Part 19

The fortress is mentioned in 1619 in Captain Pynnar’s Survey of the Escheated Counties of Ulster in the following manner: “Sir John Stewart hath 3,000 acres called Cashell Hetin and Littergull. Upon this proportion there is built, at Magevlin, a very strong castle, with a flanker at each corner.”

James II. was the guest of Archdeacon Hamilton at Mongevlin during the siege of Derry. From there he sent proposals of surrender to the garrison by his host, which were rejected.

A sad incident occurred in connection with the castle last century. A servant lad being employed by the owner of the time was so terrified by the ghost stories he heard in connection with the building that he left his situation and went home. His friends persuaded him to return, but the matter so preyed upon his mind that he shortly after hanged himself.

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

“The Donegal Highlands.” J. A. H., “Mongevlin Castle,” in _Dublin Penny Journal_.

_MONKSTOWN CASTLE, COUNTY CORK_

Situated at the western extremity of Cork Harbour, in the Barony of Kerricurrihy, is the now ruined castle of Monkstown. The name is derived from the Monastery Legan, belonging to the Benedictine Monks, which was formerly established here, it being a cell of Bath Abbey.

The castle consists of a quadrangular building, flanked by four square towers, having machicolated defences projecting from their angles. The windows are in excellent preservation, being of square Tudor style, divided by strong stone mullions, with horizontal weather cornices. The moulding of the door displays excellent workmanship.

The estate belonged to the Archdeacons, who changed their name to MacOdo, or Cody.

The castle was erected in 1636 by Anastasia Archdeacon, _nee_ Gould, who intended it as a pleasant surprise for her husband, who was a naval officer, and away on a voyage at the time.

Tradition says that it only cost the thrifty lady a groat. At first she found that the builders objected to go to so out-of-the-way a situation, as provisions were difficult to procure. Nothing daunted by such an excuse the lady offered to supply the workmen with provisions at the ordinary retail rate. This she did, but as she purchased her goods at wholesale prices she found when she came to balance her accounts that she was only 4d. out of pocket.

The castle was erected in a twelvemonth and a day, and the date 1636 appears on one of the mantelpieces.

Smith states that the fortress was originally styled Castle Mahon or O’Mahony’s Castle, and in an ancient MS. document (probably now in the possession of Captain Shaw, late of the London Fire Brigade) it is described as being “remade” at the above date, so that it may occupy the site of an older stronghold.

The following interesting extracts are taken from the manuscript alluded to, which has been preserved in the Shaw family, they having at one time leased the castle: “A.D. 1636, Monkstown Castle and court were remade. Reader, you are to observe that it was not John Archdeacon, but his wife, Anastatia Gould, who built the four castles of Monkstown, and the court, in his absence, as he was from home. On his return he did not like the building, and said that a building near a harbour was a building of sedition, which, alas! turned out so.”

“A.D. 1660.--Archdeacon died, as when Cromwell came to Ireland he was deprived of his castle, lands, &c., but not his life, which they did not covet.”

In 1612 the wardship of the son of the late John Archdeacon, of Monkstown, was given to Sir John Jephson Knt., and it was this ward’s wife who afterwards built the castle.

He died in 1660, and both he and his wife are buried in the disused graveyard of Teampul Oen Bryn, west of the castle. Upon his tomb appears a long Latin inscription which, among other things, states that--“Here lies the body of that most noble man, John Archdeacon.”

Colonel Hunks, one of the three deputed to execute the death warrant of Charles I., was granted the lands of Monkstown by the Commonwealth before the demise of John Archdeacon, who lost his estate on account of loyalty to the Stewarts. Hunks sold it to Primate Boyle, brother of the Earl of Cork, for £400.

But it evidently returned to the Archdeacon family upon the Restoration, for it was again confiscated in 1688 on account of the family’s loyalty to King James.

It then passed again into the hands of the Boyles, and through two granddaughters of the Primate it descended to the present owners, the Lords De Vesci and Longford.

In 1700 Dive Downes writes: “Mr. O’Callaghan, a Protestant, lives in Monkstown, in a good square castle with flankers.”

Later in this century it was rented by the Government as a barrack.

Lord De Vesci leased the castle to Bernard Shaw in 1861.

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

Smith, “County and City of Cork.” Gibson, “History of Cork.” J. Windele, “Historical Notices of City of Cork,” &c. Proceedings of Royal Society of Antiquaries. Parliamentary Gazetteer.

_PORTUMNA CASTLE_

There have been three consecutive castles at Portumna, which is situated in the Barony of Longford, Co. Galway. The town stands at the head of Lough Derg, about eleven miles west of Birr. The name signifies “the bank of the oak.”

The territory formerly belonged to the O’Maddens, and was included in the grant to De Burgo 1226.

Soon after this the first castle was erected close to the River Shannon. The ruins were removed some years ago, but its position can still be traced.

The second fortress, which was an imposing castellated building of the Tudor period, was burnt in 1826. The chief apartments were the great hall, handsome state drawing-room, and library--a beautiful long room in the upper storey. They were all completely destroyed, only the walls being left.

Some of the out-offices were fitted up as a residence for the Dowager Countess of Clanricard shortly afterwards.

Since then the Earl of Clanricard has erected a magnificent modern residence in the demesne, but on a different site.

The manor passed, by the marriage of Elizabeth, daughter of William de Burgo, Earl of Ulster, to Lionel, Duke of Clarence, through whom it passed to the Mortimers, and later to the Earls of Clanricard.

In 1582 it was held by Ulick Burke, Earl of Clanricard, to whom Portumna and the earldom were confirmed, as his brother John disputed his right.

In 1608 it was granted to the Earl, with other houses, to be held by knight’s service _in capite_.

The Earl of Strafford held a council in the castle in 1634 to establish the King’s title in Connaught. The jury, however, negatived the matter, whereupon the Earl arrested them and the sheriff, and sent them prisoners to Dublin.

In 1641, Ulic, 5th Earl of Clanricard, was at Portumna upon the breaking out of hostilities. He fortified the castle and proceeded to Galway, of which city he was governor. He used every effort to maintain peace, and in 1650 was appointed Lord Deputy in place of Ormond. At this time he made Portumna his chief place of residence.

In 1659 General Ludlow laid siege to the fortress.

In the struggle between James and William it was garrisoned for James, but surrendered to Brigadier-General Eppinger, who, with one thousand two hundred horse and dragoons, arrived to reduce it.

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

Hardiman, “History of Galway.” State Papers. Lewis, “Topographical Dictionary of Ireland.” Parliamentary Gazetteer. Carew MSS. MS. Ordnance Survey.

_ROSCOMMON CASTLE_

In the Barony of South Ballintobber, County Roscommon, seventy-five miles west-by-north of Dublin, stands the now ruined fortress of Roscommon. Joyce says the name signifies “Coman’s wood,” from St. Comas, who founded a monastery there about the year 746, but O’Donovan traces its derivation from “crooked stick.”

The plan of the castle consists of a quadrangular space enclosed by curtain walls flanked at the angles by towers rounded on the outside. The whole measures about 223 feet in length and 173 in breadth. On the east side the entrance, under a pointed arch, was also protected by two towers, which were connected by a rectangular building inside that probably contained the state rooms.

The lower storeys of the towers were vaulted, although some of them are now broken. The upper floors have larger windows, and also the remains of fireplaces. Most of the windows contain four lights, but some have Elizabethan mullions.

The north-west tower has a winding stair, which leads to the top of the curtain wall. On the western side of the stronghold is a small rectangular tower, which contained a little entrance.

There is now no trace of the moat, but a few remains of earth outworks are visible.

On the east is a long enclosure surrounded by walls and flanked by bastions, which is known as the orchard, although at present it contains no trees.

The north and south walls of the castle, which had been broken down, have been again raised for farming purposes. The inside of the walls exhibit traces of blasting. The castle was built of blue limestone, and much of the stone has been used elsewhere.

Weld considers it likely that the fortress was built from an English plan, and remarks on the apparent absence of patching, it all seeming to date from the same period.

Robert d’Ufford, Lord Justice of Ireland, began to erect the castle in 1268, while Hugh, King of Connaught, was too ill to prevent such encroachment on his territory. Some authorities state a fortress existed here prior to this time. During 1270-72 there are numerous accounts of payments for building and fortifying the stronghold.

In 1275-76 is an entry of payment to Brother Maurice, Bishop of Elphin, for the site that had been used, and which appears to have been Church property.

The castle is said to have been razed by O’Conor in 1272, but the word “broken” used in the Book of Howth seems to be nearer the truth, as four years later the Irish again seized it by scaling ladders and overthrew the English garrison.

In Weld’s Statistical Survey he gives an amusing account of the contradictions which obscure the early history of the stronghold, and from which it appears impossible to gather the true facts at this distant period.

In 1277 Sir Robert d’Ufford was again Lord Juctice, and with Thomas de Clare, Maurice Fitz-Maurice and all their forces was hemmed in by the Irish in the Slievebawn Mountains. They were only released on the condition that Roscommon Castle was surrendered to the O’Conors.

It is also chronicled that Hugh O’Conor destroyed it in this year and that it was rebuilt by Maurice Fitz-Maurice.

At any rate it seems again to have been in English possession in 1282-83, as there are entries regarding payment for its fortifications, and a grant to the Prior and Convent of St. Coman of a right to water their animals for ever at the lake under the castle. This sheet of water, which was called Loch-na-nean, or “the lake of birds,” has now entirely disappeared.

The names of numerous constables of the castle are mentioned in the State Documents.

In 1290 the castle was garrisoned by Welshmen, and the townspeople were in great distress because of the constables and bailiffs preying upon them. The King issued an order that nothing must be taken without consent and payment.

There was a long trial in 1292 of William de Prene, a carpenter in charge of works at Roscommon Castle, who was accused of various frauds in connection with his contract.

A very interesting account of repairs is recorded in 1304 which gives a fair idea of the extent of the fortress. An artilleryman was paid for repairing war engines, and the well was enclosed by a wall 3 feet thick. It was 5 feet across and 32 feet deep, with a wooden cover. Three drawbridges and two portcullisses are also mentioned. The postern was closed with masonry 7 feet thick. The step of the hall repaired, and the tower near it vaulted with two arches. Also St. Bridget’s well was drained into the lake.

Somewhere about this time Felim O’Conor is said to have laid low the castle, while in 1341 his son Hugh was taken prisoner by the King of Connaught and imprisoned in the stronghold, but was released for a ransom the following year.

Roderic O’Conor occupied the castle in 1375.

While in possession of the O’Conors it was a constant source of dispute between O’Conor Don and O’Conor Roe. In 1409, being in the former’s possession, it was besieged by the latter, but the garrison was relieved by Brian O’Conor Sligo, who managed to get provisions into the fortress.

Rory O’Conor died there in 1453. Tadhg O’Conor was treacherously killed by his own people in 1476, and they took the castle of Roscommon, but did not keep it long.

In 1499 the Earl of Kildare led his forces into Connaught, dislodged O’Conor Roe and installed O’Conor Don. In 1512 the Earl of Kildare again took the fortress, and this time he garrisoned it with his own warders. It, however, immediately reverted to the O’Conors, and remained with them until 1566, when it was taken for Queen Elizabeth.

It had been granted to M’William Bourke in 1544, but as he would have had to drive out the occupiers, it is not to be wondered at that he never took possession.

It was restored by the O’Conor Don, and Sir Thomas L’Estrange made constable in 1569. The O’Conor Roe, having a spite against the constable, attacked and burned the castle in 1573, and L’Estrange claimed compensation to the amount of £1,000.

Sir Henry Sydney lodged a night in the castle in 1576, and complained of having no cheer. The O’Conor Don visited him at this time.

Sir Nicholas Maltbie, to whom the castle was leased in 1577, asked to be made Seneschal of Roscommon in 1580 as compensation for rebuilding the fortress.

Captain Brabazon, Governor of Connaught, summoned a meeting of the chiefs in the castle in 1582. It was held in the “Tower of the Narrow Passages,” and the joistings giving way the whole meeting, including the Governor, was precipitated to the bottom. Chief O’Flanagan died from the fall.

After this the English constable was murdered, and Sir Henry Sydney left a garrison in the castle.

Sir Nicholas Malbie died in 1584, and the castle remained in his family’s possession for some years afterwards. In 1609 Lady Sydley, widow of Henry Malby, Esq., asked allowance for the repairs of the castles of Roscommon and Longford, both of which she rented from the Crown. Roscommon had been ruined by various garrisons which had been placed there by Sir John Norris and others.

One of the charges against the northern Earls was their intention to seize Roscommon Castle amongst others.

The garrison made a brave defence against the Irish in 1642. The castle was chiefly defended by Scotch warders. It is quaintly noted that at the beginning of these “commotions” it had belonged to Lord Grandesson.

Three years later General Preston arrived and laid siege to it, opening fire on both town and castle.

On the ninth day of the siege the garrison offered to make honourable terms, which were accepted. The same day the besieging party had a sharp encounter with a relieving force, who were, however, defeated, and the castle surrendered. Captain Leicester was left in command.

It remained in the possession of the Irish forces until 1652, when it was delivered on articles to Commissary-General Reynolds, of the Parliamentary troops, by Captain Daly.

It is probable that it was demolished at this time. Tradition states it was burned by fugitive Irish after the battle of Aughrim, and some blackened joists are pointed out in corroboration.

It is now leased to a farmer by the Earl of Essex.

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.

Weld, “Statistical Survey of County Roscommon.” O’Conor Don, “O’Conors of Connaught.” Meehan, “Irish Franciscan Monasteries.” Joyce, “Irish Names of Places.” State Documents. State Papers. Carew MSS., including Hook of Howth. Parliamentary Gazetteer. MS. Ordnance Survey. Murphy, “The Castle of Roscommon,” in _Journal of Royal Society of Antiquaries, Ireland_.

[Illustration: ROSS CASTLE.]

_ROSS CASTLE_

“Its embers smouldering here and there, Unfed, the civil war-flame dies; But still defiant on the air, O’er Rosse the green flag proudly flies.

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“‘Till Birnam wood meets Dunsinane,’ Macbeth before no foe shall quail, And Rosse may all assaults disdain, ’Till on Lough Lein strange ship shall sail.’” A. B. ROWAN.

This castle is situated on what is now known as the Island of Ross, on the east shore of Lough Lene, or the Lower Lake of Killarney, about a mile and three-quarters south of the town.

The island has been artificially formed by cutting across the peninsula or _ros_ on which the fortress is built and from which it takes its name.

The channel, which is flooded by the waters of the lake, is crossed by a bridge, although it is usually dry during the summer months.

This bridge was formerly protected by a guard house and gates, which were closed every night, sentinels being posted at the entrance when the castle was garrisoned in later times.

The present ruins consist of a keep, with the remains of the surrounding bawn wall, which was flanked by semicircular towers at the corners. A spiral stone stair leads to the top of the keep, with doorways opening at the various floors.

The fortress is based on a limestone rock, and sustained on the land side by a buttress of masonry.

The peninsula contains 158 acres, and copper mines were opened on it in 1804, which were worked for four years, in which time £80,000 worth of ore was extracted. Water getting in stopped further work. It was clearly proved that the mines had been worked many centuries before, and a number of stone implements, locally called “Danes’ hammers,” have been found on the island.

The castle is supposed to have been built towards the close of the fourteenth century by the family of O’Donoghue-Ross, who added the appellation of their home to distinguish them from the family of O’Donoghue-More.

A modern barrack capable of holding some two hundred men and officers was erected against the keep, but when it ceased to be used Lord Kenmare had the unsightly erection removed.

There is a legend regarding a great and wise Prince O’Donoghue who possessed the secret of eternal youth, and under whose rule the land prospered greatly. It is related how that during a splendid feast at Ross Castle he rose up amongst the company and made a prophetic oration, recounting accurately all that the future years would bring. In the midst of speaking he walked over to a window (which is still shown) and through it he passed out over the lake. Upon nearing the centre he turned round and waved his hand in farewell to those behind, and, the waters opening, he disappeared beneath them.

On May morning he is said to rise from his watery grave and ride over the lake on a white steed, surrounded by beautiful women and youths. His appearance is looked upon as a sign of a bountiful harvest.

It is also related how a young maiden imagining herself in love with the phantom prince, cast herself into the lake on a May morning and was drowned.

The O’Donoghues were succeeded at Ross by the M’Carthy Mores, through whom the castle passed in 1588 to Sir Valentine Browne, ancestor to the present house of Kenmare.

In 1651 Lord Muskerry was guardian to his nephew Sir Valentine Browne, who was then a minor of about twelve years old. Hence it was that after his defeat by the Parliamentary forces at Knockniclashy on the 5th of July he retired with his army, numbering some one thousand five hundred men, to Ross.

Ludlow, accompanied by Lord Broghill and Sir Hardress Waller, followed with four thousand horse and two thousand foot.

Lord Muskerry was the last Royalist commander in arms, and his submission was a matter of great moment.

Ludlow reports that the castle was only accessible by the causeway which the besieged had fortified, being otherwise surrounded by water and bog.

Finding that this made the reduction of the fortress a matter of difficulty, and probably hearing of the tradition which stated Ross Castle could not fall until a ship should sail on the lake, Ludlow asked for a small fleet of boats to be prepared for transport at Kinsale.

In the meantime he found that the besieged were obtaining supplies through the thick woods surrounding the island. A force of two thousand foot were, therefore, despatched to clear the thickets. Some of the enemy were killed, some taken prisoners, and the rest saved themselves “by their good footmanship.”

The rest of Ludlow’s forces were employed in fortifying the peninsular so that a few men could keep the besieged in, while a large company was despatched to Killorgan, on Castlemain Bay, to receive the boats and supplies.

The preparation for the expedition was undertaken by the Rev. Dr. Jones, and the command was given to Captain Chudleigh.

The vessels were sent in pieces, so that the workmen who accompanied them could put them together in a few days. Two pinnaces carrying ordnance, and capable of holding fifty (or Ludlow says a hundred and fifty) men, were forwarded so as to be ready for use in two days. Also five or six boats to hold fifty men each, and material to make more.

Great has been the controversy as to what route was followed in conveying these vessels to Killarney. The River Laune, which drains the lakes, is not navigable above the place where Ludlow’s force was to receive the goods.

Tradition asserts that they were conveyed by the mountain road, and in Ware’s Annals it is recorded that a ship was “carried over the mountains.” On the other hand, Smith distinctly says they were “brought up by the River Lane, by strength of men’s hands.” He also relates how a recent sexton of Swords, called Hopkins (who had died at the age of 115), had been one of those who “assisted in drawing the above-mentioned vessel into the lake.” It is, therefore, likely that Smith’s informant on the matter had received the correct impression from an eye witness.

On Captain Chudleigh’s tomb at St. Multon’s, Kinsale, the fact is recorded of his having constructed a ship to sail on land for the reduction of Ross.

Some naval men are said to have drawn a vessel up the Laune in later years.

It is on the whole most likely that the hulls of the pinnaces were brought up by the river bed, while the lighter craft were conveyed by road. At any rate the transport and preparation occupied only the short period of four days, at the end of which time the terrified garrison perceived a warship being rowed upon the lake.

It is not unlikely that pressure was put on Lord Muskerry by his superstitious garrison, for no sooner had the vessel appeared than he notified to Ludlow that he was willing to treat.

Commissioners were appointed on both sides, and after a fortnight spent in debating the terms the treaty of Ross was signed. Lord Muskerry’s son and Sir Daniel O’Brien were delivered as hostages.

Fair terms were granted to the Royalist Army, and five thousand horse and foot laid down their arms.

For a long time Ross Castle gave rank and emolument to a governor. One of these owed his position to the confusion of names between New Ross, County Wexford, and the Ross of Killarney, for having rendered valuable service at the former during the rebellion of 1798, the governorship of the latter becoming vacant he was at once appointed.

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED.