CHAPTER XXIII.

GAZÁWA—RESIDENCE IN KÁTSENA 257

An African Dandy—My Protector Elaiji—Camp Life—Fortifications and Market of Gazáwa—March resumed—Desolate Wilderness—Site of Dánkama—Struggle between Islámism and Paganism—Encampment near Kátsena—Estimate of Salt Caravan—Negro Horsemen—Equestrian Musicians—The Governor of Kátsena—Detained by him—The Governor’s Wiles—Disputes—Who is the “Káfer”?—Clapperton’s Companion—The Tawáti Bel-Ghét conciliated—Extortionate Demands—Subject about the Káfer resumed—The Presents—Promenade through the Town—The Governor’s Wishes—Taking Leave of him.