CHAPTER XV.

WEFT-COLOURED FIGURED FABRICS--CURL TEXTURES.

239. Warp and Weft Colouring compared--240. Classes of Designs Coloured in the Weft--241. Designs in which the Pattern is a product of the Ground Weft--242. Extra-Weft Styles--243. Vestings--244. Vestings with one Extra Weft--245. Two-Cover Vestings--246. Four-Cover Styles--247. Honeycomb Vestings--248. Two-Cover Colouring--249. Four-Cover Designing--250. Paisley Shawl Colouring--251. Compound-Weft Reversibles--252. Warp and Weft Coloured Figuring--253. Curls, Textiles of the Astrakhan Group--254. Four Types of Curled Effects--255. Curls obtained by Wires--256. Process of Weaving Curls produced by Wires--257. Curls formed by the Weft in which the Warp is Cotton--258. The Weave of Weft Curls--259. Structure of Weft-Curl Fabrics--260. Operation of Cutting after Weaving--261. Curls developed by Milling--262. Points of dissimilarity in the various Builds of Curled Textures--263. Two kinds of Curls developed by Milling--264. Spiral Threads used for Warp--265. Variety of Pattern in Spiral-Warp Curls due to Colour--266. Twist-Yarn Cotton Warp Curls--267. Backed Weaves for Curled Cloths--268. Essential Characteristics of Cotton Warp Curls due to Milling--269. Examples in Designs for Cotton Warp Curls 335-367

INDEX 368

LIST OF COLOURED PLATES.

PLATE TO FACE PAGE I. A = Spectrum 10 B = Spectrum resultant from viewing a strip of black on a white surface through a prism.

II. Spectral colouring of fabrics 16 1. Woven-design specimen. 2. Printed-yarn „

III. Primary, secondary, and tertiary colours 22

IV. Tones and tints of the “primaries” 28

V. Plaid in which yellow is the bright overchecking colour 34

VI. Tones and tints of the “secondaries” 40

VII. 1. Blue texture 44 2. Fancy-twist yarn specimen.

VIII. Examples in colour contrasts 50 1, 2. Stripes. 3. Figuring in bright colours.

IX. Mono-chromatic contrasts 54 1. Contrasts in tone. 2. „ „ tints.

X. Specimen of bright colouring in plaids 58

XI. Red, green, and blue colouring 64 1. Figured pattern. 2. Check „

XII. Chart of colour standardization scheme 68

XIII. Blends of coloured wools 76

XIV. Specimens of marl yarns 90 Series I. Greys. II. Colour.

XV. Regular stripes 104 1 and 2. Two-colour patterns. 3. Four-colour pattern.

XVI. Forms of irregular stripes 112 1. Tennis stripe. 2. Shaded „ 3. Compound of ordinary and shaded stripes.

XVII. Fancy tweeds 120

XVIII. Compound stripings in bright colours 126

XIX. Check styles 134 1. Pattern in maroon and green. 2. Compound check. 3. Small interchanging check in fancy yarns.

XX. Check styles 144 1 and 3. Intermingled effects. 2. Broken check.

XXI. Figuring in simple twills 166

XXII. Styles due to simple orders of colouring 190

XXIII. Check and stripe patterns 228 1 and 2. Checks. 3. Gauze stripe. 4. Cord or rib stripes.

XXIV. Colouring of drafted styles 252 1. Weave compound--prunelle and [2\2] twills. 2. „ „ [1\3], [3\1], and [2\2] twills. 3. „ „ „ „ „ twist-warp yarns.

XXV. Fancy yarns 262 1. Ordinary folded or two-ply and three-ply yarns. 2. Flake and cloud twists. 3. Curl twists. 4. Gimp „

XXVI. Fancy yarn colourings 272 1. Donegal tweed. 2. Compound-weave worsted.

XXVII. Colouring with curl and knop yarns 280 1. Twill weave. 2. Small figure.

XXVIII. Costume colouring in fancy yarns 288

XXIX. Reversible knop-twist yarn pattern 296

XXX. Double-plain styles 304 1, 2, 3. Stripe patterns. 4. Figured shawl.

XXXI. Various double-plain designs 308 1. Warped and wefted one-and-one. 2, 3 and 4. System of warp colouring coinciding with the weave construction. 5. Irregular warp and weft colouring.

XXXII. Reversible double-weave fabrics 314 1. Double plain--velvet finish. 2. Double twill.

XXXIII. 320 1. Vesting. 2. Reversible golf cloaking.

XXXIV. Extra-warp colouring 324 1. Stripe style. 2. Quilting texture.

XXXV. Colouring of figured fabrics in the warp 330 1. Old vesting design (quilting). 2. Cut and uncut pile pattern.

XXXVI. Figured-pile specimen, sateen ground 334

XXXVII. Figured and spotted fabrics (extra-weft colouring) 340 1. Chintzed. 2 and 4. Extra-weft spotting. 3. Extra weft.

XXXVIII. 1. Honeycomb 348 2. Pine figuring.

XXXIX. Figured styles developed in warp and weft colourings 360

LIST OF FIGURES.

FIG. PAGE. 1. Weave design, effect of 2 1A. „ 2 2. Prismatic experiment 8 3. Design for prismatic experiment 10 4. Lambert’s experiment 14 5. _A_, _B_, _C_. One-and-one colouring effects in the plain weave 98 5. _D_, _E_, _F_. One-and-one colouring effects in the [2\2] twill 98 6. Hairline pattern in [3/1] twill 105 7. Hairline pattern in [3/1] twill, fine and broad effects 105 8. Hairline pattern in mat weaves 106 9. Hairline and broken effect in [3/1] and [2\2] twills 106 10. Vertical and transverse lines or stripes 107 11. _A_, _B_, _C_, _D_, _E_, and _F_. Stripe patterns in two shades 108 12. _A_, _B_, _C_, _D_, _E_, and _F_. Stripe patterns in three shades 109 13. Line patterns in warp face weaves 110 13A. Ten-shaft whip cord 111 14. Compound stripe of two sets of lines 111 14A. Compound stripe of several sets of lines of different width in three shades 112

PRINCIPLES OF CHECKING.

15. Common check 123 16. Common check modified 123 17. Check composed of two sizes of squares 124 18. Check composed of two sizes of squares modified 124 19. Overcheck 125 20. Overcheck modified 125 21. Counter-change check 126 22. [4\4] and [8\8] check 126 23. Graduated check 127 24. Common three-colour check 130 25. “Set” check 132 26. “Set” check modified 132 27. Compound checking in three colours 133 28. Compound checking in three colours modified 133 29. Counter-change check in three colours 134 30. Three-colour interchanging check 134 31. Three-colour interchanging check modified 136 32. Shaded check 137 33. Weave shaded check 140 34. Weave shaded check reverse section 141 35. Shaded figured style 142 35A. Shaded figured style section of weave design for 143

TARTANS.

36. The Menzies 147 37. The Menzies, modification of 147 38. The Montgomery 148 39. The Montgomery, I. modification of 148 40. The Montgomery, II. modification of 149 41. The Douglas 149 42. The Douglas, I. modification of 149 43. The Douglas, II. modification of 149 44. The Douglas, II., modification of, in the [3\3] twill 150 45. The McQueen 151 46. The McQueen, I. modification of 152 47. The McQueen, II. modification of 152 48. The Hamilton 153 49. The Maxwell 153 50. The Elliot 154 51. The McKinnon 154 52. The McKinnon, I. modification of 155 53. The McKinnon, II. modification of 155 54. The Dundas 155 55. The Dundas, I. modification of 155 56. The Dundas, II. modification of 156 57. The Fraser 156 58. The Fraser, I. modification of 157 59. The Fraser, II. modification of 157

STANDARD ELEMENTARY COLOUR EFFECTS.

60. ⎫ Plain weaves 162 60A ⎭ 61. ⎫ [2\2] twills 162 61A. ⎭ 62. ⎫ 62A. ⎬ Two-and-two colour effects in the [2\2] twill 163 62B. ⎭ 63. Effect in the plain weave (bird’s-eye spot) 164 64. Spotted design composed of plain weave 165 65. Spotted design composed of plain weave, effect of colouring one-and-one 166 66. Spotted design composed of [2\2] twill, effect of colouring one-and-one 167 67. Spotted twill weave, effect in the fabric, one-and-one colouring in warp and weft 168 67A. Spotted twill weave 168 68. Mat and twill weave, effect in the fabric, one-and-one colouring in warp and weft 169 68A. Mat and twill weave 169 69. Checked weave, effect in the fabric, one-and-one colouring in warp and weft 169 69A. Checked weave 169 70. [2\2] mat design, effect in the fabric, two-and-two- colouring 170 70A. [2\2] mat design 170 71. ⎫ 71A. ⎬ Three-and-three colour effects in the [3\3] twill 171 71B. ⎭ 72. ⎫ 72A. ⎬ Four-and-four colour effects in the [2\2] twill 171 72B. ⎭ 73. Four-and-four colouring in [2\2] mat 172 74. Four-and-four colouring in weave 74a 172 74A. Fancy eight-shaft weave 172 75. ⎫ 75A. ⎬ Six-and-six colour effects in the [3\3] twill 174 75B. ⎭ 76. Eight-and-eight colouring in the [4\4] twill 174 77. Six-and-six colouring in weave 77A 175 77A. Twelve-shaft irregular warp cord 175 78. Star check (six-and-six colouring) 175 78A. Weave for Fig. 78 175 79. Three-odd thread colour effect in the [3\3] twill 176 80. Three-odd thread colour effects in a [3\3] twill check design 177 80A. Design for Fig. 80 177 81. Three-2’s colour effect in the [3\3] twill 178 82. Three-3’s colour effect in the [3\3] twill 178 83. Hairline in four shades in the [3\1] broken twill 180 84. Four-2’s colour effect in the [2\2] twill 181 85. Four-3’s colour effect in the [3\3] twill 181 86. Four-2’s colour effect in the Mayo 182 86A. Mayo weave 182 87. Four-and-one colour effect in the [3\2] twill 184 87A. [3\2] twill 184 87B. Irregular checking in Fig. 87a 184 88. Six-and-two colour effect in a fancy mat weave 185 89. Fancy eight-shaft mat 185 89A. Weave for Fig. 89 185 90. Six-and-two colour effect in an irregular weave 186 90A. Weave for Fig. 90 186 91. Irregular colour effect in an eight-shaft twill 186 91A. Weave for Fig. 91 186 92. Two-two-and-one colour effect in the [3\2] twill 186 93. Three-two-and-one colour effect in the [3\3] twill 187 94. Six-four-and-two colour effect in the [3\3] twill 187 95. Six-four-and-two colour effect in the [2\2] mat 187 96. Twelve-shaft fancy twill 187 97. Irregular colour effect in four shades in Fig. 96 188 98. Irregular colour effect in four shades in ordinary twill 188 99. Irregular colour effect in four shades in the Mayo 189 100. Shaded check in four shades 189 100A. Weave for Fig. 100 189 101. A series of elementary colour patterns in [2\2] twill and mat 190

EXAMPLES IN COMPOUND COLOURINGS.

102. Regular compound check, 2-and-2 and 1-and-1 colouring, [2\2] twill 193 103. Regular compound check, 4-and-4, 2-and-2, and 1-and-1 colouring, [2\2] twill 195 104. Regular compound stripe, 4-and-4 and 8-and-8 colouring, light weft, [2\2] twill 203 105. Regular compound stripe, 4-and-4 and 8-and-8 colouring, dark weft, [2\2] twill 203 106. Regular compound check, 4-and-4 and 8-and-8 colouring, [2\2] twill 204 107. Regular compound stripe, 1-1-and-1 and 2-2-and-2 colouring, light weft, [2\2] twill 204 108. Regular compound check, 1-1-and-1 and 2-2-and-2 colouring, [2\2] twill 204 109. Regular compound stripe, 3-3-and-3 and 6-6-and-6 colouring, dark weft, [2\2] twill 207 110. Regular compound stripe, 3-3-and-3 and 6-6-and-6 colouring, light weft, [2\2] twill 207 111. Regular compound check, 3-3-and-3 and 6-6-and-6, [2\2] twill 208 112. Regular compound stripe, 3-3-3-and-3 and 6-6-6-and-6 colouring, dark weft, [2\2] twill 209 113. Regular compound stripe, 3-3-3-and-3 and 6-6-6-and-6 colouring, light weft, [2\2] twill 209 114. Regular compound check, 3-3-3-and-3 and 6-6-6-and-6, [2\2] twill 210 115. Regular compound stripe, 1-1-and-1, 2-2-and-2, and 4-4-and 4 colouring, light weft, [2\2] twill 211 116. Regular compound stripe, 1-1-and-1, 2-2-and-2, and 4-4-and-4 colouring, dark weft, [2\2] twill 211 117. Regular compound check, 1-1-and-1, 2-2-and-2, and 4-4-and-4, [2\2] twill 211 117A. Regular compound check, 1-1-and-1, 2-2-and-2, and 4-4-and-4, [2\2] mat 213 118. Irregular compound stripe, 2-and-1 and 4-and-2, dark weft, [2\2] twill 215 119. Irregular compound check, 2-and-1 and 4-and-2 colouring, [2\2] twill 215 120. Irregular compound stripe, 6-4-and-2 and 3-and-3, dark weft, [3\3] twill 216 121. Irregular compound check, 6-4-and-2 and 3-and-3, [3\3] twill 216 122. Irregular compound check, 3-and-3 and 4-and-2 colouring, [3\3] twill 217 123. Irregular compound check, 3-and-3 and 2-1-1-and-2 colouring, [3\3] twill 217 124. Irregular compound check, 3-and-3 and 2-1-1-and-2 colouring, differently grouped, [3\3] twill 218

ILLUSTRATIVE OF COLOURING SPECIFIC WEAVES AND DESIGNS.

125. Corkscrew weave, colour effect in 222 126. Corkscrew weave, colour effect in broad stripe 224 127. Corkscrew weave, colour effect in angled stripe 224 128. Modified corkscrew weave 225 129. Pattern obtained in Fig. 128 225 130. (Upper section) Check produced in fancy weave 226 130. (Lower section) Pattern due to Fig. 132 226 131. Weave for Fig. 130 (upper section) 226 132. Warp and weft cord and prunelle twill design 228 133. Diagonal pattern in single- and double-plain weaves 230 134. Section of design for Fig. 133 231 135. Striped spotted design 233 136. Wave or zig-zag effect 233 137. Section of gauze and plain-woven pattern 234 138. Gauze structure (photo-micrograph) 235 139. Plan for gauze twill and plain stripe 235 140. Healding draft for Figs. 139 and 140 235 141. Similar to Fig. 139 235 142. Fancy gauze and ordinary weave compound 236 143. Mock gauze stripe design 239 144. Mock gauze check 240 144A. Structure of mock gauze (photo-micrograph) 240 144B. Weave for Fig. 144A 241 145. Cord stripe. Weaves, weft cord, and whip cord twills 241 146. Cord stripe. Weaves, weft cords and buckskin twill 242

COLOUR EFFECTS IN COMPOUND WEAVE DESIGNS.

147. Figured pattern in [2\2] twill and double-plain weaves 247 148. Section of design for Fig. 147 248 149. Woven effect of Figs. 150 and 151 250 150. Compound design [1\2], [2\1] and [2\2] twills 250 151. Healding draft for Fig. 153 251 152. Woven effect of Figs. 153 and 154 250 153. Compound design, small twill weaves reversed 251 154. Healding draft for Fig. 153 252 155. Compound check design, [2\2] twill weave reversed 252 156. Healding draft for Fig. 155 253 157. Six-and-three colour effect in Fig. 158 255 158. Stripe design composed of [3\3] mat and a broken mat 255 159. Healding draft for Fig. 160 257 160. Compound style in [2\2], [3\1], and [1\3] twills 258 161. Stripe design consisting of a seven-shaft diagonal reversed 259 162. Stripe design consisting of warp and weft cord effects on a plain weave ground 260 163. Stripe design consisting of thirteen-shaft weaves 260 164. Stripe design consisting of fancy weaves 262 165. Stripe design consisting of sixteen-shaft twilled mat and other weaves 263 166. Compound of warp and weft corkscrews and whip cord weaves 263 167. Wave pattern, sateen ground 265 167A. Design for Fig. 167 265

COLOURING OF SPOTTED DESIGNS.

168. Angled [2\2] twill spotted pattern 268 169. Effect of Fig. 168 269 170. Spotted warp twill 269 171. Spotted warp twill 270 172. Spotted effect in [3\1] broken twill ground 271 173. Spotted effect in [2\2], [3\1], and [1\3] twills 271 174. Spotted effect in [3\1] and [1\3] broken twills 271 175. Stripe spotted design 272 176. Method of grouping “spots” 272 177. Irregular distribution of “spots” 273 177A. Pattern for Fig. 177 274 178. Warp and weft spotting on a plain ground (small effects) 274 179. Warp and weft spotting on a plain ground (broad effects) 275 180. Warp and weft spotting on a twill ground 276 181. Warp and weft spotting to form checks 278 182. Pattern for Fig. 181 278 183. Single-thread warp spotting 280 184. Single-pick weft spotting (corkscrew twill) 281 185. Single-pick weft spotting (mat ground) 283 186. Modification of Fig. 184 283 187. Warp-backed design, single-pick spotted 283 188. Diagonal single-pick spotted 284 189. Single-thread and single-pick spotting 285

COMPOUND WEAVE COLOURING.

190. Double-plain stripe, thread-and-thread colouring 299 191. Double-plain stripe, thread-and-thread colouring 299 192. Double-plain stripe, weaves cutting 299 193. Double-plain stripe, warp colouring fitting with weave structure 301 194. Double-plain stripe in three colours 301 195. Double-plain stripe in three colours 302 196. Compound design, double-plain and warp-twill weave 302 197. Double-plain check 304 198. Figured reversible design 306 199. Figured reversible design 308 200. Figured reversible design double-plain and [2\2] twill weaves 309 201. Double-weave reversible 2-and-1 principle 310 202. Double-twill figuring 312 203. Double-weave vesting 313 204. Double-twill, warp stitched for golf cloaking 316 205. Check golf cloaking pattern 317 205A. Weave for Fig. 205, centre-warp stitched 316

PRINCIPLES OF COLOURING IN THE WARP.

206. Warp-figured design 322 207. Extra-warp figuring 323 207A. Section for Fig. 207 323 208. Warp-pile structure 329 209. Weave structure for three-colour warp pile 331 210. Section of three-colour pile fabric 334

PRINCIPLES OF COLOURING IN THE WEFT-CURL FABRICS.

211. Ordinary principle of weft figuring 338 212. Extra-weft colouring 338 213. Section design for Fig. 212 339 214. Rib or cord stripe, extra weft coloured 342 215. Spotted vesting, extra weft colouring 342 216. Diagonal design, extra weft colouring 343 217. Section of four-cover vesting design 344 218. Honeycomb weave 345 219. Honeycomb fabric 346 220. Honeycomb striped design 346 221. Figured pattern, sateen ground 347 222. Section of pine figuring, four extra wefts 348 223. Pine figuring, Border style 350 224. Section of Paisley shawl design 351 225. Section of two-ply weft reversible fabric 352 226. Weave for Fig. 227 352 227. Design for a reversible fabric 352 228. Three-shade weft coloured reversible 353 229. Three-ply weft weave, four-shaft 354 230. Three-ply weft weave, six-shaft 354 231. Weft figuring on a warp cord ground 355 232. Figuring in solid weft floats and bold warp cord on a rep ground 356 233. Section of pile fabrics 357 234. Section of pile fabrics, (cut) 359 235. Section of pile fabrics, long curl effect (cut) 359 236. Section of pile fabrics, long curl effect (uncut) 360 237. Feather trimming textures 361 238. Weft curl weave 364 239. Striped curl pattern 365 240. Weave design for Fig. 239 365 241. Irregular “curl” 366 242. Weave design for Fig. 241 366 243. “Curl” in two colours of weft 367 244. Design for two-colour weft “curl” 367

TABLES.

PAGE I. Methods of applying Colour to Textiles 7 II. Wave Frequency of the Spectral Colours 9 III. Compounds of Coloured Lights 14 IV. Colours resulting from combining Pigments 15 V. Compounds of Shades or Tones of Colour 30 VI. Compounds of Tints of Colour 31 VII. Types of Woven Colouring 93 VIII. Illustrating the Effects on the Plain and [2\2] Twill Weaves of changing the Order of Warping and Wefting 99 IX. Regular Simple Colourings 161 X. Irregular Simple Colourings 182 XI. Compound Colourings 199

COLOUR IN WOVEN DESIGN.