Chapter 38 of 38 · 6922 words · ~35 min read

CHAPTER XXXVI

LAST DAYS IN TOKIO AND DEPARTURE FOR HOME

A WEEK before this Iwakura had sent me a present of a beautiful lacquered cabinet by way of thanks for the trouble he said I had taken in interpreting for him on various occasions, and on January 28th when I returned to Yedo I found a letter from Saméshima Seizô with presents from the Prince of Satsuma, Okubo, Yoshii and himself. The letter said: "Prince Satsuma wishes me to give you his thanks for your kindness and the trouble you have hitherto taken for his sake. He presents you the two boxes, and the rest, though a little, Okubo, Ioxy and myself present you merely to thank you for your kindness. We hope you will always keep them as our memorial." The prince's present consisted of a silver boat in the form of a peacock (called Takara-buné, or Ship of Treasures) and the lacquered stand, besides two rolls of white silk; Yoshii sent two pieces of Kiyo-midzu porcelain, and each of the others two pieces of white satin brocade. The spelling Ioxy, which is in accordance with ancient Portuguese orthography of Japanese names, shows that this letter came in English.

My translation of the sentences of the northern _daimiôs_ was published in the "Japan Herald" of January 30. This state paper completed the discomfiture of the _som-bak-ka_ diplomats, the term invented by the Japanese for application to the foreign ministers who supported the cause of the Shôgunate as far as was possible for them.

February 11 was the Japanese New Year's Day, which I passed at Yedo. Rice-cakes (_mochi_) had been prepared and decorated in proper fashion with a Seville orange and fern, and dried fronds had also been hung up in the alcove (_toko no ma_) of my study. Silk cushions had been provided for a guest and myself to sit on as we ate our _zôni_. This is a soup in which pieces of fried _mochi_ are soaked; on the first day of the year one is eaten, on the second two, on the third three. A New Year's drink called _toso_ was also provided; this is a sweet _saké_ mingled with spices; it is drunk from porcelain cups of gradually decreasing size, placed on a stand. Every member of the household came in turn to wish me a happy new year, and to thank me for the _O Sébo_, or presents given to them at the end of the year, proportioned to the respective merits of the different servants. Next evening I gave an entertainment to my Japanese escort, to which the Legation writer Ono Seigórô, Mitford's teacher Nagazawa and my household were also invited. Mitford and I sat on white brocade cushions at the head of the room, with a big lacquered brazier between us; the Japanese guests were ranged along both sides of the room and at the end. I had to apologize by way of form for sitting on a cushion, which as host I ought not to have done, under the pretence that it made my knees sore to squat on the mats. There was a great deal of stiff conversation at first, until the _saké_ was brought, and the waiting women from the restaurant that supplied the dinner, the _geishas_, Noguchi's wife and a very clever girl from Yokohama made their appearance. We had comic dances, charades, songs and the Manzai new year's dance. An immense quantity of _saké_ was drunk, and every one departed well pleased by twelve o'clock.

Alexander Siebold, who had been in France with Mimbu Taiyu, had at last arrived back in Japan, releasing me from the duties that had kept me two years longer than provided by the existing rules about leave of absence. On February 14 he and I went to call on Katsu, who had been such a valuable source of political information ever since the downfall of the Shôgunate. Katsu thought the Tokugawa rebels at Hakodaté would give in their submission. At parting he gave me his _wakizashi_ (short sword), and we separated with many mutual expressions of regret. He was quartered in an outhouse at the Ki-shiû _yashiki_, where old Takénouchi, a Ki-shiû retainer who had been our purveyor of news and papers current among the _daimiô yashikis_, was also living; we had to go into his rooms and drink a cup of tea; there I found the secretary of Daté Gorô, a distinguished Ki-shiû official, to whom I sent my farewell compliments. We got back to my house just in time to rush off again, to a dinner at the hotel, given by Higashi-Kuzé in honour of my departure. Besides Mitford, Siebold and myself, the other guests were the Prince of Bizen, the Court Noble Ohara Jijiû, Kido, Machida, Mori (afterwards known as Mori Arinori), Kanda Kôhei a professor at the School of Languages and editor of one of the recently established Yedo newspapers, and Tsudzuki Shôzô of Uwajima. It was a very pleasant party. Little Bizen greeted me very politely, said he had heard a great deal about me, but had not had a previous opportunity of meeting me, so had taken advantage of this farewell entertainment to make my acquaintance. I had the post of honour at the left of Higashi-Kuzé. After dinner they drank my health in bumpers of champagne and wished me a pleasant voyage. Every one had some commission to give me. The Japanese government wanted six expensive gold watches and chains. Tsudzuki Shôzô, who presented me with a farewell letter written in the name of old Daté, asked for a copy of Hertslet's Treaties. Besides parting gifts from the Prince of Satsuma, Okubo, Yoshii and Saméshima, I received presents from Machida, my Japanese escort men, and a host of other people, including Kido. The latter spoke to me confidentially after dinner about the advantages which would result to Japan from opening a port in Corea; not so much material as moral, by teaching the Coreans to look abroad outside their own country. Both he and Mori talked about the native Christians and asked my advice. I counselled moderate measures, and long Notes to the Foreign Ministers now and then to keep them quiet. I acknowledged the difficulty of instilling the idea of toleration into the minds of the whole Japanese people by Act of Parliament, and told them of the disabilities under which Protestants had lain in Spain until recently, but I did not see the advantage of Mori's suggestion of allotting lands in Yezo to the Christians with the free exercise of their religion. Tsudzuki confided to me as a great secret the intended visit to England of a young Bizen _karô_ named Tokura. Altogether we spent a very satisfactory evening, in spite of the long distance we had to go for our dinner.

Next day I left Yedo for good. As I passed the entrance to the barracks of the Legation mounted escort of London policemen, Inspector Peacock and the men came out to wish me a pleasant journey. Noguchi, Mitford's teacher Nagazawa and four of my Japanese guard came down the road as far as Mmé-yashiki, where we had a parting cup. Higashi-Kuzé sent me a complimentary letter, regretting my departure, and presenting me with a big lacquered cabinet as a mark of the Mikado's appreciation of all I had done to smooth diplomatic relations. Kido also wrote, asking me to communicate to him any information about Japanese affairs that I might pick up in Europe, promising to answer any letters I might send him, wishing me a fine voyage and a happy arrival in England.

On the 24th February I sailed from Yokohama in the P. and O. steamer "Ottawa," 814 tons, master Edmond. Lady Parkes also was on board on her way to England, and the English community paid her the compliment of sending out a band, which played "Home, sweet home" as the anchor was weighed. I felt the tears come into my eyes. It would be hard to say whether they were caused by the emotion that a much-loved piece of music always produces, or by regret at leaving a country where I had lived so happily for six years and a half. With me I had my faithful Aidzu _samurai_, Noguchi Tomizô.

GLOSSARY OF JAPANESE WORDS

akéni, a wicker trunk for luggage.

anata, you.

arimasu, is, there is.

ashigaru, common soldier in the service of a baron.

awabi, rocksucker, a species of univalve shell-fish, haliotis japonicus, which furnishes also mother-of-pearl.

bai-shin, arrière vassal.

baku-fu, 'military power,' term applied to the _de facto_ government by its adversaries. See p. 172.

betté, a member of the corps of guards enrolled for the protection of the foreign legations.

betté-gumi, the corps of guards, see betté.

bugiô, governor, commissioner.

cha-dai, present made to an innkeeper, which takes the place of tips to waiters and chamber-maids.

cha-no-yu, tea-drinking with an elaborate ceremonial.

chô-téki, rebel against the sovereign.

daimiô, baron, see p. 36.

denka, Highness.

doma, the pit in a theatre.

dôshin, constable.

fudai, lesser barons, vassals of the Tokugawa family, see p. 36.

gai-koku bugiô, commissioners for foreign affairs, corresponding to our Under-Secretaries of State.

gai-koku-gata, official of the department of foreign affairs.

gaimushô, ministry of foreign affairs.

Gautama, family name of the founder of Buddhism.

géba, notice to alight from horseback.

gei-sha, a female musician, employed at dinner-parties.

gijô, head of an administrative department, see p. 297 n.

gisô, a councillor acting as intermediary between the Mikado and the Tycoon, q.v.

go-ké-nin, an ordinary retainer of the Tokugawa family.

gorôjiû, the Shôgun's council, see p. 68.

goten, the palace of a _daimiô_ or baron, as distinguished from his castle.

gun-kan, army-inspector.

hakama, a pair of wide trousers.

haori, a mantle.

harakiri, self-immolation by disembowelment, described at p. 344.

hatago, charge for entertainment at an inn.

hatamoto, name of lesser vassals of the Tokugawa family, see p. 36.

heika, Majesty.

hikido kago, a palanquin with sliding doors, see p. 206.

hiraketa, civilized.

homma da, it is true.

hommaru, keep of a castle.

honjin, literally 'headquarters,' mostly used for the official inn at a posting town.

hôren, phoenix-chariot, name given to the Mikado's state palanquin.

ichibu, a silver coin, value varying from 10d to 1s 8d, according to the rate of exchange.

inkio, applied to the retired head of a family, whether noble or commoner, see p. 174.

jimbaori, war-surcoat.

jingasa, war-hat.

jinketsu, a man of mark, cleverest man.

jinrikisha, vulgo 'rickshaw,' a light carriage for one person, drawn by a man.

jin-shin fu-ori-ai, unsettlement of the popular mind.

jô-dan, elevated floor.

jô-i, expulsion of barbarians.

jô-yaku, a chief clerk.

jû-bako, consisting of a pile of open boxes for holding food, the top one of which alone has a cover.

kago, a palanquin.

kaiseijo, government school for teaching European languages.

kai-shaku, 'best man' of one who is performing _harakiri_, q.v. p. 345.

kakké, dropsy of the lower limbs.

kakurô, unceremonious appellation of the Tycoon's Council, see p. 172.

kami, title corresponding to earl, baron, when following the name of a province, but after the name of a government department equivalent to minister.

kami, English 'sire.'

kami-shimo, costume consisting of hempen trousers and mantle, worn on occasions of ceremony.

kamon, a class of barons, see p. 36.

kan-tô, rebel, traitor.

kara-yô, the Chinese style of running-hand script.

kari-ginu, gala dress of a noble.

karô, the higher class of hereditary councillors of a baron.

katakana, a Japanese syllabary, corresponding to our Roman alphabet.

kenshi, an official inspector.

kerai, retainer of a baron.

kiki-yaku, agent for the sale of a baron's produce as rent paid in kind.

kin-ô, jô-i, honouring the sovereign and expelling barbarians.

kinsatsu, gold-note, paper-money so-called.

kinshin, voluntary self-confinement in expiation of an offence.

kiôgen, farce.

kiri-bô kago, a palanquin suspended from a pole of Paulownia wood.

kô-fuku, surrender.

koku, a measure, equal to about 5 bushels, used also as a measure of land assessment, see p. 36.

kokushi, a baron whose fief comprised one or more provinces.

kôtei, Emperor, the same as the Chinese term 'hwang-ti,' see p. 163.

ko-t'ou, Chinese expression meaning to knock the forehead on the floor.

kubô-sama, title applied by the people to the Shôgun, and meaning 'civil ruler'; _sama_ is the equivalent of the French 'monsieur,' see p. 172.

kumi-gashira, vice-governor.

kurô, trouble, used in the sense of 'thank you.'

kwambaku, Grand Vizier, see p. 152.

kwanrei, administrator for the Shôgun, see p. 38.

machi-kata, municipal officer.

mae-daré, apron.

metsuké, an official with no administrative functions, whose duty was to report, if necessary, on the proceedings of others, variously translated, see pp. 23, 122, 245, 272.

Mikado, the ancient title of the Japanese sovereign.

mikoshi, a god's litter carried in religious pageants.

mirin, a sweet liquor brewed from rice.

miso, a paste made from a bean called _ko-mamé_, and used chiefly in the preparation of soup.

mochi, a cake made of glutinous rice.

mokusa-muri, lacquered articles showing a sea-weed pattern.

naga-bô, long pole, used to denote a palanquin with an extra long pole.

nanko, name of a game, see p. 390.

nanushi, mayor.

Nippon, same as Nihon, the Japanese word which we have corrupted into Japan.

nôshi, a noble's court dress.

nô-yakusha, actor of the classical drama, see p. 397.

ôbiroma, hall of audience.

ohaguro, a dye composed of galls and sulphate of iron, used for staining the teeth.

ohiruyasumi, midday rest; _o_ is an honorific prefix.

okoyasumi, a slight rest.

oku-go-yû-hitsu, an official private secretary.

ometsuké, see _metsuké_; _o_ is the honorific prefix.

ô-metsuké, a chief _metsuké_, q.v.; _ô_, chief.

onna-gochiso, an entertainment at which women were employed to amuse the guests.

on-ye-riû, a Japanese style of running-hand script.

o-shiro-jô-in, a hall in the Tycoon's palace inside the castle.

o yasumi nasai, 'good-night,' literally 'be pleased to repose.'

peggi, corruption of a Malay word, used in Japan in the sense of 'go away.'

rambô-rôzéki, disturbance and violence, see p. 159.

rei-hei-shi, name of an envoy sent by the Mikado to worship at the tomb of Iyéyasu at Nikkô.

riô, a Japanese coin of account, formerly equivalent to about 1-1/3 Mexican dollar.

riô-gaké, a pair of wicker-trunks for luggage, suspended from the opposite ends of a pole carried on the shoulder.

rô-jiû, councillors of the Shôgun, see pp. 39 and 69.

rônin, a run-away retainer of a baron, see p. 78.

rusui, a person left in charge of an establishment during the absence of the owner or master.

sakana, food taken with liquor; as it chiefly consists of fish, it is often used in the sense of 'fish' as a food.

saké, a light liquor brewed from rice, mostly drunk mulled.

sakuron, 'a political discussion,' see p. 300.

samurai, a member of the military class, entitled to wear a pair of swords, a longer and a shorter one, the latter being an over-grown dirk.

sanyo, councillor, see p. 297.

sarampan, corruption of a Malay word used in Japan in the sense of 'break,' 'broken.'

sazai, a shell-fish named Turbo cornutus; the shell also furnishes mother-of-pearl.

sei-i-tai-Shôgun, the full title of the Tycoon or Shôgun, see p. 174.

seishi, herald, harbinger.

sengaré, a familiar word meaning son, and used only by the father in speaking of him.

sessha, a self-depreciatory word used for the pronoun of the 1st person.

shibori, a kind of crape resembling the Indian bandhanna.

shibukami, thick paper rendered tough by being soaked in the juice of the unripe persimmon fruit.

shinsen-gumi, a body of armed _samurai_ or two-sworded men, recently raised.

shirabé-yaku, director in an administrative department.

shishinden, name of the Emperor's hall of audience.

shiro-in, private drawing-room.

shisetsu, literally 'purple snow,' a patent medicine.

shitaniro, down!

Shôgun, the _de facto_ ruler of Japan when it was opened to foreign trade in 1859, see p. 33. By foreigners he was usually called 'the Tycoon,' which means 'great prince,' a title properly belonging to the sovereign. It seems to have been originally used in diplomatic correspondence with Korea; see also p. 163.

sô-kwai-sho, municipal office.

sôsai, chief minister, see p. 300.

shugo-shoku, office of the guardian of the Mikado's person, see p. 295.

shuku-yakunin, alderman of a posting-station.

shussei, administrator, minister.

tai, Serranus marginalis, sometimes called sea-bream.

taikomochi, a professional jester.

tatéba, a halfway tea-house between two posting-stations.

tengu-ren, 'goblin-band,' name assumed by a society of seditious men of the military class.

tenshi, the central tower rising from the keep of a castle.

tensô, an official whose duty it was to report to the Mikado the decisions of the Shôgun.

tobayé, caricature.

tokonoma, the shallow recess or alcove in a room, originally the bedplace; in front of it was the place of honour.

Tô-kai-dô, properly speaking the row of provinces along the coast between Ozaka and Yedo, but also applied to the high road from Kiôto to Yedo.

toso, a new-year's drink, see p. 409.

tozama, descendants of barons who had submitted to the supremacy of Iyéyasu, see p. 36.

tsutsushindé oru, used to express the retirement of a personage in order to signify his acknowledgment that he has committed an offence against his superior.

Tycoon, see Shôgun.

utai, the classical drama of Japan.

wakizashi, the short sword or dirk worn alongside of the fighting sword by a member of the military class, and not laid aside within doors as the other is.

wasabi, Eutrema wasabi, root of a plant belonging to the same order as horse-radish.

yakata-buné, house-boat.

yaku-biô, official indisposition.

yakunin, official.

yamato-nishiki, cotton brocade.

yashiki, the hotel of a baron or lesser noble, also at trading centres the depôt for the sale of a baron's produce received as payment of rent or taxes in kind.

Yedo, the original name of Tôkiô, the seat of government.

yogi, large stuffed bed-gown, used as a coverlet.

yônin, hereditary councillor of a baron, of lower rank than _karô_, q.v.

yû-geki-tai, literally 'brave fighting-men,' see p. 299.

yukata, a cotton bathing-gown.

zoku-miô, the name borne by a male child until adolescence.

zôni, a soup eaten at New Year, see p. 409.

INDEX

Abé Bungo no Kami, 147.

Adams, F. O., 29.

Adventure with a Tosa man, 352.

Aikawa, 234.

Ainos, The, 402.

Alcock, Sir R., 28, 29, 47, 93, 132, 134.

Alexander, Capt., 103.

Alford, Bp., 391.

Allen, H. J., 18.

American guards, 324.

American missionaries, 22.

American sailor shot, 319.

Americans, 42.

Anatomical models, 270.

Archaic Japanese, notification in, 306.

Arigawa Yakuro, 149.

Arimatsu, 215.

Ashigaru, The, 37.

Aspinall, Cornes & Co., 27.

Atami, 194.

Attack on the Foreign Officials, 359.

Attack on the French, 314.

Attacks on _Yashikis_, 308.

"Attitude of respectful attention," 124.

Audience Chamber, The Mikado's, 358.

Audience with the Shôgun, 199.

Awa, 257.

Awa Clan, The, 249.

Awa no Kami, 261.

Babies, Samurai, 175.

_Bakufu_, 128, 174, 279.

Banquet, A, 371.

Barnet & Co., 27.

Barons, 36.

Baths, Japanese, 211.

Batteries, Japanese, 118.

Bedrooms, Japanese, 187.

Bird, Lieut., Murder of, 135.

Bizen Affair, The, 319, 325, 327, 337.

Bombardment of Kagoshima, 87.

Bombardment of Shimonoséki, 105.

Boyes, D. G., V.C., 112.

Borradaile, Mrs., Attack on, 51, 84.

Brandt, Max von, 67.

"Brass caps" and marks of rank, 69.

Brown, Rev. S. R., 50, 55.

Bruce, Sir F., 20.

Capital punishment, 137.

Camus, Murder of, 90.

Candidates, Qualities of, 18.

Cash, Value of, 195.

Castle of Ozaka, Burning of the, 316.

Castle of the Shôgun, 199.

Chinese as an aid to Japanese, 18.

Chinese, Studying, 18.

Chi-on-in Buddhist Monastery, 356.

Chôshiû, 99, 119; indemnity, 125, 326.

Chôshiû and Aidzu, 121.

Chôshiû Clan, The, 90, 93.

Chôshiû and the Mikado, 96, 98.

Chôshiû, Peace with, 116.

Chôshiû, The Prince of, 371.

Christianity, Edict against, 368.

Christianity and Magic, 369.

Civil Wars, 85.

Classes, Division of, 40.

Coalition, A, 286.

Coin and Currency, 25.

Competitive Examinations, Value of, 18.

Conference at Ozaka, 372.

Constitutions, Framed and Issued, 377.

Convention with France, 100.

Convivial Evening, A, 215.

Coolies, 195.

Corvée, System of, 195.

"Court and Capital of the Tycoon," Sir R. Alcock's, 204.

Court Language, 306.

Custom House Officials, 23.

Daimiôs, The, 36.

Daimiôs, Curtailing the Power of the, 326, 328.

Daimiôs and Mikado, 77.

Daishôji, 245.

Dancing Girls, 192.

Daté, 351.

Deferred Audience with the Mikado, 362.

Dent & Co., 27.

Dining with the Shôgun, 200.

Dinner, An English, 258.

Dinner, A Japanese, 178.

Diplomatic Assembly, A, 304.

Discourtesy, Acts of, 213.

Doctors, Personal Risks of, 31.

Document, An Important, 324.

Domestic Attendants, 282.

"Drunken Old Man," 270.

Dutch, The, 41.

Dutch Language as a Medium, 23, 58.

Early Impressions, 17.

Earthquakes, 60.

Echizen Clan, Cool Reception by, 245.

English Policy, 178, 257.

Entertaining, Japanese, 228.

Entertainment, An Evening, 352.

European Dinner, A, 131, 173.

Etchiû, Mts. of, 235.

Etiquette, 228, 259.

Exchange, Rate of, 26.

Execution of Murderers, 137.

Expulsion of Foreigners, Order for the, 117, 121.

Ferry at Yokohama, 50.

Ferryman, An Obdurate, 161.

Feudal System in Japan, 36.

Fire at Yokohama, Destructive, 161.

Fish Traps, 209.

Fisher, Col., 29.

Fletcher & Co., 27.

Flight from the Legation, 313.

Forbidden Books, 68.

Foreign Residents, Conditions, 337.

Foreign Settlement, The, 24.

French Policy, 178, 277, 323, 326, 366.

French Support of the Tycoon, 173.

Fuchiu, 223, 246.

Fuji Kawa, 225.

Fuji yama, 224.

Fukui, 246.

Fushimi, 356.

Fushimi, Troops at, 310.

Fushimi, A Visit to, 203.

Gardens, 62.

Gardner, C. T., 18.

Gibson, Vice-C., 20.

Godai, 86.

Gold Mines, 235.

Gorôjiû, or Shôgun's Council, The, 68, 174.

Gotenyama, 65.

Gotô, 265, 267, 287.

"Governors," 292.

Governors of Foreign Affairs, 69.

Gubbins, J. H., 283.

Guardhouses, 128, 194.

Guards, Personal, 66.

Guide Books, Japanese, 204.

"Gun-boat" Policy, 20.

Guns, Japanese, 109, 118.

Hakodaté, 22.

Hakodaté, Capture of, 398.

Hakoné, 194, 226.

Hamamatsu, Reception at, 217.

Hamana Bay, 217.

Harakiri, 345.

Harris, Mr., 45.

Heated Discussions, 398.

Hepburn, Dr. J. C., 50.

Higashi-Kuzé, 324.

High Roads, The, 160.

Highway Barriers, 160.

Higo Clan, The, 381.

Himéshima, 95, 97.

Hiôgo, 144, 149, 154, 169, 180, 185.

Hiôgo, Transference to, 317.

Hirayama, 257, 265.

"History of Japan," by F. O. Adams, 361.

Hoey, 56.

Hôki no Kami, 154.

Hosokawa Riônosuké, 279.

Hospital, Visit to a, 388.

Hospitality, Princely, 262.

Hotel Charges, 195.

House, A Japanese, 281.

Houseboat, Travelling in a, 207.

Houses, Uncomfortable, 64.

"Hundred Laws of Iyéyasu," The, 68.

_Ichibu_, The, 25.

Ijichi Shôji, 85, 333.

Iki no Kami, 283.

_In-kio_, 176.

Indemnities and Penalties for Murder, 72, 80, 143.

Indemnity from Chôshiû, 125.

Indemnity for Murder of French Sailors, 353.

Indemnity paid by Satsuma, 91.

Inn Charges, 208.

Inouyé Bunda, 190.

Interpreting and Translating, 198.

Introductions, 229.

Itô Constitution, The, 377.

Itô as Governor of Kôbé, 327.

Itô, 130, 276.

Itô and Inouyé, 95.

Itô and Shiji, 97, 98.

Itô's European Dinner, 131.

Iwakura, 357, 404.

Iyémitsu, 39, 65.

Iyéyasu, 35.

Jamieson, R. A., 18.

Japan: First Impressions 21, Mikado and Shôgun 33, Literature 34, Civil Wars 35, Feudal System 36, Daimiôs 37, Decline of Mikado's Power 38, Shôgunate 38, Divisions of Classes 40, Intercourse with Europe 40, Religious Persecution 41, Americans 42, Treaties 43, Decline of the Shôgun 45, Murders, 46, 51, Written Language 58, the Tôkaidô 59, Earthquakes 60, Yedo 61, Tea-gardens 62, Temples 63, Houses 64, the _Rônin_ 78, Bombardment of Kagoshima 88, Convention with France 100, Bombardment of Shimonoséki 108, Order for Expulsion of Foreigners 117, 121, Treaty with Chôshiû 127, Double Dealing of the Tycoon's Party 131, Squadron at Ozaka 161, Mikado's Consent to Treaties 153, Fire at Yokohama 161, Death of Mikado 186, Travelling 211, Guilds 256, Abdication of the Shôgun 282, Deposition of the Tycoon 299, Civil War 319, Suppression of the _Daimiôs_ 326.

Japan, Appointed to, 17.

"Japan Times," The, 154.

Japanese Caligraphy, 58.

Japanese, Difficulties in the Study of, 55.

Japanese Secretary, Promotion to, 294.

Japanese Wounded, Treatment of, 332.

Jardine, Matheson and Co., 27.

"Jester of the Foreign Department," 327.

Jinrikisha, The, 213.

Josling, Capt., Death of, 87.

Journalism, 159.

June Constitution, Translating the, 381.

Kaempfer, 33.

Kaga Clan, The, 244.

Kagoshima, 84, Bombardment 87, 170.

Kai-yen-tai Society, The, 272.

_Kaiyô-Maru_, The, 402.

Kajiwara, 191.

_Kaku-rô_, 174.

Kanagawa, 23.

Kanaiwa, 243.

Kanazawa, 240.

_Karô_, or Hereditary Councillor, 116.

Katsu, A Visit to, 387.

Katsura Kogorô, 172, 271.

Kawakatsu Omi, 378.

Keiki, 283.

Keiki deposed, 300.

Keiki's Flight from Ozaka, 318.

Keiki, Terms to, 365.

Keisaburô, Prince of Mito, 383.

Kidzukawa, R., 356.

Kiôto, 121, 325, 332, 367.

Kneeling to Daimiôs, 212.

Kobayashi Kotarô, 71.

Kôbé, Fêtes at, 286.

Kôchi Bay, 268.

Kokura, 130.

Komatsu, 188.

Küper, Admiral, 52, 79.

Kurazawa, 225.

Kusatsu, 210.

Kwai-wa Hen, 196.

Kwambaku, The, 189.

Land, Feudal Sub-division of, 87.

Legation Officials, 30.

Legation Residences, 65, Destroyed 71.

Letter to Okubo Ichizô, 253.

Letters of Credence, 369.

Lindau, Rudolf, "Open Letter" of, 77.

Literature of Japan, 34.

Locomotion, Odd Methods of, 213.

London Agreement of 1862, 154.

Macpherson, Marshall & Co., 27.

Maeda Mura, 130.

Mamiya Hajimé, 142.

Marco Polo, 33.

Marshall & Clarke, 84.

Matsudaira Kansô, 253.

Matsugi Kôwan, 86.

Matsuki, 188.

Mayéno, A Centre of Tea Production, 211.

"Memories" by Lord Redesdale, 360.

Mermet, M., 146, 152.

Mexican Dollars, 26.

Milne, Prof. J., 60.

Mikado, The, 371.

Mikado, Audience with the, 358.

Mikado and Shôgun, 33.

Mikado and Tycoon, 157.

Mikado's Birthday, The, 386.

Mikado's Consent to Treaties, 153.

Mikado and the Treaties, 324, 327.

Mikado's Reception, The, 370.

Moji Point, 130.

Monasteries as Residences, 197.

"Monitor," U.S., 101.

Monriô-In, Monastery, 196.

Môri, 120.

Morrison, G. C., Attack on, 28.

Murder of Baldwin and Bird, 135.

Murder of Foreigners, 46.

Murder of Sailors, 251, 265-266, 287.

Murderous Plan, A, 290.

Music, Japanese, 193.

Mission to Great Britain, 100.

Mita, A Yashiki in, 196.

Mitford's Linguistic Powers, 285.

Mito Clan, The, 383.

Mito, ex-Prince, 44.

Mitsuké, 218.

Nagasaki, 22, 168.

Nagoya, 214.

Nakai, A Visit to, 379.

Nakasendô Road, The, 204.

Nanao, 235.

_Nankai_, The, 265.

Nanko, The Game, 390.

Navy, Organising the, 231.

Neale, Col., 29, 47, 53, 70, 78, 79, 81, 93.

Nei, Harbour of, 258.

Neutrality of the Western Powers, 331.

Neutrality, A Question of, 405.

New Year's Day, Japanese, 409.

Newspapers, Japanese, 366.

Night Attack, A, 220.

Niigata, Port, 202, 231, 232.

Niiro, 174.

Niiro Giôbu, 273.

Nocturnal Escapades, 200.

Noguchi Tomizô, 170, 176.

"Notes," Official, 81.

Official Correspondence, 256.

Official Inn, An, 210.

Official Interview, An, 69.

"Official Sickness," 150.

Official Visits, 357.

Ogasawara, 80.

Oi-gawa, Crossing the, 222.

Oiwaké, 209.

Oji, Tea-house at, 66.

Oliphant, L., Attack on, 28.

Omnibus, Native, 213.

Oshima, 367.

Ota Nobunaga, 35.

Outrages in Yokohama, 75, 76.

Overland Journey, An, 206.

Owari Officials, Dilatory, 356.

Oyama, Field-Marshal, 332.

Ozaka, 285.

Ozaka, Arrival of Deposed Tycoon, 299.

Ozaka, Destruction of the Castle of, 333.

Ozaka, Fêtes at, 286.

Ozaka, Life in, 201.

Ozaka, Legation at, 197.

Ozaka, Squadron for, 143, 145, 148, 187.

Palanquin, Travelling by, 227.

Palanquins, 206.

Paper Money, Difficulties with, 393, 395.

Parkes, Sir H., 141, 154, 198, 231, 233, 257, 260, 267, 301, 303, 315, 332, 352, 371, 398.

Peking, At, 18, 19.

"Pernicious" Sects, 368.

Perry, Commodore, 42.

Pilfering by Sailors, 323.

Pipes, Japanese, 208.

Plays, Tragic and Comic, 396.

Plays, Private, 262.

Plum-tree, Japanese, 62.

Portuguese, The, 41.

"Prairie" Book, The, 369.

Precedence, A Question of, 301, 303.

Presents, 191, 229, 261.

Prizes, 87.

Procession, A, 391.

Procrastination and Prevarication, 76, 79.

Pruyn, Gen., 28.

Public Roads, 186.

_Racehorse_, Grounding of the, 88.

Rapid Travelling, 226.

Reforms, Proposed, 284.

_Rei-hei-shi_, The, 218.

Religious Persecution, 41, 275.

Ren-kô-ji, Buddhist Temple, 161.

Resignation of the Shôgun, 282.

Restrictions and Prohibitions, Personal, 67.

Retainers, 37.

Review, A, 158, 263.

Revolt of 1638, 41.

Richardson, Murder of, 51.

Richardson, Indemnity for the Murder of, 91.

Roads, Main, 204.

Robertson, R. B., 32.

Robertson, Russell, 278.

Roches, M., Policy of, 197, 353.

Roman Catholics, 40.

_Rônin_, The, 78.

Russell, Lord John, 134.

Russians, The, 41.

Sado, Island of, 234.

Saigô, 181, 200.

Sakai, Murder of French at, 351.

Saké, 62.

Salary of Interpreter, 157.

Samurai, The, 25, 37, 46, 47, 53, 60, 79, 91, 96, 98, 126, 129, 157, 175, 327.

Satsuma People, The, 174.

Satsuma, Prince of, 72, 84, 336.

Schools of Philosophy, 277.

Sea-Fight, A, 309.

Sékigahara, Battle of, 36.

Sen-gaku-ji, 156, 165.

_Sengaré_, 176.

Shibayama, Tragedy of, 196.

Shimadzu Saburô, 52.

Shimadzu Sachiu, 150.

Shimidzu Seiji, 137, 138.

Shimmei Maye, 68.

Shimonoséki, 93, 102, 105.

Shiraishi Shimôsa no Kami, 232.

Shitotsubashi, 167, 173, 175, 181, 186.

Shiwo, 240.

Shôgun, Abdication of the, 282.

Shôgun and Foreign Representatives, 199.

Shôgun, Status of, 197.

Shôgunate, The, 38.

Shôguns, The, 35.

Shooting Competition, A, 177.

Smith, "Public-spirited," 32.

Sô-koku-ji, Hospitality at, 336.

Squadron at Yokohama, The, 73.

_Stonewall Jackson_, The, 404.

Stronach, W. G., 18.

"Swamp," The, 25.

Taicosama, 35.

Takaoka, 58.

Takao-zan, Incident at, 160.

Takasai Tanzan, 58.

_Taka-yashiki_, 281.

Tanabata, Feast of, 233.

Tea-firing Establishments, 209.

Tea-houses, 66.

"Tea-money," 215.

"Teachers," Native, 56.

Temples, 63.

Tenriû-gawa, The, 218.

Theatre at Yokohama, 50.

Threats, 287.

Throne Room, The, 370.

Time, Japanese, 229.

Titles, The Question of, 197, 329.

Titles in Treaties, A Question of, 165.

Tôkaidô, The, 23, 204.

Tôkaidô, Guard Houses on the, 59.

Tokaku, Reception at, 289.

Tokugawa Pirates, The, 395.

Tokugawa, Suppression of his Power, 328.

Tokushima, The Bar at, 258.

"Tongue-Officer," or Interpreter, 258.

Tosa, 265.

Tosa Men, Character of, 252, 273.

Tô-zen-ji, British Legation at, 29, 63.

Tracey, Capt., 102.

Trade Relations, Unsatisfactory, 22.

Transport, Cost of, 194.

Travelling in Japan, 211.

Travel, Limits of, 27.

Treaties, 43.

Treaties of 1858, 22, 43, with Chôshiû, 127, 144, London Agreement, 154.

Tree-peonies, 202.

Tycoon, Arrival in Ozaka, 300.

Tycoon and Anti-Tycoon Parties, 99.

Tycoon, Obstruction by the, 151.

Tycoon's Party, Double Dealing of, 129.

"Tycoon," The Title, 174.

Uji, 251.

University, A, 224.

Urakami, Religious Persecution at, 276.

Uwajima Bay, 174.

Uyéno, Fighting at, 375.

Uyésama, 302.

Victoria, The Bp. of, 19.

Vidal, Death of, 194.

Vyse, Lt.-Col., 52.

Wakamatsu, Capture of, 386, 388.

Walsh, Hall & Co., 27.

Willis, Wm., 31, 52, 332, 349, 376.

Wilmot, Comm., Death of, 87.

Winchester, Mr., 141, 142.

Wirgman's Sketches, 212.

Wounded, Treatment of, 375.

Wreck of the "Rattler," 385.

Written Language, The, 58.

_Yashiki_ of Daimiôs, The, 66.

Yamashina no Miya, 354.

Yedo, British Legation at, 28, 61, 366.

Yedo, Audience with the Mikado at, 400.

Yôdô, ex-Daimiô, 268, 270.

_Yokobuyé_, The, 272.

Yokohama, 22, 23, Foreign Community 25, Society 26, Legation 29, Public Ferry 50, Theatre 50, Murder of Richardson 51, Life in 56, Squadron at 73, Scare in 74, 75, Fire 161.

Yokohama Races, 386.

Yoshii, 188.

Yoshiwara, The, 390.

IN UNKNOWN CHINA

A Record of the Observations, Adventures and Experiences of a Pioneer of Civilization During a Prolonged Sojourn Amongst the Wild and Unknown Nosu Tribe of Western China

BY

=S. POLLARD=

Author of "In Tight Corners in China."

[Illustration]

_Demy 8vo. With Many Illustrations & Maps. Price 25s. Nett_

SOME EARLY REVIEWS.

"Fascinating, racy and humorous."--_Aberdeen Journal._

"An amazing record of adventure. Mr. Pollard is delightful from every point of view. By the valiance of his own heart and faith he wins through."--_Methodist Recorder._

"Mr. Pollard is not merely an interesting man, but a courageous one.... The first white man to penetrate into Nosuland where live the bogey-men of the Manchus.... This is a people that has struck terror into the hearts of the neighbouring Chinese by the cruelty and the fierceness of its valour."--_Sketch._

Mr. Pollard's book is laid where dwell amid almost unpenetrable hills a race the Chinese have never yet succeeded in subduing."--_Western Morning News._

"In addition to its engrossing matter, Mr. Pollard's book has the attraction of a bright and pleasant style, which reveals at times a happy sense of humour, a characteristic feature not always very marked in this branch of literature."--_Glasgow Herald._

"Nosuland is a very interesting region.... Mr. Pollard has some awkward experiences. That, of course, makes his narrative all the more lively and interesting."--_Liverpool Post._

"Mr. Pollard during his travels held his life in his hand from day to day, and owed his ultimate safety to his own conciliatory prudence."--_Manchester Guardian._

"Full of adventure and strangeness, with many excellent photographs."--_Daily Mail._

"Very readable and valuable.... Admirably printed and generously illustrated." _Bristol Times and Mirror._

=SEELEY, SERVICE & CO., LTD., 38 GREAT RUSSELL STREET, W.C.=

MODERN TRAVEL

A Record of Exploration, Travel, Adventure & Sport in all Parts of the World During the Last Forty Years Derived from Personal Accounts by the Travellers

BY

=NORMAN J. DAVIDSON, B.A. (Oxon.)=

[Illustration: A MALAYTA SPEARMAN]

_Demy 8vo. With 53 Illustrations & 10 Maps. Price 25s. Nett_

SOME EARLY REVIEWS.

"A veritable classic of travel."--_Dundee Courier._

"A wonderful record, beautifully illustrated. The whole book is packed with epic adventure."--_Aberdeen Journal._

"The author has collected his material from the accounts of travellers in widely-diversified regions.... He has a light touch and a turn for picturesque and clear narration that keep his book from becoming a mere dull file, and makes it a glowing and adventurous record.... Sumptuously produced with more than fifty illustrations.... A veritable classic of travel."--_Dundee Courier._

"Mr. Davidson has a keen sense of what is of general as opposed to specialist interest, and the result is a fascinating book, well illustrated and mapped." _Birmingham Gazette._

"A veritable library. Opening with chapters on hunting mighty game, the work goes on to deal with adventures in Labrador, Paraguaya, and the Sahara, treats next of the Haunts of Slavery and of the Wilds of Africa, takes up the tale of Madagascar as Nature's Museum, depicts New Guinea ('a Land of Perpetual Rain'), proceeds to the Home of the Bird of Paradise, and concludes with accounts of the Treacherous Tribes of Oceania." _Aberdeen Free Press._

"A unique volume.... It has furnished me with many delightful hours." _Dundee Advertiser._

"Strange and thrilling pictures of other peoples and lands.... A very readable and enjoyable book."--_Sheffield Daily Independent._

=SEELEY, SERVICE & CO., LTD., 38 GREAT RUSSELL STREET, W.C.=

AMONG THE IBOS OF NIGERIA

An Account of the Curious & Interesting Habits, Customs, & Beliefs of a Little-known African People by one who has for Many Years Lived Amongst Them on Close & Intimate Terms

BY

=G. T. BASDEN, M.A., F.R.G.S.=

[Illustration: A YOUNG AWKA GIRL]

_Demy 8vo. With 32 Illustrations & a Map. Price 25s. Nett_

SOME EARLY REVIEWS.

"Expertly and admirably handled; the book is without question one of the most fascinating of its kind."--_Illustrated London News._

"One of those books which make a people live before us.... Most admirably illustrated."--_Baptist Times._

"One of the most readable books about primitive peoples which have appeared in recent years."--_Manchester Guardian._

"The author knows his subject, not as an observant, impressionable tourist, but as a man who has lived among the Ibos for many years."--_Birmingham Gazette._

"The classical authority on the very curious people it describes."--_Record._

"A comprehensive study of the customs and beliefs of the Ibo people, describing their marriage usages, their burial rites, their arts, crafts, music, trade and currency; their ways of making war; their religious beliefs (so far as these can be accurately discovered), and their sacrificial rites.... There are nearly forty admirable photographs."--_Times._

"A mass of information about Ibo life and character and customs which is probably unique, and which no British official or trader can ever hope to possess; and the substance of this information the author has condensed into these twenty-five well arranged and well written chapters."--_Record._

"He tells us what he knows about the Ibos--and he knows a great deal.... He knows too much to dogmatise.... What he does say one accepts without question.--_Times._

=SEELEY, SERVICE & CO., LTD., 38 GREAT RUSSELL STREET W.C.=

THE LIFE & EXPLORATIONS OF FREDERICK STANLEY ARNOT F.R.G.S.

The Authorised Biography of a Great Missionary

BY THE REVEREND ERNEST BAKER Author of "The Return of the Lord."

_Demy 8vo. Illustrations & Map. Price 12s. 6d. Nett_

SOME EARLY REVIEWS.

"A second Dr. Livingstone ... as stimulating as it is interesting."--_Aberdeen Journal._

"Amongst the greatest of Travellers."--_Glasgow Herald._

"A rich and moving book."--_Methodist Recorder._

"This book is a worthy memorial to a great man and a great work."--_Birmingham Gazette._

"We know very few missionary biographies equally IMPRESSIVE AND TOUCHING. Arnot was spiritually A VERY GREAT MAN. That he was one of the most faithful of Christ's servants is apparent from every page of the book. Mr. Baker has done his work in the right spirit, and with full sympathy.... There was much of austerity in Arnot's career, but there was no severity. There is a quiet and patient reliance through all--a reliance which carried him through most exacting circumstances.... One authority said that he had two great characteristics of a thorough African traveller--pluck and kindness to the natives.... Sir Francis de Winton said that Mr. Arnot had made the name of Englishman respected wherever he went, and had helped effectually in stopping the slave trade."--_British Weekly._

[Illustration]

"A GREAT STORY GREATLY TOLD. From first page to last this book is of compelling interest. The diaries of the Great African Missionary are laid under contribution and the result is not only a fascinating story of adventure and travel, but an autobiographical record of immense value. THE BOOK IS LIKELY TO RANK AS A CLASSIC."--_Western Daily Press._

"Full of exciting incidents, the young can find in it plenty of remarkable jungle stories, and those of riper years will enjoy the graphic descriptions of travel in the tropics, the folk-lore, and especially the 'nerve' of Stanley Arnot in boldly facing and overcoming any task from 'buying' a little slave to amputating a chief's arm with a penknife and an old razor! Or, again, in boldly telling Cecil Rhodes that he would not play his game, and as boldly denouncing Portuguese and native rulers for prosecuting the horrible traffic in slaves." _Manchester Guardian._

SEELEY, SERVICE & CO., LTD., 38 GREAT RUSSELL STREET, W.C.

Transcriber Notes:

Passages in italics were indicated by _underscores_.

Passages in bold were indicated by =equal signs=.

Small caps were replaced with ALL CAPS.

Throughout the document, the oe ligature was replaced with "oe".

Throughout the dialogues, there were words used to mimic accents of the speakers. Those words were retained as-is.

The illustrations have been moved so that they do not break up paragraphs and so that they are next to the text they illustrate. Thus the page number of the illustration might not match the page number in the List of Illustrations, and the order of illustrations may not be the same in the List of Illustrations and in the book.

There were two two-page maps, which were converted into one-maps by converting the two image parts of the maps into single images.

Errors in punctuation and inconsistent hyphenation were not corrected unless otherwise noted.

Throughout the document, instances of "Mr" were replaced with "Mr." when preceding a name.

Since hyphenation was not used in the Japanese language of the this period, and since the transliteration of Japanese words in this text sometimes used hyphenation, no attempt was made to "correct" inconsistencies in that hyphenation.

In the glossary of Japanese words, the order changed to be "alphabetical" in the western sense.

On page 9, "Choshiu" was replaced with "Chôshiû".

On page 27, "Ministers'" was replaced with "Minister's".

On page 103, a quotation mark was added after "Tancrède,".

On page 113, the period was removed after "Fred".

On page 116, "CHOSHIU" was replaced with "CHOSHIÛ".

On page 122, "Ito" was replaced with "Itô".

On page 124, "Ito" was replaced with "Itô".

On page 179, "bcomes" was replaced with "becomes".

On page 182, a period was placed after "I said".

On page 184, "Choshiu" was replaced with "Chôshiû".

On page 197, "somwhat" was replaced with "somewhat".

On page 206, "betté gumi" was replaced with "betté-gumi".

On page 237, "couple of house" was replaced with "couple of hours".

On page 269, "It his people" was replaced with "If his people".

On page 275, "bue" was replaced with "but".

On page 282, "sumurai" was replaced with "samurai".

On page 304, "the the" was replaced with "the".

On page 310, "of of" was replaced with "of".

On page 318, "Kôbè" was replaced with "Kôbé".

On page 362, the period after "Those of us" was changed to a comma.

On page 371, "artifically" was replaced with "artificially".

On page 373, "housekeping" was replaced with "housekeeping".

On page 384, "quadron" was replaced with "squadron".

On page 384, "Chô-shiû" was replaced with "Chôshiû".

On page 386, "Madé-no-koji" was replaced with "Madé-no-kôji".

On page 388, "Dr Siddall" was replaced with "Dr. Siddall".

On page 391, "Dr Alford" was replaced with "Dr. Alford".

On page 400, "2/IX" was replaced with "2/ix".

On page 401, "artifically" was replaced with "artificially".

On page 413, a period was placed after "also mother-of-pearl".

On page 417, "see p. 172." was replaced with "see p. 174.".

On page 417, a period was placed after "two posting-stations".

On page 418, a period was placed after "offence against his superior".

On page 420, a period was placed after "Christianity, Edict against, 368".

On page 420, "Etchiu" was replaced with "Etchiû".

On page 421, a period was placed after "Hamamatsu, Reception at, 217".

On page 421, a period was placed after "Houseboat, Travelling in a, 207".

On page 423, "Matsudairo Kanso" was replaced with "Matsudaira Kansô".

On page 423, "Matsugi Kowan" was replaced with "Matsugi Kôwan".

On page 423, a period was placed after "Mikado, Audience with the, 358".

On page 424, a period was placed after "Neutrality, A Question of, 405".

On page 425, a period was placed after "Roches, M., Policy of, 197, 353".

On page 424, "Tenriu" was replaced with "Tenriû".

End of Project Gutenberg's A Diplomat in Japan, by Ernest Mason Satow