CHAPTER IV

Cedar Chest Designs

Variety in design is so essential in cabinet making classes that a number of different styles of chests are presented in this chapter. Although a great many teachers follow the practice of giving the student a working drawing to follow, it is recommended that the designs herewith presented be used only as models—that from them each boy will combine, and add his own ideas to evolve what may be called “an original design.” Only by so doing will the student derive his greatest benefit from the work.

DESIGN NO. 2

In Fig. 18 is presented a perspective of the chest whose working drawing is given in Fig. 17. This chest is very similar to Design No. 1 described in the previous chapter. Its dimensions are practically the same, but in this case, the ends are fastened to the sides, and the end grain—appearing on the front—is covered by a curved piece of cedar 1¾” wide. The feet also differ as the detail shows.

[Illustration: Fig. 18]

[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 3_

Fig. 19]

[Illustration: Fig. 20]

DESIGN NO. 3

In this design we have a larger chest than the previous, but whose construction is the same. The end grain, appearing on the front, is covered with strips of copper. These may be put on as corners extending over the ends also, or merely as plates on the front, as Fig. 20 illustrates. The feet are detailed with Design No. 1.

[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 4_

Fig. 21]

[Illustration: Fig. 22]

DESIGN NO. 4

One of the most popular chest designs is illustrated in Fig. 21. In this, the edges are rounded, giving it an easy, graceful appearance. It requires careful, accurate work, as the joints can not be covered with strips or copper as with the previous styles.

[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 5_

Fig. 23]

[Illustration: Fig. 24]

DESIGN NO. 5

In Fig. 24 is shown a chest whose design permits it to be used as a window seat when covered with a cushion. Its appearance is very attractive as it has heavy, massive ends, giving it an air of solidity. The ends can be built up flush, as the drawing, Fig. 23, illustrates, or paneled. A ¾” strip is glued to the front edge of the top, making it appear to be as thick as the ends. The drawings illustrate copper plates on the front, but, if good work is accomplished, these may well be omitted.

[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 6_

Fig. 25]

[Illustration: Fig. 26]

DESIGN NO. 6

A paneled chest, Figs. 25 and 26, looks well when accurate work has been done. It, of course, means a great deal of mortising and routing, but, where power machines are available, does not consume a great amount of time. A chest built up as previously described with ¼” strips glued on will give the same effect. A study of both drawings will make the construction clear to the average student.

[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 7_

Fig. 27]

[Illustration: Fig. 28]

DESIGN NO. 7

Design No. 7, Figs. 27 and 28, is a rather odd design from the fact that it contains a drawer. It is built in the usual manner, but has two bottoms and an opening in the front for the drawer to slide into. It should be built of cedar throughout, but a slight saving can be effected if the lower bottom is of a cheaper wood or even a frame.

[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 8_

Fig. 29]

[Illustration: Fig. 30]

DESIGN NO. 8

This chest involves a little turning, but otherwise its construction is simple. A ¾” piece is set into the upright end pieces of stock 1½” × 1¾”, and another piece mortised in between them at the top. This latter piece has had a handle turned in its center, and two round tenons on its ends. These tenons are glued into holes bored in the uprights. Fig. 29 makes this construction clear. Aside from this, the construction is very similar to Design No. 5.

DESIGN NO. 9

At first glance, Fig. 32 presents a chest of difficult design, yet a careful understanding of its construction will show it to be quite simple. The box is built up with plain butt ends, and four corner legs are cut out according to the detail on Fig. 31. A right angle groove is cut into the center of each leg, and this fits over the corners of the chest. Glue and long screws from the inside of the box hold them in place, as detailed in Fig. 33. The little brackets shown in the perspective are doweled onto the legs after the latter have been fastened in place. At the top and bottom strips of small moulding may be cut by hand, or special mill orders will secure it from the dealers. The panels are made of similar mouldings but these may be omitted if desired. The top shows a raised panel. There are two methods used to secure this effect. In the most simple, the ¾” top is built up and another, thinner piece, glued over it. If the shop has a veneer press, this method is very easy. Of course there is excessive weight when this construction is used. The alternate method is to build up a frame with either mortised or mitered ends, and set the ¾” top into this frame. It can be secured with nails and glue from the under side.

[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 9_

_DETAIL OF LEG_ _ALTERNATE METHODS OF BUILDING UP TOP_

Fig. 31]

[Illustration: Fig. 32]

[Illustration: _DETAILS OF DESIGN NO. 9_

_SECTION OF MOULDING_

_METHOD OF FASTENING CORNERS TO BOX_

_BRACKET DOWELED TO CORNER_

Fig. 33]

[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 10_

_DETAIL OF LEG_

_DETAIL OF MOULDING_

Fig. 34]

DESIGN NO. 10

[Illustration: Fig. 35]

Figs. 34 and 35 illustrate a chest of the William and Mary period style. It is built up as the others have been with plain butt joints, and over the corners, as with Design No. 9, the legs are fastened. These are turned on a wood lathe, a quarter of the pieces being cut out. They can be cut after the turning is finished, or before. The latter plan is the more simple, as a frame must be constructed to hold the legs while being sawed if they have been previously turned. If the section is removed before turning it is a good plan to make the two circular saw cuts through the middle of the piece without cutting through to the ends. This will permit good centers to be obtained, and it may prevent excessive chipping of the edges. The wood can be removed when the ends are cut off on the lathe, or they may be carefully chiseled out. The panel effect is secured with small mouldings mitered at their corners. These may be omitted, if desired, without spoiling the appearance of the chest.

[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 11._

Fig. 36]

[Illustration: Fig. 37]

DESIGN NO. 11

This chest is of very simple design, and would not be too difficult a project for the average eighth-grade student. The ends are butted against the front and back, and fastened with fine finishing nails. Corner blocks are used on the inside, of course. The bottom is a mitered frame which is nailed to the box. The handles are worked out from small pieces of stock, 1½” thick. The top is built up with a mitered frame, securely glued and nailed. Fig. 36 is the working drawing, and Fig. 37 presents a photograph of the finished chest.

[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 12._

Fig. 38]

[Illustration: Fig. 39]

DESIGN NO. 12

Figs. 38 and 39 illustrate a chest very similar in construction to those already described, but one differing in mode of trimming. In this project Decalcomania transfers are successfully used, a description of which will be found in Chapter VI.

[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 13._

Fig. 40]

[Illustration: Fig. 41]

DESIGN NO. 13

This very attractive chest is identical in construction with Design No. 12, but in this case the chest is embellished with two well designed metal corners fastened with large-headed brass or copper nails. It will be noted that no corners are used at the back; however, it would not look out of place to fasten plates on the ends to give the appearance of corners.

[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 14_

Fig. 42]

[Illustration: Fig. 43]

DESIGN NO. 14

The only unique parts of the chest illustrated in Figs. 42 and 43 are the feet. After carefully forming them, they should be attached to the chest bottom before it is fastened to the box, as in this way the screws used to hold them can be evenly distributed.

[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 15_

Fig. 44]

[Illustration: Fig. 45]

DESIGN NO. 15

In Figs. 44 and 45 we have a number of departures from the chests previously described. The most noticeable of these is the edge around the top, which is built-up from strips one and three-fourths inches square. The edges of these strips are carefully rounded and the outside tapered in toward the bottom. Another point to note is that the feet are not set in or out from the body of the chest, but are so fastened that they give the appearance of flush sides and ends. These latter are mitered together at the corners.

[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 16_

Fig. 46]

[Illustration: Fig. 47]

DESIGN NO. 16

This chest is almost identical in design with No. 13, excepting that it has an overhanging top. When the box has been completed, a cove moulding is glued and bradded flush with the upper edges, and the top fitted over this moulding. As it is impossible to secure this moulding already cut from red cedar, it will be necessary to put in a special order for it at the mill or to work it out with a combination plane.

[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 17_

Fig. 48]

[Illustration: Fig. 49]

DESIGN NO. 17

There is nothing unusual about this chest, excepting possibly that it is longer than the average. The top is built-up as described for Design No. 15.

[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 18_

Fig. 50]

[Illustration: Fig. 51]

DESIGN NO. 18

This chest is almost identical with Design No. 4. It is built in the same manner, but here we have Decalcomania decorations applied, and the dimensions differ. When carefully constructed this is one of the most attractive designs in the series.

[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 19_

Fig. 52]

[Illustration: Fig. 53]

DESIGN NO. 19

Figs. 52 and 53 present another chest with paneled ends, and the sectional view in the working drawing shows the construction of them. The rails are mortised into the post, and on the front panel, the wide edge is relieved by attaching a small quarter-round. The end panel is set into the rails at the center, hence it is not necessary to use the moulding here.

[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 20._

Fig. 54]

[Illustration: Fig. 55]

DESIGN NO. 20

With a proper selection of transfer designs, this chest is one of the most attractive that it is possible to build. Its construction is simple and it has the wide curved pieces over the end grain that were first shown in Design No. 2.

[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 21._

Fig. 56]

[Illustration: Fig. 57]

DESIGN NO. 21

Although larger than No. 20, this chest is practically the same with the exception of its decoration. Decalcomanias are not used here, but hinge plates and a well designed copper decoration on the front, add the hit of relief so urgently desired.

[Illustration: _CEDAR CHEST DESIGN NO. 22._

Fig. 58]

[Illustration: Fig. 59]

DESIGN NO. 22

A paneled chest very similar to Design No. 6, is shown in Figs. 58 and 59. In this case there are but two panels on the front and top, and the ends are fitted with corner plates.

[Illustration: _UNDER-BED CHEST_

Fig. 60]

[Illustration: Fig. 61]

UNDER-BED CHEST

As its title indicates, the chest design shown in Figs. 60 and 61 is meant to roll under the bed. It is of very simple construction, and most useful in small bedrooms and flats.

[Illustration: Fig. 62]

[Illustration: _CHEST OF DRAWERS_

Fig. 63]

CHEST OF DRAWERS

A chest of cedar drawers, Fig. 62, has so many advantages that little need be said concerning it. Its additional room and separate compartments commend it highly. Its construction is exactly like the usual cabinet construction, all parts, wherever possible, being mortised and tenoned together. The detail of the drawer construction, Fig. 64, shows the fronts to extend past the sides, the edges being rounded. This gives the chest a most pleasing appearance and renders it dust-proof. If desired, the upper section, instead of having a large drawer, can have a false drawer front, and a bottom put in. The top can then be hinged and a high chest with two drawers will result. Or the top drawer may be divided into two smaller drawers with good effect.

[Illustration: _DETAIL OF DRAWERS_

Fig. 64]

[Illustration: Fig. 65. Suggestive Designs from Commercial Sources]

SUGGESTIONS FOR DESIGN

Figs. 65 and 66 illustrate a few additional designs whose working drawings are not given. They may offer suggestions worth while when the builder is designing his own. The feet are especially suggestive.

[Illustration: Fig. 66. Suggestive Designs from Commercial Sources]