CHAPTER XI.

THE SHILLUKS, A VITIATED PEOPLE. — CAUSE OF THE VIOLENT RAINS IN INNER AFRICA. — REFUSAL OF THE SULTAN OF THE SHILLUKS TO VISIT THE VESSELS. — DESCRIPTION OF A SPECIES OF GRASS. — BARTER WITH THE SHILLUKS. — CONQUEST OF THEIR COUNTRY NOT DIFFICULT. — FORM OF THEIR BOATS. — AMBAK RAFTS. — IRON RARELY FOUND AMONG THE EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES. — WORSHIP OF TREES BY THE SHILLUKS: THEIR RELIGIOUS RITES. — STARS IN THE SOUTHERN REGIONS OF AFRICA. — SHILLUK WOMEN: THEIR DRESS. — REFUSAL OF THE MEN TO SELL THEIR ARMS. — THE BAGHÀRAS: THEIR DRESS, ETC. — RE-APPEARANCE OF THE ISLAND PARKS, AND MOUNT DEFAFAÙNGH. — ASCENT OF THIS MOUNTAIN, AND FULL DESCRIPTION OF IT. — THE DINKAS: THEIR LOVE FOR OLD CUSTOMS. — DESERTION OF TWO DINKA SOLDIERS, AND REFUSAL OF THEIR COUNTRYMEN TO GIVE THEM UP. — SHEIKS SEIZED, AND DESERTERS RECOVERED.

_28th March._—We navigated to the neighbouring island, and passed by it on the left, N.E. by N., just as the sun was rising. Where is the meat that was to be put to-day into the Egyptian flesh-pots? The Shilluks will be delighted at having tricked the Turks, for they are really an extremely vitiated people. According to nature, corruption of morals cannot take place in the very earliest stage of life, and there might have been, therefore, a previous cultivation here which has now disappeared, and left only the bad parts behind. But how could they have gone back to the naked state? Slight clothing is even necessary here: a people that has once worn a fig-leaf never throws it off, although a cynic here and there may choose to lead a free dog-life.

We labour with oars, yet all is in vain against the north wind; the river itself remains on the average N.W. as far as Khartùm. About nine o’clock we halt at the right shore, and see herds and villages of the Shilluks opposite to us; but we must make our appetites disappear again—“_Quid juvat adspectus, si non conceditur usus!_” Really it was very vexatious; and in addition thereto, the new moon has appeared for the last two days, and yet my bold countryman whistles and roars, which is so very unusual at this time that we conclude the same phenomena is taking place on the Nile.

It has been considered as a thing decided that the periodical north winds blow the rain from the Mediterranean Sea against the mountain terrace of Habesh. But these are winds which blow also on the Western Ocean, along the coast of Africa, and find no opposition on the sea and further beyond: the periodical gales cannot ride at anchor so conveniently on the not very high mountains of Habesh and last until the counter gust from India ensues, or until the clouds have impregnated all the air of Habesh, and at last fall, from their weight, and bring refreshing rain to the country. The Mediterranean Sea seems to me to afford too small a tract for the sun and wind to be able to draw a mass of water from it, like that of a small deluge. Therefore, I think that quite different phenomena lay the foundation of these violent rains, and that Habesh, beyond the equator, may have its conductors of moisture from the Indian Sea, as well as Egypt by the electrical course of its Nile. Otherwise Habesh would be enveloped in an eternal sea of clouds, for the north winds would be bottled up there half a year, and, by the same argument, the south winds the other six months.

[Illustration: MOUNT LINANJIN, FROM THE ISLAND OF TSHÀNKAR, TOWARDS SOUTH EAST

27TH JANUARY, 1841.]

According to my views, therefore, the north winds pass over the mountain of Habesh, which if we take Sennaar, or rather Fazògl, as ten thousand feet high above the Mediterranean Sea, ought to lie in analogous elevation, but which assumption, however, does not appear correct, if we look closely at the mountains of Fazògl. It may be, then, that the ascent of the ground from the Mediterranean to Fazògl fills up two-thirds of this height, which may or may not result from the slight fall of the Nile. General experience teaches us in Germany, that the west wind, as a rule, brings us too liberal an allowance of rain. That fountain of ours lies toward the west, in the ocean: accordingly, the ocean might provide, perhaps, the valleys of both the Niles and their neighbourhood with similar rains, at periodical winds, the uninterrupted effusion of which during the hariffs (rainy season) may be derived from other causes, and perhaps may be sought for in the monsoons.

I found the tokuls of the Shilluks slightly arched: but just now I see a few higher vaults, somewhat like the Italian cupolas. They are too high to be called Roman arches. The Romans might have derived their arch from the sky; the Italians adopt the oblique form: every part ought to be light, slender, and tending towards the centre. The tokuls must be considered as the oldest buildings in Africa. Continual rain necessitated good and secure covering, and a sheaf, tied at the top, may have suggested the first idea of a tokul, for the violent showers of rain pierced through the thick horizontal layers of reeds and straw. Thermometer, 19°, 29°, to 30°; sunset, 28°.

_29th March._—After the north wind had somewhat abated, yesterday at noon, we pushed on with oars and the rope, and halted on the evening at the right shore, near the Dinkas, where a village was to be seen close above, from which the inhabitants had fled. A hillock extended along the river, resting on a down of the finest white sand; and this sandy deposit being covered entirely with dome-trees, mostly young ones, is perhaps the cause why the river is not half so broad towards this side as previously. The long hollow behind the shore, up to the neighbouring old shores, displays a scanty forest, intersected by two arms of the Nile, which, for the moment, are stopped up above and below. I found, on one dam of earth, remains of a village that had stood here previously. Our crew did not lose the opportunity of setting them on fire, without thinking of sparing the young dome-palms. The proximity of lions is now alleged as the excuse for the necessity of fires, although we have seen none since those on the Sobàt, always excepting the ones described by Arnaud in his journal, whom he attacked chivalrously, with his Fortunatus-cap.

The direction, yesterday, in which we navigated, deviated more northerly from N.E., whilst to-day we go N.E. in more easterly declinations. The north-east wind is therefore against us; but we are happy at having escaped from the confined talus of the solitary Sobàt. Our left shore presented us yesterday, and to-day, dhellèbs and some villages in the most charming situation, two of which I sketched, and afforded us continually the sight of a green forest, whilst the right shore displayed only a bare tract and several villages of the Dinka country, concealed from us previously by the high reeds. Dinkas and Shilluks hold the points of their broad spears directed towards the ground, according to the custom of the nations above, and do not throw them, probably as a sign of their friendly intentions. The spears are decorated at the extreme end with a little bit of fur or pelt, which, perhaps, is of the same use in the javelins as the feathers of arrows among other nations. The Shilluks and Dinkas have not any bows and arrows; and the latter weapon, which is entirely without feathers in these regions, was no longer seen after we passed the Nuèhrs, who dwell up the river. We halt in the afternoon, firstly, at the shore of the Shilluks, near a little hamlet, close to which is the capital or residence-village of the Sultan of the Shilluks, whom we had invited even before we left the Sobàt to honour us with his presence, so that we might present him with dresses and other beautiful things. But he preferred to remain where he was, and perhaps removed further, or intended to send us an usurper of his name, as he did the last time.

When we landed, inquiries were made for what peculiar reason we had come there—whether with friendly or hostile intentions; and one messenger after the other was sent to us, to know whether we wished peace or war, because Turks had _never_ before presented themselves in this place. It was no answer to them to say that our object was merely to navigate and survey the river; and the Mek did not appear on the scene, still fearing, perhaps, treachery—nay, even kidnapping. I should like to see, however, the faces of the _good_ Turks, if the Sultan, who they suppose is afraid of them as the conquerors of the world, should appear all of a sudden behind the sunt trees, with a suite of some thousand broad lances!

Those trees have astonished me by their strength, being about four feet in diameter, and by their powerful and now shady branches. The bark of the lower part of the trunk and the stronger boughs is of a dirty dark-brown colour; and the latter, together with the smaller branches, are like those of the lindentree. The small prickles are seen only sparingly on the boughs hanging down, and the whole present strength of the trees, which have been deserted by the water since our ascent, seems to lie more in the crisped and delicate foliage. The grass, which rose previously so luxuriantly from the water, lies now like a thick layer of straw; it appears to continue lying on the ground like the couch-grass—yet not in the proper sense of the word, for its roots are those of grass,—and, from time to time, to strike root, and also to stand up, if it has not been kept too long upright by the water, and its slender stalks have not grown too high. I have remarked this in many places, and seen both these species at the same time upon the very same root, the blades having been cropped every now and then, growing crisply, and standing upright on all sides; it might be, therefore, the savannah grass, and therefore I secured a specimen of this grass.

I have not been able to ascertain whence the Shilluks and other tribes derive the little rice, which is also a species of grass. A specimen of the fruit is also in my possession; it comes up, perhaps, like wheat. The Shilluks do not seem to be very much afraid: they are ready to engage in barter, although they do not come quite close to us. Perhaps they think to drive us away first, by not supplying us with meat.

_30th March._—There was an _enlightened_ assembly yesterday evening, on board Suliman Kashef’s vessel: all the lanterns of the Turks were lighted, and were fixed around it. There is nothing done now without light; we are recalled, therefore, from the chase by lanterns, even if it be only dusk. I proposed, yesterday, either to present ourselves _in propriâ personâ_ to the Mek, at his residence close by (said to be only two hours distant), or to receive him in the open air, if he could be persuaded to come, and not to invite him on board the vessels, according to the favourite custom, because in that case, he might probably turn back. They agreed with me, and—there the matter ended. The boats of the Shilluks exceed in size and solidity those of all the other tribes. This people also frequently place two trees together, and bind them together at the bottom by ropes. Their boats have long peaks, and carry twenty to thirty men, sitting in a line behind one another. The different colour of the bark of the talles—I had seen them previously red, and now of a palish green—seems to depend on the nature of the soil.

The royal cranes, so often mentioned, are in extraordinary quantities here, and we provide ourselves abundantly with them, but got very few other birds. They keep together in flocks, and walk now on the dry old river-bed, which consists of the most fruitful earth, and extends at two hundred paces distant from the Nile. This ancient, flat, and choked-up bed of the Nile, being subject to inundations, is perhaps the place between which and the country beyond the vigorous forest was planted; for I remarked yesterday, that the forest stands more under the horizontal line than on the rising of the shores.

Just now Fadl and Sale came from the Shilluks, some of whom have encamped at a tolerable distance from the river. I did not accompany them, because the natives would infallibly have gone away again, if they had seen a white countenance, as that is connected in their minds with a Turkaui. A broad spear could not be procured from them; they said that every one had his spear, and ought to keep it: moreover, they gave my men to understand that their Mek would not appear until we had also a sultan on board, and that we ourselves had come to their land as spies. Two of them were tolerably conversant in the Arabic language, but very few of the others understood it. One of them possessed a small elephant’s tooth, as my servants further related, but the glass beads I had given them were not sufficient to purchase it, nor a sheep. They do not despise ornaments, and were presented with abundance of white, thick glass beads (the blue are not esteemed); but they prefer, however, objects of real value, and wanted, for example, half a ferda for the sheep. They said that they were frequently visited by Gelabis (slave-dealers, merchants), and that even the day before yesterday, they (the Shilluks) had been visited by some of them, who had come from Khartùm on camels, and brought cotton goods, ferdas, beads, &c., which they had exchanged for cows, teeth, honey, simsim, and kurbàks. A cow costs a ferda, and such a piece of cotton stuff is valued as money, for we never see them clothed in it.

It is a striking circumstance, that a merchant is esteemed by them almost a sacred person; however, I would not recommend any white man to undertake this business here, if he does not wish to be murdered as a _much-beloved_ Turkaui.

_31st March._—We leave our landing-place at three o’clock, without having seen the sultan of one of the largest, if not the very largest nation of the White Nile. Another fellow, however, who came, pretended to be the Sheikh-el-Bellet (according to him, a son or relation of the sultan and his envoy), and was presented with pearls and a piece of calico conformably to the Turkish policy. We halt for the night at the left shore. A very large number of black ibes are remarked on the trees: their flesh has a fine flavour.

_1st April._—Now that I know something of the country of the Shilluks, which on the whole, perhaps, only amounts to a tract of shore, the conquest of it, as well as of the land of the Dinkas, does not appear to me very difficult from this side, even if the Shilluks were determined to offer real resistance. The army could defile (that is, in the dry season) along the shores up the stream, and cover the towing-path, which is necessary here, owing to the south winds, and the vessels could carry the provisions; there is no Haba either to fear here, as in Taka. Certainly such an expedition would be only to press soldiers, or perhaps also to subdue the whole country; for as to other treasures, they are not to be acquired, except the large herds, from which the future tribute might be drawn. If Ahmed Basha, however,—for I have him in my eye,—could once raise an army of these black devils of Shilluks and Dinkas, whom he himself allows to possess the greatest courage, _then_ he might think of other and more profitable conquests.

That broad, choked-up gohr, of which I spoke previously, seems to continue, and perhaps does so always with the old high shores, which, however, may be distant enough. They are now invisible on both sides, and the new shores are mutually of the same height as they have been for some days. Notwithstanding this, I must still assert that the Dinka land lies higher than that of the Shilluks, and that both the barrenness of the former and the dense wood of the country on the left shore are derived from this cause. On the other hand I have altered the opinion expressed on the ascent, that we ought to keep in view only the old or high shores, in composing a map; although it would be extremely instructive to mark them on the charts, for the present shores are high enough here at least—about five or six, and up to ten feet at our landing-place—to be considered as shores.

We make the bend from N.E. to E., and the Gebl-el-Dinka or Defafaùngh seems to peep forth down the river before us, but it is only a delusion. The villages, or rather the long-tailed city of the Shilluks, Jemmati, Gennap, called by the Arabs therefore perhaps Dennap, advances with its groups of houses and forest to the margin of the river, and crowds of people have collected shortly below our landing-place. We halt at the left shore a little before sunset, which is at present charmingly decorated with grass and trees; the former, however, only below on the flat strand.

_2nd April._—Some Shilluks from the neighbouring village were on the shore, but drew back a short distance when they saw me coming. I had experienced a violent perspiration in the night, for we had yesterday evening 30° Reaumur in our cabin, where not a breath of air was stirring, and therefore, being in a perspiration, I had just now thrown over me my burnus, under which certainly a gun might be very easily concealed. The Shilluks are not generally timid, especially if they be in a body. It were, in truth, too much to expect that they should prove their courage, in a small troop and armed merely with shield and spear, against guns that hit at a distance, and send invisible and inevitable death.

Their little floating vessels, which we see so frequently standing against the trees on the shore, serving as fishing-boats, and also for crossing to the opposite side, consist in the Nile merely of a bundle of reeds, and have the form of a flat skiff, obtuse at the stern, because the ambaks are joined together at the slender end, and tied in three or four layers one over the other to make the vessel broader behind: there are two holes at the bottom for the feet. They go quickly, and a long flat oar is used to propel them along, as in the other boats: their name is generally with the Arabs, toff, and with the Baràbras, geïhga. The ambak rafts that come from Sennaar, or Rossères to Khartùm, are large, and carry a freight of one hundred ardepps of durra. A little wood approached this morning also on the right to the shore, but having no trees like that of the left shore. I thought previously that the Haba of the Shilluks was scanty, but I have altered my opinion by ocular inspection: the trees must appear thin, even at a short distance, for the stunted thick stems generally stood in the water.

Iron is very rare among the Shilluks as in all Bellet Sudan, notwithstanding the proximity of Kordofàn; and it does not seem that the kingdom of Bari has ever provided Ethiopia and Egypt with iron, for very few instruments and arms made of this metal are found among the antiquities, but, on the contrary, they are of brass and other metals. The use of iron, however, is very ancient, and perhaps a black Tubal Cain may have hammered there long before the tribe accumulated, sufficiently to shew the characteristics of a nation. If an Ethiopian tribe descended from Bari, it possibly kept up a communication with the iron country, from the want of iron in Nubia, though perhaps not by a direct road; or if only a tradition of iron-mines existed, a Rhamses or some other great king, might have followed and traced them out; for the White River was just as accessible as at present, and the vessels of that age would have found more room for sailing,—that is, supposing a Dædalus had discovered also sails for Egypt, which we may suppose to be the case from their sea-voyages, and which is also confirmed by the hieroglyphics.

It was ascertained yesterday that the Shilluks pasture their cattle wherever they like. The great inundation of this year has covered their former pasture-ground with slime, or the water has retreated so lately that there is not yet sufficient grass, and the little that has sprung up is already consumed. On account of this want of grass a large number of Shilluks collected, and armed with broad spears, drove their cattle from the mouth of the Sobàt down to this part, and still further to the right shore of the Dinkas. The latter drew back modestly, and pasture now in the interior, renouncing Nile fish for the present.

The Shilluks are feared, and particularly because they always go in bodies, and even descend to pasture as far as the Sagiën of Mustapha Bey, on the left shore. They behave very peaceably, on the whole, towards us, principally because their Sultan has ordered them to avoid giving any cause for strife, and to leave the _good_ Turks in peace. Yet the latter are still in great fear, and Selim Capitan is very unwilling to pass the night on the left shore, so we anchor afterwards in the river. We hear in this country, as in Taka, the greeting of “Habàbä.”

I have convinced myself to-day that the villages visible from the Nile, standing, as I thought previously, on the old shore—that is, from the southern part of the Shilluk land down the river till sunset to-day—do not stand higher than the present shore, and that, if they appeared to me to lie higher, it arises from the low region extending behind the shore on both sides of the river, and covered with water. Every village, however, here lies somewhat high, for the ground is elevated by itself, through the decay of the old buildings, and the erection of new ones upon them; or this has been done by the foresight of the inhabitants, as we have also remarked. We remain to-day at the right shore; but not any of the people of the country are to be seen. Thermometer 19°, 30° to 31°, 29°.

_3rd April._—We navigated this morning to N., with a few deviations to N.N.W., and halted at noon, by reason of the strong wind. Then we went on to N., and in a bend to W., where a long road stretched before us. Now, in the afternoon, we sail, and shall navigate longer, perhaps, than usual, for the Turks are hastening to Khartùm and its pleasures. The right shore has some trees here and there. The forest on the left sometimes comes to the shore, and sometimes level alluvial land separates it from us.

Sabatier and I ate with great _goût_ to-day, on Thibaut’s vessel, two of the three geese we procured yesterday; but Thibaut had nothing new to shew us, except a soffeia (funnel for Merissa), brought from Bari. The people there manage to console themselves for the want of wine with their African mum, made from durra, as they do in other places with mead and beer. We stop after sunset at the Dinka shore, W.N.W., near some trees. Thermometer 18° (cold north-east wind), 29°, and 28°.

_4th April._—To-day again the wind is contrary. We go this morning N., with easterly deviations, and in the afternoon N.E., with a few declinations. There are several villages on the left shore; we halt at the right, and the Shilluks retreat. Suliman Kashef confirms to day what I had already heard, viz., that the Shilluks worship a tree. They call it by the general name of Nigàma, which is said to have been introduced by the Great Sheikh, their ancestor, the founder of their union as a tribe, the father of the nation, and their law-giver. Almost every village has such a Nigàma, which is generally a sunt-tree. The place round it is enclosed, and the ground is kept very clear. On any misfortune occurring, the Shilluks throw themselves on their face, under the tree, and call and cry for assistance. It is considered identical with the holy founder of their race. Whether he ordered them to act in counsel after his death under a tree, and to complain to him; or appointed the tree as a mediator, through which they might converse with him; or, lastly, he may have been buried under such a tree, which thus became an object of veneration; and subordinate Nigàmas spread then with the increase of population. Moreover, the holy circuit of the Nigàma affords an asylum even to the enemy, and also to snakes, toads, and other animals, which are even considered sacred during their abode there, and fed with milk. A similar canonization of rats and mice is represented in the Egyptian temples. The Shilluks hang cows’ tails, tufts of hair, &c., on the Nigàmas, as sacrifices.

The germ of gratitude is undeniably planted in the heart of human beings, as in that of animals; and the man of nature who does not enter into more abstruse speculations will not destroy what does good to him, but, on the contrary, foster and cherish it; then comes love, and gradually veneration is paid to it. Idolatry, though often made absurd and laughable enough by superstition and individual notions, may have arisen originally from natural instinct, and is, perhaps, spread throughout all the countries on the Nile, though we have not been able to obtain satisfactory information on this subject from want of a dragoman, even had he only been slightly intelligent, and able to comprehend the questions properly. But this much appears certain, that the object of veneration among these nations does not dwell high in heaven. They had no knowledge of the worship of a Supreme Being. Perhaps their gods stand around them, or walk friendly with them, and eat out of their cribs. Even beasts, injurious or fatal to man, may receive gratitude and veneration from them in return for some instance of magnanimity. Thermometer 20°, 29°, and 28°.

_5th April._—We have stopped since yesterday at a narrow and bare island near the Shilluks, to make astronomical observations, and shall probably remain here to-day. It would delight an astronomer to gaze at the stars in these southern regions, which are never seen in Europe—as for example, the Crozier of the south, Canopus, which, according to our two learned astronomers, was even invisible in Alexandria, and had been first seen by them in Korusko.

Two of my servants have just returned from the Shilluks. I remarked yesterday and to-day that when the women belonging to the villages lying not far from the shore, and close to one another, came to water the herds, with their well made and nearly round pitchers on their heads, the men accompanied them, spear in hand, in consequence of the wicked enemy being in the vicinity. The women did not wear cotton stuff round their hips, but front and back aprons; and some had a third, a leathern one, without hair, thrown over the shoulders, or on the back. Man appropriates to himself the cotton stuff, when luxury goes so far, which is, however, very rare; yet he must be a chief of a village or a Sheikh, to be able to wear it, as is the case with the tribes up the river. My men were not able to purchase a spear or a shield from them. One of the Shilluks, who spoke Arabic well, declared that they wanted the spears themselves, and never sold them to Turks; that they were obliged to protect the cattle by weapons, and that by means of these beasts they purchased their corn, which does not grow in their country (perhaps in this year owing to the inundation), from which circumstance they were obliged to eat locusts (geràt). My men were sent away after this short conversation, during which they were courteously invited to sit down, as I saw at the distance. We proceed an hour before sun-rise from our place, but can only make a short course, in consequence of the wind being contrary, and soon halt again at the shore of the Shilluks; to-morrow we ought to be near Mount Defafaùngh. Thermometer sun-rise, 18°; noon to three o’clock, 30° to 31°; sunset, 29°.

_6th April._—Still a contrary wind; the direction N.E., with easterly deviations. We saw a scanty forest on the right, but not any habitation,—mostly alluvial soil, which previously stood under water, even between the trees. When we set foot on such a ground as this, we cannot imagine from whence the reeds, partly burnt away, have sprung. The straw in wads covers the ground here and there, and solitary reed-stalks, the leaves of which seem blasted by the sun and wind; yet there are still tracts with reeds on wet soil: also some groups of reed or long straw huts, like beehives, stand on the left shore. In the afternoon we observe several birds, and the longing after meat drives the vessels of our General and Admiral to the right shore, where copsewood and isolated trees display themselves. Some of our party went off to shoot guinea fowls.

_7th April._—Set off at an early hour, with a contrary, though not a strong, north-east wind, and continued in a north-easterly direction till some hours after sunrise. I hear the joyful cry of “Baghàras!” and perceive immediately from the window a dozen of these mounted herdsmen, who spring forward to the margin of the shore on the left side of the river, greet, and make signs to us. To see horses for the first time after several months gave me a delightful sensation.

It is, perhaps, certain, that cultivation has not ascended the river from hence, for otherwise the useful horse and the camel, which subsequently became indigenous on the Nile, would not have been forgotten, being two of the most necessary animals on earth. Flags and streamers, with the insignia of the Prophet, were hoisted to welcome the bold horsemen as Mahommedan brothers, and to soften their hearts. Then begins a barter for butter, milk, and sheep, but these Anti-Christs are hard to deal with, for they make us pay dearly for everything; yet they also take glass beads as well as gold. It is delightful to view these well-known heads, with their hair twisted back in a tuft. The men in blue shirts carry three or four lances, holding the longer and stronger one in their hand. The pretty girls wear a ferda round their hips, and the swelling bosom is uncovered. A ring decorates their nostrils, as in other regions, but, on the other hand, they wear long hair, falling in tresses on their shoulders—an ornament which we have never beheld in the upper countries. These horsemen, employed as an _avant garde_ against the Shilluks, whom they do not fear in the least, are, according to Mariàn, a bold stem of the Baghàras from Kordofal (the last syllable fluctuates between fal and fan) who call themselves Abanies. Their Sheikh, who is said to be known to me, is called “Wood el Mamùd.” I cannot, however, recall his name to my recollection, although he has been with us in Khartùm.

The first island-park appeared this morning on the left, its convolvuli in full verdant splendour, and considerably elevated above the water; another one followed, but the variegated flowers were absent, and the lower part of the foliage of the hanging creepers was dry, having been covered longer by the water.

We halted at the left shore to wait for the oxen and sheep which the Baghàras had promised to bring, but these brothers in Mohammed, were too well acquainted with our Abu Daoud, Suliman Kashef, who would have dispensed with any payment, and therefore they did not shew themselves. “Naas batalin” (bad people) they were called,—and we navigate in the afternoon further to N.E., and wind to E., where the isolated Mountain Defafaùngh, hanging over the river, sets me on tenterhooks of expectation. Here I shall see pyramids and enormous walls, for the whole rock is said to be formed of burnt bricks (Top achmer). This might have been, therefore, the halting point for the archæology of the Ethiopian world. I must set out on my travels early in the morning and sketch the outlines of its ruins, even if I catch a fever that may continue several days.

_8th April._—I was on my feet before daybreak, and woke, as usual, my men from their heavy sleep; I drank a strengthening draught of yemen, and set off with Thibaut, Sabatier, and three servants, one of whom carried a goat’s skin, containing water, to the mysterious mountain which, as the final end of Egyptian or Ethiopian civilization, the first or last power of human art, may afford so much _éclaircissement_ to science. Cheerful and brisk—for the sun had not yet risen—I walked with the ostrich and crane, as I called Thibaut and Sabatier, on account of their quick strides, through the Ambak wood, and the long grass of the Savannah-prairie, which was partly burning under our feet. But soon the depressed land of an old river, with standing water therein, lay between us and the foot of Mount Defafaùngh. We perceived by some trees here, on a level with the shore of the Nile, that the water had risen four feet high—what a lake, then!—and, therefore, the Ambak was lying dry, and its root bent and feeble. Arnaud was advancing far behind us, with the military escort given to us for our protection, which we thought we could do without. When we saw armed natives at a little distance from where we stood, my two Frenchmen made a show of courage, but seemed to me to hide their fear under the cloak of joking. It would have been disgraceful to stop and wait for Arnaud, and so one after the other rode upon the shoulders of our strongest servants, to whom a comrade gave his hand, so that he might not stick in the clay soil and morass, and we crossed in this manner a narrow gohr, leaving the little lake and the standing pools at our left.

On we went through the dried low ground until we arrived, after walking a mile or so, at the foot of the mountain where the ground is again elevated, and contains some trees (also dome-palms). I let the others ascend as if they were running for a wager, and looked right and left for antiquities, picking up stones with which the steep path I had struck into was bestudded, whilst the long grass and low bushes, but still more the projecting rocks, made the ascent difficult and laborious. Some ledges of rocks encircle the gable-end like a crown; no human being could have chiselled here, nor has nature so disposed them in her natural course; I knew the cause from what I had already seen, and from the specimen I had put into my fowling-bag; I was standing upon volcanic ground, and therefore I might expect to see a crater on the top. Reddish ashes and pieces of lava of similar colour filled the space between the rocks, the porosity of which, as well as the particles of shining black little stones, similar to coals and porphyry, convinced me that they have also undergone a powerful volcanic fire, which has dried up all the pores; or the entire mountain might have risen from a subterraneous forge, and poured over itself a thick coating of lava like liquor from a foaming goblet.

If we go upon the supposition, that it is an independent volcano, and not merely an elevated volcanic mass, we may easily recognize in the top an extinct crater, levelled by the fallen walls of rock, such as we see even now on the eastern side, by lava and volcanic mud, wherein ants at present wallow, and by the crumbling fragments of projecting rocks. The summit of this burnt-out volcano forms an oval terrace from N.W. to S.E.; the north-eastern part, however, is shelving, but the reservoir of lava could not be transplanted here, for some of the breaks of the mountain in that part, are precipitously disrupt, and there are no signs of a lava stream below. The porous rocks on the summit, exhibit a kind of decay, entirely earthy and friable, so that we might believe that they were once covered with boiling mud. The curved rocks, jutting out to the south, are smooth, considerably lower than our summit, and separated from it by a horizontal rocky wall, cleft here and there, which surrounds the crater at the top, and is not higher on the side we are than five to ten feet. The flat part of the upper ring falls away slightly to the west, and no lava stream was to be seen here. If the great lake so often spoken of by me existed at one time, its waters never perhaps dashed over the summit of this Stromboli, which is about four hundred feet high, much as it might increase by the opened sluices of the high land, and thus be in a condition to reach the volcanic mountain itself. An immeasurable circular plain lay now at our feet, in which the Nile extended from W. to N.; at its side, turned towards us, were several standing mountain streams, which join the Nile again at the rainy season, and testify to the changeableness of the course of the river, whose waters formed at one time a large lake at the foot of this mountain, and still do so at high water. No city, therefore, could have stood here, and still less on the little summit of the mountain, where also not a single fragment speaks in favour of the previous existence of Tokuls, although the mountain would have afforded the most splendid building materials to a nation, that had even only attained a moderate degree of cultivation. I knew already that we should find no ruins here, for the so-called ruins were said to consist of _top_, or bricks; and the fragments of stone have a great similarity to bricks, but only at the first superficial glance. The Turks, however, had taken these stones for bricks, and their fiery imagination pictured immediately pyramids, fortresses, and tombs; which assumption appeared more credible to me, because by embracing it and believing in such an existence, I hoped to be able to trace out, whether the cultivation of the Ethiopians travelled up or down the river. After a few glances, however, at the upper valley of the White Nile, I was soon persuaded, that Defafaùngh only remained as a _ne plus ultra_, an ever-interesting boundary-mark of the cultivated western Ethiopia.

The prospect from the top presented to us some Dinka villages towards S., and a distant chain of mountains to S.E., and another to E. These seem also to lie isolated in the immeasurable plain, from the waters of which they might have stood forth, at one time, like islands. We saw the dung of hyænas and antelopes; and thousands of guinea-fowls enticed us to descend by a steep path on the south-eastern side, where the earlier volcanic phenomena were seen. I scrambled down, whilst the others were shooting, whom my huntsmen had followed by spontaneous impulse; twice I aimed and fired, but my gun flashed in the pan, and I had no more caps. I was therefore obliged to let the birds, driven up from below by Suliman Kashef’s Turks, fly round my head, or rise under my feet to the number of fifty to one hundred head, without even being able to kill them by throwing stones, or treading them to death. I thought _habeat sibi_, and wandered over the numberless wild paths, intersecting one another, between thorns and long straw, to the nearest reach of the mountain, which is only slightly elevated towards it in N.E., but of equal height to its base. Up rose a flock of guinea-fowls here, another covey alighted there; they jumped up and run on all sides to hide themselves, or flew to the slopes of the mountain, where they were received by the soldiers standing above, with a discharge from their terrible weapons, which perhaps they had never heard before. Some of the birds smelling powder, who were in the neighbouring copsewood, called the others in vain to leave the circuit of their hitherto Zion.

In the meantime I had found a solitary fragment of a Burma, red outside and black inside, made in the same manner as those of the Shilluks, and I roved about the mountain from S.E. to N., where several blocks of rock were lying below which had fallen from the mountain, and seemed to be porous basalt, or tophus (the latter most likely, from the regularity and fineness of the pores). These blocks lay scattered far and wide to the east, having sharp corners like those of a red-brown colour, which stand forth as pilasters from the west side of the mountain itself. They appear, however, to have been thrown by violence, rather than rolled to this distance. These blocks, which formerly covered the mountain here as thick crusts of lava, and under which still other crusts may lie, are broken off nearly in a horizontal line towards the river, and might, therefore, together with their clefts, easily suggest the idea of ancient circular walls or fortifications, to the Arabs and Turks. Perhaps it is from this cause that the Defafaùngh is called also Berba; for Birbe means a ruin in Arabic. We found there a cave—perhaps there are several—formed of stones piled up one over the other, equal in size to the one at the top on the south-eastern side of the terrace, and inhabited by wild beasts, as we concluded from the hyænas’ dung; on the north-eastern side we remarked several holes and fissures in the rocks, occupied at day by owls, and at night by the guinea-fowls. We saw the former and heard of the latter from some Dinkas, after we had assembled under the shade of large tamarind-trees, on which already there was ripe fruit.

The Dinkas came, laid down their spears at some distance, greeted us with their “hababa,” and sat by our side in a friendly manner. No sooner did they see the dead guinea-fowls than they told us, that they kill them either with stones, or by catching them in the evening in the holes and cavities of the rocks. They were presented with some tobacco at their request, contrary to the usual custom of the Turks, who do not shew such favour to these “Abit.” They thought the “bumb” (report) of guns was “affiàt” (good and fine), but they were afraid of it, like all Negroes, and so much so that it appears laughable to us; but what ideas may they connect with the simple report, and what species of spirit or devil may they suppose to be raised in the gun!

There cannot be much worship of trees here, for the neighbouring villages have not any shady trees; although these splendid tamarinds, with a trunk of five to six feet thick, and dense foliage, to the foot of which moreover the water reaches, as we see by the foot-prints of the Hippopotami, which serve me as an arm-chair, certainly deserve care and gratitude. But there was very little cleanliness at the place where we were sitting (to be silent of the ground being trod smooth by men), and the boughs of the trees did not shew any marks of consecration; there might have been, perhaps, about one thousand head of black birds sitting on them. We proceeded afterwards along the dry margin of the lake to the two layers of rocks projecting from the ground, wherein we recognise basalt, also porous, but displaying great hardness on breaking off the upper crust. I dare not decide whether this lake be not an extinct crater choked up by the Nile, similar to the Laacher See on the Rhine.

Girard, who has examined my specimens, says indeed truly,—“The mountain is clearly an extinct volcano. It rises probably from a basaltic plateau, for basalt, olivine, and pyroxene appear on it, and red-brown porous lava, with large circular hornblende crystals, as well as dark blue tophus, formed from clear porous scraps of lava and fine ashes, seem to cover its declivity. The tophus, as well as the lava, does not contain any vitreous feldspar, yet pumice stone shews itself under them, but all the products of the volcano prove that it is only converted basalt.”

Everything was therefore collected here to form a frontier-fortress; but perhaps it is reserved for another age to see a new Nigritia flourishing under the auspices of an enterprising man, who has money, and will undertake men-hunts. Certainly, by that means, the whole country would be deprived of the free and independent negroes; who, notwithstanding their poverty, will not enlist for gold and silver. They even prefer to remain in the old state, for they love old customs, even if they have seen or been obliged to have better ones. One example will suffice for many. Several Dinka slaves deserted from Fàzogl, who had been made craftsmen, taking with them all the implements of their trade. They appear, however, to have done the latter, not on account of the greater usefulness of such tools, but merely for the sake of the iron, to make spears or bracelets of it: this, at least, our soldiers and Dinkas affirmed. Some of the deserters were also shipwrights, but yet we have never seen a boat, although it would be so useful to them in their marauding expeditions.

The Dinkas accompanied us now to our ships, bringing milk and butter with them; but we found that they mix cow’s urine with the former, which was quite sufficient to disgust us, but not so our servants. The discovery of the desertion of two Dinkas from my vessel delayed the continuation of our journey; their village, parents, and relations were near this mountain. We had a long parley with their countrymen, who continued faithful for some time, and would not deliver up the two soldiers. At last, when all the threats were of no avail, and we had ordered our soldiers to get their arms ready, some one managed to entice with a good grace three sheikhs on board Selim Capitan’s vessel, whom we had shortly before clothed. We bore off from land, and the poor Dinkas, who were too few to make war against us, saw themselves compelled to give up their brothers, who were immediately then laid in irons; because, according to Turkish custom, these kidnapped men, although they have not taken the oath of allegiance, are subject to French military discipline. But it was contrary to Turkish usage to restore the shiekhs without further extortion, and they would certainly have been carried to Khartùm, if no Franks had been present,—who speak, however, frequently in vain. Even the voluntary slaves were put in chains until they were far distant from their native country. I begged for mercy for the poor prisoners, but in vain: we then made a short course and halted, for good reasons not at the shore of the Dinkas. Thermometer up to 32°.