Chapter 12 of 13 · 3997 words · ~20 min read

Part 12

Sow CELERY seed in a hotbed or cold frame. When a few inches high, plant five inches apart, in a bed, in the open ground, which should be especially prepared for the purpose by extra heavy manuring. Let the plants remain in this bed, to grow strong and stocky. Never let the ground in this bed become dry; give thorough cultivation and cut off the tops of the plants once or twice, to make them grow stocky. When six or eight inches high, lift the plants carefully and set them six or eight inches apart, in trenches a foot wide and fourteen or more inches in depth. Several inches of rotted stable manure should be mixed with the soil at the bottom of the trench. When planting, firm the ground well around each plant. Supply enough water to keep the ground at the bottom of the trench very moist all the time. As the plants grow, press soil around the bottom of each plant and tie together at the top with string, to keep the stems straight and in an upright position. The blanching or earthing up is done by gradually filling up the trench with ground as the plants grow. Care should be taken not to get any ground into the hearts of the plants and never to earth up while they are wet. Sowing seed in the open ground and growing plants on the level surface may do for cool northern latitudes, but my experience is that it will not do here in southern Illinois. _Boston Market_ and _Crawford’s Half Dwarf_ are as good as any of the taller varieties, and are more easily blanched.[26]

Seed of ENDIVE should not be sown early, as this plant is grown chiefly for late summer and autumn salad. In this latitude we sow at intervals from the middle of June to the 1st of August. Seed may be sown either broadcast or in drills, but the plants should be thinned so as to stand from six to nine inches apart. It may also be sown in a seed bed and be transplanted to the proper distance apart. When the plants are full grown, tie all the outside leaves together over the heart, to blanch the inner leaves, which will take about a week. To keep up a constant supply, some should be tied up every few days. Never tie up when the leaves are wet or they will soon decay. _Green Curled_ and _Batavian_ are both very good.[27]

TURNIP and winter RADISH seed may be sown from the latter part of July to the middle of August. If the ground is reasonably free from weed seeds it is advisable to sow broadcast, otherwise it is better to sow in drills. In either case, it is well to remember that the plants should be, like the first settlers, without a near neighbor. The size and quality of the turnips and radishes will depend, to a great extent, upon thin sowing of the seed, or, what is still better, a judicious thinning of the plants when young. The largest and sweetest turnips we have ever grown were of the _Purple Top Strap-leaved_ variety, and were grown as a second crop after onions. The seed was sown broadcast, and no further attention given the plants except thinning while young. In the same manner and on similar soil we raised _White_ and _Black Spanish_ winter radishes of excellent quality, that weighed from four to seven pounds each. The _Chinese Rose_, though not so large, is the handsomest and one of the best winter radishes grown. The _California Mammoth_ is a superb fall radish, but does not keep well in winter. The _White Stuttgart_ is regarded as a summer radish, but I have had it, grown as a winter radish, to keep firm and solid till April.

KALE, or BORECOLE, is a valuable plant for spring greens. The variety called _Dwarf German Greens_ is best for this purpose. Sow seed in drills about September 1st, and give thorough cultivation till the approach of cold weather. When winter sets in, give protection with a covering of straw or similar material, put on so as not to smother the plants. The most effective way of doing this is to place a layer of fine brush or cornstalks between the drills, to a height equal to or exceeding the height of the plants in the drills. Then cover all with a layer of clean straw, six inches deep. The object of putting the brush between the drills is to provide an air cavity between the plants and the covering.[28]

CORN SALAD, or VETTICOST, is a valuable little plant which is used for salad, the same as lettuce. For spring use, sow the seed any time during the month of September, and at the approach of cold weather cover the bed with a few inches of straw or hay. It should be used very early in spring, as it soon runs to seed when warm weather sets in. Although this plant will bear neglect, it will also repay good treatment.

Seed of winter SPINACH and winter LETTUCE should also be sown during the month of September, and the plants should be protected with a covering of straw, or similar material, during winter. Put on part of the covering when the ground begins to freeze, and as the cold increases, add covering till it reaches a depth of four or five inches. In regions where heavy snowfalls can be depended upon, it may not be necessary to protect any of the above-named plants, but here and elsewhere, where winters are severe and the snowfall light, it is of the utmost importance to provide protection, or no success need be expected. _Hammersmith_ is the best winter lettuce, and _Round Leaf_ and _Prickly Winter_ are two good varieties of spinach for fall sowing.

The beds of kale, corn salad, winter lettuce and winter spinach should be arranged side by side, and alongside of the parsnips and salsify, so as not to interfere with the plowing of the ground in fall and in spring. As some of the parsnips and salsify will be left in the ground to be dug at leisure in spring, it is best to have all these vegetables side by side, so that when the parsnips and salsify[29] are dug, and the crop of kale, corn salad, etc., harvested, the whole ground can be plowed at once.

Before closing, a few words in regard to watering and transplanting may not prove amiss.

The best time for watering is in the evening. Though water may be given to the roots at any time, it should never be sprinkled on the foliage in the hot sun, as that causes brown spots or blisters where it comes in contact with the leaves. More injury than good results from beginning to water a plant, and then not keeping it up till the necessity ceases. As soon as the ground begins to get dry after watering, the soil should be stirred with the hoe. When you start to water a plant, do it thoroughly, so as to give the roots a soaking at every watering, or else do not water at all.

The main points to be regarded in transplanting, are handling the plant carefully, so as to injure the roots as little as possible, planting firmly and shading to prevent the sun from withering or scorching the leaves. It should be borne in mind, that it is not nature’s design that a plant should be transplanted, and we ought to show sympathy for a plant as well as for our fellow-creatures.

And now, having taken a walk with you through the kitchen garden, all I have further to say is, may you be favored with seasonable rain and sunshine, for, be it remembered, without the co-operation of the elements all our efforts are in vain.

INDEX.

Aromatic herbs, 176.

Artichoke, Globe, 175. Jerusalem, 175.

Asparagus, 40, 173. varieties of, 43. Barr’s Mammoth, 43. Conover’s Colossal, 43. Purple Top, 43.

Beans, 43. Bush Beans, 46, 180. Best of All Dwarf Bean, 46. Black Wax, 180. Burpee’s Perfection Wax, 44. Champion Bush Bean, 48. Early Valentine, 180. Golden Wax, 46, 180. Limas, 50. Dreer’s Improved Lima, 50. Extra Early Lima, 50. King of the Garden, 50. Pole Beans, Snap Varieties, 48, 185. Burpee’s White Zulu, 48. Dutch Case Knife, 186. Golden Wax Flageolet, 48. Large White Lima, 185. Lazy Wife’s, 48. Southern Prolific, 186. White Creaseback, or Best of All, 48, 186.

Beets, 51. varieties of, 52. Burpee’s Improved Blood Turnip, 54. Eclipse, 52, 187. Edmand’s Early Turnip, 52. Long Blood Red, 187.

Blackberries, 161. Gregg Black Cap, 161. Wilson, Jr., 161. Wilson’s Early, 161.

Borecole, 192.

Cabbages, 54. Early or Summer, 54, 181. Early varieties of, 61. Early Flat Dutch, 181. Early Jersey Wakefield, 61, 181. Early Summer, 61. Extra Early Etampes, 61. Extra Early Express, 61. Fottler’s Brunswick, 181. Vandergaw, 61. Late or Winter, 55. Late varieties of, 61. Burpee’s Surehead, 61, 187. Danish Ball Head, 63. Large Late Drumhead, 187. Late Flat Dutch, 187. Short-stem Drumhead, 63.

Cantaloupe, or Musk Melon, 69. varieties of, 72. Burpee’s Netted Gem, 72. Emerald Gem, 72. Montreal Green Nutmeg, 74.

Carrots, 67. varieties of, 67. Danvers Half-long Orange, 67. Early Very Short Horn, or Golden Ball, 68. Ox Heart, 68. Red Saint Vallery, 69. Short Horn, 67.

Cauliflower, 65, 181. varieties of, 66. Burpee’s Best Early, 67. Early Snowball, 66, 182. Extra Early Dwarf Erfurt, 66, 182.

Celery, 74, 189. varieties of, 80. Boston Market, 190. Crawford’s Half Dwarf, 190. Crimson or Red Celery, 82. Dwarf Golden Heart, 81. Golden Self-blanching, 81.

Celery, White Plume, 82.

Chicorée, 191.

Chives, 175.

Cold frames and hotbeds, 21.

Compost, 166.

Corn Salad, 192.

Corn, Sweet, 83, 182. varieties of, 85. Amber Cream, 86. Crosby’s Early Twelve-rowed, 86. Potter’s Excelsior, 86. Stowell’s Evergreen, 86, 182. The Cory, 85.

Cucumbers, 87. varieties of, 89. Burpee’s Giant Pera, 89. Early Green Prolific, 89, 187. Early Russian, 89. Improved Early White Spine, 89, 187. London Long Green, 89, 187.

Currants, 159.

Dewberry, Lucretia, 161.

Diagram of the garden, 15, 16, 172. Key to the, 17.

Dwarf or Bush Beans, 180.

Early or Summer Cabbages, 54.

Egg Plant, 91, 183. varieties of, 94. Black Pekin, 184. Extra Early Dwarf Round Purple, 94. New York Improved Large Purple, 94, 184.

Endive, 191. Batavian, 191. Green Curled, 191.

Garden, diagram of the, 15, 16. laying out the, 12. planting the, 35. situation of the, 9. soil of the, 11.

Globe Artichoke, 175.

Gooseberries, 159.

Grapes, 163.

Gumbo, 188.

Hammond’s Slug Shot, 91.

Hops, 95.

Horse Radish, 94, 174.

Hotbeds and cold frames, 21.

Jerusalem Artichoke, 175.

Kale, or Borecole, 192. Dwarf German Greens, 192.

Key to diagram, 17.

Kohl Rabi, 181, 189. Early White Vienna, 181.

Late or Winter Cabbages, 55.

Laying out the garden, 12.

Leeks, 188, 189.

Lettuce, 96, 178, 193. varieties of, 100. Burpee’s Golden Heart, 179. Burpee’s Hard-Head, 100. Burpee’s Silver Ball, 101. Burpee’s Tomhannock, 100. Cos, 179. Hammersmith, 193. New York, 179. Perpetual, 179. Philadelphia White Cabbage, 102. Stonehead Golden Yellow, 101. The Deacon, 102. The Hanson, 102, 179. The Tennis Ball, 102.

Lucretia Dewberry, 161.

Manure, 167.

Musk Melon, 69.

Okra, 102, 189.

Onions, 103, 180. varieties of, 108. Large Red Wethersfield, 109, 181. White Globe, 109. White Silverskin, or White Portugal, 109. Yellow Globe Danvers, 108, 181. Italian varieties of, 110, 181. Burpee’s Mammoth Silver King, 112. Earliest White Green, 111. Giant Red Rocca, 110. Giant Yellow Rocca, 111.

Parsley, 112, 176. Extra Curled Dwarf, 113.

Parsnips, 113, 178.

Parsnips, varieties of, 115. Improved Guernsey, 115.

Peas, 115, 179. varieties of, 117. American Wonder, 118, 180. Burpee’s Extra Early, 117. Burpee’s Quality, 120. Burpee’s Quantity, 120. Champion of England, 120. Extra Early Premium Gem, 118. Laxton’s Earliest of All, 118. Laxton’s Evolution, 119. Philadelphia Extra Early, 180. Pride of the Market, 118. Telephone, 180. The Stratagem, 119.

Peppers, 121, 188. varieties of, 122. Bull Nose and Golden Dawn, 123, 189. Burpee’s Golden Upright, 123. Burpee’s Ruby King, 122, 189. Celestial Pepper, 124. Long Narrow Cayenne, 124. Procopp’s Giant, 124. Red Cluster, 123. Spanish Monstrous, 124.

Pie Plant, 174.

Planting the garden, 35.

Pole Beans, 185.

Potatoes, 133, 183. Early Ohio, 183. Sweet, 135, 188.

Procuring the seeds and plants, 15.

Pumpkins, 125. varieties of, 126. Golden Marrow, 126. Quaker Pie, 126. Saint George or Old Negro, 126. Small Sugar, 126.

Radishes, 126, 178, 191. varieties of, 128. Burpee’s Earliest, 128. California Mammoth White Winter, 128, 192. Chinese Rose Winter, 128, 192. Earliest Carmine, Olive-shaped, 130. Early Long Scarlet Short Top. 129. Early Oval Dark Red, 130. Early Round Dark Red, 130. Early White Turnip, 130. French Breakfast, 130, 179. Half Long Scarlet, 130. Round Black Spanish Winter, 128, 192. White-tipped Turnip, 130. Wood’s Early Frame, 130. Summer varieties of, 131. Burpee’s Surprise, 132. Chartiers or Shepherd, 132, 179. Giant White Stuttgart, 131, 179, 192. Golden Globe, 131, 179. Long White Globe, 132. Long White Vienna, 131. White Strasburg, 132. Winter varieties of, 132. California Mammoth White, 132, 192. Chinese Rose, 133. White Spanish, 192.

Raspberries, Black Cap and Red, 161. Philadelphia and Cuthbert, 161.

Rhubarb, 159, 174.

Sage, 136, 176.

Salad, Corn, 193.

Salsify, 178.

Saving seeds, 167.

Seeds and plants, procuring the, 15.

Situation of the garden, 9.

Slug Shot, Hammond’s, 91.

Small Lima, or Sieva Bean, 186.

Soil of the garden, 11.

Spinach, 136, 178, 193. varieties of, 137. New Long Standing, 138. New Thick-leaved Round, 137, 193. Norfolk Savoy-leaved, 137. Prickly Winter, 193.

Squashes, 138. Summer varieties of, 140. Brazil Sugar, 187. Early White Bush, or Patty-Pan, 140. Golden Summer Crookneck, 140. White Pineapple, or White Turban, 140, 187. Winter varieties of, 141. Essex Hybrid, 141, 187. Hubbard, 142, 187.

Strawberries, 164.

Summer Cabbages, 54.

Sweet Corn, 83, 182.

Sweet Herbs, 176. Anise, 176. Caraway, 176. Coriander, 176. Dill, 176. Sage, 176. Summer Savory, 176. Sweet Basil, 176. Sweet Fennel, 176. Sweet Marjoram, 176. Thyme, 176.

Sweet Potato, 135, 188.

Tomatoes, 142, 183. varieties of, 146. Burpee’s Cardinal, 146. Burpee’s Climax, 148. Essex Early Hybrid, 148. Extra Early Advance, 146. Golden Queen, 149. Livingston’s Perfection, 184. Mikado, 184, 185. Pear-shaped Yellow, 151. Red Cherry, 157. Turner Hybrid, 149, 185. Victoria, 151. White Apple, 151.

Tools, 29. Cultivator, 31. Fire-fly hand plow, 33. Hand hoes, 35. Harrow, 30. Plow, 29. Roller, 31. Seed drill, 34. Shovels, 35. Spades, 35. Steel rakes, 35. Trowels, 35. Wheel hoe, 32.

Turnips, 151, 191. varieties of, 153. Early Red, or Purple Top Strap-leaved, 153, 192. Early White Flat Dutch, 153. Extra Early Purple Top Milan, 154. White Egg, 154.

Vetticost, 192.

Watermelons, 154. varieties of, 156. Burpee’s Mammoth Ironclad, 156. Cuban Queen, 158. Hungarian Honey, 156. Ice Cream, 159. Icing, or Ice Rind, 157. Jordan’s Gray Monarch, 159. Kolb’s Gem, 158. Phinney’s Early, 159.

Winter Cabbages, 55.

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FOOTNOTES:

[1] Miss Moll says that this rusting can be prevented by only hoeing the beans when the soil is dry. We would also particularly recommend _Burpee’s Perfection Wax_, a fine new variety, that has so far proved free from rust.--ED.

[2] See the method of covering the seed of Lima beans described by Miss L. M. Moll, and our note on the same.--ED.

[3] We would also particularly recommend _Burpee’s White Zulu_, a new variety of 1888. It is one of the earliest of pole beans, immensely productive, and the broad, handsome, white pods, eight to ten inches long, are of the choicest quality.--ED.

[4] The _Extra Early Express_, a new variety, just introduced from France, and seed of which we distributed for trial this year, has proved _eight to ten days earlier_ than the Etampes. The heads do not average quite as large as the Etampes, but are of equally as good quality and of the shape shown in the illustration on page 60.--ED.

[5] For years, Mr. Vandergaw, a large cabbage grower of Long Island, has had a _second-early_ cabbage fully as early as Early Summer and with much larger heads. This is known as _the Vandergaw Cabbage_, and is only now being generally introduced. The heads are very large and solid, of the shape shown in the illustration on page 64; it is a good keeper, and altogether a good variety, also, for winter use.--ED.

[6] Other distinct and good varieties of American onions are _Southport Yellow Globe_ and _Large Red Globe_, _Yellow Strasburg or Dutch_, and the _Extra Early Red_. For more complete information, invaluable to all who propose growing onions on a large scale for market, see the new book, “HOW TO GROW ONIONS, WITH NOTES ON VARIETIES,” an exhaustive treatise written by T. Greiner, of New Jersey, Col. A. H. Arlie, of Oregon, and W. Atlee Burpee.--ED.

[7] Equally as early is _Laxton’s Earliest of All_, which is a blue-seeded variety, of very fine quality and handsome appearance.--ED.

[8] The _Stratagem_ is also a remarkably fine pea, of the same type as _Pride of the Market_, except that the large, handsome peas are _wrinkled_.--ED.

[9] Mr. Darlington’s remarks on the varieties of peas would be incomplete without reference to two remarkable new peas, obtained by crosses made some years since, but only now (1888) being introduced. These peas have been called _Burpee’s Quantity_ (which is illustrated above), and _Burpee’s Quality_,--the former because it is the most productive of all, as many as ninety pods having been counted upon a single vine--the latter, because, while also very productive, it excels other varieties in its peculiarly rich, sugary flavor. Both varieties grow two and a half feet high, but will well repay brushing, and both are main-crop peas,--Burpee’s Quantity being ready for the table in about two months, and Burpee’s Quality in seven weeks from planting.

Probably no one in America is better posted as to the relative value in the garden of the different peas than MR. WILLIAM FALCONER, Glen Cove, N. Y., the well-known writer on garden topics. A few peas of Burpee’s Quantity (then known as No. 75) were sent to Mr. Falconer for trial. On Oct. 28th, 1887, he writes, “The pea, No. 75, I had from you this year has given me much satisfaction; indeed, so well pleased am I with it that I wish to grow it next year as a main crop. Season medium to late, grows two and a half feet, and in the way of Abundance; peas large, closely packed together in tight pods, and, when cooked, of capital quality. _Without any exception, the heaviest cropper among all my peas this year._”--ED.

[10] A very distinct and novel variety has just been introduced from China, under the name of _Celestial Pepper_. The small, nearly heart-shaped fruits are produced in great abundance, growing upright, and are of a beautiful creamy yellow color until fully ripe, when they turn coral red: the plant is handsome enough for the flower garden. Among the largest of the sweet, mild red peppers are _Spanish Monstrous_ and _Procopp’s Giant_, while among the hottest of all peppers is the _Long Narrow Cayenne_.--ED.