Part 54

1591. The 33rd, William Rider, Benet Barnham; mayor, Sir William Webb, salter.

1592. The 34th, John Garrard, Robert Taylor; mayor, Sir William Roe, ironmonger.

1593. The 35th, Paule Banning, Peter Hauton; mayor, Sir Cuthbert Buckle, vintner, for part, Sir Richard Martin, goldsmith, for the rest.

1594. The 36th, Robert Lee, Thomas Benet; mayor, Sir John Spencer, clothworker.

1595. The 37th, Thomas Low, Leonard Holiday; mayor, Sir Stephen Slany, skinner.

1596. The 38th, John Wattes, Richard Godard; mayor, Thomas Skinner, clothworker, for part, Sir Henry Billingsley, haberdasher.

1597. The 39th, Henry Roe, John More; mayor, Sir Richard Saltenstall, skinner.

1598. The 40th, Edward Holmeden, Robert Hampson; mayor, Sir Stephen Some, grocer.

1599. The 41st, Humfrey Welde, grocer, Roger Clarke, salter; mayor, Sir Nicholas Mosley, clothworker.

1600. The 42nd, Thomas Cambell, ironmonger, Thomas Smith, haberdasher, William Craven, merchant-tailor; mayor, Sir William Rider, haberdasher.

1601. The 43rd, Henry Anderson, girdler; William Glover, dyer; mayor, Sir John Garrard, haberdasher.

1602. The 44th, James Pemberton, goldsmith, John Swinerton, merchant-tailor; mayor, Robert Lee, merchant-tailor.

* * * * *

Thus much for the chief and principal governors of this famous city; of whose public government, with the assistance of inferior officers, their charges for keeping of the peace, service of the prince, and honour of this city, much might have been said, and I had thought to have touched more at large; but being informed that a learned gentleman (James Dalton, a citizen born), minded such a labour, and promised to perform it, I have forborne and left the same to his good leisure, but he being now lately deceased without finishing any such work (a common fault to promise more than to perform), and I hear not of any other that taketh it in hand, I have been divers times minded to add certain chapters to this book, but being (by the good pleasure of God) visited with sickness, such as my feet (which have borne me many a mile) have of late years refused, once in four or five months, to convey me from my bed to my study, and therefore could not do as I would.

At length, remembering I had long since gathered notes to have chaptered, am now forced to deliver them unperfected, and desire the readers to pardon me, that want not will to pleasure them.

FOOTNOTES:

[303] “Since called shiriffes, and judges of the King’s court, and have therefore under-shiriffes, men learned in the law, to sit in their courts. Domesmen, or judges of the King’s court.”--_Stow._

[304] The first edition has “mayor Hugh Fitz Thomas,” and does not make mention of “Fitz Ottonis.”

[305] Hallontide,--or, as it was more generally designated, All Hallontide,--is the older designation of All Saints’ day, the 1st of November.

ALDERMEN AND SHERIFFS OF LONDON

There be in this city, according to the number of wards, twenty-six aldermen; whereof yearly, on the feast day of St. Michael the Archangel, one of them is elected to be mayor for the year following, to begin on the 28th of October: the other aldermen, his brethren, are to him assistants in councils, courts, etc.

More, there is a recorder of London, a grave and learned lawyer, skilful in the customs of this city, also assistant to the lord mayor: he taketh place in councils and in courts before any man that hath not been mayor, and learnedly delivereth the sentences of the whole court.

The sheriffs of London, of old time chosen out of the commonalty, commoners, and oftentimes never came to be aldermen, as many aldermen were never sheriffs, and yet advanced to be mayor, but of late (by occasion) the sheriffs have been made aldermen before or presently after their election.

Nicholas Faringdon was never sheriff, yet four times mayor of this city, and so of other, which reproveth a bye word, such a one will be mayor, or he be sheriff, etc.

Then is there a chamberlain of London. A common clerk, or town clerk. A common sergeant.

OFFICERS BELONGING TO THE LORD MAYOR’S HOUSE

Sword-bearer, } Common hunt, } esquires, four. Common crier, } Water bailiff. } Coroner of London. Sergeant carvers, three. Sergeants of the chamber, three. Sergeant of the channel. Yeoman of the channel. Yeomen of the water side, four. Under water-bailiff. Yeomen of the chamber, two. Meal weighers, three. Yeomen of the wood wharfs, two. The sword-bearer’s man. } Common hunt’s men, two. } Common crier’s man. } gentlemen’s men, seven. Water-bailiffs’ men, two. } The carver’s man. }

Whereof nine of these have liveries of the lord mayor, viz., the sword-bearer, and his man, the three carvers, and the four yeomen of the water side; all the rest have their liveries from the chamber of London.

Thus far after my notes delivered by an officer of the lord mayor’s house, but unperfected; for I remember a crowner, an under-chamberlain, and four clerks of the mayor’s court, and others.

THE SHERIFFS OF LONDON; THEIR OFFICERS

The sheriffs of London, in the year 1471, were appointed each of them to have sixteen sergeants, every sergeant to have his yeoman, and six clerks; to wit, a secondary, a clerk of the papers, and four other clerks, besides the under sheriffs’ clerks, their stewards, butlers, porters, and other in household many.

OF THE MAYOR’S AND SHERIFFS’ LIVERIES SOMEWHAT

To follow precedent of former time, the clerks of companies were to inquire for them of their companies that would have the mayor’s livery, their money as a benevolence given, which must be twenty shillings at the least put in a purse, with their names that gave it, and the wardens to deliver it to the mayor by the first of December; for the which every man had then sent him four yards of broad cloth, rowed or striped athwart, with a different colour to make him a gown, and these were called ray gowns, which was then the livery of the mayor, and also of the sheriffs, but each differing from others in the colours.

Of older times I read, that the officers of this city wore gowns of party colours, as the right side of one colour and the left side of another; as, for example, I read in books of accounts in the Guildhall, that in the 19th year of Henry VI. there was bought for an officer’s gown two yards of cloth, coloured mustard villars (a colour now out of use), and two yards of cloth, coloured blue, price two shillings the yard, in all eight shillings. More, paid to John Pope, draper, for two gown cloths, eight yards of two colours, _eux ombo deux de rouge_ (or red), _medle bune_, and _porre_ (or purple) colour, price the yard two shillings. These gowns were for Piers Rider and John Bukles, clerks of the chamber.

More, I read that in the year 1516, in the 7th of Henry VIII., it was agreed by a common council in the Guildhall that the sheriffs of London should (as they had been accustomed) give yearly rayed gowns to the recorder, chamberlain, common sergeant, and common clerk, the sword-bearer, common hunt, water-bailiff, common crier, like as to their own offices, etc.

1525. More, in the 16th of Henry VIII., Sir William Bayly, then being mayor, made a request, for that clothes of ray (as he alleged) were evil wrought, his officers might be permitted (contrary to custom) for that year to wear gowns of one colour; to the which, in a common council, one answered and said, “Yea, it might be permitted,” and no man said, “Nay,” and so it passed. Thus much for party coloured and ray gowns have I read: but for benevolence to the mayor, I find that of later time that each man giving forty shillings towards his charges, received four yards of broad cloth to make him a gown, for Thomas White performed it in the 1st of Queen Mary; but Sir Thomas Lodge gave instead of four yards of broad cloth, three yards of satin to make them doublets, and since that the three yards of satin is turned into a silver spoon, and so it holdeth.

The days of attendance that the fellowships do give to the mayor at his going to Paules were seven, as followeth:--

1. Alhallowen day. 2. Christmasse day. 3. St. Stephen’s day. 4. St. John’s day. 5. New Year’s day. 6. Twelfth day. 7. Candlemasse day.

The 23rd of Henry VIII., these companies had place at the mayor’s feast in the Guildhall, in order as followeth; I speak by precedent, for I was never feast-follower:--

1. Mercers, the wardens, and seventeen persons, five messes. 2. Grocers, the wardens, and sixteen persons, four messes. 3. Drapers, the wardens, and twelve persons, four messes. 4. Fishmongers, the wardens, and twelve persons, four messes. 5. Goldsmiths, the wardens, and ten persons, three messes. 6. Skinners, the wardens, and eight persons, three messes. 7. Merchant-tailors, the wardens, and nine persons, three messes. 8. Vintners, the wardens, and six persons, two messes. 9. Ironmongers, the wardens, and four persons, four messes and a half. 10. Merchant-haberdashers, the wardens, and fourteen persons, four messes and a half. 11. Salters, the wardens, and eight persons, two messes and a half. 12. Dyers, the wardens, and six persons, two messes. 13. Leathersellers, the wardens, and eight persons, three messes. 14. Pewterers, the wardens, and five persons, two messes. 15. Cutlers, the wardens and five persons, two messes. 16. Armourers, the wardens and three persons, one mess. 17. Waxchandlers, the wardens and six persons, two messes. 18. Tallow-chandlers, the wardens and three persons, two messes. 19. Shiremen, the wardens and five persons, two messes. 20. Fullers, the wardens and nine persons, two messes. 21. Sadlers, the wardens and four persons, two messes. 22. Brewers, the wardens and twelve persons, four messes. 23. Scriveners, the wardens and six persons, two messes. 24. Butchers, the wardens and seven persons, three messes. 25. Bakers, the wardens and four persons, two messes. 26. Poulterers, the wardens and one person, one mess. 27. Stationers, the wardens and two persons, one mess. 28. Inholders, the wardens and four persons, two messes. 29. Girdlers, the wardens and four persons, two messes. 30. Chirurgeons, the wardens and two persons, one mess. 31. Founders, the wardens and one person, one mess. 32. Barbers, the wardens and four persons, two messes. No Clothing. Upholders, the wardens and two persons, one mess. 34. Broiderers, the wardens and two persons, one mess. 35. Bowyers, the wardens and two persons, one mess. 36. Fletchers, the wardens and two persons, one mess. No Clothing. Turners, the wardens and two persons, one mess. 38. Cordwainers, the wardens and four persons, two messes. 39. Painters-stainers, the wardens and five persons, two messes. 40. Masons, the wardens and one person, one mess. 41. Plumbers, the wardens and two persons, one mess. 42. Carpenters, the wardens and four persons, two messes. 43. Pouch-makers, the wardens and two persons, one mess. 44. Joiners, the wardens and two persons, one mess. 45. Coopers, the wardens and one person, one mess. No Clothing. Glaziers, the wardens and two persons, one mess. No Clothing. Linendrapers, the wardens and two persons, one mess. No Clothing. Woodmongers, the wardens and two persons, one mess. 49. Curriers, the wardens and two persons, one mess. No Clothing. Foystors, the wardens and two persons, one mess. No Clothing. Grey Tanners, the wardens and two persons, one mess. 52. Tilers, the wardens and one person, one mess. 53. Weavers, the wardens and one person, one mess. 54. Blacksmiths, the wardens, and one mess. No Clothing. Lorimars, the wardens and two persons, one mess. 56. Spurriers, the wardens and two persons, one mess. 57. Wiresellers, the wardens and two persons, one mess. No Clothing. Fruiterers, the wardens and two persons, one mess. No Clothing. Farriers, the wardens and two persons, one mess. 60. Bladesmiths, the wardens and two persons, one mess.

These companies severally, at sundry times, purchased the king’s favour and license by his letters patents, to associate themselves in brotherhoods, with master and wardens for their government: many also have procured corporations, with privileges, etc.; but I read not of license by them procured for liveries to be worn, but at their governor’s discretion to appoint, as occasion asketh, some time in triumphant manner, some time more mourning like, and such liveries have they taken upon them, as well before, as since they were by license associated into brotherhoods, or corporations. For the first of these companies that I read of to be a guild, brotherhood, or fraternity, in this city, were the weavers, whose guild was confirmed by Henry II. The next fraternity, which was of St. John Baptist, time out of mind, called of tailors and linen-armourers of London; I find that King Edward I., in the 28th of his reign, confirmed that guild by the name of tailors and linen-armourers, and gave to the brethren there of authority yearly to choose unto them a governor, or master, with wardens, etc. The other companies have since purchased license of societies, brotherhoods, or corporations, in the reigns of Edward III., Richard II., Henry IV., Henry V., Henry VI., and Edward IV., etc.

SOMEWHAT OF LIVERIES WORN BY CITIZENS OF LONDON, IN TIME OF TRIUMPHS AND OTHERWAYS

1236. The 20th of Henry III., the mayor, aldermen, sheriffs, and citizens of London, rode out to meet the king and his new wife, Queen Elianor, daughter to Reymond Beringarius of Aragon, earl of Provence and Narbone. The citizens were clothed in long garments, embroidered about with gold, and silk in divers colours, their horses finely trapped, to the number of three hundred and sixty, every man bearing a golden or silver cup in his hand, the king’s trumpets before them sounding, etc., as ye may read in my _Annales_.

1300. The 29th of Edward I., the said king took to wife Margaret, sister to Philip Le Beau, king of France; they were married at Canterbury. The queen was conveyed to London, against whom the citizens to the number of six hundred rode in one livery of red and white, with the cognizances of their mysteries embroidered upon their sleeves, they received her four miles out of London, and so conveyed her to Westminster.

1415. The 3rd of Henry V., the said king arriving at Dover, the mayor of London with the aldermen and crafts-men riding in red, with hoods red and white, met with the king on the Blacke hith, coming from Eltham with his prisoners out of France.

1432. The 10th of Henry VI., he being crowned in France, returning into England, came to Eltham towards London, and the mayor of London, John Welles, the aldermen, with the commonalty, rode against him on horseback, the mayor in crimson velvet, a great velvet hat furred, a girdle of gold about his middle, and a bawdrike of gold about his neck trilling down behind him, his three henxemen, on three great coursers following him, in one suit of red, all spangled in silver, then the aldermen in gowns of scarlet, with sanguine hoods, and all the commonality of the city clothed in white gowns, and scarlet hoods, with divers cognizances embroidered on their sleeves, etc.

1485. The 1st of Henry VII., the mayor, aldermen, sheriffs, and commonality, all clothed in violet (as in a mourning colour), met the king at Shorditch, and conveyed him to Powles church, where he offered his banners.

Thus much for liveries of citizens in ancient times, both in triumphs and otherwise, may suffice, whereby may be observed, that the coverture of men’s heads was then hoods, for neither cap nor hat is spoken of, except that John Welles mayor of London to wear a hat in time of triumph, but differing from the hats lately taken in use, and now commonly worn for noblemen’s liveries. I read that Thomas earl of Lancaster in the reign of Edward II. gave at Christmas in liveries, to such as served him, a hundred and fifty-nine broad cloaths, allowing to every garment furs to fur their hoods: more near our time, there yet remaineth the counterfeits and pictures of aldermen, and others that lived in the reigns of Henry VI. and Edward IV., namely alderman Darby dwelling in Fenchurch street, over against the parish church of St. Diones, left his picture, as of an alderman, in a gown of scarlet on his back, a hood on his head, etc., as is in that house (and elsewhere) to be seen: for a further monument of those late times, men may behold the glass windows of the mayor’s court in the Guildhall above the stairs, the mayor is there pictured sitting in habit, party-coloured, and a hood on his head, his swordbearer before him with a hat or cap of maintenance: the common clerk, and other officers bare-headed, their hoods on their shoulders; and therefore I take it, that the use of square bonnets worn by noblemen, gentlemen, citizens, and others, took beginning in this realm by Henry VII. and in his time, and of further antiquity, I can see no counterfeit or other proof of use. Henry VIII. (towards his latter reign) wore a round flat cap of scarlet or of velvet, with a bruch or jewel, and a feather; divers gentlemen, courtiers, and others, did the like. The youthful citizens also took them to the new fashion of flat caps, knit of woollen yarn black, but so light, that they were obliged to tie them under their chins, for else the wind would be master over them. The use of these flat round caps so far increased (being of less price than the French bonnet) that in short time young aldermen took the wearing of them; Sir John White wore it in his mayoralty, and was the first that left example to his followers; but now the Spanish felt, or the like counterfeit, is most commonly of all men both spiritual and temporal taken to use, so that the French bonnet or square cap, and also the round or flat cap, have for the most part given place to the Spanish felt; but yet in London amongst the graver sort (I mean the liveries of companies), remaineth a memory of the hoods of old time worn by their predecessors: these hoods were worn, the roundlets upon their heads, the skirts to hang behind in their necks to keep them warm, the tippet to lie on their shoulder, or to wind about their necks, these hoods were of old time made in colours according to their gowns, which were of two colours, as red and blue, or red and purple, murrey, or as it pleased their masters and wardens to appoint to the companies; but now of late time, they have used their gowns to be all of one colour, and those of the saddest, but their hoods being made the one half of the same cloth their gowns be of, the other half remaineth red as of old time. And so I end, as wanting time to travel further in this work.

Now since that I have given you an outward view of this city, it shall not be impertinent to let you take an insight also of the same, such as a Londoner born discoursed about twenty years gone, for answer (as it seemeth) to some objections that then were made against the growing greatness thereof. The author gave it me, and therefore, howsoever I conceal his name (which itself pretendeth not), I think I may without his offence impart it to others, that they may take pleasure in the reading, as I doubt not but he did in the writing. Long may they (that list) envy, and long may we and our posterity enjoy the good estate of this city.

A DISCOURSE OF THE NAMES AND FIRST CAUSES OF THE INSTITUTION OF CITIES AND PEOPLED TOWNS AND OF THE COMMODITIES THAT DO GROW BY THE SAME; AND, NAMELY, OF THE CITY OF LONDON

WRITTEN BY WAY OF AN APOLOGY (OR DEFENCE) AGAINST THE OPINION OF SOME MEN, WHICH THINK THAT THE GREATNESS OF THAT CITY STANDETH NOT WITH THE PROFIT AND SECURITY OF THIS REALM

Cities and well-peopled places be called _Oppida_, in Latin; either _ab ope danda_, or _ab opibus_, or _ab opponendo se hostibus_. They be named also _Civitates a cöeundo_, and _urbes_, either of the word _urbare_, because the first inclosure of them was described with the draught of a plough, or else _ab orbe_, for the round compass that they at the first had.

In the Greek a city is termed πόλις, either of the word πολὺς, _multus_, or of πολεῖνω πολένεον,[306] _id est_, _habitare_, _alere_, _gubernare_.

In the Saxon (or old English) sometimes _Tun_, which we now call town, derived of the word _Tynan_, to inclose or tyne, as some yet speak. But forasmuch as that word was proper to every village and inclosed dwelling, therefore our ancestors called their walled towns _Burh_ or _Byrg_, and we now Bury and Borough, of the Greek word πύργος (as I think), which signifieth a tower or a high building.

The walls of these towns had their name of _vallum_, because at the first they were but of that earth which was cast out of the trench, or ditch, wherewith they were environed. But afterward, being made of matter more fit for defence, they were named _a muniendo mœnia_. By the etymology of these names, it may appear that common weals, cities, and towns, were at the first invented, to the end that men might lead a civil life amongst themselves, and be saved harmless against their enemies; whereupon Plato saith, “_Civitates ab initio utilitatis causa constitutæ sunt_.” Aristotle, 1. Politicorum, 2. saith, “_Civitas a natura profecta est: homo enim animal aptum est ad cœtus, et proinde civitatis origo ad viuendum, institutio ad bene viuendum refertur._” And Cicero, _lib. primo de Inventione_, in the beginning, saith, “_Fuit quoddam tempus cum in agris homines passim bestiarum more vagabantur, etc. quo quidem tempore, quidam (magnus, viz. vir et sapiens) dispersos homines in agris, et tectis silvestribus abditos, ratione quadam compulit in unum locum, atque eos in unamquamq; rem induxit utilem et honestam. Urbibus vero constitutis fidem colere, et justitiam retinere discebant, et aliis parere sua voluntate consuescebant_,” etc. The same man discourseth notably to the same effect in his Oration _Pro Sestio_, a little after the midst thereof, showing that in the life of men dispersed, _vis_, beareth all the sway; but in the civil life, _ars_ is better maintained, etc. This thing well saw King William the Conqueror, who in his laws, fol. 125, saith, “_Burgi et civitates fundata, et edificata sunt, ad tuitionem gentium et populorum Regni, et idcirco observari debent cum omni libertate, integritate et ratione_.” And his predecessors, King Ethelstane and King Canutus, in their laws, fol. 62 and 106, had commanded thus: “_Oppida instaurantur_,” etc.