chapter II

, and woven until the spokes are evenly separated into singles. The weaving will then be about 2½ inches in diameter. Lay the work on a flat surface, bring both weavers above the spokes and insert a colored weaver between the next two spokes to the right, as shown in Figure 8. Weave with the triple weave until about 5¾ inches in diameter. Cut the colored weaver out and insert a natural one in its place. Weave two courses of natural weaving and stop the weavers, as shown in Figure 9, A. Push them down close to the other weaving. (These are left up in the illustration simply to show the method of insertion beside the stakes.)

With the mat still down on a surface, commence to bind off the edge, Fig. 9, B, using close border, B, Fig. 2. The last two spokes are put through the loops left by starting the first two, Fig. 9, as shown in Figure 10. All are pulled tightly to the right, the second row is woven, pulled tightly, and the spokes cut off on the back side close to the border.

Figure 11 shows the under side before the spokes are cut off. Notice the difference in the effect of the weaving on the two sides and reflect upon it. You may want just that effect sometime as a decorative feature. Learn to take advantage of things that only seem to “happen so.”

Mat D is started the same as mat C and woven with the same stitch. Two rows of colored weaving are woven before starting the spirals, and two rows after the spirals are the desired size. The border may be any of the closed borders in Figure 2.

Mat E is made with the thirty-two spoke center, illustrated in Figure 3. The following material is required: Sixteen spokes of No. 6 natural reed 24 inches long and weavers of Nos. 2 and 3 reed. The weavers are of three tones, light (natural), dark (colored), and a middle value (colored). Eight spokes are put through eight spokes, as shown at A, Figure 3. A No. 2 weaver of the neutral shade is bent in the middle and the pairing weave is started, as follows: The loop of the weaver is put through the spokes between groups 1–8, Fig. 3, A, and the pairing weave goes diagonally around from 1–8 to 2–3, 4–5, 6–7, and from between 6–7 one weaver goes across the back of 2–7 and out to the left below the horizontal group, as shown, and the other goes diagonally across the face of 2–7, between 1–8 and up behind group 1, as shown.

[Illustration]

The weavers next go through stages B and C as follows: The upper one is brought diagonally down across the horizontal group of eight and to the left behind the vertical group; the lower one diagonally up, across the face of the vertical group of eight, then down behind the horizontal group and to the left across the face of the vertical group to the position shown at C. The pairing weave now commences around the groups of eight until two rows have been woven, when they separate into groups of fours, and the weaving continues three times around before separating into pairs. It will be found necessary to weave around the pairs four or five times before separating into singles. D shows the separation into fours and the beginning of the separation into pairs. The singles should be sufficiently far apart after five or six rows have been woven around them to allow the triple weaving to be commenced.

Up to this stage the weaving is all done in the hands, and great care must be taken to keep it close together. Every time the weaver is put between two spokes, from the front to the back side, it must be pulled down with the right hand on to the weaving already done, as shown in Figure 12, holding the “tension” thus gained with the middle finger of the left hand until the other weaver is brought across it to the front between the same pair of spokes. The weaver which has just been brought to the front must now be pulled down, as shown in Figure 13. The tension is still held with the middle finger of the left hand until the weaver, shown in Figure 13, is put back between the next pair of spokes to the right.

If a little care is given to this matter of “tension” the weaving can be very closely done. Cut off the No. 2 weaver on the back side and take three dark No. 3 weavers and insert, as shown in Figure 14, holding the ends of the weavers with the left hand until two or three stitches are taken. (This Figure shows natural weavers, in order to more clearly illustrate the starting of the triple weave.) The work is now held down on a flat surface, as shown in Figure 15. Weave two rows of dark and then cut out two of the dark weavers and insert natural ones in their places, weaving eight rows of triple weaving. Cut off all three weavers and start the weaving the other way, inserting the new weavers, as shown in Figure 16. These push down into the weaving, to the right of and beside the spokes, and are brought behind the spokes and out where the others stopped. Do not get the colors mixed. Weave eight rows the other way and then cut the two natural ones out, inserting two dark ones in their places, and weaving two rows to form the outer band. Cut off all three weavers and insert the ends as shown in Figure 9, A. Then start three natural weavers and weave the three outer rows to form the outer band of natural color. Start these as in Figure 16 and end them as in Figure 9, A.

[Illustration]

[Illustration]

Figure 17 shows the mat, about eleven inches in diameter, ready to close the border. Use border C, Fig. 2, starting at the top. This design may be known as the “Indian arrow head” design.

By finishing the edge of mat C, Fig. 1, illustrated in the previous chapter, a mat similar to F, Fig. 1, of this chapter would be the result.

The design is shown on a basket illustrated in Figure 14, chapter I , at A.

At B, Figure 14,