Part 6

On the 12th the launch was lowered to look for a better anchorage near Angel Island, which is the largest in this bay, and many good places were found. It was also thought a good idea to examine another island, which was found to be very steep and barren and would not afford shelter even for the launch. This island was called "Alcatraz"[50] on account of the abundance of those birds that were on it.

On the 13th the vessel moved to another anchorage with nine brazas of water at pistol shot of the land. On the 21st, the first pilot, Don Jose de Canizares, returned from an expedition on which he had been sent a few days before and made his report. On the same day, the second pilot, Don Juan B. Aguirre, went, with fresh men, in the launch to try to find the party which the commander of the presidio had promised to send to San Francisco by land. The second pilot did not see the party, but explored an estero which enters the land about twelve leagues[51].

On the 23d fifteen Indians came on a raft and were taken on board, where they were entertained and given something to eat. They learned how to ask for bread in Spanish.

From this day to the 6th of September, the explorations of the Bay of San Francisco continued, and first pilot Don Jose de Canizares was instructed to make his report and the map of the bay.

On September 7th an attempt was made to go to sea for the return voyage, but the rudder was injured by a submerged rock on which the current had carried the vessel.

From this day to September 18th, the time was passed in repairing the rudder and making preparations for the return voyage, which took place on that day, going to Monterey, where they arrived the following day.

In order to make the necessary repairs to the ship and pass the equinox in good shelter, the San Carlos remained in the harbor of Monterey till October 13, 1775, when she started for San Blas, where she arrived on November 6th of the same year.

Report of Don Juan Manuel de Ayala Commander of the Packet Boat San Carlos to Don Antonio Maria Bucareli Viceroy of New Spain On the Examination of the Port of San Francisco

Your Excellency:--I have finished the orders under which I took command of the San Carlos, returning to this port of San Blas today, November 6th, after having visited the ports of Monterey and San Francisco.

Although Your Excellency will see in the account of my examination, together with the pilot, Don Jose Canizares' report of his examination and the map he made of this port, the nature of the work done. I will, notwithstanding in this, give a brief account, that shows the port of San Francisco to be one of the best that I have seen on this coast from Cape Horn.

After one hundred and one days of navigation, I arrived at the harbor of Monterey, where I had to remain till July 27th, discharging the cargo and making some repairs necessary for the safety of my vessel. On July 27th, I started in search of the Port of San Francisco, where I arrived on the night of August 5th. I remained there forty-four days, inspecting by myself, or by my pilot, with all possible accuracy, everything that pertains to this matter.

It is true that this port is good, not only for the beautiful harmony that offers to the view, but because it does not lack very good fresh water, wood, and ballast in abundance. Its climate though cold, is healthful and free from those troublesome fogs which we had daily in Monterey, because the fogs here hardly reach the entrance of the port, and once inside the harbor, the weather is very clear. To these many advantages is to be added the best: and this is that the heathen Indians around this port are so constant in their good friendship and so gentle in their manners, that I received them with pleasure on board several times, and I had the sailors frequently visit with them on land; so that from the first to the last day, they remained the same in their behavior. This made me present them with trinkets, beads, and biscuit; the last they learned to ask for clearly in our language.

There is no doubt that this good friendship was a great comfort to us, enabling us to make with less fear the reconnaissance that was ordered of me. Although in a letter written by Your Excellency to my predecessor, Don Miguel Manrique, dated January 2d, I read that it was possible we might find in San Francisco the land expedition undertaken by Captain Don Juan de Anza; I did not on that account refuse the offer of another small land expedition which the Captain of Monterey, Don Fernando de Rivera, made me. I did not see either of them while I remained in that port, but I did not, on that account, postpone the reconnaissance. I could not do all of this in person, because I was convalescing from a serious wound in my right foot, received April 3d by the accidental discharge of a double-barrel pistol, which Don Miguel Manrique had left loaded in the cabin. Notwithstanding this, I am satisfied that Don Jose Canizares executed with his usual ability everything I entrusted to his care. I therefore state to Your Excellency (in order that the merit of his work may not be ignored), that as long as he was with me, he acted not only with his usual honesty, but showed such great talent in his profession that in the midst of my troubles I found him one to entrust with the more delicate points of my duty.

On September 7th, I decided to leave the Port of San Francisco, as I considered the reconnaissance completed, and in doing this, having no wind, I was carried by the strong current against some rocks, injuring the rudder and breaking two female and one male bolts. This obliged me to enter a cove, where I repaired as well as possible the accident, and again tried to sail forth, a light breeze from the north (the only one I noticed in the forty-four days) aiding the sailing. On the 18th, because the rudder was injured, and those who had been on this coast before had warned me that at this time of year the weather was very severe, I determined to pass the Equinox at Monterey, and arrived there on the 19th. At this port I found the frigate Santiago. The schooner came October 7th, and I left for San Blas on the 13th, where I am sick of my foot, but always desirous to obey Your Excellency.

I pray the Lord to keep the life of Your Excellency many years.

San Blas, November 9, 1775.

Juan Manuel de Ayala.

To His Excellency, Bailio Frey Don Antonio Maria Bucareli.

Description of the Newly-discovered Port of San Francisco

Situated in Latitude 37 deg. 53' North, Longitude 17 deg. 10' West of San Blas

By Lieutenant Don Juan Manuel Ayala

Placed about two leagues west-southwest of Point Almejas[52], latitude 37 deg. 42', the following is to be seen: First that it[53] is large, with two red barrancas[54], and second, that to the north there are three white rocks at a stone's throw[55]. From that point the coast runs north-northeast, forming a small harbor in which there are five submerged rocks close to its shore; above it some white barrancas[56], ending in a sloping bill which top, to the north, is what is called Angel Point[57]. This has near it several rocks[58], the furtherest one a gunshot distant. From this point there is a harbor sufficient to accommodate any vessel[59], not only on account of its bottom, but because it is sheltered from all winds excepting those from the west-southwest. The middle of this harbor is to the northwest, where a copious creek empties[60]; the point runs northeast 1/4 east. This harbor, with the one inside of it, which I called San Jose[61], has been found very good, with the prevailing winds from the south to the northwest.

From Pt. Almejas to the northwest 1/4 west, four Farallones are seen, distant about four leagues. The one southernmost looks like a sugar-loaf. To the northwest 1/4 north, at a distance of about twelve leagues, a mountain[62] is seen which ends in a low point. According to the records of Sebastian Vizcaino and coast pilot of Cabrera Bueno, this is the one called Point Reyes. From this point the coast runs east-southeast in the shape of a half-moon, open to all winds of the third quarter and ending in two barrancas at the foot of which a low point comes out with two submerged rocks. This point was called Santiago[63], and, with one called Angel de la Guarda, forms the mouth of the channel of the entrance of the port[64]. Following this shore in a northeast direction, another harbor is to be found within three small rocks near the shore which, in case of necessity, may shelter any vessel. This harbor[65] ends on the north with a large, steep, and broken point, at the foot of which there is a white farallon to which and to the point I gave the name of San Carlos[66], and with Point San Jose, which is distant about half a league, forms the entrance of this famous port. It is to be borne in mind that any vessel that enters or leaves this port must take the precaution not to come near San Carlos Point, because in this place exist violent whirlpools which make useless the rudder, but must take the middle of the channel or sail near the shores of San Jose Point.

To the northeast 1/4 north of the middle of the entrance, an island[67] is seen, distant about one and a half leagues. This island divides the water of the flood in two channels in which a vessel may anchor, especially in the one that runs northeast 1/4 north near the island where water and wood are to be found in abundance. The vicinity of the island is such good anchorage that a vessel can anchor within a pistol-shot of the shore.

To the east-northeast of Point San Jose there is a sheltered harbor, landlocked, with bottom which diminishes gradually to the shore, where water and some wood are to be found[68]. In this harbor there is no current, and for that reason, and because it is so near the point I consider, it one of the best anchorages.

Once Points San Jose and San Carlos have been passed, and taking care to leave at one side the principal channel, an anchorage can be made at any place, because it is sheltered from all winds; the only thing to avoid is the current, which in the principal channel is five miles, and in its branches three miles.

This report was made to me by Pilot Don Jose Canizares, to whom I entrusted the examination of the port, because I was seriously sick.

Reconnaissance of the Port of San Francisco, with Map

Report of the Pilot Don Jose de Canizares to Commander Don Juan de Ayala

Translation of a Certified Copy of the Original in the Archives of the Indies at Seville.

Dear Captain:--During the four times that I made reconnaissance of this Port, and made its map, I found at the northeast and north-northeast what is shown on the map and I here describe. To the north-northeast of Angel Island, distant about a mile, there is a bay running in a direction north-northwest to south-southwest. The distance between the points forming said bay, is about two leagues, and the shore line is about two and a half leagues. To the northwest of the shore there are three small islands, forming between them and the shore a narrow passage of shallow water closed to the southwest. This bay is all surrounded with hills with few trees, which are mostly laurel and oak, but at a distance to the west-northwest, is visible a wood of what seems to be pines. In the middle of this bay is standing a high farallon with submerged rocks around it. On the northeast of it there is sufficient water for anchorage, as is shown on the map. There is no doubt of its being good anchorage for vessels, provided they have good cables and anchors, for they are subject to great stress because of the current, which at this point, cannot be less than four miles an hour[69].

North-northeast of said bay there is a mouth about two miles wide, where there are four small white rocks, the two north ones with the two south ones[70] form a channel of nine brazas depth. From this, one passes to another bay[71] more spacious, the diameter of which is about eight leagues, its shape a perfect isosceles triangle; its mouth is divided into two channels,--one, on the side of the southwest coast, turns to the northwest at about the distance of a mile and ends in two large harbors which are situated in the same shore at about four league's distance from the mouth that communicates with the first bay; from the northwest point of the furthest harbor to the north of it, distant about one and a half leagues, in turning a point to the west-northwest, a large body of water[72] is seen, which I did not examine because the channel which leads to it is extremely limited, its depth not having three codos[73] of water; from here to the east-northeast follows a low-lying island, just above the water level, ending in a division made by the hills[74]. The other channel, which is roomy and deep, runs directly in a northeast direction till it reaches the division of the hills through a canon that runs in the same direction.

All the bay, which is called the round bay (Bahia Redondo), though it is not shaped that way, is surrounded with steep hills, without trees, excepting two spots on the slopes fronting the two harbors to the southwest. The rest of it is arid, rugged, and of a melancholic aspect. Outside of the channels there is in this bay about five codos of water, and at low tide two and a half, and in some places it is dry. It is not difficult to enter this bay, but going out will be difficult on account of the wind from the southwest. After a careful examination of its shore, I did not find any fresh water or any signs of it. Standing in the canon, which is to the northeast, there is a channel[75] a mile and a half wide, deep and clear. East of its entrance there is a rancheria of about four hundred souls. I had dealings with them, but did not buy anything, though I presented them with beads, which you had given me for that purpose, and some old clothing of mine. Their acquaintance was useful to my men and to me, as they presented us with exquisite fishes (amongst them salmon), seeds, and pinole. I had opportunity of visiting them four times and found them always as friendly as the first time, noticing in them polite manners, and what is better, modesty and retirement in the women. They are not disposed to beg, but accept with good will what is given them, without being impertinent, as are many others I have seen during the conquest. This Indian village has some scows or canoes, made of tule, so well constructed and woven that they caused me great admiration. Four men get in them to go fishing, pushing with two-ended oars with such speed that I found they went faster than the launch. These were the only Indians with whom I had communication in this northern part.

Following said channel a distance to the west from its mouth, there is a harbor, so commodious, accessible, abundant in fresh water and wood, and sheltered from all winds, that I considered it one of the best inland ports that our Sovereign has for anchoring a fleet of vessels. I called it Puerto de la Asumpta, having examined it the day of the festivity of that saint[76].

To the southeast of this port[77] the canon continues, until it joins the channel of the Indian village. Following a distance of three leagues in an east-northeast direction, it enters another bay[78] with a depth of thirteen brazas, diminishing to four where some rivers[79] empty and take the saltiness of the water which there becomes sweet, the same as in a lake. The rivers come, one from the east-northeast (this is the largest, about two hundred and fifty yards wide), the other, which has many branches, comes from the northeast through tulares and swamps in very low land, the channels not over two brazas with sandy bars at their mouths, where I found in sounding the water not more than a half braza. This made me think they were not navigable, especially as on the second occasion I entered them, I touched bottom both in the channels and on the bars. The bay where these rivers empty, is another port larger than the Asumpta, where any vessel may enter, but it would be difficult to obtain wood, which is far from the shore. All the eastern coast is covered with trees; that to the west is arid, dry, full of grasshoppers, and impossible of settlement. This is all I have reconnoitered to the north of Angel Island. To the southeast of said island following the estero is as follows:

To the east of this island, at a distance of about two leagues, there is another, steep and barren, without any shelter, which divides the mouth of the channel in two[80], through which the sea enters to a distance of about twelve leagues. The width of this channel is in some parts, one, two, and three leagues; its depth is not over four brazas, its width ample, but a pistol shot outside of the channel; its depth is not over two brazas. The extreme end of this sound, eastward, forms with a point, a pocket, which, at low tide is nearly dry[81]. In every part there are seen poles driven in (the mud), with black feathers, bunches of tule, and little shells, which I believe are buoys for fishing, since they are in the water. I think it will be impossible to anchor for three leagues inside of this slough, because it is so exposed to the weather that strong cables and good anchorage are needed to hold against the strong current from the north.

The northeast part of this slough is surrounded by high hills, and has in its mouth a thick wood of oaks, and at the other end groves of thick redwood trees. At the southwest of the coast is a small slough, navigable only by launches[82], and on the coast two harbors[83] where vessels can anchor. On the more eastern one there is an Indian village, rough, like the ones in Monterey. This part seems to have better places for missions, though I did not examine it except from a distance.

All the above stated in this report is what I observed, saw, surveyed, and sounded, during the days, in which by your orders, I went to the reconnoitering of this Port of San Francisco in its interior; and as proof of it, I sign it in this new Port of San Francisco, at the shelter of Angel Island, on September 7th, 1775.

Jose de Canizares.

Index of Places

Acapulco Alcatraz Island Almejas, El Rincon de las Almejas, Punta del Angel Island Angel Point Ano Nuevo, Punta de Arroyo de San Francisco Arroyo Seco Baker's Beach Barranca Ballenas Bay Bonita, Point Brazas California, Baja California, Gulf of Canada Canada do los Osos Canada do San Andres Carmelo, Pt Carmelo, bay Carmelo, Rio del Carquines, strait Cerralbo, Bay of Codo Columbia river Concepcion, Laguna de la Concepcion, Point Dieguenos Drake's Bay El Buchon El Oso Flaco Ensenada Farallones de San Francisco Farallones, Gulf of Florida Fort Point Golden Gate Golden Gate, strait Guadalupe, lake Islais creek Jesus de los Temblores, Rio de La Paz, Bay of La Paz, port of Lime Point Lobos creek Loreto, presidio of Los Angeles, City of Los Angeles, river Napa slough Mare Island Mendocino, Cape Mescaltitan Mission bay Montara mountains Monterey, Bay of Monterey, Port of Monterey, presidio and mission of Muertos, Punta de los Navidad, Puerto de Oakland Flats Pajaro, Rio del Pedernales, Point Philippine Islands Pilar Point Pinos, Punta de Porciuncula, Indulgence Puerto Dulce Punta del Angel de la Guarda Presidio anchorage Rancheria Reyes, Punta de los Reyes, Rio de los Richardson's bay Red Rock Ross, Fort San Blas San Buenaventura, mission of San Carlos, Point San Clemente, island San Corpoforo, canon San Diego San Diego, bay San Diego, Founding of mission San Diego, presidio of San Elizario, Rio de San Fernando, valley San Francisco, Bahia o Puerto de San Francisco, Bay of San Francisco, Port of San Francisco, creek San Gabriel, valley San Joaquin river San Jose, Point San Juan Capistrano, mission of San Lorenzo, Rio de San Luis Obispo San Luis Rey, mission of San Miguel (island) San Nicolas, Isla de San Pablo bay San Pedro bay San Pedro Point San Pedro valley Santa Ana, Rio de Santa Barbara Channel Santa Barbara Isla de Santa Barbara presidio of Santa Catalina, island Santa Clara, river Santa Inez, river Santa Lucia, Sierra de Santa Maria, mission of Santa Rosa, river Santa Susana, Sierra de Sacramento, river Sal, Point Salines, river Santiago, Point Seal Rocks Suisun bay Tamalpais, mountain The Brothers (rocks) The Sisters (rocks) Tomales bay Velicata Yerba Buena cove

Index of Persons

Aguilar, Martin Aguirre, Juan B. Alvarado, Juan Bautista Amador, Pedro Anza, Juan Bautista de Arriaga, Julian de Ayala, Juan Manuel Bancroft, H. H. Bodega y Quadra, Juan de la Bolanos, Francisco Bucareli, Antonio Maria Bueno, Cabrera Cabrillo, Juan Rodrigues Canizares, Jose Carrillo, Jose Raimundo Cermenon, Sebastian Coronado, Francisco Vasquez Cortes, Hernando Corvan, Toribio Gomez de Costanso, Miguel Cota, Pablo de Crespi, Juan Davidson, George De Gali, Francisco De Soto, Hernando Drake, Francis Estorace, Jorge Fages, Pedro Ferrelo, Bartolome Figueroa, Rodriga de Fletcher, Francis Galvez, Jose de Gomez, Fray Francisco Griffin, George Butler Heceta, Bruno de Jiminez (Fortun) Laut, Agnes C. Legaspi, Miguel Lopez de Lummis, Chas. F. Maldonado, Gabriel Manrique, Miguel Mendoza, Antonio de Monterey, Conde de Morgana, Juan de Oliveros, Jose Ignacio Ortega, Jose Francisco Palou, Fray Francisco Perez, Juan Parron, Fray Fernando Pino, Miguel del Portola, Gaspar de Prat, Pedro Rivera y Moncada, Fernando de Salcedo, Felipe Serra, Fray Junipero Soberanes, Jose Maria Vancouver, Captain George Velasco, Luis de Vila, Vicente Vizcaino, Fray Juan Vizcaino, Sebastian Yorba, Jose Antonio Zuniga y Asevedo, Gaspar de

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 1: Sierra de Santa Lucia.]

[Footnote 2: Audiencia, the highest judicial body.]

[Footnote 3: The system of encomienda conferred feudal rights upon the discoverers. The Indians became vassals of Spanish lords.]

[Footnote 4: Vizcaino says he set out on the discovery of the coast of the South Sea with two ships, a lancha, and a barcoluengo. A lancha was a small vessel having no deck and but one mast, and propelled by sweeps. Vanegas calls the vessel a fragata. A barcoluengo, or barcolongo, was a long open boat.]

[Footnote 5: The second voyage of Vizcaino is of particular interest to Californians for the reason that the names given by him to the various geographical features of the coast still remain. The particulars of the first voyage are taken largely from the publications of the Southern California Historical Society of documents in the Sutro collection.]

[Footnote 6: Sutro Col. Pub. Southern California Hist. Socy.]