Part 16
Anno 1329. King Edward the Third, Plantagenet, by whom, in the first of his reign, this worthy Society of Skinners was incorporate, he their first royal founder and brother: queen Philip his wife, younger daughter of William Earl of Henault, the first royal sister; so gloriously virtuous that she is a rich ornament to memory; she both founded and endowed Queen’s College in Oxford, to the continuing estate of which I myself wish all happiness; this queen at her death desired three courtesies, some of which are rare in these days; first, that her debts might be paid to the merchants; secondly, that her gifts to the church might be performed; thirdly, that the king, when he died, would at Westminster be interred with her.
Anno 1357. Edward Plantagenet, surnamed the Black Prince, son to Edward the Third, Prince of Wales, Duke of Guienne, Aquitaine, and Cornwall, Earl Palatine of Chester. In the battle of Poictiers in France, he, with 8000 English against 60,000 French, got the victory; took the king, Philip his son, seventeen earls, with divers other noble personages, prisoners.
King Richard the Second, Plantagenet. This king being the third royal brother of this honourable Company, and at that time the Society consisting of two brotherhoods of Corpus Christi, the one at St. Mary Spittle, the other at St. Mary Bethlem without Bishopsgate, in the eighteenth of his reign granted them to make their two brotherhoods one, by the name of the Fraternity of Corpus Christi of Skinners, which worthy title shines at this day gloriously amongst ’em; and toward the end of this king’s reign, 1396, a great feast was celebrated in Westminster Hall, where the lord mayor of this city sate as guest.
Anno 1381. Queen Anne, his wife, daughter to the Emperor Charles the Fourth, and sister to [the] Emperor Wenceslaus, whose modesty then may make this age blush now, she being the first that taught women to ride sideling on horseback; but who it was that taught ’em to ride straddling, there is no records so immodest that can shew me, only the impudent time and the open profession. This fair precedent of womanhood died at Sheen, now Richmond; for grief whereof King Richard her lord abandoned and defaced that goodly house.
Anno 1399. King Henry the Fourth, Plantagenet, surnamed Bolingbroke, a fourth royal brother. In his time the famous Guildhall in London was erected, where the honourable courts of the city are kept, and this bounteous feast yearly celebrated. In the twelfth year of his reign the river of Thames flowed thrice in one day.
Queen Joan, or Jane, Duchess of Bretagne, late wife to John Duke of Bretagne, and daughter to the King of Navarre, another princely sister.
Anno 1412. King Henry the Fifth, Plantagenet, Prince of Wales, proclaimed Mayor and Regent of France: he won that famous victory on the French at the battle of Agincourt.
Queen Catherine, his wife, daughter to Charles the Sixth, King of France.
King Henry the Sixth, Plantagenet, of the house of Lancaster.
King Edward the Fourth, Plantagenet, of the house of York. This king feasted the lord mayor, Richard Chawry, and the aldermen his brethren, with certain commoners, in Waltham Forest: after dinner rode a-hunting with the king, who gave him plenty of venison, and sent to the lady mayoress and her sisters the aldermen’s wives, two harts, six bucks, and a tun of wine, to make merry; and this noble feast was kept at Drapers’ Hall.
Anno 1463. Queen Elizabeth Grey, his wife, daughter to Richard Woodville, Earl Rivers, and to the Duchess of Bedford; she was mother to the Lord Grey of Ruthin, that in his time was Marquis Dorset.
King Richard the Third, brother to Edward the Fourth, Duke of Gloucester, and of the house of York.
Lionel Plantagenet, third son to the third Edward, Duke of Clarence and Earl of Ulster: Philip his daughter and heir married Edward Mortimer, Earl of March, from whom the house of York descends.
Henry Plantagenet, grandchild to Edmond Crouchback, second son to Henry the Third.
Richard Plantagenet, father of Edward the Fourth, Duke of York and Albemarle, Earl of Cambridge, Rutland, March, Clare, and Ulster.
Thomas Plantagenet, second son of Henry the Fourth.
John Plantagenet, third son of Henry the Fourth; so noble a soldier, and so great a terror to the French, that when Charles the Eighth was moved to deface his monument—being buried in Rouen—the king thus answered,— “Pray, let him rest in peace being dead, of whom we were all afraid when he lived.”
Humfrey Plantagenet, fourth son of Henry the Fourth.
John Holland, Duke of Exeter.
George Plantagenet, brother to Edward the Fourth.
Edmond Plantagenet, brother to Edward the Fourth.
Richard Neville, Earl of Salisbury and Warwick, called the Great Earl of Warwick.
John Cornwall Knight, Baron Fanhope.
_The royal sum._
Seven kings, five queens, one prince, seven dukes, one earl; twenty-one Plantagenets.
Seven kings, five queens, one prince, eight dukes, two earls, one lord; twenty-four Skinners.
The feast ended at Guildhall, his lordship, as yearly custom invites it, goes, accompanied with the Triumph before him, towards St. Paul’s, to perform the noble and reverend ceremonies which divine antiquity religiously ordained, and are[338] no less than faithfully observed. Holy service and ceremonies accomplished, his lordship returns by torchlight to his own house, the whole Triumph placed in comely and decent order before him; the Wilderness; the Sanctuary of Fame, adorned with lights; the Parliament of Honour; and the Triumphant Chariot of Love, with his graceful concomitants, the chariot drawn with two luzerns.[339] Near to the entrance of his lordship’s gate, Love, prepared with his welcome, thus salutes him:
LOVE.
I was the first, grave lord, that welcom’d thee To this day’s honour, and I spake it free, Just as in every heart I found it plac’d, And ’tis my turn again now to speak last; For love is circular, like the bright sun, And takes delight to end where it begun, Though indeed never ending in true will, But rather may be said beginning still, As all great works are of celestial birth, Of which love is the chief in heaven and earth. To what blest state then are thy fortunes come, Since that both brought thee forth and brings thee home? Now, as in common course, which clears things best, There’s no free gift but looks for thanks at least; A love so bountiful, so free, so good, From the whole city, from thy brotherhood— That name I ought a while to dwell upon— Expect some fair requital from the man They’ve all so largely honour’d: what’s desir’d? That which in conscience ought to be requir’d; O, thank ’em in thy justice, in thy care, Zeal to right wrongs, works that are clear and fair, And will become thy soul, whence virtue springs, As those rich ornaments thy brother-kings. And since we cannot separate love and care— For where care is, a love must needs be there, And care where love is, ’tis the man and wife, Through every estate that’s fix’d in life— You are by this the city’s bridegroom prov’d, And she stands wedded to her best belov’d: Then be, according to your morning vows, A careful husband to a loving spouse; And heaven give you great joy,—both it and thee, And to all those that shall match after ye!
_The names of those beasts bearing fur, and now in use with the bountiful Society of Skinners, the most of which presented in the Wilderness, where_ ORPHEUS _predominates_.
Ermine, foine, sables, martin, badger, bear, Luzern, budge, otter, hipponesse, and hare, Lamb, wolf, fox, leopard, minx, stot, miniver, Racoon, moashy, wolverin, caliber, Squirrel, mole, cat, musk, civet, wild and tame, Cony, white, yellow, black, must have a name, The ounce, rowsgray, ginnet, pampilion; Of birds the vulture, bitter, estridge,[340] swan: Some worn for ornament, and some for health, All to the Skinners’ art bring fame and wealth.
The service being thus faithfully performed, both to his lordship’s honour and to the credit and content of his most generously bountiful Society, the season commends all to silence; yet not without a little leave taken to reward art with the comely dues that belong unto it, which hath been so richly expressed in the body of the Triumph with all the proper beauties of workmanship, that the city may, without injury to judgment, call it the masterpiece of her triumphs; the credit of which workmanship I must justly lay upon the deserts of master Garret Crismas[341] and master Robert Norman, joined-partners in the performance.
THE SUN IN ARIES.
_The Sunne in Aries. A Noble Solemnity Performed through the Citie, at the sole cost and charges of the Honourable and ancient Fraternity of Drapers, At the confirmation and establishment of their most Worthy Brother the Right Honourable, Edward Barkham, in the high Office of his Maiesties Lieutenant, the lord Maior of the famous Citie of London. Taking beginning at his Lordships going, and perfecting it selfe after his returne from receiuing the Oath of Maioralty at Westminster, on the morrow after Simon [and] Jvdes day, being the 29. of October. 1621. By Tho. Middleton, Gent. At London: Printed by Ed. All-de, for H. G. 1621._ 4to.
Reprinted in Nichols’s _Progresses of King James_, vol. iv. p. 724.
_To the honour of him to whom the noble Fraternity of Drapers, his worthy brothers, have dedicated their loves in costly Triumphs, the Right Honourable_ EDWARD BARKHAM, _Lord Mayor of this renowned City_.
Your Honour being the centre where the lines Of this day’s glorious circle meets and joins, Love, joy, cost, triumph, all by you made blest, There does my service too desire to rest,
At your Lordship’s command,
THO. MIDDLETON.
THE SUN IN ARIES.
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Pisces being the last of the signs and the wane of the Sun’s glory, how fitly and desiredly now the Sun enters into Aries, for the comfort and refreshing of the creatures, and may be properly called the spring-time of right and justice, observed by the shepherd’s calendar in the mountain, to prove a happy year for poor men’s causes, widows’ and orphans’ comforts; so much to make good the Sun’s entrance into that noble sign; I doubt not but the beams of his justice will make good themselves.
And first to begin with the worthy love of his honourable Society to his lordship, after his honour’s return from Westminster, having received some service upon the water. The first Triumph by land attends his lordship’s most wished arrival in Paul’s-Churchyard, which is a chariot most artfully framed and adorned, bearing the title of the Chariot of Honour; in which chariot many worthies are placed that have got trophies of honour by their labours and deserts; such as Jason, whose illustration of honour is the golden fleece; Hercules with his _ne plus ultra_ upon pilasters of silver; a fair globe for conquering Alexander; a gilt laurel for triumphant Cæsar, &c. Jason, at the approach of his lordship, being the personage most proper, by his manifestation, for the Society’s honour, lends a voice to these following words:
_The speech presented by_ JASON.
Be favourable, Fates, and a fair sky Smile on this expedition! Phœbus’ eye, Look cheerfully! the bark is under sail For a year’s voyage, and a blessèd gale Be ever with it! ’tis for justice bound, A coast that’s not by every compass found, And goes for honour, life’s most precious trading; May it return with most illustrious lading! A thing both wish’d and hop’d for. I am he, To all adventurous voyages a free And bountiful well-wisher, by my name Hight[342] Jason, first adventurer for fame, Which now rewards my danger, and o’ertops The memory of all peril or her stops; Assisted by the noble hopes of Greece, ’Twas I from Colchis fetch’d the golden fleece; And one of the first brothers on record Of honour got by danger. So, great lord, There is no voyage set forth to renown, That does not sometimes meet with skies that frown, With gusts of envy, billows of despite, Which makes the purchase, once achiev’d, more bright. State is a sea; he must be wise indeed That sounds its depth, or can the quicksands heed; And honour is so nice and rare a prize, ’Tis watch’d by dragons, venomous enemies; Then no small care belongs to’t: but as I, With my assisting Argonauts, did try The utmost of adventure, and with bold And constant courage brought the fleece of gold, Whose illustration decks my memory Through all posterities, naming but me,— So, man of merit, never faint or fear; Thou hast th’ assistance of grave senators here, Thy worthy brethren, some of which have past All dangerous gulfs, and in their bright fames plac’d, They can instruct and guide thee, and each one That must adventure, and are coming on To this great expedition; they will be Cheerful and forward to encourage thee; And blessings fall in a most infinite sum Both on those past, thyself, and those to come!
Passing from this, and more to encourage the labour of the magistrate, he is now conducted to the master Triumph, called the Tower of Virtue, which for the strength, safety, and perpetuity, bears the name of the Brazen Tower; of which Integrity keeps the keys, virtue being indeed as a brazen wall to a city or commonwealth; and to illustrate the prosperity it brings to a kingdom, the top turrets or pinnacles of this Brazen Tower shine bright like gold; and upon the gilded battlements thereof stand six knights, three in silvered and three in gilt armour, as Virtue’s standard-bearers or champions, holding six little streamers or silver bannerets, in each of which are displayed the arms of a noble brother and benefactor, Fame sounding forth their praises to the world, for the encouragement of after-ages, and Antiquity, the register of Fame, containing in her golden legend their names and titles; as that of Sir Henry Fitz-Alwin, draper, lord mayor four-and-twenty years together; Sir John Norman, the first that was rowed in barge to Westminster with silver oars, at his own cost and charges; Sir Francis Drake, the son of Fame, who in two years and ten months did cast a girdle about the world; the unparalleled Sir Simon Eyre, who built Leadenhall at his own cost, a store-house for the poor, both in the upper lofts and lower; the generous and memorable Sir Richard Champion and Sir John Milborne, two bountiful benefactors; Sir Richard Hardell, in the seat of magistracy six years together; Sir John Poultney, four years, which Sir John founded a college in the parish of St. Lawrence Poultney, by Candlewick Street; John Hinde, a re-edifier of the parish church of St. Swithin by London Stone; Sir Richard Pipe, who being free of the Leather-sellers, was also from them translated to the ancient and honourable Society of Drapers; and many whose names, for brevity’s cause, I must omit, and hasten to the honour and service of the time present. From the tower, Fame, a personage properly adorned, thus salutes the great master of the day and triumph:
_The salutation of_ FAME.
Welcome to Virtue’s fortress, strong and clear! Thou art not only safe but glorious here; It is a tower of brightness: such is Truth, Whose strength and grace feel[343] a perpetual youth; The walls are brass, the pyramids fine gold, Which shews ’tis Safety’s and Prosperity’s hold; Clear Conscience is lieutenant; Providence there, Watchfulness, Wisdom, Constancy, Zeal, Care, Are the six warders keep the watch-tower sure, That nothing enters but what’s just and pure; For which effect, both to affright and shame All slothful bloods that blush to look on Fame, An ensign of good actions each displays, That worthy works may justly own their praise; And which is clearliest to be understood, Thine shines amidst thy glorious brotherhood, Circled with arms of honour by those past, As now with love’s arms by the present grac’d; And how thy word[344] does thy true worth display, _Fortunæ mater Diligentia_, Fair Fortune’s mother, all may read and see, Is Diligence, endeavouring industry. See here the glory of illustrious acts, All of thy own fraternity, whose tracts ’Tis comely to pursue, all thy life’s race, Taking their virtues as thou hold’st their place; Some, college-founders, temple-beautifiers, Whose blest souls sing now in celestial quires; Erecters some of granaries for the poor, Though now converted to some rich men’s store,— The more the age’s misery! some so rare For this fam’d city’s government and care, They kept the seat four years, with a fair name; Some, six; but one, the miracle of fame, Which no society or time can match, Twenty-four years complete; he was Truth’s watch, He went so right and even, and the hand Of that fair motion bribe could ne’er make stand; And as men set their watches by the sun, Set justice but by that which he has done, And keep it even; so, from men to men, No magistrate need stir the work agen:[345] It lights into a noble hand to-day, And has past many—many more it may.
By this Tower of Virtue—his lordship being gracefully conducted toward the new Standard—one in a cloudy, ruinous habit, leaning upon the turret, at a trumpet’s sounding suddenly starts and wakes, and, in amazement, throws off his unseemly garments.
What noise is this wakes me from ruin’s womb? Hah! bless me, Time, how brave am I become! Fame fix’d upon my head! beneath me, round, The figures of illustrious princes, crown’d As well for goodness as for state by birth, Which makes ’em true heirs both to heaven and earth! Just six in number, and all blessèd names, Two Henrys, Edward, Mary, Eliza, James, That joy of honest hearts; and there behold His honour’d substitute, whom worth makes bold To undergo the weight of this degree, Virtue’s fair edifice, rais’d up like me: Why, here’s the city’s goodness, shewn in either, To raise[346] two worthy buildings both together; For when they made that lord’s election free, I guess that time their charge did perfect me; Nay, note the city’s bounty in both still; When they restore a ruin, ’tis their will To be so noble in their cost and care, All blemish is forgot when they repair; For what has been re-edified a’ late, But lifts its head up in more glorious state; ’Tis grown a principle, ruins built agen ’Come better’d both in monuments and men; The instance is apparent. On then, lord; E’en at thy entrance thou’dst a great man’s word, The noblest testimony of fair worth That ever lord had, when he first stood forth Presented by the city: lose not then A praise so dear, bestow’d not on all men; Strive to preserve this famous city’s peace, Begun by yon first king, which does increase Now by the last; from Henry that join’d Roses, To James that unites kingdoms, who encloses All in the arms of love, malic’d of none; Our hearts find that, when neighbouring kingdoms groan; Which in the magistrate’s duty may well move A zealous care, in all a thankful love.
After this, for the full close of the forenoon’s Triumph, near St. Laurence-Lane stands a mountain, artfully raised and replenished with fine woolly creatures; Phœbus on the top, shining in a full glory, being circled with the Twelve Celestial Signs. Aries, placed near the principal rays, the proper sign for illustration, thus greets his lordship:
Bright thoughts, joy, and alacrity of heart Bless thy great undertakings! ’tis the part And property of Phœbus with his rays To cheer and to illumine good men’s ways; Eagle-ey’d actions, that dare behold His sparkling globe depart tried all like gold; ’Tis bribery and injustice, deeds of night, That fly the sunbeam, which makes good works bright; Thine look upon’t undazzled; as one beam Faces another, as we match a gem With her refulgent fellow, from thy worth Example sparkles as a star shoots forth. This Mount, the type of eminence and place, Resembles magistracy’s seat and grace; The Sun the magistrate himself implies; These woolly creatures, all that part which lies Under his charge and office; not unfit, Since kings and rulers are, in holy writ, With shepherds parallel’d, nay, from shepherds rear’d, And people and the flock as oft coher’d. Now, as it is the bounty of the sun To spread his splendours and make gladness run Over the drooping creatures, it ought so To be his proper virtue, that does owe To justice his life’s flame, shot from above, To cheer oppressèd right with looks of love; Which nothing doubted, Truth’s reward light on you, The beams of all clear comforts shine upon you!
The great feast ended, the whole state of the Triumph attends upon his lordship, both to Paul’s and homeward; and near the entrance of his lordship’s house, two parts of the Triumph stand ready planted, viz. the Brazen Tower and the triple-crowned Fountain of Justice, this fountain being adorned with the lively figures of all those graces and virtues which belong to the faithful discharging of so high an office; as Justice, Sincerity, Meekness, Wisdom, Providence, Equality, Industry, Truth, Peace, Patience, Hope, Harmony, all illustrated by proper emblems and expressions; as, Justice by a sword; Sincerity by a lamb; Meekness by a dove; Wisdom by a serpent; Providence by an eagle; Equality by a silvered balance; Industry by a golden ball, on which stands a Cupid, intimating that industry brings both wealth and love; Truth with a fan of stars, with which she chases away Error; Peace with a branch of laurel; Patience a sprig of palm; Hope by a silvered anchor; Harmony by a swan; each at night holding a bright-burning taper in her hand, as a manifestation of purity. His lordship being in sight, and drawing near to his entrance, Fame, from the Brazen Tower, closes up the Triumph— his lordship’s honourable welcome, with the noble demonstration of his worthy fraternity’s affection—in this concluding speech:
FAME.
I cannot better the comparison Of thy fair brotherhood’s love than to the sun After a great eclipse; for as the sphere Of that celestial motion shines more clear After the interposing part is spent, Than to the eye before the darkness went Over the bright orb; so their love is shewn With a content past expectation, A care that has been comely, and a cost That has been decent, cheerful, which is most, Fit for the service of so great a state, So fam’d a city, and a magistrate So worthy of it; all has been bestow’d Upon thy triumph, which has clearly shew’d The loves of thy fraternity as great For thy first welcome to thy honour’d seat; And happily is cost requited then, When men grace triumphs more than triumphs men: Diamonds will shine though set in lead; true worth Stands always in least need of setting forth. What makes less noise than merit? or less show Than virtue? ’tis the undeservers owe All to vain-glory and to rumour still, Building their praises on the vulgar will; All their good is without ’em, not their own; When wise men to their virtues are best known. Behold yon Fountain with the tripled crown, And through a cloud the sunbeam piercing down; So is the worthy magistrate made up; The triple crown is Charity, Faith, and Hope, Those three celestial sisters; the cloud too, That’s Care, and yet you see the beam strikes through; A care discharg’d with honour it presages, And may it so continue to all ages! It is thy brotherhood’s arms; how well it fits Both thee and all that for Truth’s honour sits! The time of rest draws near; triumph must cease; Joy to thy heart—to all a blessèd peace!