CHAPTER XV.

GOVERNMENT HOUSE—PETS—CURIOS—CRABS—NATIVE POLICE—DEATH OF MRS DE RICCI.

NASOVA, _March 23, 1876_.

DEAR NELL,—We seem to have settled down to a quietly regular home-life, which really is very pleasant. When I think of the vile March winds which you are now enduring, and contrast them with our lovely mornings and evenings, when every breath is balm, I have only one exceeding longing, which is that you were here to share their luxury. Now that everything is well established, the house moves like a clock, of which Abbey and his wife are the mainspring. They have trained a set of Fijians to wait at table really admirably; they move gracefully and quickly, and look exceedingly handsome in a uniform Lady Gordon has devised. Simply a white kilt and shirt, trimmed with crimson, with short sleeves and square-cut neck, to show a large boar’s tooth against the clear brown throat. Then Sir Arthur has imported a Hindoo cook, and two excellent Hindoo valets, who are also upper housemaids. The rest of the household includes labour-boys of every colour and nation. We adhere to regular English hours—that is to say, coffee is brought to our rooms at seven A.M., and breakfast follows about nine; luncheon at one, tea at five, dinner soon after seven. There is no particular reason for having it later, as it is always dark by six.

I must tell you of one triumph of common-sense in the adoption, by Sir Arthur and all his staff, of what we call the Nasova uniform—namely, dispensing with the misery of a coat, and substituting a bright-coloured silken waist-sash for braces: now all the gentlemen look fresh and cool. It is a very sad evening when first a new man-of-war comes in, especially one of some foreign nation, and the presence of punctilious strangers involves full dress. But as soon as ever friendly relations are established, they, too, are privileged to adopt this comfortable costume, greatly to their own satisfaction.

At present H.M.S. Nymphe and H.M.S. Sapphire are both in harbour. Our cousin, Captain Grant Suttie, commands the former, and Mr Gordon’s brother, Cosmo, is her first lieutenant. Captain Murray commands the Sapphire, and prides himself, as well he may, on the perfection of her every detail. His own cabins are exquisitely dainty in every respect; and Jack and Nevil are devoted to the lovely silky spaniels which are his inseparable companions. Their own particular little black-and-tan terrier Snip, has a child almost as big as itself, by name Bones. It has attached itself to me; and now the family is further increased by a fat and sportive puppy, of which Bones stands in great awe.

Sir Arthur has now acquired all manner of parrots—green and yellow, scarlet and black and purple—which wander all over the place. The most exquisite of all are the Kulas, tiny miniature parrots, combining green, scarlet, and purple in their gem-like plumage, and capable of being so thoroughly tamed that we have had them walking about the table at breakfast, climbing over the flowers, or sitting on our fingers, caressing us with their little rough tongues, and eating brown sugar and water, which, I believe, is the only safe food to give them. They are plucky little birds, and walk about the verandah on guard, and drive away the great big ducks, who stand in much awe of them. They also fight with the beautiful wee kingfisher. The latter is useful in the way of killing cockroaches. The other day Abbey observed one of the laughing-jackasses half choking with the effort to swallow something, and going to the rescue found the dear little kingfisher half-way down its throat; neither seemed any the worse, however. A few days afterwards he again heard a scuffle, and found both the jackasses trying to swallow the same rat; as neither would yield its prize, he carried out Solomon’s judgment with good effect, and both were satisfied!

I have been very busy for some time in painting careful studies of all the best objects of native art which come to any of us in our several collections. All the different patterns of carved bowls, with or without curiously shaped legs—some for oil, some for drink; all the multiform clubs and spears; all curious necklaces and ornaments; and a wonderful variety of wooden pillows. It is really a very interesting occupation, and now I am beginning to make drawings of every piece of pottery that any one of us acquires. I determined to do this, both because the pieces are so brittle that comparatively few will reach England in safety even with most careful packing, and also because, as each old woman works just according to her own fancy, the best pieces, many of which are really most artistic, are never made in duplicate—at all events it is rarely possible to obtain a second, and things made to order are utter failures.

Lady Gordon has had large shelves made at one end of the drawing-room, on which are placed some of our finest specimens of pottery, and very handsome they are, of rich greenish yellow and red, glazed with resin. For anti-macassars and sofa-covers we have handsome white native cloth, with rich brown pattern. And instead of a carpet, one large cool mat, on one corner of which Jack and Nevil (and any of their grown-up friends whom they can entrap) build vast castles with large wooden bricks which have just been made here. The dining-room is now beautifully decorated with trophies of spears and clubs, and great bowls, and native cloth. The house is all so thoroughly in keeping with the country; so infinitely preferable to any attempt at making a Europeanised “Government House,” and so much more suitable to Sir Arthur’s _rôle_ of premier chief of Fiji.

There are one or two minor points, however, on which we should be better pleased if our home was not so purely Fijian; if, for instance, it were not so very attractive to the crabs—a family which share all a Briton’s love for travelling and inspecting the homes of other races. Here they bravely leave their native shore, and walk inland, wherever fancy leads them; and this, I regret to say, is frequently into our bedrooms, where they find hiding-places in dark corners behind boxes and portfolios, whence at night they sally forth to make further researches, clattering their shell-armour against the woodwork, occasionally knocking down something which wakens us with a sudden start, and up we spring to find perhaps a great broad-backed chap like a “parten” brandishing his powerful claws within a few inches of our unprotected toes. Then follows an exciting chase—a regular game at hide-and-seek—which probably awakens some of our sleeping neighbours, greatly to their disgust. Of course it results in the capture of the intruder, but then comes the question what to do with him. I cannot bring myself to stab him with a spine of cocoa-nut leaf, as the Fijian girls do (piercing him beneath the main claw, which is his only vulnerable point); so I carry him down to the stream and throw him in, hoping he will travel back to the sea. I have had many such nocturnal adventures, and confess that I wish the inquisitive crabs would stay at home.

Not that these are by any means the only members of the crab family which explore our abodes. Nowhere have I seen such a number of hermit-crabs as swarm on these isles, occupying every shell on the beach, from the least to the greatest. There are literally myriads of them, and sometimes the whole shore appears to be moving. But these errant hermits are by no means content to remain on the sea-beach,—they wander far up the valleys, and meet us in most unexpected places, carrying their borrowed homes with them; and we occasionally find them creeping up our mosquito-nets, and in other equally startling hiding-places.

There are also land-crabs which climb the tall cocoa-nut palms, and feed on the nuts, tearing them open with strong unpleasant-looking pincers. And one kind is more troublesome than an English mole or rabbit, from the aggravating manner in which it burrows in the ground, making such innumerable holes as to render any bit of grass quite honeycombed. It would be very dangerous to ride on.

But by far the most attractive members of the crab family are those which inhabit such muddy shores as those of Suva harbour, near the mouths of the rivers, where they were to me an unfailing source of amusement. I spent hours watching them stealing cautiously out of their holes when they were sure the coast was clear, but darting back like a flash of lightning at the faintest movement of any living thing, even the vibration of the most cautious footstep. But if I waited very patiently and motionless, they presently reappeared one by one, till all along the shore I saw their strange bright-coloured claws waving aimlessly in the air. These crabs are tiny creatures, whose whole body rarely exceeds an inch in diameter; but they own one huge claw as large as their whole body, and when feeding they hold this up as a guard, as if shielding their eyes, while with a tiny one they gather up their food on the shore, lifting an atom at a time into their mouth. This large pincer is invariably of some bright colour—yellow, rose-colour, or scarlet—while the rest of the body is black and white, purply, or brown. You cannot think how curious it is to see the whole shore dotted with these waving yellow claws, which, on the very slightest movement on your part, vanish in the twinkling of an eye, and leave you standing alone on a dull expanse of brown mud, without a symptom to suggest the existence of this great army of crabs.

How delighted Ran would be if he could only see the daring little bronze lizards, with bright blue tails, which keep darting about the verandah and all about the rooms. I am sitting on a long wicker-chair, and a big lizard and a little one have been playing hide-and-seek for the last two hours, the little one darting in and out through the holes in the wicker-work, sometimes at my back, sometimes darting under the chair and reappearing in front: sometimes I catch a glimpse of a head whose diamond eyes peep through the little round holes in the wicker; then a bit of blue tail just reveals itself; sometimes it hides in the folds of my dress. Altogether it is one of a family of great darlings.

Besides these various strange creatures, we find continual amusement in watching the various natives who are constantly about the place. A detachment of the native police live in several cottages just on the other side of the _rara_, which is a small piece of rather level grass (a most rare and valuable possession). Here they drill morning and evening in correct European style; but I hope the word police will not suggest to you visions of the British “bobby.” These are a most picturesque force, and supply the Governor’s guard, boat-crews, orderlies, &c. We are such near neighbours that we hear their yangona _mékés_, whenever they brew their beloved grog; and we also have full benefit of morning and evening church parade and _lotu_. They have their own chaplain.

Some of them are exceedingly fine men, with strong muscular frame and good features, set off by a splendid head of frizzy hair, which, I am happy to say, Captain Knollys encourages them to grow long. Of course it does not approach the gigantic mop of heathen days, but still it is very large and carefully groomed. They periodically dip the whole in coral-lime, and go about for a day or two white-headed; and very becoming it is to them. I cannot speak of this as of one of the mysteries of the toilet, for the washing is done in public. The girls when undergoing this process look like court beauties got up for a fancy ball; and as for the men, we might almost think we had a staff of powdered footmen, were it not for a scarlet hybiscus or tuft of coloured grass knowingly stuck in on one side; I even sometimes see one long cock’s feather. When the lime is washed off, the hair, now beautifully clean, is combed out to its full length, and while the roots retain their rich brown, the outer locks vary from a warm russet to a tawny yellow, according to the quality of the lime. Both colours harmonise well with the rich brown madder tone of the skin. This also varies, ranging through senna to clear olive in the men of Tongan or Samoan blood. The hair and body next share a coating of cocoa-nut oil, and not till you have seen this applied can you realise the force of the expression, “Oil to make him of a cheerful countenance.” A Fijian who, from poverty or other cause, has failed to oil himself, is a most wretched-looking creature.

We have had a good many visits lately from different chiefs, several of whom have come to formal dinners, and have got through that ordeal in the most creditable manner. I should think that sitting on chairs for two hours, during a long series of courses of strange dishes, eaten with unwonted knives and forks, must be very trying to them; but they are so well bred, that they never allow themselves to appear bored, nor do they make any mistakes,—and of course the Fijian servants are on the alert to help them out of any dilemma; besides, at least one of the Governor’s interpreters is always of the party. Some of the ladies have been asked to dine, but have invariably excused themselves. They do not mind coming to luncheon, which is less alarming, and occasionally bring pretty children,—greatly to little Jack’s delight. He does love babies! Nevil rather despises them. A few days ago a party of Fijian ladies were caught in a tropical shower, just as they reached the house. All their pretty native finery was destroyed; but we found no difficulty about supplying dry clothing, as so little was required. Lady Gordon gave the principal lady a new shawl to wear as a _sulu_, and begged her to accept it, which she did with great satisfaction.

I forgot to tell you of one very pretty expedition I had last week. Dr Macgregor had to visit the isle of Naingani to see if it would do for a quarantine station, so he asked me to go with him. He had the harbour-master’s boat, manned by six wild-looking Solomon Island and New Britain boatmen. Three hours’ steady rowing brought us to a pretty isle, with white coral shore, haunted by myriads of hermit-crabs, and overshadowed by very fine old _ndelo_ trees. We lunched beside a pool of fresh water on the shore, and found two good streamlets. The people seemed very poor. The coral-patches were lovely, and I found much amusement watching black and yellow sea slugs, with heads like flowers, and black and white star-fish. Then I sketched the great trees, while the doctor did his inspection; after which we had a lovely row home.

There is a good deal of sickness going about just now. Amongst other sufferers is old Mrs Floyd, the mother of our parson, who has nursed her with such unwearied devotion, that now he is quite worn out. So last Sunday Captain Havelock undertook both services. He makes a first-rate chaplain.

I have just been up the hill with Mrs Havelock. We sat under the shadow of a great rock, with breezy sunshine all round us, and the lovely harbour below. I wished you had been sitting there with me. We watched the glowing sunset colours, though we were facing due east. Every morning we see the sun rise out of the sea; and at night we sit out in the starlight and watch the Great Bear, which appears just over Levuka, and is very brilliant. It seems strange, does it not, that we, so low in the southern hemisphere, should look on such a familiar reminder of home?

We have had a sad death in the family from gluttony! One of the omnivorous laughing-jackasses contrived to catch Mrs Abbey’s pet canary, and swallowed it, feathers and all. Strange to say, this actually proved too much for its digestion—or rather for its throat, for it died of suffocation. We shall hear its derisive laughter no more. Alas, poor jackass!

The English mail has just brought me a budget of home-letters, and news of many matters that come to us as vivid reminders of the far-away grey isles, which I do sometimes long to see, for the sake of the many warm hearts they contain,—not that I find these lacking in any corner of the earth. Good-bye, darling.—Your loving sister.

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FIJI, _March 29, 1876_.

DEAREST NELL,—I have just received, and greatly enjoyed, my budget of home-letters.... At present I am staying in Levuka, nursing my pretty, nice little friend, Mrs de Ricci, who has a very severe attack of fever. She has been for ten days in great danger, and is even now in high delirium. She and I have been great friends ever since we first met in Sydney; for she is a bright sunny little woman, always ready to make the best of everything. Her husband is the Attorney-General here; but their household, like most others in this land of discomfort, consists of a rough Irish girleen and an unkempt Fijian lad; so when the bonny little woman was taken very ill, Dr Macgregor came to see if I would go to help for a night. I have stayed on ever since, as she knows me through her delirium, and is content generally to do what I ask her. So hitherto we have rejected the various kind offers of help from friendly neighbours, and have divided the watches between us, and so manage very well. Nursing is much simplified in the tropics, where you have not to think about fires, happing up clothes, and keeping out draughts. On the other hand, nothing will keep, and your milk and beef-tea and chicken-broth go bad almost before you can use them. Our patient has to eat something every hour; and sometimes it is difficult to keep things fresh. However, I think she is getting on pretty well.

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NASOVA, _Sunday, April 2_.

Alas! our watching proved in vain. Yesterday morning, in the grey dawn, the sweet soul passed quietly away, unconsciously and without pain, in her early spring-time. She was only twenty-two. She had battled through the fever and subsequent dysentery, and we thought all danger was over, when suddenly a change for the worse set in, and it became evident there was no hope. We have the comfort of knowing that if human skill could have availed to keep her here, we certainly had excellent medical advice, having two very clever doctors—Macgregor and Mayo—in constant attendance, and two more in consultation.... Her one regret, since she arrived here, was that she had left her only child in England—a lovely little fellow, aged three. She has missed him sorely. Now we are glad to think that he is safe at home.... At sunset we laid her to rest, under the shadow of a great boulder of red rock, on a headland overlooking the sea, with palms and wild-citron trees and tall reedy grass all round,—a most lovely spot, especially at sunrise, when the sun comes up out of the sea—or in the beautiful moonlight. I found it one day while exploring the bush round the cemetery. It is within its boundaries, yet quite apart. Captain Knollys had a narrow path cleared yesterday leading to it. The evening was dreary beyond description. The sea and sky were leaden. We had the first part of the service in church by candle-light. Mr Maudslay had made a lovely cross of white flowers, which lay on the coffin. By the time we came out it was quite dark, and we stumbled along the wretched path through the town to the shore, where boats were waiting. Of course we were all present, and sad enough, as you may well believe; for this is a heavy cloud for our small community.

It is two miles from the church to the cemetery (which lies a mile beyond Nasova). Happily it did not rain while we were going, but previous downpours had made the steep clay path leading up to the hill from the sea-beach so slippery, that it was all the sailors could do to carry the coffin (Captain Grant Suttie had sent his boats and men from the Nymphe). The service was read by the dim light of a lantern, and was scarcely ended when the rain fell in torrents—a dismal night indeed....

To-day is clear and beautiful. Arthur Gordon went up the hill to search for lovely mosses, and Baron von Hügel and I made a large cross of ferns, white silky grass, and scarlet balsams, which we carried to the now sacred headland—one more spot of earth to recall our favourite motto, _Ci rivedremo_.[28] To-morrow a tall rude cross of cocoa-nut palm will be placed there, to mark the spot, till a permanent one of granite can come from England. On this island there is no stone suitable for the purpose,—nothing but coarse conglomerate. I do not need to tell you how closely this has touched us all, and tended to draw us together. One of our little sisterhood already gone, in her very prime.... Her husband returns to England by the first steamer to see his child.

Sir William and Lady Hackett are also to leave almost immediately, he having been appointed a judge of the Supreme Court in Ceylon.[29]...

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NASOVA, _April 6_.

I have just received a most kind letter from the Langhams, who are going for a month’s cruise among the small isles in the centre of the group. They go in the mission-ship the Jubilee, and invite me to go with them. Of course I have accepted gladly; and the fact of the mission-house at Bau being thus left empty is such a grand chance of a change for Lady Gordon and the chicks, that the Governor has asked for the loan of it, which has been cordially granted, and Mrs Havelock will accompany them.

We all felt that after such a trying time a change of scene would be very desirable; but one of the many drawbacks of this colony is, that there is literally no place to which ladies and children can go for a few days, unless such a chance as this occurs. Even the wretched house which Sir Arthur rented at Suva last December is now turned into a public-house, where we could not stay again; and however hospitably inclined our white neighbours may be, there are probably not half-a-dozen in the whole group who have even one spare room. So it happens that neither Mrs Havelock, Lady Hackett, Mrs Macgregor (nor dear little Mrs de Ricci), have had one day’s absence from Levuka since they landed here in July.

I believe the real secret of preserving health in this climate is frequent change of air, and, as you know, I have been pretty constantly on the move. But it is not every lady who could enjoy the sort of prolonged gipsy or picnic life as much as I do. Now we are starting to try it in a new phase.

H.M.S. Barracouta has just come into harbour, and Captain Stevens dined here last night. He unfortunately got mixed in the Samoan difficulties, and has brought Colonel Steinberger here as a prisoner, which is rather embarrassing. A few days ago a barque arrived here from Samoa, bringing eight wounded sailors belonging to the Barracouta. They got into an apparently senseless row with the natives, in which three blue-jackets were killed. Doubtless this will involve some further complication.