Chapter 22 of 50 · 995 words · ~5 min read

CHAPTER XXVIII.

PEKING (_continued_)—AND HOME.

Difficulty of sketching in the streets—My journey from Peking to Tientsin—A Chinese house-boat—The Peiho River—Tientsin—From Tientsin to Shanghai—And home 371

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

THE “BISCAYA” LEAVING BLACKWALL 1

PREPARATIONS FOR THE ARCTIC REGIONS _To face_ 8

A “DEAD RECKONING” IN THE KARA SEA 10

OUR ICE-MASTER, CAPTAIN CROWTHER 13

CLEARING THE DRIFT ICE FROM THE PROPELLER 16

THE HOME OF THE WALRUS-HUNTER 20

THE “BISCAYA” ICE-BOUND IN THE KARA SEA _To face_ 24

AFTER SEALS 25

“ONE SPECK OF LIFE IN THE ICE-BOUND WASTE” 27

THE HANDSOMEST MEMBER OF HIS FAMILY 33

SAMOYEDE BOATMEN _To face_ 34

KARAOUL 36

THE SAMOYEDE’S GRAVE 39

A SAMOYEDE LADY 40

TRANSHIPMENT OF OUR CARGO TO THE “PHŒNIX” 43

OUR CUSTOM-HOUSE OFFICER 48

KASANSKOI 50

TRADER’S HOUSE AT KASANSKOI 50

MINE HOST AT KASANSKOI 51

SWEET SEVENTEEN 53

A HOME IN NORTHERN SIBERIA: THE MORNING MEAL _To face_ 54

MATERFAMILIAS 55

TEMPORARY FARMYARD ON ONE OF THE BARGES _To face_ 57

TEA-TIME AT THE MEN’S QUARTERS ON SHORE 57

COSSACKS 58

A HOUSE-BOAT 60

THE “PHŒNIX” _To face_ 61

LOADING WOOD FOR THE “PHŒNIX” ” 66

DIFFICULT NAVIGATION 70

SELIVANAKA _To face_ 78

THE PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARE, TURUCHANSK 80

OUR FIRST VISIT FROM OFFICIAL RUSSIA _To face_ 83

WERCHNEIMBACKSKOI ” 83

INTERESTED OBSERVERS 83

THE RUSSIAN POLICE OFFICER _To face_ 84

THE VILLAGE PRIEST 85

A VILLAGE BOAT 88

A RIVER PILOT 89

THE RIVER YENISEI AT WOROGORO _To face_ 90

STORING THE WINTER FORAGE: A VILLAGE SCENE ON THE YENISEI _To face_ 96

YENISEISK 97

PEASANT WOMAN 101

IN THE MARKET-PLACE, YENISEISK _To face_ 101

A PRISON BEAUTY 107

THE GOVERNOR VISITING THE MEN’S PRISON, YENISEISK _To face_ 109

THE MURDERERS’ DEPARTMENT, YENISEISK PRISON 111

THE GOVERNOR VISITING THE WOMEN’S PRISON, YENISEISK _To face_ 112

CRIMINAL PRISONERS WAITING AT YENISEISK FOR CONVOY TO START FOR KRASNOIARSK _To face_ 113

STREET SCENE, YENISEISK 117

A WATER-CARRIER 118

GETTING WATER FROM THE FROZEN RIVER YENISEI _To face_ 118

THE HIGH STREET, YENISEISK ” 118

A SWELL 119

THE TWO COLLEGIATE SCHOOLS, YENISEISK _To face_ 120

LIFE IN SIBERIA: AN AFTERNOON DRIVE IN YENISEISK ” 121

READY TO START 123

“GOOD-BYE” 126

IN THE MEAT MARKET, KRASNOIARSK 131

A TYPICAL SIBERIAN INTERIOR, KRASNOIARSK 132

SNOW SCAVENGER, KRASNOIARSK _To face_ 133

THE CATHEDRAL, KRASNOIARSK 134

A CONVOY OF PRISONERS ON THE MARCH (ENLARGEMENT FROM AN INSTANTANEOUS KODAK PHOTO) _To face_ 138

PRISONERS UNLOADING SLEDGES ON ARRIVAL AT PERASILNY, KRASNOIARSK _To face_ 140

VERIFICATION OF PRISONERS ON ARRIVAL AT PERASILNY, KRASNOIARSK _To face_ 141

THE STAROSTER OF THE GANG 142

GROUP OF PRISONERS (FROM A GOVERNMENT PHOTO) 144

A “PRIVILIGIERT,” OR PRIVILEGED PRISONER 148

PEASANT WOMEN SELLING PROVISIONS TO PRISONERS 149

WATCHMAN ON DUTY IN FIRE TOWER, KRASNOIARSK _To face_ 155

MY SERVANT 156

ARRIVAL AT A POST STATION 164

INTERIOR OF A POST-HOUSE _To face_ 166

THE IMPERIAL MAIL ” 173

IRKUTSK 180

THE MOSKOVSKAIA PODVORIÉ, IRKUTSK _To face_ 180

AN IRKUTSK BEAUTY 185

ENTRANCE HALL OF MILLIONAIRE GOLD-MINE OWNER’S HOUSE, IRKUTSK 186

STREET SCENE, IRKUTSK 188

A COSSACK _To face_ 190

AN IRKUTSK POLICEMAN ” 191

THE MUSEUM, IRKUTSK 191

THE RECREATION GROUND, IRKUTSK PRISON 192

MARRIED PRISONERS WAITING TO BE SERVED WITH NEW CLOTHES ON ARRIVAL AT PRISON, IRKUTSK _To face_ 193

THE PRISON ARTIST ” 196

THE BARONESS 201

A “POLITICAL” (FROM A GOVERNMENT PHOTO) _To face_ 205

“SWEETHEARTS AND WIVES:” VISITING-DAY IN THE IRKUTSK PRISON _To face_ 206

AUTOGRAPH LETTER FROM THE BARONESS ” 207

THE HIGH STREET, IRKUTSK 208

IN THE COURTYARD OF A FIRE STATION, IRKUTSK 215

THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL’S HOUSE, IRKUTSK 218

STREET SCENE, IRKUTSK 220

A BIT ON THE ROAD TO LAKE BAIKAL 221

THE RIVER ANGARA NEAR LAKE BAIKAL 225

LIESTVINITZ, ON LAKE BAIKAL 229

A LAKE BAIKAL STEAMER 231

CROSSING LAKE BAIKAL 233

THE KUPETSKI TRACK 235

A POST-HOUSE ON THE KUPETSKI TRACK 238

A TEA CART 240

DAY-DREAMS: A SKETCH IN THE TRANS-BAIKAL _To face_ 242

THE HIGH STREET, TROITZKOSAVSK ” 245

MY FIRST GLIMPSE OF MONGOLIA ” 246

A BOURRIATE LADY 247

SKETCH BY A POLITICAL PRISONER, MADE WHILST ON THE MARCH ACROSS SIBERIA (THE ORIGINAL IS IN SEPIA AND WHITE) _To face_ 248

ON THE ROAD TO OURGA 249

A MONGOL YOURT 253

A MONGOL 254

OUR MIDDAY HALT 260

A STREET MUSICIAN, OURGA 272

THE PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARE, OURGA _To face_ 273

A PILGRIM FROM THIBET 277

A LAMA 281

A PRAYER-WHEEL, OURGA 283

PRAYER-BOARDS, OURGA 284

“THE OLD, OLD STORY ALL THE WORLD OVER” _To face_ 286

IN THE CAMEL AND PONY BAZAAR, OURGA ” 293

IN THE BAZAAR, OURGA ” 294

THE PUNISHMENT OF THE “CARGUE:” A SKETCH OUTSIDE THE PRISON, OURGA _To face_ 295

AN OURGA BEAUTY ” 299

IN THE GOBI DESERT 301

MY CAMEL-CART _To face_ 303

MONGOL CONVEYING THE RUSSIAN LIGHT MAIL ACROSS THE GOBI DESERT _To face_ 306

THE MIDDAY HALT IN THE DESERT 309

MY CARAVAN IN THE DESERT (FROM A KODAK PHOTO) 313

WE MEET THE HOMEWARD-BOUND MAIL 314

THE LAMA SETTLEMENT OF TCHO-IYR IN THE GOBI DESERT 315

I TAKE TEA WITH A LAMA IN THE GOBI DESERT _To face_ 316

THE RUSSIAN POST-STATION IN MID-DESERT 318

IN THE GOBI DESERT: A TEA CARAVAN ON ITS WAY TO SIBERIA (FROM A KODAK PHOTO) 320

IN THE GOBI DESERT: LADY VISITORS TO OUR ENCAMPMENT _To face_ 323

“YE GENTLE SHEPHERDESS OF YE STEPPE” ” 324

STREET SCENE, YAMBOOSHAN (SHOWING THE “GREAT WALL” ON MOUNTAIN IN BACKGROUND) _To face_ 332

MY MULE-LITTER ” 338

THE COURTYARD OF A CHINESE INN 341

A “ROOM” IN A CHINESE INN 343

A NASTY BIT OF ROAD _To face_ 346

THE GREAT WALL OF CHINA AT THE ENTRANCE TO NANKAOU PASS _To face_ 348

STREET SCENE, TARTAR CITY, PEKING 356

CHINESE REVENUE CRUISERS IN HONG KONG ROADSTEAD (FROM A PHOTO GIVEN BY SIR ROBERT HART) _To face_ 363

SIR ROBERT HART, G.C.M.G., IN HIS “DEN” AT PEKING _To face_ 366

MY HOUSE-BOAT 375

SHANGHAI 380

FROM THE ARCTIC OCEAN TO THE YELLOW SEA.