X.
_THE GREAT NORTHERN PEAKS._
Cradled and rocked by wind and cloud, Safe pillowed on the summit proud, Steadied by that encircling arm Which holds the Universe from harm, I knew the Lord my soul would keep, Upon His mountain-tops asleep! LUCY LARCOM.
Thus I found myself again at the base of Mount Washington, but on the reverse, opposed to the Glen. Before the completion of the railway from Fabyan's to the foot of the mountain I had passed over the intervening six miles by stage--a delightful experience; but one now steps on board an open car, which in less than half the time formerly occupied leaves him at the point where the mountain car and engine wait for him. The route lies along the foaming Ammonoosuc, and its justly admired falls, cut deep through solid granite, into the uncouth and bristling wilderness which surrounds the base of the mountain. The peculiarity of these falls does not consist in long, abrupt descents of perturbed water, but in the neatly excavated caves, rock-niches, and smoothly rounded cliffs and basins through which for some distance the impatient stream rears and plunges like a courser feeling the curb. Imperfect glimpses hardly give an idea of the curious and interesting processes of rock-cutting to one who merely looks down from the high banks above while the train is in rapid motion. It is better, therefore, to visit these falls by way of the old turnpike.
The advance up the valley which has first given us an outlook through the great Notch, on our right, presents for some time the huge green hemisphere of Mount Pleasant as the conspicuous object. The track then swerves to the left, bringing Mount Washington into view, and in a few minutes more we are at the ill-favored clump of houses and sheds at its base.
[Illustration: MOUNTAIN RAILWAY-STATION IN STAGING TIMES.]
The mechanism of the road-way is very simple. The track is formed of three iron rails, firmly clamped to stout timbers, laid lengthwise upon transverse pieces, or sleepers. These are securely embedded, where the surface will allow, or raised upon trestles, where its inequalities would compel a serious deflection from a smooth or regular inclination. One of these, about half-way up the mountain, is called Jacob's Ladder. Here the train achieves the most difficult part of the ascent. After traversing the whole line on foot, and inspecting it minutely and thoroughly, I can candidly pronounce it not only a marvel of mechanical skill, but bear witness to the scrupulous care taken to keep every timber and every bolt in its place. In two words, the structure is nothing but a ladder of wood and iron laid upon the side of the mountain.[43]
The propelling force employed is equally simple. The engine and car merely rest upon and are kept in place by the two outer rails, while the power is applied to the middle one, which we have just called a rail, but is, more properly speaking, a little ladder of steel cogs, into which the corresponding teeth of the locomotive's driving-wheel play--a firm hold being thus secured. The question now merely is, how much power is necessary to overcome gravity and lift the weight of the machine into the air? This cogged-rail is the fulcrum, and steam the lever. Mr. Sylvester Marsh has not precisely lifted the mountain, but he has, nevertheless, with the aid of Mr. Walter Aiken, reduced it, to all intents, to a level.
The boiler of the locomotive, inclined forward so as to preserve a horizontal position when the engine is ascending, the smoke-stack also pitched forward, give the idea of a machine that has been in a collision. Everything seems knocked out of place. But this queer-looking thing, that with bull-dog tenacity literally hangs on to the mountain with its teeth, is capable of performing a feat such as Watt never dreamed of, or Stephenson imagined. It goes up the mountain as easily as a bear climbs a tree, and like a bear.
I had often watched the last ascension of the train, which usually reaches the summit at sunset, and I had as often pleased myself with considering whether it then most resembled a big, shining beetle crawling up the mountain side, or some fiery dragon of the fabulous times, dragging his prey after him to his den, after ravaging the valley. My own turn was now come to make the trial. It was a cold afternoon in September when I entered the little carriage, not much larger than a street-car, and felt the premonitory jerk with which the ascent begins. The first hill is so steep that you look up to see the track always mounting high above your head; but one soon gets used to the novelty, and to the clatter which accompanies the incessant dropping of a pawl into the indentures of the cogged-rail, and in which he recognizes an element of safety. The train did not move faster than one could walk, but it moved steadily, except when it now and then stopped at a water-tank, standing solitary and alone upon the waste of rocks.
By the time we emerged above the forest into the chill and wind-swept desolation above it--a first sight of which is so amazing--the sun had set behind the Green Mountain summits, showing a long, serrated line of crimson peaks, above which clouds of lake floated in a sea of amber. It grew very cold. Great-coats and shawls were quickly put on. Thick darkness enveloped the mountain as we approached the head of the profound gulf separating us from Mount Clay, which is the most remarkable object seen at any time either during the ascent or descent. Into this pitchy ravine, into its midnight blackness, a long and brilliant train of sparks trailed downward from the locomotive, so that we seemed being transported heavenward in a chariot of fire. This flaming torch, lighting us on, now disclosed snow and ice on all sides. We had successfully attained the last slope which conceals the railway from the valley. Up this the locomotive toiled and panted, while we watched the stars come out and emit cold gleams around, above, beneath. The light of the Summit House twinkled small, then grew large, as, surmounting the last and steepest pitch of the pinnacle, we were pushed before a long row of lighted windows crusted thick with hoar-frost. Stiffened with cold, the passengers rushed for the open door without ceremony. In an instant the car was empty; while the locomotive, dripping with its unheard-of efforts, seemed to regard this desertion with reproachful glances.
Reader, have you ever sat beside Mrs. Dodge's fire after such a passive ascension as that just described? After a two hours' combat with the instinct of self-preservation, did you dream of such comforts, luxuries even, awaiting you on the bleak mountain-top, where nothing grows, and where water even congeals and refuses to run? Could you, in the highest flights of fancy, imagine that you would one day sit in the courts of heaven, or feast sumptuously amid the stars? All this you either have done or may do. And now, while the smartly-dressed waiter-girl, who seems to have donned her white apron as a personal favor, brings you the best the larder affords, pinch yourself to see if you are awake.
In several ascensions by the railway I have always remarked the same symptoms of uneasiness among the passengers, betrayed by pale faces, compressed lips, hands tightening their grasp of the chairs, or subdued and startled exclamations, quickly repressed. To escape the influence of such weird surroundings one should be absolutely stolid--a stock or a stone. So for all it is an experience more or less acute, according to his sensibility, strength of nerve, and power of self-control. However well it may be disguised, the strong equally with the weak, and more deeply than the weak, feel the strain which ninety minutes' combat with gravitation, attraction, ponderosity, engenders. The mind does not for a single instant quit its hold of this defiance of Nature's laws. As long as iron and steel hold fast, there is no danger; but you think iron and steel are iron and steel, and no more. An anecdote will illustrate this feeling.
After pointing out to a lady-passenger the skilful devices for stopping the engine--the pawl, the steam, and the atmospheric brakes--and after patiently explaining their mechanism and uses, the listener asked the conductor, with much interest,
"Then, if the pawl breaks while we are going up?"
"The engine will be stopped by means of these powerful brakes, applied directly to the axles, which will, of course, render the train motionless. As the locomotive has two driving-wheels, the engineer can bring a double power to bear, as you see. Each is independent of the other, so that if one gives way the other is still more than sufficient to keep the engine stationary."
"Thank you; but the car?"
"Oh, the car is not attached to the engine at all; and should the engineer lose the control of his machine, which is not at all likely, the car can be brought to a stand-still by independent brakes of its own. You see the engine goes up behind, and in front, down; and the car is simply pushed forward, or follows it."
"So that you consider it--."
"Perfectly safe, madam, perfectly safe."
"Thank you. One question more. Suppose all these things break at once. What then? Where would we go?"
"That, madam, would depend on what sort of a life you had led."
I have still a consolation for the timid. Ten years' trial has confirmed the declaration of its projectors, that they would make the road as safe or safer than the ordinary railway. No life has been lost by an injury to a passenger during that time. Besides, what is the difference? After its day, the railway will pass like the stage-coach--that is, unless you believe, as you do not, that the world and all progress are to stop with ourselves.
[Illustration: ASCENT BY THE RAILWAY.]
The affable lady hostess told me that she paid an annual rental of ten thousand dollars for her palace of ice; nominally for a year, but really for a term of only seventy-six days, this being the limit of the season upon the summit. During the remaining two hundred and eighty-nine days the house is closed. During four or five months it is buried, or half-buried, in a snow-drift. Of this large sum, three thousand dollars go to the Pingree heirs. These facts may tend to modify the views of those who think the charges exorbitant, if such there are.
Raising my eyes to look out of the window, the light from within fell upon a bank of snow. A man was stooping over it as if in search of something. Going out, I found him feeling it with his hands, and examining it with childish wonder and curiosity. I approached this eccentric person very softly; but he, seeing my shadow on the snow beside him, looked up.
"Can I assist you in recovering what you have lost?" I inquired.
"Thank you; no. I have lost nothing. Ah! I see," he continued, laughing quietly, "you think I have lost my wits. But it is not so. I am a native of the East Indies, and I assure you this is the first time in my life I have ever seen snow near enough to handle it. Imagine what an experience the ascent of Mount Washington is for me!"
We took a turn down the hard-frozen Glen road together in order to see the moon come up. The telegraph-poles, fantastically crusted with ice to the thickness of a foot, stretched a line of white-hooded phantoms down the dark side of the mountain. From successive coatings of frozen mist the wires were as thick as cables. Couches of snow lay along the rocks, and fresh snow had apparently been rubbed into all the inequalties of the cliffs rising out of the Great Gulf. The scene was supremely weird, supremely desolate.
From here we crossed over to the railway, and, ascending by it, shortly came upon the heap of stones, surmounted by its tablet, erected on the spot where Miss Bourne perished while ascending the mountain, in September, 1855. The party, of which she was one, setting out in high spirits in the afternoon from the Glen House, was overtaken near the summit by clouds, which hid the house from view, and among which they became bewildered. It was here Miss Bourne declared she could go no farther. Overcome by her exertions, she sunk exhausted and fainting upon the rocks. Her friends were scarcely awakened to her true condition when, amid the surrounding darkness and gloom, this young and lovely maiden of only twenty expired in the arms of her uncle. The mourners wrapped the body in their own cloaks, and, ignorant that a few rods only separated them from the summit, kept a vigil throughout the long and weary night. We hasten over this night of dread. In the morning, discovering their destination a few rods above them, they bore the lifeless form of their companion to it with feelings not to be described. A rude bier was made, and she who had started up the mountain full of life now descended it a corpse.
The evening treated us to a magnificent spectacle. The moon, in full-orbed splendor, moved majestically up the heavens, attended by her glittering retinue of stars. Frozen peaks, reflecting the mild radiance, shone like beaten silver. But the immense hollows between, the deep valleys that had been open to view, were now inundated with a white and luminous vapor, from which the multitude of icy summits emerged like a vast archipelago--a sea of islands. This spectral ocean seemed on the point of ingulfing the mountains. This motionless sea, these austere peaks, uprising, were inconceivably weird and solemnizing. An awful hush pervaded the inanimate but threatening host of cloud-girt mountains. Upon them, upon the sea of frozen vapor, absorbing its light, the clear moon poured its radiance. The stars seemed nearer and brighter than ever before. The planets shone with piercing brilliancy; they emitted a sensible light. The Milky Way, erecting its glittering nebula to the zenith, to which it was pinned by a dazzling star, floated, a glorious, star-spangled veil, amid this vast sea of gems. One could vaguely catch the idea of an unpeopled desolation rising from the fathomless void of a primeval ocean. The peaks, incased in snow and ice, seemed stamped with the traces of its subsidence. Pale and haggard, they lifted their antique heads in silent adoration.
Going to my room and extinguishing the light, I stood for some time at the window, unable to reconcile the unwonted appearance of the stars shining far below, with the fixed idea that they ought not to be there. Yet there they were. To tell the truth, my head was filled with the surpassing pomp I had just witnessed, of which I had not before the faintest conception. I felt as if I was silently conversing with all those stars, looking at me and my petty aspirations with such inflexible, disdainful immobility. When one feels that he is nothing, self-assurance is no great thing. The conceit is taken out of him. On a mountain the man stands naked before his Maker. He is nothing. That is why I leave him there.
That night I did not sleep a wink. Twenty times I jumped out of bed and ran to the window to convince myself that it was not all a dream. No; moon and stars were still bright. Over the Great Gulf, all ghastly in the moonlight, stood Mount Jefferson in his winding-sheet. I dressed myself, and from the embrasure of my window kept a vigil.
Sunrise did not produce the startling effect I had anticipated. The morning was fine and cloudless. A gong summoned the inmates of the hotel to the spectacle. Without dressing themselves, they ran to their windows, where, wrapped in bed-blankets, they stood eagerly watching the east. To the pale emerald of early dawn a ruddy glow succeeded. Before we were aware, the rocky waste around us grew dusky red. The crimsoned air glided swiftly over the neighboring summits. Now the brightness was upon Adams and Jefferson and Clay, and now it rolled its purpled flood into the Great Gulf, to mingle with the intense blackness at the bottom. For some moments the mountain-tops held the color, then it was transfused into the clear sunshine of open day; while the vapors, heavy and compact, stretched along the valleys, still smothering the land, retained their leaden hue.
It was still early when I descended the carriage-road on my way to Mount Adams. The usual way is to keep the railway as far as the old Gulf Tank, near which is a house of refuge, provided with a cooking-stove, fuel, and beds. I continued, however, to coast the upper crags of the Great Gulf, until compelled to make directly for the southern peak of Mount Clay. The view from this _col_ is imposing, embracing at once, and without turning the head, all the southern summits of the chain. Here I was joined by two travellers fresh from Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn.
Each choosing a route for himself, we pushed on to the high summit of Clay, from which we looked down into the deep gap dividing this mountain from Jefferson. Arrived there, we resolutely attacked the eastern slopes of this fine peak, whose notched summit rose more than seven hundred and fifty feet above our heads. Patches of Alpine grasses, of reindeer-moss, interspersed with irregular ridges of stones, extended quite up to the summit, which was a mere elongated stone-heap crowning the apex of its cone. Those undulating masses encircling its bulk, half hid among the grass, were like an immense python crushing the mountain in its deadly folds. We picked our way carefully among this chaotic débris, which the Swiss aptly call "cemeteries of the devil," tripping now and then in the long, wiry grass, or burying our feet among the hummocks of dry moss, which were so many impediments to rapid progress. This appearance and this experience were common to the whole route.
At each summit we threw ourselves upon the ground, to feast upon the landscape while regaining breath. Each halt developed more and more the grand and stupendous mass of Washington receding from the depths of the Great Gulf, along whose edge the carriage-road serpentined and finally disappeared. We saw, a little softened by distance, the horribly mutilated crags of the head wall stripped bare of all verdure, presenting on its knobbed agglomerates of tempest-gnawed granite a thousand eye-catching points and detaining as many shadows. Nothing--not even the glittering leagues of mountains and valleys shooting or slumbering above, beneath--so riveted the attention as this apparently bottomless pit of the five mountains. It was a continued wonder. It drew us by a strange magnetism to its dizzy brink, chained us there, and then abandoned us to a physical and moral vertigo, in which the power of critical investigation was lost. An invisible force seemed always dragging us toward it. Whence comes this horrible, this uncontrollable desire to throw ourselves in?
Out of the death-like torpor which eternally shrouds the ravine the smiling valley seems escaping. The crystal air of the heights grows thick in its depths. Beasts and birds of prey haunt its gloomy solitudes. An immense grave seems yawning to receive the mountains. The aged mountains seem standing with one foot in the grave.
This gulf makes an impression altogether different from the others. It is an immense ravine. Each of the five mountains pushes down into it massive buttresses of granite, forming lesser ravines between of considerable extent. Through these streams trickle down from invisible sources. But these buttresses, which fall lightly and gracefully as folds of velvet from summit to base of the highest mountains, these ravines, are hardly noticed. The insatiable maw of the gulf swallows them as easily as an anaconda a rabbit. In immensity, which you do not easily grasp, in grandeur, which you do not know how to measure, this has no partakers here. Even the great Carter Mountain, rising from the Peabody Valley, seems no more than a stone rolled away from the entrance of this enormous sepulchre.
Our first difficulties were encountered upon the reverse of Mount Jefferson, from whose side rocky spurs detached themselves, and, jutting out from the side of the mountain, formed an irregular line of cliffs of varying height, in the way we had selected for the descent. But these were no great affair. We now had the Ravine of the Castles upon our left, the stately pyramid of Adams in front, and, beneath, the deep hollow between this mountain and the one we were descending. We had the little hamlet of East Jefferson at the mouth of the ravine, and that crowd of peaks, tightly wedged between the waters of the Connecticut and the Androscoggin, looming above it.
A deviation to the left enabled us to approach the Castellated Ridge, which is, beyond dispute, the most extraordinary rock-formation the whole extent of the range can show. As it is then fully before you, it is seen to much better advantage when approached from Mount Adams. I do not know who gave it this name, but none could be more felicitous or expressive. It is a sloping ridge of red-brown granite, broken at its summit into a long line of picturesque towers and battlements, rising threateningly over an escarpment of débris. Such an illusion is too rarely encountered to be easily forgotten. It is hardly possible to doubt you are really looking at an antique ruin. One would like to wander among these pre-Adamite fortifications, which curiously remind him of the old Spanish fortresses among the Pyrenees. From the opposite side of the ravine--for I had not the time requisite for a closer examination--the rock composing the most elevated portion of the ridge appears to have been split perpendicularly down, probably by frost, allowing these broken columns and shafts to stand erect upon the verge of the abyss. In the warm afternoon light, when the shadows fall, it is hardly possible to conceive a finer picture of a crumbling but still formidable mountain fortress. Bastions and turrets stand boldly out. Each broken shaft sends a long shadow streaming down into the ravine, whose high and deeply-furrowed sides are thus beautifully striped with dusk-purple, while the sunlit parts retain a greenish-gray.
At the foot of Jefferson we found, concealed among rushes, a spring, which refreshed us like wells of the desert the parched and fainting Arab. From here two routes offered themselves. One was by keeping the curved ridge, rising gradually to a subordinate peak (Samuel Adams),[44] and to the foot of the summit itself; a second was by crossing the ground sloping downward from this ridge into the Great Gulf. We chose the latter, notwithstanding the dwarf-spruce, advancing well up to the foot of the ridge, promised a warm reception.
[Illustration: THE CASTELLATED RIDGE.]
At last, after sustaining a vigorous tussle with the scrub-firs, and stopping to unearth a brook whose waters purred underneath stones, I stood at the foot of the pointed shaft I had so often seen wedged into the sky. Five hundred feet or more of the apex of this pyramid is apparently formed of broken rocks, dropped one by one into place. Nothing like a ledge or a cliff is to be seen: only these ponderous, sharp-edged masses of cold gray stone, lifted one above another to the tapering point. Up this mutilated pyramid we began a slow advance. It was necessary to carefully choose one step before taking another, in order to avoid plunging into the deep crevasses traversing the peak in every direction. At last I placed my foot upon the topmost crag.
No one can help regarding this peak with the open admiration which is its due. You conceive that every mountain ought to have a pinnacle. Well, here it is. We could easily have stood astride the culminating point. But how came these rocks here? and what was the primitive structure, if these fragments we see are its relics? One hardly believes that an ice-raft could have first transported and then deposited such misshapen masses in their present symmetrical form. Still less does he admit that the original shaft, crushed in a thousand pieces by the glacier itself, fell with such grace as to rise again, as he now sees it, from its own ruins. If, again, it proceeds from the eternal hammering of King Frost, what was the antique edifice that first rose so proudly above the frozen seas of the great primeval void? But to science the things which belong to science. We have a book describing heaven, but not one that resolves the problems of earth. The "_Veni, vidi, vici,_" of the Book of Genesis leaves us at the beginning. We are still staring, still questioning, still vacillating between this theory and that hypothesis.[45]
We had from the summit an inspiring though not an extensive view. A bank of dun-colored smoke smirched the fair western sky as high as the summits of the Green Mountains. At fifty miles mountains and valleys melted confusedly into each other. Water emitted only a dull glimmer. Here a peak and there a summit surveyed us from afar. All else was intangible; almost imaginary. At twenty-five miles the land, resuming its ordinary appearance, was bathed in the soft brilliance caused by the sun shining through an atmosphere only half transparent.
Upon this obscure mass we traced once more the well-known objects environing the great mountain. To the south Mount Washington divided the landscape in two. For some time we stood admiring its magnificent _torso_, its amplitude of rock-land, its easy preponderance over every other summit. Again we followed the road down the great north-east spur. Once more we caught the white specks which denote the line of the railway. We plunged our eyes down into the Great Gulf, and lifted them to the shattered protuberances of Clay, which seemed to mark the route where the glacier crushed and ground its way through the very centre of the chain. A second time we descended Jefferson to the deep dip, opening like a trough between two enormous sea-waves, where we first saw the little Storm Lake glistening. Following now the long, rocky ridge, rolling downward toward the hamlets of Jefferson and Randolph, the mountains yawned wide at our feet. We were looking over into King's Ravine--to its very bottom. We peered curiously into its remotest depths, traced the difficult and breathless ascent through the remarkable natural gateway at its head out upon a second ridge, on which a little pond (Star Lake) lies hid. We then crossed the gap communicating with Mount Madison, whose summit, last and lowest of the great northern peaks, dominates the Androscoggin Valley with undisputed sway. To-day it made on us scarcely an impression. Its peak, which from the valley holds a rough similitude with that of Adams, is dwarfed here. You look down upon it.
More applicable to Adams than to any other, for our eyes grow dazzled with the glitter and sparkle of countless mica-flakes incrusting the hard granite with clear brilliancy as from the facets of a diamond; more applicable, again, from the stern, unconquerable attitude of the great gray shaft itself, lifted in such conscious pride beyond the confines of the vast ethereal vault of blue--a tower of darkness invading the bright realms of light; a defiance flung by earth in the face of high heaven--is the magnificent description of the Matterhorn from the pen of Ruskin:
"If one of these little flakes of mica-sand, hurried in tremulous spangling along the bottom of the ancient river, too light to sink, too faint to float, almost too small for sight, could have had a mind given to it as it was at last borne down with its kindred dust into the abysses of the stream, and laid (would it not have thought?) for a hopeless eternity in the dark ooze, the most despised, forgotten, and feeble of all earth's atoms; incapable of any use or change; not fit, down there in the diluvial darkness, so much as to help an earth-wasp to build its nest, or feed the first fibre of a lichen--what would it have thought had it been told that one day, knitted into a strength as of imperishable iron, rustless by the air, infusible by the flame, out of the substance of it, with its fellows, the axe of God should hew that Alpine tower;--that against _it_--poor, helpless mica-flake!--the snowy hills should lie bowed like flocks of sheep, and the kingdoms of the earth fade away in unregarded blue; and around it--weak, wave-drifted mica-flake!--the great war of the firmament should burst in thunder, and yet stir it not; and the fiery arrows and angry meteors of the night fall blunted back from it into the air; and all the stars in the clear heaven should light, one by one, as they rose, new cressets upon the points of snow that fringed its abiding-place on the imperishable spire!"
Myself and my companions set out on our return to the Summit House early in the afternoon, choosing this time the ridge in preference to the scrubby slope. From this we turned away, at the end of half an hour, by an obscure path leading to a boggy pool, sunk in a mossy hollow underneath it, crossed the area of scattered bowlders, strewn all around like the relics of a petrified tempest, and, filling our cups at the spring, drank to Mount Adams, the paragon of mountain peaks.
As we again approached the brow of Mount Washington the sun resembled a red-hot globe of iron flying through the west and spreading a conflagration through the heavens. Again the colossal shadow of the mountain began its stately ascension in the east. One moment the burning eye of the great luminary interrogated this phantom, sprung from the loins of the hoary peak. Then it dropped heavily down behind the Green Mountains, as it has done for thousands of years, the landscape fading, fading into one vast, shadowy abyss, out of which arose the star-lit dome of the august summit.
TOURIST'S APPENDIX.
PREPARED FOR "THE HEART OF THE WHITE MOUNTAINS."
GEOGRAPHY.--The White Mountains are in the northern central part of the State of New Hampshire. They occupy the whole area of the State between Maine and Vermont, and between Lake Winnipiseogee and the head-streams of the Connecticut and Androscoggin rivers.
Two principal chains, having a general direction from south-west to north-east, constitute this great water-shed of New England. These are the Franconia and the White Mountains proper, sometimes called the "Presidential Range."
Grouped on all sides of the higher summits are a great number of inferior ridges, among which, as in the Sandwich Range, rise some very fine peaks, widely extending the mountainous area, and diversifying it with numerous valleys, lakes, and streams.
Two principal rivers, the Saco and Merrimack, flowing from these two chief clusters, form the two great valleys of the White Mountain system; and by these valleys the railways enter the mountains from the seaboard. Lake Winnipiseogee, which washes the southern foot of the mountains, is also a thoroughfare, as are the valleys of the Connecticut and Androscoggin rivers.
DISTANCES.--It is 430 miles from Philadelphia to Fabyan's; 340 from New York, _via_ Springfield; 190 from Montreal, _via_ Newport; 208 _via_ Groveton; 169 from Boston, _via_ North Conway (Eastern R.R.); 208 _via_ Concord (B., C., & M. R.R.); 91 from Portland, _via_ North Conway (P. & O. R.R.); 91 from Portland to Gorham (G. T. R.); 199 from Boston to Gorham, _via_ Eastern and Grand Trunk roads; and 206 _via_ Boston and Maine and Grand Trunk roads.
ROUTES.--Procure, before starting, the official time-tables of the railroads running to the mountains or making direct connection with them, by application to local agents, by writing to the ticket-agents of the roads, or by consulting a railway guide-book. The roads reaching the mountains are--
From Washington: The Pennsylvania, and New York & New England.
From Philadelphia: The Pennsylvania, and New York & New England.
From Montreal: The Grand Trunk, and The South-eastern.
From Quebec: The Grand Trunk Railway.
From Saratoga: The Delaware & Hudson Canal Co.
From New York: New York, New Haven, & Hartford (all rail _via_ Springfield, White River Junction, and Wells River to Fabyan's; or all rail _via_ Springfield, Worcester, Nashua, and Concord, N. H.; or all rail _via_ "Shore Line," Boston & Albany, or New York & New England roads to Boston); or by Fall River, Norwich, or Stonington "Sound Lines" to Boston; thence by either of the following railroads:
[Illustration: JACOBS LADDER, MOUNT WASHINGTON RAILWAY.]
From Boston: Eastern R.R., _via_ Beverly (18 miles, branch to Cape Ann); Hampton (46 miles, Boar's Head and Rye Beaches); Portsmouth (56 miles, Newcastle and Isles of Shoals and York Beach); Kittery (57 miles); Wolfborough Junction (98 miles, branch to Lake Winnipiseogee); North Conway (138 miles; connects with Portland and Ogdensburg); Intervale (139 miles); Glen Station (144 miles, for Jackson and Glen House); Crawford's (165 miles); Fabyan's (169 miles; connects with B., C., & M. for Summit of Mount Washington, Bethlehem, Profile House, and Jefferson; or by same route to Portland, thence by P. & O. R.R. to North Conway, or Grand Trunk Railway to Gorham).
Boston, Lowell & Concord, and Boston, Concord & Montreal Railroads, _via_ Lowell (26 miles); Nashua, Manchester, Concord (75 miles); Plymouth (123 miles); Woodsville (166 miles, Wells River); Littleton (185 miles, for Sugar Hill); Wing Road (192 miles, branch to Jefferson); Bethlehem (196 miles, branch road to Profile House, also to "Maplewood," and Bethlehem Street); Twin Mountain House, Fabyan's (208 miles, branch to Summit of Mount Washington, 217 miles); connects at Fabyan's with P. & O. and Eastern roads for North Conway, Portland, and Boston.
Boston & Maine R.R. _via_ Lawrence (26 miles); Haverhill, Exeter (50 miles); Dover (68 miles); Rochester (78 miles); Alton Bay (96 miles), connecting with steamer for Wolfborough and Centre Harbor, on Lake Winnipiseogee; or by the same road to Portland, thence by P. & O. to North Conway and Fabyan's, or Grand Trunk to Gorham and Glen House.
From Portland: Portland & Ogdensburg R.R. via Sebago Lake (17 miles); Fryeburg (49 miles); Conway Centre, North Conway (60 miles); Glen Station (66 miles, Jackson and Glen House); Bartlett (72 miles); Crawford's (87 miles); Fabyan's (91 miles; connects with B., C., & M. R.R. for Summit of Mount Washington, Bethlehem, Profile House, Sugar Hill, Jefferson, etc.).
Grand Trunk Railway: Danville Junction (27 miles); Bethel (70 miles); Shelburne (86 miles); Gorham (91 miles, for Glen House).
A good way to do the mountains by rail is to buy an excursion-ticket over the route entering on the west, and, passing through, leave them by the roads on the east side via Boston or Portland, or _vice versa_. At Fabyan's, where the two great routes meet, the traveller coming from either direction may pursue his journey without delay. From _Boston to Boston_, _Portland to Portland_, there is continuous rail without going twice over the same line.
_Lake Winnipiseogee._--At Alton Bay, Wolfborough, and Weirs steamer is taken for Centre Harbor, at the head of the lake. Here the traveller may either take the daily stages for West Ossipee (E. R.R.) or steamer to Weirs (B., C., & M.), and thus be again on the direct rail routes.
HOW TO CHOOSE A LOCATION.--Do you wish a quiet retreat, off the travelled routes, where you may have rest and seclusion, or do you desire to fix yourself in a position favorable to exploring the whole mountain region?
In either case consult (1) some friend who has visited the mountains; (2), consult the maps in this volume; (3), consult the landlord in any place you may fancy for a limited or a lengthened residence; (4), apply to the agents of the Eastern, Portland, & Ogdensburg, Boston, Concord, & Montreal, Boston & Maine, or Grand Trunk Railways, for books or folders containing a list of the mountain hotels reached by their lines, and the charge for board by the day and week. (The Eastern, and B., C., & M. print revised lists every year, for gratuitous distribution.)
Wolfborough, Weirs, Centre Harbor, and Sandwich (all on or near Lake Winnipiseogee); Blair's, Sanborn's, Campton Village, Thornton, and Woodstock, in the Pemigewasset Valley; Tamworth, Conway Corner, Fryeburg, the Intervale (North Conway), Jackson, the Glen House, Bethel (Me.), Shelburne, Randolph, East Jefferson, Jefferson Hill, Lancaster, Littleton, Franconia, Sugar Hill, Haverhill, and Newbury (Vt.)--all come within the category first named; while the second want will be supplied at such points as North Conway, Crawford's, Fabyan's, Twin Mountain House, Bethlehem, and the Profile House. North Conway and Bethlehem are the keys to the whole mountain region. Fabyan's and the Glen House are the proper points from which to ascend Mount Washington.
To aid in locating these places on the map, refer constantly to the Index at the end of the volume.
Leaving Boston or Portland in the morning, any of the points named may be reached in from four to eight hours.
HINTS FOR TOURISTS.--Select your destination, if possible, in advance; and if you require apartments, telegraph to the hotel where you mean to stop, giving the number of persons in your party, thus avoiding the disappointment of arriving, at the end of a long journey, at an over-crowded hotel.
[Illustration: U. S. METEOROLOGICAL STATION, MOUNT WASHINGTON, IN SUMMER.]
Should you fix upon a particular locality for a long or short stay, write to one (or more) of the landlords for terms, etc.; and if his house is off the line of railway, inform him of the day and train you mean to take, so that he may meet you with a carriage at the nearest station. But if you do not go upon the day named, remember to notify the landlord.
Always take some warm woollen clothing (inside and outside) for mountain ascensions. It is unsafe to be without it in any season, as the nights are usually cool even in midsummer.
From the middle of June to the middle of October is the season of mountain travel. The best views are obtained in June, September, and October. From the middle of September to the middle of October the air is pure and invigorating, the mountain forests are then in a blaze of autumnal splendor, the cascades are finer, and out-of-door jaunts are less fatiguing than in July and August.
Should you wish merely to make a rapid tour of the mountain region, it will be best so to arrange your route before starting that the first day will bring you where there is something to be seen, to a comfortable hotel, and from which your journey may be continued with an economy of time and money.
The three journeys described in this volume will enable you to see all that is most desirable to be seen; but the excellent facilities for traversing the mountains render it immaterial whether these routes are precisely followed, taken in their reverse order, or adopted as a general plan, with such modifications as the tourist's time or inclination may suggest.
Upon arriving at his destination the traveller naturally desires to use his time to the best advantage possible. But he is ignorant how to do this. "What shall I do?" "Where shall I go?" are the two questions that confront him. Let us suppose him arrived, first, at NORTH CONWAY.
As he stands gazing up the Saco Valley, Moat Mountain is on his left, Kearsarge at his right, and Mount Washington in front. (Refer to the Chapter and Index articles on North Conway.) The high cliffs on the side of Moat are called the Ledges. This glorious view may be improved by going a mile up the railroad, or highway, to the Intervale. The Ledges contain the local celebrities. Taking a carriage, or walking, one may visit them in an afternoon, seeing in turn Echo Lake, the Devil's Den, the Cathedral, and Diana's Baths. The picturesque bits of river, meadow, and mountain seen going and returning will make the way seem short, and are certain to detain the artistic traveller. Artists' Falls, on the opposite side of the valley, will repay a visit, if the stream is in good condition. Artists' Brook, on which these falls are, runs from the hills east of the village. A carriage-road leads to the Artists' Falls House, from which a short walk brings one to the falls. This excursion will require not more than two hours. Then there are the drives to Kearsarge village, under the mountain, and back by the Intervale; to Jackson, over Thorn Hill, and back by Goodrich Falls (three to four hours each); to Bartlett Bowlder, by the west, and back by the east side of the valley; to Fryeburg and Mount Chocorua--the last two requiring each half a day at least. The ascent of Kearsarge (from Kearsarge village) or of the Moats (from Diana's Baths) each demands a day to itself. But by starting early in the morning a good climber may ascend and descend Kearsarge, getting back to the village by two o'clock in the afternoon.
_At the Intervale_ he can easily repeat all these experiences, as this is a suburb of North Conway. Let him take his first stroll over the meadows to the river, or among the grand old pines in the forest near the railway station, while preparing for more extended excursions.
_At Glen Station._--While waiting for the luggage to be put on, if the day is perfectly clear, the traveller, by going up the track a few rods, to the bridge over the Ellis, may get a glimpse of the summit of Mount Washington, with the hotel upon the apex; also of Carter Notch. On the way to Jackson he will pass over Goodrich Falls by a bridge. He should not fail to remark the fine cliffs of Iron Mountain, at his left hand, before entering the village. Should he be _en route_ for the Glen House, let him be on the lookout for the Giant's Stairs, on the left, after leaving Jackson, and then for the grand view of Pinkham Notch, with Mount Washington at the left, about four miles beyond Jackson. The summit of Spruce Hill--the scene of the highway robbery in 1881--is the top of the long rise beyond the bridge over Ellis River.
_At Jackson_ we have moved eight miles nearer Mount Washington, in the direction of the Glen House (12 miles) and Gorham (20 miles), and also toward the Carter Notch, distant from the village 9 miles. The excursions back to North Conway are similar to those described from that place. The first thing to do here is to stroll up the Wildcat, and pass an hour or two among the falls on this stream, which begin at the village. A walk or drive up this valley to Fernald's Farm, and back by the opposite side, or over Thorn Hill, are two tempting half-day excursions. In an hour one may walk to Goodrich Falls (road to Glen Station) and back to the village. He may start after breakfast, and drive to Glen Ellis Falls (road to Glen House), eight miles, returning to the hotel for dinner; or, lunching at Glen Ellis, go on one mile farther to the Crystal Cascade; then, dining at the Glen House (3 miles), return at leisure. But it is a mistake to take two such pieces of water in one day. The pedestrian whose base is Jackson, and who makes this trip, should pass the night at the Glen House and return by the Carter Notch, the distance being about the same as by the highway. But he should never try this alone, for fear of a disabling accident. Or he may take the Glen House stage at Jackson early in the afternoon, and, letting it drop him at Glen Ellis, make his own way to the hotel (4 miles) on foot, after a visit to the falls. Apply to Mr. Osgood, the veteran guide, at the Glen House, for services, or directions how to enter the Carter Notch from the Glen House side; and to Jock Davis, who lives at the head of the Wildcat Valley, if going in from the Jackson side.
Ladies who are accustomed to walking can reach Carter Notch with a little help now and then from the gentlemen. But the fatigue of going and returning on the same day would be too great. A party could enter the Notch in the afternoon, pass the night in Davis's comfortable cabin, and return the next morning. The path in is much easier and plainer from the Jackson than from the Glen House side; but there is no difficulty about keeping either. Davis will take up everything necessary for camping out, except food, which may be procured at your hotel before starting. There is plenty of water in the Notch.
_At the Glen House_ one may finish the afternoon by walking back a mile on the Jackson road to the Emerald Pool; or, if he is in the vein, go one mile farther on to Thompson's Falls, and, ascending to the top, look over the forest into Tuckerman's Ravine. The Crystal Cascade (3 miles) and Glen Ellis (4 miles) from the hotel, ought to occupy half a day, but three hours (driving) will suffice, if one is in a hurry. The drive to Jackson, or march into the Notch, are just noted under Jackson. To go into Tuckerman's Ravine by the Crystal Cascade, or by Thompson's Path (Mount Washington carriage-road), will take a whole day. Ladies have been into Tuckerman's; but the trial cannot be recommended except for the most vigorous and courageous. The Appalachian Club has a camp near Hermit Lake, where a party going into the ravine in the afternoon may pass a comfortable night, ascend to the Snow Arch in the morning, and return to the hotel for dinner.
A three-mile walk on the Gorham road, crossing the Peabody River to the Copp Farmhouse, gives a view of the celebrated "Imp" profile, on the top of the opposite mountain. This walk is an affair of two hours and a half. (See art. "Imp" in Index.) The Garnet Pool (one mile from the hotel) may be taken on the way. Or, for a short and interesting stroll, go down this road a half-mile to where the Great Gulf opens wide before you its immense wall of mountains. The carriage-road to the summit requires four hours for the ascent by stage; a good climber can do it on foot in about the same time. Should a storm overtake him above the woods, he can find shelter in the Half-way House, just at the edge of the forest.
[Illustration: INTERIOR OF THE METEOROLOGICAL STATION, MOUNT WASHINGTON.]
_At Crawford's_ one can saunter into the woods at the left of the hotel, and enjoy himself in the sylvan retreat, "Idlewild;" or, going down the road, ascend the Elephant's Head by a path turning in at the left (sign-board), obtaining the view down the Notch; or, continuing on a short distance, enter and examine the Gate of the Notch. All these objects are in full view from the hotel. Other rambles of an hour are to Gibbs' Falls, entering the woods at the left of the hotel (guide-board), or, crossing the bridge over the railroad track on the right, to Beecher's Cascades. The ascent of Mount Willard (3 miles) should on no account be omitted. Good carriage-road all the way, and vehicles from the hotel. The celebrated Crawford Trail to the Summit of Mount Washington, the scene of many exploits, begins in the grove at the left of this hotel. The distance is fully nine miles, and six or seven hours will be none too many for the jaunt. Four intervening mountains, Clinton, Pleasant, Franklin, and Monroe, are crossed. There is a shelter-hut in the woods near the summit of Clinton.
[Illustration: METEOROLOGICAL STATION, MOUNT WASHINGTON, IN WINTER.]
_At Fabyan's._--Three or four hours may be profitably spent on Mount Deception, opposite the hotel. The first summit is as much as one would care to undertake in an afternoon, to get the extended and magnificent view of the great range at sunset. Opposite the hotel is a cosy little cottage, kept open by the railroads for the use of travellers, and to give them information respecting routes, hotels, distances, fares, etc. The Upper Ammonoosuc Falls (3-1/2 miles) are well worth a visit. They are on the Old Turnpike to the base of Mount Washington. The traveller has now at command all the important points in the mountains.
He is 9 miles from the Summit, 4 from Crawford's, 29 from North Conway, 13 from Bethlehem, 22 from the Profile, and 18 from Jefferson--all reached by rail in one or two hours.
_At Bethlehem._--If the tourist locates himself at the "Maplewood," the walk up the mountain to the Observatory, or to Cruft's Ledge, at sunset, or to the village (1-1/2 miles), or down the Whitefield road to The Hollow, is a good introduction. At "The Street" he will find the busiest thoroughfare in the mountains, leading him on to a beautiful panorama of the Ammonoosuc Valley, with Littleton in its lap; or, ascending the old Profile House road above the Sinclair House for a mile, will see the great Franconia mountains from the best view-point. Bethlehem is 9 miles from the Profile House, 13 from Fabyan's, 17 from Crawford's, 42 from North Conway, 15 from Jefferson, and 22 from the Summit.
_At Profile House._--If you arrive by rail via Bethlehem, you have crossed the broad flank and great ravine of Mount Lafayette to the shores of Echo Lake, a mile from the hotel. But the opposite side of this lake is a more eligible site for views of the surrounding mountains; and the summit of Bald Mountain, at its north end, is still better. From the long piazza of the Profile House the great Notch mountains close in toward the south. Cannon Mountain is on your right, with the peculiar rocks giving it this name thrust out from the highest ridge in full view. The woods at the foot of this mountain, filling the pass in front of you, conceal the beautiful Profile Lake, the twin-sister of Echo Lake. The enormous rock at your left is Eagle Cliff, a spur of Mount Lafayette, the mountain being ascended on the south side of this cliff. Improve the first hour of leisure by walking directly down the road to Profile Lake. In a few minutes you will reach the shore near a rustic arbor (guide-board), furnished with seats, and here you command the best view of the renowned "Old Man of the Mountain." Boats may be had here for a sail upon the lake. Return to the hotel by the path through the woods. Walk next up the pass one mile to Echo Lake (boats and fishing-gear at the boat-house); or, extending your jaunt as far as Bald Mountain, obtain, by following the old path through the woods at the right, the best observation of the pass from the north. The trip to the Flume House (including the Basin, Pool, and Flume) is next in order, and will occupy a half day, although the distance is only six miles, and the road excellent. If the forenoon is taken, a party can either return to the hotel for dinner or dine well at the Flume House. The Pool is reached by a path half a mile long, entering the woods opposite the Flume House. It will take an hour to drive to the Flume; and an hour to go into the chasm itself and return is little enough; allowing another hour for the Pool makes four hours for the excursion.
The ascent of Mount Lafayette (3-3/4 miles) demands three to four hours. Saddle-horses can be procured at the hotel. Those unwilling to undertake the whole climb may, by ascending Eagle Cliff (1 mile on same path), secure a grand view of the Notch and lakes, the Profile, the ravines, and the Pemigewasset Valley. A stage leaves the Profile House every morning for Plymouth, connecting with trains for Boston and New York, and permitting the tourist to enjoy the beauties of the Pemigewasset Valley. But it is better to ascend this valley.
_At the Flume House_ (refer to the preceding article).--It is a comparatively easy climb of an hour and a half to the top of Mount Pemigewasset, behind the hotel. See, from the hotel, the outline of the mountain ridge opposite, called Washington Lying in State.
_At Jefferson._--The branch railway from Whitefield (B., C., & M. R.R.) leaves its passengers about three miles from the cluster of hotels and boarding-houses called Jefferson Hill, or five from East Jefferson (E. A. Crawford's, Highland, or Mount Adams House); but carriages are usually in waiting for all these houses. The walks and drives up and down this valley are numerous and interesting, especially so in the direction of Mount Adams and Randolph Hill, Cherry Mountain and Lancaster. The trip over Cherry Mountain, reaching Fabyan's (13 miles) by sunset, or from Fabyan's, reaching Jefferson at this hour, is a memorable experience of mountain beauty. Excursions to Mount Washington, Profile House, Glen House, or Gorham, demand a day. The ascent of Starr King, Owl's Head, Ravine of the Cascades, King's Ravine, or Mount Adams are the _pièces de résistance_ for this locality.
ITINERARY OF A WALKING TOUR.--Two weeks of fine weather will enable a good pedestrian to traverse the mountains from Plymouth to North Conway, or _vice versa_, following the great highways throughout the whole journey, and giving time to see what is on the route. Good hotel accommodation will be found at the end of each day. Should bad weather unsettle his plans, he will nearly always be able to avail himself of regular stage or railway conveyance for a less or greater distance. Thus: First day, Plymouth to Woodstock (dine at Sanborn's, West Campton), 16 miles; second day, Flume House (visiting Flume and Pool), 8 miles; third day, Profile House (visiting Basin and "Old Man"), 5-1/2 miles; fourth day, Bethlehem (_via_ Echo Lake and Franconia), 9 miles; fifth day, Whitefield, 8 miles; sixth day, East Jefferson, 13 miles; seventh day, Glen House, 14 miles; eighth day, for vicinity of Glen House; ninth day, Summit of Mount Washington by carriage-road, 8 miles; tenth day, descent by mountain railway to Crawford's, 13 miles; eleventh day, through the Notch to Bartlett, 13 miles; twelfth day, Jackson and vicinity, 9 miles; thirteenth day, North Conway, 8 miles. Total, 124 miles.
_Advice for Climbers._--Don't hurry when on a level road--keep your strength for the ascent. Always take the long route up a mountain, if it be the easier one. Be careful where you plant the foot in gullied trails or on icy ledges--a sprain is a serious matter if you are alone. Carry in your pocket a flask, fitted with a tumbler or cup; matches that will ignite in the wind, half a dozen cakes of pitch-kindling, a good glass, and a luncheon; in your hand a stout walking-stick; and upon your feet shoes that can be trusted--none of your gimcracks--but broad-soled ones, shod with steel nails. On a long march a rubber overcoat, a haversack, and an umbrella will be needed. Cold tea slakes thirst more effectually than water; but when you are exposed to wet and cold something stronger will be found useful. Should you have a palpitation of the heart, or an inclination to vertigo, do not climb at all. Take quiet rambles instead. My word for it, they are better for you than scaling breathless ascents or looking down over dizzy precipices. If you feel nausea, stop at once until you recover from it. If caught on the Crawford trail between Mounts Clinton and Washington, go back to the hut on the first-named mountain.
_Newspapers for Tourists_, at Bethlehem (_The Echo_) and on the Summit (_Among the Clouds_) are published during the season of travel, giving hotel arrivals, information concerning rail and stage routes, excursions, and whatever may be of interest to the summer population in general.
Telegraphic and telephone communication may be had at all the principal hotels and railway-stations.
The Appalachian Mountain Club prints every year a periodical made up of scientific and literary contributions from its members. Address the club at Boston.
_Trout_, _pickerel_, and _black bass_ are found in all the mountain waters. The State stocks the ponds and streams with trout, bass, and salmon from its breeding-houses at Plymouth. Fishing legally begins May 1. There is good trout-fishing on Swift River (Albany), with Conway for head-quarters. From Jackson, or Glen House, the Wildcat and Ellis are both good trout streams; so are Nineteen-Mile Brook and the West Branch of Peabody; but the Wild River region (from Shelburne, Glen House, or Jackson) affords better sport, because less visited. To go in from Jackson or Glen House a guide will be necessary, and Davis, of Jackson, is a good one. From Jefferson and Randolph the upper waters of the Moose, and Israel's River (especially in the Mount Jefferson ravine), are fished with good success. E. A. Crawford, of East Jefferson, knows the best spots. From Bartlett there should be good fishing on Sawyer's River, above the Livermore mills. Consult Frank George, the veteran landlord of the Bartlett House. From Crawford's the best fishing-ground is Ethan's Pond, behind Mount Willey. At Franconia the writer has seen some fine strings brought from the Copper-mine Brook (back of Mount Kinsman). Fair fishing may also be had on Lafayette Brook--ask Charles Edson, of the Edson House. Profile Lake is stocked with trout for the benefit of guests of the hotel. The upper streams of the Pemigewasset are all good fishing-ground. Apply to Mr. D. P. Pollard, North Woodstock, or Merrill Greeley, Waterville. The houses of both are resorted to by experienced fishermen who track the East Branch or Mad River tributaries. Pickerel and bass are caught in Lakes Winnipiseogee, Squam, Chocorua, Ossipee, and Silver, besides scores of ponds lying chiefly in the lake region.
N.B.--Those going exclusively to fish should go early in the season for the best sport.
_Guides._--The landlords will either accompany you or procure a suitable person.
_Camping Out._--A wall tent is preferable, but two persons get along comfortably in one of the "A" pattern. Get one with the fly, which can be spread behind the tent, thus giving an additional room, in which the cooking and eating may be done under cover. Set up your tent where there is natural drainage--where the surface water will run off during wet weather. Dig a shallow trench around it, on the outside, for this purpose, and if you can obtain them, lay boards for a floor. A kerosene-oil stove, with its utensils, folding cot-bed, camp-chairs, and mess-chest, containing dishes (tin is best), constitute a complete outfit, to be reduced according to convenience or pleasure. To make a woods-man's camp, first set up two crotched posts five feet high, and six or eight apart (according to number). On these lay a pole. From this pole three or four others extend to the ground. Then cut brush or bark for the roof and sides, and build your fire in front. For a camp of this sort a hatchet and packet of matches only are necessary. But always pitch your encampment in the vicinity of wood and water.
_Mount Washington Railway._--Length, from base to summit, 3 miles. Rise in the three miles, 3,625 feet. Steepest grade, 13-1/2 inches in three feet, or 1980 feet to the mile. Begun in 1866; completed in 1869.
_Mount Washington Carriage-road._--Length, 8 miles. Average grade, one foot in eight. Steepest grade, one foot in six. Begun in 1855; finished in 1861.
_Mount Washington Signal Station._--The Summit was first occupied for scientific purposes in the winter of 1870-'71. Since then it has been attached to the Weather Bureau at Washington, and occupied by men detailed from the United States Signal Corps, the men volunteering for the service.
ALTITUDES.--The following list of altitudes of the more important and well-known points has been compiled from the publications of the Geological Survey of New Hampshire and of the Appalachian Mountain Club. The figures in =heavy-face= type are the results either of actual levelling or of trigonometrical survey, while the remainder depend upon barometrical measurement. Where the mean of two not widely-differing authorities is given, the fact is denoted by the letter "_m_" preceding the figures:
MOUNTAIN SUMMITS.
Adams-----_m_ 5785 Ascutney (Vermont)-----3186 Black (Sandwich Dome)-----=3999= Boott's Spur-----5524 Cannon-----3850 Carrigain-----_m_ 4651 Carter Dome-----_m_ 4827 Chocorua-----3540 Clay-----5553 Clinton-----_m_ 4315 Crawford-----3134 Giant's Stairs-----3500 Gunstock-----=2394= Iron-----_about_ 2000 Jefferson-----5714 Kearsarge, S. (Merrimack County)-----=2943= Kearsarge, N. (Carroll County)-----=3251= Lafayette-----=5259= Madison-----_m_ 5350 Moat (North peak)-----3200 Monadnock-----_m_ 3177 Monroe-----_m_ 5375 Moosilauke-----=4811= Moriah-----4653 Osceola-----_m_ 4408 Passaconnaway-----4200 Percy (North peak)-----3336 Pleasant (Great range)-----_m_ 4768 Pleasant (Maine)-----=2021= Starr King-----_m_ 3872 Twin-----_about_ 5000 Washington-----=6293= Webster-----4000 Whiteface-----=4007= Willey-----4300
VILLAGES AND HOTELS.
Bartlett (Upper)-----=660= Bethlehem (Sinclair House)-----_m_ 1454 Franconia-----921 Crawford House-----=1899= Fabyan "-----1571 Flume "-----1431 Glen "-----=1632= Gorham-----=812= Jackson-----759 Jefferson Hill-----1440 Jefferson Highlands (Mt. Adams House)-----1648 Lancaster-----=870= North Conway-----=521= Plymouth-----=473= Profile House-----1974 Sugar Hill (Post Office)-----1351 Waterville (Greeley's Hotel)-----_m_ 1544 Willey House-----=1323=
NOTCHES.
Carter Notch-----3240 Cherry Mt. Road (summit)-----_m_ 2180 Crawford or White Mt. Notch-----=1914= Dixville Notch-----1831 Franconia Notch-----_m_ 2015 Pinkham Notch (south of Glen House)-----2018 Carrigain Notch-----2465
MISCELLANEOUS.
Ammonoosuc Sta. (base of Mt. Washington)-----=2668= Camp of Appalachian Mountain Club, on the -----Mt. Adams path-----3307 Echo Lake (Franconia)-----_m_ 1928 Lake of the Clouds-----5053 Lake Winnipiseogee-----=500=
_Distant Points Visible from Mount Washington_ (taken from "Appalachia").--Mount Megantic (Canada), 86 miles, seen between Jefferson and Adams; Mount Carmel, 65 miles, just over Mount Adams; Saddleback, 60 miles, head of Rangely Lakes; Mount Abraham, 68 miles, N., 47° E.; Ebene Mountain, 135 miles, vicinity of Moosehead Lake (rarely seen, even with a telescope); Mount Blue, 57 miles, near Farmington, Me.; Sebago Lake, 43 miles, over Mount Doublehead; Portland, 67 miles, over Lake Sebago; Mount Agamenticus, 79 miles, between Kearsarge and Moat Mountains; Isles of Shoals, 96 miles, to the right of Agamenticus (rarely seen); Mount Monadnock, 104 miles, between Carrigain and Sandwich Dome; Mount Ascutney (Vt.), 81 miles, S., 45° W.; Killington Peaks (near Rutland, Vt.), 88 miles, on the horizon between Moosilauk and Lincoln; Camel's Hump (Vt), 78 miles, over Bethlehem Street; Mount Whiteface (Adirondack chain, N.Y.), 130 miles, over the right slope of Camel's Hump; Mount Mansfield (highest of Green Mountains), 77 miles, between Twin Mountain House and Mount Deception; Mount Wachusett (Mass.), 126 miles, is also visible under favorable conditions, just to the right of Whiteface (N. H.).
MOUNTAIN PATHS. [Those with an asterisk (*) were built by the Appalachian Mountain Club.] _Chocorua._--There are three or four paths. The best leads from the Hammond Farm, 2-1/2 miles from the Chocorua Lake House, and 14 miles from North Conway. The ascent, as far as the foot of the final peak, is feasible for ladies. From this point the easiest way is to flank the peak to the left until an old watercourse is reached, which may be followed nearly to the summit.
*_Moat._--An old path leads from the Swift River road to the summit of the South Peak. Another, from the clearings on an old road which extends along the base of the South Peak, leads to the top of the middle ridge; but the best path for tourists is the one from Diana's Baths, on Cedar Brook, following the stream to the foot of the ridge, thence over the ridge to the summit of the North Peak. Path well made, and plainly marked with signs and cairns; about 3-1/2 miles in length.
*_Middle Mountain, North Conway._--Beginning at the ice-ponds near Artists' Falls House, the path extends around the base of Peaked Mountain, thence to the bare ledges which reach to the summit. Distance, 1-5/8 miles. Path well marked, and the view very beautiful.
_Kearsarge, North Conway._--A bridle-path starts from a farm-house near Kearsarge Village, and extends to the summit. Distance, nearly 3 miles. Route plain, and not difficult.
*_Mount Bartlett._--The path starts near the Pequawket House, Lower Bartlett, follows old logging roads for some distance, runs thence directly to the summit. From the summit the path extends along the ridge until it joins the bridle-path to Kearsarge.
*_Carrigain._--The route leads from the mills at Livermore, which are reached by a road leaving the P. & O. R.R. at Livermore Station. From the mills, logging roads are followed--crossing Duck Pond and Carrigain Brooks--to the base; thence by a plain path through a fine forest to "Burnt Hat Ridge," from which it is only a short distance to the summit.
From mills to summit is about 5 miles. Station to mills, 2 miles.
*_Livermore-Waterville Path._--This is intended for a bridle-path. Starting from the mills at Livermore, a logging-road is followed nearly two miles on the southerly side of Sawyer's River. Here the path begins and runs along the north-west base of Green's Cliff, crosses Swift River at a beautiful fall, thence through the Notch south of Mount Kancamagus to Greeley's, in Waterville. The path is well marked by painted signs. Distance from Livermore to Swift River, 5 miles; to Greeley's, 12 miles.
*_Mount Willey._--Path leaves the P. & O. R.R. a little south of Willey Station. The rise is rapid until the Brook Kedron is reached; this brook is then followed to its source, thence the path leads direct to the summit. Distance, 1-1/2 miles. The climb is steep; but the view unsurpassed.
_Crawford Bridle-path_ leads from the Crawford House to the summit of Washington. Path is plain, and the travelling along the ridge is easy; but it is not in condition for horses. See pp. 325, 326.
*_Carter Notch._--Path begins near the end of the Wildcat Valley road, about 5-1/2 miles from Jackson; thence it follows the valley of the brook to the ponds in the Notch. From the ponds it follows Nineteen Mile Brook to the clearing back of the Glen House. The travelling is easy; the view in the Notch grand.
Distance from the road to the ponds, about 4 miles; from the ponds to the Glen House, about the same.
*_Carter Dome._--The path starts from the larger pond in the Notch, and is well marked to the summit. It is very steep, and about 1-1/2 miles in length.
_Great Gulf._--A path beginning near the Glen House goes through this gorge. From the end of the path the carriage-road or railroad on Mount Washington may be reached by a severe climb up the side of the ravine.
_Tuckerman's Ravine._--The Glen House path leaves the Mount Washington carriage-road about 2 miles up, then crosses through the forest to Hermit Lake.
*_Via Crystal Cascade._--The Mountain Club path begins about 3 miles from the Glen House, on the Jackson road, ascending the stream until it joins the Glen House path near Hermit Lake. Here the Club has a good camp for the use of travellers. Beyond, a single path extends to the Snow-field; and a feasible route has been marked with white paint on the rocks--up the head wall of the ravine, and thence to the summit.
*_Mount Adams._--This path starts opposite the residence of Charles E. Lowe, on the road from Jefferson Hill to Gorham, about 8-1/2 miles from either town, and climbs the steep spur forming one wall of King's Ravine, following over the ledges to the westerly peak, thence to the summit. Distance, about 4 miles. Nearly half way up the spur a good camp has been built for the use of climbers. The way over the ledges is marked by cairns. Mount Jefferson may be reached by turning to the right before reaching the summit of the westerly peak; Madison by turning to the left.
*_King's Ravine._--The path branches from the Mount Adams path about 1-1/2 miles from Lowe's. The bowlders in the Ravine are reached without great difficulty. From the bowlders up the head-wall, and through the gate-way, the climb is arduous; and the way is not very distinctly marked. From the gate-way, Madison and the several peaks of Adams may be reached.
_Mount Madison._--There are several routes up Madison, but the best is probably that leading up the ridge from "Dolly" Copp's, on the Old Pinkham Road. The climb is tedious, and the path somewhat overgrown. The Mountain Club will probably clear and keep this path in good condition.
*_Bridal Veil Falls._--Path starts from Horace Brooks's, on the road from Franconia to Easton--2 to 3 miles from Sugar Hill and Franconia Village. It follows an old road across the clearings to Copper-mine Brook, thence by the brook to the foot of the Falls. Distance, 2-1/2 miles from Brooks's. Walking easy.
The path to the Flume on Mount Kinsman leads from the same highway about a mile beyond Brooks's.
_Mount Lafayette._--The bridle-path begins near the Profile House, turning Eagle Cliff, and crossing over to the main ridge. It leads nearly to the summit of the ridge, thence across the col by the lakes, and up the main peak. Distance, 3-1/2 to 3-3/4 miles.
_Mount Cannon._--The path enters the forest near the cottages in front of the Profile House. The summit is reached by a steep climb of 1-1/2 miles. The Cannon Rock is a short distance down the mountain-side, to the left of the path as it emerges from the forest; the forehead rock of the Profile can be reached by bearing down the mountain diagonally to the right from Cannon Rock until the edge of the cliff is reached. It is a hard scramble to the latter.
_Black Mountain, Waterville._--The new path leaves the highway 2 miles below Greeley's, near Drake's Brook. It runs near the edge of the ravine of Drake's Brook, crosses the ridge between Noon and Jennings' Peaks--to each of which a branch path leads--thence up the northerly slope of the main summit. Distance from the road to the summit is 3-1/4 miles. The views are very fine, and the climb easy for ordinary walkers.
_Osceola._--Path leaves the Greeley-pond path beyond the saw-mill above Greeley's, bearing to the left. Ascent easy. Distance, about 4 miles.
_Tecumseh._--Path branches from the Osceola path at the crossing of the west branch of Mad River, 7/8 of a mile from Greeley's. The grade is easy, except for a short distance near the summit. Distance from Greeley's, 3 miles.
_Tri-Pyramid._--The great slide on Tri-Pyramid may be reached from Greeley's by a path across the pasture to the right from the rear of the house, thence about 1-1/2 miles through fine old woods to a deserted clearing known as Beckytown. From here the stream may be followed by clambering over the _débris_ of the slide nearly 2 miles to the base of the South Peak. The summit is reached by climbing to the apex of the slide, thence bearing up to the right a short distance through low woods.
*_Thornton-Warren Path._--This path was built to enable visitors in the Upper Pemigewasset Valley or in Warren to cross from one locality to the other, avoiding the long détour _via_ Plymouth. It starts from the Profile House stage-road at the junction of the Tannery road, in West Thornton, crosses Hubbard Brook at this point, and passes over a long stretch of pasture until the woods are reached. At this point, and at all doubtful points, signs have been placed. For much of the distance the path follows Hubbard Brook, and passes out through the Notch between Mounts Kineo and Cushman to an old road-way leading to clearings on Baker's River, near the mountain-houses at the foot of Mount Moosilauke.
Distance from the stage-road to the road-way in Warren, 8 miles. A permanent camp has been built half-way on Hubbard Brook.
A trail has been spotted from a point in the path about 1 mile north of the camp to the summit of Kineo.
INDEX.
Refer to a mountain, lake, or river, under its proper name, thus: Washington (Mount); Squam (Lake); Saco (River).
The abbreviations in parentheses show that the town or village is on the line of a railway: (E. R.R.) stands for Eastern; (P. & O.), Portland and Ogdensburg; (B., C., & M.), Boston, Concord, and Montreal; (G. T. R.), Grand Trunk; (Pass.), Passumpsic.
ADAMS, Mount, from North Conway, 55; from Thorn Hill, 122; from Wildcat Valley, 133; from Carter Dome, 142; from the Glen House, 145; from Mount Washington carriage-road, 181; ascent by King's Ravine, 298; ascent from Mount Washington, 312-315; the apex, 315; view from, 316.
Adirondacks, from Moosehillock, 273.
Agassiz, Mount, from Profile House Road, 249, 276.
Agiochook, or Agiockochook (Indian name for the White Mountains), 120.
Amherst, Sir Jeffrey (Gen.), in the French War, 259.
Ammonoosuc, Falls of, 304.
Ammonoosuc River, source of, 179.
Ammonoosuc Valley, from Mount Clinton, 98; at Bethlehem, 277; at Fabyan's, 300.
Androscoggin River, at Gorham, 170; at Berlin, 174; at Shelburne, 176; at Bethel, 177.
Appalachian Mountain Club, 62, 221.
Artists' Falls (North Conway), 46, 47.
Autumn foliage, 66, 67.
BAKER'S RIVER (branch of Pemigewasset, branch of the Merrimack), 210; falls on, 269.
Bald Mountain, an inferior summit of Chocorua, 26.
Ball, B. L., lost on Mount Washington, 186.
Bartlett Bowlder, 58.
Bartlett (P. & O. R.R.), mountains surrounding, 61, 62; ascent of Mount Carrigain from, 62-65.
Basin (Franconia Pass), 231.
Beecher's Cascade (near Crawford House), 89.
Belknap, Jeremy, D.D. (historian of New Hampshire), quoted, 69.
Belknap, Mount (Lake Winnipiseogee), 8.
Bemis, Dr. Samuel A., home of, 69, 70.
Berlin (G. T. R.), 172; the Falls, 174, 175.
Bethel, Maine (G. T. R.), 177.
Bethlehem (B., C., & M. R.R.), 276; admirable position of as a centre, 277; Bethlehem Street, 278, 279; fine views from, 280, 281; a sunset from the "Maplewood," 282-284; White Mountains from, 284; the Hermit, 286; the peddler, 288.
Bigelow's Lawn (Mount Washington), 198.
Black Mountain (Sandwich Dome), from West Campton, 216; Noon Peak, 220; from Waterville (Greeley's), 221.
Boott's Spur (Mount Washington), 146; from the plateau, 198.
Bourne, Lizzie, death of, on Mount Washington, 310.
Bridal Veil Falls (Mount Kinsman), 255.
Brown, George L. (painter), referred to, 253.
Buck-board wagon described, 273.
CAMPTON, 211; Campton Hollow, 214; West Campton, and view from, 215; Sanborn's, 216; annals of Campton, 216.
Campton Village (Pemigewasset Valley), 218.
Cannon (or Profile) Mountain, from West Campton, 215; from the clearing below the Profile, 231; remarkable profile on, 232; from Franconia, 252.
Carrigain, Mount, from Chocorua, 30; from Bartlett, 62; ascent from Bartlett, 62-64; view from summit, 64, 65.
Carrigain Notch, from Mount Chocorua, 30; from Mount Carrigain, 64.
Carter Dome, 133; the Pulpit, 136; ascent of, and view from, 140, 141.
Carter Mountains, from Gorham, 170.
Carter Notch, from Chocorua, 31; from North Conway, 40; from Thorn Hill, 122, 132; way into, from Jackson, 132; impressive desolation of the interior, 137; the Giants' Barricade, 137, 138; the lakes, 139; way out to Glen House, 143.
Castellated Ridge (Mount Jefferson), 314.
Cathedral (North Conway), 46.
Cathedral Ledge (North Conway), 41, 42.
Cathedral Woods (North Conway), 55.
Centre Harbor, approach to, by Lake Winnipiseogee, 8-10; settled, 10; route by stage to West Ossipee _via_ Sandwich and Tamworth, 18-21.
Chandler, Benjamin, lost on Mount Washington, 186.
Cherry Mountain (Valley of Israel's River), 291; Owl's Head, 292; road to Fabyan's, 300.
Chocorua, Lake, from the mountain, 29, 31, 32.
Chocorua (Sho'kor'ua), Mount, from Lake Winnipiseogee, 9; from Red Hill, 16; legend of, 21; ascent from Tamworth, 25-28; landscapes from, 29-31; from Mount Willard, 92.
Clay, Mount (next north of Washington), 169; ascent of, 312.
Clinton, Mount (near Crawford House), 97; view from summit, 100. (First mountain ascended by Crawford Path.)
Connecticut Ox-Bow, 256-258.
Conway, or Conway Corner (E. R.R.), superb view of the great chain from, 33.
Copp Farm (view-point for seeing "The Imp"), 165.
Copp, Nathaniel, his adventurous deer-hunt, 167.
Copper-mine Brook (branch of Gale River), 255.
Crawford, Abel, described, 70-72.
Crawford, Ethan Allen, 71, 72; his burial-place, 302.
Crawford bridle-path, opened, 89; march to the summit (_see_ Chapter X.); Mount Clinton first, 117; the crystal forests, 98; Liliputian wood, 99; fine view from summit, 100; frost-work, 100; Mount Pleasant next, 102; in a snow-storm, 102; crossing the ridge, 103; Oakes's Gulf, 103; Mount Franklin next, 103; (_water here_) weird objects by the way, 104; Mount Monroe next (two peaks, with shallow ponds near the path); the plateau, 105; base of the cone reached, 105; ascent of the cone, 107; the stone corral, 107; the summit, 108.
Crawford Glen (Saco Valley), 69.
Crawford House (summit of Crawford Notch), its surroundings, 87-94.
Crawford, Mount (Saco Valley, east side), 69; Davis Path to Mount Washington, 73; view of from Frankenstein Bridge, 74.
Crawford Notch (_see_ Great Notch of the White Mountains).
Crawford, T. J., opens a bridle-path to the summit, 89.
Crystal Cascade (Pinkham Notch), 149, 150.
DARTMOUTH, _see_ Jefferson.
Davis Path (to Mount Washington), 73; junction with Crawford Path, 198.
Deception, Mount (near Fabyan's), 300.
Destruction of mountain forests, 172.
Devil's Den (North Conway), 45, 46.
Diana's Baths (North Conway ), 46.
Douglass, William, M.D., quoted, on the origin of the name White Mountains, 121, _note_.
Dwight, Timothy, L.L.D., 71 (_see_ his "Travels in New England," and journeys through the mountains).
EAGLE CLIFF (Franconia Pass), from Flume House, 225; from Profile House, 238, 239; ascent by the bridle-path, 243; from Franconia, 254.
Eagle Lakes (Mount Lafayette), 244. (Also called Cloud Lakes.)
Eagle Mountain (Eagle Mountain House), Wildcat Valley, Jackson, 133.
Early settlements by white people, 216, 217, 293.
Echo Lake (Franconia Pass), 239.
Echo Lake (North Conway), 45.
Elephant's Head (Crawford Notch), 87.
Ellis River (branch of the Saco; rises in Pinkham Notch), _see_ Goodrich Falls, 125; Glen Ellis Falls, 151; incident connected with, 153.
Emerald Pool (near Glen House, Pinkham Notch), 147, 148.
Endicott Rock, a surveyor's monument at the outlet of Lake Winnipiseogee, 10.
FABYAN'S (B., C., & M. and P. & O. R.R.), view at, 300; Mount Washington Railway, 301; Eleazer Rosebrook and E. A. Crawford, 302, 303.
Fall of a Thousand Streams, 162.
Farmer, John (historian), quoted, 210.
Field, Darby, makes the first ascent of Mount Washington, 116-119; second ascent, 119, _see note_.
Flume (Franconia Pass), way to and description of, 226-228.
Flume Cascade, _see_ description by Dr. T. Dwight, in his "Travels in New England."
Flume House (Franconia Pass), 224.
Franconia Mountains, from West Campton, 215; from Bethlehem, 280; from Jefferson, 292.
Franconia Pass (Chapters II. and III., Third Journey), Flume House, 224; the Pool, 225; the Flume, 226; the Basin, 231; Mounts Cannon and Lafayette, 231, 232; the "Old Man," 232; Profile Lake, 232; Profile House, 237; Eagle Cliff, 238; Echo Lake, 239; sunset in the pass, 240; from Bethlehem heights, 279.
Franconia village (Iron Works), from Mount Lafayette, 243; general view of, 251; fine views in, 253, 254.
Frankenstein Cliff (Saco Valley), named, 73; appearance of, from the valley, 73, 74; the bridge, 74.
Fryeburg, Maine (P. & O. R.R.), 33-38.
GALE RIVER (branch of the Ammonoosuc, branch of the Connecticut), 243.
Garfield, Mount (_see_ Haystack), 284.
Giant's Stairs (Saco Valley, east side), 73; from Jackson, 123, 129.
Gibbs's Falls (near Crawford House), 97.
Glen Ellis Falls, 151, 152; legend of, 152.
Glen House, way to, by Jackson and Carter Notch, 131; its surroundings, 144; carriage-road to the summit, 144; Mount Washington from, 144, 145; Emerald Pool, 147, 148; Thompson's Falls, 146; Crystal Cascade, 149; Glen Ellis Falls, 151; Tuckerman's Ravine, 155; The Imp, 165; to or from Gorham, 165, 170; from Mount Washington carriage-road, 181.
Goodenow's, _see_ Sugar Hill.
Goodrich Falls (Ellis River), 125.
Gorham (G. T. R.), its situation, 169.
Grand Monadnock, from Red Hill, 17; from Mount Washington, 192.
Great Gulf, from Glen House, 165; from Mount Washington carriage-road, 181, 185; from Mount Clay, 313.
Great Notch of the White Mountains (Crawford Notch), from Mount Chocorua, 31; from Mount Carrigain, 64, 65; approach to, by the Saco Valley, 76; the mountains forming it, 77; Willey, or Notch House, 77; landslip of 1826, 79, 80; the Cascades, 84, 85, 89, 97; Gate of the Notch, 86; summit of the Notch (Crawford House), 86; Elephant's Head, 87; discovery of the Pass, 88, 89; the Notch from Mount Willard, 91; from Mount Clinton, 100.
Greeley's, _see_ Waterville.
Green Mountains, from Mount Washington, 190; from Moosehillock, 273.
Gyles, John (Capt.), quoted on the Indian name for the White Mountains, 120.
Hancock, Mount, from the Ellsworth road (Campton), 216; from Moosehillock, 272.
Hart's Ledge (Saco Valley, east side, near Bartlett), 62.
Haverhill (B., C., & M. R.R.), 257.
Hawthorne, Nathaniel, origin of his story of "The Great Carbuncle," 119; death of, 209; legend of "The Great Stone Face," 235.
Hayes, Mount (Gorham, New Hampshire), 169-171.
Haystack, Mount (now Mount Garfield), 254.
Hermit Lake (Tuckerman's Ravine, Mount Washington), 159.
Hitchcock, C. H. (geologist), 197.
Humphrey's Ledge (near Glen Station), 41.
Hunter, Harry W., lost on Mount Washington, 199, _note_.
Huntington's Ravine, from Carter Dome, 142.
Idlewild (near Crawford House), 89.
Imp, The (rock profile near Glen House), 166.
Indians, customs of mountain tribes, 10; Sokokis, or Pigwackets, or _Pequawkets_, destruction of by Love-well, 34-38; Indian names, 24, 25, _note_; superstitions regarding the high summits, traditions, etc. (_see_ Chapter I., Second Journey); attack Shelburne, 177; at Plymouth, 210; attack Dartmouth (Jefferson), 294.
Intervale (North Conway, E. R.R. and P. & O. R.R.), superb panorama from, 55-57; _see_ art. North Conway.
Israel's River (branch of the Connecticut), 291.
Jackson (_see_ Chapters II. and III., Second Journey), 122-143; how to get there from North Conway, 122; its topography, 123; Jackson Falls (on Wildcat River), 124; Fernald's Farm, 130; Wildcat Valley, 133; to Carter Notch, 133-140.
Jackson, C. T. (geologist), quoted, 197, _note_.
Jackson Falls (Wildcat River), 124.
Jefferson, Mount, from Jefferson Hill, 293; Ravine of the Cascades, 297; ascent from Mount Washington, 312; Ravine of the Castles, 313; Castellated Ridge, 314.
Jefferson (branch R.R. from Whitefield), 291; Jefferson Hill, 292; antecedents of, 293; Indian attack on, 294; East Jefferson, 295; to Randolph Hill, 297; to Fabyan's, 300.
Jockey Cap (Fryeburg, Maine), 34.
Josselyn, John (author of "New England's Rarities"), ascends Mount Washington, 119.
Kearsarge, Mount, from North Conway, 39, 40, 41; winter ascent of, 47-54; view from summit, 51, 52; from Bartlett, 62; from Carter Dome, 141.
King, Thomas Starr, tribute to, 294, 295.
King's Ravine (Mount Adams), from Randolph Hill, 298; from Mount Adams, 317.
Kinsman, Mount (next south of Cannon, Franconia group), 244, 252.
Lafayette, Mount, from West Campton, 215; _see_ Chapter III., Third Journey; Eagle Cliff, 238, 239; from Echo Lake, 240; ascent from the Profile House, 243-247; the Notch, 243; the ravines, 243-254; Eagle Lakes, 244; summit and view, 246, 247; from Franconia Iron Works, 252; from Newbury, Vermont, 258; from Bethlehem heights, 279.
Lake of the Clouds (Mount Washington), 198.
Lary's (Gorham, New Hampshire), 171.
Lead Mine Bridge (Shelburne, G. T. R.), grand view from, 175, 176.
Legends of General Hampton and the Devil, 11-14; of Mount Chocorua, 21-24; of Passaconnaway, 24, 25, _note_; Indian tradition of the Deluge, 114; the Indian's heaven, 115; the Great Carbuncle, 115; the war party and its prisoners, 127, 128; the youthful lovers, 128; of Glen Ellis Falls, 152; of the Silver Image, 263.
Lion's Head (Tuckerman's Ravine), 142, 146, 159.
Lisbon (B., C., & M. R.R.), discovery of gold ores in, 251.
Littleton (B., C., & M. R.R.), from Bethlehem, 279.
Livermore (P. & O. R.R.), Saco Valley, logging hamlet of, 63; way to the Pemigewasset, 221.
Livermore Falls (Pemigewasset River), 212.
Logging on the Androscoggin, 173, 174.
Lonesome Lake (Mount Kinsman), 244.
Long Island, Lake Winnipiseogee, east shore, 9.
Lovewell, John (captain of colonial rangers), battle with the Sokokis, 34-38.
Lovewell's Pond (scene of Lovewell's fight), 34.
Lowell, Mount (Saco Valley), slide on, 64.
MAD RIVER and Valley (branch of Pemigewasset), 218.
Madison, Mount (next north of Adams), 165.
Marsh, Sylvester, projector of Mount Washington railway, 301.
Merrimack River, source of, 65.
Moat Range, position of, 39; cliffs of, 40, 41, 44; the ascent, 47; from Jackson Falls, 124.
Monroe, Mount, from Tuckerman's Ravine, 160.
Moose River (branch of Androscoggin), 171.
Moosehillock, or Moosilauke, from Lake Winnipiseogee, 10; from Chocorua, 30; from Pemigewasset Valley, 223; from Newbury, Vermont, 258; _see_ Chapter VII., Third Journey, 269-275; how to reach the mountain, 269; the mountain's top, 271; view from, 273; from Bethlehem, 279.
Moriah, Mount (Carter Chain, near Gorham), 169.
Mountain Butterfly, 202.
NANCY'S BROOK (Saco Valley), story of, 67-69.
Newbury, Vermont (Pass. R.R.), 257.
Nineteen Mile Brook (branch of the Peabody River, a branch of the Androscoggin; rises in Carter Notch), 143.
North Conway (E. R.R. and P. & O. R.R.), topographical features of, 39-41; excursions from, 57; _see_ Intervale, White Horse Ledge, Cathedral Ledge, Humphrey's Ledge, Echo Lake, Diana's Baths, Artists' Falls, Kearsarge and Moat Mountains, etc.
OAKE'S GULF (in great range), 103.
Old Man of the Mountain (Franconia Pass), 231-236; legends of, 235.
Ossipee Mountains, from Lake Winnipiseogee, 8.
Owl's Head (Lake Memphremagog), from Moosehillock, 273; Cherry Mountain, 292.
PEABODY RIVER (branch of the Androscoggin; rises in Pinkham Notch), 144, 154, _note_.
Pemigewasset River, branch of Merrimack, 210; Livermore Falls, 211; East Branch, 223.
Pemigewasset, Mount (near Flume House), ascent and view, 229.
Pemigewasset Valley (Chapter I., Third Journey), 210-223; villages of, 212.
Pemigewasset Wilderness, way through, 221, 229.
Percy Peaks, 280, note.
Perkins Notch, position of, 133.
Pilot Mountains from Gorham, 170; origin of name, 170, 171.
Pine Mountain (Gorham, New Hampshire), 170.
Pinkham Notch from Thorn Hill, 122; from the road between Jackson and Glen House, 129; from Glen House, 144; _see_ Thompson's Falls, Emerald Pool, Crystal Cascade, Tuckerman's Ravine, Glen Ellis Falls, etc., 144-164.
Pleasant, Mount, from Fabyan's, 300.
Plymouth (B., C., & M. R.R.), 209; routes through the mountains, 211.
Pool, The (Franconia Pass), 225.
Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad, passage of the White Mountains Notch, 93.
Prime, W. C., referred to, 244.
Profile House (Franconia Pass), its attractions, 237-240; _see_ Old Man, Profile Lake, Mounts Cannon and Lafayette, Eagle Cliff, Echo Lake, etc.; to Bethlehem by the old highway via Franconia, 248; by rail, 248.
Profile Lake (Franconia Pass), 232.
Prospect, Mount (Holderness), 214.
RANDOLPH HILL, drive to, and view from, 297, 298.
Ravine of the Castles (Mount Jefferson), 313.
Raymond's Cataract, from Carter Dome, 142; from Pinkham Notch, 147; see Tuckerman's Ravine.
Red Hill from Lake Winnipiseogee, 10; ascent of, from Centre Harbor, and view from summit, 14-17.
Ripley Falls (on Cow Brook, Saco Valley), 89.
Rogers's, Robert (Major), account of the White Mountains, 119, 121, note; destroys St. Francis, 259; _see_ Chapter VI., Third Journey.
Rosebrook, Eleazer, sketch of, 302, 303.
SACO VALLEY (Chapters IV. to IX., inclusive), from Mount Chocorua, 31; at Fryeburg (Maine), 33; at North Conway, 39; at Bartlett, 61-65; from Mount Carrigain, 64, 65; source of the Saco, 88; historical incident, 153.
Sandwich Mountains from Lake Winnipiseogee, 8; from Sandwich Centre, 19; from Tamworth (Nickerson's), 24.
Sandwich (town of), mountains near, 19.
Sandwich Notch, position of, 218.
Sawyer's River (branch of the Saco), valley of, 62, 63.
Sawyer's Rock (Saco Valley, west side, near Bartlett), 62.
Schoolcraft, Henry Rowe, quoted on the Indian name for the White Mountains, 120.
Silver Cascade (Crawford Notch), 85.
Snow Arch (Tuckerman's Ravine), 161, 162.
Spencer, Jabez (General), settles Campton, 216.
Squam Lake from Red Hill, 16.
St. Francis de Sales, sacked by Rogers, 259; _see_ Chapter VI., Third Journey.
Star Lake (Mount Adams), 317.
Stark, John (General), captured by Indians, 210, 211.
Stark, William, 210, 211.
Starr King Mountain, 291.
Storm Lake (between Madison and Adams), 317.
Sugar Hill, from Profile House road, 249; view from, 252, 253.
Sullivan, James (Governor of Massachusetts), his authority for the story of "The Great Carbuncle," 116; quoted, 153.
Swift River (branch of the Saco), from Mount Chocorua, 30.
TAMWORTH IRON WORKS (point from which Chocorua is usually ascended), 21, 25.
Thompson's Falls (near Glen House), 146.
Thorn Mountain, from North Conway, 40; walk over Thorn Hill (lower spur of Thorn Mountain) to Jackson, 122, 132.
Tripyramid Mountain, from Mad River Valley, 219; slide on, 221.
Trout-breeding, State establishment at Plymouth, 212.
Trout-fishing begins in New Hampshire May 1, 213.
Trumbull, J. Hammond, LL.D., quoted on the Indian names for the White Mountains, 120, _note_.
Tuckerman's Ravine from Mount Kearsarge, 51; from Carter Dome, 142; from Thompson's Falls, 146; way into from Glen House, 156; appearance from Glen House, 156; Hermit Lake and Lion's Head Crag, 159; Snow Arch, 161; head wall, 162; out by the path to Crystal Cascade, 164.
VIEWS, from Red Hill, 14-17; from Chocorua, 29-31; from Jockey Cap, 34; from Conway Corner, 33; from North Conway, 40; from Mount Kearsarge, 51; from the Intervale (North Conway), 55-57; from Mount Carrigain, 64, 65; from above Bemis's, 74; from Mount Willard, 91; from Mount Clinton, 100; from Carter Dome, 141; from Glen House, 145; from Gorham, 169; from Berlin, 172, 175; from Shelburne (Lead Mine Bridge), 176; from Mount Washington carriage-road, 181, 185; from the summit, 189-192; from West Campton, 215; from the Ellsworth road (Pemigewasset valley), 216; from Mount Pemigewasset (Flume House), 229; from Mount Lafayette, 246; from Sugar Hill, 252; from the foot of Bethlehem heights (Gale River valley), 254; from Moosehillock, 272; from Bethlehem, 280, 281; from Jefferson Hill, 292; from East Jefferson, 295; from Randolph Hill, 297; from Mount Adams, 316.
WARREN (B., C., & M. R.R.), point from which to ascend Moosehillock, 269.
Washington, Mount, River (formerly Dry River), grand view of the high summits up this valley from P. & O. R.R., 74; the valley from Mount Clinton, 100.
Washington, Mount, carriage-road, 178; Half-way House and the Ledge, 180; Great Gulf, 181; accident on, 183; Willis's Seat, and the view 185; Cow Pasture, 186; Dr. Ball's adventure, 186; fate of a climber, 186; up the pinnacle, 186; United States Meteorological Station, 187; the summit, 188.
Washington, Mount, from Lake Winnipiseogee, 9; from Mount Chocorua, 31; from Conway, 33; from North Conway, 40; from Mount Kearsarge, 51; from Mount Carrigain, 65; first path to, 71; Davis path, 73; view near Bemis's (P. & O. R.R.), 74; Crawford bridle-path opened, 89; from Mount Willard, 93; from Mount Clinton, 100; first ascension, 116-119; Indian traditions of, _see_ Chapter I., Second Journey; from Thorn Hill, 122; from the Wildcat Valley, 133; from Carter Dome, 142; from Glen House, 144; from the Glen House and Gorham road, 168; carriage-road, _see_ Chapter VII., Second Journey; the Signal Station, 187, 196; a winter tornado on the summit, 192-194; shadow of the mountain, 195; the plateau--its floral and entomological treasures, 197, 198; transported bowlders on, 197; Lake of the Clouds, 198; from Mount Lafayette, 246; travellers lost on, 186, 199, 310; from Moosehillock, 270; from Bethlehem, 281, 282; from Fabyan's, 300; railway to summit, 301-306; moonlight on the summit, 311; sunrise, 312; sunset, 318.
Washington, Mount, Railway, from Fabyan's, 301; to the base, 304; its mechanism, 305; Jacob's Ladder, 305; up the mountain, 306, 307; the Summit Hotel, 307.
Waterville (Mad River valley), the neighborhood, 219; path to Livermore, 221.
Webster, Daniel, at Fryeburg, Maine, 33.
Webster, Mount, approach to, 75; from Mount Willard, 92.
Weirs (B., C., & M. R.R.), Lake Winnipiseogee, west shore, 10, _see note_.
Welch Mountain (Pemigewasset valley), 218.
Whipple, Joseph (Colonel), settles at Jefferson, 294.
White Horse Ledge (North Conway), 41.
White Mountains, general view of, from Conway, 33; from North Conway, 40; from Mount Carrigain (in mass), 65; legends of, _see_ Chapter 1., Second Journey; first ascensions, 116-119; how named, 119, 120; appearance from the coast, 120, 121; from Mount Lafayette, 246; from Bethlehem, 281; from Fabyan's, 300.
Wildcat River (branch of the Ellis, a branch of the Saco; rises in Carter Notch), Jackson Falls on, 124; disappearance of, 136.
Wildcat Mountain (one of Carter Notch and Pinkham Notch Mountains), position of, 123; avalanche of bowlders, 136; appearance from Carter Notch, 141; from Glen House, 145.
Wildcat Valley (Jackson to Carter Notch), 133-140.
Willard, Mount, 77; ascent of, from Crawford House, 91.
Willey family, burial-place of, 55; destruction of, by a landslip, 77-80.
Willey, Mount, from Carrigain, 65; approach to by the valley, 75; from Mount Willard, 92.
Winnipiseogee, Lake, sail up, from Wolfborough to Centre Harbor, 8-10; Indian occupation and customs, 10; sunset view of, from Red Hill. 16, 17.
Winnipiseogee River (outlet of the lake), Indian remains on, 10; Endicott Rock in, 10, _note_.
Wolfborough ( E. R.R. branch ), Lake Winnipiseogee, 8.
NEW YORK & NEW ENGLAND RAILROAD.
THIS IS THE MOST CONVENIENT LINE BETWEEN
Boston, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Washington,
AS IT IS THE ONLY LINE RUNNING
THROUGH PULLMAN CARS WITHOUT CHANGE.
The train leaving Washington, Baltimore, and Philadelphia in the afternoon, arrives in Boston the following morning in season to connect with trains on the Eastern, Boston & Maine, and Boston & Lowell Railroads, for points in the White Mountains and shore resorts. The morning trains from the White Mountains and shore resorts arrive in Boston in sufficient time to cross the city and take the 7 P.M. train for the South.
Berths in Pullman Sleepers can be secured in advance on application to the Company's Office,
322 Washington St., Boston, and Depot, foot of Summer St.; and at Pennsylvania Railroad Ticket Offices in Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Washington.
==>Ask for Tickets via New England and Str. Maryland Lines.
S. M. FELTON, Jr., General Manager. A. C. KENDALL, General Passenger Agent.
WILLIAM S. BUTLER & CO.
90 & 92 Tremont Street,
(Opposite Tremont House), BOSTON, MASS.
DEALERS IN
Ribbons, Laces, Flowers, Montures, Velvets, Nets,
FEATHERS, SPRAYS, &c.
HATS, for Ladies and Misses; CORSETS--the Best Fitting and Most Sensible: KID GLOVES A SPECIALTY--Latest Styles, Lowest Prices; BUTTONS, TRIMMINGS, &c., in endless variety; HOSIERY and UNDERWEAR, for Ladies and Misses--an admirable assortment at low rates.
FANCY GOODS, PERFUMERY, TOILET ARTICLES, &c.
AND MANY OTHER NOVELTIES.
Ladies visiting Boston, or gentlemen wishing to make purchases for absent wives, sisters, or lady friends, will do well to inspect the admirably selected stock of Gloves, Laces, Velvets, Ribbons, Flowers, Millinery Goods, Hats, Hosiery, Small Wares, and Fancy Goods generally, offered by WILLIAM S. BUTLER & CO., at 90 and 92 Tremont Street (opposite the Tremont House). This firm has won an enviable reputation for the excellence of its goods, its courteous attendance, and the moderation of its prices; while its location renders it most convenient of access by horse cars, either from the hotels or from any of the railroad depots.
==>Orders by mail or express will receive prompt attention.
WILLIAM S. BUTLER & CO.,--90 and 92 Tremont Street, Boston.
SHORE LINE ROUTE.
NEW YORK AND BOSTON.
Trains leave GRAND CENTRAL DEPOT, New York, for Boston, at =8.05 A.M.=, =1= and =10 P.M.=; arriving in Boston at =6= and =8.05 P.M.=, and =6.20 A.M.=
Sundays for Boston at 10 P.M.
WAGNER DRAWING-ROOM CARS
On 1 P.M. trains from Boston and New York.
WAGNER SLEEPING CARS
On night trains from Boston and New York.
Leave BOSTON and PROVIDENCE STATION, Boston, at =8 A.M.=, =1= and =10.30 P.M.=; arriving in the Grand Central Depot, New York, at =4.22= and =7.40 P.M.=, and =6.38 A.M.=
Sundays for New York at 10.30 P.M.
For further information, apply to
J. W. RICHARDSON, Agent, State Street, Corner Washington;
Or at Providence Railroad Station, Columbus Avenue, near Boston Common.
A. A. FOLSOM, Superintendent.
HARPER'S CYCLOPEDIA
OF
BRITISH AND AMERICAN POETRY.
EDITED BY
EPES SARGENT.
Large 8vo, nearly 1000 pages, Illuminated Cloth, with Colored Edges, $4.50; Half Leather, $5.00.
Mr. Sargent was eminently fitted for the preparation of a work of this kind. Few men possessed a wider or more profound knowledge of English literature; and his judgment was clear, acute, and discriminating. * * * The beautiful typography and other exterior charms broadly hint at the rich feast of instruction and enjoyment which the superb volume is eminently fitted to furnish.--_N.Y. Times._
We commend it highly. It contains so many of the notable poems of our language, and so much that is sound poetry, if not notable, that it will make itself a pleasure wherever it is found.--_N.Y. Herald._
The selections are made with a good deal of taste and judgment, and without prejudice against any school or individual. An index of first lines adds to the usefulness of the volume.--_N.Y. Sun._
The collection is remarkably complete. * * * Mr. Sargent's work deserves special commendation for the exquisite justice it does to living writers but little known. It is a volume of rare and precious flowers culled because of their intrinsic value, without regard to the writer's fame. The selections are prefaced by a brief biographical notice of the author, with a critical estimate of the poetry. * * * A valuable acquisition to the literary treasures of American households.--_N.Y. Evening Express._
He seems to have culled the choicest and the best from the broad field. * * * Mr. Sargent had the fine ear to detect the pure, true music of the heart and imagination wherever it was voiced. * * * The elegant volume is a household treasure which will be highly prized.--_Evangelist, N.Y._
PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
==>_Sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of the United States, on receipt of the price._
DRAKE'S NEW ENGLAND COAST.
NOOKS AND CORNERS OF THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. By SAMUEL ADAMS DRAKE. With numerous Illustrations. Square 8vo, Cloth, $3 50; Half Calf, $5 75.
MY DEAR SIR,--I laid out your new and beautiful book to take with me to-day to my summer home, but before I go I wish to thank you for preparing a volume which is every way so delightful. All summer I shall have it at hand, and many a pleasant hour I anticipate in the enjoyment of it. I have _read_ far enough in it already to feel how admirably you have done your part of it, and I have _seen_, in turning over the delectable pages, what a panorama of lovely nooks and rocky coast your artist has prepared for the pleasure of your readers. May they be a good many thousand this year, and continue to increase time onward. If I am not greatly out in my judgment, edition after edition will be called for. Truly yours,
JAMES T. FIELDS.
Thy "Nooks and Corners of the New England Coast" is a delightful book, and one of most frequent reference in my library. Thy friend,
JOHN G. WHITTIER.
I take this opportunity of acknowledging the pleasure I have received from your interesting book on our New England coast. It was my companion last summer on the coast of Maine. Yours truly,
F. PARKMAN.
Mr. Samuel Adams Drake does for the New England coast such service as Mr. Nordhoff has done for the Pacific. His "Nooks and Corners of the New England Coast"--a volume of 459 pages--is an admirable guide both to the lover of the picturesque and the searcher for historic lore, as well as to stay-at-home travellers. The "Preface" tells the story of the book; it is a sketch-map of the coast, with the motto, "On this line, if it takes all summer." "Summer" began with Mr. Drake one Christmas-day at Mount Desert, whence he went South, touching at Castine, Pemaquid, and Monhegan; Wells and "Agamenticus, the ancient city" of York; Kittery Point; "The Shoals;" Newcastle; Salem and Marblehead; Plymouth and Duxbury; Nantucket; Newport; Mount Hope; New London, Norwich, and Saybrook. What nature has to show and history to tell at each of these places, who were the heroes and worthies--all this Mr. Drake gives in pleasant talk--_N.Y Tribune._
MY DEAR MR. DRAKE,--I have given your beautiful book, "Nooks and Corners of the New England Coast," a pretty general perusal. It is one "after my own heart," and I thank you very much for it. Your Preface is an admirable "hit" in more ways than one. Like Grant, whom you have quoted, it took you, I imagine, _all winter_ as well as _all summer_ to accomplish your victory, for you speak of experiences with snow and sleet.
You have gathered into your volume, in the most attractive form, a vast amount of historical and descriptive matter that is exceedingly useful. I hope your pen will not be stayed. Your friend and brother of the pen,
BENSON J. LOSSING.
To-morrow I leave home for a week or two in Maine, and shall take your beautiful volume, "Nooks and Corners of the New England Coast," with me to read and enjoy at leisure. I am sure it cannot fail to be very interesting.
Yours faithfully, HENRY W. LONGFELLOW.
I need not tell you with how much interest both my husband and myself--lovers of the valley--look forward to your work, nor how much pleasure your "Nooks and Corners" has already afforded us.
With most cordial regards, HARRIET P. SPOFFORD.
His style is at once simple and graphic, and his work as conscientious and faithful to fact as if he were the dullest of annalists instead of one of the liveliest of essayists and historians. The legitimate charm of variety--characteristic of a work of this kind--makes the book more entertaining than any volume of similar size devoted exclusively to chronology, biography, essays, or anecdotes.--JOHN G. SAXE, in the _Brooklyn Argus_.
Mr. Drake's "Nooks and Corners of the New England Coast" ought to be in the hands of every one who visits our sea-side resorts. The artistic features serve to embellish a very interesting description of our New England watering-places, enlivened with anecdotes, bits of history connected with the various places, and pleasant gossip about people and things in general.--_Saturday Evening Gazette_, Boston.
PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
==>HARPER & BROTHERS _will send the above work by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of the United States, on receipt of the price_.
GLOWING TRIBUTES TO AMERICAN ART.
WHAT LEADING ENGLISH PAPERS
SAY OF
"PASTORAL DAYS;
OR,
MEMORIES OF A NEW ENGLAND YEAR."
BY W. HAMILTON GIBSON.
4to, Illuminated Cloth, Gilt Edges, $7 50.
FROM "THE TIMES," LONDON.
The title of this very beautifully illustrated book conveys but a very faint idea of its merits, which lie, not in the descriptions of the varied beauties of the fields and fens of New England, but in the admirable wood-engravings, which on every page picture far more than could be given in words. The author has the rare gift of feeling for the exquisitely graceful forms of plant life and the fine touch of an expert draughtsman, which enables him both to select and to draw with a refinement which few artists in this direction have ever shown. Besides these essential qualities in a painter from nature, Mr. Gibson has a fine sense of the poetic and picturesque in landscape, of which there are many charming pieces in this volume, interesting in themselves as pictures, and singularly so in their resemblance to the scenery of Old England. Most of the little vignette-like views might be mistaken for Birket Foster's thoroughly English pictures, and some are like Old Crome's vigorous idyls. One of the most striking--a wild forest scene with a storm passing, called "The Line Storm"--is quite remarkable in the excellent drawing of the trees swept by the gale and in the general composition of the picture, which is full of the true poetic conception of grandeur in landscape beauty. But all Mr. Gibsons's good drawing would have been nothing unless he had been so ably aided by the artist engravers, who have throughout worked with such sympathy with his taste, and so much regard for the native grace of wild flowers, grasses, ferns, insects, and all the infinite beauties of the fields, down to the mysterious spider and his silky net spread over the brambles. These cuts are exceptional examples of beautiful work. Nothing in the whole round of wood-engraving can surpass, if it has even equalled, these in delicacy as well as breadth of effect. Much as our English cutters pride themselves on belonging to the school which Bewick and Jackson founded, they must certainly come to these American artists to learn the something more which is to be found in their works. In point of printing, too, there is much to be learned in the extremely fine ink and paper, which, although subjected to "hot-pressing," are evidently adapted in some special condition for wood-printing. The printing is obviously by hand-press,[46] and in the arrangement of the type with the cuts on each page the greatest ingenuity and invention are displayed. This, too, has been designed with a sort of a Japanesque fancy; here is a tangled mass of grasses and weeds, with a party of ants stealing out of the shade, and there the dragon-flies flit across among the blossoms of the reeds, or the feathery seeds of the dandelion float on the page. Each section of the seasons has its suggestive picture: Springtime, with a flight of birds under a may-flower branch that hangs across the brook: Summer, a host of butterflies sporting round the wild rose: Autumn, with the swallows flying south and falling leaves that strew the page; while for Winter the chrysalis hangs in the leafless bough, and the snow-clad graves in the village church-yard tell the same story of sleep and awakening. As many as thirty different artists, besides the author and designer, have assisted in producing this very tastefully illustrated volume, which commends itself by its genuine artistic merits to all lovers of the picturesque and the natural.
FROM "THE SATURDAY REVIEW," LONDON.
This pleasant American book has brought to our remembrance, though without any sense of imitation, two old-fashioned favorites. In the first place, its descriptions of rural humanity, its rustic sweetness and humor, have a certain analogy with the delicately pencilled studies of life in Miss Mitford's "Our Village;" but the relation it bears to the second book is much closer. It is more than forty years since Mr. P. H. Gosse published the first of those delightful sketches of animal life at home which have led so many of us with a wholesome purpose into the woods and lanes. It was in the _Canadian Naturalist_ that he broke this new ground; and though we do not think this has ever been one of his best-known books, we cannot but believe that there are still many readers who will be reminded of it as they glance down Mr. Gibson's pages.
People must be strangely constituted who do not enjoy such pages as Mr. Gibson has presented to us here. It is not merely that he writes well, but the subject itself is irresistibly fascinating. We plunge with him into the silence of a New England village in a clearing of the woods. The spring is awakening in a flush of tender green, in a fever of warm days and shivering nights, and we hasten with our companion through all the bustle and stir of the few busy hours of light so swiftly that the darkness is on us before we are aware. Then falls on the ear a pathetic, an intolerable silence; a deep mist covers the ground, a few lights twinkle in scattered farms and cottages, and all seems brooding, melting, in the deep and throbbing hush of the darkness. * * * The wailing of the great owl upon the maple-tree takes our author back in memory to the scenes of his youth, where the owl was looked upon as a creature of most sinister omen, and his own partiality to it, as a proof that there was something uncanny or even "fey" about him. All this is described with great sympathy and delicacy; but perhaps Mr. Gibson is most felicitous in his little touches of floral painting. He has a few words about the earthy, spicy fragrance of the arbutus that might have been said in verse by the late Mr. Bryant; his description of the effect of biting the bulbs of the Indian turnip, or "Jack-in-the-pulpit," is inimitable in its quiet way; while the phrase about the fading dandelions--"the golden stars upon the lawn are nearly all burned out; we see their downy ashes in the grass"--is perhaps the best thing ever said about a humble flower, whose vulgarity, in the literal sense, blinds us to the beauty of its evolution and decay.
In his studies of life and country manners Mr. Gibson is a very agreeable and amusing, if not quite so novel, a companion. Not seldom he reminds us not merely of Miss Mitford, but sometimes of Thoreau and of Hawthorne. The story of Aunt Huldy, the village crone who sustained herself upon simples to the age of a hundred and three, is one of those little vignettes, half humorous, half pathetic, and altogether picturesque, in which the Americans excel. Aunt Huldy was an old witch in a scarlet hood, whose long white hair flowing behind her was wont to frighten the village children who came upon her in the woods; but she was absolutely harmless, a crazy old valetudinarian, who was always searching for the elixir of life in strange herbs and decoctions. At last she thought she had found it in sweet-fern, and she spent her last years in grubbing up every specimen she could find, smoking it, chewing it, drinking it, and sleeping with a little bag of it tied round her neck.
But although Mr. Gibson writes so well, he modestly disclaims all pretension as a writer, and lets us know that he is an artist by profession. His book is illustrated by more than seventy designs from his pencil, engraved in that beautiful American manner to which we have often called attention. The scenes designed are closely analogous to those described in the text. We have an apple-orchard in full blossom, with a group of idlers lounging underneath the boughs; scenes in the fields so full of mystery and stillness that we are reminded of Millet, or of our own Mason; clusters of flowers drawn with all the knowledge of a botanist and the sympathy of a poet. It is hard to define the peculiar pleasure that such illustrations give to the eye. It is something that includes and yet transcends the mere enjoyment of whatever artistic excellence the designs may possess. We are directly reminded by them of such similar scenes as have been either the rule or the still more fascinating exception of every childish life, and at their suggestion the past comes back; in the familiar Wordsworthian phrase, "a river flows on through the vale of Cheapside."
We know so little over here of the best American art that it may chance that Mr. Gibson is very well known in New York. We confess, however, that we never heard of him before; but his drawings are so full of delicate fancy and feeling, and his writing so skilful and graceful, that, in calling attention to his book, we cannot but express the hope that we soon may hear of him again, in either function, or in both.
"PASTORAL DAYS" is published by HARPER & BROTHERS, New York, who will send the work, postage prepaid, to any part of the United States, on receipt of $7 50.
HARPER'S GUIDE TO EUROPE.
HARPER'S HAND-BOOK FOR TRAVELLERS IN EUROPE AND THE EAST: being a Guide through Great Britain and Ireland, France, Belgium, Holland, Germany, Italy, Egypt, Syria, Turkey, Greece, Switzerland, Tyrol, Spain, Russia, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, United States, and Canada. By W. Pembroke Fetridge. With Maps and Plans of Cities. In Three Volumes. 12mo, Leather, Pocket-Book Form, $3 00 per vol. _The volumes sold separately_.
VOL. I. GREAT BRITAIN, IRELAND, FRANCE, BELGIUM, HOLLAND.
VOL. II. GERMANY, AUSTRIA, ITALY, SICILY AND MALTA, EGYPT, THE DESERT, SYRIA AND PALESTINE, TURKEY, GREECE.
VOL. III. SWITZERLAND, TYROL, DENMARK, NORWAY, SWEDEN, RUSSIA, SPAIN, UNITED STATES AND CANADA.
It has stood the test of trying experience, and has proved the traveller's friend in all emergencies. Each year has added to its attractions and value, until it is about as near perfect as it is possible to make it.--_Boston Post_.
Personal use of this Guide during several visits to various portions of Europe enables us to attest its merits. No American is fully equipped for travel in Europe without this Hand-Book.--_Philadelphia North American_.
Take "Harper's Hand-Book," and read it carefully through; then return to the parts relating to the places you have resolved to visit; follow the route on the maps, and particularly study the plans of cities. So you will start with sound pre-knowledge, which will smoothen the entire course of travel.--_Philadelphia Press_.
The book is not only unrivalled as a guide-book, for which it is primarily intended, but it is a complete cyclopædia of all that relates to the countries, towns, and cities which are described in it--their curiosities, most notable scenes, their most celebrated historical, commercial, literary, and artistic centres. Besides general descriptions of great value, there are minute and detailed accounts of everything that is worth seeing or knowing relative to the countries of the Old World. The great value of the book consists in the fact that it covers all the ground that any traveller may pass through--being exhaustive not only of one country or two, but comprising in its ample pages exact and full information respecting every country in Europe and the East.--_Christian Intelligencer_, N. Y.
It is a marvellous compendium of information, and the author has labored hard to make his book keep pace with the progress of events. * * * It forms a really valuable work of reference on all the topics which it treats, and in that way is as useful to the reader who stays at home as to the traveller who carries it with him abroad.--_N. Y. Times_.
I have received and examined with lively interest the new and extended edition of your extremely valuable "Hand-Book for Travellers in Europe and the East." You have evidently spared no time or pains in consolidating the results of your wide travel, your great experience. You succeed in presenting to the traveller the most valuable guide and friend with which I have the good fortune to be acquainted. With the warmest thanks, I beg you to receive the most cordial congratulations of yours, very faithfully, JOHN MEREDITH READ. Jr., _United States Minister of Greece._
From having travelled somewhat extensively in former years in Europe and the East. I can say with entire truth that you have succeeded in combining more that is instructive and valuable for the traveller than is contained in any one or series of hand-books that I have ever met with.--T. BIGELOW LAWRENCE.
To make a tour abroad without a guide-book is impossible. The object should be to secure that which is most complete and comprehensive in the least compass. The scope, plan, and execution of Harper's makes it, on the whole, the most satisfactory that can be found.--_Albany Journal_.
PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
HARPER & BROTHERS _will send the above work by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of the United States, on receipt of the price._
ENGLISH MEN OF LETTERS.
EDITED BY JOHN MORLEY.
The following volumes are now ready:
JOHNSON, LESLIE STEPHEN.
GIBBON, J. C. MORISON.
SCOTT, R. H. HUTTON.
SHELLEY, J. A. SYMONDS.
HUME, Professor HUXLEY.
GOLDSMITH, WILLIAM BLACK.
DEFOE, WILLIAM MINTO.
BURNS, Principal SHAIRP.
SPENSER, The DEAN OF ST. PAUL'S.
THACKERAY, ANTHONY TROLLOPE.
BURKE, JOHN MORLEY.
MILTON, MARK PATTISON.
SOUTHEY, Professor DOWDEN.
CHAUCER, Professor A. W. WARD.
BUNYAN, J. A. FROUDE.
COWPER, GOLDWIN SMITH.
POPE, LESLIE STEPHEN.
BYRON, JOHN NICHOL.
LOCKE, THOMAS FOWLER.
WORDSWORTH, F. W. H. MYERS.
DRYDEN, G. SAINTSBURY.
LANDOR, Professor SIDNEY COLVIN.
DE QUINCEY, Professor D. MASSON.
LAMB, The Rev. ALFRED AINGER.
BENTLEY, Professor JEBB.
12mo, Cloth, 75 cents per volume.
HAWTHORNE. By HENRY JAMES, JR.............12mo, Cloth, $1 00.
VOLUMES IN PREPARATION:
SWIFT, JOHN MORLEY.
GRAY, E. W. GOSSE.
ADAM SMITH, LEONARD H. COURTNEY.
DICKENS, Professor A. W. WARD.
_Others will be announced._
Published by HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
==>HARPER & BROTHERS _will send any of the above works by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of the United States, on receipt of the price_. */
ENGLISH CLASSICS.
EDITED, WITH NOTES,
BY WM. J. ROLFE, A.M.
SHAKESPEARE'S PLAYS.
The Merchant of Venice. The Tempest. Julius Cæsar. Hamlet. As You Like It. Henry the Fifth. Macbeth. Henry the Eighth. Midsummer-Night's Dream. Richard III. Richard the Second. Much Ado About Nothing. Antony and Cleopatra. Romeo and Juliet. Othello. Twelfth Night. The Winter's Tale. King John. Henry IV. Part I. Henry IV. Part II. King Lear. Taming of the Shrew. All's Well that Ends Well. Coriolanus. Comedy of Errors. Cymbeline. Merry Wives of Windsor. Measure for Measure. Two Gentlemen of Verona. Love's Labour's Lost. Timon of Athens.
SELECT POEMS OF OLIVER GOLDSMITH.
SELECT POEMS OF THOMAS GRAY.
_ILLUSTRATED._
16MO, CLOTH, 50 CENTS PER VOLUME; PAPER, 40 CENTS PER VOLUME.
In the preparation of this edition of the English Classics it has been the aim to adapt them for school and home reading, in essentially the same way as Greek and Latin Classics are edited for educational purposes. The chief requisites are a pure text (expurgated, if necessary), and the notes needed for its thorough explanation and illustration.
Each of Shakespeare's plays is complete in one volume, and is preceded by an introduction containing the "History of the Play," the "Sources of the Plot," and "Critical Comments on the Play."
PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.
HARPER & BROTHERS _will send any of the above work by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of the United States, on receipt of the price_.
[Illustration: Map of White Mountains, New Hampshire]
[Illustration: Map of Vermont and New Hampshire]
* * * * *
Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:
griping his arm=> gripping his arm {pg 103}
more and more drouth=> more and more drought {pg 173}
turned to looked back=> turned to look back {pg 243}
Moosilauk 4881=> Moosilauke 4881 {pg 330}
FOOTNOTES:
[1] So called from the fishing-weirs of the Indians. The Indian name was Aquedahtan. Here is the Endicott Rock, with an inscription made by Massachusetts surveyors in 1652.
[2] No tradition attaches to the last three peaks. Passaconnaway was a great chieftain and conjurer of the Pennacooks. It is of him the poet Whittier writes:
Burned for him the drifted snow, Bade through ice fresh lilies blow, And the leaves of summer glow Over winter's wood.
This noted patriarch and necromancer, in whose arts not only the Indians but the English seemed to have put entire faith, after living to a great age, was, according to the tradition, translated to heaven from the summit of Mount Washington, after the manner of Elias, in a chariot of fire, surrounded by a tempest of flame. Wonnalancet was the son and successor of Passaconnaway. Paugus, an under chief of the Pigwackets, or Sokokis, killed in the battle with Lovewell, related in the next chapter.
[3] Something has since been done by the Appalachian Club to render this part of the ascent less hazardous than it formerly was.
[4] The Saco has since been bridged, and is traversed with all ease.
[5] The sequel to this strange but true story is in keeping with the rest of its horrible details. Perpetually haunted by the ghost of his victim, the murderer became a prey to remorse. Life became insupportable. He felt that he was both shunned and abhorred. Gradually he fell into a decline, and within a few years from the time the deed was committed he died.
[6] Dr. Jeremy Belknap relates that, on his journey through this region in 1784, he was besought by the superstitious villagers to lay the spirits which were still believed to haunt the fastnesses of the mountains.
[7] This house stood just within the entrance to the Notch, from the north, or Fabyan side. It was for some time kept by Thomas J., one of the famous Crawfords. Travellers who are a good deal puzzled by the frequent recurrence of the name "Crawford's" will recollect that the present hotel is now the only one in this valley bearing the name.
[8] A portion of the slide touching the house, even moved it a little from its foundations before being stopped by the resistance it opposed to the progress of the débris.
[9] I have since passed over the same route without finding those sensations to which our inexperience, and the tempest which surrounded us, rendered us peculiarly liable. In reality, the ridge connecting Mount Pleasant with Mount Franklin is passed without hesitation, in good weather, by the most timid; but when a rod of the way cannot be seen the case is different, and caution necessary. The view of this natural bridge from the summit of Mount Franklin is one of the imposing sights of the day's march.
[10] The remains of this ill-fated climber have since been found at the foot of the pinnacle. See chapter on Mount Washington.
[11] This analogy of belief may be carried farther still, to the populations of Asia, which surround the great "Abode of Snow"--the Himalayas. It would be interesting to see in this similarity of religious worship a link between the Asiatic, the primitive man, and the American--the most recent, and the most unfortunate. Our province is simply to recount a fact to which the brothers Schlaginweit ("Exploration de la Haute Asie") bear witness:
"It is in spite of himself, under the enticement of a great reward, that the superstitious Hindoo decides to accompany the traveller into the mountains, which he dreads less for the unknown dangers of the ascent than for the sacrilege he believes he is committing in approaching the holy asylum, the inviolable sanctuary of the gods he reveres; his trouble becomes extreme when he sees in the peak to be climbed not the mountain, but the god whose name it bears. Henceforth it is by sacrifice and prayer alone that he may appease the profoundly offended deity."
[12] Sullivan: "History of Maine."
[13] Field's second ascension (July, 1642) was followed in the same year by that of Vines and Gorges, two magistrates of Sir F. Gorges's province of Maine, within which the mountains were believed to lie. Their visit contributed little to the knowledge of the region, as they erroneously reported the high plateau of the great chain to be the source of the Kennebec, as well as of the Androscoggin and Connecticut rivers.
[14] It also occurs, reduced to Agiochook, in the ballad, of unknown origin, on the death of Captain Lovewell. One of these was, doubtless, the authority of Belknap. Touching the signification of Agiochook, it is the opinion of Dr. J. Hammond Trumbull that the word which Captain Gyles imperfectly translated from sound into English syllables is Algonquin for "at the mountains on that side," or "over yonder." "As to the generally received interpretations of Agiockochook, such as 'the abode of the Great Spirit,' 'the place of the Spirit of the Great Forest,' or, as one writer prefers, 'the place of the Storm Spirit,'" says Dr. Trumbull, "it is enough to say that no element of any Algonkin word meaning 'great,' 'spirit,' 'forest,' 'storm,' or 'abode,' or combining the meaning of any two of these words, occurs in 'Agiockochook.' The only Indian name for the White Hills that bears internal evidence of genuineness is one given on the authority of President Alden, as used 'by one of the eastern tribes,' that is, Waumbekketmethna, which easily resolves itself into the Kennebec-Abnaki waubeghiket-amadinar, 'white greatest mountain.' It is very probable, however, that this synthesis is a mere translation, by an Indian, of the English 'White Mountains.' I have never, myself, succeeded in obtaining this name from the modern Abnakis."
[15] Here is what Douglass says in his "Summary" (1748-'53): "The White Hills, or rather mountains, inland about seventy miles north from the mouth of Piscataqua Harbor, about seven miles west by north from the head of the Pigwoket branch of Saco River; they are called white not from their being continually covered with snow, but because they are bald atop, producing no trees or brush, and covered with a whitish stone or shingle: these hills may be observed at a great distance, and are a considerable guide or direction to the Indians in travelling that country."
And Robert Rogers ("Account of America," London, 1765) remarks that the White Mountains were "so called from that appearance which is like snow, consisting, as is generally supposed, of a white flint, from which the reflection is very brilliant and dazzling."
[16] Captivity of Elizabeth Hanson, taken at Dover, New Hampshire, 1724.
[17] No Yankee girl need be told for what purpose spruce gum is procured; but it will doubtless be news to many that the best quality is worth a dollar the pound. Davis told me he had gathered enough in a single season to fetch ninety dollars.
[18] I use the name, as usually applied, to the whole mountain. In point of fact, the Dome is not visible from the Notch.
[19] The guide knew no other name for the larger bird than meat-hawk; but its size, plumage, and utter fearlessness are characteristic of the Canada jay, occasionally encountered in these high latitudes. I cannot refrain from reminding the reader that the cross-bill is the subject of a beautiful German legend, translated by Longfellow. The dying and forsaken Saviour sees a little bird striving to draw the nail from his bleeding palm with his beak:
"And the Saviour spoke in mildness: 'Blest be thou of all the good! Bear, as token of this moment, Marks of blood and holy rood!"
"And the bird is called the cross-bill; Covered all with blood so clear. In the groves of pine it singeth Songs like legends, strange to hear."
[20] Peabody River is said to have originated in the same manner, and in a single night. It is probable, however, that as long as there has been a valley there has also been a stream.
[21] Since the above was written, a deplorable accident has given melancholy emphasis to these words of warning. I leave them as they are, because they were employed by the very person to whom the disaster was due: "The first accident by which any passengers were ever injured on the carriage-road, from the Glen House to the summit of Mount Washington, occurred July 3d, 1880, about a mile below the Half-Way House. One of the six-horse mountain wagons, containing a party of nine persons--the last load of the excursionists from Michigan to make the descent of the mountain--was tipped over, and one lady was killed and five others injured. Soon after starting from the summit the passengers discovered that the driver had been drinking while waiting for the party to descend. They left this wagon a short distance from the summit and walked to the Half-Way House, four miles below, where one of the employés of the Carriage-road Company assured them that there was no bad place below that, and that he thought it would be safe for them to resume their seats with the driver, who was with them. Soon after passing the Half-Way House, in driving around a curve too rapidly, the carriage was overset, throwing the occupants into the woods and on the rocks. Mrs. Ira Chichester, of Allegan, Michigan, was instantly killed, her husband, who was sitting at her side, being only slightly bruised. Of the other occupants, several were more or less injured. The injured were brought at once to the Glen House, and received every possible care and attention. Lindsey, the driver, was taken up insensible. He had been on the road ten years, and was considered one of the safest and most reliable drivers in the mountains."
[22] A stone bench, known as Willis's Seat, has been fixed in the parapet wall at the extreme southern angle of the road, between the sixth and seventh miles. It is a fine lookout, but will need to be carefully searched for.
[23] Benjamin Chandler, of Delaware, in August, 1856.
[24] Dr. B. L. Ball's "Three Days on the White Mountains," in October, 1855.
[25] Considering the pinnacle of Mount Washington as the centre of a circle of vision, the greatest distance I have been able to see with the naked eye, in nine ascensions, did not probably much exceed one hundred miles. This being half the diameter, the circumference would surpass six hundred miles. It is now considered settled that Katahdin, one hundred and sixty miles distant, is not visible from Mount Washington.
[26] The highest point, formerly indicated by a cairn and a beacon, is now occupied by an observatory, built of planks, and, of course, commanding the whole horizon. It is desirable to examine this vast landscape in detail, or so much of it as the eye embraces at once, and no more.
[27] One poor fellow (Private Stevens) did die here in 1872. His comrade remained one day and two nights alone with the dead body before help could be summoned from below.
[28] It was for a long time believed that the summit of Mount Washington bore no marks of the great Glacial Period, which the lamented Agassiz was the first to present in his great work on the glaciers of the Alps. Such was the opinion of Dr. C. T. Jackson, State Geologist of New Hampshire. It is now announced that Professor C. H. Hitchcock has detected the presence of transported bowlders not identical with the rocks in place.
[29] In going to and returning from the ravine, I must have walked over the very spot which has since derived a tragical interest from the discovery, in July, 1880, of a human skeleton among the rocks. Three students, who had climbed up through the ravine on the way to the summit, stumbled upon the remains. Some fragments of clothing remained, and in a pocket were articles identifying the lost man as Harry W. Hunter, of Pittsburg, Pennsylvania. This was the same person whom I had seen placarded as missing, in 1875, and who is referred to in the chapter on the ascent from Crawford's. A cairn and tablet, similar to those erected on the spot where Miss Bourne perished, had already been placed here when I last visited the locality, where the remains had so long lain undiscovered in their solitary tomb. An inscription upon the tablet gives the following details: "Henry W. Hunter, aged twenty-two years, perished in a storm, September 3d, 1874, while walking from the Willey House to the summit. Remains found July 14th, 1880, by a party of Amherst students." The place is conspicuous from the plain, and is between the Crawford Path and Tuckerman's. By going a few rods to the left, the Summit House, one mile distant, is in full view. This makes the third person known to have perished on or near the summit of Mount Washington. Young Hunter died without a witness to the agony of his last moments. No search was made until nearly a year had elapsed. It proved ineffectual, and was abandoned. Thus, strangely and by chance, was brought to light the fact that he sunk exhausted and lifeless at the foot of the cone itself. I can fully appreciate the nature of the situation in which this too adventurous but truly unfortunate climber was placed.
[30] A log-hut has been built near the summit of Mount Clinton since this was written. It is a good deed. But the long miles over the summits remain as yet neglected. Had one existed at the base of Monroe, it is probable that one life, at least, might have been saved. It is on the plain that danger and difficulties thicken.
[31] Kancamagus, the Pennacook sachem, led the Indian assault on Dover, in 1689.
[32] This name was given to his picture of the great range, in possession of the Prince of Wales, by Mr. George L. Brown, the eminent landscape-painter. The canvas represents the summits in the sumptuous garb of autumn.
[33] The true source of the Connecticut remained so long in doubt that it passed into a by-word. Cotton Mather, speaking of an ecclesiastical quarrel in Hartford, says that it was almost as obscure as the rise of the Connecticut River.
[34] This orthography is of recent adoption. By recent I mean within thirty years. Before that time it was always Moosehillock. Nothing is easier than to unsettle a name. So far as known, I believe there is not a single summit of the White Mountain group having a name given to it by the Indians. On the contrary, the Indian names have all come from the white people. That these are sometimes far-fetched is seen in Osceola and Tecumseh; that they are often puerile, it is needless to point out. Moosehillock is probably no exception. It is not unlikely to be an English nickname. The result of these changes is that the people inhabiting the region contiguous to the mountain do not know how to spell the name on their guide-boards.
[35] Speaking of legends, that of Rubenzal, of the Silesian mountains, is not unlike Irving's legend of Rip Van Winkle and the Catskills. Both were Dutch legends. The Indian legends of Moosehillock are very like to those of high mountains, everywhere.
[36] In the valley of the Aar, at the head of the Aar glacier, in Switzerland, is a peak named for Agassiz, who thus has two enduring monuments, one in his native, the other in his adopted land. The eminent Swiss scientist spent much time among the White Mountains.
[37] Such, for example, as the Hon. J. G. Sinclair, Isaac Cruft, Esq., and ex-Governor Howard of Rhode Island.
[38] The twin Percy Peaks, which we saw in the north, rise in the south-east corner of Stratford. Their name was probably derived from the township now called Stark, and formerly Percy. The township was named by Governor Wentworth in honor of Hugh, Earl of Northumberland, who figured in the early days of the American Revolution. The adjoining township of Northumberland is also commemorative of the same princely house.
[39] The greater part of the ascent so nearly coincides, in its main features, with that into Tuckerman's, that a description would be, in effect, a repetition. To my mind Tuckerman's is the grander of the two; it is only when the upper section of King's is reached that it begins to be either grand or interesting by comparison.
[40] The road up the Rigi, in Switzerland, was modelled upon the plans of Mr. Marsh.
[41] Dr. Timothy Dwight.
[42] Rev. Benjamin G. Willey.
[43] The greatest angle of inclination is twelve feet in one hundred.
[44] Samuel Adams at the feet of John Adams is not the exact order that we have been accustomed to seeing these men. Better leave Samuel Adams where he stands in history--alone.
[45] It is only forty years since Agassiz advanced his now generally adopted theory of the Glacial Period. The Indians believed that the world was originally covered with water, and that their god created the dry land from a grain of sand.
[46] The English reviewer is in error here. The letterpress and illustrations were printed together on an Adams press.