PART I

.—1840.

LETTER I. PAGE

PROJECT FOR SPENDING THE SUMMER ON THE BANKS OF THE LAKE OF COMO.—FINE SPRING.—STORMY WEATHER.—PASSAGE FROM DOVER TO CALAIS.—THE DILIGENCE.—PARIS.—PLAN OF OUR ROUTE 1

LETTER II.

JOURNEY TO METZ.—A DAY SPENT AT METZ.—PROCEED TO TRÈVES.—ENTER PRUSSIA.—TRÈVES.—VOYAGE DOWN THE MOSELLE.—SLOW STEAMBOAT UP THE RHINE TO MAYENCE.—RAILROAD TO FRANCFORT 11

LETTER III.

DARMSTADT.—HEIDELBERG.—CARLSRUHE.—BADEN-BADEN 31

LETTER IV.

OFFENBERG.—ETTENHEIM.—FREYBURG.—THE HÖLLENTHAL.—THE BLACK FOREST.—ARRIVE AT SCHAFFHAUSEN 42

LETTER V.

THE RHINE.—ZURICH.—JOURNEY TO COIRE.—VIA MALA.—THE SPLUGEN.—CHIAVENNA.—COLICO.—THE STEAMBOAT ON THE LAKE OF COMO TO CADENABBIA 49

LETTER VI.

ALBERGO GRANDE DELLA CADENABBIA.—THE BROTHERS BRENTANI.—THE VIEW FROM OUR WINDOWS.—THE MADMAN.—ARRIVAL OF THE BOAT 64

LETTER VII.

EXCURSIONS ON THE LAKE.—MANZONI’S ODE OF “CINQUE MAGGIO” 75

LETTER VIII.

VOYAGE TO COMO.—THE OPERA.—WALK TOWARDS MENAGGIO 88

LETTER IX.

ITALIAN POETRY.—ITALIAN MASTER.—THE COUNTRY PEOPLE.—THE FULCINO.—GRAND FESTA.—ADIEU TO CADENABBIA 95

LETTER X.

VOYAGE TO LECCO.—BERGAMO.—THE OPERA OF “MOSÈ.”—MILAN 105

LETTER XI.

NON-ARRIVAL OF A LETTER.—DEPARTURE OF MY FRIENDS.—SOLITUDE.—THE DUOMO.—TABLE D’HÔTE.—AUSTRIAN GOVERNMENT 114

LETTER XII.

DEPARTURE FROM MILAN.—JOURNEY ACROSS THE SIMPLON.—LAKE OF GENEVA.—LYONS.—STEAMBOAT TO CHALONS.—DILIGENCE TO PARIS.—HISTORY OF THE EVENTFUL JOURNEY ACROSS MONT ST. GOTHARD 125

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