CHAPTER II

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THE WAVES OF THE OCEAN.

Waves and the Mode of their Formation.--Height and Velocity of Storm-Waves, on the High Seas, according to the Calculations of Scoresby, Arago, Sir James Ross, and Wilkes.--Their Height and Power on Coasts.--Their Destructive Effects along the British Shore.-- Dunwich.--Reculver.--Shakspeare's Cliff. 24

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