Part 1

Transcriber’s Notes

Obvious typographical errors have been silently corrected. Variations in hyphenation and accents have been standardised but all other spelling and punctuation remains unchanged.

The structure of some tables has been modified to improve legibility within page width.

Footnotes are located at the end of the book.

Italics are represented thus _italic_, and bold thus =bold=.

Arabia: The Cradle of Islam

[Illustration: A TYPICAL ARAB OF YEMEN]

Arabia: The Cradle of Islam

Studies in the Geography, People and Politics of the Peninsula with an account of Islam and Mission-work.

REV. S. M. ZWEMER, F.R.G.S.

INTRODUCTION BY REV. JAMES S. DENNIS, D.D.

EDINBURGH AND LONDON Oliphant Anderson and Ferrier 1900

Printed by THE CAXTON PRESS 171-173 Macdougal St. New York, U.S.A.

DEDICATED

TO

_The “Student Volunteers” of America_

IN MEMORY OF

THE TWO AMERICAN VOLUNTEERS WHO LAID DOWN THEIR LIVES FOR ARABIA

PETER J. ZWEMER

AND

GEORGE E. STONE

And Jesus said unto him: This day is salvation come to this house, forasmuch as he also is a son of Abraham. For the Son of Man is come to seek and to save that which was lost.—LUKE xix. 9, 10.

Introductory Note

The author of this instructive volume is in the direct line of missionary pioneers to the Moslem world. He follows Raymond Lull, Henry Martyn, Ion Keith-Falconer, and Bishop French, and, with his friend and comrade the Rev. James Cantine, now stands in the shining line of succession at the close of a decade of patient and brave service at that lonely outpost on the shores of the Persian Gulf. Others have followed in their footsteps, until the Arabian Mission, the adopted child of the Reformed Church in America, is at present a compact and resolute group of men and women at the gates of Arabia, waiting on God’s will, and intent first of all upon fulfilling in the spirit of obedience to the Master the duty assigned them.

These ten years of quiet, unflinching service have been full of prayer, observation, study, and wistful survey of the great task, while at the same time every opportunity has been improved to gain a foothold, to plant a standard, to overcome a prejudice, to sow a seed, and to win a soul. The fruits of this intelligent and conscientious effort to grasp the situation and plan the campaign are given to us in this valuable study of “Arabia, the Cradle of Islam.” It is a missionary contribution to our knowledge of the world. The author is entirely familiar with the literature of his subject. English, German, French, and Dutch authorities are at his command. The less accessible Arabic authors are easily within his reach, and he brings from those mysterious gardens of spices into his clear, straightforward narrative, the local coloring and fragrance, as well as the indisputable witness of original medieval sources. The ethnological, geographical, archaeological, commercial, and political information of the descriptive chapters brings to our hands a valuable and readable summary of facts, in a form which is highly useful, and will be sure to quicken an intelligent interest in one of the great religious and international problems of our times.

His study of Islam is from the missionary standpoint, but this does not necessarily mean that it is unfair, or unhistorical, or lacking in scholarly acumen. Purely scientific and academic study of an ethnic religion is one method of approaching it. It can thus be classified, labelled, and put upon the shelf in the historical museum of the world’s religions, and the result has a value which none will dispute. This, however, is not the only, or indeed the most serviceable, way of examining, estimating and passing a final judgment upon a religious system. Such study must be comparative, it must have some standard of value; it must not discard acknowledged tests of excellence; it must make use of certain measurements of capacity and power; it must be pursued in the light of practical ethics, and be in harmony with the great fundamental laws of religious experience and spiritual progress which have controlled thus far the regenerative processes of human development.

The missionary in forming his final judgment inevitably compares the religion he studies with the religion he teaches. He need not do this in any unkind, or bitter, or abusive spirit. On the contrary, he may do it with a supreme desire to uncover delusion, and make clear the truth as it has been given to him by the Great Teacher. He may make a generous and sympathetic allowance for the influence of local environment, he may trace in an historic spirit the natural evolution of a religious system, he may give all due credit to every worthy element and every pleasing characteristic therein, he may regard its symbols with respect, and also with all charity and consideration the leaders and guides whom the people reverence; yet his own judgment may still be inflexible, his own allegiance unfaltering, and he may feel it to be his duty to put into plain, direct, and vigorous prose his irreversible verdict that Christianity being true, Islam is not, Buddhism is not, Hinduism is not.

There he stands; he is not afraid of the issue. His Master is the one supreme and infallible judge, who can pronounce an unerring verdict concerning the truth of any religion. He has ventured to bear witness to the truth which his Master has taught him. Let no one lightly question the value of the contribution he makes to the comparative study of religion.

The spirit in which our author has written of Islam is marked by fairness, sobriety, and discrimination, and yet there is no mistaking the verdict of one who speaks with an authority which is based upon exceptional opportunities of observation, close study of literary sources and moral results, and undoubted honesty of purpose.

It may not be out of place to note the hearty, outspoken satisfaction with which the author regards the extension of British authority over the long sweep of the Arabian coast line. His admiration and delight can only be fully understood by one who has been a resident in the East, and has felt the blight of Moslem rule, and its utter hopelessness as an instrument of progress.

Let this book have its hour of quiet opportunity, and it will broaden our vision, enlarge our knowledge, and deepen our interest in themes which will never lose their hold upon the attention of thoughtful men.

JAMES S. DENNIS.

Preface

There are indications that Arabia will not always remain in its long patriarchal sleep and that there is a future in store for the Arab. Politics, civilization and missions have all begun to touch the hem of the peninsula and it seems that soon there will be one more land—or at least portions of it—to add to “the white man’s burden.” History is making in the Persian Gulf, and Yemen will not forever remain, a tempting prize,—untouched. The spiritual burden of Arabia is the Mohammedan religion and it is in its cradle we can best see the fruits of Islam. We have sought to trace the spiritual as well as the physical geography of Arabia by showing how Islam grew out of the earlier Judaism, Sabeanism and Christianity.

The purpose of this book is especially to call attention to Arabia and the need of missionary work for the Arabs. There is no dearth of literature on Arabia, the Arabs and Islam, but most of the books on Arabia are antiquated or inaccessible to the ordinary reader; some of the best are out of print. The only modern work in English, which gives a general idea of the whole peninsula is Bayard Taylor’s somewhat juvenile “_Travels in Arabia_.” In German there is the scholarly compilation of Albrecht Zehm, “_Arabie und die Araber, seit hundert jahren_,” which is generally accurate, but is rather dull reading and has neither illustrations nor maps. From the missionary standpoint there are no books on Arabia save the biographies of Keith-Falconer, Bishop French and Kamil Abdul-Messiah.

This fact together with the friends of the author urged their united plea for a book on this “Neglected Peninsula,” its people, religion and missions. We have written from a missionary viewpoint, so that the book has certain features which are intended specially for those who are interested in the missionary enterprise. But that enterprise has now so large a place in modern thought that no student of secular history can afford to remain in ignorance of its movements.

Some of the chapters are necessarily based largely on the books by other travellers, but if any object to quotation marks, we would remind them that Emerson’s writings are said to contain three thousand three hundred and ninety three quotations from eight hundred and sixty-eight individuals! The material for the book was collected during nine years of residence in Arabia. It was for the most part put into its present form at Bahrein during the summer of 1899, in the midst of many outside duties and distractions.

I wish especially to acknowledge my indebtedness to W. A. Buchanan, Esq., of London, who gave the initiative for the preparation of this volume and to my friend Mr. D. L. Pierson who has generously undertaken the entire oversight of its publication.

The system for the spelling of Arabic names in the text follows in general that of the Royal Geographical Society. This system consists, in brief, in three rules: (1) words made familiar by long usage remain unchanged; (2) vowels are pronounced as in Italian and consonants as in English; (3) no redundant letters are written and all those written are pronounced.

We send these chapters on their errand, and hope that especially the later ones may reach the hearts of the Student Volunteers for foreign missions to whom they are dedicated; we pray also that the number of those who love the Arabs and labor for their enlightenment and redemption may increase.

S. M. ZWEMER.

_Bahrein, Arabia._

Table of Contents

PAGE I

THE NEGLECTED PENINSULA 17

Arabia the centre of Moslem world—Its boundaries—The coast—Physical characteristics—Climate—Water-supply—Geology—The Wadys—Mountains—Deserts.

II

THE GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS OF ARABIA 25

Natural divisions—Provinces—Political geography—Important flora and fauna—Population.

III

THE HOLY LAND OF ARABIA—MECCA 30

Its boundaries—Sacredness—European travellers—Jiddah—Its bombardment—The pilgrimage—Mecca—Its location—Water-supply—Governor—The Kaaba—The Black Stone—Zemzem—Duty of pilgrimage—The pilgrims—The day of sacrifice—The certificate—Character of Meccans—Temporary marriages—Superstitions—Mishkash—Schools of Mecca—Course of study.

IV

THE HOLY LAND OF ARABIA—MEDINA 45

Taif—Heathen idols—The road to Medina—Sanctity of Medina—The prophet’s mosque—Was Mohammed buried there?—The five tombs—Prayer for Fatima—Living on the pilgrims—Character of people—Yanbo—Importance of Mecca to Islam.

V

ADEN AND AN INLAND JOURNEY 53

The gateways to Arabia Felix—Aden—Its ancient history—Fortifications—Tanks—Divisions—Population—Journey inland—Wahat—The vegetation of Yemen—A Turkish custom-house—The storm in the wady—Taiz—The story of the books.

VI

YEMEN: THE SWITZERLAND OF ARABIA 62

The Jews of Yemen—From Taiz to Ibb and Yerim—Beauty of scenery—Climate—Ali’s footprint—Damar—Sana—Commerce and manufactures—Roda—From Sana to the coast—The terraces of Yemen—Suk-el Khamis—Menakha—Bajil—Hodeidah.

VII

THE UNEXPLORED REGIONS OF HADRAMAUT 72

Von Wrede’s travels—Halévy—Mr. and Mrs. Bent’s journeys—Makalla—Incense-trade—The castles and palaces—Shibam—Shehr and its ruler—Hadramaut and the Indian archipelago.

VIII

MUSCAT AND THE COASTLANDS OF OMAN 78

Boundaries—Population—Government—Muscat—Heat—The forts—The town—The gardens—Trade—The coast of Oman—The pirate-coast—The Batina—Sib, Barka, Sohar—From Muscat to Ras-el-Had—Sur—Carter’s exploration—The Mahrah and Gharah tribes—Frankincense.

IX

THE LAND OF THE CAMEL 88

“The mother of the camel”—Importance of the camel to Arabia—Tradition as to creation—Species—The dromedary—An illustration of design—Products of the camel—Characteristics—The interior of Oman—Chief authorities—Fertility—Caravan-routes—Peter Zwemer’s journey—Jebel Achdar.

X

THE PEARL ISLANDS OF THE GULF 97

Ancient history of Bahrein—Origin of name—Population—Menamah—The fresh-water springs—The pearl-fisheries—Superstitions about pearls—Value and export—Method of diving—Boats—Apparatus—Dangers to the divers—Mother-of-pearl—Other manufactures—Ruins at Ali—The climate—Political history—English protection.

XI

THE EASTERN THRESHOLD OF ARABIA 110

The province of Hassa—Katar—The Route inland—Ojeir—Journey to Hofhoof—The two curses of agriculture—The capital of Hassa—Plan of the town—Its manufactures—Curious coinage—The government of Hassa—Katif—Its unhealthfulness.

XII

THE RIVER-COUNTRY AND THE DATE-PALM 119

The cradle of the race—Boundaries of Mesopotamia—The Tigris-Euphrates—Meadow lands—The palms—Their beauty—Fruitfulness—Usefulness—Varieties of dates—Value—Other products—Population—Provinces and districts—The government.

XIII

THE CITIES AND VILLAGES OF TURKISH-ARABIA 128

Kuweit—Fao—Aboo Hassib—Busrah—The river navigation—A journey—Kurna—Ezra’s tomb—Amara—The tomb of the barber—The arch of Ctesiphon—Bagdad, past and present—Population—Trade—Kelleks.

XIV

A JOURNEY DOWN THE EUPHRATES 136

Journey to Hillah—-The route—Kerbela—Down the Euphrates—Diwaniyeh—The soldier-guard—Amphibious Arabs—Samawa—Ya Ali, Ya Hassan!—Nasariya—Ur—The end of our journey—The future of Mesopotamia.

XV

THE INTERIOR—KNOWN AND UNKNOWN 143

What it includes—Its four divisions—(1) “The empty quarter”—Ignorance of this part of Arabia—(2) Nejran—The Dauasir-valley and other wadys—Halévy’s travels—Aflaj—The Roman expedition to Nejran—(3) Nejd—Its proper limits—The zephyrs of Nejd—Soil—Vegetation—Animals—The ostrich—The horse—The chief authorities on this part of Arabia—The population of Nejd—The character of government—Intercourse with Mesopotamia—Chief cities—Hail—Riad—(4) Jebel Shammar—The Bedouin-tribes—Division—Character and customs—Robbery—Universal poverty.

XVI

“THE TIME OF IGNORANCE” 158

Why so-called—The golden age of literature—The influence of Christianity and Judaism—Tribal constitution of society—Commerce—Incense—Foreign invasions—Political commotion—The condition of women—Female infanticide—The veil—Rights of women—Marriage choice—Polygamy and Polyandry—Two kinds of marriage—Did Islam elevate woman?—Writing in “the days of ignorance”—Poetry—Mohammed’s opinion of poets—The religions—Sabeanism—The Pantheon at Mecca—Jinn—Totemism—Tattooing—Names of idols—Allah—Decay of idolatry—The Hanifs.

XVII

ISLAM IN ITS CRADLE—THE MOSLEM’S GOD 169

Different views—Carlyle—Hugh Broughton—Borrowed elements of Islam—The God of Islam—Palgrave’s portrait—Attributes of God—What God is not—Analysis of Islam—Borrowed elements of Islam.

XVIII

THE PROPHET AND HIS BOOK 179

The prophet of Islam—Birth of Mohammed—His environment—Factors that helped to make the man—Political, religious and family factor—Khadijah—Mohammed’s appearance, mind and character—His transgression of law—His sensuality—His murders—Expeditions—Mohammed, as he became through tradition—His glories, favor and power as an intercessor—How Moslems regard the Koran—Its character according to Dr. Post, Goethe and Nöldeke—Its names—Contents—Origin—Recension—Its beauties—Its defects—Its omissions.

XIX

THE WAHABI RULERS AND REFORMERS 191

The story of past century—The Wahabis—Character of teaching—The preacher and the sword—Taking of Mecca and Medina—Kerbela—Mohammed Ali—The Hejaz campaign—Ghalye—Turkish cruelty—English expedition—Peace—The Wahabi dynasty—Abdullah bin Rashid—Rise of Nejd kingdom—Character of rule—Hail conquers Riad.

XX

THE RULERS OF OMAN 202

Oman rulers—Seyid Said—Feysul bin Turki—The rebels take Muscat—Arab warfare—European diplomacy.

XXI

THE STORY OF THE TURKS IN ARABIA 206

Hejaz—The Sherifs of Mecca—Othman Pasha—Threats to assassinate him—Turkish troops in Asir—Losses—The conquest of Yemen—Turkish rule—Rebellions—The rebellion of 1892—Bagdad, Busrah and Hassa—Taxes—The Turks and Bedouins—The army—Character of rule.

XXII

BRITISH INFLUENCE IN ARABIA 218

British possessions—Aden—Socotra—Perim—Kuria Muria islands—Bahrein—Her naval supremacy—In the Gulf—German testimony—Survey of coasts—Telegraph and posts—Slave-trade—Commerce—British India S. N. Co.—Gulf trade—The rupee—Trade of Aden—Overland railway—Treaties with tribes—The Trucial League—England in Oman—Aden—Makalla—Method of “protection”—British consuls and agents.

XXIII

PRESENT POLITICS IN ARABIA 233

Hejaz—Future of Yemen—France in Oman—Russia in the Gulf—The Tigris-Euphrates Valley—The greater kingdom—God’s providence in history.

XXIV

THE ARABIC LANGUAGE 238

Wide extent—Its character—Renan’s opinion—The Semitic family—Their original home—The two theories—Table of the group—The influence of the Koran on the Arabic language—Koran Arabic not pure—Origin of alphabet—Cufic—Caligraphy as an art—Difficulty and beauty of Arabic speech—Its purity—Literature—Difficulty of pronunciation—Of its grammar—Keith Falconer’s testimony.

XXV

THE LITERATURE OF THE ARABS 251

Division of its literature—The seven poems—The Koran—Al Hariri—Its beauty and variety—Arabic poetry in general—Influence of Arabic and other languages—English influence on the Arabic—The Arabic Bible and a Christian literature.

XXVI

THE ARAB 258

Origin of tribes—Two theories—Yemenite and Maädite—The caravan routes—Bedouins and townsmen—Clark’s classification—Genealogies—Tribal names—Character of Arabs—Influence of neighbors—Their physique—Their aristocracy—Intolerance—Speech—Oaths—Robbery—Privilege of sanctuary—Generosity—Blood-revenge—Childhood—Fireside talk—Marriage among Bedouins—Position of women—Four witnesses—Doughty—Burckhardt—Lady Ann Blunt—Hurgronje—Woman despised—The kinds of dwelling—Tents and houses—Dress—The staple foods—Coffee, tobacco and locusts.

XXVII

ARABIAN ARTS AND SCIENCES 274

Music of the Arabs—War chants—Instruments of music—Songs—Kaseedahs in Yemen—Mecca chants—Science of _Athar_ and _Wasm_—Tracking camels—Tribal marks—Medical knowledge of the Arabs—Diseases—Remedies—A prescription—The Koran’s panacea—A Mecca M. D.—Amulets—Superstitions.

XXVIII

THE STAR-WORSHIPPERS OF MESOPOTAMIA 285

Where they live—Their peculiar religion—Their language—Literature—A prayer-meeting of the Star Worshippers—Strange ceremonies—The dogmas—Gnostic ideas—Priesthood—Baptisms—Babylonian origin.

XXIX

EARLY CHRISTIANITY IN ARABIA 300

Pentecost—Paul’s journey—The Arabs and the Romans—Christian tribes of the North—Mavia—Naaman’s edict—Christianity in Yemen—Character of Oriental Christianity—The Collyridians—Theophilus—Nejran converts—Martyrs—Abraha, king of Yemen—Marching to Mecca—The defeat—End of early Christianity—The record of the rocks.

XXX

THE DAWN OF MODERN ARABIAN MISSIONS 314

Raymond Lull—Henry Martyn—Why the Moslem world was neglected—Claudius Buchanan’s sermon—The Syrian missions—Doctor Van Dyck—His Bible translation—Henry Martyn, the pioneer—His Arabian assistant—Visit to Muscat—His Arabic version—Anthony N. Groves—Dr. John Wilson of Bombay—The Bible Society—Opening of doors—Major-General Haig’s journeys—Arabia open—Dr. and Mrs. Harpur and the C. M. S.—A call to prayer—Bagdad occupied—The present work—Missionary journeys to the Jews—William Lethaby at Kerak—The North Africa mission among the nomads—Samuel Van Tassel—The Christian Missionary Alliance—Mackay’s appeal from Uganda—The response.

XXXI

ION KEITH FALCONER AND THE ADEN MISSION 331

Keith Falconer’s character—Education—At Cambridge—Mission work—His “eccentricity”—Leipzig and Assiut—How he came to go to Arabia—His first visit—Plans for the interior—His second voyage to Aden—Dwelling—Illness—Death—The influence of his life—The mission at Sheikh Othman.

XXXII

BISHOP FRENCH THE VETERAN MISSIONARY TO MUSCAT 344

“The most distinguished of all C. M. S. missionaries”—Responds to Mackay’s appeal—His character—His letters from Muscat—His plans for the interior—Death—The grave.

XXXIII

THE AMERICAN ARABIAN MISSION 353

Its origin—The student band—The first plan—Laid before the church—Organization—The Missionary Hymn—James Cantine—Syria—Cairo—Aden—Kamil—Journeys of exploration to the Gulf and Sana—Busrah—Dr. C. E. Riggs—Death of Kamil—Opposition from government—Home administration—Bahrein occupied—Lines of work—Muscat—Journey through Yemen—The mission transferred to the Reformed Church—Troubles at Muscat and Busrah—Dr. Worrall—Journeys in Oman—Scripture-sales—First-fruits—Reinforcements.

XXXIV

IN MEMORIAM 367

Peter John Zwemer—George E. Stone.

XXXV

PROBLEMS OF THE ARABIAN FIELD 374

The general problem of missions to Moslems—The Arabian problem—What part of Arabia is accessible—Turkish Arabia—Its accessibility—Limitations—The accessibility of independent Arabia—Climate—Moslem fanaticism—English influence—Illiteracy—The Bedouins—The present missionary force—Its utter inadequacy—Methods of work—Medical missions—Schools—Work for women—Colportage—Preaching—Controversy—What should be its character—The attitude of the Moslem mind—Fate of converts—Thoughtless and thoughtful Moslems—The Bible as dynamite—The right men for the work.

XXXVI

THE OUTLOOK FOR MISSIONS TO MOSLEMS 391

Two views of work for Moslems—Christian fatalism—Results in Moslem lands—India—Persia—Constantinople—Sumatra and Java—Other signs of progress—The significance of persecution—Character of converts—Promise of God for victory over Islam—Christ or Mohammed—Missionary promises of the Old Testament—The Rock of Jesus’ Sonship—Special promises for Arabia—Hagar and Ishmael—The prayer of Abraham—The sign of the covenant with Ishmael—The third revelation of God’s love—The sons of Ishmael—Kedar and Nebaioth—The promises—Seba and Sheba—The spiritual boundaries of Arabia—Da Costa’s poem—Faith like Abraham—O that Ishmael might live before thee.

APPENDIX I—CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE 409

” II—TRIBES OF NORTH ARABIA 413

” III—KAAT AND COFFEE CULTURE IN ARABIA 414

” IV—AN ARABIAN BIBLIOGRAPHY 416

INDEX 427

List of Illustrations

PAGE

A TYPICAL ARAB OF YEMEN _Frontispiece_

VIEW OF MECCA AND THE SACRED MOSQUE THE REPUTED TOMB OF EVE AT JIDDAH _Facing_ 17

MOHAMMEDAN PILGRIMS AT MECCA THE SACRED WELL OF ZEMZEM AT MECCA ” 30

PILGRIMS AROUND THE KAABA IN THE SACRED MOSQUE AT MECCA ” 34

THE MECCA CERTIFICATE—A PASSPORT TO HEAVEN ” 40

CHRISTIAN COINS USED AS AN AMULET BY MECCAN WOMEN 43

A WOMAN OF MECCA A MECCAN WOMAN IN HER BRIDAL COSTUME _Facing_ 44

TRAVELLING IN SOUTHERN ARABIA THE KEITH FALCONER MEMORIAL CHURCH IN ADEN ” 56

AN ARABIAN COMPASS 71

A CASTLE IN HADRAMAUT 77

THE HARBOR AND CASTLE AT MUSCAT READY FOR A CAMEL RIDE IN THE DESERT _Facing_ 80

A BRANCH OF THE INCENSE TREE 87

TENOOF FROM THE EAST 95

THE VILLAGE OF MENAMAH, BAHREIN ISLANDS A BAHREIN HARBOR BOAT _facing_ 100

A DATE ORCHARD NEAR BUSRAH DATES GROWING ON A DATE-PALM ” 122

THE TOMB OF EZRA ON THE TIGRIS RIVER RUINS OF THE ARCH OF CTESIPHON NEAR BAGDAD ” 132

A PUBLIC KHAN IN TURKISH-ARABIA ARAB PILGRIMS ON BOARD A RIVER STEAMER ” 140

FOUR FLAGS THAT RULE ARABIA 217

CUFIC CHARACTERS 243

MODERN COPYBOOK ARABIC ORDINARY UNVOWELLED ARABIC WRITING 244

MOGREBI ARABIC OF NORTH ARABIA 245

PERSIAN STYLE OF WRITING 246

TITLE PAGE OF AN ARABIC CHRISTIAN PAPER 257

CHURNING BUTTER IN A BEDOUIN CAMP ” 266

TRIBAL MARKS OF THE ARABS 279

MANAITIC CURSIVE SCRIPT 287

PASSAGE FROM THE SACRED BOOK OF THE MANDÆANS 299

FACSIMILE COPY OF THE ARABIAN MISSIONARY HYMN 358

THE OLD MISSION HOUSE AT BUSRAH THE KITCHEN OF THE OLD MISSION HOUSE, BUSRAH _Facing_ 360

FOUR MISSIONARY MARTYRS OF ARABIA ” 368

THE BIBLE SHOP AT BUSRAH INTERIOR OF A NATIVE SHOP ” 384

THE RESCUED SLAVE BOYS AT MUSCAT THE ARABIAN MISSION HOUSE AT MUSCAT ” 400

* * * * *

Maps and Diagrams

PTOLEMY’S ANCIENT MAP OF ARABIA _Facing_ 25

ALI BEY’S PLAN OF THE PROPHET’S MOSQUE AT MECCA ” 36

PLAN OF THE INTERIOR OF THE HUJRAH AT MEDINA 49

MAP OF THE ISLANDS OF BAHREIN 98

NEIBUHR’S MAP OF THE PERSIAN GULF _Facing_ 110

PALGRAVE’S PLAN OF HOFHOOF 113

DIAGRAMS OF MISSIONARY WORK FOR ARABIA 380, 381

MODERN MAP OF ARABIA _End of Book._

[Illustration: VIEW OF MECCA AND THE SACRED MOSQUE]

[Illustration: THE REPUTED TOMB OF EVE AT JIDDAH]

I

THE NEGLECTED PENINSULA

“Intersected by sandy deserts and vast ranges of mountains it presents on one side nothing but desolation in its most frightful form, while the other is adorned with all the beauties of the most fertile regions. Such is its position that it enjoys at once all the advantages of hot and of temperate climates. The peculiar productions of regions the most distant from one another are produced here in equal perfection. What Greek and Latin authors mention concerning Arabia proves by its obscurity their ignorance of almost everything respecting the Arabs. Prejudices relative to the inconveniences and dangers of travelling in Arabia have hitherto kept the moderns in equal ignorance.”—_M. Niebuhr_ (1792).

What Jerusalem and Palestine are to Christendom this, and vastly more, Mecca and Arabia are to the Mohammedan world. Not only is this land the cradle of their religion and the birthplace of their prophet, the shrine toward which, for centuries, prayers and pilgrimage have gravitated; but Arabia is also, according to universal Moslem tradition, the original home of Adam after the fall and the home of all the older patriarchs. The story runs that when the primal pair fell from their estate of bliss in the heavenly paradise, Adam landed on a mountain in Ceylon and Eve fell at Jiddah, on the western coast of Arabia. After a hundred years of wandering they met near Mecca, and here Allah constructed for them a tabernacle, on the site of the present Kaaba. He put in its foundation the famous stone once whiter than snow, but since turned black by the sins of pilgrims! In proof of these statements travellers are shown the Black stone at Mecca and the tomb of Eve near Jiddah. Another accepted tradition says that Mecca stands on a spot exactly beneath God’s throne in heaven.

Without reference to these wild traditions, which are soberly set down as facts by Moslem historians, Arabia is a land of perpetual interest to the geographer, and the historian.

Since Niebuhr’s day many intrepid travellers have surveyed the coasts and penetrated into the interior, but his charge that we are ignorant of the real character of the vast peninsula is still true as far as it relates to the southern and southeastern districts. No traveller has yet crossed the northern boundary of Hadramaut and explored the Dahna desert, also called the Roba-el-Khali, or “empty abode.” The vast territory between the peninsula of Katar and the mountains of Oman is also practically a blank on the best maps. Indeed the only noteworthy map of that portion of the peninsula is that of Ptolemy reproduced by Sprenger in his “Alte Geographie Arabiens.”