCO 359 OLD CHURCH IN THE MINING TOWN OF CAILLOMA 360 MINERS ARRIVING AT AN INN IN THE SIERRA 361 SAN JULIAN MINE, CASTROVIRREINA 362 THE MINING TOWN OF CASAPALCA, DEPARTMENT OF LIMA 363 HEADQUARTERS OF THE CERRO DE PASCO MINING COMPANY AT CERRO DE PASCO 364 THE PICTURESQUE CURVE OF SAN BARTOLOMÉ, OROYA ROUTE 366 CHOSICA BRIDGE, OROYA ROUTE 367 CHOSICA, A HEALTH RESORT ON THE OROYA ROUTE 368 MATUCANA, EIGHT THOUSAND FEET ABOVE THE SEA, OROYA ROUTE 369 RAILWAY STATION IN THE SIERRA, OROYA ROUTE 370 CHILCA, A MINING TOWN ON THE OROYA ROUTE 371 OROYA 372 GALERA TUNNEL, HIGHEST POINT ON THE OROYA RAILWAY, NEARLY SEVENTEEN THOUSAND FEET ABOVE THE SEA 374 STONE ROADWAY ACROSS THE HUALLAGA RIVER, IN HUÁNUCO 376 IRON BRIDGE OVER THE URUBAMBA RIVER 377 ANCIENT SUSPENSION BRIDGE ON THE ROAD FROM HUANCAYO TO CAÑETE 378 RAILWAY UP THE SIERRA FROM MOLLENDO TO AREQUIPA 379 MOLLENDO, TERMINUS OF THE SOUTHERN RAILWAY 380 THE TOWN OF MOLLENDO 380 NEW RAILWAY BRIDGE AND OLD COACH ROAD BETWEEN SICUANI AND CUZCO 381 ANCIENT VIADUCT SOTOCCHACA, AYACUCHO 382 RAILWAY ENGINEERS’ CAMP ON THE LINE BETWEEN CHECCACUPE AND CUZCO 383 HIGHWAY BETWEEN THE SIERRA AND THE MONTAÑA, IN THE DEPARTMENT OF JUNÍN 384 VIEW OF THE VALLEY BETWEEN SICUANI AND CUZCO, SOUTHERN ROUTE 385 SOUTHERN RAILWAY STATION, AREQUIPA 386 LLAMAS OF PUNO EMBARKING ON A BALSA, LAKE TITICACA 388 A NATIVE FAMILY OF THE PUNA 389 THE PRINCIPAL PLAZA OF PUNO 390 SHEEP ON THE PASTURES OF ANCASH 391 LLAMAS GRAZING ON THE PUNA 392 ARCHED GATEWAY OF PUNO 393 LLAMAS—SHOWING ONE RECENTLY SHEARED 394 CUZCO, THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF THE INCAS’ EMPIRE 396 ANCIENT ADOBE ARCHWAY NEAR CUZCO 397 A FEAST DAY CELEBRATION, SHOWING THE UNIVERSITY AND THE JESUITS’ CHURCH, CUZCO 398 INTERIOR OF THE JESUITS’ CHURCH, CUZCO 399 THE PREFECTURE, CUZCO 400 CALLE MARQUEZ, CUZCO 401 THE UNIVERSITY OF CUZCO 402 VENDERS IN THE ARCADE, CUZCO 403 A RELIGIOUS PROCESSION IN CUZCO 404 A RUBBER ESTABLISHMENT IN THE DEPARTMENT OF LORETO 406 INDIANS CARRYING COCA TO MARKET 407 CANOEING ON THE HUALLAGA RIVER 408 SHIPYARD AT ASTILLERO, WHERE THE INCA MINING COMPANY’S FIRST STEAMER WAS BUILT 409 CHICAPLAYA, IN THE HEART OF THE MONTAÑA 410 CHUNCHO INDIANS OF THE PENEDO VALLEY 411 MASISEA, THE FIRST WIRELESS TELEGRAPH STATION BUILT BETWEEN PUERTO BERMUDEZ AND IQUITOS 412 A TURBULENT TRIBUTARY OF THE MADRE DE DIOS RIVER 413 A RUBBER CAMP IN THE MONTAÑA 414 RAPIDS ON THE TAMBOPATA RIVER 414 A TYPICAL SCENE ON THE WATERWAYS OF THE UPPER AMAZON 415 SCENE ON THE MADRE DE DIOS RIVER NEAR MALDONADO 416 HOSPITALITY IN THE RUBBER COUNTRY 417 THE BOOTH PIER, IQUITOS 418 ONE OF THE PRINCIPAL STREETS OF IQUITOS 419 CALLE DE MORONA, IQUITOS 419 RIVER SCENE NEAR IQUITOS 420 A VIEW OF IQUITOS FROM THE RIVER 421 THE CUSTOM HOUSE AT IQUITOS 422 A ROAD THROUGH THE VIRGIN FOREST TO PUERTO BERMUDEZ 424 AN ENGINEERS’ CAMP AT PUERTO BERMUDEZ ON THE PICHIS RIVER 425 THE CONFLUENCE OF THE CHUCHURAL AND PALCAZU RIVERS 427 PUERTO CLEMENT 428 FORDING THE INAMBARI RIVER 429 TABATINGA, ON THE FRONTIER BETWEEN PERU AND BRAZIL 430 COLONISTS OF THE SIERRA 431 IN THE HEART OF THE MINING REGION 433 A FOREIGN COLONY IN THE RUBBER COUNTRY 434 A FERTILE VALLEY FOR COLONIZATION IN THE APURIMAC REGION 435 AN INGENIOUS PROSPECTOR’S HOUSE IN THE FOREST 436 THE VICTORIA COTTON MILLS, LIMA 438 AN INDIAN WEAVING THE PONCHO 439 THE LIMA SAVINGS BANK 442 THE BANCO POPULAR, LIMA 443 A NATIVE INDUSTRY OF THE COAST REGION 445 A COCAINE FACTORY IN THE MONZON VALLEY 446 THE ITALIAN BANK, LIMA 448 VESTIBULE OF THE BANK OF LONDON AND PERU, LIMA 449 PERUVIAN COTTON IN THE FACTORY 450 A QUICHUA MOTHER 451 DESCENDANTS OF THE INCAS’ SUBJECTS 452 A TYPE OF THE AMAZON INDIAN 453 THE SCION OF A NOBLE FAMILY OF THE FOREST 453 ALCALDES, WITH VARAS, THE INSIGNIA OF THEIR AUTHORITY 454 AN INDIAN WOMAN OF LORETO 455 A NATIVE WEAVER, CHICLAYO 456 MAP OF PERU _Facing_ 456

INTRODUCTION

Universally known as a land of untold antiquity, of fascinating romance and marvellous traditions, Peru may be considered, from the standpoint of history, the most interesting of all the South American countries. The revelations of scientific research are daily adding to the record of its glory in the remote past, when the Incas and their predecessors ruled with theocratic sway over a large part of the continent and lived in barbaric splendor at Cuzco, at Chan-Chan, or at some other of the great pre-Columbian capitals, the ruins of which to-day excite the admiration of archæologists and the enthusiasm of sightseers. The literature of the country, also, is constantly revealing new phases of the national life as it existed in ancient times, and especially in the more recent period of the Spanish viceroyalty. Unlimited wealth, easily acquired through the labor of the conquered race in the rich mines of the sierra during colonial days, led to the greatest extravagance, though at the same time it provided ample means for travel and study, the benefits of which became apparent in the fine culture of the people—a culture which has left its impress on succeeding generations of Peruvians, giving them the reputation they enjoy to-day of being essentially a gentle and polished nation.

But, although scientific investigation and literary skill have added much within recent years to what was already more or less generally known about Peru, and the land of the Incas and the viceroys has been made a more charming subject than ever before as regards its antiquity and romance, yet the Peru of to-day, the real Peru, has received comparatively little attention from writers and travellers, and is still almost an unknown country to the average reader. The purpose of the present volume is to present a passing glimpse of the Old Peru—the whole story of which can only be told in many volumes—and to give a faithful description of the progress and development that are evident in every feature of the national life as reflected in the social, political, industrial, and commercial institutions of the New Peru. The prosperous future of Peru is assured by the patriotism, energy, and enterprise that are apparent in every feature of the national life, and it is certain that the present century will see the wealth and greatness of the country increased beyond anything dreamed of in the days of the Incas and the viceroys. The spirit that won the national independence and successfully established republican institutions lives to-day, and is working for the ascendancy of the noblest ideals of the race.

In the preparation of this work, I found that the knowledge I had previously gained through close association with the people of Latin America during more than fifteen years’ journeying in these countries was of the greatest advantage. Travelling in Peru was more like visiting among friends than studying the manners and customs of a foreign people, and the uniform kindness and hospitality everywhere shown me made my experience in this beautiful land one of constant pleasure and of enduring memory. I sincerely appreciate the great assistance rendered me in securing information from government sources, from the public libraries and from many kind friends in every part of Peru, and I take this opportunity of expressing my thanks, from my heart. It is impossible to live in Peru without learning to love the country and its people, and while I have tried to allow no partiality to influence my judgment in writing this book, I cannot do otherwise than present to the reader what I found most interesting in my own study of the Old and the New Peru.

MARIE ROBINSON WRIGHT.

_Philadelphia, September 20, 1908._

THE OLD AND THE NEW PERU