Part 4

It is uncertain when and by whom the church was built. It is only certain that it was erected during the Saxon period. It is distinguished in several reigns as a royal free chapel, and is styled “The Church of St. Juliana, the Virgin.” In 1223 Henry III. attached to it the chapel of Ford; but Henry IV. annexed its revenues, with those of St. Michael’s “in the Castle”—a foundation now destroyed—to the new college of Battlefield, “reserving only a small allowance for the minister.” The first structure was Anglo-Norman, but having become dilapidated, was, with the exception of the tower, taken down in 1748. The foundation stone of the present structure was laid in August of the same year. The first service was held in August, 1750. The exterior of the southern side was considerably altered and improved in 1846–47 through the generosity of the late Rev. R. Scott. Opposite St. Julian’s Church, at the entrance of Milk Street, is an old stone building which has seen remarkable changes of fortune. Anciently and originally it was the

HALL OF THE CLOTHWORKERS OR SHEARMEN,

a company which was incorporated in the reign of Edward IV. The feast day was on June 6th, and the apprentices up to the year 1588 used to set up a green tree “decked with garlands gay” before the hall, around which there was great rejoicing, coquetting, vowing, dancing and other festive proceedings. But in 1588 the custom ceased. The “green tree,” or Maypole was not enough. A bon-fire was added, and a disturbance ensued among the crowd. The Rev. Mr. Tomkies, a minister of St. Mary’s, appeared among the excited company, but his persuasions to peace only exasperated them. The Bailiffs were compelled to interfere, and henceforth the practice was discontinued. In the time of Elizabeth six hundred shearmen were employed here in dressing the wool on one side of a coarse material called Welsh webs, which were brought, chiefly from Montgomeryshire, to a market then held every week in the town. The process having been found to weaken the texture of the cloths, the occupation of the company was gone. From manufacturing purposes the hall was turned into a theatre, then converted to a Wesleyan place of worship, then secularized into an assembly room, then elevated into an assize court, then utilized into a shop, and, lastly, transformed into an auction mart. Proceeding up the street we presently see

OLD ST. CHAD’S CHURCH.

The foundation is attributed to one of the Mercian kings who built it upon the site of a palace belonging to the Princes of Powis which was burned down by the Saxons. It was a collegiate church, and had a dean and ten prebendaries. It was partially destroyed by fire in 1393 through the negligence of one John Plomer, a workman, who carelessly left his fire while he was engaged in repairing the leads. Plomer, seeing the result of his thoughtlessness, endeavoured to make his escape, but in running near the Severn was drowned—as a judgment? In consideration of the damage thus sustained Richard II. graciously granted to the inhabitants a remission of their fee-farm rent, and exemption for three years from the payment of taxes upon the understanding that they should re-build the edifice. This they did. In 1547, by order of the bailiffs of the town, the pictures of Mary Magdalene and of St. Chad were removed from the church and burned in the Market Square. On July 9th, 1788, another disaster befell this unfortunate structure. Its decayed tower, shaken by the vibrations occasioned by the chimes, suddenly fell down, and crushed the nave and transepts into fearful desolation. Some masons who were at work upon it fortunately escaped. The church was restored in 1796. The interior, which contains a number of monuments, one to the memory of the celebrated Rev. Job Orton amongst others, has recently been improved and modernised. In the churchyard several members of well-known county families have received interment, such as Lyster, Vincent Corbett of Moreton Corbett, Hugh Owen, M.D., Mytton, Burton, Ireland, Dr. Rowland Lee, Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry and Lord President of the Marches, and Captain Benbow, the officer who was shot in 1651. Benbow’s grave is at the end of the pathway adjacent to Belmont.

It was in this church that the dawning light of the Reformation first beamed in Shrewsbury. That light gleamed in the preaching of William Thorpe, an ardent follower of Wickliffe. He denounced the dogmas of the Romish Church with the fervour common to the early Reformers. For his preaching he was confined in the prison here, and then removed to London to be examined by the archbishop, who, it is conjectured, granted him his liberty.

At the south-east of the churchyard up to the year 1858, stood or rather were propped up and made to stand, St. Chad’s Almshouses—worn, ruinous cottages, which served admirably for the purposes of animated nature. They were founded in 1409 for old men and women by Bennet Tupton, a public brewer. The following story, relative to Mr. Tupton and his daughter, is interesting:—“This yeare, 1424, and in the second yeare of King Henry 6th, one Bennet Tupton, beere brewer, dyed, who dwellyd in a brue house in St. Chad’s Church Yard in Shrewsbury, which afterwards was, and now of late days is, called the Colledge,” and was buried in St. Chad’s Church. “He left behynd hym a daughter of his namy’d Blase Tupton, who came by chance to be a leper, and made the ‘oryell’ which goeth along the west syde of the sayde church yard, and so came aloft to hear service through a door made in the church wall, and so passed usually upon the leadder unto a glass window through which she dayly saw and dayly hurde servys as long as she lyvyd.” The houses were demolished in 1858.

From this church we turn down a passage on the right hand side of the street, called now GOLDEN CROSS PASSAGE. Formerly it was denominated Sextry Passage, a corruption of Sacristy. The sacristy of the church is supposed to have been situated within it. The “Golden Cross” inn appears to have been a tavern in 1495, the proof being that in that year 13s. 2d. is said in the archives of the Corporation to have been expended “for wine on the king’s gentlemen in the sextrie.”

Emerging into High Street again we walk a few yards down, and on the left hand come to the UNITARIAN CHAPEL, which was formed on October 25th, 1691, by the Rev. John Bryan, M.A., ejected from St. Chad’s, and the Rev. Francis Tallents, ejected from St. Mary’s, in 1662, for the use of a Presbyterian congregation. One of the successors of the founders was the Rev. Job Orton, who ministered from 1741 to 1766, when he removed to Kidderminster. Shortly after his removal a secession took place, which resulted in the formation of the Independent Church, Swan Hill. That “divine madman,” Coleridge, preached in the High Street Chapel, and Hazlitt walked from Wem to hear him.

Further down the street, and on the right hand side, at the bottom of Grope Lane is what was once the MERCERS’ HALL. A few paces beyond is a fine Elizabethan house now establishment of Mr. Springford, mercer, which for a long period prior to the present century was set apart as the Judges’ Lodgings. The large square opposite is the

MARKET SQUARE.

Conspicuous is the statute of LORD CLIVE, from a model by Baron Marochetti. As a work of art it has received high commendation; as a public monument it would be attractive if it were not bare—it would be an ornament if it were not destitute of all those auxiliaries which give to such objects a handsome finish. The magnificent stone building on the left is the COUNTY HALL, built at a cost of £12,000, and opened at the March assizes, 1837. This handsome edifice was unfortunately nearly completely destroyed by fire on the 17th November, 1880. Near it is the old MARKET HOUSE, a structure which presents a fine appearance, and which for ornamental decoration is not surpassed, if equalled, by any edifice of the same kind in any town in the kingdom. It was built in 1596, and the fact is recorded in an inscription above the front arch:—“The xvth day of June was this building begun, William Jones and Thomas Charlton, Gent, bailiffs, and was erected and covered in their time. 1596.” On the site there had stood five timber houses, two of which were erected in 1567 by Alderman John Dawes for “the saffe placinge of corn from wether, so that the owners thereof may stannd saffe and drye,” and the other three by Mr. Humphrey Onslow in 1571. Immediately over the inscription just quoted is a tabernacled niche containing a statue and arms. Various have been the conjectures as to the personage represented by the statue. Some say that it is the Black Prince; others that it is Llewellyn, Prince of Wales; others again that it is Llewellyn’s brother David, who was executed at the High Cross; others that it is Prince Arthur, eldest son of Henry VII. Roger Coke alludes to one of these opinions when, speaking of General Monk’s purpose to restore Charles II., he says, “and the end for which a free Parliament was called was interpreted by hanging out the king’s picture, which was no less gazed upon by the Londoners than by the Welshmen at King Taffey’s effigies on the Welsh gate, Shrewsbury.” The gate referred to stood on the old Welsh Bridge, over which, in a niche, was this identical statue, and when the tower which surmounted the gate was destroyed about 1770, the statue was removed to the Market Hall. The general belief is that the statue represents Richard, Duke of York, father of Edward IV. Vexed by all this uncertainty, has not the antiquarian reason to mournfully sigh,

“_O that those lips had language_.”

Several notable incidents have occurred in the Market Square. In 1547 the pictures of Our Lady from St. Mary’s Church, of Mary Magdalene and of St. Chad from St. Chad’s Church, were publicly burned here because they were supposed to be coloured with Popery. In 1579, on the 18th of August, the assizes were held in this place, “open and in the face of day.” The judicial bench consisted of the scaffolding of some new building, and from this dignified seat justice was dispensed. On the 17th of July, 1584, the public were entertained with a play performed in the Square by a company belonging to the Earl of Essex. Six years later, in the month of July, 1590, there was more public acting. A platform was erected for feats of skill, and a Hungarian, with a number of the Queen’s players, succeeded in some extraordinary achievements in the way of tumbling, rope-dancing—achievements of such an astonishing sort that “the like had never before been seen in Shrewsbury.” In the latter part of December, 1740, a portion of the roof of the Market Hall fell down, destroying life and property to the enormous extent of two millers’ horses, which were so inconsiderate as to stand underneath the covering. Thus this central part of the town reveals to us the development of local history. Once it presented a proof of an apprehension of Popery which led to an act of bigotry, then it marked the administration of justice, then it afforded room for the histrionic art, and then it was the stage for introducing to the good folk of Shrewsbury some wonderful gymnastic games.

The immediate vicinity of the Square is rich in antique buildings. The Mercer’s Hall and the old Judges’ Lodgings have already been just glanced at. Now, in turning to the left opposite the latter another fine old structure presents itself. It is IRELAND’S MANSION, erected about 1570 as the town residence of the ancient family of Ireland. It was, of course, one house only, but it is now divided into three. Still keeping to the left we find ourselves in front of

THE NEW MARKET,

a handsome and commodious building, designed by Mr. Robert Griffiths, of Stafford, and constructed by Mr. Barlow, of Stoke-upon-Trent. The foundation stone was laid in 1867 by Mr. John Thomas Nightingale, then mayor of the borough. The total cost reached a sum not far short of £50,000. The market supplies a great and long-felt want, and, architecturally, adds to the attractions of the town. The Market brings us into

SHOPLATCH

—another peculiar name. In the time of Edward II. the appellation was written Sheteplach, then Sotteplace and Soetteplace, probably pronounced in accordance with the usage of the period, Shottplace. The name was derived from that of the Salopian family of Soto who had their residence here, and whose house—a portion of which still remains in a passage on the left—formed the principal property in the street. One chronicler indulges the fancy that the origin of the first syllable, Shop, Sotte, may be found in _sote_, which Chaucer uses for sweet, and that the place may have been called Sotteplace from its situation or conveniences. Unfortunately we are bound to reject this poetic derivation of the name, and accept the more common-place and prosaic etymology.

A few steps from the termination of Shoplatch stands THE THEATRE, at the bottom of

ST. JOHN’S HILL.

It was formerly called Chorlton Hall, from the fact of it having been for several centuries the residence and property of the family of Chorlton, who were Lords of Powis. The exact time of its erection is unknown, but in the year 1326 it was held by John de Charlton, who, by the permission of Edward II., fortified it with an embattled stone wall. It fell into a ruinous state, and remained neglected until it was purchased about 1830 by Mr. Henry Bennett, who raised it, and then erected upon the site the existing theatre. The exterior, adorned in its three niches with statues of Shakespeare and of the comic and tragic muse, has a neat appearance, and the interior is admirably adapted for dramatic purposes.

By way of contrast to the theatre is the WESLEYAN CHAPEL, which stands on the right about the centre of St. Johns Hill, and a few yards higher up is another building formerly a chapel, “hid from view” in a passage, built for the Quakers in 1746, but now used as a meeting place for the Atcham Board of Guardians. Leaving, however, an inspection of these we cross the road from the theatre and walk down

BELLSTONE,

in which is situated the National Provincial Bank. Why is the street called Bellstone? Some think that the denomination anciently was Ben Stone, that _Ben_ was an abbreviation of Benedictine, and that the bank, which is an ancient building, was occupied by some members of the Benedictine order. Others say that the house used to be named The Bent Stone, from the bent appearance of the large stone which then, and now, lies near it. Others, again, conjecture that the stone at one time resembled a bell either in colour or shape, and for that reason the house, and subsequently the locality of the house, came to be called the Bell Stone, that is, the house at or near the Bell Stone. The hill on the left is called

CLAREMONT HILL,

anciently Claro Monte. On the top of it there was in the days of old, a gate, as an entrance to the town, which was often called Gatepoll, from _poll_, an obsolete word for summit, Claremont Hill being the highest part of the town walls.

The long narrow street in a direct line from Bellstone is

BARKER STREET,

which in the infancy of our history bore the more aristocratic title of Romboldesham, Rumaldesham, and Romboldi, the three names being used indiscriminately in various reigns. The modern term is simply an equivalent for Tanners’ Street. We only take a look down Barker Street, and then turn to the right into

CLAREMONT STREET,

once known by the euphonious title of Doglane. Here we see on the left the oldest BAPTIST CHAPEL in Shrewsbury, built in 1780. A Baptist church, however, was formed in Shrewsbury as early as 1620. The chapel was enlarged in 1810, and modernised and renovated in 1867. From Claremont Street we reach

MARDOL,

or, as it was anciently written, Marlesford, Mardefole, and in the time of Henry VIII. Mardvole, from the name of the ford through the Severn, _Mar_, and _Leas_ (or pastures), which is by interpretation, the ford at the marly pastures. There is no object of historical interest in this thoroughfare, but in the lane about half way down, called

HILL’S LANE,

on the left is a memorial of antiquity in the shape of an old structure known as ROWLEY’S MANSION, which is said to be the first brick building erected in Shrewsbury. It was built in 1618 by William Rowley, a draper, who was admitted a burgess of the town in 1594 and created an alderman in 1633. His granddaughter married John Hill, Esq., who lived in the mansion in splendid hospitality, and in honour of whom the name of the street was changed from Knockin Street to Hill’s Lane. It is now used as a general storehouse, and the moderns with their barbarous notions of utility have removed the curious portal, the devices in stucco from the great chamber, the oak wainscotting, and the mullions from the windows. Adjoining it is a chapel belonging to the Welsh Calvinistic Methodists.

Returning to Mardol we continue our observations by turning to the left. At the bottom of Mardol on the right is the comparatively new SMITHFIELD ROAD, opened in 1850, as an ingress from the western portion of the county to the cattle market. It leads to the station, and to the suburbs of Coton Hill and Castle Foregate.

The QUAY on the right was built by Mr. Rowland Jenks in 1607, and Mr. Jenks was ordered by the Corporation “to permit all manner of barges, of all persons, to load at the said Quay, taking for every barge load of wood or coal twelvepence, for a ton of other goods—off a burgess twopence, and off a foreigner fourpence.” A few yards beyond, but on the other side of the street, just as we enter Bridge Street, are ST. CHAD’S PAROCHIAL SCHOOLS, built and opened in 1865 at a cost of £3,230.

Of course, the principal object here is the

WELSH BRIDGE.

In the reign of Henry II. it was called St. George’s Bridge. Why? Because St. George’s Chapel, with the Hospital of St. John to which the chapel was annexed—both were taken down early in the time of Elizabeth—was situated near it, in that portion now distinguished by the exquisite appellation of The Stew. The name was altered to indicate its geographical position as the road which leads to North Wales. It is conjectured that St. George’s Bridge was built by Edward IV. It consisted of seven arches, and had a gate at each end. The gate at the Welsh or Frankwell end was secured by an outwork, and over it was the statue of a man in armour which has been referred to as having been transferred to the Market Hall. The gate at the Mardol end of the bridge was surmounted by a massive tower with a house and battlement. The tower was destroyed about 1770, and the bridge itself, damaged by the frequent floods, was demolished immediately after. A contribution was then started for the erection of a new one. The Corporation liberally gave £4,000, and in a short time the necessary sum of £8,000, was procured upon the voluntary principle. The stone was laid in 1793, and the structure completed in 1795. It has five semi-circular arches, a fine balustrade, is 266 feet in length, and 30 feet in breadth. At the end of the bridge we come into

FRANKWELL,

from _Frankville_, the villa, residence, or town of the Franks who, according to Domesday book, inhabited forty-five burgesses’ houses in this portion of the town. We glance to the right, and see a neat chapel belonging to the Welsh Presbyterians, usually called FRANKWELL CHAPEL. Our way, however, lies to the left, and we proceed until we reach on the right

ST. GEORGE’S CHURCH,

dedicated to the tutelar saint of England from the fact of its proximity to the Chapel of St. George. It was built in 1832 by public subscription. It is cruciform in plan, and has a small tower at the west end. The style, with the exception of the tower, is the lancet, or early-pointed. It will accommodate about 760 persons, and 460 of the sittings are free and unappropriated. From St. George’s Church we step back again into the main street, and instead of going on to the MOUNT where Cadogan’s Fort stood, we cross to the right by the “String of Horses,” a half-timbered gabled building erected in 1576. Proceeding on we pass Chapel Yard, so called from its having been the yard attached to Cadogan’s Chapel, and arrive at

MILLINGTON’S HOSPITAL,

a beautiful structure in a beautiful situation. It consists of a pedimented front, surmounted by an open cupola, and a portico, flanked by wings, forming dwellings for the poor. The Chapel, which is also used as a schoolroom, is in the centre. It contains a portrait of the founder, Mr. James Millington, draper, of Shrewsbury, who built and endowed it in 1734. After the death of Mr. Millington, who bequeathed his entire fortune to it, the landed estate was disputed in Chancery, and went to the heirs-at-law, the personal property being assigned to the support of the charity. There are a schoolmaster and schoolmistress who reside on the premises, and a chaplain who reads prayers daily. The resident hospitallers number twelve old men or women who are selected out of Frankwell, and who, in addition to the apartments, receive annual gratuities of gowns and coats, coals and money, and a weekly quantity of bread. A number of boys and girls receive their education at the hospital, and are afterwards apprenticed or sent out as servants. Both boys and girls receive gifts of money on their “entering into the business of life,” and rewards are given to those who can produce certificates of good conduct during a certain period of service.

A little further on are the new BARRACKS or BRIGADE DEPÔT, built at a very large cost, and opened in 1880.

In the extremity of Frankwell beyond Millington’s Hospital there is nothing worthy of our attention; and, therefore, keeping to the left, we hasten to the bottom of Port Hill where we call out “boat!” and are ferried across the Severn to land in

THE QUARRY,