Part 14
=Lay=—in garment making the disposition of the paper patterns upon the cloth prior to cutting, so arranged as to effect economy of material, achieve exact matching of patterns, etc.
=Lay down collar=—a low, folded linen shirt c.
=Lay-out=—see Lay.
=Lay-over=—see Lapel.
=Lay-up=—in shirt collar making the successiv layers of linen or cotton cloth laid out on tables and from which by means of patterns and a sharp knife a number of collars or parts are cut at one time.
=Layette=—a fussy outfit of clothes, etc., provided in anticipation of units affecting the birthrate.
=Leaf=—in tailoring, a word used to describe the folded part of a collar (exclusiv of the lapels). The ordinary coat collar consists of an outer l., or that part folded over, and an inner l., or that part on the inside of the fold, also called the “stand”. Used alone the word leaf means outer l.
=Leaf=—a division of warp threads in weaving for the insertion of the weft; a loom harness.
=Leather=—cant term for pocketbook—to “pull off leather”, is, therefore, to steal pocketbooks or purses.
=Leathers=—colloquial for coachmen’s kidskin livery breeches.
=Left dress=—the right way. See Dress.
=Left-overs=—goods carried over from one season or “sale” to another.
=Left twill=—weaving term indicating that the direction of the rib (as of serge, cheviot, etc.) leads from the bottom of the cloth (held lengthwise) upwardly to the left. See Right t.
=Leg irons=—climbing irons; also shackles.
=Leggin=—a covering for the leg like a long gaiter; a protector in cold or wet weather or outdoor sports. (=Legging.=) See Puttee.
=Leghorn=—a light-weight hat straw, usually in herringbone weave.
=Leipzig dye=—an unusually rich color (and finish) given to sealskins and other furs dyed in Leipzig, which it seems impossible to obtain elsewhere. Compare London d.
=Let out=—to make larger or longer.
=Letter-carrier’s uniform=—see Postman’s u.
=Leur=—a hatter’s brushing pad.
=Levantine=—a stout twilled silk, each side finisht equally but of different colors.
=Levelling=—a mechanical process in shoemaking, following the operation of Goodyear stitching, whereby the turn-up of the channel is prest down or leveled by means of two rolls moving automatically back and forth with a pressure of about 5000 pounds.
=Levy=—eleven pence, the value of the Spanish real, which circulated in this country some years ago. (Pronounced levvy.)
=Lid=—a hat—slang, of course.
=Lid=—a pocket flap.
=Lieutenant’s uniform=—(=navy=) see Special full dress, Full dress, Dress, Service dress, Evening dress, Mess dress, Undress; (=marine corps=) Special full dress, Full dress, Mess dress, Undress, Field dress; (=revenue cutter service=) Full dress, Dress, Service dress, Social full dress; (=army=) Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u. See also variations.
=Lieutenant general’s uniform=—see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u. Also see variants.
=Life belt=—a belt of inflated rubber, or one containing cork, for use as a life preserver.
=Life preserver=—a cork-filled belt, ring or jacket worn, if obtainable, after accidents at sea.
=Lifters=—cant for crutches.
=Ligne=—a unit of measurement: ¹⁄₁₁ of an inch (ribbon measure), ¹⁄₄₀ of an inch (button measure), etc.; the rib of a braid; as 6 ribs is 6 ligne, etc.
=Lily irons=—confederate handcuffs.
=Limericks=—a name once given to gloves of such delicate thinness, that altho they would fit a large hand, they would fold up into the compass of a walnut shell. From the town of that name, once famous for its glove industry. For the nature of the leather see Morts and Slinks.
=Limestone wool=—powdered limestone mixt with chemicals, subjected to heat and strong air-blast, coming out as fluffy white wool, which is woven into a flexible fabric used for clothing.
=Liming=—a process in leather preparation following that of sweating (qv), whereby roots of hairs are loosened.
=Line=—the fine, long fiber of flax, separated from the tow by heckling.
=Line=—see Ligne.
=Lined gold=—see Rolled g.
=Linen=—general name for fabrics woven from yarns spun from the fiber of flax; nothing like reading an encyclopedic article.
=Linen mesh=—a net or cellular sort of weave, of linen, used for undergarments.
=Linen prover=—see Counting glass.
=Linen test=—see Breaking t., Burning t., Oil t., Sulfuric acid t., Thru-lighting t., Untwisting t.
=Lining=—general term for materials used for covering the inner side of a garment or anything. In men’s clothing usually silk, Italian cloth, farmer’s satin, serge, alpaca, silesia, etc.
=Links=—(1) shirt cuffs not closed or overlapping at the ends when buttoned; (2) double-headed buttons worn with link cuffs, of the dumb-bell or loose-link variety; (3) two coat buttons joined by workt strands of silk thread, worn sometimes in dress and frock coats, also in open vented sleeves.
=Linocord=—proprietary name given to a style of buttonhole for collars and cuffs having a line of heavy thread or cord (whence name) past and worked around the aperture.
=Linsey-woolsey=—a stout, medium-weight cloth made with linen warp and wool filling; a homespun and homewoven fabric of colonial days, now practically obsolete.
=Lirripipe=—a sort of tippet, tempus Richard II.
=Lisle thread=—a fine, hard twisted, compact t. of long staple cotton prepared by combing instead of by carding, employed in the manufacture of fine hosiery, underwear, gloves, etc.
=List=—the selvage of woven textil fabrics.
=List slippers=—cloth s.
=Litter=—a temporary bed upon which a wounded or sick person is carried.
=Little Lord Fauntleroy=—an impossible kid that started a clothes cult.
=Live net=—a netted-mesh bag for bringing home fish, made much like a woman’s shopping bag.
=Liver pad=—slang for chest protector (qv).
=Livery=—the dress or uniform of servants.
=Livery=—see Wool.
=Livery cloth=—see Boxcloth.
=Livery tailor=—one who makes a specialty of and whose business consists largely if not entirely of the making of dress and undress livery and uniforms.
=Livery undress=—groom’s frock or sack stable suit, made of tan, brown or black mixt whipcord. The frock coat may be worn with either trousers or breeches and leggings.
=Living-in=—term describing the manner of employment of English shop assistants who are generally boarded with or at the expense of their employers in quarters above the stores or in specially maintained dormitories or barracks; a survival of the old system of apprenticeship, but which, under pressure of public opinion and modern business ideas, is dying away to the greater independence and welfare of the clerks.
=Lizzie=—a mental dude.
=Llama=—a soft, glossy, woolen suiting woven with a fine twill; a finer and more expensiv cloth than vicuna (which it resembles), properly made from the fleece of the Llama goat, tho largely mixt with cheaper wool.
=Loaded=—dyer’s term for fabrics surcharged with gums and other dressings for extra or fraudulent weight.
=Loading=—see Weighting.
=Lock front=—trade term for shirt collars of the folded variety having one blade or end so shaped and extended as to go within the opposit fold and hold the collar firmly in position or “lock” it. See also Meeting folder and Spaced front.
=Lock-out=—the shutting up of a mill, factory or store because the owners will not agree to demands of employes or because latter would not agree to work on terms offered by the employers.
=Lock stitch=—see Chain s.
=Lockram=—a cheap, coarse linen fabric, originally made in Locrenan, Brittany.
=Locust=—familiar for policeman’s club; a night stick.
=Loden=—a waterproof cloth made by the peasants in the Tyrol from wool of mountain sheep; resembles Irish frieze, and is mostly used for knockabout shirts for mountain climbing, hunting, prospecting, etc.
=Logwood=—the blue-black dye obtained from the tree of that name.
=Loin cloth=—complete attire in hot, uncivilized countries—among the natives.
=London=—the mere name was once virtually deified and counted the arbiter elegantiarum in men’s wear.
=London dye=—trade term for the rich brown d. of sealskins, especially employed when the skins are actually dyed in London. Compare Leipzig d.
=London fashions=—a term of conjuration used by tailors and readymaders alike but having no significance apart from the casuistry of the words.
=London letter=—a fashion l. written in New York or anywhere but London.
=London shrunk=—see Cold water s.
=London toe=—in shoemaking, a medium broad t.
=Long dresses=—the clothes of early infancy.
=Long measures=—general term for those systems of tailors’ measurements characterized by the taking of as few and as comprehensiv measurements as necessary to lay out a pattern, which measurements are subdivided in drafting, as required to give other dimensions not taken on the victim on the block. Compare Short m. and Superlativ m.
=Long moire=—m. antique (qv).
=Long neckt=—see Low-n.
=Long pants=—the first important event in a boy’s life.
=Long roll=—tailor’s term for lapels or revers buttoning low and usually soft-prest.
=Long-slim=—trade term for readymade garments designed to fit tall, slender persons. Compare Slim, Long-stout and Longs.
=Long staple=—having a long fiber. See Cotton and Wool. Compare Short s.
=Long-stout=—trade term for readymade garments designed to fit corpulent persons of more than average hight.
=Long tail=—see Wig.
=Long togs=—nautical term for civilian clothes.
=Long vamp=—Synonymous with whole v., as compared with a short or cut-off v., a whole v., not having that part of the v. covering the toes, about the size of a tip on the ordinary shoe, cut off. By cutting off a little of the v. at this point a saving is made in the leather, and, therefore, in the cost of a shoe; but with some leathers, however, it makes a better shoe.
=Long wool=—fleece 4 to 10 inches long. See Wool.
=Longs=—trade term for readymade garments designed to fit tall men. Compare Slim, Long-slim and Long-stout.
=Longs=—early familiar term for pantaloons or trousers. Compare Shorts.
=Lonsdale=—a brand of shirting muslin and cambric.
=Looking glass=—a reflector of vanities. See Mirror.
=Loom=—a machine in which yarn or thread is woven into a fabric, by the crossing of threads called chain or warp, running lengthwise, with others called weft, woof or filling, running crosswise.
=Loom card=—a perforated pattern card, such as is used on the Jacquard loom.
=Loom figured=—textil term for patterns or effects produced by arrangement of warp and weft threads in contradistinction to those made by printing; “self-figured”.
=Loom harness=—that portion of a loom which so operates or acts upon the warp threads as to make the opening thru which the shuttle flies.
=Loomask=—a kind of half mask. See Loup.
=Looney=—an oblong, flattened pad, used in pressing and giving form to the collar, lapels and shoulders of a coat.
=Loop stitch=—see Chain s.
=Loopt yarn=—see Curled y.
=Looscarf=—proprietary name for a linen shirt collar, of the double or high-banded order, so made that a scarf or tie slips around in it easily, without the tension characterising the ordinary style of collar.
=Loose-fitting=—by no means tight nor close; free; boxy.
=Loose links=—linkt cuff buttons not rigidly connected, but held together by means of a fine chain, a large link, or a separable slip catch.
=Loose skins=—a sort of union outer-suit. See Jepson.
=Lord Chumley=—the cape overcoat popular in this country about 1890, from the play of that name; still popular abroad as a traveling coat.
=Loretto=—a fine silk material largely used for waistcoats about 1767.
=Lot number=—a stock n. given to goods for identification purposes.
=Louchettes=—goggles permitting vision only directly in front, used for strabismus.
=Loud=—gaily drest; flashy.
=Louisine=—a fine twilled silk fabric, similar to surah, but softer and firmer.
=Lounge jacket=—English name for our single-breasted sack coat.
=Lounge suit=—a sack s.
=Lounging robe=—a long, loose, house gown.
=Loup=—a light mask or half mask, usually of silk, worn at masquerades, etc.
=Louse-trap=—vulgar for a fine-tooth comb.
=Love knot=—see True lovers’ k.
=Love lock=—a long lock of hair curled and tied with ribbons, worn hanging in front of the shoulder: an early 17th century fashion for men. See also Ear lock.
=Lovelace=—a dandified libertine with graceful, agreeable manners.
=Low common=—wool classification term. See Wool.
=Low-cuts=—see Low quarters and Oxfords.
=Low middling=—see Cotton classification.
=Low-neckt=—a garment is said to be “low-neckt” or “long-neckt” when the gorge in front is cut low. (=L.-necked.=)
=Low quarters=—trade term for low-cut shoes, as Oxfords, pumps, etc.
=Low-shouldered=—the extreme opposit of “high-shouldered”.
=Luggage=—British for baggage (qv).
=Lumbermen’s socks=—a knitted s. of extra heavy wool, close and compact, usually knee length, for wear in boots or with arctics.
=Lunatic fringe=—see Idiot f.
=Lunch bag=—same as Ammunition b.
=Luncheon basket=—a lined, dust-proof wicker b. or hamper fitted with dishes, cooking utensils, etc., for coaching parties, etc.
=Luster=—a low grade or imitation alpaca cloth, often with wool weft in place of alpaca.
=Lustering=—a mechanical process of giving to cloth, usually by steam and pressure, a smooth and glossy surface sufficiently durable to withstand wear.
=Lustrene=—a thin, twilled cotton fabric, mercerized or finisht in imitation of silk, and employed as a lining material.
=Lustring=—a soft, plain-woven silk fabric, widely worn from late 17th to middle of 19th century. See Lutestring.
=Lustro-fiber=—same as art silk—wood pulp.
=Lutestring=—(1) the old-fashioned, glossy silk stuff our ancestors had their gay clothes made of; (2) also a narrow silk ribbon, without selvage, used for eye-glass cords by the spectacular.
=Lynx=—a feline mammal whose fur is largely used in making winter garments.
M
=Macaroni=—an obsolete dude. This word dates from 1770, when a number of traveled, idle young cads founded the “Macaroni Club” in London, the name standing for all that was extreme or grotesque in dress; one of their greatest affectations was a high-pointed peakt roll of craped and powdered hair, that women also affected, as well as great breastknots of flowers. The word had considerable vogue in America in Revolutionary times, and m. waistcoats, m. hats, m. purses, etc., were quite popular; the term also occurs in our national “Yankee Doodle”.
=Machine buttonhole=—produced by machine in imitation of handmade b. and distinguisht principally by a uniformity impossible in hand work and often superior thereto in neatness and strength tho not necessarily so in wear; also considerably cheaper.
=Machine twist=—a 3 cord, silk thread twisted to the left so that as it runs thru the machine needle the tension causes the thread to tighten up and work or sink into the cloth. See also Sewing silk and Buttonhole t.
=Mackinaw=—a sort of extra heavy woolen blanketing, well fulled, woven in fancy patterns, employed for hunters and lumbermen’s coats, etc., also as linings for same.
=Mackinaw flannel=—an extra heavy, all-wool fabric (16 to 24 oz), used by lumbermen, miners, etc., for overshirts, underwear, etc.; usually scarlet and navy-blue.
=Mackinaw=—a coarse, pliable white straw used in hats.
=Mackintosh=—a long, loose overcoat of waterproof material, for wear in stormy weather.
=Macnab Harris=—a hand-loomed tweed made of mill-spun yarn, exhibiting a uniformity of color not possible with homespun yarn.
=Maco=—trade name for Egyptian cotton—long staple, smooth, strong, glossy, easily dyed.
=Madder=—a vegetable red dye.
=Made=—general trade term expressiv of superiority, claimed or conceded, as “that is a made coat”, meaning well—not indifferently—made. Compare Shop m.
=Madras=—a superior variety of gingham, but of heavier weight and frequently corded.
=Magellan jacket=—a watch coat with hood, worn by sailors in high latitudes.
=Magnetic hat=—see Wilsonia magnetic h.
=Magnetic ring=—a r. of magnetized iron, supposed to have virtues in rheumatism and other such light ailments.
=Mail carrier’s uniform=—see Postman’s u.
=Mail order=—a sale transacted by mail.
=Major=—see Wig.
=Major’s uniform=—(=army=) see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u.; (=marine corps=) Special full dress, Full dress, Mess dress, Undress, Field dress. Also see variants.
=Major general’s uniform=—(=army=) see Full dress, Dress u., White u., Service u.; (=marine corps=) Special full dress, Full dress, Mess dress, Undress, Field dress. Also see variants.
=Make-up=—grease paints, powders, gums, patches, bits of hair, etc., used by theatrical performers in making up for their characters.
=Make-up box=—a japanned metal box carried by theatrical people for the purpose of impressing beholders with an appearance of Wall street affluence.
=Making the lay=—tailoring term for the act of laying out the paper patterns on the cloth for cutting in the most advantageous manner.
=Malacca=—a species of cane, imported from Sumatra, used for walking sticks.
=Malo=—a sort of girdle prepared from the inner bark of the tapa tree (Broussonetia) a foot or more in width and several yards long, worn by men in Hawaii before civilization swept over that fair land.
=Mamos=—magnificent feather cloaks worn by native kings and chiefs of the Hawaiian islands.
=Man-milliner=—a designer or seller of female apparel; often used contemptuously.
=Man o’ war cap=—a c. having a wide, extended flat top on a rim fitting to the head; the uniform c. for naval and merchant seamen; also popular for children.
=Manacles=—unfashionable cuffs.
=Mandillion=—a sort of loose jerkin or doublet.
=Manicure=—a bold, young female person of enormous pulchritude who commits felonious assaults upon your fingernails, and embarrasses you if you are not used to it.
=Maniple=—an ecclesiastical vestment, similar to a short stole, worn pendant from the left wrist by priest, deacon and subdeacon at mass.
=Manipulated=—term applied to fabrics which in weaving are mixt with some inferior substance, such as cotton with wool or silk, shoddy with wool, etc. Sometimes the adulterants are carded in with the better fibers, sometimes straight yarns of the baser stuffs are used. See Cotton cheat and Mercerized.
=Mannheim gold=—a brassy alloy for cheap jewelry, composed of 80 parts of copper, 20 of zinc, and sometimes with a trace of tin.
=Mantaletta=—a sleeveless garment of silk or woolen stuff, reaching to the knees, covering the rochet, worn by cardinals, bishops and other prelates.
=Manteau Armenian=—see Armenian cloak.
=Mantle=—a cloak.
=Manufacturer=—a producer of commodities, who is also sometimes (more or less erroneously) lookt upon as a dispenser of graft (qv).
=Manufacturers’ sale=—a merchandising subterfuge; a misnomer nine times out of ten.
=Marabout=—a species of thrown silk. See Throwing.
=Marching shoes=—(=army=) for enlisted men: of russet tanned grain calf leather, thoroly stuft; worn with service uniform.
=Marching uniform=—see Service u., Dress u., etc.
=Marienbad hat=—see Tyrolean h.
=Marine corps officer’s cape=—of dark blue cloth, cut three-quarters of a circle and reaching to the tips of the fingers, lined with scarlet cloth, closed by 4 small buttons in fly, with hooks and eyes at neck, and with frog and loop as with overcoat; a detachable velvet collar with which the c. may be worn by itself by all officers when not on duty with troops under arms.
=Marine corps overcoats=—for major general commandant and all other officers, a semi-fitting sack o. of dark blue cloth, lined with scarlet cloth, reaching 9 to 12 inches from the ground, closed with black mohair frogs and loops of mohair cord four-across, with a long loop and frogs attacht to fronts of shoulder; vertical pockets; rank indicated as prescribed; sword worn outside. For non-commissioned officers, drummers and privates: double-breasted, of sky-blue kersey, shaped to the body, extending 6 to 8 inches below the knee, 16 inch vent in back, stand-or-fall collar, 2 rows of 7 marine corps buttons on front, scarlet flannel lining; a one-piece cape to match. Other details per specifications. For leader of the band: same as prescribed for a first lieutenant, with same cape. For second leader, drum-major and musicians: same as for other enlisted men of the corps, the chevrons of second leader and drum-major to be on the cuffs.
=Mark down=—an ostensible price-reduction; a triumph of the ready ingenuity of the advertisement writer.
=Marker=—in ready-to-wear clothes manufacturing a workman who lays the patterns on the cloth and marks the cloth for the cutters.
=Marking ink=—employed by laundries to spoil one’s linen.
=Marny tweeds=—see Blarney t.
=Marriage ring=—a simple gold band, emblematic of bondage.
=Marseilles=—a heavy, stout-corded or figured bleacht cotton material similar to pique, used for waistcoats, etc.
=Marsella=—a stout, twill woven linen fabric, usually full bleacht and finisht without dressing.
=Marten=—a species of sable, the pelts being largely used in the manufacture of fur garments.
=Mary Ann collar=—British for the highband, folded or double shirt c.
=Mary Walkers=—trousers; derived from Dr. Mary Walker adopting as part of her dress a modified form of this article of male attire.
=Mascaro=—a preparation used by actors for changing the color of hair, beard or eye-brows in making up.
=Masher=—a dandified sumpinorother, often incarcerated when discovered; a Lizzie.
=Mask=—a device of cloth, paper or other material to cover the face or eyes or to conceal one’s identity and sentiments.
=Mask cap=—a c. for automobile wear, with a covering for the face with goggles secured therein.
=Masonic uniform=—see Sir Knights u., Commander’s u.
=Masquerade costume=—suit yourself.
=Master’s gown=—usually silk, long closed sleeves, worn with hood.
=Match coat=—a rough sort of c. of fur or coarse woolen cloth worn by the pilgrim settlers.
=Match safe=—a pocket container for matches, often obscene, of gold, silver, etc.
=Matelasse=—a backt or double cloth, the face of which is woven with a pattern having the effect of being wadded or quilted; usually of silk and worsted with a backing of cotton or wool-and-cotton; employed for waistcoats, house jackets, etc.
=Matt=—a lusterless or dull surface, as m. kid. Also spelt mat.
=Maud=—a traveling rug or shawl.
=Mauve=—a reddish-purple anilin dye.
=McKay sewed=—in shoemaking meaning soles and uppers sewed together on the McKay shoe sewing machine.
=Measuring cape=—a device, made of cotton or linen material, shaped to fit around the neck and to drop over one shoulder, front and back, reaching about to the waist, appropriately marked with scales of measurement; the invention of a tailor by name of Beatty, who claims it yields more accurate results than is possible by square and tape; the device is also applicable to drafting.
=Measuring stick=—a rule, with one fixt and one movable upright piece, for measuring the foot for shoes.
=Measuring tape=—a tailor’s t. measure, usually 56 to 60 inches long, often longer.
=Mechanician’s suit=—any strong, servicable suit, worn by mechanicians on big motor cars—commonly, sack style, with ample pockets, reinforcements, etc.
=Medicin ball=—something like a heavy football but with no medicin in it.
=Medium bound=—same as half-and-half b. Compare Narrow b. and Flat b.
=Meeter=—same as meeting folder.
=Meeting folder=—trade term for folded shirt collars that come close together or meet at the fold when buttoned. Compare Spaced front.
=Melange=—(1) a French word signifying mixture; (2) woolen fabrics of mixt yarns.
=Melton=—a stout, compact woolen cloth, thoroly fulled and finisht with a close, even nap without luster; very similar but superior to kersey (qv).
=Men’s outfitter=—a name commonly assumed, and not improperly, by retailers who combine haberdashery, and frequently hats and shoes, with the clothing business.
=Mending tissue=—same as Rubber t.
=Mercer=—a dealer in cloths or silks.
=Mercerized=—a term applied to cotton fabrics of which the yarn is chemically treated and the fabric finisht by a combined chemical-mechanical process described below; also applied to woolen fabrics containing an admixture of mercerized cotton. See Manipulated and Cotton cheat.
=Mercerizing=—the process of subjecting cotton yarns or cloth to the action of caustic soda and other chemicals, under stretching tension, with various subsequent finishing operations, resulting in threads or fabrics softer, silkier and stronger than before treatment; named from John Mercer, an English calico printer, the original discoverer but not the perfecter of the process.
=Merchant=—one who buys and sells commercial commodities; specifically, a retailer.
=Merchant tailor=—a clothier who combines tailoring with readymade. Compare Custom t.
=Merino=—(1) a thin woolen fabric made of the fine wool of the m. sheep, generally used for women’s dress wear; (2) also a knitted underwear fabric containing more or less cotton intermixt; (3) hosiery and underwear of wool-and-cotton.
=Merino=—the wool of a variety of sheep raised principally for their wool, which is of fine quality, long staple and of unequaled felting properties. See Wool.
=Merveilleux=—a fine, diagonal-twilled silk fabric with a satiny face, largely used for linings.
=Mess dress=—(=navy=) a uniform to be worn on ordinary social occasions in the evening, to which officers are invited in their official capacity, and where hot weather or other circumstances make it appropriate, also at dinner on board vessels other than those of the fourth rate, by officers for whom the mess jacket is prescribed, when the uniform of the day has been white, or, at discretion of commanding officer, instead of “evening dress B”. Consists of, for all commissioned officers (except chief boatswains, chief gunners, chief carpenters and chief sailmakers) and for midshipmen: mess jacket, white evening dress waistcoat, undress trousers (white or full dress trousers, may be prescribed), shoulder marks, white cap, black tie.