Part 56

Berries, of course, are to be eaten with a spoon. In England they are served with their hulls on, and three or four are considered an ample quantity. But then in England they are many times the size of ours; there they take the big berry by the stem, dip into powdered sugar, and eat it as we do the turnip radish. It is not proper to drink with a spoon in the cup; nor should one, by-the-way, ever quite drain a cup or glass.

Don't, when you drink, elevate your glass as if you were going to stand it inverted on your nose. Bring the glass perpendicularly to the lips, and then lift it to a slight angle. Do this easily.

Drink sparingly while eating. It is far better for the digestion not to drink tea or coffee until the meal is finished. Drink gently, and do not pour it down your throat like water turned out of a pitcher.

When seating yourself at the table, unfold your napkin and lay it across your lap in such a manner that it will not slide off upon the floor; a gentleman should place it across his right knee. Do not tuck it into your neck like a child's bib. For an old person, however, it is well to attach the napkin to a napkin hook and slip it into the vest or dress buttonholes, to protect their garments, or sew a broad tape at two places on the napkin, and pass it over the head. When the soup is eaten, wipe the mouth carefully with the napkin, and use it to wipe the hands after meals. Finger bowls are not a general institution, and yet they seem to be quite as needful as the napkin, for the fingers are also liable to become a little soiled in eating. They can be had quite cheaply, and should be half-filled with water, and placed upon the side table or butler's tray, with the dessert, bread and cheese, etc. They are passed to each person half filled with water, placed on a parti-colored napkin with a dessert plate underneath, when the dessert is placed upon the table. A leaf or two of sweet verbena, an orange flower, or a small slice of lemon, is usually put into each bowl to rub upon the fingers. The slice of lemon is most commonly used. The finger tips are slightly dipped into the bowl, the lemon juice is squeezed upon them, and then they are dried softly upon the napkin. At dinner parties and luncheons they are indispensable.

Spoons are sometimes used with firm puddings, but forks are the better style. A spoon should never be turned over in the mouth.

Ladies have frequently an affected way of holding the knife half-way down its length, as if it were too big for their little hands; but this is as awkward a way as it is weak; the knife should be grasped freely by the handle only, the forefinger being the only one to touch the blade, and that only along the back of the blade at its root, and no further down.

At the conclusion of a course, where they have been used, knife and fork should be laid side by side across the middle of the plate--never crossed; the old custom of crossing them was in obedience to an ancient religious formula. The servant should offer everything at the left of the guest, that the guest may be at liberty to use the right hand. If one has been given a napkin ring, it is necessary to fold one's napkin and use the ring; otherwise the napkin should be left unfolded. One's teeth are not to be picked at table; but if it is impossible to hinder it, it should be done behind the napkin. One may pick a bone at the table, but, as with corn, only one hand is allowed to touch it; yet one can easily get enough from it with knife and fork, which is certainly the more elegant way of doing; and to take her teeth to it gives a lady the look of caring a little too much for the pleasures of the table; one is, however, on no account to suck one's finger after it.

Whenever there is any doubt as to the best way to do a thing, it is wise to follow that which is the most rational, and that will almost invariably be found to be proper etiquette. To be at ease is a great step towards enjoying your own dinner, and making yourself agreeable to the company. There is reason for everything in polite usage; thus the reason why one does not blow a thing to cool it, is not only that it is an inelegant and vulgar action intrinsically, but because it may be offensive to others--cannot help being so, indeed; and it, moreover implies, haste, which, whether from greediness or a desire to get away, is equally objectionable. Everything else may be as easily traced to its origin in the fit and becoming.

If, to conclude, one seats one's self properly at table and takes reason into account, one will do tolerably well. One must not pull one's chair too closely to the table, for the natural result of that is the inability to use one's knife and fork without inconveniencing one's neighbor; the elbows are to be held well in and close to one's side, which cannot be done if the chair is too near the board. One must not lie or lean along the table, nor rest one's arms upon it. Nor is one to touch any of the dishes; if a member of the family, one can exercise all the duties of hospitality through servants, and wherever there are servants, neither family nor guests are to pass or help from any dish. Finally, when rising from your chair leave it where it stands.

DINNER GIVING.

THE LAYING OF THE TABLE AND THE TREATMENT OF GUESTS.

In giving "dinners," the apparently trifling details are of great importance when taken as a whole.

We gather around our board agreeable persons, and they pay us and our dinner the courtesy of dressing for the occasion, and this reunion should be a time of profit as well as pleasure. There are certain established laws by which "dinner giving" is regulated in polite society; and it may not be amiss to give a few observances in relation to them. One of the first is that an invited guest should arrive at the house of his host at least a quarter of an hour before the time appointed for dinner. In laying the table for dinner _all_ the linen should be a spotless white throughout, and underneath the linen tablecloth should be spread one of thick cotton-flannel or baize, which gives the linen a heavier and finer appearance, also deadening the sound of moving dishes. Large and neatly folded napkins (ironed without starch), with pieces of bread three or four inches long, placed between the folds, but not to completely conceal it, are laid on each plate. An ornamental centre-piece, or a vase filled with a few rare flowers, is put on the centre of the table, in place of the large table-castor, which has gone into disuse, and is rarely seen now on well-appointed tables. A few choice flowers make a charming variety in the appearance of even the most simply laid table, and a pleasing variety at table is quite as essential to the enjoyment of the repast as is a good choice of dishes, for the eye in fact should be gratified as much as the palate.

All dishes should be arranged in harmony with the decorations of the flowers, such as covers, relishes, confectionery, and small sweets. Garnishing of dishes has also a great deal to do with the appearance of a dinner-table, each dish garnished sufficiently to be in good taste without looking absurd.

Beside each plate should be laid as many knives, forks and spoons as will be required for the several courses, unless the hostess prefers to have them brought on with each change. A glass of water, and when wine is served glasses for it, and individual salt-cellars may be placed at every plate. Water-bottles are now much in vogue with corresponding tumblers to cover them; these, accompanied with dishes of broken ice, may be arranged in suitable places. When butter is served a special knife is used, and that, with all other required service, may be left to the judgment and taste of the hostess, in the proper placing of the various aids to her guests' comfort.

The dessert plates should be set ready, each with a doily and a finger-glass partly filled with water, in which is dropped a slice of lemon; these with extra knives, forks and spoons, should be on the side-board ready to be placed beside the guest between the courses when required.

If preferred, the "dinner" may all be served from the side-table, thus relieving the host from the task of carving. A plate is set before each guest, and the dish carved is presented by the waiter on the left-hand side of each guest. At the end of each course the plates give way for those of the next. If not served from the side-table, the dishes are brought in ready carved, and placed before the host and hostess, then served and placed upon the waiter's salver, to be laid by that attendant before the guest.

Soup and fish being the first course, plates of soup are usually placed on the table before the dinner is announced; or if the hostess wishes the soup served at the table, the soup-tureen, containing _hot_ soup, and the _warm_ soup-plates are placed before the seat of the hostess. Soup and fish being disposed of, then come the joints or roasts, _entrees_ (made dishes), poultry, etc., also relishes.

After dishes have been passed that are required no more, such as vegetables, hot sauces, etc., the dishes containing them may be set upon the side-board, ready to be taken away.

Jellies and sauces, when not to be eaten as a dessert, should be helped on the dinner-plate, not on a small side dish as was the former usage.

If a dish be on the table, some parts of which are preferred to others, according to the taste of the individuals, all should have the opportunity of choice. The host will simply ask each one if he has any preference for a particular part; if he replies in the negative, you are not to repeat the question, nor insist that he must have a preference.

Do not attempt to eulogize your dishes, or apologize that you cannot recommend them--this is extreme bad taste; as also is the vaunting of the excellence of your wines, etc., etc.

Do not insist upon your guests partaking of particular dishes. Do not ask persons more than once, and never force a supply upon their plates. It is ill-bred, though common, to press any one to eat; and, moreover, it is a great annoyance to many.

In winter, plates should always be warmed, but not made hot. Two kinds of animal food, or two kinds of dessert, should not be eaten _off_ of one plate, and there should never be more than two kinds of vegetables with one course. Asparagus, green corn, cauliflower and raw tomatoes comprise one course in place of a salad. All meats should be cut across the grain in very thin slices. Fish, at dinner, should be baked or boiled, never fried or broiled. Baked ham may be used in every course after fish, sliced thin and handed after the regular course is disposed of.

The hostess should retain her plate, knife and fork, until her guests have finished.

The crumb-brush is not used until the preparation for bringing in the dessert; then all the glasses are removed, except the flowers, the water-tumblers, and the glass of wine which the guest wishes to retain with his dessert. The dessert plate containing the finger-bowl, also a dessert knife and fork, should then be set before each guest, who at once removes the finger-bowl and its doily, and the knife and fork to the table, leaving the plate ready to be used for any dessert chosen.

Finely sifted sugar should always be placed upon the table to be used with puddings, pies, fruit, etc., and if cream is required, let it stand by the dish it is to be served with.

To lay a dessert for a small entertainment and a few guests outside of the family, it may consist simply of two dishes of fresh fruit in season, two of dried fruits and two each of cakes and nuts.

Coffee and tea are served _lastly_, poured into tiny cups and served clear, passed around on a tray to each guest, then the sugar and cream passed that each person may be allowed to season his black coffee or _café noir_ to suit himself.

A _family dinner_, even with a few friends, can be made quite attractive and satisfactory without much display or expense; consisting first of good soup, then fish garnished with suitable additions, followed by a roast; then vegetables and some made dishes, a salad, crackers, cheese and olives, then dessert. This sensible meal, well cooked and neatly served, is pleasing to almost any one, and is within the means of any housekeeper in ordinary circumstances.

MEASURES AND WEIGHTS.

IN ORDINARY USE AMONG HOUSEKEEPERS.

4 Teaspoonfuls equal 1 tablespoonful liquid.

4 Tablespoonfuls equal 1 wine-glass, or half a gill.

2 Wine-glasses equal one gill or half a cup.

2 Gills equal 1 coffeecupful, or 16 tablespoonfuls.

2 Coffeecupfuls equal 1 pint.

2 Pints equal 1 quart.

4 Quarts equal 1 gallon.

2 Tablespoonfuls equal 1 ounce, liquid.

1 Tablespoonful of salt equals 1 ounce.

16 Ounces equal 1 pound, or a pint of liquid.

4 Coffeecupfuls of sifted flour equal 1 pound.

1 Quart of unsifted flour equals 1 pound.

8 or 10 ordinary sized eggs equal 1 pound.

1 Pint of sugar equals 1 pound. (White granulated.)

2 Coffeecupfuls of powdered sugar equal 1 pound.

1 Coffeecupful of cold butter, pressed down, is one-half pound.

1 Tablespoonful of soft butter, well rounded, equals 1 ounce.

An ordinary tumblerful equals 1 coffeecupful, or half a pint.

About 25 drops of any thin liquid will fill a common sized teaspoon.

1 Pint of finely chopped meat, packed solidly, equals 1 pound.

A set of tin measures (with small spouts or lips), from a gallon down to half a gill, will be found very convenient in every kitchen, though common pitchers, bowls, glasses, etc., may be substituted.

INDEX.

ARTICLES REQUIRED FOR THE KITCHEN, 588

BEVERAGES, 458 Ale, Mulled, or Egg Flip, 468 Beer, Ginger, 465 Hop, 465 Spruce, 466 Buttermilk as a Drink, 461 Cherry Bounce, 465 Chocolate, 461 Cocoa, 461 Coffee, 458 Filtered or Drip, 459 Healing Properties of, 458 Iced, 460 Substitute for Cream in, 460 Vienna, 459 Cordial, Blackberry, 465 Noyeau, 468 Cream Soda Without Fountain, 467 Egg Flip, or Mulled Ale, 468 Egg Nog, 468 General Remarks, 458 Inexpensive Drink, 472 Junket, Delicious, 466 Koumiss, 470 Lemonade, 469 For a Summer Draught, 463 Lemon Syrup, 467 Mead Sassafras, 467 Pineappleade, 471 Punch, Hot, To Make, 469 Milk, 468 Milk, Fine, 469 Roman. No. 1, 466 Roman. No. 2, 466 Raspberry Shrub, 466 Seidlitz Powder, 471 Syrup, Lemon, 467 Strawberry and Raspberry, 469 Tea, Iced, 461 To Make, 460 The Healing Properties of Tea or Coffee, 458 Vinegar, Home-made Table, 471 Pineapple, 470 Raspberry. No. 1, 470 Raspberry. No. 2, 471 Very Strong Table, 471 Water, Strawberry, 469 Wine, Blackberry No. 1, 462 Blackberry. No. 2, 463 Black Currant, 464 Currant. No. 1, 462 Currant. No. 2, 462 Grape, 463 Honey or Methelin, 464 Orange, Florida, 463 Raisin, 464 Whey, 467

BREAD, 238 Bread, Brown, Boston, 244 Brown, Boston Unfermented, 244 Brown, Rhode Island, 245 Brown, Steamed, 245 Brown, Virginia, 245 Compressed Yeast, 241 Corn, 247 Corn and Rye, 245 Corn, Boston, 247 Corn, Virginia, 247 French, 246 German, 247 Graham, 243 Graham, Unfermented, 244 Milk Yeast, 243 Rye, 245 Rye and Corn, 245 Salt-raising, 242 Twist, 246 Wheat, 240 Cake, Corn, New England, 246 Corn, Spider, 249 Indian Loaf, 248 Johnnie, 248 Potato, Raised, 249 General Directions, 238 Southern Corn Meal Pone, or Corn Dodgers, 249 Yeast, Dried, or Yeast Cakes, 242 Home-made, 241 Unrivaled, 242

BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC, 249 Biscuit, Baking Powder, 251 Beaten, 254 Egg, 252 Graham (With Yeast), 252 Grafton Milk, 254 Light. No. 1, 252 Light. No. 2, 252 Potato, 254 Raised, 251 Soda, 251 Sour Milk, 251 Vinegar, 254 Bread Crumbs, Prepared, 272 Bread, Warm for Breakfast, 250 Buns, London Hot Cross, 255 Cake, Newport Breakfast, 271 Cakes, Buckwheat, 266 Buckwheat (Raised), 265 Buckwheat (Without Yeast), 265 Drop (Rye), 261 Drop (Wheat), 262 Flannel (With Yeast), 262 Tea, Berry, 261 Griddle (Very Good), 263 Griddle, Bread, 264 Griddle, Corn Meal, 263 Griddle, Corn Meal (With Yeast), 263 Griddle, Feather, 262 Griddle, French, 265 Griddle, Graham, 264 Griddle, Green Corn, 265 Griddle, Huckleberry, 265 Griddle, Potato, 264 Griddle, Rice, 264 Griddle, Sour Milk, 263 Griddle, Swedish, 266 Griddle, Wheat, 262 Cannelons, or Fried Puffs, 268 Cracked Wheat, 275 Crackers, 272 French, 273 Cracknels, 257 Croquettes, Hominy, 274 Rice, 274 Crumpets, English, 272 Plain, 272 Fritters, Apple, 267 Cream, 266 Corn Meal, 266 Currant, 266 German, 269 Golden Ball, 268 Green Corn, 269 Hominy, 269 Parsnip, 269 Peach, 267 Pineapple, 267 Wheat, 267 Gems, Graham. No. 1, 259 Graham. No. 2, 259 Graham, Plain, 259 General Suggestions, 249 Hominy, 274, 276 Hulled Corn or Samp, 275 Muffins, Corn Meal (Without Eggs), 258 Egg (Fine), 257 Hominy, 259 Plain, 258 Raised. No. 1, 257 Raised. No. 2, 257 Tennessee, 258 Without Eggs, 258 Mush, Corn Meal, or Hasty Pudding, 273 Fried, 273 Graham, 273 Oat Flakes, 275 Oat Meal, 274 Steamed, 276 Pop-overs, 262 Prepared Bread Crumbs, 272 Puff Balls, 271 Puffs, Breakfast, 272 Rolls, Dinner, Fried, 271 French, 253 Parker House, 253 Parker House (Unfermented), 253 Stale (To Renew), 250 Rice, Boiled, 275 Rusks, 256 With Yeast, 256 Unfermented, 256 Sally Lunn, 255 Unfermented, 255 Samp, or Hulled Corn, 275 Scones, Scotch, 256 Short Cake, Cream, 269 Huckleberry, 271 Lemon, 270 Orange, 270 Strawberry, 270 Waffles, 260 Continental Hotel, 260 Cream, 260 Newport, 260 Rice. No. 1, 261 Rice. No. 2, 261 Rice, German, 261

TOAST, 276 American, 277 Apple, 281 Cheese. No. 1, 277 No. 2, 278 Chicken Hash with Rice, 281 Codfish on (Cuban Style), 280 Cream, 277 Eggs on, 279 Baked on, 279 Halibut on, 281 Ham, 279 Hashed Beef on, 280 Milk, 277 Minced Fowls on, 279 Mushrooms on, 278 Nuns', 277 Oyster, 278 Reed Birds on, 279 Tomato, 278 Veal Hash on, 280

BUTTER AND CHEESE, 219 Butter, A Brine to Preserve, 220 Putting up to Keep, 220 To Make, 219 To Make Quickly, 220 Cheese, Cottage, 221 Cream (New Jersey), 221 Cream Toast, 223 Fondu, 222 Scalloped, 222 Soufflé, 222 Straws, Cayenne, 223 Curds and Cream, 221 Pastry Ramakins, 223 Rarebit, Welsh, 224 Slip, 222 Welsh Rarebit, 224

CAKE, ETC., 282 Suggestions in Regard to Cake Making, 282

FROSTING OR ICING, 284 Almond, 285 Boiled, 286 Chocolate, 285 Gelatine, 287 Golden, 287 Without Eggs, 287 Icing, Chocolate, Plain, 285 Sugar, 286 Tutti Frutti, 286

FILLINGS FOR LAYER CAKES, 287 No. 1. Cream Filling, 287 No. 2. Cream Filling, 288 No. 3. Ice Cream Filling, 288 No. 4. Apple Filling, 288 No. 5. Apple Filling, 288 No. 6. Cream Frosting, 288 No. 7. Peach Cream Filling, 288 No. 8. Chocolate Cream Filling, 289 No. 9. Chocolate Cream Filling, 289 No. 10. Banana Filling, 289 No. 11. Lemon Jelly Filling, 289 No. 12. Orange Cake Filling, 289 No. 13. Fig Filling, 289 No. 14. Fruit Filling, 290 Cake, Almond, 303 Angel, 302 Bread or Raised, 290 Bride, 294 Chocolate, No. 1, 298 Chocolate, No. 2, 298 Chocolate, No. 3, 298 Chocolate, French, 297 Citron, 295 Cocoanut, 299 Cocoanut and Almond, 299 Coffee, 299 Cream, 300 Cream (Cheap), 306 Cream, Whipped, 304 Custard or Cream, 305 Delicate, 295 Election, 300 Feather, 300 Fruit (Superior), 290 Fruit, by Measure (Excellent), 291 Fruit, Dried Apple, 300 Fruit, Layer, 304 Fruit, Molasses, 291 Fruit, White, 391 Gingerbread, Hard, 306 Gingerbread, Plain, 307 Ginger, Soft, 306 Gold, 296 Gold and Silver, 307 Golden Spice, 303 Golden Cream, 300 Gold or Lemon, 296 Hickory Nut or Walnut, 305 Huckleberry, 308 Jelly, Layer, 305 Jelly, Rochester, 303 Jelly, Rolled, 304 Layer, To Cut, 304 Lemon, 295 Lemon or Gold, 296 Loaf (Superior), 297 Loaf (Washington), 302 Marble, 297 Pound, Citron, 295 Pound, Cocoanut, 295 Pound, English, 294 Pound, Plain, 294 Queen's, 302 Ribbon, 302 Silver or Delicate, 296 Snow (Delicious), 296 Sponge, 292 Sponge, Almond, 292 Sponge, Lemon, 293 Sponge (Old-fashioned), 293 Sponge, Plain, 293 Sponge, White, 292 Sweet Strawberry, 308 White Mountain, No. 1, 301 White Mountain, No. 2, 301 Without Eggs, 301 Cakes, Corn Starch, 312 Cream, Boston, 307 Cup, 311 Cup, Molasses 308 Fancy, 310 Fried, or Doughnuts, 316 Fried, or Crullers, 317 Jelly, Brunswick, 313 Molasses Cup, 308 Nut, Fried, 318 Peach, 310 Plum, Little, 313 Variegated, 311 Cookies, 315 Cocoanut, 316 Crisp (Very Nice), 316 Favorite, 315 Fruit, 315 Ginger, 309 Lemon, 316 Crullers, or Fried Cakes, 317 or Wonders, 318 Doughnuts, Bakers' Raised, 317 German, 318 or Fried Cakes, 316 Puff Ball, 319 Raised, 317 Drops, Sponge, 313 Dominoes, 310 Eclairs, Chocolate, 308 Ginger Biscuit, White, 307 Cookies, 309 Snaps, 309 Snaps, Bakers', 309 Gingerbread, Hard, 306 Plain, 307 Jumbles, 314 Almond, 315 Cocoanut, 314 Fruit, 315 Philadelphia, 314 Wine, 314 Lady Fingers, or Savory Biscuit, 312 Neapolitaines, 313 Sandwiches, Pastry, 313 Savory Biscuit, 312 Trifles, 319 Wafers, 310

CANNED FRUITS AND VEGETABLES, 438 Boiled Cider, Canned, 442 Canned Corn, 441 Fruit Juices, 440 Grapes, 439 Mince Meat, 442 Peaches, 439 Peas, 441 Pineapple, 440 Plums, 442 Pumpkin, 442 Quinces, 440 Strawberries, 439 Tomatoes, 440 Peach Butter, 443 General Remarks, 438 Peaches Dried with Sugar, 443 To Can Corn, 441 Peas, 441 Pineapple, 440

CARVING, 7 Beef, Hind-Quarter, 8 Fore-Quarter, 8 Sirloin of, 14 Duck, Roast, 24 Fowls, Roast, 23 Goose, Roast, 23 Ham, Roast, 20 Lamb, Fore-Quarter, 19 Mackerel, 26 Mutton, 11 Leg of, 18 Partridges, 24 Pheasant, 25 Pigeons, 25 Pork, 12 Salmon, Boiled, 26 Turkey, Roast, 22 Veal, Breast of, 15 Fore-Quarter, 10 Fillet of, 16 Hind-Quarter, 10 Neck of, 17 Venison, 13 Haunch of, 21

COLORING FOR FRUIT, CONFECTIONERY, ETC., 444 Caramel, or Burnt Sugar, 445 Coloring, Green, 444 Red, Deep, 444 Red or Pink, 444 Yellow, 444 Sugar Grains, 445 Colored, 445 To Clarify Jelly, 445

CONFECTIONERY, 446 Candy, Butter Scotch, 453 Chocolate Caramels, 450 Chocolate Creams, 448 Chocolate Cream Drops, 457 Cocoanut, 452 Cocoanut Caramels, 456 Cocoanut Creams, 457 Cocoanut Creams, 449 Currant Drops, 451 Everton Taffy, 452 Fig, 454 French Cream, 447 French Vanilla Cream, 456 Fruit Creams, 448 Fruit and Nut Creams, 457 Grilled Almonds, 450 Hoarhound, 453 Lemon Drops, 451 Maple Sugar Creams, 450 Molasses, 455 Molasses and Nut, 451 Nut, Sugar, 452 Nut, Molasses, 451 Nut Creams, 450 Orange Drops, 457 Peppermint Drops, 451 Pop Corn. No. 1, 453 Pop Corn. No. 2, 453 Raspberry Creams, 449 Roley Poley, 454 Stick, 450 Variegated Creams, 449 Walnut Creams, 448 Candied Oranges, 454 Candies Without Cooking, 456 Conserves, Peach, 455 Strawberry, 455 Dried Preserves, 456 General Remarks, 446 Jujube Paste, 454 Maple Walnuts, 452 Peach Leather, 455 Pop Corn Balls, 452