Chapter 28 of 29 · 3997 words · ~20 min read

Part 28

Squalls increasing in size and frequency. Riding well.... Winds very strong.... Heavy confused seas.

By the next day No. 2 had passed in front of us, about a hundred miles ahead, and the weather was rapidly improving. Winds at the center of the typhoon were force 12—hurricane. Glad we weren’t in them—we had our hands quite full enough where we were.

Incidentally, leaving the mizzen up was a mistake—it was blown to ribbons, and this isn’t a figure of speech; nothing was left of it but thin strips of frayed canvas, cracking like whips in the wind.

That didn’t bother us. We were on the home stretch now and could almost smell the land. We broke out our _topsail_—Nick’s idea—rigged it upside down in place of the mizzen, and carried on. Only two thirds of the original area, and it looked rather lubberly, but the yacht club critics don’t get this far out, so it passed without comment. The important thing was, it worked.

One day after the typhoon had passed the wind was down to “light variables, with no visible progress.” This is what keeps sailing from being boring.

The next day we had a visitor: “Large whale has been playing tag with us for last half hour, swimming along just in front of our course. Saw him 40–50 times.”

And on June 8, forty-three days out, we had our last “incident”:

0955. Buzzed 3 times by U. S. Navy plane. Very low and close, once knocking wind out of our sails.

No comment. Wait, I do have a comment. You have been at sea in a small boat for over six weeks. During that time you have seen nothing but the sea and the sky. Suddenly you hear a distant ominous roar, mounting in volume. You look aft, and see a dark projectile overtaking you at fantastic speed. It roars past you in a horrible crescendo of sound, seeming to miss the mainmast by inches. The sails flap in the turbulence caused by the sudden passing. The crew, startled out of their somnolence, rush on deck. Before you can explain, they see for themselves: again the plane dives at you, this time from forward. Almost touching the waves, it passes just to starboard, lower than the mast, banks sharply, and returns for a third pass, the closest of all. Then it rises and rapidly dwindles to a speck and disappears to the northwest. You have just been “buzzed” and your peaceful voyage is over. You are back among men.

That afternoon we sighted land to starboard, long, low, and hazy. That night we saw Nojima light, and by the next day we had felt our way through a dense fog into Yokohama harbor. The weather reports were warning of the imminent arrival of Typhoon No. 3. We decided to ride this one out at anchor.

The fog lifted as we entered the harbor and we were met by a boatload of Japanese reporters, so many we could hardly get them all on board. We stopped near the outer breakwater in order to give them pictures and stories. I was still ruffled by the buzzing incident, but I said nothing about it, knowing it might be played up disproportionately. However, later I wrote the navy in Yokosuka, asking them what gave with buzzing small ships like that. Of course, I got no answer, but several months later, while talking to an ex-navy man, he told me that it was “standard procedure” to use small fishing boats as targets for buzzing practice. This time definitely No Comment!

Our stay in Yokohama was extended one week beyond our planned schedule, for reasons which I will merely enumerate: (a) Typhoon No. 3. (b) Typhoon No. 4, which we rode out at an anchorage near the yacht club (we drew too much water to go into the club anchorage). For thirty-six hours we couldn’t get off the boat. (c) A berth up the river, where we promptly grounded and lay on our side for six hours at low tide. (d) A new berth at Dock 9, under construction, complete with dynamite blasts at irregular and nerve-shattering intervals. (e) Broken bowsprit, after being rammed by harbor boat, while we were sitting at the dock minding our own business. Consequence—had to make a new bowsprit—quite a job.

However, we finally got away, after signing a waiver of liability and obtaining a Permit to Cruise, which permitted us to poke our bow into any place we wanted to.

We left Yokohama on June 23. I don’t know if any other foreign yacht has ever made the coastal passage from Yokohama to Hiroshima or thereabouts; I’ve never heard of any. However, for the convenience of yachtsmen who might come this way, I list briefly the thirteen ports we touched at, in the course of our 700-mile trip covering nineteen sailing days:

Hashirimizu, Self-Defense Force anchorage. Aburatsubo, wonderfully hidden little spot. Shimoda, big port, tied alongside Coast Guard boat. Omae-zaki, small village, with breakwater. Toba, town, tied alongside Coast Guard boat. Katsuura, summer resort, good anchorage, many spas. Wakayama, big city, much water activity, yacht club. Sumoto, on Awaji Island, fishing village, small. Takamatsu, on Shikoku, which you know. Kinoura, bay, village. Kurohama, lovely bay, small village, beautiful spot. Eta-uchi, near Hiroshima, where we rode out Typhoon June in 1954.

The Japanese maritime agencies were very kind to us all the way down. Obviously we were expected wherever we went, the word being passed along in advance. We rounded Shionomisaki, the “Cape Horn” of Honshu, on July 11, without incident, and headed northward toward the Inland Sea.

This time, however, we did not tackle Naruto Straits, but sailed on past Kobe and Osaka, then westward to Takamatsu.

At Awaji-shima, we paused for a day or so in the tiny fishing harbor of Sumoto, while I took a flying trip (courtesy Japan Air Lines) back to Tokyo, to participate in a very popular nationally televised show, called “I Know a Secret.” I was the Secret of the Week—for about thirty seconds. The expert panel guessed my identity without asking a question, so we spent the rest of the time chatting about our trip around the world, using big maps which had been prepared at the studio in advance. Then back to Sumoto and on into the Inland Sea.

In Takamatsu, where we of course had many friends, we were given a berth at the Coast Guard docks. The yacht club gave us a fine party, at which we were presented with a lovely plaque. Also, as we had promised long before, we paid a return visit to Kompira-san. Following the custom, we took along tangible evidence of the dangers of the sea from which we had escaped, and added our old broken bowsprit—suitably decorated and identified—to the temple museum.

At this time we were approached by the Committee of Welcome from Hiroshima, who asked us to give them the date and time of our arrival in Hiroshima. I was a bit nonplused at first and then thought that, if the Johnsons in _Yankee_ could set up a schedule of this nature, so could I. I told them we would be in Hiroshima between 1400 and 1500 on the afternoon of July 30. Now all we had to do was get there on time.

After five days in Takamatsu we sailed through Naka Passage, of Kurushima Straits, hitting it (by design) just as the tide turned fair. At any other time we wouldn’t be able to get through. Now we were back in familiar waters, and our last two anchorages—Kurohama and Eta-uchi—were old friends.

All in all, it was a rather enjoyable trip down, but I had my fingers crossed, especially after committing ourselves as to an arrival date. I tried not to let down my guard, lest some yacht-hating demon deal me a nasty blow—and one almost did. Almost the last entry in the log says:

1122 _Petrolene_, Monrovia, a big oil tanker, changed course abruptly to SB at No. 1 Buoy, cut across the ship channel, and almost ran us down. Had to change course 90° to avoid collision. Vented my spleen by blowing my horn vigorously—which was answered by happy waving from up above, on the bridge.

On the morning of June 30, 1960, after a night in our old typhoon refuge of Eta-uchi, we set out for Hiroshima, giving ourselves plenty of time. Within an hour the first snipe from the Hiroshima Yacht Club had reached us and soon we were the middle of a flotilla. At exactly 1425 we tied up at our old dock in Ujina, the port of Hiroshima. The UPI reported:

HIROSHIMA WELCOMES REYNOLDS

Hiroshima, Japan, Aug. 1 (UPI)—Dr. Earle L. Reynolds, an American anthropologist, who left here six years ago on a round-the-world yacht cruise....

BIG EVENT

The yacht returned Saturday with Dr. Reynolds and the same crew that left Hiroshima’s Ujina port six years ago. His return was a big event here.

To welcome the “homecoming” of the American, more than 30 yachts of the Hiroshima University and a score of motorboats sailed out of the harbor to meet the _Phoenix_ and escorted it to the pier.

To add color to the welcome there was a display of fireworks and multicolored balloons.

On the pier Dr. Reynolds was greeted by a crowd of Hiroshima citizens. Later he was honored at a welcome back party at the Hiroshima Maritime Safety Board.

I don’t recall any score of motorboats, and you know about the crew situation—but there really was quite a bustle, and we couldn’t have asked for a happier homecoming because that’s what it was to us—we had come home to Hiroshima.

The next day there was a formal welcoming banquet, with Governor Ohara, the honorary president of the Phoenix Supporters’ Association, as toastmaster. We were given a very beautiful cup—a mounted replica of the world, in gleaming black, with our track picked out in golden thread and the details of our voyage inscribed in Japanese on the base.

For those who like figures, here they are: we visited 122 ports, spent 649 days at sea, and sailed 54,359 sea miles (about 62,500 land miles) to make good a direct track of 45,516 sea miles (about 52,300 land miles). We had been away for 5 years, 9 months, and 26 days.

One might think that was enough, but soon after that we sailed to Russia ... but that’s still _another_ story!

INDEX

Aburatsubo, Japan, 302

Academy Bay, Santa Cruz, 281, 283–85, 286, 287, 289

Aitutaki, 104

Albatrosses, 116–17

American Yachtsmen’s Association, 66, 254

Angermeyer, Carmen, 289

Angermeyer, Carl, 281, 287

Angermeyer, Fritz, 289

Angermeyer, Marga, 281, 282, 283, 285, 287

Annapolis, 255

Antigua, 240

Antioch College, 2, 254

Appavou, M., 198

Arafura Sea, 155

Argod, Robert, 84

_Arthur Rogers_ (ship), 287

Aru (island), 156

Ascension, 228–29

Atherton tablelands (Australia), 144

Atomic Bomb Casualty Commission, 3, 5, 35, 134, 257, 258

Auckland, New Zealand, 119, 120–25, 128

Australia, 100, 130–32, 133–46

Avarua, Cook Islands, 101

Awaji-shima, 302

Bahamas, 258–59

Balboa, Canal Zone, 272

Balboa Yacht Club, 272

Bali, 161, 164–68, 169–77

Baltra (island), 284

Bandung Strait, 166

Barbados, 229, 235, 236–37

Barranjoey Light, 130

Barrett, Jim, 269, 270, 272

Bartholomew Island, 287

Bartlett, Chris, 189–90

Bartlett, Mrs. Chris, 193

Batavia, 180

Bathurst Island, 156

Bay of Islands, 118

Belcourt, Christian, 194

Belém, Brazil, 221, 229, 230, 232–35

Benoa, Bali, 164, 166, 167, 174

Bewick Island, 147

Big Joe, 96–97, 98

Bikini nuclear bomb test area, 298

Black Beach, Santa María, 280

Blackfish, 76

Blassingame, Lurton, 248

Bonaparte, Napoleon, _see_ Napoleon

Bora Bora, 87, 94–99, 107, 141

Brazil, 221–22, 225, 229–35

British Commonwealth Occupation Forces salvage depot, 11, 78

British Samoa, 109

Brotherson, Charles, 93, 94

Browning, quoted, 3

Buccaneer Bay, 288, 289

Cairns, Australia, 141–46

Callander, Peter, 128, 129–30

Canal Zone, 265–66, 267–73, 290

Cape Agulhas, 215

Cape of Good Hope, 214

Cape Peninsula, 215

Cape Solomon, 237

Cape Town, South Africa, 148, 149, 214, 215–23, 225

Cape York peninsula, 151

Carpentaria Light Boat, 155

Carr family, 273

Carstarphen family, 242

Catley, Vice-Commodore, 126

Ceram (island), 156

Champion, Buz, 93

Champion, June, 93

Charles (island), 279

Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas, 242–43

Chavez (island), 276

Chesapeake Bay, 254, 255

Chico (guide), 277–79

Christchurch, New Zealand, 126

Christmas Island, 201

Christopher, Rev. Raymond, 36

City Island, 250

_City of Brisbane_ (ship), 291

Clark, Joan, 244, 254

_Cle du Sol_ (yacht), 284

Clunies-Ross family, 189, 191–92

Cobos, Mrs. Karin, 276–79

Cocos Islands, _see_ Keeling-Cocos Islands

Collins, Al, 70

Collins, Verity, 70

Colón, Panama, 269–70

Columbus, Christopher, 54

Connecticut, 250–51

Cook, Captain James, 71, 129, 146, 147

Cook Islands, 83, 100–3

Cook Strait, 125, 126, 128

Cooktown, Australia, 146–47

_Cora_ (ship), 154

Cristobal, Canal Zone, 269

Daimyo (cat), 299

Damar (island), 156

Darwin, Charles, 276

Davis, Clare, 134, 138–40, 143–44

De Plessis, Mr., 219–20

Den Pasar, Bali, 167, 169, 171

Diamond Head, 59, 297

Diamond Rock, 237

Dicker, Mr., 161, 164

Direction Island, 189, 191, 192

Dominica, 238–40

Dorn family, 250–51

_Drum_ (African magazine), 218

Duchess (cat), 293

Durban, South Africa, 204–5, 208, 212–13, 214

East Flats, 267

East Kauai Hiroshima Ken Association, 69

East River, 250

Easter Island, 287

Ecuador, 273, 279, 282, 284, 289, 290

Eisenhower, Dwight D., 249–50

_Eishin Maru_ (ship), 269, 270

Ellis Channel, 149

English Harbor, Antigua, 240–41

Eta Jima (island), 26

Eta-uchi, Japan, 302, 303, 304

Exton, Carol, 134

_Fairweather_ (yacht), 262

Falla, Dr., 127

Fare, Huahiné, 87–88, 93

Fels Research Institute, 2, 254

Fernando de Noronha, 230

Fetherston, Captain, 271

Fiji Islands, 109, 111–14, 115, 119

Five Mile River, 251

Flattypus (dinghy), 136, 139, 158, 159, 164, 218, 226

_Fleur d’Océan_ (ship), 84

Floreana (island), 279

Foley, Larry, 236–37, 240

Fort, Mr., 105

Fort de France, Martinique, 237, 238

Fortaleza, Brazil, 230–32

Freshwater Falls, 275

Fushima, Motosada (Moto), 25, 34, 41, 48, 50, 51, 53, 59, 64, 65, 66, 68, 69, 71, 75, 78, 79, 83, 95, 103, 104, 112–13, 117, 121, 142, 148, 160, 164, 180, 202, 203, 204, 208–11, 213, 216, 217, 223, 230, 232, 233, 248, 251, 252–57, 262–64, 268–70

Galápagos, 272, 273, 275–85, 290, 291

Gatun Lake, 269, 271

Geering, Bill, 200–1

_Gempylus_, 77–78, 127

Georgetown, Ascension, 229

Glass, Cap’n, 71

Gloster, Hugh, 255

_Golden Rule_ (ship), 298

_Grand Slam_ (cruiser), 250

Great Amazon Bight, 235

Great Barrier Reef, 134, 137, 138, 140, 147–150

Great Bridge, 256

Great Inagua, 260

Great Palm Island, 140–41

Guadeloupe, 240

Haapu, Huahiné, 89–93

Hachijo-shima, 41, 44–45

Haleakala (volcano), 70

Hampton, Virginia, 255–56

Hannah Island, 147

Harford, Sir James, 227

Harford, Lady, 227

Harima Nada, 37

Harris, Marjorie, 176–77, 180, 181

Harris, Mike, 177, 180, 181

Harris, Susan, 177, 181, 183

Hashirimizu, Japan, 302

Hatoyama, Mr., 67

_Havfruen_ (ship), 273

Hawaii National Park, 72

Hawaii Yacht Club, 66, 67

Hawaiian Islands, 57, 61–73, 290, 294–96, 297–98

Hazlehurst, Dr. George, 35

Heyerdahl, 288

Hilo, Hawaii, 71–73, 293–96, 297

Hiroshima, Japan, 2, 3, 22, 23, 25, 26, 28, 64, 249, 258, 298, 302–4

Hiroshima Ken Society, 64, 67, 71, 295

Hiroshima University Yacht Club, 5, 15, 30, 304

Hiroshima Wan, 3

Hluhluwe Game Reserve, 213

Hobson’s Choice (Hobby; cat), 223, 225

Hokkaido, Japan, 27

_Hollywood_ (freighter), 190

Holy Child Current, 274

Home Island, 189, 192

Honolulu, Hawaii, 23, 28, 38, 50, 53, 57–59, 61–68, 70, 113, 288, 297–98

Horneman family, 283–84

Horseshoe Shoals, 255

Huahiné, 87–93

Hudson River, 248

Huntington, Bill, 298

_Inca_ (ship), 287

Indefatigable (island), 276

Indian Creek, 255

Indian Ocean, 182, 183, 190, 201

Indonesia, 134, 135–36, 165, 170, 176, 180–83

Inland Sea of Japan, 1, 2, 3, 28, 31, 32, 34, 36, 39, 63, 302, 303

_Inspire_ (trawler), 102

_Isabela_ (ship), 290, 291

Islands Under the Wind, 83, 93

Itsukushima, 30

“Jacob’s Ladder” (St. Helena), 228

Jakarta, Indonesia, 135, 158, 176–80, 181–83

Jamaica, 258, 262–65

Jamestown, St. Helena, 226–28

Japerica Island, 232

James Bay, 285, 290

James Island, 285, 287, 291

Japan, _see_ names of cities and towns

Japanese current, 38

Java, 135, 171, 177, 181

Java Sea, 177

_Jeanne Mathilde_ (yacht), 199

Jenkinson, Sir Anthony, 262, 263, 264

Jenkinson, Lady, 262

Johannesburg, South Africa, 208

Johnson, Irving, 281, 303

_Joyita_ (ship), 110, 115–16, 119

Kartakusuma, Dr. Angsar Muhamad M., 175–76

Kastdalen family, 282–83

Katsuura, Japan, 302

Kauai, 68–69

Kauai Yacht Club, 69

Kaulaiaiwi Island, 295

Kawau Island, 119

Kawau Yacht Club, 119

Kealakekua Bay, Hawaii, 71

Keegan family, 192

Keeling-Cocos Islands, 183–85, 188, 189, 191, 195, 201

Kii Suido, 39

King, “Rex,” 200

Kingsley family (Timor), 160–61, 163

Kingston, Jamaica, 262–64

Kinoura, Japan, 302

Kobe, Japan, 23, 25, 302

Kompira-san, 34, 303

_Kongstank_ (tanker), 215

_Kon-Tiki_, 77, 288

Koro Sea, 111

Kotohira, Japan, 34

Krakatoa (volcano), 183

Kruger National Park, 207, 213

Kupang, Timor, 156, 157–65

Kure, Japan, 11, 23, 78, 134

Kurohama, Japan, 302, 303

Kurushima Straits, 303

Kwajalein, 298

Lahaina, Hawaii, 71, 297

Lardi, Mr., 190

Lauli’i, Samoa, 105–8

Lawler, Jim, 120

Leonard, Minnetta, 36, 169, 171, 174–77, 180, 181, 224, 251

Lidgard, Irene, 119

Lidgard, Roy, 119

_Life_ magazine, 290

Linderman (island), 140

Lion, the, 215

_Little Bear_ (ship), 93

Lizard Island, 147

Lombok Strait, 166, 177

Long Bay (St. Thomas), 242

Long Island Sound, 250, 253

Longwood, St. Helena, 228

Lord Howe Island, 130, 135

Lourenço Marques, 208

Lowe, Governor, 104

Madagascar, 203

Madison, Wisconsin, 251

Makapuu Light, 59

Malpelo Island, 274

Manuia (cat), 155, 178, 187, 202, 223–24

_Marie Thérèse II_ (yacht), 200

Marlborough, Duke of, 118

Marquesas, 272, 273, 289, 290, 291–93

Marshall Islands, 298

Martinique, 237

Marugame, 38

Matahiva, 78

Mathew Town, Great Inagua, 260

Mathurin, Rodrigues, 194, 196

Maui, 70

Mauna Kea, 294, 295

Mauritius, 194–202

_Mauritius_ (supply ship), 195, 196, 197

Mayaguana Island, 258–60

_Mayflower_ (ship), 54

McKittrick, Bob, 292, 293

McQueen, Bill, 126

Melbourne, Australia, 134

Melville, Herman, 291

Melville Island, 156

Mickey, _see_ Suemitsu, Mitsugi

Middle Island, 139

Midway Island, 52

Mikami, Niichi (Nick), 5, 6, 15, 17, 23–24, 25, 26, 34, 41, 45, 46, 49, 50, 52, 53, 59, 65, 66, 69, 75, 77, 79, 83, 87, 90, 92, 95, 100–1, 103, 104, 112–13, 117, 120–21, 142, 145, 160, 180, 187, 202, 204, 205, 208–11, 213, 216, 223, 231, 232, 233, 248, 251, 254–56, 261–65, 274, 276, 277, 288, 293, 300

Mi-ke (cat), 18, 30, 42, 48, 54, 58, 62, 85, 127, 155

Misol (island), 156

Mississippi, 218

Mitarai, Japan, 32

Miya Jima (island), 1, 5, 30

Miyake-shima, 45

Moitessier, Bernard, 200

Molokai Channel, 59

Moller, Christine, 212

Moller, Lindsay, 211, 213

Moller, Vicky, 212

_Mollihawk_ (yacht), 241

Moto, _see_ Fushima, Motosada

Molokai, 38, 57, 59

Montauk Point, 253

Montserrat, 240

Moody Reef, 149

Mooréa (island), 86–87

Morehead City, North Carolina, 256–58

Mosher, Phil, 104

Nagasaki, Japan, 3, 258

Naka Passage, 303

Napoleon, 226, 228, 289

Napoopoo, Hawaii, 71

Naruto Straits, 37, 39

National Academy of Sciences, 2, 257

Nawiliwili, Kauai, 69

Ndonoe, Mr., 159–60, 164, 165

_Nellie Brush_ (ship), 287

Nelson, Art, 68

Nelson, Horatio, 240, 241, 265

Nevill, G., 102

New Guinea, 156

New South Wales, Australia, 138

New York City, New York, 243, 247–50

New Zealand, 100, 111, 117–28

_Ngaroma_ (ship), 120

Nicholson family, 241

Nick, _see_ Mikami, Niichi

“Night Beat” (TV program), 248–50

Night Island, 147

_Nippon Maru_ (ship), 42

Niuafoo (island), 110

Nojima light, 301

Norfolk Channel, 256

North Head, 130

North Keeling Island, 187

Nuku Hiva, 291, 292, 293

Oahu, 70

Ohara, Governor, 65, 304

Ohara Company, 23

Omae-zaki, Japan, 302

Osaka, Japan, 23, 302

Oxford, 255

Pachernegg, Joe, 284

Packer, Mr., 133

Pago Pago, 104–5, 109–10

Paipai Pass, 94

Panama, 272

Panama Canal, 265–66, 267–73, 284

Panama Canal Yacht Club, 268

Panama City, Panama, 272

Papeete, Tahiti, 73, 80, 81–86, 95, 96 98

Papetoai Bay, Mooréa, 86

Pará River, 230, 232, 233

Paton, Alan, 220

Pearl Harbor, 59, 298

Pele (volcanic goddess), 72

Percy Islands, 139

Pern, St. de Jean, 202, 203–4

Petite, Mlle., 237–38

Phelps, Bill, 254

Phelps, Bob, 254

Philip, Prince, 227

Philippines, 165

Philipsburg, St. Martin, 241

_Phoenix_, the building of, 4–16 designing of, 3–4 launching of, 1–2, 14–15, 17–19 naming of, 12–13

Pidgeon, 148

Pine Inlet, 139

Plaza Islands, 286

Pooley, Alan, 70

Port Louis, Mauritius, 197, 198, 200

Port Mathurin, Rodrigues, 194, 196

Port Royal, Jamaica, 262, 264–65

Port Royal Beach Club, 262

Portsmouth, Dominica, 239

Post Office Bay (Santa María), 279–80

Potter, Governor, 269, 273

Pretoria, South Africa, 208, 213

_President Wilson_ (ship), 29

Progreso (Galápagos), 276–77, 279

Puckapunyal, Australia, 134

Puerto Chico (Galápagos), 276, 279

Puna, Ecuador, 290

Queensland, Australia, 140

Raïatéa, 87, 93, 94, 96

Rarotonga, Cook Island, 83, 100–3, 106

Redonda Rock, 291

Reedy Point, Delaware, 254

Reynolds, Barbara (wife), 2, 12, 15–18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 30, 31, 34–36, 40, 42–43, 47–49, 51–55, 61–63, 67, 68, 70–73, 77, 78, 80, 82, 89, 91, 96, 97, 102–9, 113, 117, 122, 128, 132, 134–37, 139, 140, 146–48, 152, 157–59, 161–62, 165–66, 169–71, 174–77, 180, 181, 183–87, 195, 196, 198, 199, 202, 205–6, 208, 213, 214, 216, 222–24, 225–27, 233–39, 241, 242, 244–46, 248–51, 253, 259, 263, 265, 268, 274–79, 283, 288–89

Reynolds, Jessica (daughter), 2, 3, 8, 16, 17, 18, 20, 22, 24–25, 26, 28, 29, 33, 34, 36, 42, 43, 48, 49, 54–55, 67, 70, 71, 76, 77, 78, 87, 90, 94, 96, 97, 105–08, 112, 113, 116, 122, 124, 127, 131, 134–35, 138–39, 142, 148, 150, 152, 153, 155–59, 161, 166, 173–78, 180, 181, 183, 187, 190, 194, 199, 201, 202, 209, 212, 213, 216, 222–24, 225–28, 233–34, 239, 240–41, 243–44, 248, 251, 255, 262–63, 265, 281, 283–84, 288, 291, 293–95, 298, 299

Reynolds, Ted (son), 2, 3, 15, 17, 20, 21, 24–25, 27–28, 32, 33, 35–36, 38, 41, 43, 45, 51, 59, 68, 70–72, 74, 75, 79, 87, 89, 101, 105, 117–18, 124, 126, 127, 128, 130, 132, 134, 145–48, 154, 158–59, 161–63, 166, 171, 174, 177, 179, 181–84, 187, 194, 196, 199, 213, 214, 224, 226, 233, 235, 238, 239, 248, 251, 252–54, 263, 265, 269, 274–76, 281, 283–84, 287, 288, 291, 293, 294

Reynolds, Tim (son), 3, 15, 248, 251

Robinson, William, 83–84, 278, 287

Rodrigues, 184, 188, 193, 194–97, 201

Roseau, Dominica, 238–39

Rosebank (Quarantine Station), 247–48

Rouchecouste, Claude, 194, 196

Rouchecouste, Mme. Claude, 194, 196

Rousset, Jacques, 199–200

Rowayton, Connecticut, 251, 252–53

Royal Cape Yacht Club, 216, 218

Royal Port Nicholson Yacht Club, 126

Royal Suva Yacht Club, 111, 112

Rushcutter’s Bay, 132, 133

Russell, New Zealand, 118–20

Russia, 305

St. Helena, 224, 226–28, 289

St. James Bay (St. Helena), 226

St. Lucia, 237

St. Martin, 241

St. Thomas, 242–43

Saint-Pierre (Martinique), 237

Sakala, 156

Salinas, Brazil, 232, 236

Samoa, 83, 104–9

San Cristóbal, Galápagos, 273, 275, 279

Sanford, Francis, 94

Sanford, Lysa, 94–95, 98

Santa Cruz (island), 276, 279, 281–83, 286

Santa María (island), 279–80, 283

_Santa Olivia_ (freighter), 270, 271

São Paulo, Brazil, 221

Sargasso Sea, 244

Sassafras River, Maryland, 254

_Saturday Evening Post_, 139

Scotland Light, 246

Sermata (island), 156

Seven Seas Cruising Association, 66, 242

_Shellback_ (ship), 242

Sherwood, Bill, 115, 117–18, 119

Shionomisaki, 302

Signal Hill (St. Helena), 228

Sinclair, Bill, 213

Slocum, Joshua, 2, 143, 147, 149, 235

Society Islands, 45, 94, 97, 106

Solomon Island, 255

South Africa, 202, 207–24

South Island, 123, 126, 128

South Point, 71

_Spray_ (ship), 2, 147, 149

Sprite Island Yacht Club, 250

Staten Island, 246

Statue of Liberty, 248

Stuyvesant Yacht Club, 250

Suemitsu, Mitsugi (Mickey), 25, 32, 34, 47–48, 50–53, 58, 59, 65, 66, 67, 69, 75, 78, 79, 83, 95, 103, 104, 111, 112–13, 115, 117, 121, 128–29, 144–45, 156, 160, 180, 188, 202, 204, 208–11, 216, 223, 224, 232, 233, 248, 251–57, 260–64, 268–70

Suggs, Bob, 292

Suggs, Rae, 292

Sukarno, Achmed, 182

Sullivan Bay, 287

_Sulu_ (ship), 214–15

Sumoto, Japan, 302, 303

Sunda Strait, 183

_Sunrise_ (yacht), 285

Suva, Fiji Islands, 110, 111–13

Suwandi, Igusti Rai, 171–73, 175

_Svaap_ (ship), 83

Sydney, Australia, 115, 129–32, 133–37

Sydney _Telegraph_, 133

Table Mountain, 215, 216

Tahaa, 87, 93–94

Tahaa reef, 94

Tahiti, 72, 78–80, 81–86, 106

_Tahiti_ (ketch), 81

Tai Oa, Marquesas, 293

Taiohae, 291–92