CHAPTER XXI

.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS.

_281. Your Workshop._ If possible, keep all your work, tools and apparatus in one room, and lock the door when you leave.

The work-bench may be made of an old kitchen table, or of a strong, large box. The tool chest may be made of any clean box about the size of a soap box. Shelves can be made by setting soap or starch boxes on their sides, one above the other.

_282. The tools_ needed are generally mentioned in the proper places, under the directions for construction. It is better to buy your tools as required, than to buy too many at once, some of which you may not need. If you have absolutely no tools, not even a saw or hammer, you will be obliged to buy or borrow, although a great deal can be done with a good knife. Do not be satisfied with rough-looking pieces of apparatus.

There are a few important tools needed for this work. While substitutes can be found for most of them, the boy who has access to a wood-working bench and tools will be able to do better and more rapid work than the boy who has no such tools.

283. List of tools. The following tools are needed, if rapid, accurate work is desired:

(1.) Lead pencil. (2.) A rule, divided into sixteenths for measuring. A straight foot rule will do,--cost one cent. (3.) Steel point for scratching lines on tin and copper. A stout needle-point is just the thing. (4.) An awl for making holes in wood; one that is a little less than 1/8 in. in diameter is best. (See App. 25.) (5.) A try-square with a 6 in. blade, so that you can mark out your apparatus with square corners. You can use a square-cornered box or piece of pasteboard, if you have no try-square. (6.) Chisels are very useful, but you can do wonders with a good sharp knife. (7.) Screw-driver. Do not use a good knife-blade for a screw-driver. (8.) A saw, one with teeth that are not too coarse is to be preferred. (9.) A plane is extremely useful to make your wood-work smooth and neat; but a great deal can be done with the sharp edges of broken glass, followed by a good rubbing with fine sand-paper. (10.) A brace and a set of bits may be needed in 2 or 3 cases, but nearly all of the holes can be made as in App. 25. (11.) Punches for sheet-tin, etc., will save much time. (See App. 26, 27.) For small holes in binding-posts, etc., use a flat-ended punch, 1/8 in. in diameter. You should have one 1/4 or 5/16 in. in diameter, if you make your yokes, armatures, etc., as in