XXVIII.

ALEXANDRIA, EGYPT, _January 10, 1842_.

A few days since, at an early hour in the morning, all hands were on deck looking anxiously for the land of Egypt. At length we discovered in the distance the minarets of the mosques, Pompey’s Pillar and other objects, and soon found ourselves in the harbor of Alexandria. Our steamer was immediately surrounded by about sixty boats, filled with half naked Arabs and Egyptians, of all colors and complexions, whose yells and cries for luggage would surpass those of savages. Having heard that the plague still existed, none were permitted to board us, but our fears in getting ashore were soon dispelled on learning that few cases existed. After procuring camels to carry our luggage, we were beset by another swarm in the shape of donkeys and drivers, and in self-defence our party all mounted, and soon found ourselves going at a fearful gallop through crowded streets, amongst loaded camels and yelping dogs, with our half-naked, sore-eyed Arabs chasing alongside and applying the stick in a lively manner. The Egyptian donkey is peculiar to this country, and superior in point of speed to any I have found in Europe. They are the omnibuses of the city, and it is surprising to see how rapidly and easily they pass through crowded streets.

I must first give you a better idea of Alexandria as it now is under Mehemet Ali, and not as it once was under Alexander the Great, when it only yielded to imperial Rome in wealth and magnificence. Formerly it was fifteen miles in circumference, with a population of three hundred thousand citizens and as many slaves, with four thousand palaces, four thousand baths, and four hundred theatres and public edifices. In different directions may be seen the ruins of ancient days. The Frank quarter of Alexandria reminded me more of a new American city than anything that I have seen since I left Trieste. The Pasha is doing everything in his power to resuscitate the city and increase its commercial importance, at the expense of Damietta, Rosetta, and Cairo. The population, notwithstanding the fearful ravages of the plague, is said to be fifty or sixty thousand. I must here mention that the interior of the town is, in most places, a succession of narrow, dirty, unpaved lanes, filled with camels, asses, lizards, and dogs, and I only wonder the plague does not exist all the year.

My first excursion was to Pompey’s Pillar. My friend and myself mounted on donkeys, and away we galloped through the suburbs of the city, passing occasionally groups of Egyptian women with their heads and faces covered with a sort of blue cotton cloth, concealing all except their eyes, the lids of which are singularly colored with India ink. They are particularly fond of ornaments, which are suspended from the ears and from the forehead over the veil. On passing several groves of palm, date, and banana trees, and feeling the powerful rays of the sun at mid-day, I was reminded of the West India climate, from which this does not materially differ. After passing through a long line of Arab huts we came to this magnificent column, erected by Pompeius, governor of Lower Egypt, in honor of the Emperor Diocletian. Standing on a gentle elevation it rises nearly one hundred feet in height. The shaft is of red granite, ten feet in diameter, with a clumsy Corinthian capital on the top to crown the summit. Notwithstanding it is more than two thousand years old, it still remains almost perfect.

We next directed our attention to the beautiful Obelisks, one of which is commonly called Cleopatra’s Needle, and still stands erect in all its grandeur and beauty, covered with hieroglyphics on every side. It is sixty-four feet high and eighty-eight feet square, and was brought from the city of Memphis to adorn the palace of the Ptolemies. The hieroglyphics are as clear on one side as if but recently sculptured, but the sirocco blowing from the desert two thousand years has effaced the marks on one side considerably, and worn away the solid granite. The other obelisk, which lies beside it, is said to have been taken down by the English many years ago; but Mehemet Ali prevented them from taking it away, and there it lies half covered with sand, a magnificent piece of work.

On entering the harbor of Alexandria I was surprised at the extent of the Egyptian fleet, and had a strong desire to visit some of the naval vessels, the arsenal, &c. On visiting the latter we were accompanied through every department by the commandant, a French gentleman, who was exceedingly polite; and here we found about four thousand persons, which is only a portion of those employed during the war. I was also surprised at finding shipbuilding, casting furnaces, ropemaking, in a word all that is necessary for fitting out a navy. Among the number of officers there were some young Arabs who had been sent to England to acquire knowledge in the arts. I observed among the workmen that many had lost an eye, and others had the two first fingers of the right hand cut off. I concluded that the cause of the first was ophthalmia, which is very general in Egypt, being caused by the burning rays of the sun upon the desert, but found on inquiry that during the war, when conscriptions were made for soldiers in the army, hundreds and thousands, to prevent being liable to military service, preferred destroying the pupil of the right eye with a small rod of hot iron, or by cutting off the forefingers of the right hand, thus preventing the use of it in pulling the trigger; but the Pasha was not to be thwarted in his designs, and actually formed left-handed regiments, and also employed those conscripts in the public service.

The next day, after visiting the public works, our party visited the palace of the Pasha, which is extensive and fitted up with taste, in the oriental style, with high ceilings and divans extending on three sides of the grand saloons; also the great luxury of the East, splendid marble bathing rooms. The palace is beautifully situated, with a view of the harbor in front, and picturesque and rich gardens in the rear.

On leaving the palace on the water side by arrangement with the Swedish consul, under whose patronage we were, we found the captain of an Egyptian cutter, with fourteen oarsmen, in attendance to convey us on board of one of the one hundred gun frigates, which carries seven hundred men. After having satisfied our curiosity in the examination of a beautiful frigate in fine order, we repaired to the cabin and accepted the universal civilities of the East, a pipe six feet in length, well charged with Egyptian tobacco, and a small cup of coffee, all of which must be submitted to, or you give offence.

My two travelling Companions and myself, who purpose visiting Upper Egypt in going to the cataract of the Nile, taking Grand Cairo, the Pyramids, Memphis, and the ruins of Thebes in the route, are now busily employed in procuring a suitable boat, with supplies of all provisions necessary for six weeks or two months.

We intend leaving to-morrow if our servants succeed in getting beds, furniture, provisions, and all the paraphernalia of housekeeping which are necessary for such a voyage. Therefore you may expect to hear from me next at Grand Cairo.