CHAPTER XVIII.

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR _versus_ NORWAY.

A COMPARISON OF PLAYGROUNDS WEST AND EAST.

Before I started for Labrador I had two objects in view—I have already dealt with the first; the second was to examine very thoroughly the attractions of Newfoundland and Labrador from the point of view of the sportsman and pleasure-seeker in order that I might compare the sport to be obtained in these playgrounds of the West with that which one may expect in Norway. I was also determined to go into the question of the cost of such sport in the two continents of Europe and America.

Now, before I proceed, it would probably be as well if I were to mention such qualifications as I possess for this task and the amount of my experience and authority more or less to write upon the question, which, as I hope to show later, is one of great interest to both English and American sportsmen. I therefore give the following facts.

In 1903 I made a journey to Labrador, from where I caught the last steamer of the year, and landing at St. John’s, Newfoundland, enjoyed some magnificent sport after caribou in the early snow. In 1904 I again visited Newfoundland, and with Captain E. G. Wynyard, D.S.O., penetrated into hunting grounds which had never before been visited by white men. In 1905 I took a large elk-shooting in Norway. In 1906 I was again in Newfoundland. In 1908 I went once more to Norway, and finally, in 1910, made, with my companions, the expedition of which I have told the story in these pages.

It will be seen, therefore, that at any rate I am not writing without considerable experience of Norway, Newfoundland and Labrador.

First of all with regard to Labrador: In the old days the sport there must have been truly magnificent, as witness the following written by Captain Cartwright about the year 1775:

“Salmon innumerable were leaping in the air, and a great concourse of white bears were diving after them. Others were walking along shore, and others were going in and out of the woods.”

It was on this occasion that the gallant Captain broke his ramrod and had to fly into the woods until he could load his rifle once more.

To-day it is only in the north of Labrador that polar or, as they call them locally, “water bears” are at all numerous. Black bears, however, are very common.

Of the caribou I have already written at length; other game animals of Labrador are but infrequently met with by the hunter; the red or Barren Ground bear is probably extinct in _explored_ Labrador; and the lynx and wolf, though common enough, rarely fall to the bullet.

The gun-shooting in Labrador is often capital, willow-grouse, ptarmigan, geese, black-ducks, and many other species existing in fair numbers. I think, with a good dog, one could bag from ten to fifteen brace of willow-grouse in the many places where these birds abound. The wild fowling is less satisfactory, thanks to the senseless and criminal slaughter of nesting birds in the bad old days of the “Eggers.”

The fishing on the Labrador is excellent. The salmon, unlike those of Alaska, take the fly well and freely, and in spite of netting—an evil (thanks to the vigorous measures of Sir Edward Morris’ government) now on the decrease. At the head of Byron’s Bay the American party of Mr. Paul Rainey had grand sport in 1909, and there are many fine rivers. In some years the salmon are much earlier than others. At the right season every stream in Labrador is full of trout, and the sea-trout fishing late in the year is magnificent. In early September we had no difficulty in taking all the sea-trout we wanted.

So much, then, for the merits of the Labrador; now for her drawbacks. Beyond the difficulties of communication—difficulties already much reduced during the last year or two—the main drawback is the plague of mosquitoes; but, save on the great central plateau, they are no worse than one meets with on the Quebec rivers, or than those of northern Norway and Lapland. On the plateau the mosquitoes are truly past endurance, but there is nothing to attract sportsmen to that bleak place.

About August the 25th the mosquitoes and black-flies become very subdued, and are no longer to be reckoned even a nuisance. Indeed, the end of August and the whole of September are the ideal times for the gunner in Labrador.

[Illustration: Cut off from the World.]

The keen sportsman who goes there will thoroughly enjoy himself. He can then take both trout and sea-trout, track deer and bear in the first snow, and—if he so wishes—shoot willow-grouse rising from the low birch and alder. Above all, he will enjoy the glorious northern fall. Fortunate, indeed, is he who can spend his holiday on the Labrador, but to all, except the very keen, I say: Do not go. Labrador has great prizes to offer to the fortunate; but the risk of total failure, for the gunner, is great. For the fisherman the country is still largely a _terra incognita_, but she has many a virgin river waiting for the angler, and for him, at least, sport is certain.

And now to turn to Newfoundland. All that is good of the Labrador is true of Newfoundland also, and far more besides. Indeed, in a fairly wide experience I have never enjoyed any sport and life so greatly as I have my three autumns spent among the woods and barrens of Britain’s oldest colony.

The list of big-game obtainable in Newfoundland is Woodland caribou (the finest in the world), black bear and lynx. Some years ago a herd of moose were introduced, and the season for these is to open in 1912, but what progress the great deer have made I do not know, though I have my fears! Certainly their presence would add greatly to the charm of the Terranovan wilderness.

But to the hunter a visit to Newfoundland means the pursuit of caribou. Over her barrens and marshes, through her woods, roam vast herds of these magnificent creatures, which, since the railway bisected the country, have changed their habits and remain in districts more remote, yet easily attainable by a canoe voyage up some lovely river. Leaving the train of the Reid Company at one of twenty stations, the hunter and his guides can in a day, even in an hour, lose all trace of civilisation and, journeying on, come in due time into the sanctuary of the deer. There he can camp and, day after day, hunt such stags as he has heretofore seen only in dreams.

His license (which costs 50 dollars) allows him to shoot three, but if he be a real sportsman-naturalist—and to such alone do I address myself—that limitation will not cause him either annoyance or regret, for such a man cares not to press trigger save at the head of heads, and surely it is time in these latter days that we should be willing and glad to play a more subtle and a finer game than our ancestors, and to play that game within rules and limitations.

Modern small-bore rifles, telescope sights (if he considers the last fair) have given the hunter a monstrous advantage over the hunted, and although I have never judged a sport—as many seem to do—according to the ratio of physical exertion it requires, yet it must be recognised that to kill big-game is sometimes no longer the strenuous business it once was. Still, to obtain a magnificent head is quite difficult enough. Speaking personally—and I fear that in this chapter I must draw on my own experience or my remarks will be of no value—I would sooner shoot one caribou of fifty points than twenty smaller beasts, and, what is more, I would derive more pleasure from so doing. Again and again, in the glorious Newfoundland air, the hunter may stalk his five or more stags a day, and continue to do so for weeks before he sees the antlers which satisfy him, but he will enjoy each stalk as much as if it had ended in a kill, or, if he does not, let him stay at home and use a bigger weapon at less noble game. In 1903, in Central Newfoundland, I saw 121 stags between October 23rd and November 5th, and there is no reason why any hunter who goes far enough from the beaten track and allows himself time should not do the same to-day. Of these stags I stalked over forty to within range, and it was not always the stalk which ended in a shot that was the most enjoyable.

So much then for caribou hunting in Newfoundland. Let us compare the sport I enjoyed there in 1903 with that I obtained in Norway in 1905.

In that year I rented in the Namdalen district of Norway, the right to shoot eighteen elk, and, working really hard for twenty-one days, saw either four or five bulls—whether four or five I cannot say, as of one I got but a glimpse. I killed three and enjoyed the hunting, but to my mind the creeping through the woods after my hunter and his hound did not compare with the spying of great stags upon the Barrens a mile away or more, and the careful and exciting approach which almost invariably followed.

And now let us examine the respective expenses of a shooting-season in Norway and in Newfoundland. In this matter I will give my own figures. The season’s shooting in Norway cost me a little over £160, of which the greater portion was spent in the hire of eighteen elk-rights, whereas a longer time spent in Newfoundland cost just over £100. Of course in giving these figures, I cannot too strongly insist on the fact that the price I paid for the eighteen elk-rights was an unusually low one—I have seen them advertised in London at treble the sum for which I secured them on the spot—and also that of the eighteen rights ten were so poor that I saw no elk at all on them, while on four others I saw no bull elk. The cost of good rights is from £7 10s. to £15 each, so, as it may be thought that my case was exceptional, I may state that the hunters in that district (an excellent one) paying between them about £350, killed in all twelve bull elk, of which seven carried warrantable heads.

I do not want, however, to labour my point in regard to elk, but would ask the reader to compare the cost of reindeer shooting in Norway and in Newfoundland, for the caribou, as every one knows, is merely the new-world form of the reindeer.

The rents of private reindeer shootings vary and the good grounds are both few and far between. Consequently the prices are such as to put them beyond the scope of this comparison; but by the payment of a little over £11 to Government the foreigner may enter into competition with the local gunners—to whom the chase is free—upon certain public lands. This payment gives him the right to shoot three reindeer during the open season from September 1st to 14th, but the number of peasant meat-hunters and the comparatively small area of the ground to be hunted make any comparison between this and Newfoundland sport absurd, although the man who kills a good reindeer in Norway outwits one of the cleverest and shyest animals of the chase, and this is more than ever true since the introduction of new laws forbidding the use of small-bore and magazine rifles.

Now as to the fishermen. In Norway rents upon the famous salmon rivers are high, and even for the rivers of Arctic Lapland, Iceland and Finland a large price must be paid, and the days of Sir Hyde Parker, pioneer of Scandinavian waters, when a little money went a long way, are gone never to return.

In Newfoundland and Labrador all the fishing is free. Instead of the fishing-lodge of wood such as obtains in Norway, the angler must camp, and, though the mosquitoes and black-flies are a great drawback, they are certainly not more so than upon the rivers of far Northern Europe. An excellent fishing trip can be made to Newfoundland for £70, while similar sport could not be enjoyed in Norway for £200.

But the man who holds a brief for Norway will say “Yes, but how long does it take to get to your ground?” The answer is “very little longer than the time occupied in attaining the rivers of Northern Europe.”

The angler may start from London on Saturday, and upon the Tuesday week following may be playing his fish in the centre of Newfoundland, and this although at present the steamers are comparatively slow. St. John’s, the capital of Newfoundland, is only 1640 miles from Ireland, and could, with fast ships, be brought within four and a half days of England. Such ships would inevitably follow a large tourist traffic, and if any of the plans at present mooted materialise, Newfoundland will be recognised and enjoyed as the glorious sporting field and playing ground which it is.

In the United States, whose great cities are within easy reach by comfortable steamers of Newfoundland, the attractions of that country are beginning to be widely realised, and she is entering into rivalry with Maine and New Brunswick as the “Sanatorium of the West.”

It may be asked whether the sporting possibilities of a comparatively small island little larger than Ireland will be equal to providing good sport for many. As far as the reply is concerned, the answer to that question lies in the geography of the island. All the interior is covered with woods intersected by marshes and barrens, thus forming a sanctuary for the deer where they can breed and wander in peace. As to their continuance, take the case of the Norwegian elk as a parallel.

Fifty years ago elk were few and far between in Norway. The peasant farmers had nearly exterminated them when the Government suddenly awoke, or were awakened by the influx of British sportsmen, to the fact that in her forests and her rivers Norway possessed a great source of national wealth. Good game laws were consequently passed, and, what is more important, were enforced, with the result that the stock of elk increased to an amazing extent.

In Newfoundland the number of caribou have been estimated by various authorities at figures varying between 200,000 and half a million, and, as there are now few wolves, the deer have no foe save man. And it is not the sportsmen and the Indians who will cause any serious diminution in their numbers.

On the other hand the development of the pulp industry is now yearly taking large camps of men deeper and deeper into the interior, so that the caribou are being driven back; but this is a state of affairs with which the Government is certain to deal in good time, yet the sooner the vast potentialities of Newfoundland as a sporting field are recognised, the better for its salmon and its deer. In their continued existence Newfoundland has a wonderful asset. Those who wish to learn more of the subject, and who desire to visit the Colony should send for a copy of the Newfoundland Guide-book, edited by D. W. Prowse, now issued by the Government; and for the pamphlets published by the Reid Company, of St. John’s. These publications are entirely reliable, and a letter to the Reid Company, St. John’s, will elicit every kind of information.

Mr. Henry Blair, of St. John’s, is an agent who has engaged guides and arranged shooting and fishing trips for many well-known sportsmen, and anyone who puts himself into his capable hands may be sure of good treatment.

But beyond Newfoundland lies Labrador, and to Labrador we must once more return. For this country nothing more fortunate can be imagined than that it should be thoroughly explored. At present vast tracts remain utterly unknown. From the eastern coast thousands of great fjords run up into the land, and an explorer, choosing almost any one of these, can be upon virgin ground when he first lands. At the heads of a few of these bays a settler and his family may be found, but for the most part they are untenanted. Sometimes by one of these great water-ways or “submerged valleys” the traveller can penetrate (as we did) fifty or more miles inland. Then, if he is north of 55° lat. when he climbs from the valley, he will find himself upon the edge of a huge and bare tableland dotted with innumerable sheets of water; if he be south of that line he will enter upon a medley of woods and marshes stretching far into the interior to the very banks of the George River itself. West of the George, and between that and the Whale River, lies an area of great size and absolutely unexplored. Over this ground it is extremely improbable that, except in short excursions from the George, even the Indians have travelled. Seen from the high land on the east bank of the George, it presents the aspect of a great series of ridges rolling up to the height of land between the twin rivers of the Barrens.

But there is a journey of journeys to be accomplished. This is the crossing of Labrador in the Ungava district from West to East, from (say) the Hudson’s Bay post at Fort George, to Nain on the Atlantic coast. The distance is a little over 700 miles as the crow flies, but in all probability it would lengthen out in actual travel to twice that number, although a start might be made from the West by either the Great Whale or the Big River, if either is navigable. The hardy explorers who make such an attempt must expect to find themselves at a comparatively early date of their venture faced with an endless series of portages. Much food therefore could not be taken and the expedition would resolve itself into a prolonged attempt to live upon the natural resources of one of the most barren countries in the world. Still the men who could succeed in such a journey would have the satisfaction of performing a feat almost unparalleled in the history of exploration, the nearest approach to it being the daring Tasker journey to which I have already referred.

It is of course possible that there may be parts of the great plateau of Central Labrador which are not so devoid of life and game as those we passed over, where had it not been for the few stragglers left behind by the great caribou migration, we should have fared badly. In the river valleys, which a party travelling from West to East must make use of, there would be a good chance of killing bears. Again, somewhere upon their long trek they might meet the caribou herds. But such a meeting and such good fortune would lie upon the lap of the gods, and it is certain that hundreds of miles might provide only probabilities of ptarmigan and fish. And when travellers have to start late and camp early in order to catch (if they can) their breakfasts and their suppers, the pace of travel must decrease. Still there is the journey to be attempted, but those who set out upon it will be fortunate if they reach the East Coast. That is, provided the attempt is made in summer. In winter a party proceeding on the definite lines of Polar exploration would probably win through, but at such a season the snow would cover the natural features of the landscape, and three parts of the scientific value of the journey would be lacking.

Lately a good deal of interest has been aroused in the timber possibilities of the Labrador. In the southern localities these may, no doubt, be great, for although the growth is slow, the spruce is peculiarly adapted for the manufacture of pulp. North of Hopedale, however, great care should be exercised by intending investors, as timber exists only in the river valleys, and though at one spot trees may be found in abundance, yet less than half-a-mile away there may be none at all. North of Nain only the rivers are bordered with timber, the rest of the country being barren of all save creeping birch and alder.

I make these remarks because I can imagine nothing more fatal to the true interests of Labrador than an indiscriminate boom in her natural resources. She may have wealth, but it needs careful handling, and the failure of a few companies to realise expectations would do the country a vast amount of permanent harm, and arrest her development for a century perhaps.

And now a few final words. When first I visited Labrador in 1903 I started from England on the 23rd of August, and eventually landed at a cod-fishing station called Fanny’s Harbour, off the Labrador coast, on September 19th. There I purchased a boat, and on September 21st reached the mainland—altogether a weary journey of 29 days. On my return I had to voyage some sixty miles down the coast in an open boat in order to catch the last steamer.

But now all this is changed. The Reid Company—it seems impossible to write of either Newfoundland or Labrador without mention of them—have put on a steamer called the _Invermore_, which every eight or ten days goes up the Labrador coast from St. John’s as far as 55° north lat. This boat, before she was acquired by the Company, was a crack passenger steamer running to Ireland, so that now the traveller and the tourist can voyage up the Labrador coast with much comfort, and from the decks of a well-found steamer watch the Northern Lights waving and flickering over great and desolate spaces which as yet man has not trodden.

THE END.

INDEX.

Add River, 223.

_Adventure_, the, 5.

Africa, slaves from, 3.

Alaska, salmon fishing, 234.

Alder trees, 36, 42, 50, 53, 56, 73, 75.

Anderson, expedition, 198.

Andes, the Patagonian, 52.

Assa, Jonathan, 163.

Atkins, Edward, 15-17.

_Attacheks_, 173.

_Attijeks_, 151, 154, 160.

_Aurora_, the, 5.

Barren Ground, Caribou— Movements, 6, 193, 204-8; habits, 208-10; antlers, 210-12; compared with the Norwegian reindeer, 212-13; numbers, 214-15, 219; the fly pest, 216; curiosity, 217.

Barren Ground Indians. _See_ “Nascaupees.”

Barren Grounds River, 14, 28, 196. _See also_ “George River.”

“Barren Grounds of Northern Canada,” Warburton Pike, 197, 217.

“Barrens,” the term, 7, 8.

Bartlett, Captain, 4.

Basement Complex, the, 23.

Battle Harbour, 166.

Bayman, Bill, story of, 184-7.

Bayman, Mrs., 185, 186, 187.

Bear Ravine, 50, 53-63, 125; the journey down, 126.

Bear Ravine Torrent, 55.

Bear Valley, 50, 226.

Bears, 50, 53-4, 61. Black, 28, 55-58, 233, 235. Polar, stories of, 152-3. Red or Barren Ground, 101, 233.

Belle-isle, Straits of, 5, 131, 221.

Big-Side, 201.

Big River, 242.

Black-ducks, 233.

Black-flies, 104, 125.

Blair, Henry, 16, 241.

Blood-bird, the, 135.

Blow-flies, 104.

Blubber trade, the, 161.

Boaz, Obed, 32, 34, 35, 38, 40, 42-5; returns to Nain, 46-9.

Bonavista, Cape, 5.

Boots, as currency, 157, 186.

Brazil, 18.

Bridgman Mountains, 27, 114.

Broomfield, trapper, 205-6, 209, 214.

“Bulldogs,” Labrador, 78.

Burial, an Eskimo, 156.

Byron’s Bay, 234.

Cabot, William B., of Boston, expedition, 13, 34-5, 192, 206.

_Caches_, 124, 125, 225.

Cairns, Eskimo, 62-3.

Caligula, Emperor, a saying of, 3.

Canoe Camp, 73-4, 76, 124.

Canoe, the, cached at Bear Ravine, 125-6.

Caplin, 172.

Caribou, 28, 54, 73-4, 76, 103-6, 121. Annual killing of, 193. Barren Ground. _See that Title._ Habits, 71, 115-18. Interbreeding, 219-20. Master-Stag, the, 208. Newfoundland and Labrador compared, 116, 235-7. Number of Newfoundland, 240. Woodland, 204, 209, 211, 235.

“Carries,” 90.

Cartier, Jacques, 18.

Cartwright, Captain, 158, 178; on Labrador sport, 233.

Chicago Exhibition, 150.

Chidley, Cape, 130, 150, 162.

Children, Eskimo, eaten by dogs, 176.

Chili, 18.

Chimo, 144.

Chimo, Fort, 166, 214.

Cod-fishing, perils of, 56, 21-22.

Colonial and Continental Missions, 144.

Cook, Captain, 132.

Corte Real, 3-4, 13.

“Crossing of Greenland,” 88, 146-47.

Cumberland “screes,” 49.

Davis Bay Inlet, 197; caribou, 214.

Davis Inlet, 198, 206.

De Los Antiguos, 52.

Deep Sea Mission, the, 133, 137, 140, 145.

Deer, 90-91, 93-94, 99, 115, 120. _See also_ “Caribou.”

Deer-flies, 40.

Deer-hunts, annual, 171-72.

Doe Camp, 93-95, 99, 110.

Dogs of Labrador, 7, 33, 158-59, 165-81.

Dog-Sledge Expeditions, 30-33.

Duns, 225.

Eagles, 109.

“Eggers,” the, 234.

Eiderdown, 162.

Elk-Shooting, 233, 237-38, 240.

Elson, Mr., 11-12, 121.

England, the Moravian committee in, 142-43.

Erhardt, John, death, 130-31.

Eric the Red, 1.

Erlandson, expedition of, 27-28.

Erlandson, Lake. _See_ “Indian House Lake.”

Esquimo dogs. _See_ “Dogs of Labrador.”

Eskimos— _Characteristics._ Love of _feux-de-joie_, 19, 23, 25; faithfulness, 49; social antagonism with the Indians, 85, 197; treachery of earlier, 131; want of perseverance, 137-8; effect of civilization on, 147-50; hunters, 152-53; love of gambling, 161; limited ideas of, 163; physique, 163-64. _Customs._ Travelling, 14, 15; dog-sledging expeditions, 30-33; trout-fishing, 38, 47-48; burial, 155-56; re-marriage, 156-57; sports, 158; shopping, 162; liking for “high seal,” 162-63; deer hunts, 171-72, 208, 213-14. Killinek, of, 134-35. Makkovik, of, 19. Missionaries and the, 6, 131-133, 135-37. Nain, of, 26, 34, 36, 128, 171, 201-2. _Social Conditions._ Women, 105, 161; sickness among, 140-141; distribution, 146-47; disappearance of, 150-51; want and supply, 152; education, 153; children, 157-58, 160.

Exploits River, 17.

Fanny’s Harbour, 23, 243.

Fettes, 201.

Finland, salmon fishing in, 238.

Finland, flies of, 80, 81.

Fires, forest, 208, 213, 215, 218.

“First Crossing of Greenland,” 88, 146-47.

Fish caught on the expedition, 121.

“Fishing in the Labrador,” G. M. Gathorne-Hardy on, 221-31.

Fishing, Norwegian, 238.

Flies, Labrador bulldogs, 78. _See also_ “Mosquitoes.”

“Flood, Fell and Forest,” _quoted_, 79-82.

Flowers, Arctic, 20.

Fly-dope. _See_ “Tar.”

Ford’s Harbour, 131.

Foxes, 104, 105, 109, 118-119. Black fox, value of pelt, 184-85.

Frank’s Brook, 36.

Fraser, Captain, 30.

Fraser, Lake, 127.

Fraser River— Caribou of the, 204, 207. Fishing, 38, 221-22, 223. Journey up the, 28, 35. Upper, banks of drift wood, 41; current, 43.

Fraser Valley, 32, 34-35, 124; the cliffs, 124-25.

Fry, Rev. Mr., 158.

Gambling, Eskimo, 161.

Gathorne-Hardy, A. C., 15.

Gathorne-Hardy, G. H.: Object of the expedition, 12; incidents, 15, 19, 34, 37, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 50, 54, 55, 66, 67, 68, 70, 72, 74, 75, 76, 91, 93, 94, 96, 99-100, 103, 104, 106, 109, 114, 115, 117-19, 125-26; a disaster, 51-53; bears, 57, 58; feats of endurance and pluck, 60; rifle recovered, 127; caribou knowledge, 209, 210; fishing in the Labrador, 221-31.

Geese, 233.

George, Fort, 242.

George River, the— Exploration, 11, 14-15, 27-28, 34, 66, 241; rapids of, 13; the Indian trail, 34-35; India House Lake, 99-100; the Camp at, 101-11; raised beaches, 106-7; return plans, 112; caribou on, 193, 196, 204-7, 209, 215; the Nascaupees, 195-97.

George Valley, camp at, 101-11, 229.

Gosling, “Labrador,” 197.

Glasgow, distance to Labrador, 1-2.

Graham, Lady Helen, xv.

Grand Lake, 12.

Great Fish River, 197, 198.

Great Plateau, the, 64.

Great Whale River, 242.

Grenfell, Dr., 137, 140, 145, 178, 186; purchasing reindeer, 180-81.

Greenland, “First Crossing of Greenland,” 146-47.

Grey Plague, the, 79.

Grey Terror, 81.

Grouse, Canadian, 127.

Gulf Stream, 2.

Hamilton Inlet, 7, 13, 28, 173, 204, 219, 221.

_Harmony_, the, 2, 16, 17-19, 22-24, 25, 26, 138, 211, 222.

Harpooning, decay of, 151.

Haven, Jens, 132-33.

Hayter, 82.

Hebron, Moravian Station, 134, 150.

Height of Land, 3, 13, 113, 206.

Herjulfson, Bjarni, 1, 13.

Hernhutt, in Saxony, 129, 142.

Hettasch, Dr., 138.

“History of the Moravian Church,” Hutton, _quoted_, 133.

Hopedale— Caribou near, 206, 211, 213, 219. Dogs, 176, 177. Fishing at, 221, 222. Moravian Station at, 10, 20, 21, 22, 134, 141, 145, 150, 153, 162, 174, 177, 187, 206, 223. Timber, 243.

Hornaday, Dr. W. T., 211.

Horns, Barren-Ground, 211-12.

Hubbard, Leonidas, death, 11-12; plans, 120, 121; fishing, 230-31.

Hubbard, Mrs., “A Woman’s Way through unknown Labrador,” 12, 78; expedition, 13, 28, 106-7, 206, 209-10, 215-16, 230.

Hudson’s Bay, 13.

Hudson’s Bay Company, 2, 4, 27-28, 197, 214.

Hudson’s Bay Company’s Posts, 144, 201, 242.

Hudson’s Bay Territory, caribou, 205.

Hunter, Filipus, 31-32, 34, 35, 223.

Huskimaw, Eskimo, 147.

Husky dogs. _See_ “Dogs of Labrador.”

Hutton, “History of the Moravian Church,” 133.

Hyne, Cutcliffe, “Through Arctic Lapland,” 82-83.

Iceland history, 1; salmon fishing, 238.

Indian House Lake— Exploration of, 11, 14, 27-28, 99-113; fishing in, 106; head quarters of the Nascaupees, 195, 196; slaying of caribou, 194, 211; southern end, 108-11.

Indians: Deer hunts, 208, 211. Eskimos and the, 85, 131, 197. Iroquois, 195-96. Mic-Mac, 58. Montagnais, 27, 192-95, 197, 200-202, 213-14. Nascaupee, 27, 34, 100, 109, 114, 192-97, 202-203, 211, 213-214. Number of, 6-7, 192.

Inman, Mr., 223.

“_Innuit_” term, 149.

Intoxicants, 160.

_Invermore_, steamer, 244.

Ireland, 244.

Iroquois, the, 195-96.

Ivalomati, 83.

Jack Lane’s Bay, 9, 10, 177, 205, 214.

Jack’s Brook, 177.

Jackson, Captain, 18-19, 21, 211.

Jannasch, Mr., 138, 141.

Jersey, 18.

“Jock Scott,” 228, 230.

“_Kablunaet_” term, 149.

_Kanayuk_, 167.

Karasjok, 81.

_Kayaks_, 23, 31, 42, 44, 147, 149.

Killinek Moravian Settlement, 130, 134-35, 143, 144, 150, 151, 162.

Kipling, Rudyard, “The Truce of the Bear,” 190.

Koksoak River, 204.

Komatiks, 6, 11, 31, 141, 152, 155, 159, 168, 169, 170-71, 172, 177, 214.

Labrador— Barrens, the, 7-8. Caribou, 6. Central, 6, 13, 26, 27, 242. Climate, 2, 7, 16, 33, 123, 194. Fishing in, 239. Game supply, 120-28. History, 1-4, 98. Moravian Mission, 130-33. Seals, 5. Population, 4-6, 153. Southern, trapping, 17. Western, 13.

“Labrador,” Gosling, 197.

Labrador Bay Seals, 44.

Labrador, Newfoundland and, _versus_ Norway, 232-44.

Lake, “the big Lake,” 39, 40, 48.

Lapland— Habits of the Laps, 81. Mosquitoes, 80, 234. Salmon fishing, 238. “Through Arctic Lapland,” 82-83.

Laurentian stone of the plateau, 64.

Leh, in Tibet, 130.

Lemmings, 119.

Lenz, Rev. Mr., 20, 206, 214.

Lenz, Mrs., 20, 141.

Lewis, Reuben, 58.

Licenses, Shooting, 236.

Lisbon, Slaves, 3.

_Liveyeres_, _See_ “Settlers, White.”

London Docks, 17.

Loon, the, 90, 101.

_Lorna Doone_, the. _See_ “_Harmony_.”

Low, Dr. A. P., explorations, 13, 218.

Lucky Camp, 118-19.

Lynx, 233, 235.

McLean, John— Expedition, 13, 27-28. Nascaupees, and the, 196.

McMillan, Prof., 34.

Maine, 239.

Mackay, Lake, 217.

Makkovik— Caribou, near, 219. Description, 19-20. Eskimos of, 19. Moravian Mission, 6, 17, 134, 135, 150, 174.

Marconi Stations, 184.

Martin, Bishop, 25, 102, 138; a journey from Nain to Okak, 170; death of his son, 179.

Merrigill, Old Man, 185.

Michikamau Lake, 12, 27, 171, 206.

Mic-Mac Indians, 58.

Midnight Sun, the, 83.

Molasses, Eskimos, love of, 162.

Montagnais Indians, 7, 27, 192-95, 197, 199, 200, 201-2, 213-14.

Moody and Sankey Hymns, 154.

Moose, the, introduced into Newfoundland, 235.

Moravian Missionaries— Work among the Eskimo, 2, 4, 6, 37, 105, 148, 150, 153, 186, 195; the Author and the, 10; the station at Nain, 16, 25, 48; Board of Moravian Missions, 16; the steamer _Harmony_, 18; spread of the Missions, 129; History of the Labrador Mission, 130-33; a claim for land, 133-35; the House-father, 135, 141; object of the Store, 135-38; work supplied by, 137-38; principal of self-support, 139-40; provision for sickness, 140-41; marriage customs, 142-44; services, 154-56; the Eskimos, dependence on, 172; the education question, 189.

Morris, Sir Edward, 234.

Mosquito Glen, 62.

Mosquitoes, 22, 23, 25, 43, 62, 67-69, 70, 72, 76, 87-89, 94, 104, 118, 125, 142, 216, 234. Arctic, 38-40. Cutcliffe Hyne on, 82-83. Jersey, 78. “Kingdom of Beelzebub,” 75-85. Mrs. Hubbard on, 78. Sir Henry Pottinger, _quoted_, 79-82.

Murray, John, 12.

Museums of Norway, 213.

Nain— Moravian station at, 16, 22, 30, 34, 131, 133, 134, 140, 145, 150, 153-55, 158-59, 170, 242; arrival of the _Harmony_, 25; return of the party, 48, 49, 127; the new church, 138; oil boiling, 161; dogs of, 167-69, 176; the winter mail, 169; Eskimos of, 171, 198, 201, 202; the Mission Store, 179-200; Indians, 198; sledging parties, 205; caribou, 211, 213; timber, 243.

Nain Bay, 24, 26; fishing, 221, 223.

Nunaingoak Bay, 28, 30, 31, 37, 205, 209, 223.

_Namaycush_, 67-68, 70, 72, 76, 106, 113, 121, 221, 226-31.

Namdalen, 237.

Nansen, Fridtjof, “First Crossing of Greenland,” 88, 146-47.

Nascaupee Country, 78.

Nascaupee Indians, 7, 27, 34, 192-97, 200-203. Deer hunts, 109, 211, 213-14. Deserted teepees, 100, 114.

Nascaupee River, xiii.

New Brunswick, 239.

Newfoundland— Fishing in, 4-6, 239; caribou, 9, 204, 212, 215, 217, 218, 237; black bears, 58; sealing fleet, 88; white settlers, 153; outports population, 189; visits of the Author to, 232; cost of season’s shooting, 237.

“Newfoundland and Labrador _versus_ Norway,” 232-44.

Newfoundland Guide-book, 240.

Nokomis the Squaw, 103.

Northern diver, the, 118.

Northern Lights, 22, 67, 75, 118, 244.

North-West River, 13.

Norway— Fishing, sea-trout, 230; salmon, 238, 239. Mosquitoes of, 82, 234. “Newfoundland and Labrador _versus_ Norway,” 232-44. Shooting, elk, 233, 240; reindeer, 238; cost of a season’s shooting, 237.

Obed. _See_ “Boaz.”

Oblate Fathers, the, 194.

Okak— Hospital at, 139, 140, 145. Moravian Mission at, 25, 134, 150, 170. Sledging parties, 205.

Oksuk, grey seal, 38.

“Old Man Lane,” 177-78.

Osprey’s nest, an, 97.

Outfit for Labrador, 88-89.

Packard, Alpheus S., 13; and the mosquitoes, 78-79.

Palliser, Adm. Sir Hugh, 131-32.

“Parallel Roads of Glenroy,” 107.

Parker, Sir Hyde, 238.

Parmachenee Belles, 223, 228, 230.

“Partridges,” 184-85.

Paul’s Island, 156.

Payne, E. A., 174, 222.

Peary, work of, 4.

_Pelican_, the, 2.

Perrett, Rev. Mr., 25, 135, 138.

Perrett, Mrs., 25.

Phillips, E. Lort, 230.

Pikajulak, 37.

Pike, Warburton, “Barren Grounds of Northern Canada,” 197, 217.

Pokka, mosquitoes of, 82.

Polar current, the, 16, 18, 26.

Porter, Robert, incidents of the expedition, 17, 42, 45, 46, 47, 50, 54, 66, 70-72, 74-76, 88, 90, 94, 97, 98-100, 103, 109, 115, 117, 118, 123, 125, 127; a disaster, 51-53; bear-hunting, 55-58; portaging the canoe, 58-59, 226; return for provisions, 104-108.

Pottinger, Sir Henry, “Flood, Fell and Forest,” _quoted_, 79-82.

Poungassé, 31, 32, 41, 49-50, 171, 205.

Prae Wood, Hertfordshire, 45.

Prichard, Mrs., xv.

Primus stoves, 88.

Provisions, supply for the journey, 33, 86.

Prowse, D. W., guide-book, 240.

Ptarmigan, 66-67, 88, 92, 96, 113, 114, 119, 121, 233.

Pulp Industry, the, 240, 243.

Quebec, Caribou, 204, 218-20, 222; mosquitoes, 234.

Rainey, Paul, 234.

Raised beaches on the George River, 106-7.

Rations and provisions, 121-22.

Ravens, 101, 104.

Red Indians, 195.

Reid Newfoundland Railway Company, 215, 235-36, 240-41, 244.

Reindeer— Habits, 81. Ivory-coloured, of the Plateau, 64. Norwegian, 180-81, 212. Shooting rents, 238.

Rifles, suitable for long portage, 92; result of introduction, 151.

Roman Catholics in Labrador, 194, 196.

Rucksack _versus_ headstrap, 61.

St. Anthony, Newfoundland, 181.

St. John’s, Newfoundland, 16, 161, 232, 239, 244.

St. Lawrence, the, 7, 192.

Saguenay region, the, 204.

Salmon fishing, 221, 234; rents, 238.

Salt, Harry, 187-88.

Saltatha _quoted_, 64.

Salvation Army Hymns, 154.

Sand-flies, 78.

Sandy Camp, 86, 104, 112, 113, 121, 229.

Savage Bay, 178.

Scandinavia, fishing, 238.

Schmitt, Brother Kristian, 25-28, 30, 138, 170, 198.

Schmitt, Mrs., 198.

Sea-trout, 234.

Seal— Labrador Bay, 44. Oil, 43. Oksuk, 38.

Sealing, hardships, 5-6; modern, 151-52.

Selous, F. C., 9.

Settlers, White, means of livelihood, 182-88; population, 188-89; houses, 189-90; language, 190-91.

_Sillapaks_, 26, 154.

_Sina_, the, 169, 175.

Sisters, the Moravian, 139-42.

“Skiff,” the, 127.

Skraelings, 148.

Slave-trade, early Portuguese, 3-4.

Slippery Brook, 103, 106, 108, 229.

“Smudge,” 103.

Socialism among the Eskimo, 148-149.

Sports, Eskimo, 158.

Spruce, 97, 98, 118.

Squirrel, 43, 54.

Stewart, Rev. S. M., 135, 144-45.

_Strathcona_, the, 145.

Sundal River, Norway, 224.

Susan River, 11.

Tana River, 79, 81.

Tar and oil, Stockholm, 38, 43, 72, 76, 125.

Tasker expedition, the, 242.

“Teepees,” 100, 114, 193.

Terranovan Wilderness, 235.

“Through Arctic Lapland,” 82-83.

Tikoatokak, 28.

Tikoatokak Bay, 37, 210.

Timber in Labrador, 243.

Townley, Rev. Mr. and Mrs., 19.

Trap-boats, 30.

Trapping, 152.

Trout-fishing, 103-4, 229-31, 234; the _namaycush_, 67-68; amount caught, 121; sea-trout, 127, 221-26.

“Truce of the Bear,” 190.

Ungava, 27, 242.

Ungava Bay, 13, 106, 144-45, 166.

United States— National collection, 211. Newfoundland and the, 239.

_Virginia Lake_, steamer, 10, 147.

Voysey’s Bay, 197.

Wallace, Dillon, 11-13, 28, 121, 206.

Walrus, 151, 152.

Ward, Rowland, “Horn Measurements,” 211.

“Water Bears,” 233.

Wells, Jack, 9.

Whale meat, 43.

Whale River, 114, 241.

Whale, White, 152.

White Sea, 18.

Wiggins Expedition, 18.

“Wilkinson,” 230.

Willow-grouse, 127, 233-34.

Willows, dwarf, 97.

Windy Tickle, 10.

Wolstenholme, Cape, 130.

Wolves, 28, 90, 94-95, 213, 217, 233; habits of the Labrador, 101-102; interbreeding, 172-73.

Woodland Caribou, 204, 209, 211, 217, 218, 235.

“Woman’s Way through Unknown Labrador,” 12.

Women— Eskimo, 156-57; occupation, 161-62. Indian, 198, 202-3. Settlers in Labrador, 141.

Wynyard, Capt. E. G., D.S.O., 232.

Yellow Knives, 198.

Yukon territory, exploration, 17.

Zoar, 138.

BRADBURY, AGNEW & CO., LTD., LONDON AND TONBRIDGE.