Part 13

Having accomplished this, you have in the next place to bore the holes from which the fire is to issue. These are to be made on opposite sides of the case at each end, and about half-an-inch from the ends of the case. I make these holes with a bradawl, beginning with a small one and finishing with one rather less than three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter. I believe the true size of the awl that I use to finish with is five thirty-seconds of an inch. I mention this because some considerable nicety is required with regard to the sizes of these holes, otherwise the Saxon will either burst or not have force enough. The compositions that I have given have reference to holes of the above size, and will not be found to succeed well with any other sized aperture. I bore these holes about half-way through the composition, and then nearly fill up the hole with some of the same composition, leaving room for the ends of the match to be pressed in. A very convenient instrument for filling up these holes after boring, also for filling up tourbillon holes and the necks of wheel or brilliant fire cases, is that represented at fig. 94, which consists of a piece of stout brass wire driven into a bradawl-handle, and having a flat end. This simple instrument will serve also to press in the ends of the quick-match which is to connect the extremities of the case.

At fig. 93 is represented the manner in which the quick-match is applied. A hole is bored at A. A piece of match is put into it and carried to the end of the case for the convenience of lighting the flyer. A piece of thin paper is pasted over the match and round the end of the flyer to keep the match in its place, and to protect it from injury and from taking fire before its time. Another hole is made at B just large enough to admit an end of quick-match. The match is inserted into this hole, and is carried on to another hole at C, bored exactly like the one at A, and at the same distance from the end of the case, but on the opposite side.

The reason for all this contrivance will be readily understood. The Chinese flyer is lighted at the match which enters the hole A. It revolves on the spindle which is passed through its centre, and in a direction opposite to that of its mouth. The composition continues to burn till it reaches the point marked B, when it communicates its fire by means of the quick-match with the other aperture at C. If the flyer be required to burn by itself, a piece of touch-paper should be pasted round the end at A, and twisted into a point. If, however, it is to be connected with other pieces, some thin paper should be used, two or three folds thick, and projecting an inch beyond the end of the case, so as to allow the communicating match from the other pieces to be tied in.

In my opinion no Saxon or Chinese flyer, single or double, used singly or in combination, should be without a colour in its centre. For this purpose colours in cases of the one-ounce size will be found sufficient. A case an inch long, independently of its clay end, will burn as long as is required. It may be fixed on in such a position as that indicated at D in fig. 3. It can either be tied on with wire or glued on, or fastened in both ways if considered necessary. It must be connected by quick-match with the end of the case which is fired first.

The colours that I recommend to be used for this purpose are those given at Nos. 21, 22, and 26, in paragraph 50. It is a good plan to fill the cases with at least two colours, if the Saxon is to be fired by itself, so that it may have a varied centre. But if the piece is to consist of more than one Saxon, then it is best to employ a separate colour, which does not change, with each. I shall say more about the construction of pieces consisting of Saxons presently, when I have described the making of what is known among pyrotechnists under the name of the

DOUBLE SAXON.

64. This, though a larger firework than the single, is quite as easily made, and is more effective. It consists of two cases attached to a wooden centre, such as is represented at fig. 95. It is simply a turned piece of light wood, having ends of such a size as will fit tightly into the Saxon cases. It is about five inches and a-half long, and four inches and a quarter between its shoulders. You can procure these in any quantity of Mr. Darby or Mr. Newman.

The cases for double Saxons are made in the same manner as described above for the single Saxons, but are of a different length. The following directions for the division of paper and board will give you cases of a size proper for double Saxons:—

Cut your 60lb. brown paper lengthwise into three equal strips, as represented at the annexed fig. 96. By this division your cases will be about seven and a-half inches in length. Your imperial board must be cut, as shown in the illustration at fig. 97, into twelve equal pieces; so that four sheets of 60lb. brown paper, and one of imperial board, will give you material enough for twelve cases, and therefore enough for six double Saxons.

[Illustration:

Fig. 96. ]

The cases are to be filled in the same way as directed above under the head of single Saxons. After placing your case upon the settle, drive in as much clay as will, when compressed, occupy a quarter of an inch, and see that it is very firm and secure. Then drive in your composition (made from one of the formulas given above) a ladleful at a time, until you have filled the case to within an inch of the end. Drive in another small quantity of clay, and you will then have three-quarters of an inch, or thereabouts, of unoccupied space at the end of the case. This is to be filled with the end of the wooden centre represented at fig. 95. When your two cases are filled, _glue them on to the centre_, taking care that they are not likely to come unfastened by any fair means. You will have no trouble in boring the central hole for these, for you buy them already bored in the right manner.

[Illustration:

Fig. 97. ]

But you will have to bore through the case to the composition, to make a vent for the fire. The holes are to be made about half-an-inch from each end, and on opposite sides, as represented at A and B in fig. 98. After boring the holes, be careful to fill them up again with some of the same composition, leaving only room enough to receive the ends of the quick-match, which should be pressed in with the little instrument represented at fig. 94. This quick-match is first to be put into the hole at A and secured there, and then carried over that end of the case and down the other side to the hole at B, where it is to be secured in the same way. Over the quick-match is to be pasted a piece of thin paper. A strip an inch wide and twenty inches long is what is required for this purpose. This strip is to be pasted all along the match. This will prevent its being injured or ignited at the wrong time.

It is hardly necessary for me to state that the same plan must be adopted with regard to the quick-match that is put to single Saxons. The paper is simply to be pasted over the match in the same way as is done in the case of tourbillons.

A wider strip of paper is next to be cut, which is to be pasted round the end A of the double Saxon, and to project beyond the end, in order to receive the quick-match from other pieces.

In order to attach a colour to the centre of these double Saxons (and they should never be used without a colour), a nail may be driven into the wooden centre, in the position indicated at C, in fig. 98, and the coloured fire case bound to the nail with a round or two of fine wire. The case at C must then be connected by quick-match with the end at A.

All the double Saxons that I have seen have been made in this manner, but there is no reason why they should not burn one end at a time, like the single Saxons. The difference will be that if both ends take fire at once, the pieces will last just half the time that they would otherwise take. The compositions that I have recommended for filling them are quite strong enough to make them revolve well, if only burning at one end; but if the two ends are arranged to burn simultaneously, a much more perfect circle of white fire is produced, and this, I presume, is the object of their always being made to burn double.

In deciding whether they shall burn singly or not, you must take into consideration the questions, How are they to be used? and, With what other pieces are they to burn? You will, no doubt, have plenty of devices of your own making into which these illuminated Saxons will enter. A very little experience will show you their effect, and teach you how long they last, and how to regulate their use.

And here let me give you a hint that you will find very useful with regard to these, and to all fireworks which can be used in combination. Whenever you ascertain the length of time that any piece—say a Roman candle, a brilliant gerbe, a Saxon, or a wheel-case—is in burning, make a note of it in a book kept for the purpose. It will save you much trouble and calculation, and will add very much to the beauty of your compound pieces, to have a written statement of the duration of any component part of them, so that you may have no excess in any particular, and that it may appear that your design has been made with judgment, and is not the result of a chance mixture of pieces.

I trust that I have left no particular unnoticed in my directions for making these single and double Saxons. If I have, I hope that the principle on which they are constructed is laid down with sufficient clearness to put the mode of its working out beyond a doubt.

SAXON WHEEL.

65. I now wish to supply a few designs for combinations in which these Saxons, together with other pieces, find a place. The first that I shall give will be that which is called a Saxon wheel. It consists of a wooden framework about three feet in diameter, having six spokes, and into three of these spokes the spindles are driven on which three double Saxons are to revolve. On the circumference of the wheel, cases are tied filled with brilliant fire made from the following formula:—

Meal-powder 4 parts. Steel filings 1 part.

These cases may be of the one-ounce size, and must burn _two_ at a time. This is easily effected by connecting the mouths of the cases, _on opposite sides of the wheel_, with quick-match, and then from the tails of these cases carrying leaders to the heads of the next two, and so on. The number of cases on the circumference is not a matter of importance. I have drawn six in the sketch at fig. 100. In the centre should be placed a single triangle wheel, the cases on which may be of the “fixed case” size, spoken of in paragraph 41, but not quite so long—five and a-half inches will be found long enough. The cases on this triangle wheel may be filled with the brilliant fire. The piece will then require—

6 one-ounce wheel-cases in brilliant fire. 3 triangle wheel-cases in brilliant fire. 3 double Saxons, illuminated with colours.

You may make this wheel perform in any manner that you choose. I may, however, suggest one order for its performance. I should first light the triangle wheel, and let its three cases expend themselves. This central triangle must revolve upon the same axis on which the larger wheel turns. Then I should advise you to fire the two connected cases on opposite sides of the large wheel, and let these convey their fire to the other cases which follow them. When four of these cases are consumed (or rather, I should say, when _two couples_ of these cases are consumed), fire the quick-match which connects the illuminated Saxons.

You will see that the central triangle is a separate piece, and will not require to be connected with the other part of the design. The Saxons must be connected by quick-match with one another, and must have a leader left by which to fire them. The outside wheel-cases must also have a leader by which they can be ignited at the proper moment. Especial care must be taken that these leaders are not too near one another, or you will probably find your whole piece ignited at one time, and not in the order which you had intended it to observe. The triangle wheel will, of course, be in front of the other wheel, and so the fire from it will not start the other pieces before their time. The best plan for igniting the Saxons at the right moment is to make a fuze to last just the time that the two first couples of wheel-cases take to burn out, and so to convey its fire to the Saxons. These fuzes are a larger sort of portfire, primed at both ends, with a quick-match leading to and from them. The fuze must be lighted by the same leader which fires the wheel-cases, and if it be only of the proper length, will when consumed pass its fire on to the Saxons at the proper time.

[Illustration: [Fleuron]]

In the sketch at fig. 100 it will be seen that the cases at A A are to burn together; those at B B will follow them; and while A A and B B are burning, the fuze at D is also burning, and should last precisely the same time. Then when C C take their fire from B B, the Saxons take their fire from the fuze at D. I hope this is intelligible. I can answer for the beauty of the design if properly carried out. You may put on the three Saxons a red, a green, and a purple fire, which will make a good contrast, and you will further improve your piece by putting a changeable colour on the centre of the triangle wheel. Put the end of the leader E in such a position that it is not ignited by the fire from the triangle.

There is also a very pretty fixed piece, of more simple construction than the above, in which you may use three single Saxons. It consists of three Saxons illuminated, and three fixed cases of brilliant fire. A fuze will be found useful in this piece as in the last, but you can do without it here. Connect the three Saxons with leaders; connect also the three fixed cases with leaders, and carry from these another leader to some point where you can conveniently light it with a portfire. Fire the Saxons (which we will suppose are single ones) and let them burn until one end of each is consumed; then fire the fixed cases of brilliant fire, which should each have a report at its end. A sketch of the shape of this piece is given at fig. 101.

SAXON SQUARE.

66. The next design that I shall give is known by the name of the Saxon square. The sketch at fig. 99 shows the form of it. It consists of a square wooden frame, used _diamond-wise_—that is with one of its _angles_ downwards, and not one of its sides downwards. The pieces required to mount it are as follows:—

8 brilliant fixed cases. 4 Saxons illuminated with colours. 1 illuminated triangle wheel for centre.

The framework may be about 30 inches square. In the centre place a brilliant illuminated triangle wheel. A _double_ triangle will be the best for this purpose, and will make the piece last longer. If the Saxons burn at both ends at once, they must be fired with the brilliant fixed cases; but if one end only burns at a time, the fixed cases may burn with the second halves of the Saxons. The fixed cases should all be reported.

Let two of the cases on the triangle wheel burn first; then let the colour in the centre of the triangle take fire, and burn with the remaining four cases; then let the first halves of the Saxons take fire when the fourth wheel-case begins, and let the brilliant cases come on with the sixth of the wheel-cases, and with the second halves of the Saxons. In this and in all other cases where a triangle, or any wheel is employed, as a centre, it must be brought well forward so that its fire will not injure any other part of the piece.

If it be thought advisable to increase slightly the size and beauty of this piece, place three brilliant fixed cases in the intervals between the Saxons instead of two, and let them be fixed so as to form a kind of Prince of Wales’s feather in each place.

[Illustration: [Fleuron]]

I now come to a design which I have used, and can, therefore, speak from experience of the beauty of its effect. I employed it at the close of an exhibition, and I can assure you that it makes no inconsiderable finale.

It consists of the following component parts:—

16 brilliant fixed cases reported. 4 double Saxons illuminated. 4 five-pointed stars.

This piece will be much better if it has a brilliant triangle, or double triangle, wheel in its centre. If a double triangle be used, it will begin first and last out through the performance of the piece. The sketch given at fig. 102 will speak for itself as to design, shape, outline, &c., &c. But I may as well suggest in this case, as I have in the others, an order for its changes, or _mutations_, as the authorities delight to call them.

I will suppose that you use a brilliant double triangle wheel in the centre. This, of course, has six small cases upon it, and should have also a colour in its centre. Fire this wheel first, and let two of its cases be consumed. Then fire the four coloured lights which are to be substituted for the five-pointed stars. Two of these coloured lights may be _green_, and two _purple_. Then when two more of the cases on the triangle are burnt out, strike in the double Saxons and the brilliant fixed cases.

This piece will, of course, take you some time to make, and will require some patience and a good deal of nicety and precision in its arrangements. But it will fully repay you for all the pains that you bestow upon its preparation. I think the colour on the double triangle wheel had better be purple; those on the Saxons red; the other four colours, as I have said, green and purple.

At fig. 103 I have drawn the wooden centre of a double Saxon to show you an easier way of fastening on your colours. You have simply to bore a hole with a small bradawl through the clay end of the coloured light case, and pass through it a piece of small soft iron or copper wire. The ends of the wire are then bent round the wooden centre, and twisted together tightly at the back.

Fig. 104 represents a settle proper for the making of Saxons. It is to be fixed or screwed into a block, such as I have drawn in the illustrations for Roman candles.

SERPENT MINES.

67. We now come to a very useful and effective feature in pyrotechnic displays, which, although rather short-lived in its performance, produces quite as much aërial decoration as any piece that can be employed. I speak of the mine, whether charged with serpents or crackers.

It would be difficult to find a better single accompaniment to the concluding piece of a small exhibition than a really good serpent mine. But these pieces need not necessarily be used as accompaniments; they may also be made up as separate pieces. Of these combinations I shall speak hereafter.

And first, for the information of those who do not know what a mine is, or what its performance is, I may say that it consists of a cylindrical box, made either of thick paper or iron; and this box contains a number of small serpents having reports; these serpents are placed in the box in such a manner that their mouths may all readily take fire at the same instant, at which instant they are blown out of the box to the height of fifty or sixty feet in the air, where they be-have themselves in a most lively and somewhat eccentric manner, until a smart pop from each brings their gambols to a close by turning their carcasses inside out.

[Illustration: [Fleuron]]

Now comes the question, “How are we to charm these little serpents into doing as we please?” The following answer to this question will, I trust, leave nothing unexplained or difficult of comprehension.

In the first place, with regard to the serpents themselves, I cannot think that you will find it worth your while to be troubled with the manufacture of them. The work is dirty, troublesome, and rather expensive, because you can do nothing without a choking apparatus proper for this purpose, and when you set in array against these disadvantages the very low price of the serpents, as you can buy them of Mr. Darby, of 98 Regent Street, Lambeth, which is, I believe, at the rate of three shillings per gross, primed and ready for use, I think you will agree with me that the best plan is to wash your hands altogether of their manufacture, and to buy them where you can depend upon their being uniformly good and reasonable in price.

These serpents are generally about two inches and three-quarters in length, and are of a very convenient size for the purpose. I will suppose that you have provided yourself with some of these, and that you want to make one of such serpent mines as can be bought at the firework shops.

The first thing for you to do is to decide upon the size of mine that you require. In my opinion, very small mines are not worth making. I should never think of putting less than _two dozen_ serpents into a mine. If you will take my advice you will determine upon one or two sizes, and keep to them; you will find this by far the most convenient plan.

The two sizes which I should recommend are those whose cases are _two inches and a-half_ and _three inches_ in diameter. The latter will discharge three dozen serpents, and will, I think, be found large enough for all purposes.