Part 9
One small head or as much cabbage as will fill a dish one third full, 1½ cups of cooked rice, ½ tablespoon of salt, 2 tablespoons of flour, ½ cup of butter, 1½ pints of milk. Cut cabbage in 1 inch pieces, removing all hard stalks. Put on to boil, add salt, cook until done but not boiled up. Have ready the rice which has been boiled in well salted water. Make a cream sauce of the butter, flour and hot milk. Drain the cabbage and rice, grease a pan or baking dish, put in a layer of cabbage and rice, then a layer of sauce, and so on until the dish is filled, having the last layer of sauce.
BOSTON BAKED BEANS.
_Contributed by Mrs. Charles P. Searle, Boston, Mass._
Soak 1 qt. of beans over night, pour off the water and cook in fresh water until they crack open. Then put into a deep earthen dish and cover with the water. Add one third of a cup of molasses, put into centre of the dish a ½ lb. of parboiled pork, which should be scored across the rind. Bake very slowly 4 hours, keep nearly covered with water until two thirds done, then let them bake brown.
CORN PUDDING.
_Contributed by Mrs. Charles P. Searle, Boston, Mass._
One dozen ears of corn grated, ½ pt. of milk, a little sugar, a little salt. Bake 1 hour.
CORN PUDDING.
_Contributed by Mrs. Edwin T. Clinton, Philadelphia, Pa._
Take 10 ears of corn grated, add salt and a little cream, 4 eggs beaten light, ¼ lb. butter and a little wheat flour. Bake 2 hours.
ESCALLOPED ONIONS.
NEW ENGLAND. 1750.
_Contributed by Mrs. Mary C. B. Alexander, Philadelphia, Pa._
Slice onions as for frying, cook them in water a few minutes, turn off water and put a layer of onions in baking pan, add a layer of bread crumbs, season each layer with salt, pepper and butter and cream or milk. Put them in the oven and let them brown. These are very good; try them if you have any doubt.
SWEET POTATO PONE.
MISS SARAH RUTLEDGE, CHARLESTON, S. C.
One qt. of grated potato, ¾ lb. sugar, 10 oz. of butter, ½ pt. of milk, 3 tablespoonsful of powdered ginger, the grated peel of an orange. Rub the ingredients well together, and bake in a shallow plate in a slow oven.
SWEET POTATO PONE, No. 2.
MISS SARAH RUTLEDGE, CHARLESTON, S. C.
Peel and grate 2 moderate sized sweet potatoes. Pour over them nearly a pint of cold water, add 4 large spoons of brown sugar, 1 large spoon of butter. Season with ginger to the taste. Bake in a moderate oven about 3 hours. The potatoes must be grated raw in both these receipts.
MOCK OYSTERS OF CORN.
One dozen ears of green corn, grate off the grain, mix with the grated corn 2 large tablespoons of flour, the yolks of 4 eggs. Let all be well beaten and mixed. Season with salt and pepper. Have ready a pan with an equal portion of lard and butter, put on the fire and let boil, then drop in a spoonful of batter, as near the size of oysters as possible. They should be nearly an inch thick and fried brown.
IRISH POTATO PUDDING.
_Contributed by Mrs. Robert H. Maury, Richmond, Va._
Six oz. butter, 6 oz. sugar, 4 eggs, 1 lb. mashed potatoes, season with a little mace, and place in pudding dish greased. Eaten with a cold sauce of creamed butter and sugar, seasoned with nutmeg. Eaten hot. This pudding is enough for eight people.
CORN CAKE.
_Contributed by Mrs. Malcolm S. Councill, Bryn Mawr, Pa._
One pt. grated corn, ½ cup of flour, ¼ cup of milk, 2 eggs, 1 dessertspoon melted butter. Beat the eggs separately, add the yolks to the corn, and then milk, then flour and salt. Beat well, then stir in carefully the well beaten whites. Cook on hot griddle.
A BREAKFAST DISH AT THE FAMOUS OLD PLANTATION, “CHACHAU,” NEAR CHARLESTON, S. C.
_Contributed by Mrs. Charles Stevens, Charleston, S. C._
Into a quart of soft boiled rice, _not_ steamed, mix a can of tomatoes. Cut up through the whole slices of salt pork. Turn all out in a frying pan until the pork is clear and the rice and tomatoes rather crisp. One or 2 red finger peppers add to the flavor and appearance of the dish.
SALADS.
IRISH POTATO SALAD.
_Contributed by Mrs. Norman V. Randolph, Richmond, Va._
Boil 8 medium sized potatoes thoroughly done and mash well. Cream them with 2 tablespoons of butter and yolk of 1 raw egg. Take 4 small cucumber pickles and chop very fine with 1 small raw onion. Stir this in the tomatoes with a teaspoon of salt and a little pepper. Pour in a ½ teacup pickle vinegar. Mix all well and put into a salad dish lined with celery stalks, and slice 2 hard boiled eggs and sprinkle with salt and pepper over the top. To be served very cold.
POTATO SALAD.
_Contributed by Mrs. John Poe, Baltimore, Md._
One half small onion chopped very fine, ½ doz. sprigs of parsley chopped fine, 4 tablespoonsful olive oil, 1 teaspoonful of salt, ¾ cup of sour cream or 2 of sweet, very little red pepper, 4 tablespoonsful vinegar. Rub onion, parsley and oil, then add other ingredients. Boil potatoes, skinned, in salt, and chop for salad. This dressing is good for any moderate quantity of potatoes.
POTATO SALAD.
MRS. GEORGE W. ANDERSON, SAVANNAH, GA.
_From “Favorite Recipes of Savannah Homes,” Through the Courtesy of a Savannah Lady._
Boil white potatoes and let them get cold. Peel, salt and pepper them. Wet ½ teaspoonful mustard with 2 tablespoons vinegar and heaping tablespoon butter, and yolks of 3 eggs, whipped up, just before they are put in; add this seasoning to potatoes (which have been sliced thin), just before dinner is served.
CALVES HEAD SALAD.
_Contributed by Mrs. John Poe, Baltimore, Md._
Boil the head until the meat falls from the bone, remove the brains entirely. Cut up the tongue, the meat and the soft gristle, taking care to remove the little bones; season well with pepper and salt, chopped parsley and celery seed or fresh celery. Put in the mould with the stock made from boiling down the water used to boil the head in. Set it away and it will congeal, and serve with or without mayonnaise. Let as little fat as possible be used. Garnish your dish with lettuce or any attractive green salad.
POTATO SALAD.
MRS. GEORGE W. ANDERSON, SAVANNAH, GA.
_From “Favorite Recipes from Savannah Homes,” Courtesy of a Savannah Lady._
Pare and cut about a quart of Irish potatoes; boil in salted water and cool; add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley and 1 of onion juice; moisten with either French or mayonnaise dressing and put away in a cool place for several hours before serving time. Serve on crisp lettuce leaves.
CRAB SALAD SERVED IN TOMATOES.
_Contributed by Miss Lucretia Lennig, Philadelphia, Pa._
One dozen boiled and picked crabs, 12 large tomatoes, ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper, 1 cup mayonnaise, 1 head lettuce, 2 hard boiled eggs. Mix crab with mayonnaise and seasonings. Cut out the center of tomatoes and fill with crab, and put a slice of egg on each. Serve on lettuce leaves.
ASPARAGUS SALAD.
Drain 1 can of asparagus tips, throw into cold water, drain again immediately and wipe dry. Put into a salad bowl and pour over it French dressing.
TURKEY SALAD.
_Contributed by Mrs. Norman V. Randolph, Richmond, Va._
A turkey weighing 8 or 10 lbs. will make 1 gallon salad. Clear meat of fat and sinew, and cut into pieces ½ inch square. Same quantity of celery cut, salt to taste. Dressing for Salad--Yolks of 2 hard boiled eggs, 2 tablespoons dry mustard, 9 tablespoons olive oil, 6 tablespoons vinegar, 1 teaspoon salt; mix egg, mustard and salt together with beaten yolk of 1 raw egg. Add oil a few drops at a time, and lastly the white of 1 egg beaten to a froth.
GRAPE FRUIT SALAD.
Peel the grape fruit and separate into sections, split the membrane so that the pulp of the fruit can be extracted, separate into small bits and put into nest of crisp lettuce. Serve with either mayonnaise or French dressing.
ICE CREAM.
ICE CREAM.
“AUNT PARSONS’.”
_Contributed by Miss Pauline Johnson, Strafford, Pa._
Scald 1 qt. of good rich cream, beat 3 eggs, and stir in while it is hot, sweeten to your taste with loaf sugar, stir in the peel of 2 or 3 lemons grated, while hot, also. Strain the whole through a sieve, and when cold add enough lemon juice to make it a pleasant acid, generally 2 or 3 lemons. Put in a freezer made water-tight, fill with a layer of powdered ice and salt till nearly full. Cover the whole to exclude the air. It will freeze in 4 or 5 hours. If the cream is good, it will not flake if it is not stirred once in the freezer.
STILL-FROZEN ICE CREAM.
MRS. CADWALADER JONES, BAR HARBOR (1885).
_Contributed by Miss Eliza Sinclair Lyon, Bryn Mawr, Pa._
One qt. strawberries (or any fruit), 1 pt. sugar, mash well together. Put through a strainer and add 1 qt. thick cream, mixing it well with a wooden spoon. Put in a mould and wrap the mould in a towel and bury in ice and salt for 5 hours.
FROZEN COFFEE.
_Contributed by Mrs. S. Naudain Duer, Philadelphia, Pa._
Three pts. cream, 1 qt. fresh milk, 1 pt. sugar, 1 teacup strong drip coffee, 1 tablespoon arrowroot dissolved in a ½ cup of cold water. Put on in saucepan the milk and 1 pt. cream. When hot add sugar, coffee and arrowroot. Let boil until thickened to consistency of custard, stirring all the time. Set aside to cool. When cold, stir in remaining quart of cream. Then freeze.
FROZEN PUDDING.
_Contributed by Mrs. Clara Pollard Lee, Montgomery, Ala._
One pt. milk, 2 cups sugar, 1 scant cup flour, 2 eggs, 2 tablespoons gelatine, 1 qt. of cream, 1 lb. of candied fruits, 4 tablespoons of wine. Let milk come to a boil. Beat flour and eggs with 1 cup of sugar and stir into the boiling milk. Cook 20 minutes. Add gelatine which has been thoroughly soaked in a little water. Set away to cool, then add the other sugar, cream and wine. Freeze 10 minutes, then add fruit and finish freezing. Set away for an hour or two, that the fruit may ripen.
CHERRY MOUSSE.
MRS. S. B. DANA, WEST ROXBURY, MASS. (1885).
_Contributed by Miss Eliza Sinclair Lyon, Bryn Mawr, Pa._
To 1 pt. of thick cream add 3 tablespoonsful sugar, 1 cup of cherry juice and 2 drops extract bitter almond. Chill on the ice, then whip stiff, put in a mould tightly covered and bury in ice and salt for 3 hours.
MOUSSE.
MISS FLORA HARTLEY, THE GRAMMERCY, NEW YORK.
_Contributed by Mrs. M. Kim Miller, New York._
Whip 1 pt. cream and add the yolks of 4 eggs beaten, ½ cup sugar, 1 cup coffee or any flavor. Pour into moulds, and pack in layers of salt and ice; stand 4 hours.
ENGLISH FROZEN PUDDING.
BESSIE FRASER, LAKE HURON.
_Contributed by Mrs. Wm. A. Glasgow, Jr., Philadelphia, Pa._
Pour a rich boiled custard over cold boiled rice, and beat together with plenty of orange juice. Freeze in a brick, and when turned out place on top quartered oranges.
TO MAKE GERMAN OR VANILLA CREAM.
_Contributed by Mr. and Mrs. John Cadwalader, Philadelphia, Pa._
Take 1 qt. of very thick sweet fresh cream, well beaten in a pan, as you would eggs, till it is quite thick, to which add vanilla and loaf sugar to your taste; the vanilla bean must be well pulverized and minced with the sugar before you put it into the cream. Then freeze.
TO MAKE THREE QUARTS OF CREAM.
MRS. RODNEY OF GERMANTOWN.
_Contributed by Mrs. Samuel V. Merrick, Germantown, Philadelphia, Pa. Her Great-Granddaughter._
Take 3 quarts of fresh sweet cream, rub the rind of a fresh lemon with loaf sugar; then flavor your cream with this and sweeten to your taste with powdered sugar. Put into your freezer and cover close, then set in a deep bucket with ice and salt around it. The ice should be broken in small pieces, then put layer of ice and one of salt. Then churn and stir until frozen. One quart will serve ten glasses; 3 quarts will do for a company of thirty.
ICES, PUNCHES, SHERBETS, BEVERAGES, AND WINES.
ICES, PUNCHES, ETC.
THE ART OF SERVING WINE.
_Contributed by Mr. Paul Garrett, Norfolk, Va._
From time immemorial, wine has stood for the pledge of friendship and good fellowship.
To-day, more than ever, the serving of light wines has an established place in social usage.
A glass of wine and a wafer makes the ideal repast for the afternoon gathering of ladies. The informal call, the evening party, the birthday table, the picnic or the lawn party, the wedding and the christening, not to mention the formal dinner--on every occasion sacred to the home where friend greets friend in social intercourse, pure light wines have their recognized place.
In this country this is true to-day more so than ever before, because the American people are just waking up to the fact that here at home are raised the best grapes in the world--grapes that by improved processes are being converted into wines of unquestioned purity and wholesomeness.
“Virginia Dare,” “Pocahontas” and “Minnehaha” are the lightest of wines--clear, pure and with a clean, fresh, natural flavor delightful to the taste. Besides adding zest to the meal, they form an important supply of food for the nerves--food just as important as that which goes to the building up of bone and muscle.
“How to Serve Wine” is a question of greater or less complexity, as the occasion is formal or informal. On an informal occasion, perhaps, only one wine will be served, the taste of the guests, of course, deciding the variety. If they be accustomed to the dry imported wines of Northern Europe, such as Rhine Wine, Moselle, or Sauterne, a bottle of Minnehaha should be served.
If, on the other hand, the guests have no acquired tastes, nothing can excel Virginia Dare or Pocahontas. Being so delicate and fruity in flavor, these wines invariably find enthusiastic devotees in the ladies.
In serving wines for a large formal dinner, there is much variation of ideas. It is a matter of taste rather than of rule. There is, however, a logical sequence that is usually followed:
White wines with oysters (Minnehaha, Sauterne or Moselle).
Yellow wines with soup (Virginia Dare, Sherry or Tokay).
Red wines with roasts and game (Pocahontas, Port, F. F. V. Claret, Burgundy or Hiawatha--a red sparkling wine).
Sweet wines with dessert (Pocahontas, Virginia Dare, Port, Madeira or Southern Sunshine).
After dinner, before coffee, old Ports, Madeiras, Sherries or Champagne.
Champagne any time after soup, although strictly speaking it is an after-dinner wine.
Champagne is the ideal table wine.
When Sherries are used, an old dry quality with nutty flavor is served with oysters, while a richer one should be used before coffee.
If both Claret and Burgundy are desired, serve the Claret with the entrée, Burgundy with the roast.
WINE CAUTIONS.
_Contributed by Mr. Paul Garrett, Norfolk, Va._
Dry wines should be kept in a cool, dry cellar, the bottles laid on their sides, so that the moisture will render the cork thoroughly airtight. This is not necessary, however, when the bottles are sealed with other devices, as, for instance, the Garrett Cap and Crown.
All old still wines--Claret, Sauterne, Sherry, Port, Madeira--should be decanted when they have been in bottles a sufficient time to precipitate.
In England, gentlemen decant their own wines; it is very simple, but must be done carefully.
Stand the bottles upright 24 hours before decanting, first loosening the cork. When ready, draw the cork, hold the bottle to the light and pour slowly into the decanter, until the sediment begins to move. The decanted wine will then be perfectly clear and bright.
Burgundies by custom are often served from the original bottles, but it is better to decant all still wines just before using.
It must be remembered, however, that only the fortified wines, or those to which alcohol has been added, will keep for any time after being exposed to the air. The fortified wines are Sherry, Tokay, Port and Madeira. Many other foreign wines are fortified to a sufficient extent to stand exportation, rendering them strongly alcoholic. For this reason it is better for Americans to drink the wines of their own country. There being no need to export, there is no temptation to fortify and render them intoxicating. Scuppernong products are the lightest and most delicate in the world, containing a minimum of alcohol and are rich in the health-giving properties of the grape.
Clarets and Burgundies should be served at a temperature of about 65 to 70 degrees, generally obtained by keeping the bottles in the dining-room several hours before serving.
White wines (Virginia Dare, Minnehaha, Rhine, Sauterne, Moselle, Riesling) should be cooled, but not thoroughly chilled, to about 40 to 50 degrees.
Sherry and Port should not be too cold, for if they are chilled they will cloud.
Madeiras are best at about 65 degrees. “Extra Dry” Champagne cannot be too cold--the nearer to frappe the better.
“Brut” Champagne should be chilled, but too low a temperature makes it acid and rough. Freezing kills it entirely.
Remember, that if a variety of wines is to be used, a very little of each is required.
ETIQUETTE OF THE WINE GLASS.
_Contributed by Mr. Paul Garrett, Norfolk, Va._
Each place at table should be supplied with all the glasses to be used during the dinner.
There are, in general, four varieties:
The Claret Glass is used for all still wines. With white wines a delicately tinted ruby glass is sometimes used with pretty effect. For red wines the glass must always be colorless.
The Sherry Glass is used exclusively for Sherry. There are numberless designs, both in plain glass and cut glass, but the general shape is always the same. Round base, slender stem, plain or ornamental--bowl, lily shaped--the whole effect being very graceful and delicate.
The Wine Glass is very much like the Claret Glass in shape, but smaller. It is used for Port, Madeira, and heavy fortified wines. This is the glass which should be used in the serving of wine at an afternoon gathering or as an informal evening refreshment.
Champagne Glasses are of three kinds, the selection being largely a matter of taste.
The “Saucer” Champagne is perhaps the most popular glass just now. It has a thin stem and a wide shallow bowl.
The “Fountain” Champagne will always be preferred by most. It has a hollow stem and deep bowl. The wine, effervescing from the stem, creates a miniature fountain in the center of the glass, with very pretty effect.
The Champagne Tumbler is a glass preferred principally by gentlemen, who are sometimes inclined to scorn the esthetic and who care less for beautiful effects.
JOHN DABNEY’S MINT JULEP.
RICHMOND, VA.
This famous receipt has a history well worth recording of “the man and his julep.” John Dabney was the famous old negro caterer of Richmond until a few years ago. John was a very remarkable character, and in personality most striking, combining as he did some of the Indian with his negro antecedents. He was a slave of a prominent Virginia family, who had consented to set John free some years before the war. John had almost finished paying for his freedom by his thrift and determination when war came. After Mr. Lincoln’s proclamation his master said, “John, you are free.” and wished him good luck, and John started life for himself as a caterer in Richmond. He soon had a small bank account. Meantime war had left his master’s family in reduced circumstances--his master dead. Taking the amount that was still due his old master, had war not settled the account in a different way, John Dabney went to his mistress and begged she would accept what he believed to be rightfully hers. Thomas Nelson Page hearing of the incident embodied it in one of his most characteristic bits of the old South. General Maury meeting John Dabney on the streets of Richmond a few days afterwards extended his hand and said, “John, I have just been reading what Mr. Page says about you, and John you are a gentleman.” Taking off his hat with that well-bred courtesy that the negro of the past had, and the negro of the present has not, he said, “Thanky, General, that’s what I tries to be, sar.” The young men of the different clubs in Richmond had presented John with two very handsome silver loving cups appropriately inscribed. John was very proud of these, and when he wanted to confer an especial honor one of these cups was sent filled to the brim with one of his juleps. One morning at the Old White there was a knock at my door just before breakfast. In answer, there stood one of John’s assistants with one of John’s cups filled to the brim with John’s julep, which he presented with John Dabney’s compliments. On the top rested a pink rose.
Here is what composed this beverage: Crushed ice, as much as you can pack in and sugar, mint bruised, and put in with the ice, then your good whiskey, and the top surmounted by more mint, a strawberry, a cherry, a slice of pineapple, or, as John expressed it, “Any other little fixings you like.” On mine was the pink rose. I pinned on the rose, drank some of that never-to-be-forgotten julep. Had I drunk half, I would have never danced my morning german. Then I went with my father to seek John and express my appreciation of the honor. I found him at the door of his sanctum. With a most profound bow he received my thanks. “Yes, mam,” he said, “I always was mighty fond of your Pa, the General.” Here’s to you, John Dabney! Would there were others of your race to follow in your footsteps.--Sue Mason Maury Halsey--(Mrs. James T. Halsey).
LALLA ROOKH PUNCH. A FAMOUS RECIPE.
MRS. JAMES THOMAS.
_Contributed by Mrs. Robert H. Maury, Richmond, Va._
One quart of cream, 5 eggs, put yolks in saucepan with a heaping teacup of granulated sugar. Let it cook a little, stirring, set aside to cool, then put in a custard glass of brandy, a dash of rum, then add whipped cream, and last the whites of eggs well beaten. Season with nutmeg. Use rock salt to freeze. This will serve 9 persons.
CLARET CUP.
SOMERSET CLUB, BOSTON (1880).
_Contributed by Mr. Charles P. Searle, Boston, Mass._
One qt. claret, large lump of ice, 3 pieces of cucumber rind left in for three minutes, 1 sherry glass Maraschino added after the cucumber is taken out.
BALTIMORE TEA PUNCH.
_Contributed by Mrs. W. Hinckle Smith._