II.

THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE CHOCOLATE-PLANT.

[Illustration: THEOBROMA CACAO.]

The chocolate plant is known to botanists as _Theobroma Cacao_. The first or generic word in this name means _food of the gods_. The genus contains six species, only one of which is generally cultivated. It is probable, however, that some of the seeds which find their way into commerce are yielded by other and wild species. It is, moreover, more than likely that among the numerous varieties of Theobroma Cacao now cultivated there may be some hybrids between the different forms.

[Illustration: FLOWERS, FRUIT, AND SEEDS OF THEOBROMA.

_From an old engraving._]

The plant belongs to the Sterculiaceæ, a natural order containing forty-one genera and five hundred and twenty species. The general habit of the tree is well shown in the engraving.

[Illustration: FLOWERS, FRUIT, AND SEEDS OF THEOBROMA.

_From a recent drawing._]

The seeds of the plant are borne in pods, represented in the illustrations on pages 17 and 18, the former taken from one of the early works on the subject. No. 1 in the first engraving exhibits the ripened pod, 5 and 6 the fruits in different stages of growth. No. 2 shows the pod cut open and displays some of the seeds, while 3 and 4 are the seeds themselves,--the former in its natural state, the latter with the seed-coats removed.

The pod is irregular and angular, much like some forms of cucumbers, but more pointed at the lower extremity, and more distinctly grooved. It measures in length nine inches to a foot, or even more, and about half as much in diameter. The color, when young, is green, becoming later dark yellow or yellowish brown. The rind is thick and tough. The pod is filled with closely packed “beans,” or seeds, imbedded in a mass of cellular tissue, sometimes of pleasant subacid taste. The seeds are about as large as ordinary almonds, whitish when fresh, and of a disagreeable bitter taste. When dried they become brown.

The fruits are about four months in ripening; but they appear and mature the whole year through. In point of fact, however, there are chief harvests, usually in early spring, but this is different for different countries.

The following extract from a comparatively recent consular report gives a clear idea of the modern method of cultivating the plant in some parts of South America. The extract was given in our former edition, but it is thought best to transcribe it here.

“The tree grows to the average height of thirteen feet, and from five to eight inches in diameter, is of spreading habit and healthy growth, and although requiring much more care and attention than the coffee-tree, yet its equally reliable crops require comparatively little labor in properly preparing for the market.

“... There are two varieties of the cocoa-tree cultivated in Venezuela, known as El Criollo and El Trinitario, respectively, the former of which, though not so prolific, nor as early fruiting as the latter, is yet superior to it in size, color, sweetness, and oleaginous properties of the fruit, and in the fact that it always finds ready sale, while the latter is often dull or neglected. The difference in price of the two varieties is also marked, the former being quoted at $28 to $30 per fanega (110 pounds), while the latter commands approximately half that price.

“While coffee can be successfully cultivated under a temperature of 60 degrees F., the cocoa-tree, for proper development and remunerative crops, requires a temperature of 80 degrees F.; hence the area of the cocoa belt is comparatively restricted, and the cocoa-planter presumably has not to fear the fierce competition that he has encountered in the cultivation of cotton and coffee. Besides the condition of temperature above stated, this crop needs a moist soil and humid atmosphere; and so the lands along the coast of the Caribbean sea, sloping from the mountain-tops to the shore, bedewed by the exhalations of the sea and irrigated by the numerous rivulets that course down the valleys, are found to be, in all respects, well adapted to the profitable cultivation of cocoa. And while the lands in the interior possessing facilities for irrigation may be said to be equally as good for the purpose, yet the absence of roads, and the consequently difficult transportation of produce on the backs of donkeys over rugged mountain paths, materially reduce the profits on the crop before it reaches the market.

“A cocoa plantation is set in quite the same manner as an apple-orchard, except that the young stalks may be transplanted from the nursery after two months’ growth. No preparation of the soil is deemed necessary, and no manures are applied. The young trees are planted about fifteen feet equidistant, which will accommodate two hundred trees to the acre. Between rows, and at like spaces, are planted rows of the Bucare, a tree of rapid growth, that serves to shade the soil as well as to shield the young trees from the torrid sun. Small permanent trenches must be maintained from tree to tree throughout the entire length of the rows, so that, at least once in the week, the stream, descending from the mountains, may be turned into these little channels and bear needful moisture to trees and soil. At the age of five years the plantation begins to bear fruit, and annually yields two crops, that ripening in June being termed the crop of San Juan, and that maturing at Christmas being known as the crop of La Navidad. The average age to which the trees attain, under proper care, may be estimated at forty years, during which period it will give fair to full crops of fruit; but of course it must be understood that, as in our fruit orchards, a new tree must be set from time to time to replace one that may be decayed or blighted. After careful inquiry it may be safely stated that the average crop of the cocoa plantation at ten years of age, and under a proper state of cultivation, will amount to five hundred or six hundred pounds per acre.”

The method of preparing the fruit for shipment is thus described in the “Encyclopædia Britannica”:--

“In gathering, the workman is careful to cut down only fully ripened pods, which he adroitly accomplishes with a long pole armed with two prongs, or a knife at its extremity. The pods are left in a heap on the ground for about twenty-four hours; they are then cut open and the seeds are taken out and carried in baskets to the place where they undergo the operation of sweating or curing. There the acid juice which accompanies the seeds is first drained off, after which they are placed in a sweating-box, in which they are enclosed and allowed to ferment for some time, great care being taken to keep the temperature from rising too high. The fermenting process is, in some cases, affected by throwing the seeds into holes or trenches in the ground, and covering them with earth or clay. The seeds in this process, which is called “claying,” are occasionally stirred to keep the fermentation from proceeding too violently. The sweating is a process which requires the very greatest attention and experience, as on it, to a great extent, depends the flavor of the seeds and their fitness for preservation. The operation varies according to the state of the weather, but a period of about two days yields the best results. Thereafter the seeds are exposed to the sun for drying, and those of a fine quality should then assume a warm, reddish tint, which characterizes beans of a superior quality.”

Cocoa-beans are derived chiefly from the following sources, here arranged alphabetically. A recent author has classified them under two heads, unfermented and fermented; but this classification is very misleading, since it happens that from a few of the places mentioned variable proportions of both sorts are brought to market. Ariba (Ecuador), Bahia (Brazil), Caracas (Venezuela), Cayenne (French Guiana), Ceylon, Guatemala, Haiti, or Port au Prince, Java, Machala, or ordinary Guayaquil (Ecuador), Maracaiba (Colombia), Mararion (Brazil), St. Domingo, Surinam (Dutch Guiana), Trinidad (W. I.), from Africa, the Seychelles, Martinique, and Bourbon, variable amounts are beginning to appear as regular products. It is generally understood that some of the best sorts of South American cocoa are consumed at home and do not find their way, in definite quantities, or as a stated supply, to any foreign ports. Among these are Soconusco and Esmeraldas. At the last French exposition these and other very fine sorts from Venezuela and Ecuador were exhibited. New fields are being opened up in many directions to meet the increasing demand for the product.