Part 2

Cut corn from the cob until you have at least a pint; cover it with a quart of sweet milk. Let it boil half an hour, add a teaspoonful of salt, skim it carefully, then throw into it a piece of butter the size of a hen’s-egg and pepper to suit your taste. Serve with rolls or toasted bread.

OYSTER SOUP. DELICATE

Take the oysters from their liquor. To every quart of the liquor add a pint of water or milk (milk is preferable); season with salt, pepper, butter, and toasted bread-crumbs that have been toasted and pounded. When this has boiled, put in a quart of oysters to two quarts of liquor. Let all boil a few minutes, and serve.

ANOTHER OYSTER SOUP. VERY STRENGTHENING

Take a knuckle of veal or a piece of lamb; allow a quart of water and a teaspoonful of salt to each pound; set it over the fire, let it come to a boil, skim it well and then set it back on the stove. Let it simmer for two hours. This will form a fine, strong, nourishing stock for the soup. Take out the meat, and skim the stock clear; put in half a pound of rolled crackers and a quart of nice oysters. Let it boil up, and finish by putting in a large tablespoonful of butter, and pepper and salt to taste. Macaroni or vermicelli can be substituted for the crackers, if preferred.

TURTLE SOUP FOR A LARGE COMPANY, NO. 1

Cut the head off the turtle the day before you dress it, and drain the blood thoroughly from the body. Then cut it up in the following manner: Divide the back, belly, head and fins from the intestines and lean parts. Be careful not to cut the gall bag. Scald in boiling water to remove the skin and shell. Cut up in neat pieces and throw into cold water. Boil the back and belly in a little water long enough to extract the bones easily. If for a large company a leg of veal will also be required, and a slice of ham, which must be stewed with the lean parts till well browned; then add boiling water, and the liquor and bones of the boiled turtle. Season with sliced lemon, whole pepper, a bunch of parsley, two leeks sliced, and salt to taste. Let this all boil slowly for four hours then strain. Add the pieces of back, belly, head and fins (take the bones from the fins), pour in half a pint of Madeira wine and a quarter of a pound of good sweet butter, with a tablespoonful of flour worked in it; also, a lemon sliced thin. Let it boil gently for two hours, then serve.

In cutting up the turtle great care should be taken of the fat, which should be separated, cut up neatly, and stewed till tender in a little of the liquor, and put into the tureen when ready to serve. Garnish with the eggs, if any; if not, use hard-boiled eggs of fowls.

TURTLE SOUP NO. 2

Put on, at an early hour in the morning, eight pounds of beef or veal, one pound of ham or bacon, eight onions, with pepper, salt, and sweet herbs to taste. Make a rich soup of this, and add to it the liquor of a boiled turtle; season very high with wine, spice, cayenne, and catsup. Put in the flesh of the turtle, prepared as in recipe No. 1--do not use the eyes or tongue. Let this boil up till tender, and serve with force-meat balls in tureen. Curry powder will give a higher flavor to soups than spice.

PLAIN MOCK-TURTLE SOUP

Boil a calf’s-head until very tender; take out the head, strain the liquor, and skim off the fat when cold, and keep till following day. Cut up the meat of the head and brain, and add to the liquor; place over the fire, after seasoning to taste with pepper, salt, mace, cloves, sweet herbs, and onions. Let it stew an hour, then add a tumbler of white wine, and it is ready for the force-meat balls. For the balls, chop a pound of lean veal with half a pound of salt pork; add the brains of the calf’s-head, seasoned with pepper, salt, mace, cloves, sweet herbs, or curry powder. Make into balls the size of the yolk of an egg; boil part in the soup, fry the rest for a separate dish.

MOCK-TURTLE SOUP NO. 2

Put into a pot a knuckle of veal, two calf’s feet, two onions, a few cloves, pepper, allspice, mace and sweet herbs; cover them with water; tie a thick paper over the pot, or cover it close. Let it stew four hours. Remove from the fire and let it cool. When cold take off the fat very nicely, cut the meat and feet into bits an inch square, remove the bones and coarse parts; then place over the fire again to warm. Add a large spoonful of walnut catsup, one of mushroom catsup, a little mushroom powder, or a few mushrooms, and the jelly of the meat. When hot, serve with hard eggs, forcemeat balls, and the juice of one lemon.

MOCK-TURTLE SOUP. EXCELLENT, NO. 3

Clean a calf’s _head_ nicely, split it and take out the brains; put the head into considerably more water than will cover it. Let it boil gently, and skim it carefully; when very tender take it out and cut in small pieces. Put into the boiling soup three pounds of beef and a knuckle of veal with all the bones broken fine. Add to this four or five onions, a carrot and turnip sliced, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Let it boil gently for three hours. Parboil the tongue and brains of the calf’s head, and add them when the soup is nearly done. Let it cool and take off the fat.

_To finish it for the table_, melt a quarter of a pound of nice fresh butter, add a handful of flour and stir over the fire till the butter and flour are brown; add to this a little of the soup, a few sprigs of parsley and sweet basil; boil it for fifteen minutes and add it to the soup, together with two tablespoonfuls of catsup, the juice of a lemon, and salt to taste. It is usual to add a pint of sherry. When dished in the tureen, put in two dozen egg balls.

EGG BALLS FOR MOCK-TURTLE SOUP

Make a paste of the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs and the white of two raw ones; season with salt and cayenne pepper. Take bits of the paste the size of small marbles, run them in flour and roll into balls; fry carefully in butter and drop into the soup.

OX-TAIL SOUP

Cut each joint of two ox-tails with a meat-saw, steep them in water for two hours; then place them in a stew-pan with three carrots, three turnips, three onions, two heads of celery, four cloves, and a blade of mace.

Fill up the stew-pan from the boiling stock-pot; boil this over a slow fire until done and the joints quite tender. Take them out, cool them, and clarify the broth. Strain this into a soup-pot, put with it the pieces of ox-tail, some olive shaped pieces of carrot and turnip which have been boiled in a little of the broth; add to this when it has boiled half an hour a small lump of sugar and a little red pepper. This soup is excellent, and may be served with any kind of vegetables strained in it, such as puree of peas, carrots, turnips, or celery.

RABBIT SOUP

Cut one or two rabbits into joints; lay them for an hour in cold water; dry and fry them in butter until they are half done; place the meat in a saucepan with four or five onions and a head of celery cut small; add to these three parts of cold water and a cup of peas, either green or dry; season with pepper and salt, then strain and serve it. Some like it unstrained.

REMARKS ON GOMBO OF OKRA OR FILEE

This is a most excellent form of soup, and is an economical way of using up the remains of any cold roasted chicken, turkey, game, or other meats. Cut up and season the chicken, meat, or other material to make the soup; fry to a light brown in a pot, and add boiling water in proportion to your meat. Two pounds of meat or chicken (bones and all), with a half pound of ham, or less of breakfast-bacon, will flavor a gallon of soup, which, when boiled down, will make gombo for six people. When the boiling water is added to the meat, let it simmer for at least two hours. Take the large bones from the pot, and add okra or a preparation of dried and pounded sassafras leaves, called filee. This makes the difference in gombo. For gombo for six people use one quart of sliced okra; if filee be used, put in a coffeecupful. Either gives the smoothness so desirable in this soup. Oysters, crabs, and shrimp may be added when in season, as all improve the gombo. Never strain gombo. Add green corn, tomatoes, etc., etc., if desired. Serve gombo with plain-boiled rice.

GOMBO WITH CRABS, OR SHRIMP

To a pound of beef add half a pound knuckle of ham; chop up both in inch pieces and fry them brown in two tablespoonfuls of boiling lard; add to them four large crabs cut up, or a pound of peeled shrimps, or both if desired; cut into this four dozen small okra pods, one large onion, a little red pepper, and salt to taste. Let all simmer on a slow fire for about twenty minutes; then fill up with warm water, enough to cover the contents two inches deep. Let this boil for two hours. If it becomes too thick, add as much water as required. If preferred a chicken can be used instead of the beef.

SIMPLE OKRA GOMBO

Chop a pound of beef and half a pound of veal brisket into squares an inch thick; slice three dozen okra pods, one onion, a pod of red pepper, and fry all together. When brown pour in half a gallon of water; add more as it boils away. Serve with rice as usual.

OYSTER GOMBO WITH FILEE, NO. 1

Take a grown chicken, fifty oysters, and a half-pound of ham to flavor the gombo. Cut up two onions fine, fry them in lard and thicken the gravy with flour; a teaspoonful will be enough. Cut up the chicken and ham, and put them to fry with the onions. Let all cook gently till brown, then put in a pint of boiling water and boil the chicken until it is almost in pieces. Half-an-hour before dinner pour in the oysters and their liquor. When ready for the table take a large spoonful of fresh powdered sassafras leaves or filee, wet it with a little of the soup, and stir it into the soup. If not thick or ropy enough, stir in another spoonful. Do not let the soup boil after the filee is put in, but remove it from the fire, or serve it immediately.

GOMBO FILEE WITH OYSTERS, NO. 2

Fry a tablespoonful of flour in a tablespoonful of lard. Let it brown slowly so as not to scorch. Boil the liquor of two quarts of oysters, and when it is boiling throw in a cupful of cut leeks or onions, a large slice of ham, some parsley, and stir in the browned flour. Let this cook fifteen minutes; then pour in two quarts of oysters. Let them boil a few minutes, season with salt and pepper; take out the parsley and sift in half a cup of dried and pounded fresh filee; if not fresh more will be required.

CHICKEN GOMBO WITH OYSTERS

Take a young chicken, or the half of a grown one; cut it up, roll it in salt, pepper and flour, and fry it a nice brown, using lard or drippings, as if for fricassee. Cut up a quart of fresh green okras, and take out the chicken and fry the okra in the same lard. When well browned return the chicken to the pot and boil. Add to it a large slice of ham; a quarter of a pound will be about right for this gombo. Pour onto the chicken, ham and okra, half a gallon of boiling water, and let it boil down to three pints. Ten minutes before serving pour into the boiling soup two dozen fine oysters with half a pint of their liquor. Let it come to a good boil, and serve it with well-boiled rice.

MAIGRE OYSTER GOMBO

Take 100 oysters with their juice, and one large onion; slice the onion into hot lard and fry it brown, adding when brown a tablespoonful of flour and red pepper. When thick enough pour in the oysters. Boil together twenty minutes. Stir in a large spoonful of butter and one or two tablespoonfuls of filee, then take the soup from the fire and serve with rice.

MAIGRE SHRIMP GOMBO FOR LENT

Boil a pint of shrimps in a quart of water; give them only one boil up; then set them to drain and cool, reserving the water they were boiled in. Chop up three dozen okra pods, two onions, a pod of pepper, and a little parsley, and fry them brown in a little lard or butter; add to the okra the shrimps and the strained water in which they were boiled. Let all boil for an hour, and season with salt and pepper to taste. When shrimp and crabs can not be procured, half a pound of dry codfish, soaked an hour or two, and chopped fine, will do very well. All gombo should be thickened with a little flour--browned if preferred--and stirred in just before adding the water; then boil an hour.

CRAB GOMBO, WITH OKRA

Take six large crabs, throw them in cold water for a few moments. When cool cut off the limbs--while they are living if possible, as this renders them more delicate; clean them, and put them to fry, shells and all, in a pot containing a cup of lard, a cup of cut onions, a small bunch of parsley, and two tablespoonfuls of browned flour. Let them cook about fifteen minutes, and then pour on them two pints of boiling water and a quart of sliced okra; let it all stew gently for half an hour, and add a slice of lean ham and a quart of good veal or beef stock (made by boiling two pounds of veal or beef in two quarts of water until reduced to a quart); season with a teaspoonful of salt, and same of black and red pepper, and let all boil for half an hour. This soup can be made in the oyster season by putting in a quart of oysters and two quarts of their liquor instead of the boiled beef stock.

CRAYFISH BISQUE. A CREOLE DISH

Parboil the fish, pick out the meat, and mince or pound it in a mortar until very fine; it will require about fifty crayfish. Add to the fish one-third the quantity of bread soaked in milk, and a quarter of a pound of butter, also salt to taste, a bunch of thyme, two leaves of sage, a small piece of garlic and a chopped onion. Mix all well and cook ten minutes, stirring all the time to keep it from growing hard. Clean the heads of the fish, throw them in strong salt and water for a few minutes and then drain them. Fill each one with the above stuffing, flour them, and fry a light brown. Set a clean stewpan over a slow fire, put into it three spoonfuls of lard or butter, a slice of ham or bacon, two onions chopped fine; dredge over it enough flour to absorb the grease, then add a pint and a half of boiling water, or better still, plain beef stock. Season this with a bunch of thyme, a bay leaf, and salt and pepper to taste. Let it cook slowly for half an hour, then put the heads of the crayfish in and let them boil fifteen minutes. Serve rice with it.

FISH

FRICASSEE OF FISH

All large fish make nice fricassee. Cut the fish into slices and lay it in a gravy made of fried onions, parsley, tomatoes and a little garlic; fry in butter and serve. Add catsup if liked.

TO FRY FISH

The fat from bacon, or salt pork, is much nicer to fry fish in, than lard. After the fish is cleaned, wash it and wipe it dry, and let it lie on a cloth till all the moisture is absorbed; then roll it in flour. No salt is required if fried in bacon or pork fat. There must be fat enough to float the fish or they will not fry nicely, but instead soak fat and be soft to the touch.

TO STUFF AND BAKE FISH

Choose any of the many dressings in this book. Take either plain bread stuffing, veal stuffing, or force-meat; fill the fish and sew it up; put a teacup of water in the baking pan, with a spoonful of butter and bake, according to the size of the fish, from thirty minutes to an hour. Season with pepper and salt and bake brown.

CROAKERS AND MULLETS FRIED

Have them perfectly cleaned; trim the fins, wipe the fish with a clean cloth, salt and pepper each one, and roll it in flour or fine corn meal, and then drop it into a pot of boiling lard and bacon grease mixed. When brown, pile up on a hot dish and serve, with any desired sauce or catsup.

FILLETS OR SLICED FISH, FRIED

When the fish is too large to fry whole, cut into slices and place them in a crock; season with pepper, salt, oil, lemon juice, and chopped parsley. Turn the fish in this mixture so that all parts may become well saturated with the seasoning. When wanted, drain, wipe dry and dip each piece separately in flour; drop into boiling lard; take it up as it browns, and ornament the dish with a border of fried parsley. Send to table with sauce to suit the taste.

TROUT STUFFED AND BAKED

Stuff one or more fish, with any stuffing desired; score them well and put in a buttered pan to bake; season with pepper, salt and chopped parsley, moisten them with a little essence of mushrooms or catsup and butter. Baste every five minutes until they are done; remove the fish to a hot dish. Throw a little wine or vinegar into the pan, and stir it to detach the crust from the pan; boil this sauce down, add a little more butter and pour over the fish. Mushrooms are an improvement to the sauce; but if not convenient, tomato sauce will answer.

TROUT A LA VENITIENNE

After well cleaning your trout, make slashes in the back, and insert butter rolled in parsley, lemon, thyme, basil, chives all minced very fine; pour some salad oil over it, and let it lie for half an hour; cover it with bread crumbs and chopped sweet herbs, boil it over a clear fire which is not too quick, and serve it with sauce No. 13.

BROILED SPANISH MACKEREL

Split the mackerel down the back; season with pepper and salt, rub it over with oil, place it on a gridiron over a moderate fire and, when browned on one side, turn. If it is a very large fish, divide it and broil one half at a time. When done, place it on a dish, and put butter, parsley and lemon juice over it. Serve with sauce No. 13.

BROILED FLOUNDER

This is cooked just as the Spanish mackerel in the preceding recipe; and may be sent to table with the same sauce, or sauce a l’aurore No. 14.

FLOUNDERS AND MULLETS FRIED

These fish are very fine when fresh from the waters of Lake Pontchartrain. Flounder is better broiled, but still is very nice fried. Clean and dry the fish. Do not cut them in pieces, but score them across if very large. Have lard or bacon fat very hot; roll the fish in flour and drop into the boiling fat. Let them cook until brown, and serve with sauce No. 15.

PLAIN BOILED RED FISH OR RED SNAPPER

Wash the fish; when cleaned, wipe it dry and rub it over with lemon juice and salt. Put it in a fish kettle or other vessel to boil, cover it with soft water and throw in a handful of salt. As soon as it begins to boil, skim it and let it simmer; hard boiling breaks the flesh before it is cooked thoroughly. When done, lift it out of the water with a drainer, slip it carefully on a dish and send to table with sauces No. 13 and No. 3.

RED-FISH A LA PROVENCALE

Have properly cleaned a medium sized fish; score it deep then put in a large dish and cover with a pickle or marinade made of two sliced carrots, two onions, some parsley and bay-leaves, three cloves of garlic, pepper and salt, the juice of two lemons, and a gill of salad oil. When thoroughly flavored, remove the fish from the marinade and bake three-quarters of an hour, basting frequently with wine and butter. When done, put it on a platter and keep hot. Add half a bottle of wine and some cayenne pepper to the marinade; stew well and strain over the fish. Garnish with cut lemon, sprigs of parsley and capers.

BAKED AND STEWED CODFISH

Scald for ten minutes some soaked codfish, it should soak all night; then scrape it white, pick it in flakes, and put it in a stewpan with a tablespoonful of nice butter worked into as much flour, and milk enough to moisten it. Let it stew gently ten minutes; add pepper to taste, and serve hot. Slice hard-boiled eggs over it, and sprigs of parsley around the dish.

If the fish is to be baked you must put it on to scald, as above, after soaking all night; you must then put on double as much Irish potatoes as the quantity of codfish. Boil them, mash them, and then pick up the codfish fine, seasoning it with butter and pepper; moisten it with two beaten eggs, a little chopped onion, and milk if necessary. Make it all into a large soft pat, or cake, smooth it with a knife blade and put it in the stove to be browned lightly.

CODFISH CAKES

Soak the codfish all night, then scald for ten minutes; put to it an equal quantity of potatoes boiled and mashed; moisten it with beaten eggs, a bit of butter and a little pepper; form it into round cakes, about half an inch thick, roll them each one in flour, and fry in hot lard until they are a delicate brown. The lard must be boiling, and the cakes fried gently.

COD AU BEURRE ROUX

Cod; a little browned butter; a little flour; sugar; one onion; tablespoonful of vinegar.

For cod au beurre roux, boil a piece of cod and separate it into flakes; brown some butter, dredge in a little flour, and a little sugar in powder, and in this fry some slices of onion a fine brown; throw in the vinegar, boil it up, pour over the fish, and serve it with crisp parsley.

OYSTER STUFFING FOR TURKEY