Part 3
Mr. _Camden_ defines the work _coronæ in modum_. The Latin _corona_ a crown, _corolla_ a _ghirland_, and the _British crown_ comes from its circular form, as _côr_ _chorus_. The armoric _Britons_ call _cryn_ _rotundus_, _kruin_ the _Irish_. _Coryn_ is the round tip of any thing, many such like words in all the _Celtic_ dialects. The _chorus_ of a building among _Roman_ christians, became appropriate to the more sacred part, or east end of churches, always turn’d of a circular form; from the time of _Constantine_ the Great. Thus all the churches in the holy land, thus the chapel in _Colchester_ castle, and in the _Tower_ of _London_, (both, in my opinion, built about his time) are round at the east end. The old _Britons_ or _Welsh_, we find, had a notion of its being a sacred place, tho’ they were not the builders of it; for I take them to be the remains of the _Celtic_ people that came from the continent, who chiefly inhabited _England_, at least the south part, when the _Romans_ invaded the island, they are more particularly the remains of the _Belgæ_. I suppose their name _Welsh_, a corruption of _Belgæ_, Οὐέλγαι in greek,_ ►Belgischen◄ _and_ ►Welschen◄ _in german. _Strabo_ IV. speaks of their way of making flannel, called λαιναί, for which our _Welsh_ are so famous. _Strabo_ gives the celtic word without the guttural aspirate, _chlæna_ in latin. The most ancient inhabitants, the remains of the old _Phœnician_ colony and primitive _Celts_ who built _Stonehenge_, were the _Picts_, _Scots_, _Highland_ and _Irish_, all the same people, tho’ perhaps differing somewhat in dialect, as in situation: no otherwise than a _Cumberland_-man and one of _Somersetshire_ now. The _Cornish_, I suppose, some remains too, of the old oriental race. But at this very day in _Wales_, they call every antiquated appearance beyond memory, _Irish_. Upon view of land, that from before any ones remembrance appears to have been plow’d, or very ancient ruins of buildings, and the like, they immediately pronounce, That it was in the times of the _Irish_. The very same is observable in the north, of the _Picts_ or _Pights_, as they pronounce it, gutturally, in the oriental fashion, which we cannot imitate. They call old foundations, _Pights_ houses, _&c._ Every thing is _Pictish_, whose origin they do not know. These people are conscious, that they are not the _Aborigines_, who by time and successive inundations, were forc’d northward and westward, into _Scotland_ and _Ireland_. And also in the days of the _Romans_, such of the then inhabitants as would not submit to their gentile yoke, took the same road. The _Irish_ therefore, or ancient _Scottish_, is the remnant of the _Phœnician_ language, mixt with old _Biscayan_ and _Gallic_, dialects of _Celts_; and some oriental, _Arabic_ in particular: as Mr. _Toland_ observes. And they are the descendants of the people who built _Stonehenge_, and the like Works. Whence spring the strange reports of these stones, coming from _Egypt_, from _Africa_, from _Spain_, from _Ireland_. As retaining some memory of the steps, by which the people who preceded their ancestors, travelled; nor they themselves, nor even the _Belgæ_ pretending to be the builders of this wonderful work. For the _Belgæ_ could not be ignorant of their own coming from the _Gallic_ continent.
[Illustration: _P. 8._ TAB. V.
_Stukeley delin._ _G. Vander Gucht Senl_
_The Front view of_ STONEHENGE.]
I have taken notice of another remarkable particular, as to the name of _Stonehenge_; which I apprehend to be of highest antiquity: that it was called the _Ambres_, or _Ambrose_, as the famous _main Ambre_ by _Pensans_ in _Cornwall_, another work of the Druids akin to this. And from hence the adjacent town of _Ambresbury_ had its name. But of this matter, I must beg the readers patience, till I come to the last chapter, and discourse of the antiquity of these works in general.
So much at present as to the name of our fabrick; it is time to draw toward the sacred pile, and fancy ourselves walking upon this delightful plain:
——————————_juvat arva videre Non rastris hominum, non ulli obnoxia curæ._ Virg.
nought can be sweeter than the air that moves o’re this hard and dry, chalky soil. Every step you take upon the smooth carpet, (literally) your nose is saluted with the most fragrant smell of _serpillum_, and _apium_, which with the short grass continually cropt by the flocks of sheep, composes the softest and most verdant turf, extremely easy to walk on, and which rises as with a spring, under ones feet. The following drawing TAB. III. is a prospect taken from the king’s barrow, west from _Vespasian_’s camp, in the way from _Ambresbury_ to _Stonehenge_, by the _Bristol_ road. Tho’ the graver has not done it justice: yet it will give one a general notion of the situation of the place. It is admirably chosen, being in the midst of those wide downs, call’d _Salisbury_ plain; between the river _Avon_ to the east, and a brook that runs into the _Willy_, on the west. These two streams half round encompass it, at 2 miles distance, forming as it were a circular area, of 4 or 5 miles diameter, compos’d of gentle acclivities and declivities, open and airy. Yet agreeably diversify’d with the appearance of barrows, every where upon the edges of the highest grounds. Which very barrows are curious and entertaining, when view’d at hand, as well for the nicety and handsome turn of their forms, as for their great variety, and all within sight of the temple. These downs feed many flocks of sheep, and no doubt furnish’d the idea of _Thessalian_ and _Arcadian_ plains, to the noble _Sydney_ residing at the neighbouring _Wilton_. The rivers are planted very thick with towns. Six miles south of _Stonehenge_ is _Salisbury_, a mile nearer is _Sorbiodunum_, or old _Sarum_, by the side of which passes the _Roman_ road _via Iceniana_ reaching from _Norfolk_, into _Dorsetshire_. As this road goes southward, a mile beyond _Woodyates_, where it enters _Dorsetshire_ and _Cranburn_ chase, it passes over a heath where are many old barrows, like these on _Salisbury_ plain. It happens there, to infringe upon one of the barrows, which luckily affords us a demonstration, of the road being made since those barrows; of which I took notice in my _itinerarium_ p. 180. and further to gratify the curious have here inserted a print of it TAB. IV. and may take the opportunity once for all to advertize them, of the disadvantage under which all drawings from these plains must appear. They are made for use and instruction, like mathematical figures, and cannot be expected much to please the eye; being form’d chiefly from bare lines, admitting no picture-like decoration.
I have observ’d another similar proof of these works being older than the _Roman_ times here, in that _Roman_ road that goes from _Marlborough_ to _Bath_. It is near _Abury_, and I have a print of it engrav’d, which will be exhibited, when I next publish an account of that great work. But in the former _plate_ IV. I call those Druid barrows, which are often found on these plains: a circular trench, sometime of 100 foot diameter, with only a small tump of earth in the middle, under which there is commonly an urn. Sometime two or three of these little tumps or diminutive _tumuli_ within one circle, which it is natural to suppose, were friends or relations. These circles are always excellently well mark’d out.
The particular spot of ground where _Stonehenge_ stands, is in the lordship of west or little _Ambresbury_: the possession of the reverend Mr. _Hayward_, who at present may be call’d the Archdruid of the island. ’Tis a delicate part of this large plain, with a gentle declivity from the south-west to the south and north-east. So that the soil, which is chalk, is perfectly dry and hard. Hence the infinite numbers of coaches and horses, that thro’ so many centuries have been visiting the place every day, have not obliterated the track of the banks and ditches. The water cannot possibly rest any where hereabouts. The founders consulted well for the stability of their work, and salubrity of the place. _Cæsar_ informs us in his commentaries, B. G. VI. 13. that among the Druids, “one has the supreme authority. When he is dead, whoever excels in dignity succeeds. But if there be more candidates, the Archdruid is chose by the votes of the Druids: and sometimes they fight for it. At a certain fix’d time of the year the _Gaulish_ Druids meet, in the territories of the _Carnutes_, which country is in the middle of _Gaul, in a consecrated place_. Hither all persons from all quarters come, who have any controversy, and stand to their determination. The discipline of the Druids arose in _Britain_, and is said from thence to have been brought into _Gaul_. And now, they who design to be more thoroughly initiated therein, go over to learn.” Here in few lines the great author acquaints us with a vast fund of ancient history, and upon which whole volumes have been wrote. I observe no more from it at present, than that we may very reasonably conclude, the elegant and the magnificent structure of _Stonehenge_ was as the metropolitical church of the chief Druid of _Britain_. This was the _locus consecratus_ where they met at some great festivals in the year, as well to perform the extraordinary sacrifices and religious rites, as to determine causes and civil matters. _Cæsar_ calls these appointments of the Druids in _Gaul_ consecrated places, where probably was nothing but a circle of rude stones. Had he seen those of our island, an _Abury_ or even a _Stonehenge_, he would scarce have given them the title of temples: he was not used to the old patriarchal way. But I reckon the true reading in that passage quoted from him, to be _loco consecrato_, not _luco_, which was put in by some bold transcriber, who had heard of the fondness of the Druids for groves. But how unfit is a grove for a great and public meeting upon civil affairs? And this for the excellency of its situation upon a vast plain, was well calculated for a publick meeting of those of the order, at an election of a new Archdruid. As _Cæsar_’s words give light to the work before us, so it confirms what the warlike author says, of the discipline being originally in _Britain_; which the critics upon the continent cannot bear, and vainly endeavour to spirit away _Cæsar_’s meaning. The very building of _Stonehenge_, to say nothing of other like works here, shows it was not in vain, that the youth of _Gaul_ came to learn of men, who could contrive and execute so mighty a work.
[Illustration: _P. 10._ TAB. VI.]
_Stonehenge_ stands not upon the very summit of a hill, but pretty near it, and for more than three quarters of the circuit you ascend to it very gently from lower ground. At half a mile distance, the appearance of it is stately and awful, really august. As you advance nearer, especially up the avenue, which is to the north-east of it, (which side is now most perfect) the greatness of its contour fills the eye in an astonishing manner. TAB. V. is the front prospect from the entrance of the avenue. The stone that leans o’er the high altar appears thro’ the grand or principal entrance: because we stand upon lower ground. If the reader pleases to cast his eye upon _Plate_ XII. there ’tis represented in orthography, (to speak technically) as here in prospect. Hence by this method of comparing the designs together, we may, without confusion, gather a true notion of the work. _Stonehenge_ is a good deal more in diameter, than the outside of St. _Paul_’s cupola. And from a comparison of these two buildings, I was able to judge of the vanity of the architect of St. _Peter_’s at _Rome_, who in order to degrade the _Pantheon_, (whilst he was imitating it) boasted, he would set the _Pantheon_ 200 foot high in the air, meaning the cupola there. But the architect of the _Pantheon_, _Valerius Ostiensis_ (had he been alive) would have told him, that the vastness of the diameter in these cupola’s is lost by the very height. Whatever we would have admired, ought to be preserved as the largest dimension. Therefore _Valerius_, with admirable judgment, has made the outward breadth of the _Pantheon_ one fifth part compleatly longer than its height, taken in front; but if we measure it sidewise, taking in the portico, the breadth to the height, is more than 6 to 4. By this means the wonder of the _Pantheon_, the curve or arch 150 _Roman_ feet in diameter, remains. So the curve of _Stonehenge_, which is above 100 _English_ feet, appears extraordinary large and well proportion’d, upon a height of 18 foot, which reaches to the top of the outer cornish; that of the inner cornishes is but 24 foot high, at a medium. For the cornishes of the inner part of _Stonehenge_, or that which _Webb_ calls the cell, are not all of equal height, of which in proper place. Thus both parts of the wonder is preserv’d, the greatness of the circuit of the whole work, the greatness and height of the parts that compose it; the height being one fourth of the diameter. The greatness too of the lights and shades in _Stonehenge_, as well as their variety arising from a circular form, gives it all possible advantage, and makes it deserve the appellation of,
_Deorum gloriosa domus_,
as _Theocritus_ and _Herodotus_ generally call temples. And its situation is correspondent to the antient notion. _Pausanias_ praises the _Tanagrei_ in _Beotia_, for having their temples in clean and distinct area’s, distant from profane buildings and traffic.
_Stonehenge_ is inclosed within a circular ditch. After one has pass’d this ditch, says the right reverend annotator to _Camden_, he ascends 35 yards before he comes at the work itself. This measure is the same, as that which _Webb_ calls 110 foot, the diameter of the work. For the area inclos’d by a ditch, wherein _Stonehenge_ is situate, is in diameter three times the diameter of _Stonehenge_. See the _Plate_ of the _area_. XXIII. Therefore the distance between the verge of the ditch within side, quite round, to the work of the Temple, is equal to the diameter of the Temple. The reader remembers what I promis’d, about the scale or measure whereby this work and all others of the Druids, is form’d; that ’tis the old _Hebrew_, _Phœnician_ or _Egyptian_ Cubit, which compar’d with the _English_ foot, amounts to 20 inches and ⅘. Therefore I have drawn the ensuing comparison and proportion, between our _English_ and _Hebrew_ Scale; which is to accompany us in the future description. TAB. VI. the scale of cubits and feet compar’d. That I might not be suspected to favour an hypothesis, I produce other peoples measures, where I can find them in print, provided they be done with tolerable judgment and accuracy; for both are necessary in our case, with proper allowance. ’Tis not to be suppos’d, that in this work, the minuteness and extreme curiosity of _Desgodetz_, with which he measur’d the remains of old _Rome_, is expected, or even possible. For tho’ the stones are not chizel’d and squar’d, to such preciseness, as _Roman_ works are; yet they are chizel’d, and are far from rude. Nevertheless every body has not skill, properly to measure them. For they are much impair’d by weather: much is knock’d off by wretched hands. Those stones that stand, are luxated various ways, by time and their own weight; by silly people digging about them, and by the unfortunate colony of rabbets lately translated thither. So that we may well say with _Claudian_,
_Seram ponderibus pronis tractura ruinam, Pars cadit assiduo flatu, pars imbre peresa Rumpitur, abripuit partem vitiosa vetustas._
I was forc’d to make many admeasurements and repeated, before I could obtain an exact ground-plot; and it requir’d much consideration to do it, and to find out the true scale by which it was compos’d, the Druid cubit, which they brought with them from the east. Therefore by the annexed scales, TAB. VI. which I have contriv’d to answer all lengths, the reader will most perfectly understand the subsequent description, and see the truth of my assertion: and may from thence be enabled to measure any other like works, in our islands, which I have not had the opportunity of viewing. It was the eastern way, in laying out a building, to use a staff of 6 cubits long. This was of a convenient, manageable length; and its divisions being half a dozen, suited well a reckoning by duodenaries. Thus in _Ezek._ xl. 3, 5. _Apoc._ xxi. 16. the angel that laid out the temple of _Solomon_, is described, as having a reed of 6 cubits (a measuring reed or cane) in his hand. This being the universal and first measure of antiquity, was in time spread all over the world. In particular, it became the _decempedum_ of the _Greeks_ and _Romans_; the common measuring standard. But ’tis remarkable, they alter’d the divisions, thinking it more artful and convenient to have them in less parts: and instead of 6 cubits, they made it consist of 10 feet. And by time and change, the whole measure became somewhat alter’d from the primitive. For the _Greek decempedum_ was swell’d somewhat too long, as the _Romans_ diminish’d theirs a little. _Ezekiel_’s reed is our 10 foot and 4 inches ⅔; 400 cubits is the _stadium_ of the ancients, or furlong, 700 feet.
When you enter the building, whether on foot or horseback and cast your eyes around, upon the yawning ruins, you are struck into an exstatic _reverie_, which none can describe, and they only can be sensible of, that feel it. Other buildings fall by piece meal, but here a single stone is a ruin, and lies like the haughty carcase of _Goliath_. Yet there is as much of it undemolished, as enables us sufficiently to recover its form, when it was in its most perfect state. There is enough of every part to preserve the idea of the whole. The next _Plate_, TAB. VII. the peep (as I call it) into the _sanctum sanctorum_, is drawn, at the very entrance, and as a view into the inside. When we advance further, the dark part of the ponderous imposts over our heads, the chasm of sky between the jambs of the cell, the odd construction of the whole, and the greatness of every part, surprizes. We may well cry out in the poet’s words
_Tantum Relligio potuit!_
if you look upon the perfect part, you fancy intire quarries mounted up into the air: if upon the rude havock below, you see as it were the bowels of a mountain turn’d inside outwards. It is pleasant likewise to consider the spot upon which ’tis situate, and to take a circular view of the country around it. For which purpose I have sketch’d the following prospects, taking in the country almost round the circumference of the horizon. This Use there will be in them further; if ever it happen, that this noble work should be destroy’d: the spot of it may be found, by these views.
TAB. VIII. north prospect from _Stonehenge_.
TAB. IX. south-west prospect from _Stonehenge_.
TAB. X. south-east prospect from _Stonehenge_.
[Illustration: _P. 12._ TAB. VII.
_Stukeley d._
_A peep into the sanctum sanctorum 6 June. 1724_]
The _vallum_ of the ditch which incloses the _area_, or court, is inwards, and makes a circular terras; walking upon which, we take the foregoing prospects. The lowest part of the _area_ is towards the entrance. The tops of all the circumjacent hills, or rather easy elevations, are cover’d o’re, as it were, with barrows, which cause an agreeable appearance; adorning the bare downs with their figures. And this ring of barrows reaches no further, than till you lose sight of the temple, or thereabouts. Stand at the grand entrance by the stone that lies upon the ground, and the view of the temple presents itself as in the Vth _Plate_, the front prospect of _Stonehenge_. Directly down the avenue, to the north-east, the apex of an hill terminates the horizon, between which and the bottom of a valley you see the _Cursus_, a work which has never yet been taken notice of. Being a space of ground included between two long banks going parallel east and west, at 350 foot distance, the length 10000 feet. This was design’d for the horse races and games, like the _Olympic_, the _Isthmian_, &c. of the _Greeks_. But we shall speak more particularly of this afterwards. In the valley on this side of it, the strait part of the avenue terminates in two branches; that on the left hand, leads to the _Cursus_; that on the right goes directly up the hill, between two famous groups of barrows, each consisting of seven in number. The farthest, or those northward, I call the oldest king’s barrows; the hithermost are vulgarly called the seven king’s graves.
If we walk a little to the left hand, TAB. VIII. is presented. See the northern long barrow: on this side of which, the eye takes in the whole length of the _Cursus_. Many barrows at the end and on both sides of it. That mark’d P. was open’d by my Lord _Pembroke_, those mark’d S. were open’d by myself. What was discover’d therein will be treated of hereafter. Further to the west, the highest ground of that spot whereon _Stonehenge_ stands, eclipses a distant view, and there are the nearest barrows planted with rabbets, which do much damage too at _Stonehenge_, and threaten no less than the ruin of the whole. Upon the _vallum_ of _Stonehenge_ is one of the stones there, which seems to be a small altar, for some kind of libations, and at the letter A. the mark of a cavity; of which more particularly, in the next page. The next or south-west prospect, TAB. IX. from _Stonehenge_, takes in the country from _Berwickbarn_, and my Lord _Pembroke_’s wood of _Groveley_, to _Salisbury_ steeple: a chain of barrows reaching a 6th part of the whole horizon. Many from the great quantity of these sepulchral _tumuli_ here, injudiciously conclude, that there have been great battels upon the plain, and that the slain were bury’d there. But they are really no other than family burying-places, set near this temple, for the same reason as we bury in church-yards and consecrated ground. _Salisbury_ steeple seen from hence, brings to my sorrowful remembrance, the great _Thomas_ Earl of _Pembroke_, whose noble ashes are there deposited. He was patron of my studies, particularly those relating to _Stonehenge_. Virtue, piety, magnanimity, learning, generosity, all sublime qualities recommended and added to his illustrious descent. Glorious it will be for me, if these pages live to testify to another age, the intimacy he was pleased to honour me with.
——————_quis talia fando Temperet a lachrymis_————————!
In this _Plate_, the reader may remark another of the cavities within the _vallum_, to which that corresponds on the opposite diameter before hinted at.
The south-east prospect finishes the circle, TAB. X. looking towards the valley southward, where the rain-water passes, from the whole work of _Stonehenge_, the whole tract of the _Cursus_ and the country beyond it, as far as north long barrow; and so is convey’d into the river _Avon_ at _Lake_. That road between king barrow and the seven barrows is the way to _Vespasian_’s camp and so to _Ambresbury_. The barrow under those seven kings of later form, is that nearest to _Stonehenge_.