Part 16

W. went once or twice to the Senate, as the houses met on the 12th or 14th of January, but there was nothing very interesting those first days. The Chamber was taking breath after the holidays and the last ministerial crisis, and giving the new ministry a chance. I think Freycinet had his hands full, but he was quite equal to the task. I went late one afternoon to the Elysée. I had written to Madame Grévy to ask if she would receive me before I left for Italy. When I arrived, the one footman at the door told me Madame Grévy was un peu souffrante, would see me up-stairs. I went up a side staircase, rather dark, preceded by the footman, who ushered me into Madame Grévy's bedroom. It looked perfectly uncomfortable--was large, with very high ceilings, stiff gilt furniture standing against the wall, and the heat something awful,--a blazing fire in the chimney. Madame Grévy was sitting in an armchair, near the fire, a grey shawl on her shoulders and a lace fichu on her head. It was curiously unlike the bedroom I had just left. I had been to see a friend, who was also souffrante. She was lying under a lace coverlet lined with pink silk, lace, and embroidered cushions all around her, flowers, pink lamp-shades, silver flacons, everything most luxurious and modern. The contrast was striking. Madame Grévy was very civil, and talkative,--said she was very tired. The big dinners and late hours she found very fatiguing. She quite understood that I was glad to get away, but didn't think it was very prudent to travel in such bitterly cold weather--and Rome was very far, and wasn't I afraid of fever? I told her I was an old Roman--had lived there for years, knew the climate well, and didn't think it was worse than any other. She said the President had had a visit from W. and a very long talk with him, and that he regretted his departure very much, but that he didn't think "Monsieur Waddington was au fond de son sac." Grévy was always a good friend to W.--on one or two occasions, when there was a sort of cabal against him, Grévy took his part very warmly--and in all questions of home policy and persons W. found him a very keen, shrewd observer--though he said very little--rarely expressed an opinion. I didn't make a very long visit--found my way down-stairs as well as I could--no servant was visible either on the stairs or in the hall, and my own footman opened the big doors and let me out. We got off the first days of February--as, up to the last moment, W. had people to see. We went for two or three days to Bourneville--I had one or two very cold tramps in the woods (very dry) which is quite unusual at this time of the year, but the earth was frozen hard. Inside the woods we were well sheltered, but when we came out on the plain the cold and icy wind was awful. The workmen had made fires to burn the roots and rotten wood, and we were very glad to stop and warm ourselves. Some had their children with them, who looked half perished with cold, always insufficiently clad, but they were quite happy roasting potatoes in the ashes. I was so cold that I tied a woollen scarf around my head, just as the women in Canada do when they go sleighing or skating.

We had a breakfast one day for some of W.'s influential men in the country, who were much disgusted at the turn affairs had taken and that W. could no longer remain minister, but they were very fairly au courant of all that was going on in Parliament, and quite understood that for the moment the moderate, experienced men had no chance. The young Republic must have its fling. Has the country learned much or gained much in its forty years of Republic?

INDEX

Adams, Sir Francis, school friend of M. Waddington Aisne, deputies and senators of Department of the Alexander of Battenberg, Prince Alexander of Russia, Grand Duke (Emperor Alexander III), interview with Alexandra, Queen Ambassadors, treatment of, in Russia Americans, violation of rules of court etiquette by; good-natured tolerance of, in European circles; Lord Lyons's opinion of women of Andrassy, Count, at Berlin Congress; personality of André, Alfred Annamites as dinner guests Aosta, Due d', in Paris at opening of exposition; author's impressions of Arab horses presented to M. Waddington Arco, Count Arnim, Count, German ambassador in Paris; succeeded by Prince Hohenlohe Aumale, Duc d', president of Bazaine court-martial; at ball at British embassy Austria, description of Empress of, when in Paris; stiffness of court etiquette in

Baden, Grand Duchess of, M. Waddington's meeting with Bazaine, Marshal, court-martial of Beaconsfield, Lord, at Berlin Congress Bear as a pet at German embassy Begging letters received by persons in public life Berlin Congress, the; French plenipotentiaries named to the; M. Waddington's account of doings at Berlin Treaty, signing of Bernhardt, Sarah Beust, Comte de, as a musician Bismarck, Count Herbert, story of telegram from; welcomes M. Waddington to Berlin Bismarck, Countess Marie Bismarck, Prince, account of, at Berlin Congress; anxiety of, over French advance in radicalism; suspicions of sincerity of, in anxiety for France; surprise of, over speedy payment of war indemnity by France Bismarck, Princess, M. Waddington's account of Blowitz, M. de, present during meeting of Berlin Congress; M. Waddington's distrust of; Prince Hohenlohe's high opinion of; at Madame de Freycinet's Borel, General Bourneville, days at; a winter house-party at; a winter visit to Breakfasts, political Bridge, remarks on Broglie, Duc de, cabinet of; unpopularity of; break-up of cabinet Brown, John, retainer of Queen Victoria Bunsen, George de Bunsen family

Canrobert, Marshal Capel, Monsignor Cardinals, incidents attending naming of Carnot, M. Sadi Carnot, Madame Carvalho, Madame Casimir Périer, dislike of, for office of president; mentioned; story of Madame Carnot and Cataldi, Monsignor Catholics, views of, concerning Protestants Chanzy, General, appointed ambassador to Russia Châteaux in France Children interest of Frenchwomen in good treatment of, by French of all classes Chinese ambassador, experience at dinner with Cialdini, General, Italian ambassador in Paris Clarence, Duke of, love affair of, with Catholic princess Comédie Française, finished style of artists of the Compiègne, a scene at, during the Empire Conciergerie Mr. Gladstone at the interest of American visitors in the Conservatoire, Sunday afternoon concerts at the marriages made at the change effected in dress of chorus of the Monsignor Czascki at the Convent of the Soeurs Augustines in the rue de la Santé Corti Italian plenipotentiary to Congress of Berlin feeling of, over establishment of Tunisian protectorate by France Costumes, national, seen in Paris during exposition year Country people lack of interest of French, in form of government attitude of, in election of 1877 enthusiasm of, aroused over Republic Croizette, Théâtre Français artist Cyprus, cession of, to England Czascki, Monsignor, papal nunzio

Deauville, a vacation at Décazes, Duc appointed to Foreign Office advice on social etiquette from Duc de Broglie contrasted with Denmark, Crown Prince of in Paris during exposition at ball at British embassy at ball at the Quai d'Orsay Desprey, Monseigneur, created a Cardinal Desprey, M. a plenipotentiary of France at Berlin Congress quoted on treatment of ambassadors in Russia named ambassador to Rome Diplomatists antagonistic attitude of, toward the Republic anomalous and mistaken behaviour of superficiality of majority of Dufaure, M. appointed Président du Conseil now cabinet formed by Dufferin, Lord

Election of 1877 Elysée, ceremonies attending naming of Cardinals at English, Monsignor English visitors to Paris in 1879 Eugénie, Empress at Compiègne description of, and reminiscences concerning Exposition Universelle of 1878 closing of good moral effect of

Fan, an autographed, as souvenir of Berlin Congress Farmers, usual indifference of French, to form of government enthusiasm of, over the Republic Ferry, Jules Fitz-Maurice, Lord Edmond France, astonishing rapidity of recovery of, after Franco-Prussian War Frederick-Charles, Prince French people self-centred attitude of conventions in dress of girls interest of women in their children lack of regard for, on part of Northern races defence of fine qualities of difficulties of interpreting conversation, cramped lives of middle-class women religious question among Freycinet, M. de appointed Minister of Public Works ability displayed by, as a Republican statesman excellent qualities of succeeds M. Waddington as premier official changes made by Freycinet, Madame de author's visit to, at Quai d'Orsay

Gambetta, Léon, manners and appearance of force of oratory of, in campaign of 1877 mentioned appreciation by, of value of Tunisian protectorate comparison of Grévy and General amnesty, discussion of the. Germans, want of tact characteristic; position of women among; advance in comfort and elegance among. Germany, feeling in, over radicalism in France, Gérôme, J. L., as a table companion. Gladstones, visits from the. Glynn, Admiral, school friend of M. Waddington. Gortschakoff, Prince, quoted on death of Thiers; at Berlin Congress; a diplomatist of the old-fashioned type. Grand Opera in Paris. Grange, Chateau de la, home of Lafayette. Grant, President and Mrs., in Paris. Greek national dress. Grévy, election of, to presidency; good figure cut by, in society; hats bestowed upon two Cardinals by; disappointment of, in the Republic; rivalry between Gambetta and; Queen Victoria's meeting with; feelings of regard for one another held by M. Waddington and, Grévy, Madame; unknown to society upon husband's election to presidency; first reception held by; question of necessity of presence of, at the Elysée; receptions held by; author's last visit to; Grévy, Mademoiselle, at Prince Hohenlohe's reception.

Halanzier, director of the Grand Opera. Hatzfeldt, Count, story of Liszt and; personal charm of, Hélène d'Orléans, Princess, love affair of Duke of Clarence and. Hoare, Sir Henry. Hohenlohe, Prince, German ambassador to France; pleasant manners of; at Berlin Congress; reception given to President Grévy by; reports by, concerning feeling in Germany over French radicalism. Hohenlohe, Princess, striking personality of; at Madame Grévy's first reception. Holland, Lady. Holland House, London, 236. Hôtel de Ville, ball at the, in 1878. Houghton, Lord. Humbert, King.

Ignatieff, General. Isabella, Queen, at Marshal de MacMahon's reception; Description of, and account of audience given author by; Dinner given Marshal and Madame de MacMahon by. Italians, author's doubts concerning.

Japanese, reported intelligence of. Jockey Club, Paris, political talk at the.

Karolyi, at Berlin Congress. Kellogg, Clara Louise, with the Waddingtons. King, General Rufus. Kruft, chef du matériel at Quai d'Orsay.

Lafayette, Marquis de, interest of American visitors in things relating to. Lasteyrie, Count de. Layard, Sir Henry. Leo XIII, election of. Liszt, meetings with, and stories of. Longchamp, review of Paris garrison at. Lord Mayor of London at the Grand Opera, Paris. Louis Philippe, memories of. Lutteroth, M., uncle of M. Waddington; information concerning Royalist circles from; interesting friends of. Luxembourg, Palace of the; gardens of the. Lyons, Lord, lesson in diplomatic politeness from; ball given by, during exposition year; at Madame Grévy's first reception; memories of Washington ministry by.

MacMahon, Fabrice de. MacMahon, Marshal de, President of French Republic; at the Longchamp review; receptions of, at Versailles; attitude of, toward cabinet of 1876; official dinner given by, to diplomatic corps and the Government; dismissal of cabinet by (May 16,1877); dislike of, for the Republic and the Republicans; official receptions and dinners of; Mrs. Grant and; visits M. Waddington at Deauville; dislike of, for office of president; preference of, for his military title; fete given by, at Versailles during exposition year; resignation of; delight at resumption of private life. MacMahon, Maréchale de, description of visit to; visit to Madame Waddington from, upon dismissal of cabinet; chilly attitude of, toward things Republican. Madeleine, service at the, for King Victor Emmanuel. Marguerite de Nemours, Princesse, author's visit to. Marquis, anecdotes of a dictatorial. Marriages, made at the Conservatoire or the Opéra Comique; Favourable criticism of arranged. Martin, Henri, senator of the Aisne. Mathilde, Princesse, meeting with; salon of. Mendes Leal, Portuguese minister. Molins, Marquise, Spanish ambassadress. Mollard, Introducteur des Ambassadeurs. Mommsen, Theodor. Morny, Duc de, a founder of Deauville; famous entertainments of. Morocco, mission from. Murat, Princess Anna (Duchesse de Mouchy).

Napoleon III, Emperor, at Compiègne, Napoleon's tomb, interest of American visitors in. National Assembly, description of sittings of. New Year's day reception at the President's. Ney, Marshal, execution of, recalled. Nuns, the life of.

Oliffe, Sir Joseph, a founder of Deauville. Opera Comique, making of marriages at the; artists of the. Opposition leader, joys of position of, Orléans, Due d', at Countess de Ségur's salon, Orléans family, members of, at official reception given by the Waddingtons; members of, at Lord Lyons's ball. Orloff, Prince, Russian ambassador; attractive personality of; at Prince Hohenlohe's reception to President Grévy,

Paris, reasons against holding of Parliament in; gaiety of, during exposition; return of the Parliament to. Pedro de Bragance, Emperor of Brazil. Pie, Monsignor, created a Cardinal, Piémont, Prince and Princesse de. Pius IX, death of and funeral observances. Poles, author's lack of confidence in. Pontécoulant, Comte de, chef de cabinet under M. Waddington. Pothnau, Admiral, appointed ambassador to Great Britain; Annoyance of, over offer of London embassy to M. Waddington. Protestants, views of, held by Catholics; isolated position of the French.

Quai d'Orsay, description of house of Foreign Minister at the; removal of Waddingtons to; receiving and entertaining at; large ball given at; English visitors at; view from, on cold winter nights; departure from; formal visit to Madame de Freycinet at. Quartier Latin, the modern.

Reay, Lord and Lady. Receptions, customs at official. Renan, Ernst, description of. Renault, Léon, préfet de police. Republic, strength of feeling against the, in Paris "society;" enthusiasm of farmers over the; disappointment of statesmen in the; moderation of feeling in society circles toward the, at present time. Republicans, proposed uprising of (1877); work of, in election of 1877; victory of. Reviews at Longchamp. Rome, early social life in; Account of reception in, where royalties were present. Roumanian woman's dress. Royalties, first social encounters with; present at opening ceremony of exposition; experiences with, at ball given by Lord Lyons at British embassy; risks run by, at fête at Versailles; present at the Waddingtons' ball at Quai d'Orsay. Rudolph, Archduke, crown prince of Austria. Russia, sadness of people of; Distance between princes and ordinary mortals in; pains taken to give ambassadors a pleasant impression of.

St. Vallier, Count de; Senator of the Aisne; Plenipotentiary to Berlin Congress; ambassador to Germany; reports brought from Germany by. Salisbury, Lord, at Berlin Congress. Salon réservé, passing of the. Salons, political. Sartiges, Comte and Comtesse de. Sartiges, Vicomte de. Say, Léon, as a speaker in the National Assembly; Minister of Finance; attitude of, toward French protectorate of Tunis. Say, Madame. Schouvaloff, Count; at Berlin Congress. Ségur, Countess de, political salon of. Seine, freezing of the. Shah of Persia, experiences with the. Shooting expeditions. Shops, trading at small. Sibbern, Swedish minister. Simon, Jules, dismissal of cabinet of. Singing, comments on French. Skating experiences in Paris in 1879. Soeurs Augustines, Convent and Hospital of the. Sullivan, Arthur, in Paris.

Théâtre Français, nights at the. Thiers, M; superseded as President of Republic by MacMahon; receptions at house of; comment of Prince Gortschakoff upon; condition in 1877 and sudden death of. Thiers, Madame. Thorndike, Miss (Comtesse de Sartiges). Tiffany, success of, with French, at exposition of 1878. Travelling, a Frenchwoman's views of. Troubetskoi, Princess Lize. Trouville, vogue of, as a watering-place. Tunis, French protectorate of, arranged by M. Waddington.

Versailles, meetings of National Assembly at; terraces and gardens at; Marshal de MacMahon's receptions at; compared with Paris as a meetingplace of Assembly; badly managed fête given by Marshal de MacMahon at; removal of Parliament to Paris from. Victor Emmanuel, death of, and service at the Madeleine for. Victoria, Princess, charming character of; strong English proclivities of. Victoria, Queen, M. Waddington received by, in Paris; prestige of, in France; expresses approval of M. Waddington. Vienna, stiffness of court at. Vogtio, Marquis de, a visit from, at Deauville.

Waddington, Francis, son of Madame Waddington. Waddington, Richard, senator of the Seine Inférieure; family life at country home of; early career of; story of the Prince of Wales and. Waddington, Madame Richard. Waddington, William, marriage of Madame Waddington and; Deputy to National Assembly from Department of the Aisne; brief term as Minister of Public Instruction; method of speaking in National Assembly; criticisms of, by opposition newspapers; second appointment as Minister of Public Instruction (1876); life of, as minister; dismissal of, from the ministry; fears of arrest of; attitude toward proposed Republican uprising; electoral campaign of; elected senator in 1877; named to the Foreign Office in new cabinet formed by Dufaure; life of, as Foreign Minister; named plenipotentiary to Berlin Congress;

## activities of, at the Congress;

French protectorate of Tunis arranged by; remains at Foreign Office upon accession of Grévy, and becomes prime minister; onerous life of; reception of, by Queen Victoria; interview with Grand Duke Alexander of Russia; determines to quit office; last days as premier and Foreign Minister; mild attacks on, by political opponents; shooting parties at Grévy's and Casimir Périer's; gives over ministry to Freycinet; offered the London Embassy, but declines; President Grévy's regard for. Waddington, Madame, mother of William Waddington. Waddington, Madame William, marriage; early experiences in Paris after Franco-Prussian War; anecdote of Count Herbert Bismarck's telegram to; story of early attempt to arrange a marriage for; at first big dinner at the Ministry of Public Instruction; first social meetings with royalties; experience in thanking the artists at reception; visit of Maréchale de MacMahon to, upon dismissal of cabinet; feelings on moving into foreign ministry; trials over reception days; experience with Chinese ambassador at Marshal de MacMahon's dinner to General Grant; audience given to, by Queen Isabella of Spain; at Lord Lyons's ball, and meeting with Princesse Mathilde; received by Empress Eugénie; does not accompany husband to Berlin Congress; meeting with the Shah of Persia; in crush at ball at Hôtel de Ville; exciting adventures at fête at Versailles; ball given by, at the Quai d'Orsay; attends Madame Grévy's first reception; at naming of Cardinals at the Elysée; conversations of, with Catholic friends; growing fondness of, for the rive gauche; skating experiences of; crosses the Seine on the ice; visits of farewell received by, upon leaving Quai d'Orsay; pays formal visit to Madame de Freycinet at Quai d'Orsay; visit to Madame Grévy; departure from Paris and short stay at Bourneville. Wales, Prince of, story of Richard Waddington and; liking of Parisians for; Madame Waddington presented to Princesse Mathilde by; at ball at the Quai d'Orsay. Washington, D. C., characteristics of; Lord Lyons's reminiscences of life at; a French conception of. William I, Emperor, attempted assassination of. Winter of 1879, severity and hardships of. Wittgenstein, Prince. Women, adaptability of American; cramped lives of middle-class French; more uncompromising than men in political views; ambitions of, for husbands and sons.

Zuylen, Baron von, Dutch minister; as a musician. Zuylen, Madame von.