Part 2

VIA RIPETTA -- MAUSOLEUM OF AUGUSTUS -- THE CAMPUS MARTIUS -- THE BORGHESE GALLERY -- HILDA'S TOWER -- THE PANTHEON -- BATHS OF AGRIPPA -- S. MARIA SOPRA MINERVA -- COLLEGIO ROMANO -- KIRCHERIAN AND PRE-HISTORIC MUSEUMS -- "THE GESU" -- TEMPLE OF HERCULES -- THE CAPITOLINE HILL -- ARA CŒLI CHURCH -- TEMPLES OF JUPITER CAPITOLINUS AND JUPITER FERETRIUS -- THE TARPEIAN ROCK -- TEMPLES OF CONCORD AND JUNO -- THE TABULARIUM -- ROME FROM THE TOWER -- THE SEVEN HILLS -- MUSEUMS AND PICTURE GALLERY OF THE CAPITOL -- THEATRE OF MARCELLUS -- DECEMVIRAL PRISONS -- PORTICO OF OCTAVIA -- THE GHETTO -- CENCI PALACE -- THEATRE OF BALBUS -- POMPEY'S THEATRE -- CÆSAR'S DEATH -- STATUE OF POMPEY -- SPADA PALACE -- S. PAUL'S HIRED HOUSE -- FABRICIAN BRIDGE -- ISLAND OF THE TIBER -- PONS CESTIUS -- TEMPLES OF JUNO, PIETY, AND HOPE -- HOUSE OF RIENZI -- PONTE ROTTO -- HORATIUS'S BRIDGE -- TEMPLE OF PATRICIAN CHASTITY -- ROUND TEMPLE OF HERCULES -- S. MARIA IN COSMEDIN -- EMPORIUM -- MONS TESTACCIO -- PROTESTANT CEMETERY -- THE AVENTINE HILL -- CHURCHES OF IL PRIORATO, SS. ALEXIUS, SABINA, PRISCA, SABA -- THE CIRCUS MAXIMUS -- S. ANASTASIA -- ARCH OF JANUS (?) -- ARCH OF THE SILVERSMITHS AND CATTLE-DEALERS -- S. GIORGIO IN VELABRO -- CLOACA MAXIMA -- S. TEODORO 146-213

RAMBLE IV.

UNDER THE EASTERN HILLS.

VIA BABUINO -- PIAZZA DI SPAGNA -- TREVI FOUNTAIN -- PIAZZA SS. APOSTOLI -- COLONNA GALLERY -- FORUM AND COLUMN OF TRAJAN -- FORUM OF AUGUSTUS -- TEMPLE OF MARS ULTOR -- ACADEMIA DI S. LUCA -- FORUM OF NERVA -- ALTAR OF MINERVA -- SITE OF THE HOUSE OF POMPEY -- TORRE DI CONTI -- HOUSE OF LUCREZIA BORGIA -- S. PIETRO IN VINCOLI -- THE GOLDEN HOUSE OF NERO AND THE BATHS OF HADRIAN -- THE BASILICÆ OF S. CLEMENT -- TEMPLE OF MITHRAS -- EGYPTIAN OBELISK -- THE BAPTISTERY -- THE LATERAN MUSEUM AND GALLERY -- S. JOHN LATERAN -- SCALA SANTA -- VILLA WOLKONSKY -- THE AMPHITHEATRE -- S. CROCE IN GERUSALEMME -- THE SESSORIUM PALACE -- S. STEFANO ROTONDO -- NERO'S MEAT-MARKET -- S. MARIA DELLA NAVICELLA -- ARCH OF DOLABELLA -- VILLA CŒLIMONTANA -- SS. GIOVANNI AND PAOLO -- TEMPLE OF CLAUDIUS -- THE VIVARIUM AND SPOLIARIUM -- RESERVOIR OF NERO -- CHURCH OF S. GREGORIO 214-248

RAMBLE V.

ON THE HILLS, EAST.

THE PINCIO -- THE FRENCH ACADEMY -- CHURCH OF TRINITA DEI MONTI -- VIA SISTINA -- PIAZZA BARBERINI -- BARBERINI GALLERY -- MONTE CAVALLO -- THE QUIRINAL PALACE -- THE ROSPIGLIOSI PALACE -- COLONNA GARDENS -- CAPITOLIUM VETUS -- TORRE DELLE MILIZIE -- VIA MAGNANAPOLI -- S. AGATA -- S. LORENZO IN PANE E PERNA -- THE HOUSE OF PUDENS, THE BATHS OF NOVATUS, AND THE CHURCH OF S. PUDENZIANA -- SCENE OF TULLIA'S IMPIETY -- BASILICA OF S. MARIA MAGGIORE -- CHURCH OF S. MARTINO -- SETTE SALE -- THE AUDITORIUM AND GARDENS OF MÆCENAS -- ARCH OF GALLIENUS -- S. ANTONIO -- NYMPHÆUM OF ALEXANDER SEVERUS -- TOMBS OF MÆCENAS AND HORACE -- BATHS OF GALLIENUS -- S. BIBIANA -- THE AGGER OF SERVIUS TULLIUS -- THE PRÆTORIAN CAMP -- TEMPLE OF FORTUNA PRIMIGENIA -- PIAZZA DI TERMINI -- BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN, AND CHURCH OF S. MARIA DEGLI ANGELI -- VIA NAZIONALE -- S. PAUL'S WITHIN THE WALLS -- FELICE FOUNTAIN -- THE NEW MINISTRY OF FINANCE -- FLAVIAN TEMPLE -- THE UNFAITHFUL VESTAL'S TOMB -- SALLUST'S VILLA -- VILLA LUDOVISI -- CHURCH AND CEMETERY OF THE CAPPUCCINI -- TABLE OF EGYPTIAN OBELISKS IN ROME 249-271

RAMBLE VI.

THE APPIAN WAY.

THE PORTA CAPENA -- THE VALLEY OF THE MUSES -- BATHS OF CARACALLA -- S. BALBINA -- SS. NEREO AND ACHILLEO, SISTO, CESAREO -- VIA LATINA -- S. JOHN'S AND THE LATIN GATE -- COLUMBARIA OF HYLAS AND VITALINE -- TOMBS OF THE SCIPIOS AND CORNELIUS TACITUS -- THE COLUMBARIA OF THE HOUSEHOLD OF CÆSAR -- ARCH OF DRUSUS -- PORTA APPIA -- TOMBS OF GETA AND PRISCILLA -- CHURCH OF DOMINE QUO VADIS -- TOMB OF ANNIA REGILLA -- CATACOMBS OF S. CALIXTUS AND HEBREWS -- TEMPLE OF CERES AND FAUSTINA -- VILLA OF HERODES ATTICUS -- CATACOMBS OF DOMITILLA, SS. NEREUS AND ACHILLEUS -- BASILICA OF PETRONILLA -- CHURCH AND CATACOMBS OF S. SEBASTIANO -- TOMB OF ROMULUS -- CIRCUS OF MAXENTIUS -- TOMB OF CECILIA METELLA -- TOMBS, TEMPLES, AND VILLAS ON THE VIA APPIA -- THE THREE TAVERNS -- APPII FORUM 273-299

RAMBLES IN THE CAMPAGNA.

PORTA DEL POPOLO: -- Villa Borghese -- Villa di Papa Giulio -- Acqua Acetosa -- Ponte Molle -- Villa of Livia -- Veii -- Monte Mario -- Villas Mellini and Madama. PORTA SALARA: -- Villa Albani -- Catacomb of S. Priscilla -- Antemnæ -- Ponte Salara -- The Anio -- Fidenæ. PORTA PIA: -- Porta Nomentana -- Villa Torlonia -- Church and Catacomb of S. Agnese -- S. Costanza -- Ponte Nomentana -- Mons Sacer -- Tomb of Virginia -- Basilica and Catacomb of S. Alexander. PORTA S. LORENZO: -- The Roman Cemetery -- Basilica of S. Lorenzo -- Ponte Mammolo -- Hannibal's Camp -- Castel Arcione -- Aquæ Albulæ -- Ponte Lucano -- Tomb of the Plautii. TIVOLI: -- Villa D'Este -- Temples of Sibyl and Vesta -- The Glen and Falls -- Pons Vopisci -- Villa of Quintilius Varus -- The Cascades -- Ponte dell'Acquoria -- Villa of Mæcenas -- Temple of Hercules -- Hadrian's Villa. PORTA MAGGIORE: -- The Baker's Tomb -- The Aqueducts -- Tomb of Helena (?) -- Gabii -- Ponte di Nona -- Villa of the Gordian Emperors -- Tomb of Quintus Atta. PORTA S. GIOVANNI. _First Excursion_: -- Via Appia Nova -- Painted tombs -- S. Stephen's -- The Aqueducts -- Pompey's Tomb -- Albano -- Ariccia -- Genzano -- Lake and Village of Nemi -- Palazzolo -- Lake Albano -- Castel Gandolfo -- Site of Alba Longa (?) -- Vallis Ferentina -- Marino -- Grotta Ferrata -- Cicero's Villa. _Second Excursion_: -- Frascati -- Tusculum -- Rocca di Papa -- Monte Cavo. PORTA S. SEBASTIANO: -- Via Appia. (See page 258.) PORTA S. PAOLO: -- Pyramid of Caius Cestius -- S. Paul's outside the walls -- Remuria Hill -- Tre Fontane -- The Viaduct of Ancus Martius. OSTIA: -- Street of Tombs -- Houses -- Warehouses -- Temples -- Docks -- Palace -- Walls of Ancus Martius -- Museum -- View from Tower of the Castle -- Castel Fusano -- Pliny's Villa 302-349

VISITOR'S ROMAN DIRECTORY.

ARTISTS IN ROME, ENGLISH AND AMERICAN -- ARTISTS, NATIVE AND FOREIGN -- CARRIAGE TARIFF -- GALLERIES, MUSEUMS, AND VILLAS OF ROME -- HOTELS RECOMMENDED -- PUBLIC LIBRARIES -- MASONIC -- ORDERS REQUIRED, AND WHERE OBTAINABLE -- OMNIBUS ROUTES IN ROME -- PROTESTANT CHURCHES IN ROME -- POSTAL NOTICES -- LIST OF EMPERORS -- LIST OF KINGS OF ROME 350-358

FIRST IMPRESSIONS.

To get a good idea of Rome and its topographical situation, take a carriage and drive for three hours through the principal streets; more can be learned in this way than in any other.

_Start from the_ Piazza di Spagna; drive down the Via Babuino to the Piazza del Popolo, up to the Pincio, for a view of Rome, looking west; then along the Via Sistina, up the Quattro Fontane, to the right, down the Via Quirinale; stop in the square for the view. Proceeding to the Via Nazionale, turn up it to the left as far as the Quattro Fontane; then turn to the right past S. Maria Maggiore direct to the Lateran, from the front of which see the view eastwards; then follow the Via S. Giovanni down to the Colosseum, passing by the most perfect part. By the Via del Colosseo, Tor di Conti, Via Croce Bianca, Arco dei Pantani, Forum of Augustus, and Via Bonella, you reach the Forum, under the Capitoline Hill. Continuing by the Via Consolazione and Piazza Campitelli, follow the line of streets to the Ponte Sisto; crossing this, proceed up the Via Garibaldi to S. Peter in Montorio. Grand view of Rome and the Campagna, looking north, east, and south.

_Return_ to the foot of the hill; turn to the left down the Lungara to S. Peter's; drive round the square; then down the Borgo Nuovo to the Castle of S. Angelo. Crossing the bridge, take the Via Coronari to the Circo Agonale; then on to the Pantheon, and by the Minerva to the Piazza di Venezia; thence up the Corso as far as the Via Condotti, up which street you return to the Piazza di Spagna, after having thus made the most interesting drive in the world.

THE TOPOGRAPHY OF ROME.

Rome commences at a point--Piazza del Popolo--and spreads out southwards like a fan, the western extremity being occupied by the Vatican, and the eastern by the Lateran; both these head-quarters of the Papacy are isolated from the rest of the city. Modern Rome occupies the valley of the Campus Martius, which was outside ancient Rome, and the hills that abut it. Rome is divided into two unequal parts by the river Tiber, which enters the line of the walls, with the Popolo on its left. For a short distance it flows southwards; then it makes a great bend to the west; then again takes a southerly direction; and at the island again turns westerly. One mile south of the Popolo Gate is the Capitoline Hill, the Arx of ancient Rome, dividing, as it were, Old from New Rome. It rises two hundred yards east of the Tiber, and from it in an eastern direction lie the other six hills, curving in a horse-shoe form round the Palatine till the Aventine abuts the river. Of the hills, the Palatine, Capitoline, Cœlian, and Aventine were only isolated mounts, the Quirinal, Viminal, and Esquiline being three spurs jutting out from the high tableland on the east side of Rome. These hills can easily be distinguished from the Tower of the Capitol; but the best way to understand them is to walk round them. Then it will be seen that they are hills indeed; and if we take into consideration that the valleys have been filled in from thirty to forty feet, and that the tops of the hills have been cut down, we may get some idea of their original height. Rome still occupies four of them; but the Aventine, Cœlian, and Palatine are left to ruins, gardens, and monks.

The original Rome was on the Palatine, and as the other hills were added they were fortified; but it was not till the time of Servius Tullius that the seven were united by one system of fortifications into one city. The plan was simple. From the Tiber a wall went to the Capitoline, and from that to the Quirinal; across the necks of the three tongues the great agger was built, then across the valleys from hill to hill till the wall again reached the river under the Aventine. The aggers across the valleys were built right up towards the city, so that the hills on either side protected the walls and gates commanding the approach. Of all the maps of Rome that have been published, the new one accompanying this work is the only one which correctly shows the line of the Servian fortifications.

THE PLAN OF OUR RAMBLES.

From the Piazza del Popolo four great lines of thoroughfare intersect the city, and passing up one of these for a few hundred yards we may count five lines. First we take the centre thoroughfare; then the two lines on its right; then the two upon its left: in this way, by dividing Rome up into five Rambles, pointing out as we go along every place of interest to the right and left, we mark out for a day's work no more than can be thoroughly done. Having thus seen the city, we take the environs outside each gate, commencing at the Porta del Popolo and working round by the east, with the exception of the Porta Appia, which leads out on to the Appian Way. As this Way presents so many points of interest, and as no visitor should think of leaving Rome without "doing it," we have made it a special Ramble for their benefit.

HEALTH AND CLIMATE.

Perhaps the health of no city in the world is so much talked about by people who know nothing whatever of the subject, as Rome. We meet with many visitors entertaining all sorts of curious ideas of the health of Rome--what they may and may not do; and when we ask them their authority they cannot give any, but "they have heard so." There seem to be mysterious ideas and impressions floating about that get lodged in some minds no one knows how. People get ill in Rome, of course, just as in any other place; but more than half the sickness is caused through their own imprudence, such as getting hot and going into cold places, and going "from early morn till dewy eve" without rest and refreshment. In all hot climates certain precautions should be observed, and then there is no fear.

We ourselves have lived many years in this much-abused climate, never knowing any illness, and enjoying far better health than when residing in London. O ye rain, mud, and fog!

The well-known Roman physician, Dr. C. Liberali, M.D., in his "Hygienic Medical Hand-book for Travellers in Italy," says:--"The climate of Rome is in the highest degree salubrious and favourable to all, but especially to delicate persons; but they should follow the advice of a skilful physician of the country."

People rush through Europe at express rate, eat all sorts of things that they are unused to at unusual hours, over-exert themselves, change the whole course of the living to which they have been accustomed, get ill, and then say, "It's the climate of Rome."

There is no doubt that malaria fever does exist in the neighbourhood of Rome, but only during the three hot months; and as there are no visitors at Rome then, they are not likely to get it. It does not walk about the streets seeking whom it may devour, as some people suppose.

The fever visitors get is ague fever, like that known in the Fen districts, and this is invariably taken through imprudence.

USEFUL HINTS.

Avoid bad odours.

Do not ride in an open carriage at night.

Take lunch in the middle of the day. This is essential. It is better to take a light breakfast and lunch, than a heavy breakfast and no lunch.

No city in the world is so well supplied with good drinking water as Rome. The best is the Trevi water. Do _not_ drink Aqua Marcia; it is too cold.

If out about sunset, throw an extra wrap or coat on, to avoid the sudden change in the atmosphere. There is no danger beyond being apt to take a cold. Colds are the root of all evil at Rome.

Do not sit about the ruins at night. It may be very romantic, but it is very unwise. There is no harm in walking.

Close your windows at night.

If you get into a heat, do not go into the shade or into a building till you have cooled down.

Do not over-fatigue yourself.

Follow these hints, and you will avoid that great bugbear, Roman fever.

"A hint on the spot is worth a cart-load of recollections."--GRAY.

THE TIBER.

The work of clearing the bed of the Tiber has at last commenced. It is proposed to clear away the accumulation of the mud at different parts, remove some of the old masonry that stands in the bed of the river, and widen it at certain points. We very much doubt if this will have any effect upon the floods, as during the republic and empire, when there was not all this accumulation, Rome was flooded several times. The valley of the Tiber, in which Rome stands, is very low, forming, as it were, a basin which is easily overflowed. It would be advisable if the authorities were to clean out the old drains, and put swing trap-doors over their mouths, so that the drainage might flow out, and the river prevented from flowing in. Every winter some part of the city is under water, which is caused by the river rushing up the drains into the city, and not by the overflow of the Tiber. This inpouring might easily be stopped.

Some people think that treasures will be found in the bed of the Tiber, but this is a delusion. Nothing of any value has ever been found in the river, and it is not likely that anything of value was thrown there. Small objects only have been found in the recent dredging. The story of the seven-branched candlestick being thrown into the river is a delusion, for we have direct evidence to the contrary. (See p. 89.)

The piers of the bridges show that the actual bed of the river has not been much raised; indeed the stream flows so fast that everything is carried down to the sea.

_Punch_ says anticipations may be entertained of finding the footstool of Tullia, the jewels of Cornelia, the ivory-headed sceptre of the senator Papirius, and the golden manger of the horse of Caligula.

The length of the Tiber is 250 miles. It rises due east of Florence, in the same hills as the Arno. Its bed at the Ripetta in Rome is 5.20 metres above the sea, and it discharges at the rate of 280 cubic metres a second. The fall from Rome to the sea is 4.20 metres, or about thirteen feet, and it flows about five miles an hour.

"'Behold the Tiber!' the vain Roman cried, Viewing the ample Tay from Baiglie's side; But where's the Scot that would the vaunt repay, And hail the puny Tiber for the Tay?" SIR WALTER SCOTT.

The river was originally called the Albula, from its colour, and it was named Tiberis, from King Tiberinus of Alba Longa, who was drowned in it, and became the river-god (Dionysius, i. 71).

The ancient Romans looked upon their river with veneration; their poets sang its praises, its banks were lined with the villas of the wealthy, and its waters brought the produce of the world to Rome.

HOW ROME BECAME RUINS.

"The Goth, the Christian, time, war, flood, and fire, Have dealt upon the seven-hilled city's pride."

Rome was founded in the year 753 B.C., and it gradually increased, as we all know, till it became the capital of the world. By a summary of dates we will endeavour to give an idea of the manner in which Rome became ruins.

In July 390 B.C. it was devastated by fire. Up to 120 B.C. it was subject to numerous raids by the Northerners, who, with the help of civil war, and a devouring fire in 50 B.C., caused the destruction of several of its most splendid buildings. In 64 A.D., during the reign of Nero, a terrible fire ravaged the city for six days; and again in 89 A.D. another fire took place, lasting three days. In the reign of Commodus a third fire occurred, which consumed a large portion of the city. In 330 A.D. Constantine took from Rome a number of monuments and works of art to embellish Constantinople. From 408 to 410 A.D. Rome was three times besieged by the Goths, under Alaric, who plundered and fired the city; and in 455 A.D. the Vandals took possession of Rome and plundered it. On June the 11th, 472 A.D., the city was captured by the Germans, under Ricimer, and in 476 A.D. the Roman Empire was broken up.

About 590 A.D. continual wars with the Lombardians devastated the Campagna. In 607 A.D. the Bishop of Rome was made Pope. In 755 A.D. the Lombards again desolated Rome; and up to 950 A.D. it was held successively by the Emperor Louis II., Lambert Duke of Spoleto, the Saracens, the German king Armilph, and the Hungarians. In 1083 it was taken by Henry IV. of Germany; and in 1084 it was burned, from the Lateran to the Capitol, by Robert Guiscard. From the eleventh to the sixteenth century many of its buildings were turned into fortresses by the nobles, who made continual war upon each other; and during the "dark ages" the Romans themselves destroyed many monuments, in order to make lime for building their new palaces and houses.

Thus we see that when, in 55 B.C., Julius Cæsar, with his "_Veni, vidi, vici_," conquered the little island now called Great Britain, Rome contained in ruins many evidences of past splendour, and whilst the Romans were overrunning the rest of Europe, their empire was hastening to decay. We, the savages of those days, have ever since been growing in strength and wisdom, laying the foundations of future empires, overturning others, but not with the idea of "universal conquest," but simply for a "balance of power." Ancient Rome, by the help of invaders, flood, fire, the Popes, and its inhabitants, was reduced to ruins, which have been in considerable part preserved by an immense accumulation of soil, which, again, caused them to be forgotten till recent explorations once more brought them to light.

Modern Rome stands thirty feet above the level of Ancient Rome, and is a strange mixture of narrow streets, open squares, churches, fountains, ruins, new palaces, and dirt. Built during the seventeenth century, the city is situated in a valley which formed part of the ancient city, and lies to the north of it, being divided from it by the Capitoline Hill, and offering to the visitor attractions which no other city can boast. The germ of the old Roman race which civilized the world is still alive, and is quickly rising to a new life--lifting itself, after twenty centuries of burial, from the tomb of ignorance and oppression. Here is the centre of art and of the world's past recollections; here is spoken in its purity the most beautiful of languages; here are a fine climate and a fine country; and here are being strengthened the power and the splendour of united Italy.

THE WALLS OF ROME.

FIRST WALL--ROMA QUADRATA.

The city of Romulus, upon the Palatine Hill, was called from its shape Roma Quadrata. It occupied the half of what we know as the Palatine, and was surrounded by a wall built up from the base of the hill, and on the top of the scarped cliff: this wall can be still traced in part. It was formed of large blocks of tufa, hard stone, and must not be confounded with the remains of the Arcadian period, on the Palatine, composed of soft tufa.

"Romulus called the people to a place appointed, and described a quadrangular figure about the hill, tracing with a plough, drawn by a bull and a cow yoked together, one continued furrow" (Dionysius, i. 88).

"He began to mark out the limits of his city from the Forum Boarium, so as to comprise within its limits the Great Altar of Hercules. The wall was built with Etruscan rites, being marked out by a furrow, made by a plough drawn by a cow and a bull, the clods being carefully thrown inwards, the plough being lifted over the profane places necessary for the gates" (Tacitus, xii. 24).

When the Sabines were approaching to attack the Romans, in revenge for carrying off their women, Romulus strengthened the wall of Roma Quadrata, and the Capitoline Hill was occupied as an outpost.

"He raised the wall of the Palatine Hill by building higher works upon it, as a farther security to the inhabitants, and surrounded the adjacent hills--the Aventine, and that now called the Capitoline Hill--with ditches and strong palisades" (Dionysius, ii. 37).