Part 9

In making a Chignon, you have first to make the cushion. Take the combings or waste hair, which is of no other use, and place it between the cards or stiff brushes, the same as for weaving. Use the weaving apparatus, with two piping cords, instead of three small ones, and wind the hair all up, by passing over, between and under the cords. Boil and dry it, and then pull out the cord, which leaves it all crimped, ready to weave, according to directions on page 239. Then sew it on a cord, the same as a switch, and form it in any shape you desire, for a Waterfall, Bow or Puffs. This completes the cushion. Then weave the long hair for the covering, according to directions on page 243, and sew it to the top end of the cushion; comb it out smooth, cover the cushion, and tie a cord around it immediately at the bottom; then bring up the end of the hair, and pin it to the inside. Cut No. 1 is intended to represent the cushion, and No. 2 the complete Waterfall.

Cut No. 3 represents the Bow, which is made in the same manner, by using two small cushions, like cut No. 1, and placing between them a strand of smooth or braided hair.

MAKING PUFFS AND COILS.

[Illustration: No. 1.]

[Illustration: No. 2.]

[Illustration: No. 3.]

To make Puffs for front of head, from false hair, similar to cut No. 1, weave hair from eight to twelve inches long, according to directions on page 241; then take a ribbon, about one and a half inches wide, any length required, and tack it on a wig block, or straight piece of board, and sew the weft crossways a quarter of an inch apart, till the ribbon is entirely covered; then divide it off in as many puffs as desired, comb each out straight, and wind it over the two fore-fingers, close up to ribbon, and put in a hair-pin to retain it.

To make Puffs for back of head, cut No. 2, prepare the same way; make the foundation the shape and size you wish the puffs, and sew it on the same way you want the puffs to run. The puffs may be made over a cushion, formed of crimped hair the shape wanted, and wound over that instead of the fingers. Ladies not wearing false hair, can have her own hair dressed by following the above directions.

Cut No. 3 represents a coil, which is made from a switch, and wound over a long roll of crimped hair. They are much nicer, but more expensive, by being made altogether from a switch, as that can be twisted into a rope or braided, before coiling.

EXPLANATIONS ON HAIR DRESSING.

I herewith present, on the following pages, a number of engravings illustrative of a few of the many styles of Hair Dressing, accompanied with explanatory remarks as to their execution. They are the latest and most fashionable European and American styles, and will prove indispensable to every lady's toilet, as, from the explanations, they will be able, with very little practice, to dress their own hair in any desired style; and when any new style is inaugurated, after studying and practicing the directions given with each illustration, she will find it an easy matter to arrange it accordingly.

Any one learning Hair Dressing, should acquire perfectly the execution of the first pattern--the Promenade Head-Dress--as that is very easily arranged, and when you have once executed it in a perfect manner, the others will prove comparatively easy.

The manner of dressing the hair at the present day calls for much attention, and many inquiries are addressed us on the subject. It is plain, however, that what would correspond with the complexion and physiognomy of one, would certainly have a distasteful appearance on another; consequently, in answering inquiries, I can do nothing more than give the different styles worn. Before giving my illustrations on Hair Dressing, I have given instructions how to weave hair for chignons, curls, switches, &c., and how to put them in shape, and with the directions given with each illustration on Hair Dressing, it will certainly be an easy task to arrange the hair in any style that is now or may be in fashion.

[Illustration: PROMENADE HEAD-DRESS.]

Our first cut represents the Promenade Head-Dress, but is worn as frequently in the drawing-room, and even at public and private assemblies--in fact, a common and very pretty style.

EXPLANATION: Comb the front hair between the temples straight back, over a cushion of crimped hair, forming a Chignon; then make two braids of two small switches, and place one of them over the top of the Chignon, and the other across the forehead, forming a diadem, turning the ends under; then comb the hair from temples over the braids, and put back under the Chignon, and fasten. Place a net of pearl or gilt beads over the Chignon, as in cut. You can use false hair for covering cushion, if desired.

[Illustration: RECEPTION HEAD-DRESS.]

This Head-Dress is a most charming composition, and entirely new. It is adapted either for a brown or fair complexion, to be worn at grand dinners or receptions. Ornamented with pearl or gilt, it is in good taste for evening parties.

EXPLANATION: Curl the hair across forehead, or use false curls, combing the hair straight back, and form a chignon of curls at the back. Place a diadem plait across forehead, and raise the hair from the temples over the plait. Trim with roses and ribbans, or to suit dress.

[Illustration: SOIREE OR EVENING HEAD-DRESS.]

This cut illustrates the Soiree or Evening Head-Dress. It is a very unique and modern style, suited for almost any complexion, and very easily executed.

EXPLANATION: Comb the hair straight back between the temples, tie it, and curl the ends, or use a set of long false curls. Place a diadem plait, made from a switch, across the forehead; then comb the hair back from the temples, over the ends of the plait, twist it, pass it back under the curls, and fasten firmly. Use a fancy back-comb on top of curls, and pin an ornament to diadem plait, with feather and chain attached, as in cut, or trim to suit dress.

[Illustration: GRAND EVENING PARTY HEAD-DRESS.]

A very graceful Head-Dress, of a bold style, suited for a young lady of brown or fair complexion, and is in good taste to be worn at the theatre or Grand Evening Parties.

EXPLANATION: Make a parting over the head, from ear to ear, two inches from front; on the forehead, between the temples, curl the hair in small friz curls, and from the temple to the ear, make loose puffs. Divide the hair in three partings over the head, and roll each in a large puff; then form a large puff of the back hair, round the nape of the neck, as in cut. Fasten a large set of loose curls over the puff, with a comb or other ornament. For reference, see page 245.

[Illustration: EMPRESS HEAD-DRESS.]

A charming Head-Dress, and entirely new, perfectly suiting a fair complexion. It may serve for the theatre or evening parties. When powdered it preferably suits a brown or brunette.

EXPLANATION: Make a front parting, and a cross one from ear to ear. Divide each side into five parts; of the front parting make three puffs on each side. The remaining four make into long puffs, as in cut, according to explanations on page 245. The back hair may be arranged in the same style of puffs, or with a double Chignon, placing a single, long false curl or braid, back of each ear. Trim with orange leaves, or to suit dress.

[Illustration: PARISIAN HEAD-DRESS.]

This Head-Dress, both bold and graceful, is suitable for any complexion or age, when the physiognomy allows it.

EXPLANATION: Comb back the hair from the forehead between the temples, make a large puff on the temples, and three puffs above each ear. Place a cushion at the back of head, and comb the hair over it, forming a chignon; then place a diadem plait, or twist, made from a large switch, round on the top of head, trimmed with leaves or ribbon, as shown in cut.

[Illustration: THE APOLLO HEAD-DRESS.]

This Head-Dress is one of the most graceful styles. It was worn in the time of Louis XIVth, and well agrees with the fashion of the present day. With some modifications, it is suited to every complexion.

EXPLANATION: Crimp the front hair, and raise it over the temples with a puff comb. Comb the hair just above the ear back, and friz the ends, and curl the back hair in large flowing curls, as shown in the cut.

[Illustration: THE MODERN HEAD-DRESS.]

A Head-Dress of elegant composition, coming down from antiquity, suitable for a young and pretty woman, and perfectly agreeing with a fair complexion.

EXPLANATION: Part the hair from temple to temple, one inch from front, comb it up on the forehead, and curl the ends in small snap curls; then comb the hair back from the temples, and form a loose puff. Make three partings across the head, and form a puff of each. Of the back hair, make a braided or plaited chignon, with a few friz curls underneath; then make two puffs back of the ear, as shown in cut. Wear a fancy comb or band over the top of chignon.

[Illustration: EVENING PROMENADE HEAD-DRESS.]

A Head-Dress of extraordinary simplicity, and of a most genteel kind, becoming a dark complexion. It may be adapted for the opera by changing the trimming.

EXPLANATION: First crimp all the hair, then place a cushion high up under the hair at the back, forming a chignon, and friz the ends of the hair from ear to ear under the chignon. Tuck the hair high up on the forehead, place bands of ribbon over the head with a net at the back, and bring the hair above the ear up, and fasten to the ribbon. Pin a ribbon streamer to the net, as in cut.

[Illustration: THE SHEPHERDESS HEAD-DRESS.]

An elegant Head-Dress, and was worn in the time of Louis XVI, for balls and evening parties, or as a disguise when powdered.

EXPLANATION: Separate the hair across the head from ear to ear, three inches from front, and roll it in puffs according to directions on page 245. Do up the back hair in a double chignon, either with your own or false hair; add a set of false curls underneath the chignon, extending from ear to ear. Trim to suit dress with leaves, flowers and ribbon, as shown in illustration.

[Illustration: COURT HEAD-DRESS.]

A rich Head-Dress, having a great stamp of distinction, and for that reason will be adapted for a Court Head-Dress, or Grand Evening Parties.

EXPLANATION: Make a parting over the head from ear to ear, two inches from front, and form a row of nine small puffs over the forehead. Comb the remaining hair back, and divide into four partings around the head, and form each parting in a large puff, as in cut. Add a few small friz curls and orange blossoms between the puffs. For reference see page 245.

[Illustration: YOUNG BRIDE'S HEAD-DRESS.]

An exquisite Head-Dress, of a very graceful style, and well agreeing with a fair or brown complexion, to be worn by a young bride, or at grand assemblies.

EXPLANATION: Comb the hair back and place a set of small loose curls across the forehead; place a diadem plait over the top of the curls, and comb the hair off the temples over the ends of the plait, and form a chignon or bow of the back hair, and place a three-strand braid around the chignon, made either from the ends of hair from the temple or a switch. Add a crown of white blossoms and a veil, as shown in the engraving. If not for a bride, trim to match dress.

[Illustration: NEAPOLITAN HEAD-DRESS.]

An exquisite Head-Dress, of exceedingly graceful and modern style, agreeing with nearly every complexion; may be worn as a promenade or at small parties.

EXPLANATION: Part the hair from front to crown, and from ear to ear; crimp the front, and braid the ends in a three-strand braid, and trim the ends with ribbon. Either braid or twist the back hair, and form into a coil. Place a small plait across the forehead, as shown in the engraving. Deck the hair with flowers or beads, to suit the occasion.

SYNOPTIC OF HUMAN HAIR.

In placing before the public the only book ever published in the "Art of Hair Work," it is but due to the purchasers of it to say something in relation to the trade in Human Hair. It is not my intention, however, to enter into an extended detail and complete history, but simply give a few items that will serve to show what enormous strides have been taken within the last few years in this branch of business. It is a business that but few know anything about--at least in this country, for it is comparatively new here--but it is one that is very rapidly increasing, and is now almost doubling itself each year.

The larger quantity, in fact nearly the whole amount of hair retailed in this country is imported from Europe, where the dealing in human hair has been made an established and legitimate business for years, and a great deal of attention is paid in purchasing and preparing it for the market. Paris is the greatest market for the sale of human hair in the world; but the amount of superfluous hair used and worn throughout all Europe, could we give the figures, would seem incredible. The amount imported to the United States in the years of 1859 and 1860 was not far from 150,000 and 200,000 pounds, which was valued at that time at from $800,000 to $1,000,000. Since that time it has been steadily increasing, and the amount imported last year may be set down at three times as much as during the years above mentioned. Paris also finds as great a sale for the article in Russia as in America--the shipments to each being about equal. Thus, it will be seen, that if all the hair reserved in Europe for the home demand were added to that which is imported, the amount would be almost beyond conception; and yet, but about one-tenth part of the whole production ever leaves its native country.

It is mostly procured from the markets of France, Italy, Russia and Germany, and large quantities are obtained from Norway and Sweden.

The Norwegians were among the first to make ornaments of hair to be worn as jewelry, but, in a great measure, we are indebted to the French for the perfection to which the art has attained. Of the different varieties of hair, that which is obtained in France and Italy is by far the best, being of a much finer texture, even color, and of a more glossy appearance than that from other countries.

The principal requirement in hair to make it valuable is length, and after it is thrown upon the market it is all assorted--the long from the short--which is a task of extreme difficulty.

The prices of hair range all the way from $15 to $200 per pound, (a wide range, but certainly not too large,) and is rated according to hue, length and texture. The smallest price paid is for the short, coarse hair of the poorest quality, and which can be used only for certain purposes. Hair of the ordinary colors range in price from $15 to $100 per pound, but that of gray and white from $100 to $200 per pound, and even then is not considered exorbitant. In fact, hair is worth any and all prices. We know of one dealer who had in his possession a very small quantity, weighing but a half pound and measuring seventy inches, for which he was offered _four hundred dollars!_ and, strange as it may appear, he refused to accept it. White hair is mostly obtained by being picked from the gray, and it not unfrequently happens that many hundred pounds have to be assorted before being able to secure one single pound of pure white. It is mainly used in the manufacture of wigs, and it frequently puzzles the dealer to prepare one for a customer that will exactly match, and this, with the scarcity of the article, cause the extraordinary price.

Hair is shipped in both a prepared and unprepared state. That which is prepared undergoes a process of washing, scouring and cleansing, which leaves it in the nicest possible state; all the oil, dirt and other unhealthy substances are completely separated from it, leaving it perfectly free from all unhealthy influences. That which is shipped in an unprepared, or raw state, is subjected to the same process of cleansing after its arrival, and it is so thorough that it is altogether impossible for anything except the hair to remain. It has frequently been examined with a microscope, which has proved in every case how successful the cleansing process had been, for it revealed nothing whatever of a foreign nature, and, in fact, after its extraordinary cleaning it would be simply impossible.

After being fully prepared it is then made into switches, curls, plaits, fronts, wigs, chignons, and not a small amount is used in the manufacture of hair jewelry, and such other articles as are worn for ornaments. The jewelry manufactured at this time is as durable as the all gold jewelry, and is done in a style of surpassing neatness, thus rendering it beautiful, either as an ornament or memento. There are but very few places in the United States where hair jewelry is made, and as it is comparatively a new business, but few have learned it. It is surprising, however, to notice the many beautiful patterns and elegant designs into which it is transformed. There is nothing in the way of jewelry or ornament of any description but what is or may be made from human hair; and, after being gold-mounted, the contrast between them makes the hair jewelry preferable to the all gold.

There are many strange incidents related of the human hair suddenly changing its color--many of which it is hard to believe--and the causes assigned are various. We are told of persons who, from excessive grief, found their hair had gradually changed from a dark brown to an almost perfect white; others, from the same cause, in the short space of one week discovered their hair plentifully streaked with grey, giving them the appearance, although young, of being quite old. Many have had their hair change on account of extreme fright, but we have now to give the first instance we have ever heard of its turning from white to that of any other color, except by the aid of dyes.

A Parisian, M. Stanislaus Martin, has published in the _Bulletin de Therapeutique_ the curious case of a worker in metals who had wrought in copper only five months, and whose hair, which was lately white, is now of so decided a _green_ that the man cannot appear in the street without immediately becoming the object of general curiosity. He is perfectly well, his hair alone being affected by the copper, notwithstanding the precautions taken by him to protect it from the action of the metal. Chemical analysis shows that his hair contains a notable quantity of acetate of copper, and that it is to this circumstance that it owes its beautiful green color, which is most singular and remarkable.

The practice of wearing false hair, although it was not generally dealt in as traffic, has been in vogue many hundred years. The Greek and Roman ladies were, in olden times, as active in their toilet for the head as the fashionable ladies of the present day, and false hair was always brought into requisition, which was then obtained from the Germans, and they in turn from their slaves.

Powdering the hair, which is now the rage in all fashionable circles, is also an ancient practice, and was as much indulged in by the men as the women. History tells us that the consumption of hair powder by the soldiers of George II was enormous. It was calculated, that inasmuch as the military force of England and the colonies was, including cavalry, infantry, militia and fensibles, 250,000, each man used a pound of flour a week, simply for powdering their hair. The quantity consumed in this way was 6,500 tons per annum; an amount sufficient to sustain 30,000 persons on bread. Gold and silver hair powder was also plentifully used, and at a time much earlier in the world's history, than is generally supposed. Josephus relates that Solomon's horse-guards daily strewed their heads with gold-dust, which glittered in the sun; and there are similar instances of different personages recorded in the bible.

The human hair seems to have been given us both for an ornament and covering--being susceptible of transformation in almost any desired shape, and apparently indispensable for covering and protecting the head. The ancient Greeks were very partial to long hair, considering it by far the more becoming; but the Egyptians regarded it as an incumbrance, shaved their heads, and substituted wigs. The ancients, generally speaking, strangely considered a fine head of hair so desirable, that it became sacred. They frequently dedicated it to the gods, on important occasions of marriage, victory, escape from death and danger, and the burial of friends. Different styles of wearing the hair, was resorted to for denoting the various grades, or positions in life, of the people, some wearing it quite long, others short, and some dressing it in a peculiar manner,--each style, or length, being according to the condition, wealth, or social standing of the wearer. Plucking it out, or neglecting it, was a token of affliction.

Hair contains a very small quantity of water, manganese, iron, and various salts of lime, which have been found by the various methods of analyzation, and it is owing to these properties that it is peculiarly indestructible. It has been found on mummies, more than twenty centuries old, in a perfect and unaltered state, and many instances are related, which are now admitted to be facts, of the hair continuing to grow, for a time, after death.

There has never before been a book written and published, that was particularly dedicated to the subject of Hair, and as the field is a vast one, both as regards the importance of the subject, and the information to be gained thereby, it is simply strange that no one has ever entered it. It has been too long neglected, and the increasing necessity for a treatise of this kind, has been pressed upon the attention of the author, and induced the publication of this work, which will certainly meet the necessities of the age.

There is much else that might be said on this subject that would prove both interesting and instructive, but we prefer for the present to let it rest. We have endeavored in preparing this book both to instruct and amuse; for, by following its instructions, it may be made to be profitable and highly remunerative, and in making articles, either for gifts, mementoes, or otherwise, it will certainly be amusing and entertaining. We have given the instructions in a way that all may readily understand, and as the patterns are numerous, and the designs elegant, we think there can be nothing lacking to make the book all it claims to be.

The principal offices for the sale of these books, will be at my establishments, No. 737 Broadway, New York, and No. 81 South Clark Street, Chicago.

[Illustration]

RETAIL DEPARTMENT.