CHAPTER XXIX.

Pichagas—The peak of Sahama—Chocos—Capture of a sheep for fresh meat—Ostriches—Sepulturas—Mortality amongst animals—Mule attacked with belly pains—El Cerro del Volcan—Las Siete Vueltas—Bright-coloured hills—Peru entered—Tacora—Mules attacked with soroche—El Rio de Azufre—Aqueduct to Tacna from river Maury—The pass of Chulancani—Apacheta of bones—Aspect of the Pacific slope of the Andes—Projected railway between Tacna and La Paz—The Portada—El Ingenio—Palca—New road in construction—Arrival at Tacna—The hotel Bola de Oro—Tacna and its trade—Attempt to sell the mules in Tacna—Railway from Tacna to Arica—Effects of the great hurricane wave of 1869—Arica—By steamer from Arica to Callao—Callao—Its magnificent harbour—Lima—The cathedral—Plaza de Armas—Old bridge, built in 1608—Firemen—By steamer from Lima to Panamá—Payta—Panamá—Severe fires—The prison—Rail to Aspinwall—Aspinwall—Home by mail steamer 371

APPENDIX 399

LIST OF ENGRAVINGS.

PAGE

MAP _Frontispiece_

SAN ANTONIO—RIVER MADEIRA (LOOKING DOWN STREAM)[1] 25

GARITEA, OR TRAVELLER’S CANOE, RIVER MADEIRA[1] 33

CASCARA, OR BARK CANOE OF THE CARIPUNAS AND OTHER TRIBES OF THE RIVER MADEIRA[1] 60

CURIOUS INSCRIPTIONS ON ROCKS AT DIFFERENT RAPIDS 77

INDIAN GIRL OF EXALTACION[1] 130

THE BATA[1] 143

SKETCHES OF TRINITARIO INDIANS[1] 153

NECKLACE OF BRIGHT RED BEANS[1] 188

GROUP OF BOLIVIAN MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS, ETC.[1] 189

AUTHOR, AND YURACARÉ INDIANS 191

VIEW OF COCHABAMBA 219

SUCRE, OR CHUQUISACA, CAPITAL OF BOLIVIA 258

GENERAL QUEVEDO 271

PRESIDENT FRIAS 290

EL CERRO DE POTOSÍ 322

YESCA AND MECHA HOLDER (POTOSÍ)[1] 326

A CHULPA[1] 343

QUICHUAN OVEN (LLOLLIA)[1] 360

QUICHUAN WOMAN OF LLOLLIA[1] 361

PASS OF TACORA 378

LA PORTADA 381

ANGOSTURA 383

FOOTNOTES

[1] From a sketch by the Author.

UP THE AMAZON AND MADEIRA RIVERS.