Chapter 10 of 10 · 6802 words · ~34 min read

CHAPTER X

LENTEN FARE

_Festina lente_]

The most strenuous Lenten faster on record was, I venture to think, St. Macarius, who was annually in the habit of passing forty days and forty nights in a standing position with no more substantial support than a few raw cabbage-leaves on each recurring Sunday.

Simeon Stylites was even more abstemious, for he ate nothing from the beginning to the end of Lent, passing his time in praying and bowing from his columnar elevation. An admiring monk has placed it upon record that, possibly by way of assuaging the pangs of hunger, Simeon made on one day twelve hundred and forty-four separate and distinct bows.

It is doubtless an excellent thing to have the strength of mind and body to be able to act up to one’s convictions. We should find it difficult to realize the idea of a Bishop of London never breaking his fast till the evening, and then being satisfied with a solitary egg, an inch of bread, and a cup of milk and water; such, however, was the daily Lenten fare of St. Cedd, a predecessor of Dr. Winnington Ingram in the Metropolitan diocese.

It is told of St. Francis of Assisi that he ate nothing dressed by fire, unless he were very ill, and even then he caused it to be covered with ashes, or dipped into cold water. His common daily food was dry bread strewn with ashes, but--the historian adds--he did not condemn his followers to the rigorous diet which he himself observed. “Brother Ass,” as he familiarly called that self, was, in his own opinion, worthy of no better fare.

But there is another and lighter side to the picture. The Roman Catholic Church, especially the upper classes thereof, in long bygone times, did not always submit patiently to the stricter ethics of fasting. Kings and princes used to send medical and theological certificates to the Pope, begging humbly to be allowed to eat meat. The Holy Father was even begged to adjudicate on individual dishes. Pope Zacharias forbade roast hare. Under Pope John XXII the Franciscans were much vexed as to whether they really owned the soup that they ate, or whether they only had the bare _usufruct_ thereof. As only three or four of them were burned as martyrs, and no thrones were overset nor provinces ravaged, Voltaire termed these debates about niceties of diet _des sottises paisibles_.

In the reign of Henry VIII the minutes of the Lenten dinner included such fish as: a whole ling, great jowls of salt salmon, great salt eels, great jowls of salt sturgeon, fresh ling, fresh turbot, great pike, great jowls of fresh salmon, great rudds, baked turbots, salmon chines, roasted lampreys and roasted lamprons, great burbutts, and--when the fishing season was favourable--porpoise, sea-wolf, grampus, and whale.

A fairly compendious epitome of fish-food, but information is lacking as to the modes of preparation.

The most sensible remark on the fasting question was probably made by Erasmus, who said, when he was asked why he did not fast: “My mind is Catholic, but my stomach is Lutheran.” But then Erasmus was a very broad-minded sort of person. It is only necessary to read the finest novel in the English language, Charles Reade’s “Cloister and the Hearth,” to realize that fact.

For the dozenth time I was rereading “Eothen” the other day, and came upon a curious passage. Speaking of Smyrna, Kinglake says: “The number of murders committed during Lent is greater, I am told, than at any other time of the year. A man under the influence of a bean dietary (for this is the principal food of the Greeks during their fasts) will be in an apt humour for enriching the shrine of his saint, and passing a knife through his next-door neighbour.” _Que Messieurs les végéteriens commencent!_ What do they say to this? Do they feel especially bloodthirsty during Lent, or--being all-the-year-round vegetarians--do they lust after gore with any peculiar avidity?

It is curious to note that our favourite Lenten fare, salted cod and egg-sauce, to wit, is, strictly speaking, quite wrong. Eggs are not permissible food, and the orthodox eschew them altogether during their _jejunium_.

In Spain, during the crusades and the war with the Moors, a practice arose of permitting, in certain cases, the substitution of a contribution to the holy war for the observance of the Lenten abstinence, and although the object has long since ceased, the composition is still permitted under the same title of _Cruzada_.

In the seventh century a Council sitting at Toledo declared those who ate meat during Lent to be sinners unworthy to take part in the Resurrection. From that time until the eleventh century, when a gradual reaction set in, the laws of fasting and the punishments inflicted upon the transgressors became more and more strict; interdict and excommunication were among the penalties.

By degrees these became so numerous and different in kind that they were divided into

_Jejunium generale_--a fast binding for all. _Consuetudinarium_--local fast. _Penitentiale_--atonement for all transgressions. _Votivum_--consequent upon a vow. _Voluntare_--for the better carrying out of an undertaking.

These again were kept as

_Jejunium naturale_--an entire abstinence from food or drink. _Abstinentia_--certain food only, but several times a day. _Jejunium cum abstinentia_--the same food, but only once a day. _Jejunium sine abstinentia_--all kinds of food, but only once a day.

The prohibited food on partial fast days included, during certain periods, not only the flesh of quadrupeds, fowl, and fish, but also the _lacticinia_, which means all that comes from quadrupeds and birds, such as eggs, milk, butter, and the like.

There are many allusions in old plays to those folk who do not fast through Lent. For instance, in Skelton’s “Colin Clout” (1500) is the following passage:--

Men call you thereforr prophanes, Ye pieke no shrimps nor pranes; Salt fish, stockfish, nor herring, It is not for your wearing. Nor in holy Lenten season, Ye will neither Beanes nor Peasen, But ye look to be let loose, To a pigge or to a goose.

There is comparatively little strictness now as to Lenten food, but it is always an excuse for excellent _maigre_ dining, and the cook who cannot prepare a thoroughly good appetising and satisfying _maigre_ menu is unworthy of his calling.

One Good Friday I was dining at a very excellent French provincial hotel, the Hôtel du Chapeau-Rouge at Dunkirk, and the following most cleverly fashioned menu confronted me at dinner:--

Huîtres. Potage Longchamps. Bouchées Dunkerquoises. Barbue, Sauce d’Isigny. Pommes Nouvelles. Petit Pois à la Française. Salade Primeur. Saumon à la Russe. Ecrevisses de la Meuse. Gâteau Pitheviers. Fruits.

Here is another Lenten dinner, quite different in conception, but equally good in execution. It is a very artistic little production.

Caviar d’Astrackan. Bisque d’Ecrevisses. Truite braisée au Clicquot. Sarcelle Rôtie. Salade. Petits Pois nouveaux à la Française. Coupe Petit Duc. Corbeille de Friandises. Dessert.

A few years ago a noted French gourmet was taunted with the alleged fact that it was quite impossible to order a really expensive _maigre_ dinner; he retorted, as any sane gourmet naturally would, that it was the easiest thing in the world. He was given _carte blanche_, and the following was the result:--

Caviar frais. Huîtres (Natives). Œufs Grand-Duc. Bouchées Joinville. Truite saumonée au Chambertin. Sarcelles rôties. Salade Espérance. Aspic de homard en Bellevue. Asperges sauce Mousseline. Soufflé au kirsch. Corbeilles de fruits. Café.

VINS.

Eau-de-vie russe. Chablis, 1890. Johannisberg, 1886. Château-Léoville Poyferré, 1878. Romanée-Conti, 1865. Champagne frappé Baïkal (extra-dry), ’84. Château-Yquem, 1869. Grande fine-champagne Napoléon, 1800.

The dinner for four was exquisite, and the wines extraordinary. The total cost was just over twenty-five pounds.

In that delightful book, “Mrs. Brookfield and Her Circle,” by Charles and Frances Brookfield, there is this postscript to a letter written by the husband to his wife: “On the carte of the Carlton Club the day before yesterday (the General Fast) was to be seen these words: ‘The Committee, taking into consideration that the observance of a General Fast has been ordained, have directed that the coffee-room dinner shall be confined strictly to--Two Soups. Fish. Plain Joints. Spring Tarts. Omelettes. Cheese.’”

Another story from the same book, which although it has nothing whatever to do with Lent, has, perhaps, with food and feeding, runs as follows: “The new bishop of New Zealand, in a farewell and pathetic interview with his mother, after his appointment, was thus addressed by her in such sequence as sobs and tears would permit: ‘I suppose they will eat you, my dear--I try to think otherwise, but I suppose they will. Well!--We must leave it in the hands of Providence. But if they do--mind, my dear, and disagree with them.’”

That some at least of the less abstinent monks made very hearty meals and were quite valiant trenchermen, whether it were fast day or no, is a matter of history. At a splendid dinner given by the Legate of Avignon to the Prior of Chartreux, a superb fish, cooked to perfection and likely to have tempted the Pope himself had he been present, was handed to the Prior. He helped himself and was on the eve of eating, when one of the brothers said to him: “My father, do not touch that, it is not _maigre_. I went into the kitchen, and I saw things that would make you shudder; the sauce that you fancy is made from carrots and onions is made from ham and rabbits.” “My brother, you talk too much and are too curious,” replied the father; “the kitchen is not your place, and curiosity is a grievous sin.”

Beckford of “Vathek” fame gives a glowing account of the monastery of Alcobaça, and particularly of the kitchen thereof: “Through the centre of the immense and groined hall, not less than sixty feet in diameter, ran a brisk rivulet of the clearest water, flowing through pierced wooden reservoirs, containing every sort and size of the finest river fish. On one side loads of game and venison were heaped up; on the other vegetables and fruit in endless variety. Beyond a long line of stores, extended a row of ovens, and close to them hillocks of wheaten flour, whiter than snow, rocks of sugar, jars of the purest oil, and pastry in vast abundance, which a numerous tribe of lay-brothers and their attendants were rolling out and puffing up into a hundred different shapes, singing all the while as blithely as larks in a cornfield.” After describing the elaborate composition of the daily banquet of the monks, the author describes “a certain truffle cream which was so exquisite that the Lord Abbot piously gave thanks for it.”

A famous London character in the time of “Frazer’s Magazine” was Serjeant Murphy, M.P. for Cork. An acquaintance of Murphy’s was constantly addicted to boasting of his aristocratic friends. At a dinner-party where there were several Roman Catholics present, conversation centred round the subject of fasting, when the serjeant’s friend struck in: “It is very strange how little the highest ranks regard fast days. I was dining at the Duke of Norfolk’s on a fast day three weeks ago, and there was not a bit of fish at dinner.” “I suppose,” said Murphy, in the midst of the deep silence that followed, “that they had eaten it all in the dining-room.”

Chaucer writes of a man who

Full many a patrich had he in mewe, And many a breme and many a luce in stew.

The stew was, of course, the monkish fish-pond, which has almost disappeared since the Reformation. The luce is the jack or pike of the fishermen, and is often found as a pun upon the family name of Lucy, which bears the pike as a charge. Richard de Lucie, who defended the castle of Falaise against Geoffry of Anjou, was Lord Diss in Norfolk; he was also Sheriff of Essex in the reign of Henry II, and built the castle of Ongar. Sir Richard Lucy, Lord Chief Justice of England, founded Lesnes Priory, near Erith, and dying in 1179, was buried within its walls. An antiquary named Weever, who had seen his tomb in 1630, states that upon the belt of the figure of the knight the fleur-de-lis, or fleur-de-luce, the rebus or name device of the Lucys, was sculptured in many places. The fleur-de-lis was here used in a doubly figurative sense for a pike or spear, to the head of which it bears some resemblance.

This is more particularly shown in the Cantelupe arms, gules, a fess vaire between three leopards’ heads jessant fleur-de-lis. The arms of Lucy are also among the quarterings borne by the family of Lowther, the head of which is, of course, Lord Lonsdale.

Certain fish, evidently intended for pike or luces, in the pavement of the Chapter House at Westminster may possibly allude to the early tradition that St. Peter’s Church was first built by King Lucius.

The ged and the pike are synonymous in North Britain, whence the Scots family of Ged bear for arms, azure, three geds, or pike, hauriant argent; Sir Walter Scott alludes to this play upon the name in Red Gauntlet. “The heralds,” he says, “who make graven images of fish, fowls, and beasts, assigned the ged for their device and escutcheon, and hewed it over their chimneys, and placed above their tombs the fish called a jack, pike, or luce, and in our tongue, a ged.”

Of this family was William Ged, an Edinburgh printer, who employed a stereotyping process as early as 1725. The Geddes, a very ancient family of Tweeddale, bear for arms, gules, an escutcheon between three luces’ heads couped argent.

Much of the good purpose of a close adherence to strict Lenten fare has no doubt been lost by our continued neglect of the manifold uses of herbs.

Amid all the talking and writing about vegetarianism very little attention seems to have been paid to the undoubted importance of the herb garden.

Our forefathers believed implicitly in the virtues of herbs, and extolled them in prose and verse. According to one of the old Roxburghe Ballads:--

Here’s pennyroyal and marygolds, Come, buy my nettle-tops. Here’s water-cresses and scurvy-grass, Come, buy my sage of virtue, ho! Come, buy my wormwood and mugworts. Here’s all fine herbs of every sort; Here’s southernwood that’s very good, Dandelion and horseleek. Here’s dragon’s-tongue and wood-sorrel, With bear’s-foot and horehound. Let none despise the merry, merry cries Of famous London Town!

Most of these formerly well-known herbs, each having its own peculiar curative quality, are nowadays practically unknown, but a reference to old John Parkinson, or the herbals of Gerard or Turner, or the “Acetaria” of John Evelyn, would readily show that they were good for the various ills to which flesh is heir. The very earliest medicaments were largely composed of herbs, and even to-day the learned prescription of a Harley Street two-guinea specialist usually contains at least one ingredient which, under a more formal Latin name, is neither more nor less than a “garden simple” or herb.

The common marigold, for instance, which Gerard calls “the Jackanapes-on-Horseback,” was at one time much used for soups or “pottages.” In Miss Edgeworth’s story of “Simple Susan” she explains how the petals of marigolds were added, as the last touch, to the broth made for an invalid mother. Evelyn compares the common bugloss to the nepenthe of Homer, but adds that what we now call bugloss was not that of the ancients, but rather borage, “for the like virtue named corrago.”

Smallage was, of course, simply wild celery, which Parkinson says is “somewhat like parsley, but greater, greener, and more bitter.” Sweet cicely, or sweet chervil, is a kind of myrrh--“it adds a marvellous good relish to a sallet,” and the roots may be preserved or candied. The genial Culpepper, in his “English Physician Enlarged” (1565), has much to say as to the astrological virtues of the different herbs, and although his ascription of plants to their respective planets must be taken _cum grano salis_, yet he is wonderfully near the mark in many instances which he quotes as to the effect of the herb if taken as a medicine. This, for instance, is what he has to say about balm: “It is a herb of Jupiter and under Cancer, and strengthens nature much in all its actions. It causeth the mind and heart to become merry and reviveth the heart, especially of such who are overtaken in sleep, and driveth away all troublesome cares and thoughts out of the mind arising from melancholy or black choler.”

Nowadays we certainly neglect herbs, although here and there an old-fashioned gardener plants his herbs from year to year. There are still quaint old herb shops in Covent Garden, where the “simples” of our grandmothers may be bought; and there are curious customs at the Guildhall and the Old Bailey of the presentation of bunches of herbs to the presiding justices as a reminiscence of the time when their perfume was supposed to counteract the germs of plague.

It is easy to cultivate a herb garden, and amid modern “improvements” of flowers of all sorts it imparts a delightful old-world fragrance to the completeness of the pleasaunce. Moreover, herbs make the most exquisite addition to nearly every form of cookery.

Reverting to Lent and its customs, it is notable, according to old John Selden’s “Table Talk” (1689), that “our meats and our sports, much of them, have relation to Church works. The coffin of our Christmas pies in shape long, is in imitation of the cratch; our choosing kings and queens on Twelfth-night hath reference to the three kings. So, likewise, our eating of fritters, whipping of tops, roasting of herrings, Jack of Lents, etc.--they are all in imitation of Church works, emblems of martyrdom. Our tansies at Easter have reference to the bitter herbs; though at the same time, it was always the fashion for a man to have a gammon of bacon to show himself to be no Jew.”

We have it (on perhaps somewhat doubtful authority) that the most ingenious method of fasting is that recorded in the “Mappemonde Papistique,” wherein it appears that a Venetian saint had certain boxes made like mass books, and these book-boxes were filled, some with Malmsey wine, and some with the fleshiest parts of capons and partridges. These were supposed to be books of devotion, and the saint is said to have lived long and grown fat on them.

A peculiarly villainous form of torture was invented by Galeazzo Visconti (1355), which was known as Galeazzo’s Lent, because it was guaranteed to prolong the life of the unfortunate victim for forty days. This seems to have been one of the few traits of inherited family cruelty in a man who otherwise was a sort of Mæcenas of his time. He was a friend and patron of Petrarch, founded, under his direction, the University of Pavia, and brought together a considerable library.

According to Walsh, it is not generally known that the use of flesh, meat, eggs, and milk during Lent was forbidden in England, not only by ecclesiastical but also by statute law, even into the time of William III. Any violation of the law was followed by dire penalties. There is the case of the landlady of the Rose Tavern, St. Catherine’s Tower, London, in whose house during the Lent of 1563 was found a quantity of raw and cooked meat. She and four other women who were proved to have partaken of the forbidden viands were put in the stocks all night. In 1570 was passed a statute making the penalties for violating the Lenten laws sixty shillings and three months imprisonment.

Finally, as an apposite curiosity, I will quote a curious dispensation granted two hundred and seventy-six years ago and formally recorded in the parish register of Wakefield.

“To all people to whom these presents shall come, James Lister, Vicar of Wakefield, and preacher of God’s word, sendeth greeting: Whereas Alice Lister wife of Richard Lister Clerke who now soiourneth with her sonne Willm Paulden of Wakefield, by reason of her old age & many years & state, and long-contynued sickness is become so weake, and her stomack so colde, not able to digest colde meates and fish, who by the counsell of Physicions is advised to absteine from and to forbeare the eateng of all manner of fruits, fish and milk meates: Know yee therefoor for the causes aforesaide and for the better strengthening & recovery of her health, I the saide James Lister do hereby give & grant libertie and licence to her the saide Alice Lister att her will and pleasure att all tymes, as well during the tyme of Lent, as upon other fasting daies and fish daies (exhibiting by the laws to eate flesh) to dresse and eate such kind of fleshe as shal be best agreing to her stomach & weake appetite. In witnes hereof I the saide James Lister have hereunto sett my hand the eight day of ffebuary in the sixt year of the Reine of our Soveraigne Lord Charles by the Grace of God King of England Scotland ffrance and Ireland Defender of the Faith &c and in the yeare of our Lord god 1630 James Lister.”

INDEX

Aberdour oysters, 166

Abstinence, 247

“Academy” menu, 139

“Accomplish’d Housewife,” 84

“Accomplish’d Lady Rich’s Closet,” 109

“Acetaria,” 64, 257

Acrostic dinner, 138

Acton, Eliza, 151

“Adam’s Luxury and Eve’s Cookery,” 84

Addison, 106

Ætius, 176

Agris of Rhodes, 112

“Alarm to all Persons,” 84

“Alchemist, The,” 39

“Alice in Wonderland” menu, 142

“All’s Well That Ends Well,” 86

“Almanach des Gourmands,” 44, 225

America and snails, 207

American dinner, 117

„ oysters, 183

Amory, Blanche, 23

Angel pie, 151

Anthony, Saint, 63

Apprenticeship of cooks, 239

“Archidipno,” 71

“Art of Cookery made Plain and Easy,” 85

“Art of Dining,” 88

Artificial snails, 213

Arundel, Earl of, 206, 209

Ashburn (or Ashburner), Mrs., 85

“Atall, Dr.,” 83

Athanasius, Saint, 63

Athenæus, 39, 178

Athenian waiters, 201

Atlantus, 112

Austen, Jane, 22, 27

Austrian snails, 215

Autun, Bishop of, 206

Avignon, Legate of, 252

Ayen, Duc d’, 225

Azèma, 227

Baba, 226

Babiroussa, 233

Ball-supper menu, 147

“Ballade of Simpson’s,” 53

Ballantyne, James, 105

_Ballotine de Perdreau Souvaroff_, 152

Banana menu, 142

Banks, Sir Joseph, 71

Banville, Th. de, 42

_Barbe de Capucin_, 103

Barlow on hasty pudding, 43

Baskets, Luncheon, 99

Bavarian menu, 150

“B.C. The First Oyster,” 168

Beans as incentive to murder, 245

Beaufremont, Prince de, 225

Beaumont and Fletcher, 87

Béchamel, Marquis de, 223

Beckford, 252

Beef, Corned, 37

Beef Steaks, Society of, 57

_Béhague_, 12, 13

Bell, Peter, 32

Benger, 156

Bennett, Mrs., 27

Béranger, 42

Berchoux, J., 46, 48

Beresford, Rev. Mr., 82

Berkeley Hotel, 25

Berri, Duchesse de, 222

Bertrand, 223

Besant, Sir Walter, 104

_Bibliophile, Jacob le_, 231

Bill of fare, 139

Bingley, 27

Birch of Cornhill, 31

Black, Professor, 217

Blair, Mrs. Hy. W., 118

Blake, Wm., 93

_Blinis_, 115, 149

Blue Posts, Cork Street, 31

“Book of Menus,” 16

“Book without a Name,” 3

“Book of the Table,” 14

Booth, J. L. C., 202

Borodino, Battle of, 90

_Bortsch_, 22, 115

Boswell, 82

_Boudin de Poulet à la Richelieu_, 225

_Bouillabaisse_, 42

Boulanger, 236

“Bourgeois Gentilhomme,” 234

Bradyphagia, 90

Braithwaite, 239

Brallaghan, 45

Briggs, Richard, 126

Brillat-Savarin, 11, 23, 175, 226

Bristol Waters, 40

“British Birds,” 45, 60, 72

British boy cooks, 239

British Waiters’ Association, 200

Brookfield, Chas., 75, 251

“Brookfield, Mrs., and Her Circle,” 251

Browne, Sir Thomas, 62

Browning, 42

Burke, Edmund, 7

Burns, 42

Byron, Lord, 62, 68

Cade, Jack, 63

Cadmus, 15

Café de la France, 232

_Cailles à la Mirepoix_, 222

“Cakes and Ale,” 151

_Canard à la Rouennaise_, 146, 147

Capus, Alfred, 147

Caraffa, Cardinal, 68

Carême, 5, 97, 135, 227, 234

Carlingford oysters, 166

Carlton Club, 251

„ Hotel, 22, 93, 138, 149

Carr, 88

Carroll, Lewis, 170, 189

“Causerie Culinaire,” 228

C. C. R., 61

Cecil, Hotel, 26

Cedd, Saint, 243

Celsinius, 224

Cervantes, 29

Champeaux’ Restaurant, 132

Chapelle, Vincent de la, 225

Chaptal, 70

Chariades, 112

Charles V of Spain, 206

_Chartreuse à la Cardinal_, 225

_Chartreuse à la Mauconseil_, 223

Chartreux, Prior of, 252

Chateaubriand, Origin of, 132

Chatillon-Plessis, 47

Chaucer, 62

Cheese recipe, 52

Cheremetoff, Prince, 187

“Cheshire Cheese,” Fleet Street, 31, 46

Chesterton, G. K., 129

_Chicorée de Bruxelles_, 103

Chinese Books on Behaviour, 110

„ menu, 119

„ restaurant, 118

Christmas cookery, 125

„ dinner, 128

„ menus, 127, 128

Cicero, 176

Clams, 117

Clark, Sir Andrew, 157

Cleopatra, 63

“Clinker, Humphry,” 6, 40

Close, 148

Clough, Arthur Henry, 43

Cochin, 49

Cogan, 67

Coigny, Duc de, 225

“Cloister and the Hearth,” 245

Colchester epitaph, 166

„ Oyster Feast, 180

Coleridge, S., 42

“Colin Clout,” 248

Collins, Mortimer, 45, 59, 72

Commodus, 224

“Compleat Cook,” 84

_Consommé Sarah Bernhardt_, 227

“Cook Book, The Poetical,” 43

“Cookery, Art of,” 44

Cookery and Food Association, 90

Cookery of snails, 211

„ Roman, 40

“Cook-maid’s Garland,” 54

“Cook’s Director,” 84

Cooper, E. H., 238

_Cordon Bleu_, 3

Corks, 193

Corned Beef, 37

Corneille, 108

_Cornez le diner_, 37

Cosmopolitan dining in London, 113, 117

_Côtelettes de Mouton à la Maintenon_, 221

Coventry, Lady, 104

“Coy Cook Maid, The,” 55

Crabbe, 42

“Cranford,” 28

_Crêtes de Coq_, 102

Criterion Restaurant, 34

_Croustades à la Coquelin_, 227

_Cruzada_, 246

_Cuisinière Poétique, la_, 42

“Culina Famulatrix Medicinæ,” 88

Culpepper, 258

“Cupboard Papers,” 16

Curry, 123

D’Albignac, 71

Dallas, E. S., 11, 14

_Dampfnudeln_, 115

Dartmoor mutton, 204

D’Aubigné, 71

Decoration of dinner-table, 159, 161

Defoe, Daniel, 212

“Deipnosophists, The,” 45

Delaney, Mrs., 206

“Délices de la Campagne,” 178

_Demi-deuil_, 23

“De Opsoniis,” 224

Derby-day dinner, 134

„ menu, 134

Desvergers, 75

“Deutsche Medizinische Wochenschrift,” 201

Dickens, Charles, 179, 180

Didius Julianus, 224

Didsbury, P. Z., 190

Dieting, 157

Dieudonné’s Restaurant, 114

Digestion, 92

Dilly, Edward and Charles, 82

_Diner, Le_, 43

Dining fads, 157

Dining in the open air, 95

Dinner, American, 117

„ Christmas, 128

„ Derby-day, 134

„ French, 114

„ German, 115

„ Indian, 124

„ Italian, 114, 123

„ Japanese, 141

„ King Edward’s, 134

„ Parisian, 132

„ Queen’s Guard, 130

„ Royal Wedding, 136

Dionysius, 39

Dipsychus, 43

“Dr. Salmon’s Cookery,” 84

Dodsley on butter, 43

Doran, Dr., 71

Douillet, Le Père, 224

Dresden, Battle of, 90

Driver’s oyster house, 171

Dryden, 42

Dumas, Alex., fils, 74

„ „ père, 4, 42, 228

Earl’s Court Exhibition, 95

Eating songs, 41

Echo Pits, Guildford, 209

Edgeworth, Miss, 258

Edinburgh Oyster Feast, 181

Einhorn, Dr. Max, 90

Elephants’ feet, 233

Elliott, Thos., of Tuzzliehope, 105

Elsey, F. H., 208, 209

_Emigré_ salad maker, 71

“English Art of Cookery,” 126

English Menu, 139

“English Physician Enlarged,” 258

“Englishman, An, in Paris,” 228

“Eothen,” 245

“Epicure’s Almanack,” 31

“Epicure’s Year Book,” 16

Epicureanism, 45

Epitaph on Colchester man, 166

Erasmus, 245

Escoffier, 138

_Escudella_, 115

_Estofado_, 115

_Etude sur la Moutarde_, 234

Euphagia, 90, 91

Euthymus, 112

Evans’s, Covent Garden, 34

Evelyn, John, 64, 209, 257

Faddism, 156

“Family Cook,” 84

Fasts: different kinds, 247

Feast of Shells, Edinburgh, 181

„ Oysters, Colchester, 180

Fernie, Dr. W. T., 207

_Filets de Lapereau à la Berri_, 222

_Filets de Sole à la Belle Otèro_, 227

_Filets de Sole en Goujon_, 145

_Filets de Volaille à la Bellevue_, 222

Fillets of kangaroo, 233

Fin Bec, 16

First oyster, 168, 169

_Fleisch Brühe_, 115

Fletcher, Horace, 156

Flowers, Japanese grammar of, 160

Food and Cookery Association, 241

“Fool’s Year, A,” 238

Fortnum and Mason, 153

Fourcroy, 70

Francatelli, 212

“Francillon,” 74

Francis of Assisi, St., 243

“Frazer’s Magazine,” 253

French dinner, 114

Fronto, Julius, 224

Fulvius Hirpinus, 177

Galen, 65

Galeazzo’s Lent, 261

Galitzine, Prince Léon, 143

Gallienne, R. de, 41

Gambrinus Restaurant, 115

Gardeton, César, 173

Garum, 40

Gascoign Powder, 78

Gaskell, Mrs., 28

_Gaspacho_, 115

“Gastronome, La,” 48

Gastronomes, Réunion des, 17

“Gastronomie pour rire,” 173

Gaudet, 71

Gautier, Th., 42

Gay, 42, 184

Ged, Wm., 255, 256

“Génie, Le, du Christianisme,” 133

Graham, Cunninghame, 29

Grammar of flowers, Japanese, 160

Grand International Hotel, Chicago, 53

“Grand Dictionnaire de la Cuisine,” 232

Gravelot, 49

Green peas from Algiers, 101

Greville Memoirs, 38

Grignon, 234

Gubbins, Mr., 151

Guildford, 209

Gunter’s, 31

“Gentlewoman’s Delight,” 67

George III, 10

„ IV, 57, 135

Gerard’s Herbal, 257

German dinner, 115

„ snails, 214

_Gigot à la Mailly_, 223

_Gigot à la Richelieu_, 225

Gilly-flowers, 66

Gipsies and snails, 207

Gladstone, Mr., 89

Globe Tavern, 126

Gloucestershire snails, 208

Godwin-Austen, Lt.-Col., 209

Goethe, 42, 106

Golden Cross Hotel, 31

Gorse, De la, 225

Gourmands, Almanach des, 44, 225

Gourmets, Female, 23

Goutant, Duc de, 225

Halcyons’ nests, 234

Hall, Herbert Byng, 167

Hampshire snails, 208

Hampton’s oyster house, 171

Hardy, Thomas, 170

Hare, W. R., 174

_Haricots verts gris_, 102

Harrison, Wm., 108

Hatchett’s Restaurant, 31

Havana, 141

“Haven of Health,” 67

Hayward, Abraham, q.c., 88

Hearn, Lafcadio, 57

Heine, 42

Helford natives, 166

_Helicin_, 207

_Helix caperata_, 204

„ _pomatia_, 208

Héloise and Abélard, 175

Henry VIII, 244

Heraldic fish, 254

Herbs, 256

Herb shops, 259

Hertford, Lord, 104

Herrick, Robert, 213

Hetzel, P. J., 80

Hieronymus, Saint, 63

Hill, Dr. John, 82

„ Miss, 9

Hirst, Francis W., 217

Hocco, 234

Hoffmann, 90

Holborn Restaurant, 34

Holbrook, Mr., 28

Holmes, Oliver Wendell, 183

_Homard à l’Americaine_, 53

Honours, Musical, 36

Hood, Tom, 182

Horace, 176

Horsley, Canon, 209

Hôtel Chapeau Rouge, Dunkirk, 248

Hôtel de la Cloche et de la Bouteille, 233

Hotels, British, 98

Hot-weather dining, 77, 163, 164

Hot-weather menus, 163, 164

“Household of Sir Thomas More,” 93

“Housekeeper’s Oracle,” 6

_Huîtres de Marennes_, 171

„ _d’Ostende_, 171

Hunter, Dr., 88

Hutton, Professor, 217

Huxley, Professor, 168

“Illustrated Index of British Shells,” 208

“Impressions de Voyage,” 228

Indian dinner, 124

„ restaurant, 123

Isouard, Nicolo, 186

Italian dinner, 114

„ menu, 123

„ snails, 209

“Italie et la France,” 138

Jackanapes-on-horseback, 258

Japanese dinner, 141

„ grammar of flowers, 160

„ menu, 120, 141

„ salad, 74

Jaucourt, M. de, 9

Jenner, Dr., 52

Jerome K. Jerome, 200

Jerrold, Blanchard, 16

Jersey oysters, 166

John XXII, Pope, 244

Johnson, Dr., 82, 162

Jongmanns, Herr, 34

Joseph, 18, 38

“Jubber’s,” Bond Street, 31

June, Sonnet to, 60

Juniper Hall, 9

Juvenal, 176

Kabobs, 115

_Kalbskotlette_, 115

Kangaroo fillets, 233

_Karpfe in Bier_, 115

Keech, G., 51

Kenealy, Dr., 45

Kenelm, Sir Digby, 206

Kentish snails, 208

“Kettner’s Book of the Table,” 14

Kettner’s Restaurant, 114

“Kidder’s Receipts,” 84

“Killmansegg, Miss, and Her Golden Leg,” 182

King, Dr. Wm., 43, 68

King Edward’s dinner, 134

Kinglake, 245

King of snails, 217

Kitchen, Language of, 14

Kitchiner, Dr., 6, 81, 167

_Kokoro_, 57

_Koulbiac_, 115

Kron, Professor, 201

Lacroix, 231

_Lacticinia_, 247

Lady Honeywood’s snail water, 212

“Lady’s Companion,” 78

Lampriadas, 112

“Lancet, The,” 210

Landor, W. S., 42

Laperte, M., 175

Laroche, 74

_Latin de Cuisine_, 150

Latin menu, 150

Laughing at dinner, 92, 93

Laurens, 10

_Lauris_ asparagus, 101

“Lawyer’s Fortune, The,” 68

Leczinska, Marian, 222

Leczinski, King Stanislas, 225

Leighton, Lord, 168

Leipzig, Battle of, 90

“Lemery on Food,” 84

Lent menus, 249, 250

„ Galeazzo’s, 261

„ murders, 245

Lentillus, 112

Lettuce, 65

“Life is but a Melancholy Flower,” 50

Ligne, Prince de, 7

Lister, Dr., 44

Littré, 70

“Londoner’s Logbook,” 164

“London Gazette,” 212

London Tavern, 31

Long’s Hotel, Bond Street, 31

Louis XIV, 220

„ XV, 220

„ XVIII, 223

“Love’s Pilgrimage,” 87

Luce, 254

Luncheon baskets, 99

Lytton, Bulwer, 108

Macaroncello, 228

Macarius, Saint, 242

_Mâche_, 103

“Magistrate, The,” 192

Magny, 234

_Maigre_ menus, 249, 250

Maintenon, Madame de, 221

Mammon, Sir Epicure, 39

“Man and Superman,” 237

“Mappemonde Papistique,” 261

Maréchal Saxe, 148

Marie, 3

Markham, Gervase, 66

Marr, M. de la, 207

Martial, 176

Massonio, Salvatore, 70

Mathieu, 148

Matius, Julius, 224

Maupassant, Guy de, 237

Mayo, 82

Mayonnaise, 55

“Meals Medicinal,” 207

Melford, Miss Lydia, 40

Ménager, M., 5

Menon, 97, 224

Menu, “Academy,” 139

„ Acrostic, 138

„ “Alice in Wonderland,” 142

„ Ball-supper, 147

„ Banana, 142

„ Bavarian, 150

„ Carlton Hotel, 149

„ Chinese, 119

„ Christmas, 127, 128

„ Derby-day, 134

„ English, 139, 140

„ Galitzine, Prince, 144

„ Hot-weather, 163, 164

„ Indian, 124

„ Italian, 123

„ Japanese, 120, 141

„ Latin, 150

„ literal translation, 139

„ Parisian, 132

„ Picnic, 153

„ Prince’s Restaurant, 154

„ Queen’s Guard, 130

„ Royal Society of St. George, 140

„ Savoy Hotel, 145, 155

„ Spanish, 122

„ Swedish, 121

„ Windsor Castle, 136

Menus, 16, 17, 24

“Menus, Book of,” 16

“Menus for Lent,” 249, 250

„ _maigres_, 249, 250

Méry, 42

_Meyerbeer, Œufs à la_, 27

Millais, Sir J. E., 168

_Minestrone_, 114

“Minora Carmina,” 60

Mirabolant, 23

“Miscellanies: a Variety,” 1

“Modern Cook,” V. la Chapelle, 84, 212

Molière, 58, 91, 234

Monselet, Charles, 42

Monsiau, 49

Montaigne, 67

“Monte Cristo,” 233

Moore, Thomas, 42

Morgan, Lady, 3

Morris, Captain Charles, 57

Motor luncheons, 99

Mouret, Pierre, 136

Moustier, 225

Murders in Lent, 245

Murphy, Serjeant, 253

Murray, Grenville, 71

Music at restaurants, 31

Mutton, Boiled, 27

„ Dartmoor, 204

„ South Down, 204

“My Cookery Books,” 89

Napoleon, 89, 135, 226

“Nearly Seven,” 75

Nereus of Corinth, 112

Nesle, Marquis de, 223

Newcastle Snail Feast, 208

New England Indian pudding, 118

Nicolo, Isouard, 186

“Noctes Ambrosianæ,” 167

Norfolk, Duke of, 254

“North British Review,” 168

North, Christopher, 167

“Nunc est Cœnandum,” 61

Oddenino, 115

Okra, 117

“On the Search for a Dinner,” 174

Open-air dining, 95

Oribasius, 176

Onions, 112

Ow, Baron von, 150

Owenson, Sidney, 3

Oysters, American, 183

„ appropriate drinks, 172

„ Boiled, 174

„ Feast, Colchester, 180

„ „ Edinburgh, 181

„ Poor man’s, 209

„ whistling, 181

Pagani’s Restaurant, 114

_Pain à la d’Orléans_, 222

Palais Royal, 75

Parkinson, John, 257

Parisian menu, 132

_Pâté de Foie Gras_, 148

Pauillac lamb, 101

Pearls, 185

_Pêche Melba_, 227

“Pelham,” 108

Pennell, Mrs. Joseph, 89

_Perche à la Gaubert_, 227

Père-la-Chaise, 175

_Petites Bouchées à la Reine_, 222

Petrarch, 261

Philip, John, 179

“Pickwick Papers,” 179, 180

Picnic menu, 153

Picnics, 151

Pike, 254

Pinero, A. W., 192

_Pinna marina_, 185

“Plebeian Polished, The,” 6

Pliny, 176, 205

Plum pudding, 126

“Poems of Good Cheer,” 48

“Poetical Cook Book,” 43

Polignac, Marquis de, 225

_Pollio alla Contrabandista_, 114

Pompadour, 222

Poor man’s oyster, 209

_Potage à la Camerani_, 225

„ „ _Dumesnil_, 227

_Poularde à la Georges Sand_, 227

„ „ _Basilic_, 225

„ _de Bresse_, 102

_Poularde à la Montmorency_, 222

_Poule-au-pot Henri IV_, 145

_Poulet du Mans_, 102

„ _à la Marengo_, 226

„ „ _Villeroy_, 222

Powldoodies, 166

_Pré Salé_, 101

_Primeurs_, 101, 103

Prince’s Restaurant, 24, 154, 227

_Prinz Pückler_, 124

“Propos d’Art et de Cuisine,” 228

Prunier’s Restaurant, 211

Pryor, 42

_Purée Buffon_, 227

“Putting the change to bed,” 191

“Quadragesimal Spirituel, Le,” 63

“Quarterly Review,” 88

Queen’s Guard dinner, 130

Queen Victoria, 136

Quixote, Don, 29

Rabelais, 70

Rabisha, Will, 178

Radunski, 197

Reade, Charles, 245

“Redgauntlet,” 256

Reform Club, 49

Reichemberg, 74

“Religio Medici,” 62

Restaurant, Chinese, 118

„ Indian, 123

„ manners, 29

„ music, 31

„ Origin of, 236

“Return of the Native,” 170

_Réunion des Gastronomes_, 17

Reynière, Grimod de la, 11, 44, 129, 225, 234

Rhys, C. C., 61

Richard II, 66

Richelieu, Cardinal, 225

_Ris d’Agneau à l’Amiral_, 152

Roche, M., 102

Rocher du Cancale, 174

Rogers, S., 42

Rohan, Cardinal, 148

_Romaine_, 103

Roman cookery, 40

Roqueplan, Nestor, 20

Rossini, 37

Rousseau, 70

Roxburghe Ballads, 54, 84, 257

Royal Society of St. George, 140

„ Wedding dinner, 136

“Rudder Grange,” 112

“Rules and Orders for Government,” 239

Rule’s oyster house, 171

Russell, G. W. E., 164

Saint Anthony, 63

„ Athanasius, 63

„ Cedd, 243

„ Francis of Assisi, 243

„ Hieronymus, 63

„ Macarius, 242

Sala, G. A., 11, 33, 86, 87, 177

“Salade d’Oranges,” 75

_Salade Rachel_, 227

Salad, 153

„ Laureateship, 72

„ to keep fresh, 100

„ _de la Grande Jeanne_, 79

„ _Japonaise_, 74

„ Thompson, Sir Henry, 79

„ “Vanity Fair,” 77

Sallets, 64, 67, 258

Sauce mayonnaise, 55

„ _à la Soubise_, 223

Savoy Hotel, 18, 145, 155

Saxe, Maréchal, 148

Scholl, Aurélien, 42

“Schoole of Vertue,” 110

Schools for waiters, 197

Schütze, Dr. J. F., 69

Scott, Sir Walter, 105, 256

Scott’s oyster house, 171

Seager, 110

Seiden, John, 260

“Select Conversations with an Uncle,” 10

Seneca, 176

Seven Sages of the Kitchen, 112

Seward, Miss, 82

Shakespeare, 42, 63, 86

Shaw, G. Bernard, 237

Ship Tavern, Charing Cross, 31

Shortreed, Mr., 105

Sidon, King of, 15

Simeon Stylites, 242

“Simple Susan,” 258

Sims, Geo. R., 53

Sixtus the Fifth, Pope, 69

Sjalouschine, 187

Skelton, 248

Smallage, 258

Smith, Adam, 217

Smith, Sydney, 43, 45

“Smith’s Cookery,” 84

_Smorgasbord_, 115

Snail Feast at Newcastle, 208

„ spirals, 217

Snails, 203

„ Artificial, 213

„ for America, 207

„ in Austria, 215

„ Close time for, 204

„ Cooking of, 211

„ first brought to England, 206

„ French, 203

„ in Germany, 214

„ in Gloucestershire, 208

„ from Italy, 209

„ in Hampshire, 208

„ in Kent, 208

„ King of, 217

„ Paris consumption, 203

„ _à la Provençale_, 233

„ in Surrey, 206

„ in Sussex, 206

„ as window-cleaners, 218

_Société des Amis des Livres_, 127

_Société Scientifique d’Hygiène, La_, 146

Society of Beef Steaks, 57

Society of St. George, 140

_Sole à la Pagani_, 114

Sonnet sequence, 60

“Sophie,” 4, 229

_Sot (Le) l’y laisse_, 129

Soubise, Prince de, 223

_Soupe à la Condé_, 223

„ „ _Lamartine_, 227

„ „ _Victor Hugo_, 227

“Soupers de la Cour, Les,” 96, 224

South Down mutton, 204

Sowerby, 208

Soyer, Alexis, 40, 49

Spanish menu, 122

Spenser, Edmund, 209

Spirals on snails, 217

“Splendid Shilling, The,” 179

Stahl, P. J., 80

Stella, 173

Stephens, Mrs. Joanna, 212

Stockton, Frank, 112

Strasburg, 148

Stschi, 115, 149

Stylites, Simeon, 242

Sublime Society of Beef Steaks, 57

“Sufferings of the Clergy,” 110

Suckling, Sir John, 46, 213

_Sullivan, Œufs à la_, 38

Surrey Archæological Museum, 209

Surrey Archæological Society, 208

Surrey snails, 206

Sussex snails, 206

Swan, to roast, 51

Swan Hotel, Weymouth, 51

Swedish menu, 121

Sweeting’s oyster house, 171

„ Rents, 31

Swift, Dean, 173

Sybarites, 110

“Tabella Cibaria,” 177

Table decoration, 159

“Table Talk,” 260

“Table Traits,” 71

Tachyphagia, 90

Talleyrand, 134

“Tatler, The,” 106, 179

Temple Coffee House, 126

Terrapin, 117

Thackeray, W. M., 23, 42, 46, 184

_Théâtre Français_, 74

Thompson, Sir Henry, 2, 38, 79, 128

Thudichum, Dr., 88

Toledo Council, 246

“Transmigration,” 88

“Triall of Feasting,” 93

“Trouble in the Balkans,” 202

Tschi, 149

Tsiganes, 35

“Turner’s Herbal,” 257

Turkey, Cookery of, 45

“Use and Abuse of Salads,” 69

Uzanne, Achille, 47

Vacchi, Allessandro, 5

Vaerst, Baron von, 63

Vallière, Duc de la, 225

“Vanity Fair” salad, 77

Varin, 75

Varro, 224

Vathek, 252

Véfour, 234

Vegetarians, 158

Véron, Dr., 4, 229

Villeroy, Duchesse de, 222

Villon, 42

Visconti, Galeazzo, 261

Vitellius, 224

_Vol-au-vent à la Nesle_, 223

Voltaire, 244

Vuillemot, D. J., 232

Wadsworth, J. H., 46

_Wagner, Œufs à la_, 37

Waiters, Athenian, 201

„ British Association of, 200

Waiters’ Schools, 197

Walker, Thomas, 11

„ Dr., 110

Waller, W. F., 82, 86

Walpole, Horace, 104

“Walrus and the Carpenter,” 170

Waring, Henry, 1

Washington, George, 183

Watts, G. F. (R.A.), 168

Weever, 255

Weller, Sam, 180

„ Mr., senior, 180

Wellington, Duke of, 162

Wells, H. G., 10

Westminster Chapter House, 255

Whipping a pig to death, 106

Whispered Pandores, 166

Whistling oyster, 181

White Hart Tavern, 126

Windsor Castle, 136

Window-cleaning snails, 218

Women at dinner, 20

Woodhouse, Emma, 28

Wordsworth, 32

Workmen’s Compensation Act, 213

Yates, Edmund, 17

Yeo, Dr., 209

Zacharias, Pope, 244

_Zakuska_, 115

PLYMOUTH: W. BRENDON AND SON, LTD., PRINTERS

BY THE SAME AUTHOR

_Crown 8vo. Price 3s. 6d. net._

THE CULT OF THE CHAFING DISH

_CONTENTS._

I. THE CHAFING DISH. II. PRELIMINARIES. III. SOUPS. IV. FISH. V. FLESH AND FOWL. VI. VEGETABLES AND SALADS. VII. EGGS AND SAVOURIES. VIII. SAUCES. IX. SWEETS AND ODDMENTS. X. AMENITIES OF THE TABLE. INDEX.

LONDON: GAY & BIRD, 22 BEDFORD STREET, STRAND.

Transcriber’s Note:

Words and phrases in italics are surrounded by underscores, _like this_. Words may have multiple spelling variations or inconsistent hyphenation. Obsolete and alternative spellings were not unchanged. Eight misspelled words were corrected. Final stops missing at the end of sentences and abbreviations were added. Diacritics were adjusted, as appropriate.