CHAPTER XIII

SOUPS

Soups are divided into two leading classes, viz.:—

1. Clear soups, which include plain and garnished consommés. 2. Thick soups, which comprise the Purées, Veloutés, and Creams.

A third class, which is independent of either of the above, inasmuch as it forms part of plain, household cookery, embraces vegetable soups and Garbures or _gratined_ soups. But in important dinners—by this I mean rich dinners—only the first two classes are recognised.

When a menu contains two soups, one must be clear and the other thick. If only one is to be served, it may be either clear or thick, in which case the two kinds are represented alternately at different meals.

In Part I. of this work I indicated the general mode of procedure for consommés and thick soups; I explained how the latter might be converted from plain purées into veloutés or creams, or from veloutés into creams; and all that now remains is to reveal the recipes proper to each of those soups.

_Remarks._—In the course of the recipes for consommés, given hereafter, the use of Royales (Nos. 206 to 213) and of Quenelles, variously prepared (Nos. 193 to 195 and 205), will often be enjoined. For the preparation of these garnishes, therefore, the reader will have to refer to the numbers indicated.

The quantities for the clear soups that follow are all calculated to be sufficient for a standard number of six people, and the quantity of Royales is always given in so many _dariole-moulds_, which contain about one-eighth pint, or _baba-moulds_, which hold about one-fifth pint.

Of course, it will be understood that the poaching need not necessarily have been effected in these moulds, for very small “Charlotte” moulds would do quite as well. But I had recourse to the particular utensils mentioned above, in order that there might be no sort of doubt as to the exact quantity of royale it would be necessary to prepare for any one of the soups.

=Clear Soups and Garnished Consommés=

539—CONSOMMÉ ALEXANDRA

Have a quart of excellent chicken consommé ready; add thereto, in order to thicken it slightly, three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca, strained through muslin, and very clear.

Put the following garnish into the soup-tureen: One tablespoonful of white chicken-meat cut in fine _julienne-fashion_, one tablespoonful of small chicken quenelles, grooved and long in shape, and one tablespoonful of lettuce _chiffonade_.

Pour the boiling consommé upon this garnish, and send to the table immediately.

540—CONSOMMÉ AMBASSADRICE

Have one quart of chicken consommé ready; also there should have been prepared beforehand, with the view of using them quite cold, three different kinds of royales, consisting respectively of truffle purée, tomato purée, and purée of peas, each of which should have been poached in a _dariole-mould_.

Cut these royales up into regular dice, and put them in the soup-tureen with one tablespoonful of chicken fillet and an equal quantity of small, freshly-cooked mushrooms, finely minced. Pour the boiling consommé over these garnishes, and serve at once.

541—CONSOMMÉ ANDALOUSE

Prepare a _baba-mould_ of royale made from tomato purée. When quite cold, cut it into dice, and put these in the soup-tureen with one small tablespoonful of cooked ham cut in _julienne-fashion_, one tablespoonful of boiled rice, with every grain distinct and separate, and two tablespoonfuls of threaded eggs (No. 217).

When about to serve, pour one quart of very clear chicken consommé over the garnish.

542—CONSOMMÉ D’ARENBERG

With a small spoon-cutter, pick out a spoonful of carrot pearls and the same quantity of turnip pearls. Cook these vegetables by boiling them in consommé, taking care that the latter be reduced to a glaze when the vegetables are cooked. With the same spoon take the same quantity as above of very black truffle; also prepare a _dariole-mould_ of royale made from asparagus heads, and a dozen small chicken-forcemeat quenelles, which should be moulded to the shape of large pearls.

Poach the quenelles, cut the royales up into slices, which must be stamped with an indented fancy-cutter, and put the whole into the soup-tureen with the carrots, turnips, and truffle pearls, and one tablespoonful of very green peas.

Pour a quart of chicken consommé over the garnish, and send to the table at once.

543—CONSOMMÉ A LA BOHÉMIENNE

Prepare three _dariole-moulds_ of foie-gras royale, and twelve _profiterolles_ (No. 218) of the size of hazel-nuts, the latter being made very crisp.

When the royale is cold, cut it into little, regular squares, and put these into the soup-tureen.

When about to serve, pour over this garnish a quart of chicken consommé, thickened by means of three tablespoonfuls of tapioca, poached and strained through linen.

Send the _profiterolles_ to the table separately, and very hot.

544—CONSOMMÉ BOÏELDIEU

Prepare eighteen chicken-forcemeat quenelles, moulded by means of a small teaspoon; some should be stuffed with foie-gras purée, moistened with a little velouté; others with chicken purée; and yet others with truffle purée—in short, six of each kind.

Place these, one by one, on a buttered sauté-pan; poach them, drain them, and put them in the soup-tureen with a tablespoonful of white chicken-meat, cut into dice.

When about to serve, pour one quart of chicken consommé, thickened as above with tapioca, over the garnish.

545—CONSOMMÉ BOUQUETIERE

Prepare a garnish of carrots and turnips, cut with the tubular cutter or with the spoon; French beans cut into lozenges, asparagus-heads, and green peas, all of which vegetables should be fresh and young. Cook each vegetable according to its nature, and put the whole into the soup-tureen.

When about to serve, pour over the garnish one quart of chicken consommé thickened with two tablespoonfuls of tapioca, poached and strained through fine linen.

546—CONSOMMÉ BOURDALOUE

Prepare a _dariole-mould_ of each of the four following royales:—

1. Of a purée of haricot-beans with a slight addition of tomato.

2. Of a chicken purée moistened with velouté.

3. Of a purée of asparagus-tops combined with a few cooked spinach leaves, to deepen the colour.

4. Of a carrot purée (Purée Crécy).

Having poached and cooled the royales, cut them as follows:—

(1) Into dice, (2) into lozenges, (3) into little leaves, and (4) into stars.

Place them all in the soup-tureen, and, when about to serve, pour one quart of boiling and very clear chicken consommé over them.

547—POTAGE BORTSCH

Cut in _julienne-fashion_ the heads of two leeks, one carrot, half of an onion, four oz. of the white of cabbage leaves, half a root of parsley, the white part of a stick of celery, and four oz. of beetroot; set the whole to stew gently in butter.

Moisten with one quart of white consommé and two or three tablespoonfuls of the juice of grated beetroot; add a small bunch of fennel and sweet marjoram, two lbs. of moderately fat breast of beef, and the half of a semi-roasted duck; set to cook gently for four hours.

When about to serve, cut the breast of beef into large dice, and cut the duck into small slices; finish the soup with one-quarter pint of beetroot juice, extracted from grated beetroot pressed in linen, and a little blanched and chopped fennel and parsley. Put the beef dice and sliced duck into the soup, with twelve grilled and despumated _chipolatas_.

Serve, separately, a sauceboat of sour cream.

N.B.—The _chipolatas_ may be replaced by very small patties with duck forcemeat, which should be served separately.

548—CONSOMMÉ BRUNOISE

Cut into small dice the red part only of two small carrots, one small turnip, the heads of two leeks, a small stick of celery, and the third of an onion of medium size.

Season the vegetables moderately with salt and a pinch of sugar, and stew them in butter. Moisten with one-half pint of consommé, and complete the cooking of the Brunoise gently. Five minutes before serving, finish with one quart of boiling, ordinary consommé, a moderate tablespoonful of peas, and the same quantity of French beans, cut into dice and kept very green.

Pour into the soup-tureen, and add a pinch of fine chervil _pluches_.

549—CONSOMMÉ CARMEN

Prepare one quart of consommé, to which add, while clarifying, one-quarter pint of raw tomato purée, in order to give it a faint, pink tinge.

Also peel and press a small and rather firm tomato; cut into dice, and poach the latter in some of the consommé; put them in the soup-tureen with a small tablespoonful of mild capsicum, cut in fine _julienne-fashion_, and one tablespoonful of plain-boiled rice.

When about to serve, pour the boiling consommé over the garnish, and add a small pinch of chervil _pluches_.

550—CONSOMMÉ CASTELLANE

Prepare (1) one quart of game consommé, flavoured with a _fumet_ of woodcock; (2) two _baba-moulds_ of royale, two-thirds of which consists of a purée of woodcock and one-third of lentils, with half the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, chopped and thickened with the usual leason.

Cut this royale into slices, about the size of a florin, one-half inch thick. Put these into the soup-tureen, together with one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of roast woodcock fillets, and pour thereon the boiling game consommé.

551—CONSOMMÉ CÉLESTINE

Prepare one quart of chicken consommé, and add thereto three small tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca, strained through fine linen.

For the garnish make three _pannequets_ (No. 2403 and 2476) without sugar, and spread over each a thin coating of chicken forcemeat with cream. Place one on top of the other, sprinkle the layer of forcemeat on the uppermost one with finely-chopped, very black truffles, and place in the front of the oven for a few minutes, in order to poach the forcemeat.

Stamp the _pannequets_ out with an even fancy-cutter about one inch in diameter. Put the pieces into a soup-tureen, and, when about to serve, pour in the boiling consommé.

552—CONSOMMÉ CHARTREUSE

Prepare (1) eighteen small _ravioles_ (No. 2296)—six from spinach purée, six from foie-gras purée, and the remaining six from chopped mushrooms; (2) two small tablespoonfuls of tomato dice. Ten minutes before serving, poach the _ravioles_ in boiling, salted water, and the tomato dice in some of the consommé.

Put the ravioles and the tomato dice (well drained) into the soup-tureen, and pour over them one quart of consommé with a moderate addition of tapioca. Add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.

553—CONSOMMÉ AUX CHEVEUX D’ANGE

About two minutes before serving, plunge three oz. of very fine vermicelli, known as Angel’s Hair (Cheveux d’Ange) into one quart of excellent, boiling consommé.

An instant only is needed to poach the vermicelli, and the latter does not require to be blanched.

This soup, like those containing pastes, should be accompanied by freshly-grated Parmesan cheese.

554—CONSOMMÉ COLBERT

Have ready one quart of excellent _Printanier_ chicken consommé (No. 601). Also poach six small eggs in slightly salted and acidulated water. The eggs should be as small and as fresh as possible, both of which conditions are absolutely necessary for a proper poaching (see poached eggs, No. 411). Set these eggs in a small timbale with a little consommé, and send them to the table with the Printanier. Having poured the latter into the plates, put one of the eggs into each of these.

555—CONSOMMÉ COLOMBINE

Prepare a good tablespoonful of carrot pearls, and as many turnip pearls, keeping the latter very white. Cook them in the customary way, and put them in the soup-tureen with one tablespoonful of very green peas, one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of roast-pigeon fillets, and six poached pigeons’ eggs, which latter should be sent to the table in a timbale at the same time as the consommé.

Pour over the other garnish one quart of very clear, boiling, chicken consommé, and serve immediately.

This soup can only appear on summer and spring menus, when the pigeons’ eggs are in season.

556—CROÛTE AU POT

Prepare a freshly-cooked vegetable garnish for a stockpot:—Carrots and turnips cut into small sticks and trimmed; a few heads of leeks, and cabbage, parboiled, minced, and cooked in very fat consommé.

Put these vegetables in a somewhat greasy broth for ten minutes.

Also prepare seven or eight crusts of French soup “_flutes_”; besprinkle them with stock grease, and dry them in the oven. Put the vegetable garnish into the soup-tureen; pour thereon one quart of consommé of the Petite Marmite (No. 598), and add to the dried crusts.

557—CONSOMMÉ CYRANO

Prepare (1) one quart of consommé with a _fumet_ of duck; (2) twelve small quenelles of duck forcemeat, which should be made flat and oval. Having poached the quenelles, drain them, and set them in a small, shallow earthen pan or timbale; sprinkle with a little grated Parmesan cheese and a few drops of chicken glaze, and set to glaze in the oven.

The quenelles are served separately in the pan in which they have been glazed, and the consommé is sent to the table in a soup-tureen.

558—CONSOMMÉ DEMIDOFF

With the small spoon-cutter, pick out a good tablespoonful of carrot, and the same quantity of turnip pearls. Cook these vegetables in the customary way, and put them in the soup-tureen with one tablespoonful of truffle pearls, the same quantity of peas, and small, poached, chicken-forcemeat quenelles with herbs. Pour one quart of boiling chicken consommé over this garnish, and add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.

559—CONSOMMÉ DESLIGNAC

Prepare (1) two small, stuffed lettuces, rolled into sausage form and poached; (2) two _baba-moulds_ of royale with cream. Cut the royale into small, regular dice; trim the lettuce, and cut it into slices; put this garnish into the soup-tureen, and pour thereon one quart of boiling chicken consommé, thickened with three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca, strained through linen. Add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.

560—CONSOMMÉ AUX DIABLOTINS

Cut a French soup “_flute_” into twelve slices one-quarter inch thick. Reduce about one-quarter pint of Béchamel to a thick consistence; add thereto, away from the fire, two heaped tablespoonfuls of grated Gruyère cheese, and season with a little cayenne.

Garnish the slices of soup “flute” with this preparation, arranged in the form of a dome, upon a tray, and set it to glaze a few minutes before serving.

Pour one quart of chicken consommé into the soup-tureen, and add the diablotins.

561—CONSOMMÉ DIPLOMATE

Roll into small sausage-form three oz. of chicken forcemeat, finished with crayfish butter. Poach the sausages, cut them into thin roundels, and put them into the soup-tureen with one dessertspoonful of very black truffle, cut in _julienne-fashion_.

Pour over this garnish one quart of boiling chicken consommé, thickened with two tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca, strained through linen.

562—CONSOMMÉ DIVETTE

Prepare two _baba-moulds_ of royale made from crayfish velouté, eighteen small quenelles of smelt forcemeat, moulded to the shape of pearls, and one tablespoonful of small pearls of very black truffle.

Cut the royale into oval slices, and put these into the soup with the poached quenelles and the truffle pearls.

Pour one quart of very clear, boiling consommé over the garnish.

563—CONSOMMÉ DORIA

Prepare the following garnish:—Thirty pellets of cucumber in the shape of large pearls; eighteen small quenelles of chicken forcemeat, long in shape and grooved; six little pellets, about the size of a large pea, of _pâte à choux_, combined with grated cheese, rolled by hand; and one and one-half tablespoonfuls of Japanese pearls, poached in some of the consommé.

Put the cucumber pellets, cooked in consommé, into the soup-tureen; add the poached quenelles and the Japanese pearls.

Four minutes before serving, plunge the pellets of _pâte à choux_ into hot fat, keeping them crisp.

When about to serve, pour over the garnish one quart of boiling chicken consommé; complete with a pinch of chervil _pluches_, and serve the little, fried pellets separately.

564—CONSOMMÉ DOUGLAS

With an even cutter, the size of a penny, cut up some braised and cooled sweetbread into twelve roundels one-third inch thick; with the same cutter cut out twelve more roundels from some cooked artichoke-bottoms, and put the whole into the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of very green asparagus-heads.

When about to serve, pour one quart of boiling, highly seasoned, ordinary consommé upon the garnish.

565—CONSOMMÉ A L’ÉCOSSAISE

Prepare a special mutton broth, and, at the same time, cook a fine piece of breast of mutton for the garnish.

Per two quarts of broth, put into the soup-tureen four tablespoonfuls of pearl-barley, cooked very gently beforehand; two tablespoonfuls of French beans, cut into lozenges, and the breast of mutton cut into regular dice of one-half inch side, in the proportion of one tablespoonful for each person.

Pour the boiling mutton broth over this garnish, after having removed all the grease and strained it through linen.

566—CONSOMMÉ FAVORITE

With a spoon-cutter, pick from out some violet potatoes eighteen pellets the size of small hazel-nuts, and cook them in salted water in good time for them to be ready for the dishing up of the soup. Put them in the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of artichoke-bottoms and the same quantity of cooked mushrooms, also cut in _julienne-fashion_.

Pour over the garnish one quart of chicken consommé, thickened with three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through linen. Add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.

566a—CONSOMMÉ A LA FERMIÈRE

Mince, somewhat finely, one small carrot, one small turnip, the heads of two leeks, and the half of an onion. Slightly stew these vegetables in one and one-half oz. of butter; moisten with one and one-half pints of white consommé; add two oz. of parboiled cabbage, cut roughly into a _julienne_, and complete the cooking gently, taking care to remove all grease, with the view of obtaining a very clear consommé.

Pour into the soup-tureen, and add a few thin slices of French soup “_flute_,” slightly dried.

567—CONSOMMÉ FLORENTINE

With fine chicken forcemeat make twenty-four small quenelles on a buttered tray, their shape being that of small Mecca loaves. To the forcemeat of six of these quenelles add some very finely chopped tongue; add white chicken-meat to that of another six; and to that of the remaining twelve add some very reduced spinach purée. The quenelles with spinach should number twice those with the other two ingredients, in order that the preparation may be in keeping with its designation “à la Florentine.”

Poach the quenelles; put them in the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of very green, cooked peas.

When about to serve, pour one quart of very clear, boiling chicken consommé over this garnish, and add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.

568—CONSOMMÉ GAULOISE

Prepare two _dariole-moulds_ of ham royale, and poach the latter in a small, well-buttered Charlotte mould. When quite cold, cut it into large lozenges, and put these into the soup-tureen with six small cocks’ combs and six small cocks’ kidneys (these latter as small as possible).

When about to serve, pour over this garnish one quart of chicken consommé, thickened slightly with two tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca, strained through linen.

569—CONSOMMÉ GEORGE SAND

Have ready one quart of consommé flavoured with very clear fish _fumet_. Also prepare twelve small quenelles of whiting forcemeat, finished with crayfish butter; stew twelve morels, which should be left whole if very small, and cut into two if they are of medium size; twelve small slices of poached carps’ milt, and twelve little roundels of French soup “_flutes_.”

Put the poached quenelles and the stewed morels into the soup-tureen; pour therein the boiling, fish consommé, and send the slices of carps’ milt set on the roundels of French soup “_flute_” separately to the table.

570—CONSOMMÉ GERMAINE

Prepare two _dariole-moulds_ of royale made from a purée of very green peas, combined with a tablespoonful of Mirepoix stewed in butter, and a strong pinch of small, chervil _pluches_; eighteen small quenelles of chicken forcemeat with cream, moulded to the form of pastils.

When the royale is cold, cut it into regular roundels, and put these into the soup-tureen with the poached quenelles.

When about to serve, pour one quart of boiling chicken consommé over the garnish.

571—CONSOMMÉ GIRONDINE

Prepare (1) one quart of highly-seasoned beef consommé; (2) two _baba-moulds_ of ordinary royale made with whole eggs and combined with two tablespoonfuls of cooked and finely-chopped lean ham; (3) three tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of carrots (the red part only) stewed in butter, the cooking of which should be completed in the consommé.

Put the royale, cut into large, regular lozenges, and the _julienne_ of carrots into the soup-tureen, and pour in the boiling beef consommé.

572—CONSOMMÉ GRIMALDI

Have ready one quart of excellent ordinary consommé, to which have been added, while clarifying, four tablespoonfuls of raw tomato purée, strained through fine linen.

Also prepare two _dariole-moulds_ of ordinary royale, and three tablespoonfuls of a fine _julienne_ of the white of celery, stewed in butter, finally cooked in the consommé, and with all grease removed.

Put the royale, cut into large dice, and the _julienne_ of celery into the soup-tureen, and pour thereon the boiling consommé with tomatoes.

573—CONSOMMÉ IMPERIALE

Prepare three _dariole-moulds_ of mousseline forcemeat of fowl (No. 195), and put it to poach in a small Charlotte mould.

When quite cold, cut it, by means of a cutter, into roundels the size of a penny, and put these in the soup-tureen with six small _blanched_ cocks’ combs and three sliced cocks’ kidneys, and two tablespoonfuls of very green peas.

Pour over this garnish one quart of chicken consommé, thickened with three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through linen.

574—CONSOMMÉ A L’INDIENNE

Have ready one quart of ordinary consommé seasoned with curry. Also prepare three _baba-moulds_ of royale made from cocoanut milk, and, when quite cold, cut into small dice.

Put this royale into the soup-tureen; pour on it the boiling consommé with curry, and send to the table, separately, four tablespoonfuls of Rice à l’Indienne (No. 2254).

575—CONSOMMÉ A L’INFANTE

With some _pâte à choux_ (No. 2374) prepare eighteen _profiterolles_ of the size of hazel-nuts. Cook them, taking care to keep them very crisp, and stuff them when cold with purée de foie gras moistened with velouté.

Put two tablespoonfuls of a fine _julienne_ of mild capsicum into the soup-tureen, and pour thereon one quart of boiling chicken consommé, moderately thickened with poached tapioca strained through linen.

Serve the _profiterolles_ of foie gras separately, after having heated them in the front of the oven.

N.B.—The garnish of Consommé à l’Infante may consist only of the _profiterolles_, and the _julienne_ of capsicum may be suppressed; this is a matter of taste.

576—CONSOMMÉ JACQUELINE

With a small spoon-cutter, pick from out some carrots twenty-four little oval pellets, which should be cooked in the consommé. Prepare two _baba-moulds_ of royale with cream.

Put into the soup-tureen the pellets of carrots and the royale cut to the shape of pastils, one tablespoonful of peas, the same quantity of very green asparagus-heads, and one tablespoonful of rice.

When about to serve, pour one quart of boiling chicken consommé over this garnish.

576a—CONSOMMÉ JULIENNE

Cut into fillets, two inches in length, the red part only of two medium-sized carrots, one medium-sized turnip, one leek, half a stick of celery, some cabbage leaves, and half an onion. Season these vegetables with a pinch of salt and as much castor sugar; stew them in one oz. of butter; moisten with one and one-half pints of white consommé, and then add two oz. of small parboiled cabbages, cut after the manner of the other vegetables.

Finish the cooking gently, removing the grease the while, and complete with one small tablespoonful of very green, cooked peas, one tablespoonful of sorrel and lettuce _chiffonade_, and one pinch of chervil _pluches_.

577—CONSOMMÉ LORETTE

Have ready one quart of chicken consommé. Also prepare two tablespoonfuls of a fine _julienne_ of celery stewed in butter and cooked in the consommé; twelve small “pommes à la lorette” (No. 2226), the size of hazel-nuts, and shaped like small crescents. These potatoes should be fried in hot fat four minutes before serving.

Put into the soup-tureen the _julienne_ of celery, twelve small, freshly-poached cocks’ kidneys, and one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of pimentos; pour the boiling consommé over this garnish; add a pinch of chervil _pluches_, and send the lorette potatoes to the table separately.

578—CONSOMMÉ MACDONALD

Prepare (1) one quart of highly seasoned beef consommé, (2) two _dariole-moulds_ of brain-purée royale; (3) two tablespoonfuls of cucumbers cut into small dice and cooked in consommé until the latter is reduced to a glaze; (4) five little _ravioles_ garnished with chicken forcemeat combined with a third of its volume of spinach. Put these _ravioles_ to poach in salted boiling water twelve minutes before serving.

Put into the soup-tureen the royale of brains cut into roundels one-third inch thick, the dice of cucumber, and the _ravioles_ poached and well drained.

Pour the boiling beef consommé over this garnish just before serving.

579—CONSOMMÉ MARGUERITE

Take two tablespoonfuls of chicken forcemeat with cream, and roll it into sausage-form on the floured mixing-board. Put the sausage to poach. Rub the yolk of an egg through a fine sieve, and cohere it with half a teaspoonful of raw forcemeat.

Having poached and cooled the chicken sausage, cut it into thin roundels, and stamp each roundel with a fancy-cutter to the shape of a marguerite. Arrange the marguerites on a dish, and lay in the middle of each a bit of the egg and forcemeat, in imitation of the flower-centre.

Put these marguerites into the soup-tureen with one tablespoonful of small, green asparagus cut into lengths of one inch. When about to serve, pour one quart of very clear, boiling chicken consommé over this garnish.

580—CONSOMMÉ MARQUISE

Prepare one quart of good, ordinary consommé, to which three sticks of celery have been added, while clarifying, in order that the taste of the celery may be very decided.

Make thirty small quenelles of chicken forcemeat combined with finely-chopped filberts, giving them the shape of pastils.

Poach these quenelles ten minutes before serving. Also poach in _court-bouillon_ two calf’s piths, and cut them into thin roundels.

Put the poached quenelles and the roundels of calf’s piths into the soup-tureen, and pour thereon the boiling consommé.

581—CONSOMMÉ MERCÉDÈS

Prepare one quart of chicken consommé with pimentos, combined, at the last minute, away from the fire, with one-half pint of sherry.

Put into the soup-tureen two tablespoonfuls of capsicum, cut in fine _julienne-fashion_ and short, and some small, freshly-cooked cocks’ combs.

When about to serve, pour the consommé over this garnish.

582—CONSOMMÉ MESSALINE

Prepare one quart of chicken consommé, and add thereto, while clarifying, one-quarter pint of tomato essence, obtained by reducing the moisture contained by the tomato to a syrup.

Put into the soup-tureen twelve small, freshly-poached cocks’ combs, two tablespoonfuls of Spanish capsicum cut into a _julienne_ and poached in the consommé if fresh (this should have been previously grilled, with the view of removing the skins), and two tablespoonfuls of poached rice, every grain of which should be distinct.

Pour the boiling consommé over this garnish.

583—CONSOMMÉ METTERNICH

Prepare one quart of game consommé with pheasant _fumet_. Also poach two _dariole-moulds_ of royale, made from a purée of artichokes combined with some tablespoonfuls of the reduced game Espagnole. Cut this royale into dice; put these into a soup-tureen with one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of pheasant fillets, and pour thereon the boiling consommé.

584—CONSOMMÉ A LA MILANAISE

Cook in slightly salted boiling water two oz. of moderately thick macaroni. As soon as it is cooked, drain it, lay it on a piece of linen, and cut it into small rings. Also prepare one-quarter pint of Béchamel, thickened with the yolk of one egg combined with one oz. of grated cheese, and keep it very dense.

Mix the rings of macaroni with this sauce; spread the whole on a dish, and leave to cool. Now divide up the preparation into portions the size of walnuts; roll these into balls, and then flatten them out to form quoits about the size of shillings. Treat these quoits with an _anglaise_, and very fine bread-crumbs, and plunge into hot fat four minutes before serving. Drain them when they have acquired a fine golden colour.

Pour one quart of boiling chicken consommé into the soup-tureen, and send to the table, separately, (1) the fried macaroni quoits; (2) one and one-half oz. of Gruyère and Parmesan cheese, in equal quantities, grated and mixed.

585—CONSOMMÉ MIREILLE

Add one tablespoonful of very concentrated tomato purée to three oz. of chicken forcemeat; roll this preparation into the form of a somewhat large sausage, and poach it. When cold, cut it into roundels, one-quarter inch thick, and stamp each roundel with an oval fancy-cutter in the shape of a medallion. Put these medallions in the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of saffroned pilaff rice (No. 2255), and, when about to serve, pour thereon one quart of very clear, boiling chicken consommé.

586—CONSOMMÉ MIRETTE

Make eighteen quenelles of chicken forcemeat in the shape of large pearls, and poach them. Prepare two tablespoonfuls of lettuce _chiffonade_ (the heart of one lettuce cut _julienne-fashion_ and stewed in butter); make eighteen _paillettes_ with Parmesan (No. 2322), and put them in a very hot oven eight or ten minutes before serving.

Put the poached quenelles and the lettuce _chiffonade_ into the soup-tureen; pour thereon one quart of boiling consommé of the Petite Marmite, and one pinch of chervil _pluches_.

Send the _paillettes_ au Parmesan to the table separately, and have them very hot.

587—CONSOMMÉ MONTE CARLO

Make and poach thirty small quenelles of chicken forcemeat; _cisel_ and stew in butter the heart of one lettuce; prepare twelve little _profiterolles_ of _pâte à choux_, the size of hazel-nuts, and cook them, taking care to keep them crisp.

Put the quenelles and the lettuce _chiffonade_ into the soup-tureen; pour thereon one quart of very clear, boiling, chicken consommé, and add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.

Serve the _profiterolles_ separately and very hot.

588—CONSOMMÉ MONTMORENCY

Have ready one quart of chicken consommé thickened with three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca, strained through linen.

Prepare eighteen small grooved quenelles of chicken forcemeat. Poach, drain, and put them into the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of very green asparagus-heads and two tablespoonfuls of poached rice, every grain of which should be distinct and separate.

589—CONSOMMÉ A LA MOSCOVITE

Prepare one quart of sterlet or sturgeon consommé, and add thereto some cucumber essence, obtained by pounding a cored and peeled cucumber, and straining the resulting purée through linen.

Put into the soup-tureen two tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of salted mushrooms, one oz. of soaked _vesiga_ cut into dice and cooked in broth, and pour thereon the boiling consommé.

N.B.—_Vesiga_ or the spine-marrow of the sturgeon ought to be soaked in cold water for a few hours in order to soften and swell it, after which it should be cut into dice and cooked in broth. For every four tablespoonfuls of cooked _vesiga_, one oz. of dry _vesiga_ should be allowed.

590—CONSOMMÉ NESSELRODE

Have ready one quart of game consommé, prepared with hazel-hen _fumet_. Poach two _baba-moulds_ of royale made from chestnut purée with two small tablespoonfuls of game _salmis_ sauce added thereto; cut it into roundels half-inch thick, and trim these with a grooved fancy-cutter.

Put them into the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of hazel-hen fillets, the same quantity of a _julienne_ of mushrooms, and pour thereon the boiling game consommé.

591—CONSOMMÉ AUX NIDS D’HIRONDELLES

The nests used for this soup are those of the esculent swallow, and their shape somewhat resembles that of the rind of a quartered, dry orange.

In the first place, prepare a chicken consommé containing a large proportion of nutritious principles. Set three nests to soak in cold water for twenty-four hours, the object being to swell the mucilaginous elements of which they are composed and to make them transparent.

When they have soaked sufficiently remove any pieces of feather which may have remained in them, using for this purpose the point of a needle, and, when the nests are quite clean, drain them and put them into the consommé. At this stage set the consommé to boil, gently, for thirty or thirty-five minutes without interruption. During this time the gummy portions of the nests will melt into the consommé, giving the latter its characteristic viscidity, and there will only remain visible those portions which, in the natural state, constitute the framework of the nests; that is to say, little threads not unlike superfine transparent vermicelli.

592—CONSOMMÉ AUX ŒUFS DE FAUVETTE

I introduced this consommé in honour of the illustrious singer, Adelina Patti.

It consists of a chicken consommé, which should be made as perfect as possible, and a garnish composed of the poached eggs of small birds.

593—CONSOMMÉ OLGA

Prepare one quart of excellent ordinary consommé, and add thereto, when about to serve and away from the fire, one-quarter pint of port wine.

Also cut into a fine _julienne_ the quarter of a small celeriac, the white of a leek, and the red part only of a small carrot. Stew this _julienne_ in butter and complete its cooking in consommé, reducing the latter to a glaze.

When about to serve put this _julienne_ in a soup tureen, add a few tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of salted gherkins, and pour thereon the consommé with port.

594—CONSOMMÉ D’ORLÉANS

Lay on a buttered tray ten small quenelles of ordinary chicken forcemeat, ten others of chicken forcemeat combined with a very red tomato purée, and ten more of the same forcemeat, combined with a purée of spinach, all the quenelles being grooved.

Ten minutes before serving poach these quenelles, drain them, put them in the soup-tureen, and pour therein one quart of chicken consommé thickened with three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through linen. Add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.

595—CONSOMMÉ D’ORSAY

Prepare one quart of very clear chicken consommé, also make fifteen small quenelles of pigeon forcemeat moulded to the shape of eggs by means of a very small spoon, and poach the yolks of ten eggs, taking care to keep them very soft.

Put the quenelles and the poached yolks into the soup-tureen with a _julienne_ of three fillets of pigeon and a tablespoonful of asparagus-heads, and pour thereon the boiling consommé. Serve at once.

596—OX-TAIL SOUP

_For Ten People._—Garnish the bottom of a small stock-pot or stewpan with one fine carrot and two medium-sized onions cut into roundels and browned in butter, and one faggot. Add two small ox-tails, or one of medium size weighing about four lbs. (The tails should be cut into sections, each of which should contain one of the caudal vertebræ, and they should then be browned in the oven.) Also add two lbs. of gelatinous bones, broken very small and likewise browned in the oven.

Now proceed exactly as for brown veal stock (No. 9), taking note that the whole moistening must consist of no more than two and one-half quarts of ordinary broth and one quart of water.

Set to boil very gently for four and one-half or five hours. This done, strain the broth, which should be reduced to two and one-half quarts, and completely remove its grease. Transfer the largest sections of the tails, by means of a braiding-needle, one by one to another saucepan. Cover them with broth, and keep them warm for the garnish.

Finely chop one lb. of very lean beef; put this mince into a saucepan with the white of a leek cut into dice and half the white of an egg, and mix thoroughly. Add the broth, the grease of which has been removed, set to boil, stirring constantly the while, and then leave to simmer for one hour, which is the time required for the beef to exude all its juices and for the clarification of the broth.

While the clarification is in progress cut a small carrot in _brunoise fashion_, or turn it by means of a very small spoon. Cook this garnish in a little water with butter, salt, and sugar.

A few minutes before serving strain the ox-tail broth through a napkin, put the sections of ox-tail and _brunoise_ into the soup-tureen, and pour thereon the prepared broth. This soup may be flavoured with port or sherry, but this is optional.

N.B.—If a thickened ox-tail soup be required add to the broth per every quart of it one-third of an oz. of arrowroot diluted with a little of the broth or some cold water.

597—CONSOMMÉ PARISIENNE

Have one quart of chicken consommé ready.

For the garnish prepare two _dariole-moulds_ of royale made from a purée of ordinary _julienne_, a small _macédoine_ of vegetables, comprising one heaped tablespoonful each of carrots and turnips divided up by means of a small grooved spoon and cooked in the usual way, one tablespoonful of small peas, the same quantity of fine French beans cut into lozenges, and one tablespoonful of asparagus-heads.

Cut the royale into regular roundels; put these in the soup-tureen with the _macédoine_ of vegetables, and, when about to serve, pour thereon the boiling chicken consommé. Add a pinch of fine chervil _pluches_.

598—LA PETITE MARMITE

_For Ten People._—Prepare a consommé in a special earthenware stock-pot in accordance with the procedure indicated in recipe No. 1, but with the following quantities, viz., two lbs. of lean beef and as much breast of beef, one marrow-bone tied in a muslin-bag, and the necks, the pinions, and the gizzards of six large fowls, these giblets being inserted in the stewpan one hour before dishing up.

Moisten with three and one-half quarts of water and add three-quarters of an oz. of salt. Set to boil, skim as indicated, and cook gently with the view of obtaining a very clear broth. One hour before serving add six oz. of carrots and the same quantity of turnips, both cut to the shape of large olives, five oz. of the white of leeks, and a heart of celery.

Cook a quarter of a very white, properly _blanched_ cabbage, separately, in a saucepan with a little consommé and some stock grease.

When about to serve test the seasoning of the consommé, which latter should be very clear; thoroughly clean the stewpan, which may even be covered with a clean napkin; withdraw the marrow-bone; take it out of its muslin-bag, and send it and the cabbage to the table separately, accompanied by a plate of small pieces of hot toast for the marrow.

599—THE POT-AU-FEU

Prepare this exactly like the Petite Marmite.

600—POULE AU POT, or Poule au Pot Henri IV

This is a variation of the Petite Marmite, in which a tender and very fleshy hen is substituted for the giblets of fowl.

_Strictly observe_ the rule of never using a new earthenware stock-pot before having boiled water in it for at least twelve hours. Also bear in mind that earthenware stock-pots should be washed in hot water only, without any soda or soap.

601—CONSOMMÉ PRINTANIER

Have ready one quart of chicken consommé, also cut one carrot and one turnip into roundels one-half inch thick. With a tubular cutter one-eighth inch in diameter, cut these roundels into little rods, making a sufficient number to fill one tablespoonful with each vegetable. Cook these little rods in consommé, and reduce the latter to a glaze.

Put the carrot and turnip rods into the soup-tureen with one tablespoonful of small peas, the same quantity of small French beans and asparagus-heads, the former cut into lozenges, ten roundels of sorrel leaves, and as many of lettuce leaves, the latter being poached in some consommé. When about to serve pour the boiling consommé over these garnishes and add a large pinch of small chervil _pluches_.

602—CONSOMMÉ PRINTANIER AUX QUENELLES

Prepare the printanier exactly as directed above, but slightly lessen the quantities of the vegetables constituting the garnish.

Make eighteen small quenelles of chicken forcemeat in the shape of little grooved meringues, and poach them ten minutes before dishing up.

Drain them, put them into the soup-tureen with the other garnishes, and pour thereon the boiling consommé.

603—CONSOMMÉ AUX PROFITEROLLES

Prepare forty very dry _profiterolles_ (No. 218), and add an excellent chicken consommé to them at the last moment.

The _profiterolles_ may also be made to the size of walnuts, in which case they may be stuffed with a purée of chicken, foie gras, &c.

604—CONSOMMÉ RACHEL

Prepare one quart of chicken consommé, and thicken it with three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through linen. With a round, even cutter stamp out twelve roundels of crumb of bread the size of pennies and one-half inch thick. Poach in consommé as many slices of very fresh beef-marrow as there are roundels of bread.

Six minutes before serving fry the roundels of bread in clarified butter, hollow out their centres, and place on each a slice of poached beef-marrow suitably trimmed.

Put three tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of cooked artichoke bottoms into the soup-tureen, pour thereon the thickened consommé, and add the roundels of bread garnished with marrow.

605—CONSOMMÉ REJANE

Prepare one quart of excellent white consommé, set it to boil, and add a _julienne_ of the white of half a fowl and the heads of two leeks cut similarly to the fowl. Set to cook gently for ten minutes, taking care to disturb the consommé as little as possible, add three oz. of potatoes cut into a _julienne_, complete the cooking, and serve immediately.

606—CONSOMMÉ RENAISSANCE

Prepare one quart of clear chicken consommé.

For the garnish make two _dariole-moulds_ of royale with a purée of early-season herbs thickened with velouté and whole eggs; with a small grooved spoon-cutter pick out one tablespoonful of pellets from a turnip and the red part only of a carrot. Cook these vegetables in the usual way. Cut the royale with a grooved fancy-cutter into pieces of the shape of small leaves. Put the leaves of royale into the soup-tureen with the carrot and turnip pellets, one tablespoonful of very green peas, the same quantity of French beans cut into lozenges, one tablespoonful of asparagus-heads, and twelve very small particles of very white cauliflower. Pour the boiling consommé over these garnishes, and add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.

607—CONSOMMÉ RICHELIEU

Have ready one quart of highly-seasoned beef consommé. Also (1) prepare twelve quenelles of chicken forcemeat moulded by means of a small coffee-spoon, proceeding as follows:—Line the spoon with a thin coating of the forcemeat, and in the middle lay some chopped, reduced, cold chicken aspic. Cover the jelly with a layer of forcemeat, shaping it like a dome; insert another spoon (first dipped in hot water) under the quenelle, and place the latter upon a buttered sautépan. Repeat the operation until the required number of quenelles have been moulded. Treated in this way, the quenelles, when poached, contain, so to speak, a liquid core. Five minutes before dishing up, poach the quenelles.

2. Cut six rectangles out of lettuce leaves; spread a thin layer of forcemeat over each; roll into _paupiettes_, and poach in some of the consommé.

3. Prepare two tablespoonfuls of a coarse _julienne_ of carrots and turnips, stew them in butter, and complete their cooking in the consommé, which should be thoroughly cleared of grease.

Put the _julienne_, the _paupiettes_, and the stuffed quenelles into the soup-tureen; pour therein the boiling beef consommé, and add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.

608—CONSOMMÉ ROSSINI

Prepare one quart of chicken consommé, slightly thickened with two tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through linen.

Make eighteen _profiterolles_, from _pâte à choux_ without sugar (No. 2374), to the size of hazel-nuts. Bake them in a moderate oven, keeping them very crisp, and garnish them, inside, with a foie-gras and truffle purée.

When about to serve, pour the consommé into the soup-tureen, and dish the _profiterolles_ separately, after having placed them in good time in the front of the oven, so that they may reach the table very hot.

609—CONSOMMÉ ROTHSCHILD

Have ready one quart of game consommé, prepared with pheasant _fumet_. Add thereto, when about to serve, one-quarter pint of reduced Sauterne. Make two _dariole-moulds_ of royale from a preparation consisting of one-third of the whole of purée of pheasant, one-third of chestnut purée, and one-third of pheasant _salmis_ sauce. Poach the royale; cut it into grooved roundels, and place these in the soup-tureen with one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of fillets of pheasant.

When about to serve, pour the boiling consommé over the garnish.

610—CONSOMMÉ SAINT HUBERT

Take one quart of game consommé, prepared with venison _fumet_. Finish the consommé, at the time of serving, with one-quarter pint of Marsala.

Make three _dariole-moulds_ of royale from a preparation consisting of one-third of the whole of venison purée, one-third of lentil purée, and one-third of reduced game Espagnole. Poach the royale in a small Charlotte mould, and, when it has cooled, cut it up with a fancy-cutter of the shape of a cross. Put the crosses of royale into the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ consisting of fillets of hare, and pour thereon the boiling consommé.

611—POTAGE SARAH BERNHARDT

Sprinkle three tablespoonfuls of tapioca into one quart of boiling chicken consommé, and leave to poach gently for fifteen or eighteen minutes.

Make twenty small quenelles from chicken forcemeat, finished by means of crayfish butter, and mould them to the shape of small, grooved meringues. Poach these quenelles. Cut twelve roundels, the size of a penny, from a piece of beef-marrow, and poach them in the consommé.

Put the drained quenelles and the poached roundels of marrow into the soup-tureen; add one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of very black truffles, and the same quantity of asparagus-heads. Pour the boiling consommé, with tapioca, over this garnish.

612—CONSOMMÉ SÉVIGNÉ

Keep one quart of very clear chicken consommé very warm.

Prepare ten quenelles of chicken forcemeat, moulded by means of a small coffee-spoon, and poach them; also have ready four braised lettuces.

Put the quenelles, the lettuce cut into small sections and properly trimmed, and one tablespoonful of peas into the soup-tureen; pour therein the boiling consommé and a pinch of chervil _pluches_.

613—CONSOMMÉ SOUVERAINE

Have ready one quart of chicken consommé.

Make ten large quenelles from chicken forcemeat, and stuff them with a very fine _brunoise_, proceeding as follows:—Line a dessertspoon with a thin coat of forcemeat, and garnish the centre with the _brunoise_, previously cooked in consommé, and cold. Cover the _brunoise_ with a layer of forcemeat, shaping it like a dome; insert another dessertspoon dipped into hot water under the quenelle, and transfer the latter to a buttered sautépan. Repeat the operation until the required number of quenelles have been moulded.

Allow eight minutes for the poaching of these quenelles; put them into the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of peas; pour thereon the boiling consommé, and add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.

614—TURTLE SOUP

With the exception of a few leading London restaurants, where a large quantity of this preparation is constantly in demand, turtle soup is very rarely prepared in the kitchens of catering establishments. It is more generally obtained ready-made, either fresh or preserved, and as a rule of exceptional quality, from firms whose speciality it is to make it, and who deliver it in excellent condition.

From among the London firms who have deservedly earned a reputation for this soup, “Pécriaux” may be quoted as one whose produce is quite irreproachable.

When a comparatively small quantity of this soup is required, it is best to buy it ready-made; in the event of its being desirable to prepare it oneself, the following recipe will be found the simplest and most practical for the purpose.

=Particulars of the Operation=

_The Slaughtering of the Turtle._—For soup, take a turtle weighing from 120 to 180 lbs., and let it be very fleshy and full of life.

To slaughter it, lay it on its back on a table, with its head hanging over the side. By means of a double butcher’s hook, one spike of which is thrust into the turtle’s lower jaw, while the other suspends an adequately heavy weight, make the animal hold its head back; then, with all possible dispatch, sever the head from the body.

Now immediately hang the body over a receptacle, that the blood may be collected, and leave it thus for one and one-half or two hours.

Then follows the dismemberment:—To begin with, thrust a strong knife between the carapace or upper shell and the plastron or lower shell, exactly where the two meet, and separate the one from the other. The turtle being on its back, cut all the adhering flesh from the plastron, and put the latter aside. Now cut off the flippers; remove the intestines, which throw away, and carefully collect all the green fat. Whereupon cut away the flesh adhering to the carapace; once more remove all fat, and keep both in reserve.

_The Treatment of the Carapace, the Plastron, and the Flippers._—The carapace and plastron, which are the outside bony framework of the turtle, constitute the only portions wherefrom the gelatinous flesh, used as the garnish of the soup, are obtained.

Saw the carapace into six or eight pieces, and the plastron into four.

Put these pieces with the flippers into boiling water or into steam, to _blanch_. Withdraw the flippers as soon as they are sufficiently stiff for their skin to be removed, and leave the pieces of carapace and plastron to _blanch_ for five minutes, in order that they may admit of being scraped. Now cool the pieces of carapace and plastron and the flippers, and put them into a stewpan containing enough water to abundantly cover them. Set to boil; garnish with vegetables, as in the case of an ordinary broth, and add a small quantity of turtle herbs.

Five or six hours should be allowed for the cooking of the carapace and the plastron, but the flippers, which are put to further uses in other culinary preparations, should be withdrawn at the end of five hours.

When the pieces are taken from the cooking-liquor, remove all the flesh from the bones, and cool the former; then trim it carefully, and cut it into little squares of one and one-half inches side. It is these squares together with the green fat (poached in salted water and sliced) which constitute the garnish of the soup.

_The Preparation of Turtle Soup._—There are two modes of procedure, though their respective results are almost identical.

1. Make a broth of the flesh of turtle alone, and then add a very gelatinous beef consommé to it, in pursuance of the method employed when the turtle soup is bought ready-made.

This procedure is practically the best, more particularly if the soup has to be kept some time.

2. Make an ordinary broth of shin of beef, using the same quantity of the latter as of turtle. Also include half a calf’s foot and one-half lb. of calf’s shin per 3 lbs. of the beef. Add the flesh of the turtle, or, in the event of its being thought necessary to clarify, which operation I do not in the least advise, reserve it for that purpose.

The condiments and aromatics being the same for both methods, I shall now describe the procedure for method No. 1.

_The Ingredients of the Soup._—Put into a stewpan of convenient size the flesh of the turtle and its head and bones. Moisten partly with the cooking-liquor of the carapace, and complete the moistening, in the case of a turtle weighing 120 lbs., with enough water to bring the whole to 50 quarts. By this means a soup of about thirty to thirty-five quarts will be obtained at the end of the operation. Add salt in the proportion of one oz. per every five quarts; set to boil; skim, and garnish with twelve carrots, a bunch of leeks (about ten bound with a head of celery), one lb. of parsley stalks, eight onions with ten cloves stuck into them, two lbs. of shallots, and one head of garlic. Set to boil gently for eight hours. An hour before straining the soup, add to the garnish four strips of lemon-peel, a bunch of herbs for turtle, comprising sweet basil, sweet marjoram, sage, rosemary, savory, and thyme, and a bag containing four oz. of coriander and two oz. of peppercorns.

Finally, strain the soup through a napkin; add the pieces of flesh from the carapace and plastron which were put aside for the garnish, and keep it until wanted in specially-made sandstone jars.

_The Serving of the Soup._—When about to serve this soup, heat it; test and rectify its seasoning, and finish it off by means of a port wine glass of very old Madeira to every quart.

Very often a milk punch is served with turtle soup, the recipe being:—

_Milk Punch._—Prepare a syrup from one-half pint of water and three and one-half oz. of sugar, the consistence at the boil being 170° (Baumé’s Hydrometer). Set to infuse in this syrup two orange and two lemon _zests_. Strain at the end of ten minutes, and add one-half pint of rum, one-fifth pint of kirsch, two-thirds pint of milk, and the juice of three oranges and three lemons. Mix thoroughly. Let it stand for three hours; filter, and serve cold.

615—CONSOMMÉ TOSCA

Have ready one quart of chicken consommé thickened with three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through linen.

Also prepare two tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of carrots stewed in butter, the cooking of which is completed in the consommé; ten small quenelles of chicken forcemeat, combined, in the proportion of one-third, with foie gras and chopped truffles; ten small, very crisp _profiterolles_, stuffed with a purée of chicken with pistachio kernels.

Put the quenelles and the _julienne_ into the soup-tureen, pour therein the boiling consommé, and send the _profiterolles_ to the table separately, and very hot.

616—CONSOMMÉ VERT PRÉ

Sprinkle two tablespoonfuls of tapioca into one quart of boiling consommé, and set to cook gently for a quarter of an hour.

Put into the soup-tureen one tablespoonful of asparagus-heads, the same quantity of peas and of French beans cut into lozenges, a few roundels of sorrel leaves, and as many roundels of poached lettuce leaves.

Pour the boiling consommé, with tapioca, over this garnish, and add a large pinch of chervil _pluches_.

617—CONSOMMÉ VILLENEUVE

Have ready one quart of chicken consommé.

Prepare the following garnish:—Two small _blanched_ lettuces, stuffed with chicken forcemeat combined with braised and chopped salted tongue; two _dariole-moulds_ of ordinary royale, and two pancakes coated with a layer of chicken forcemeat, which should be placed in the front of the oven for a few moments with the view of poaching the forcemeat.

Put the cut-up lettuces, the pancakes cut into small, narrow lozenges, and the royale cut into pastils, into the soup-tureen; and, when about to serve, pour the boiling consommé over the whole.

=Special Cold Consommé for Suppers=

_Remarks Relative to the Consommés._—I gave the recipes of these consommés in Part I. of this work (No. 6), and shall now, therefore, limit myself to the following remarks, which are of paramount importance:—

1. These consommés must be perfect in limpidness and quality.

2. The flavour which typifies them should be at once decided and yet not too pronounced.

3. When the flavour is imparted by a wine, the latter should be of the best possible quality. Rather than make use of inferior wines, the presence of which in the soup would tend to depreciate its quality, completely discard wine flavourings.

4. Supper consommés never contain any garnish.

618—CONSOMMÉ A L’ESSENCE DE CAILLES

Use roast quails in the proportion of two for each pint of consommé; the fillets may be reserved for a cold entrée.

619—CONSOMMÉ A L’ESSENCE DE CÉLERI

It is impossible to state exactly how much celery should be used, the quantity being entirely subject to the more or less decided flavour of the vegetables at one’s disposal.

Experience alone can guide the operator in this matter.

620—CONSOMMÉ A L’ESSENCE DE MORILLES

Allow five oz. of small fresh morels, or three oz. of dry ones per quart of the consommé. Pound them and mix them with the clarification.

621—CONSOMMÉ A L’ESSENCE DE TRUFFLE

Use fresh truffles only in this case. Allow two oz. of peelings and trimmings per quart of the consommé; pound them and mix them with the clarification.

622—CONSOMMÉ AU FUMET DE PERDREAU

Proceed as in No. 618; allow one partridge for each quart of the consommé.

623—CONSOMMÉ AUX PAILLETTES D’OR

Take a very superior chicken consommé; add thereto, per quart, a glass of excellent liqueur brandy, and, in the same proportion, one gold-leaf cut into small spangles.

624—CONSOMMÉ AUX PIMENTS DOUX

Add one-half oz. of fresh or preserved capsicum to every quart of the consommé. The product should be pounded and mixed with the clarification.

625—CONSOMMÉ A LA MADRILÈNE

Add four oz. of raw tomato and one oz. of capsicum to the consommé per every quart of the latter. Mix these ingredients with the clarification, and serve as cold as possible.

626—CONSOMMÉ A LA PORTUGAISE

Add to the consommé for every quart one-third pint of raw tomato purée and one-sixth pint of tomato juice. Cook with lid on for twenty minutes, taking care not to let it reach the boil; strain through muslin, pressing lightly the while, and season moderately with cayenne. Set to cool, and serve very cold.

627—CONSOMMÉS AUX VINS

By adding a port wine glass full of the chosen wine to one pint of excellent cold chicken consommé, the following series of consommés may be made:—

Consommé au vin de Chypre. Consommé au vin de Madère. Consommé au vin de Malvoisie. Consommé au vin de Marsala. Consommé au vin de Porto doré. Consommé au vin de Porto rose. Consommé au vin de Samos. Consommé au vin de Zucco.

628—GELEE AUX POMMES D’AMOUR

Proceed as for the “Consommé Portugaise,” and use that variety of small tomatoes which, in Provence, are called “Pommes d’amour.”

629—GELEE DE VOLAILLE A LA NAPOLITAINE

Proceed as for the “Consommé Portugaise,” but finish it with one port wine-glassful of port or old Marsala per quart.

THICK SOUPS

In Part I., Chapter I., of this work I pointed out what thick soups consist of. I likewise touched upon the general rules which should be observed in the preparation of each class of these soups, and showed how most of them could, if necessary, be converted into and served as cullises, purées, bisques, veloutés, or creams. The principles governing these alterations are very simple, and after a moment’s reflection the operator will thoroughly grasp their import. Be this as it may, the reader will find the necessary directions at the end of each recipe that admits of various methods of preparation.

With regard to those recipes which are not followed by any directions of the sort referred to, and which I simply class under the name of Potages, these are unalterable preparations which may only be served in accordance with the directions given. This being clear, the reader will understand that I have refrained from repeating the quantities of butter, cream, thickening ingredients, &c., in each recipe. These particulars having been given in Part I., it will be necessary to refer to that part of the book for them.

630—PURÉE DE CAROTTES, otherwise CRÉCY

Cut one lb. of the red part only of carrots into fine slices; chop one onion, and put the whole into a stewpan with a sprig of thyme and two oz. of butter. Stew gently for twenty minutes, and season with a pinch of salt and sugar. Add the thickening ingredient, _i.e._, either two oz. of rice or five and one-half oz. of bread dice fried in butter; also add one and one-half pints of white consommé, and set to cook very gently.

Rub through tammy, test the consistence, despumate, and add butter when dishing up.

Ordinary garnish: small bread dice fried in butter.

Occasional garnish: poached Japanese pearls in the proportion of two tablespoonfuls per quart of the soup.

This soup may also be prepared as a cream or a velouté à la Nivernaise (see No. 674).

631—PURÉE DE CAROTTES AU TAPIOCA, otherwise VELOURS

Make one pint of carrot purée as above, and poach two tablespoonfuls of tapioca in a pint of white consommé.

When about to serve, and after having buttered the purée of carrots, mix therewith the prepared tapioca.

632—PURÉE DE CÉLERI-RAVE

Finely mince one lb. of celeriac; _blanch_ it; thoroughly drain it, and stew it gently in one oz. of butter. Moisten with one quart of white consommé; add two medium-sized potatoes, minced, and set to cook gently. Rub through tammy; despumate the purée gently for half an hour, and add butter when dishing up.

Garnish: small bread dice fried in butter.

633—PURÉE DE CHOUX DE BRUXELLES, otherwise FLAMANDE

Parboil and drain one lb. of very fresh Brussels sprouts. Set them to stew gently in three oz. of butter; moisten with one pint of white consommé; for the leason add two medium-sized quartered potatoes, and complete the cooking.

Rub the whole through tammy, finish the purée with milk, despumate it in the usual way, and add butter when dishing up. Ga