Part 5
border in tatting forms the lower edge. Omitting this edge, the border forms a strip of insertion. Each of the rosettes or circles is begun in the centre; work first 2 double (a double stitch is formed by passing the thread over the back of the hand, and then passing the shuttle upwards between the forefinger and second finger, and drawing it up, then work a stitch of plain tatting; this completes the double stitch, and whenever so many double stitches are directed it means the 2 stitches), 1 purl, repeat 9 times, join the stitch into a circle, work at a small distance * a smaller ring consisting of 3 double, 5 purl, divided each by 2 double stitches, 4 double, draw the cotton through the purl of the first circle, and repeat 8 times more from *, only each following circle must be fastened on to a purl of the preceding circle after 3 double stitches, and having completed each circle the thread must be drawn through the purl of the first circle, which forms the centre of the rosette. The beginning and the end of the thread are knotted together. For the tatted border, make at short distances 1 loop with 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double; after having worked a sufficient number of such loops, wind another thread round the thread between the loops, turning always 1 loop on the right side and 1 on the left. Now begin the crochet part with the leaves. Make for each of these a foundation chain of 12 stitches, crochet back over this chain 2 double in the last stitch but one, 1 double in the next stitch, 1 treble in each of the following 7 chain, 2 treble in the next stitch, 2 treble, 1 long treble, and 2 treble in the next following stitch of the foundation chain. Work on the other side of the chain the same pattern, only the reverse way; then 3 double in the point of the leaf thus formed, and edge the whole leaf with a round of double stitches, always working 2 double in each stitch of the preceding row, and 3 in the long treble stitch. In working this last round, the circles must be joined to the leaves by taking up the purl stitch of the circle before casting off the corresponding double stitch of the leaf; then work the stem which joins the 2 rows of circles and leaves with a row of chain stitches, on which a row of double is worked. Then comes the border which forms the upper edge. Make a row of chain stitches, joining leaves and circles together, then work 3 rows of treble, work 3 more rows over the tatted border, the first row entirely in chain stitches, after every fourth stitch take up the purl of the loops on one side. 2nd row: 1 treble in the middle stitch of the 3 chain, 2 treble, divided by 3 chain. 3rd row: 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1 under the last. In the last row the leaves and circles must be fastened on the border, as seen in illustration.
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53.--_Diamond in Tatting_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10; tatting-pin No. 2; any sized shuttle.
[Illustration: 53.--Diamond in Tatting.]
1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a double thread is required, and commence by working 5 double stitches, 1 purl, then (3 double, 1 purl 10 times), 5 double, draw up.
Double thread: Putting the thread attached to the reel round the left hand, work 7 single stitches, taking care to do them tightly.
2nd oval: 4 double, join to the last purl of 1st oval, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches tightly worked.
3rd oval: 4 double, join to last purl of 2nd oval, 3 double, join to next purl of 2nd oval, then (3 double, 1 purl 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches.
4th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 8 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches.
5th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches.
6th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 4 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 7 single stitches.
7th oval: 5 double, join to last purl of last oval, then (3 double, 1 purl, 10 times) 5 double, draw up.
Double thread: 7 single stitches.
8th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches.
9th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches.
10th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 8 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches.
11th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 12 single stitches.
12th oval: 4 double, join to last purl of last oval, 3 double, join to next purl, then (3 double, 1 purl, 3 times) 3 double, join to 1st purl of 1st oval, 4 double, draw up.
Double thread: 7 single stitches.
Now cut off both threads, and with a needle fasten off neatly at the back of first oval by sewing 1 thread over the other.
The diamond is now finished. The centre must be filled up with lacework, using fine sewing-cotton.
Arranged in groups of 7 or 8, 3 diamonds form a very pretty trimming for the skirts of silk dresses, the body being trimmed with single diamonds.
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54.--_Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100, tatting-pin No. 3; 1 piece of very fine cord.
This collar is ornamented with a triangle and a border of a very effective pattern. The triangle is begun in the centre, by working for each of the three leaves 5 double stitches, 5 purl divided one from the other by 2 double stitches, and 5 more double stitches. When the third leaf is completed, fasten off and cut the cotton. Now take, instead of the cotton wound upon the shuttle, a piece of extremely fine cord, over which work with the cotton from the reel the following row of stitches:--1 double stitch, fasten the cotton to the centre purl of one of the three leaves, * 2 double stitches, 5 purl divided one from the other by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches, fasten the cotton to the centre purl of the nearest leaf, 2 double stitches, 9 purl divided one from the other by 3 double stitches, 2 double stitches fastened to the same purl as before. Repeat from * twice more, then fasten off, and cut the cord and the cotton. Begin afresh, and work 3 small circles, each composed of 12 plain stitches placed quite close together (these form one of the corners of the triangle), then at small distances one from the other work 13 similar circles, every second one of which is fastened to one purl of the row of
[Illustration: 54.--Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting.]
stitches worked over the cord (see illustration). Cut away from the collar the piece of linen which is to be replaced by the triangle, fold in the edges and work them round in button-hole stitch, and fill up the space with the triangle. For the border, work first * one circle composed of 3 double stitches, 4 purl divided one from the other by 2 double stitches, 3 more double stitches; take up the cord once more and work over it, 3 double stitches, then, without cord, 1 circle composed of 2 double stitches, 12 purl divided one from the other by 2 double stitches, 2 more double stitches; take up the cord again and work over it 3 double stitches, 4 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches. Fasten the cotton to the third purl (reckoning from the last) of the second circle worked without cord; 3 double stitches fastened to the fourth purl of the row of stitches worked over the cord (see illustration), 2 double stitches, 6 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches fastened to the purl of next circle, 3 double stitches fastened to the last purl of the row, 2 double stitches, 3 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 3 double stitches; fasten the cotton to the sixth purl of the circle (reckoning from the beginning), 4 double stitches. Repeat from *. Work over the top of the border a crochet edging similar to that round the diamond pattern of collar No. 49. For the point of the border, at the corner of the collar, see illustration No. 54.
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55.--_Tatted Collar_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100; tatting-pin No. 1.
This collar is worked with very fine tatting cotton. It consists of four branched tatted patterns and of separate tatted circles, fastened on to one another as seen in illustration. The four branched patterns are worked as follow:--3 double, 1 purl, 7 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 3 double, and join the knots into a circle. Work 3 similar leaves close to this 1st leaf, but instead of working the 1st purl, fasten them on to the last purl of the preceding leaf; besides this, instead of
[Illustration: 55.--Tatted Collar.]
working the last purl of the 4th branch, fasten it on to the first purl of the 1st branch. When 1 such four-branched pattern is completed, knot both ends of the cotton together and cut them off. Make a row of similar patterns by joining them on to the 2 middle purl of a branch of the preceding pattern, instead of working the 2 middle purl of the last branch (see illustration). Two rows of similar patterns are joined by the above-mentioned circles, consisting of 32 double stitches, by fastening these circles from illustration between four branched patterns. Begin each circle with 2 double stitches, fasten it on to the corresponding purl of the four-branched pattern, work again 2 double, fasten on to the next purl, and continue in the same manner till the circle is sufficiently large. Each circle is ornamented with lace stitch. The collar is edged round the neck with close button-hole stitches.
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56.--_Tatted Collar_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 3.
This collar is commenced at the top, and worked with fine cotton in the following manner:--1st oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 9 times, draw the cotton into a circle, 3 double, 1 purl, 1 double, 5 times, 1 purl, 3 double, draw the cotton into a circle, and join it to the first purl of the first circle; work two more circles the same as last. 2nd oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 7 times, join the third purl to the third purl of the centre circle of preceding pattern, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 times, 2 double, 1 purl, draw the cotton up, and work 5 small circles, as follow:--3 double *, 1 purl, 1 double, 4 times, * 1 purl, 3 double, joining each circle to the purl of the 2nd oval. 3rd oval: 2 double, 1 purl, 8 times, joining the 3rd purl to the 2nd purl of the centre circle of the preceding pattern, 3 double, 1 purl, 4 times, 2 double, 1 purl, draw the cotton up, and work 7 small circles, similar to the small circles described in 2nd oval.
[Illustration: 56.--Tatted Collar.]
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57.--_Circle in Tatting_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 2.
[Illustration: 57.--Circle in Tatting.]
This circle is worked with fine cotton, and will be very pretty for ornamenting cravat-ends and different articles of lingerie. It is commenced in the centre with 2 double, 1 purl, repeated 8 times, draw the cotton into a ring, and work 8 small circles, as follow:--3 double, * 1 purl, 1 double, repeat from * 6 times, 1 purl, 3 double, draw up the cotton, and join it to the purl of centre ring and corresponding circle. Large circle: 3 double, * 1 purl, 2 double, repeat from * 14 times, 3 double, draw up the cotton, and join it to the 4th purl of small circle. The centre of ring is filled up with lace stitches.
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58.--_Tatting Medallion for Trimming Lingeries, &c._
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50 for cravats and collars, 100 for pocket-handkerchiefs, 20 for petticoats; tatting-pin No. 2 or 3.
This pattern is suitable for trimming cravats, collars, pocket-handkerchiefs, petticoats, &c., according to the size of the cotton with which it is worked. Work first the round of circles which incloses the leaves, overlapping each other in the centre; begin with the smallest circle, which is at the top of the pattern; it consists of 3 double, 1 purl, 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double, 1 purl, 3 double. Then work at a short distance another circle like the preceding one, only work 8 double instead of 7, and instead of working the first purl, fasten the circle on to the last purl of the preceding circle; all the other circles are fastened on to each other in the same manner. The next circle, worked again at a distance of about one-fifth of an inch, has 4 double; fasten it on to the preceding circle, 9 double, 1 purl, 9 double, 1 purl, 4 double. The following four circles are worked like the preceding one; only work in the first of these circles 10 double instead of 9, in the second 11 double, in the third 12 double. The piece of cotton which joins the circles together must also be somewhat longer between the larger circles. Then work a circle
[Illustration: 58.--Tatting Medallion.]
as follows: 5 double, fasten the cotton, 13 double, 1 purl, 13 double, 1 purl, 5 double; then a similar circle, but always working 14 double instead of 13. The next circle consists of 6 double, fasten the cotton, 15 double, 1 purl, 15 double, 1 purl, 6 double; the two following circles are worked in the same manner, working 16 double instead of 15. Then comes the largest circle of the round, which consists of 6 double, 17 double, 1 purl, 17 double, 1 purl, 6 double. Work 11 circles more like the 2nd to 12th of those just described (the 13th circle forms the middle), only the order of sizes must be reversed, so that the round closes with the smallest circle. Then fasten both ends of the cotton together, so that the circles are joined into a circle. Then work round this row of circles another round, the circles of which must be of graduated sizes like those of the first round. Fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of the first small circle of the first round, and work one circle as follows:--3 double, 1 purl, 6 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 3 double; fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of the next circle, &c. The remaining circles are worked in the same manner, only they must be increased and decreased in size gradually like the circles of the first round; this is done by increasing or decreasing the number of purl, instead of working the first purl of every following circle, fasten it on to the last purl of the preceding circle. When the round is completed, fasten both ends of the cotton together. In the centre of the oval pattern, fasten 6 five-branched patterns of graduated size, which are worked in one piece. For the smallest of these patterns work first three circles, consisting of 5 double, 1 purl, 5 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then again 5 double (these circles must be close to each other; the second and third circles must, moreover, be fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle). The cotton is then fastened on the first circle between the beginning and the end of the same, then work close to them two small circles, consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double, fasten the cotton between the beginning and the end of the third circle. The other five-branched patterns are worked in the same manner at intervals of about three-tenths of an inch; but the separate circles of each pattern must become gradually larger. In the largest pattern the three large circles consist of 5 double, 1 purl, 8 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 5 double; the two smaller circles consist each of 15 double, 1 purl, 15 double; the size of the other patterns can easily be worked from this; the cotton which joins these last together is covered by over-casting with a needle and thread, so as to imitate double stitches. The five-branched patterns are then fastened in the oval pattern; they must overlap each other to half way, as seen in the illustration.
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59.--_Tatted Diamond_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, or 80 if required finer; tatting-pin No. 3.
[Illustration: 59--Tatted Diamond.]
This pattern is meant to ornament lingerie; it is worked with fine tatting cotton in the following manner:--Work a * circle consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double, turn the circle downwards and work at a short distance another circle consisting of 5 double, 4 purl divided by 2 double, 5 double; at a similar distance a circle of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 5 purl divided by 2 double, 5 double; then again a circle consisting of 5 double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 3 purl divided by 2 double, 5 double: fasten the cotton on to the first circle. Then turn the work so that the last three circles are turned downwards, leave an interval of at least three-fourths of an inch, and repeat three times more from *, fastening the circles on to each other from illustration. Knot together the beginning and end of the cotton, work button-hole stitches round the cotton which joins the circles, as shown in illustration. The purl stitches of the four middle circles of the diamond are knotted together.
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60.--_Tatted Cravat End_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 3; 2 shuttles.
This cravat end is given in full size. It is ornamented with a tatted medallion, edged with lace. The tatting is worked with tatting fine cotton and two shuttles. Make first the two rosettes which form the centre of the medallion, then the insertion-like part which edges the rosettes. The larger rosette is worked as follows:--Knot the cotton of both shuttles together and work with 1 shuttle only 1 circle consisting of 10 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long, 10 double; * close to this circle, which is turned downwards, work over the cotton with the other shuttle, 1 double, 1 purl, 8 double; this forms one of the scallops joining two circles. Then turn the work again and work close to the just completed scallop another circle like the first, but which is joined to the first circle instead of working the purl. Repeat 4 times more from *. Then work another scallop and fasten both ends of cotton on to the cotton over which the first scallop has been worked, at the place where the scallop is joined to the first circle. The first round of the rosette is thus completed. Work then the 2nd round over the cotton on the 2nd shuttle, beginning to work where the two ends of cotton have been fastened, * 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, fastened on to the purl of the next scallop of the preceding round, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 double fastened on to the cotton between two scallops of the
[Illustration: 60.--Tatted Cravat End.]
preceding round; repeat 5 times more from *. The larger rosette is now completed. The smaller rosette is worked like the first, only without the second round. The insertion-like border is worked in two halves as follows:--The half which touches the edge of the medallion is worked as follows:--Knot both ends of cotton together and *, work with 1 shuttle only 1 circle consisting of 8 double, 1 purl one-fifth of an inch long, 8 double; turn the circle downwards and work close to it over the cotton on the 2nd shuttle 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double; this forms a scallop of the border. Then turn the work again and work close to the scallop another circle like the first, but which is fastened on to the first circle instead of working the purl. Turn the work again, work a scallop like the preceding one, and repeat 15 times more from *, only the scallops at the lower edge of the medallion must have a few double stitches more, as can be seen in illustration. After working the last scallop fasten the two ends of the cotton on to the 1st circle; then cut them off. The second inner half is worked like the first; only the circles are worked without any purl stitch, and fastened on to the circles of the first half from illustration; the scallops of this half are somewhat smaller; each consists of 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double. The completed border is sewn on to the rosettes from illustration; the different pieces must be first fastened on cardboard. The cotton must be wound several times round the long threads, as seen in illustration. The medallion is then sewn into the muslin at the top only; the remaining border is edged, before joining it to the muslin, with a straight row of knots to be worked over cotton, and fastened on to each outer scallop of the border at regular intervals. The number of double stitches between two purl is different, as distinctly seen in illustration. For the lace knot both ends of cotton together, * work with one shuttle only 1 circle consisting of 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double; turn the work and make another circle consisting of 2 double, 9 times alternately 1 purl, 2 double; then fasten this circle on to the preceding one, where it has been joined into a circle, so that both circles meet as seen in illustration. After having turned the work again, work 9 double over the cotton on the 2nd shuttle, which form a scallop between the circles, and repeat from *. The lace is then sewn round the edge of the muslin.
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61.--_Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery_.
Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 60, or No. 40 if desired in a larger size.
[Illustration: 61. Rosette in Tatting and Embroidery.]