CHAPTER XVIII.

VEGETABLES--WHAT SHALL WE PLANT? HOT-BED--ITS CULTURE, ETC.

The changes which the art of the florist has produced in double and variegated flowers, are not to be compared with the effects of cultivation on vegetables which have been for ages man’s peculiar property. In their wild state, they are now scarcely recognizable.

From the Colewort, whose scanty leaves do not weigh half an ounce, come the sixty pound cabbages which are often seen in the markets. From a small, bitter root, comes the potatoes, Early Rose and Peerless, which exhibit the wondrous changes which have been wrought in them. And so on to the end of the catalogue of vegetables! What encouragement do not these facts afford to the cultivator who desires to make improvements in some classes of vegetables. If he is a benefactor to his race who can make two blades of grass grow in the place of one, surely he is one who gives to us a “Trophy” Tomato or a Brezee’s “Peerless!”

Leigh Hunt, speaking of vegetables, says:--

“What a perpetual reproduction of the marvelous is carried on by nature, and how utterly ignorant we are of the causes of the least and most disesteemed of the commonest vegetables; and what a quantity of life and beauty, and mystery, and use, and enjoyment is to be found in them, composed out of all sorts of elements, and shaped as if by the hands of fairies! What workmanship, with no apparent workman! What consummate elegance, though the result is but a radish or an onion!”

The care and oversight of the vegetable as well as the flower garden, frequently devolves upon women, and as it costs no more time and labor to grow the most choice kinds, I propose to give a selection of the varieties which are the best for home culture.

The seedsmen’s catalogues present us with numerous varieties, which appear quite bewildering, but I have long cared for home vegetables, and have learned what are the most desirable for my table.

In buying your seeds, do not depend upon those purchased from peddlers’ carts, or from country stores; they are not so certain to be pure and fresh. Seeds from selected stocks are far superior to those gathered at hap-hazard from fields and gardens. So be sure, and provide yourself with a catalogue from a reliable source, and send thither for all you may desire.

Asparagus heads the list of early vegetables; it is almost the first green thing to show itself in the spring. Conover’s Colossal is very superior to the common kinds; it will frequently send up from twenty to twenty-five stalks, as large as a man’s thumb, from one plant. But it requires high culture, and much room to do this. The plants should be set three to four feet apart each way, and be thoroughly manured, and salted in November. Early in March and April, the soil should be stirred up with a three-pronged iron hand-fork. Thus treated, you can grow Asparagus as fine as any seen in Fulton market, New York.

_Bush Beans._

The Newington Wonder and the Refugee have been my dependence; but last season I tried the Dwarf Wax--a waxen-yellow, stringless pod, and consider it far ahead of any other kind for table use. It makes a delicious dish--nearly equal to green peas. Among Pole Beans, the Lima is not surpassed by any other kind; but in northern New England the summers are too short to grow it in perfection, so I substitute the Dutch Case-knife, which is hardy and productive. Butter Beans are also very good, making the best succotash of any kind of Bean.

Giant Wax Beans will keep up the supply of string beans until frost comes; their waxy yellow, succulent pods, if stripped up in small bits, and boiled two hours, will provide a most excellent dish for the table, for many weeks.

_Beets._

Early Flat Bassano has been the earliest variety grown; but the Dark Red Egyptian Beet has proved to be ten days earlier than any other. Its color is of the deepest red, and its flavor delicious.

The Swiss Chard, or Sea-Kale Beet, is a very desirable vegetable, as its leaves can be boiled for greens all the season. The thick, white midribs of the leaves are said to be a good substitute for Asparagus. If cut frequently, the leaves keep shooting up afresh until autumn.

_Cauliflower._

The best early variety is the Early Erfurt, a compact, dwarf kind. Le Normand is of much larger growth, and later in blooming.

These vegetables should have a place in every garden, and it is vastly superior to the cabbage. Dr. Johnson, of literary fame, pronounced it the finest flower that ever bloomed.

_Cabbage._

The Early Jersey Wakefield is considered the best among the early kinds, as it rarely fails to head. Early Winningstadt is the best for intermediate use; and the Premium Flat Dutch is considered unequaled for winter use. The Green Globe Savoy is the most tender, and the finest flavored, as a general rule; the larger the head of cabbage, the coarser is its flavor.

Be sure and plant some cabbages for winter salad. They are unsurpassed for this purpose, and are far more nutritious if eaten uncooked.

_Cucumbers._

Early Russian Cluster is the earliest kind one can grow; but their flavor is not equal to the Early White Spine, and the pickles made from the latter, are superior. The Long Green Prickly is the firmest and best flavored; but will not be ready for the table as soon as the others.

_Celery._

This vegetable demands more attention. It can be easily raised by growing in rows, and blanching in ridges, if trenching is too much trouble.

Incomparable Dwarf White is the first; of a very dwarf habit, and solid. Boston Market is very fine; White Solid is also desirable for its large size, and crisp, fine flavor.

_Carrots._

One must have a bed of these for seasoning soups, and for the feathery green leaves to mingle with dishes of flowers, and vases.

Bliss’ Improved Long Orange is a great improvement on the older kinds; is better flavored, and of the richest color. Large White Belgian is fine for those who like the vegetable served like squashes.

_Corn._

Farmer’s Club Sweet possesses a delicious flavor; very tender and sweet.

Moore’s Early Concord Sweet is a new variety, obtained from crossing Crosby’s Early with Burr’s Improved, and is said to be unsurpassed by any other kind, either early or late. Trimble’s Sugar is a very fine variety for late purposes.

_Egg Plant._

Pekin New Black is a variety from China, which grows to the height of two feet, with very ornamental foliage; the fruit weighs from three to six pounds; it is very prolific, and of delicious flavor, decidedly superior to any other kind known. Seed must be sown in a hot-bed, in cold climates.

_Kohl Rabi, or Turnip-rooted Cabbage._

This vegetable is a cross between a Turnip and a Cabbage in its flavor and makes a nice dish. The Early White Vienna is the best variety.

_Lettuce._

The Early Curled Simpson is the best for spring use, and is largely grown in the neighborhood of New York. The Large Curled India is better for later use; it does not run to seed so quickly as other kinds, and will bear the sun better. The Green Paris Cos is the best of these varieties. Dickson’s “All the Year Round” is a valuable novelty.

_Melons._

Skillman’s Fine Netted takes first rank; and for later use, the White Japan, Pine Apple and Green Citron are the best.

Black Spanish Water Melon is of a thin rind, and rich flavor. Mountain Sprout is a larger and later variety.

The Long Persian, imported by Bayard Taylor, is a great acquisition to the middle and southern States; is very large and of the most delicious flavor.

Joe Johnston Water Melon is also very desirable at the south; its flesh is deep red, and remarkably rich.

_Okra._

The Improved Dwarf Green is better for home culture than the common variety usually grown; it is also earlier, and is equally productive. The green pods of this vegetable are used in making the famous “Gumbo” of the southern States; and are always desirable for every kind of soup.

_Onions._

Yellow Danvers has long held first rank for family use; but now the seedsmen offer us rare imported varieties from Italy. Early White Naples is a distinct variety, of mild flavor; often the bulbs will weigh a pound; white skins, and very tender. New Giant Rocca, of Naples, has a brown skin, delicate flavor, and bulbs were exhibited in England which weighed three and a half pounds. Large Italian Red Tripoli, flavor mild and pleasant; bulbs have grown to weigh two and a half pounds.

_Peas._

Landreth’s Extra Early is said to be the earliest for garden use, and the best. Philadelphia Extra Early is also desirable; but with some seedsmen only another name for Landreth’s. Little Gem is very dwarf, and of fine flavor; grows only one foot high. Hundred-fold, or Cook’s Favorite, is a first-class variety; early, and very prolific. Laxton’s Supreme is the earliest wrinkled pea, and has the largest pods of any kind. The Champion is a late variety, but very luxuriant, and much the best family sort raised.

_Parsnips._

A new variety of these vegetables, called the Student, is much sweeter, and pleasanter in flavor, than the older kinds.

_Potatoes._

Early Rose is as yet unsurpassed for table purposes, both in its early ripening, and its prolificness. Peerless is decidedly the best late potato in cultivation; grows a very large size, is of pearly whiteness, and very delicious flavor; it surely is the _ne plus ultra_ of Potatoes. Jersey Peach Blows are always good, but do not yield so plentifully.

_Peppers._

Sweet Mountain Peppers should be grown in every garden, to flavor the pickles. Large Bell are early and not as acrid as other kinds.

Cayenne are quite small, cone-shaped, coral-red when ripe. Good for pepper sauce.

_Radishes._

Of the Early Turnip-rooted varieties, the Scarlet olive-shaped and the White Turnip-rooted are the best. The Long Scarlet Short Top, and the Long White Naples, are the most desirable of the long-rooted sorts. The Rose-colored Chinese is good for winter forcing.

_Spinach._

This vegetable comes so early that every garden should have a bed of it. The Flanders is the most desirable kind, its leaves are the largest and the most succulent. The New Zealand Spinach thrives best during the heat of summer.

_Sweet Potatoes._

The Nansemond has been the best kind to cultivate at the north; but the Queen of the South is now considered its superior.

_Squashes._

The summer varieties are the Scolloped Bush and the Crook Neck. Of the winter, the Boston Marrow is the best early sort. Yokohama is also good; but the Hubbard excels them all, and if kept in a dry place will not decay until June.

_Tomatoes._

General Grant, Charter Oak, Crimson Cluster, and the Tilden have been held in high esteem; but last year the Trophy exceeded them all, and is expected to hold the first rank. The White Apple Tomato is of very delicious flavor, and desirable to be eaten raw.

_Turnips._

The Red Top Strap-leaved, and the White Strap-leaved are the best white-fleshed turnips, either for early summer or winter purposes.

Among the yellow-fleshed, Robertson’s Golden Ball, and Early Yellow Finland are considered the finest grained, and the most delicate flavored.

_Sweet Herbs._

A bed of Sage, Sweet Marjoram, Lavender and Caraway must not be forgotten; all of them will grow readily from seeds, if sown in beds of well-prepared garden soil. The seeds are so small, that they will not grow unless the earth is very finely pulverized.

Excepting in the middle and southern States, a hot-bed is required to start early plants, both for flower and vegetable gardens.

Boxes in the kitchen windows will do their work, but a hot-bed is by all odds the easiest method of forcing plants for early vegetables.

_Directions for Making and Planting a Hot-bed._

Horse manure is the best for this purpose, because its heating properties are more intense; cow manure will do, but the growth of the plants will not be as rapid. For a week before using it, turn it over every two or three days, and if the sun is not hot enough to cause it to ferment, pour pailsful of hot water over it, the first time it is stirred up; the next time throw out all the coarsest part of the litter. When the whole heap smokes like a river on a frosty morning, it is ready for use.

Select a southeastern exposure, where the north wind will not strike upon it; a board fence at the north is a good protection. Build up the manure two or three feet in depth, and from four to six inches longer and wider than the frame. This can be made of boards fastened tightly together, and should be higher at the back than in front, so that it will present a slanting surface. Set the frame securely into the manure, leaving enough outside to bank it up well from the frost. Add four to five inches of sandy loam, thoroughly pulverized. If it can be baked in the kitchen oven, and then sifted, it will be in a perfect condition, and no weeds will grow in it. Place the sashes over it, and let it heat up for two, three or four days, according to the warmth of the sun. Put your hand in to test the soil; if it feels warm it is ready to receive the seeds. The glass is now-a-days fitted into side sashes, lapping at the edges, without transverse sash; one pane covers the other half an inch. This gives less shade upon the plants from the sashes.

Have your papers of seeds in a basket, with little sticks split at the top to hold either the printed papers or written labels; thus, when your seeds are up, you can tell an early or a late cabbage, tomato, etc. Also have a pan of common or scouring sand, well warmed in the oven. This is to scatter over the seeds, and it will make them grow more quickly than loam.

Plant your seeds in regular rows, an inch, at least, apart. Thus planted, you need not transplant all of them, some can grow in the bed all summer. Radishes should be planted three inches apart. Scatter the warm sand over the seeds, water thoroughly with a fine rose sprinkler, with warmish water; don’t use cold at any time, always treat your plants to a slightly warm shower. Rain never falls chilly cold.

When thoroughly wet, spread newspapers all over them, and for two or three days sprinkle the seeds every night through the newspapers. This keeps the soil moist, and the seeds will sprout very quickly. In two days lettuce will show itself; and as soon as the tiny seedlings are up, the papers must be removed directly, else they will damp off. Planting in sods has been recommended for those vegetables which, having a top root, would not transplant readily. I have tried it with great success, with melons and cucumbers. Sods can be cut from the orchard around the apple trees, or from the road sides. Put them grass side down in the hot-bed, and plant the seeds in the soil clinging to their roots. Cover them with sand. Water and shade with papers. Squashes, Corn and Egg plants can be planted in the same way. The sods can be put into, or near a window in the barn, and the seeds will sprout soon. To transplant, the sods can be cut into pieces, and the plants in them placed in the holes prepared for them. For Melons and Cucumbers, they should be made very rich with manure; the grass will soon decay, and the vines will grow most rapidly.

_Transplanting._

This should always be done after sunset. If the plants are removed at this time, they will never know that they have changed their quarters. I have transplanted tomatoes, peppers, lettuce, etc., after seven o’clock in the evening, and not a leaf has wilted the next day. Rhubarb leaves are excellent to cover young plants that are planted by daylight; they are a better protection from the sun than newspapers, as they wilt, and do not blow off.

_Care of Hot-bed._

Any one can make and plant a hot-bed, but it requires more brains than a common laborer always possesses, to take care of one. One hour’s neglect at noontime will scorch every tender plant; the same time, at night, may freeze it. Every morning, noon and night, it should be visited. If the night is chilly, cover it tightly with old carpets, mattings or boards; and let them remain until the sun strikes clear and warm upon the sashes. If the morning air is warm, lift the glasses a little, and by noontime admit more air. Don’t keep the plants so warm that they will spindle up--nor so cool that they will chill. You must exercise your common sense, and thereby learn to keep just the right heat; a little experience will soon teach you how to manage the sashes. The weeds must not be allowed to grow, and on a sunny day when the sashes can be removed, pull them all up.

The _Gardener’s Monthly_ recommends the following plan for a miniature hot-bed, for raising slips in the summer time: “Get two or three boxes, eighteen inches long and ten or twelve inches wide, with a pane of glass to cover one exactly; have a hole dug deep enough, in a sunny location, to place the boxes in on a level with the ground, first taking off the bottoms of the boxes, and fitting one closely on to the other; fill up the first with fresh stable manure; in the second, place three or four inches of earth, allowing space enough between the earth and the top of the box to set in the pots and leave three or four inches of space above it; pour in a bucket of warm water, and set on the glass; let it ferment two or three days, then fill the flower pots with yellow or silver sand, and plant your cuttings; whitewash, or smear with whitening and water, the under side of the glass; set in the pots, and cover with the glass.”

Of course, some of the slips will die, and they will need to be watered daily and aired. I intend to try the process this season in raising plants for window gardening.

A dry-goods box will make a good small hot-bed. Saw off the side boards and the front one, so that the sash will slide in obliquely; put cleats on all sides to support the sash; sink two feet into the ground; fill up with fermenting manure and good sandy soil, and you will find it large enough to raise tomatoes and peppers, with a large supply of flower seeds and cuttings. An old window sash can do duty for the glass. A little ingenuity will help one greatly in making hot-beds out of little material. A good kitchen garden is a capital investment for every family. It requires labor and some brains to run it--but children will often supply the former, and the housewife must not lack the latter. It should not be left entirely to the mercies of Sambo or Patrick, unless they have been well trained in its culture. As I have said before, do not expect that women can do the hard work of a garden--but they can plant the seed, and pull the weeds--if they will not let them get the start early in the season. “_One year’s weeding makes seven years’ seeding_,” is an old but trite proverb. Hoe up the weeds when only three or four leaves at the most are visible, and the hot sun will kill them off.

Men must take care of the paths, and prepare the soil. We, of the weaker sex, can surely do the rest--_if we please so to do_. One of the finest-vegetable gardens I ever saw, was tended by a lady over sixty years of age, and so crippled, by an accident, that she could not walk without a crutch. Yet, she planted corn and cucumbers; beets and beans; potatoes and peppers; tomatoes and turnips; squashes and spinach; and her garden was always ahead of all her neighbors. She kept her beds without a weed, and her walks were as hard as if rolled--no weed dared show its tiny head long enough to mar their surface. She was a lady, delicate, refined and lovely, and her flowers and strawberries fully equaled her vegetables. Will not our fair sisters strive to imitate her example?