Part 13
[Sidenote: SYRA.] Syra, like many of the Greek towns, is best seen at a distance; for it is, in reality, but an insignificant place, and there is not a respectable street in it. The houses, too, are low and dirty; and a disagreeable smell of dried fish and bad olives salutes one in every quarter. However, the inhabitants appear to be wealthy and enterprising; and at some future period it may become a large, populous, flourishing city.
_Saturday, 6th._--We started at midnight, and in the morning were off St. Nicolo, in the island of Tinos. The town is very pretty; and the house of the bishop, near the church, is a very favourable specimen of Greek domestic architecture.
[Sidenote: LADIES OF MYCONE.] After remaining here a short time, we proceeded on our course to Mycone. Several boat-loads of the natives put off to see the vessel; and on being received on board, they expressed the greatest surprise and admiration at the size and beauty of the steamer's cabin and deck. On our part, we were no less gratified with the graceful, varied costume, worn by our island visitors; one of whom, a female, was dressed in a most superb style; and being also exceedingly pretty, she set off her decorations to great advantage. Dark eyelashes overshadowed a pair of eyes, blue, soft, and beautiful as the heaven of her native clime. A shawl of parti-coloured silk was so disposed upon her head as to cover its upper part, and form a bow on the right side; while the ends hung over each ear, allowing the rich tresses of her glossy auburn hair to flow from under them unconfined. A plain loose jacket of light blue cloth covered a deep-red bodice laced close to the form; and a petticoat of the same colour, descending in ample folds to the knee, was fastened round the waist by a narrow black silk shawl. Her stockings were black, and the garters vermilion. Another lady of the party, a dark beauty, also wore a dress of rich and elegant fashion. Her hair, black as jet, was closely bound round her head, and fastened in a knot upon the crown, as one sees it arranged on the Greek statues. A thin gauze veil, ornamented at the two extremities with flowers and gold embroidery, was thrown carelessly over this elegant _coiffure_, heightening and adding new graces to a beauty it was intended to conceal. Her jacket was of green velvet braided with gold, and lined with white silk. The remainder of her dress consisted of rose-coloured silk; and a magnificent shawl, of that brilliant red and yellow pattern so common among the Greeks, encircled her waist. I believe she was the wife of the Neapolitan consul, who also fulfilled the duties of that office for half a dozen countries besides.
[Sidenote: VULGAR TOURISTS.] Proceeding next to Delos, we anchored opposite Mount Cynthus, and went on shore immediately, to visit the ruins of the theatre, and of some vast temple, built upon the ascent of that hill. Thence we passed to the Thermae, and to the ruins of the great Temple of Apollo, which cover an immense extent of ground, where capitals, columns, architraves, friezes, and cornices, lie mingled in undistinguished confusion; and from their size and number they had more the appearance of the fragments of some fallen mountain, than the remains of man's handiwork. While engaged in contemplating these stupendous ruins, the rest of the party wandered about, and saw many things which necessarily escaped my observation. But four hours only were granted us to examine one of the most interesting of the places marked down in the itinerary; and it was necessary to hurry over the scene. It really seemed, that the feelings of the generality of our tourists must be of a very low and vulgar description, thus to visit any spot consecrated by history or fable, as it were for an instant, merely to gratify the empty vanity of being able to say "Oh! _I_ have been there;" and then to hurry on towards the next object with the same heartless indifference. How different is their conduct on arriving at the busy haunts of men, which promise balls, dinners, or festas! Then, hours and days are not sufficient for the gratification of their favourite enjoyments, and every stratagem is put in practice to create delay.
Hardly one third of the passengers landed at Delos, yet five days were absolutely lost in Smyrna. The same parties who grumbled, and grudged four short hours at this isle, would have detained us as many days over the number specified in the city of figs, had they been permitted. Nor was the cool morning, or evening, freshened by the never-failing breeze, selected for going ashore; but the very hottest time of day, when on this treeless, barren, granite island, the reflection of light and heat is almost insupportable: when Apollo darts his fiercest rays on those who wander to seek his fane, and Diana was unable to offer them any cool, shady retreat which, at such an hour, she would herself have loved so well. Yonder, under the soot-imbued awning of the Francesco, sits many a listless cold-hearted being gazing without emotion,--
----"on the sacred place, Where once stood shrines and gods;"
and with no enviable feelings putting the question to him, who, with his imagination rapt on the thoughts of other days, hastens to the classic shore:--"_What is the use of running out in the sun; cannot you see those piles of stones from the deck?_"--Senseless, unfeeling, sordid, and degraded! what can have induced you to approach this consecrated land?
[Sidenote: A MODERN ANTIQUE.]There was one of our party who thought he had made a grand discovery and capture. With great labour and exertion, we carried for him to the water's edge a large block of marble, resembling a portion of a basin or font. He at once decided, that it had been some receptacle for water belonging to the temple, and resolved on carrying it to Palermo. Unfortunately, however, it was shortly afterwards recognised to be nothing more than a Turkish mortar for pounding the sulphur, nitre, and charcoal used in the manufacture of gunpowder; and on examination, there was no doubt of its being perfectly modern. "Never mind," said its proprietor; "it shall go to my palace; and there being no reason to explain what it really is only _whence_ it came, the Sicilians will admire and venerate it as a relic from Delos!"
[Sidenote: BEAUTIFUL ANCHORAGE.] _Sunday, 7th._--In the middle of the night we started for Naxos, bidding adieu to Delos over a cup "mantling with rosy wine," and with the song of sociality; thus worshipping the glorious gods of the table, as, leaving the temple of the one, we approached the spot hallowed by the worship of the other. Where, indeed, should the chorus sound more joyously than in the waters of Delos, or the sparkling wine flow faster than in the sight of Naxos?
It was a beautiful night; the moon shone with resplendent lustre, and the sea, calm and unruffled as a mountain lake, reflected all its beams, until each rippling wave became like molten silver.
Crossing from Naxos to Paros, and coasting along the latter mountainous isle, we stopped opposite the town of the same name, to discover the most convenient anchorage, for visiting the celebrated grotto. While waiting for the necessary information, several of the passengers went in search of the quarries which supplied the ancients with marble; but as, without interpreters, they could not make themselves understood, they returned unsuccessful. We, however, were fortunate in meeting with a rich proprietor, who lived opposite the grotto and village of Antiparos, and who promised to have men and torches ready for us by daylight. We then started again, and at length dropt anchor in a beautiful strait between the two islands. The greatest caution is requisite in getting to this position; the passage being extremely narrow, and the water shallow: the latter was so beautifully transparent, that each pebble on the yellow sand appeared distinctly visible, and myriads of sportive fish were seen darting in every direction from the clamorous hissing monster that invaded their quiet abode.
[Illustration: [Drawn &] Etched by G[eorge]. C[ruikshank], from a Sketch by the Author.
Grotto Antiparos.
Published by Longman & Co. April, 1835.]
[Sidenote: VISIT TO ANTIPAROS.] _Monday, 8th._--The expedition to Antiparos seemed to suit the general taste, and all were ready by the appointed hour. At four o'clock we embarked in two large country boats, and proceeding through the strait, we landed in a little bay, and found an assemblage of donkeys and guides awaiting our arrival. The distance, as we were informed, was two hours, and all being mounted, away we started on this grotto chase at a double quick step; so that in a short time many began to show symptoms of fatigue. For the first half hour the country appeared almost destitute of trees, but arriving at length
[Sidenote: MARINE PROSPECT.] on the brow of a hill, after a long and gradual ascent, a richly cultivated and finely wooded hollow, surrounded by mountains, opened upon our view. As the abrupt faces of these eminences form an insurmountable barrier on three sides of the basin just alluded to, we fancied that the grotto must be there. But no! we had to descend, cross it, and mount again towards the south, by a steep path that wound up the least precipitous side of this punchbowl. Hitherto the rock had been primitive limestone lying on gneiss, but we now came upon a thick stratum of pure limestone.
[Illustration: Drawn & Etched by George. Cruikshank, from a Sketch by the Author.
Interior of the Grotto of Antiparas.
Published by Longman & Co. April, 1835.]
[Sidenote: ENTRANCE TO THE CAVERN.] Passing over the brow of a tolerably high mountain, we found that it declined towards the south into the plain; and thence to the sea by a gentle slope. The ground was covered with myrtle and arbutus, and presented a wild but beautiful aspect. We had now nearly reached the further end of the island, where a narrow promontory extends far into the calm blue waters. Far off in the distance appeared the islands of Sikyno and Raclia, floating like huge birds upon the bosom of the waves. Close under the western shore, where the island of Paros terminates in bold perpendicular cliffs, lay the little island of Spotico; while all around, the sea bristled with rocks as far as the eye could reach. On one side of a steep path, which we were now slowly ascending, the guides pointed out a huge fissure or break in the rock, which they said was the platform in front of the grotto. At the further end of this cavern, behind a vast stalactite, reaching from the roof to the ground, and suggesting to the imagination the idea of some gigantic sentinel before the pit of Acheron, yawned a low narrow opening, the interior of which presented to the view a more than Egyptian darkness. Around this spot were assembled a band of kirtled Greeks, provided with ropes, ladders, and flambeaux. Our appearance was the signal for a general uproar: each commenced talking, screaming, and fighting for possession of the ladies, and every now and then edging in a word of French or English, by way of additional recommendation. Much time was lost in squabbling for the torches, the number of which proved to be less than that of the adventurers; and it was only fair that "first come should be first served." Those who had loitered behind complained bitterly of the deficiency in this respect; especially the chevalier d'industrie from Milan, who, being less expert with his feet than with his hands, had been one of the last to arrive. Of his adroitness with the latter, he quickly gave us a specimen; for, while one of my friends was peering into the entrance of this Acherontic cave, he very cunningly appropriated his torch; and it was not until the matter became serious, that he could be induced to restore it.
[Sidenote: PERILOUS DESCENT.] It was with feelings wrought up to a high degree of excitement, in which I believe all my companions participated, that I heard the order given to advance, when the whole party trod closely on the footsteps of the guides, who preceded us with torches. Our speed, however, soon received a check; for by the time we had advanced fifteen or twenty paces, the light of day entirely failed us. All now became enveloped in utter darkness, except a small space in front, where the tapers of our conductors, nearly extinguished by the damp and unwholesome atmosphere, emitted a pale and livid blaze, which, failing to reveal the extent and termination of this frightful cavern, produced a "darkness visible," and magnified every danger. It was a long, narrow, winding chasm, gradually increasing in the abruptness of the descent as we advanced; and the floor, that consisted of carbonate of lime, was rendered slippery as ice by the damp and the friction of the feet of those who, for the last three thousand years, have visited this extraordinary place from motives similar to our own. A single cable of no very satisfactory appearance was all we had to depend upon for support, and it chafed against the sharp, rugged, angular projections of the rocks in a fearful manner, when violently dragged from side to side by the united action of the forty individuals who clung to it. The feelings of insecurity to which this naturally gave rise were not at all diminished by the shrieks and exclamations of terror proceeding from such as lost their footing upon the polished floor, and lay struggling in ineffectual efforts to get up, without letting go the rope. My own personal safety did not so wholly occupy my attention as to prevent me from being affected with wonder and admiration at the exceeding beauty of some portions of this subterranean corridor, which glittered in the torch-light with a splendour no language can describe; for the innumerable minute crystals scattered over its surface, glowed at one moment with a deep blood-red, and at another exhibited all the different hues of the most brilliant rainbow.
[Sidenote: MELODRAMATIC SCENE.] It is hardly possible to conceive a more extraordinary spectacle than that in which I was now an actor: it was perfectly melodramatic, and would make the fortune of any minor theatre in London, though the pen of a Dante is alone equal to its description. First and foremost, were seen the Greek guides exciting us to persevere, and
[Sidenote: STRIFE OF TONGUES.] beckoning us onwards by waving the flaming torches high above their heads; and when the light flashed upon their savage countenances, wild streaming locks, and picturesque garments, as well as over the pale, stumbling, struggling crowd which followed, it required no great stretch of fancy to imagine that I saw the attendant demons of some mighty sorcerer, the inhabitant of this rocky den, deluding us onwards to destruction. The laughter, screams, and hallooing, which accompanied our efforts to maintain a hold upon the cable, our only hope of safety, united to the smoke and stench of the flambeaux, rendered the whole scene no unapt representation of Pandemonium. The Greeks shouted forth oaths, warnings, entreaties, and directions, in their native tongue: with these were intermingled, in indescribable confusion, the English "d--n," the French "sacre," the German "mein Got," the Italian "corpo di Bacco," and the gentler exclamations of certain of the fair sex who, strange to say, accompanied us in this hazardous expedition.
[Sidenote: SYMPTOMS OF ALARM.] On reaching the brink of a most frightful precipice, we were instructed to crawl down by means of some rude steps cut in the surface of a sloping buttress or inclined plane of rock, which appeared to extend to the bottom. The sight of this horrible den acted as a "pretty considerable" sedative to our enthusiasm. Each exclaimed to himself, (at least I did for one) "Can I venture?"--as he contemplated the dismal, and, to all appearance, bottomless gulf, where nothing was visible but the strange figures of our guides at a prodigious distance beneath us, clinging to the wall with one hand, while they brandished their torches with the other. However, there was little space for reflection; and though, by this time, I shrewdly suspect most of the party had pretty well "satisfied the sentiment," as Sterne says, none were heard to say so; and after a short delay we pushed on again, apparently regardless of danger. Our progress, however, became every moment more and more difficult and discouraging; for this rude and imperfect staircase, also slippery as ice, was covered with loose stones, that came rattling down on our devoted heads at every false step of those above; and many who had eagerly contested at the outset for the distinction of leading the party, would now have gladly made an inglorious retreat rearward, to escape the contusions, or something worse, with which they were momentarily threatened; convinced, with Falstaff, that "honour hath no skill in surgery."
[Sidenote: PETRIFIED GARDEN.] After remaining for a few minutes suspended from the cord, like a cluster of bees in the act of swarming, we again found ourselves on _terra firma_; and a passage behind some masses of projecting rock brought me to a platform, in front of which rose a stalagmite, admirably adapted by its position for the display of my fireworks. Accordingly I let off a blue-light, which illuminated the grotto beneath, the arches of which were of immense size; and their vast ribs, protruding from the rock, and extending to a great height, formed a magnificent dome, from which hung innumerable concretions of pointed form. Masses of crystallised limestone grew from the floor in every shape that fancy could picture. There were trees, teeth, flowers, houses, men, &c.: in short, imagination never could exhaust itself in pointing out resemblances between these phenomena, and the ordinary productions of nature and art.
The predominance of the figures of trees, plants, and flowers among these fantastical creations, gives to the whole grotto the appearance of a petrified garden; but it was no slight drawback on our gratification to find these objects covered with slime and mud, obscuring the brilliant ever-changing hues of the myriads of crystals with which they are studded, and which former travellers have alluded to in terms of admiration. It was only when the blue flame shed its beautiful light upon the scene, that it at all realised my preconceived ideas of this "Palace of the genii, the most beautiful of fairy land," as it has been frequently styled.
By a ladder fastened to the stalagmite, we descended into another frightful cavern, where on one side several dismal-looking pits, like the entrances to coal mines, and black pools of dirty, stagnant water, menaced us with death under a twofold aspect, until we reached the uneven and shelving floor of the grotto. There were several chambers, more or less resembling each other, being separated from the grand nave of this magnificent temple by the accumulation of the crystallising mass for ages.
[Sidenote: DESCRIPTION BY A NAVAL OFFICER.] It is a scene that ought to be visited by a few congenial spirits, quietly and leisurely. On the present occasion the effect and the illusion were dissipated by the glare of the torch lights, the hallooing and screaming of those present, and the thumping of hammers and blocks of stone to get fragments of the crystal. This part of the grotto is certainly the heaven, the paradise; though, of a truth, the descent into it is through purgatory; an opinion in which I am by no means singular; and in confirmation I shall beg leave to introduce a portion of the narrative of a gallant officer belonging to one of our vessels cruising in the Levant, who saw the grotto under more favourable auspices than we did; though, like the poor Frenchman, whom I shall have occasion to mention hereafter, he acknowledges that he purchased the gratification at the cost of some mortal terror.
[Sidenote: MAGNIFICENT PASSAGE.] Speaking of the deepest and most gloomy of the caverns into which we had penetrated, he says:--"I was quite disheartened at this horrible prospect, and declared I would go back, but our guides assured us there was no danger, and the rest of the company resolving to see the bottom after having come so far, I would not leave them: so we went to a corner where was placed an old slippery rotten ladder, which hung down close to the wall, and down this, one after another, we at length descended. When we reached the bottom we found ourselves at the entrance of another passage, which was indeed horrible enough; but in this there was not wanting something of beauty. It was a wide and gradual descent, at the entrance of which one of our guides seated himself, and began to slide down, telling us we must do the same. We could discover by the light of his torch that this passage was one of the noblest in the world. It was about nine feet high, seven wide, and had for its bottom a fine green glossy marble. The walls and arch of the roof, being in many places as smooth as if wrought with art, and made of a fine glittering red and white granite, supported here and there with columns of a deep blood red shining porphyry, made with the reflection of the lights an appearance not to be conceived. Our guides could here keep on each side of us; and what with the prodigious beauty and grandeur of the place, our easy travelling through it, and the diversion of now and then running over one another whether we would or not, made this the pleasantest part of the journey.
[Sidenote: EXCESSIVE TERROR.] "When we had passed about two hundred yards, we found ourselves on the brink of another very terrible precipice; but this our guides assured us was the last, and there being a very good ladder to go down by, we readily ventured. After about forty yards' walking, we were again presented by our guides with ropes, which we fastened around our waists, though not to be swung by; but only for fear of danger, as there are lakes and deep wells all the way hence on the left hand. With this precaution, we entered the last alley; and horrible work, indeed, it was to get through it. The sides and roof of the passage were of black stone, and the rocks in our way were in some places so steep, that we were forced to lie all along on our backs and slide down; and so rough, that they cut our clothes and bruised us in passing. Over our heads there were nothing but rugged black rocks, some of them looking as if they were every moment ready to fall on us; and on the left hand the light of our torches showed us continually the surfaces of dirty and miserable-looking lakes of water.