Part 10
Next morning—Sunday—went to Meeting. Mr. Dana of Marblehead preached; very devout, unaffected young man; saw not a soul I had ever seen before, excepting Mr. Grey; thought I should not have known him as I scarcely saw his face before. Found Mrs. Hasket Derby on my return, was disappointed in her personal appearance; instead of finding the elegant, majestic, beautiful creature my imagination had pictured, I beheld a little, short, plump woman dressed in black, a coarse complexion and anxious eyes, yet I had not been in her company an hour without confessing to myself she was the most agreeable, fascinating woman I ever saw. She continually pleases and delights you; she appears to live for others, nor ever bestows a thought upon herself, yet so perfectly unconscious of it, that it seems inherent in her disposition, and to flow without any effort. She planned parties of amusement as I was a stranger, and we fixed upon Friday for a fishing party to Nahant; sent to Boston for some to meet us. Monday a small party at Mrs. Derby’s came to tea. I rode in the chaise with Mr. Grey. Mrs. Grey and a Mr. White, an Englishman, in her carriage. Mr. Coffin and Miss Grey in another chaise,—Mr. and Mrs. Hasket Derby. We walked on a hill near the house, where we had the most extensive prospect I ever saw—the whole world seemed spread before us covered with the richly variegated carpet of nature. We returned home in the evening with a fine moon, and all went to Mr. Grey’s to spend the evening. Most charming time; treated with great attention by Mrs. Grey, who is, in my opinion, a fine woman, domestic, fond of her children, and never so happy as in contributing to their amusement, and possesses fine sense, animated, unceremonious, and agreeable.—Tuesday, Doct. and Mrs. Coffin and Mrs. Sumner came down from Boston; dined together, and all went to Hasket Derby’s farm in the afternoon. Mrs. Grey and Miss Bishop of the party; glad to see Miss Bishop—one of my old school-mates. Had a most charming ride; went in the carriage with Mrs. Grey. All returned to Mr. John Derby’s and spent the evening. William Grey and his father came in the evening; walked in the garden.—Wednesday, large party of gentlemen to dine with Doct. Coffin. In the afternoon all went to Mrs. Grey’s; danced in the evening. Miss Bishop plays and sings charmingly. Thursday, Doct. and Mrs. Coffin went home, and in the afternoon went to Mrs. Hasket Derby’s with a party; every thing elegant and pleasant. Friday to Nahant, fishing—Mr. and Mrs. Hasket Derby, Mr. and Mrs. John Derby, Mr. and Mrs. Hersey Derby, Miss Bishop, Mr. Grey, Mr. Coffin, and myself, Miss Heller, Mr. Prince, who looks very much like Horatio, and several others. Met there some smart Boston beaux,—Mr. Amory Parkman, Turner, etc., etc. Spent a most charming day; caught but few fish, and very warm, yet pleasant notwithstanding—set out for home just as the sun was setting. I returned in the chaise with William Grey, Frank with Miss Bishop,—rode 2 miles on the beach, the tide down, sun just setting; ’twas charming and delightful. Saturday went out to Hersey Derby’s farm to tea, went to the bathing house, summer house—and saw the Rumford[28] kitchen—elegant place, beautiful children,—rainy afternoon, we could not enjoy the pleasures of the country so well. Sunday—went to meeting and to tea with Mrs. Hasket Derby; met company from Boston,—two beaux, Mr. Lee and Mr. Davis. Monday—a party of young ladies at Mrs. Grey’s; danced in the evening, went home at eleven, spent half an hour at Hasket Derby’s on my way; Ellen was there. Tuesday—rode out with Mrs. Grey after dinner, returned and drank tea with Mrs. Lambert, found company at Ellen’s on my return—Mr. and Mrs. Hasket Derby, Hersey Derby and wife, Mr. Prince and wife,—Patty Derby that was—looks like old _Madame Milliken_[29] very much. Mr. and Mrs. Hasket Derby wish me to go to the Springs with them; know not what to do. Ellen says go by all means, never will have such another opportunity; she thinks my Father and Mother would not object if I had time to write them, which would be impossible, they go to-morrow—what shall I do? I must go over after breakfast, I will consult Mrs. J. Derby. I would not go for the world if I thought my Father or Mother would not be pleased. Mr. and Mrs. Derby go alone in their carriage. I must think of it.
Wednesday, Salem, July, 1802.
What will you say, my Dear Mother, when you find I am gone with Mr. and Mrs. Hasket Derby to the Saratoga Springs? But I hasten to explain all. Mr. and Mrs. Derby were going in their carriage alone. Mrs. Derby says she never travelled without some lady, and urged my accompanying her. I thought ’twas only a compliment and treated it as such, but when I found she seriously wished it and her husband joined his influence, I began to think how it would do. I consulted Ellen and Mr. Derby, and they both thought I ought not to refuse an opportunity of seeing the country which perhaps may never again occur—a better one surely can never occur. To go with Mr. and Mrs. Derby is surely an advantage I can never hope to meet with again. Believe me, nothing would have induced me to think of going with them unless they had been very urgent. Ellen and Mr. Derby both say they doubt not you would approve the plan if you were here to consult. If I did not think so myself nothing would induce me to go—still I regret not having it in my power to wait an answer from you, but to-morrow afternoon we must set out. Ellen has lent me everything necessary for my journey,—indeed I can never repay her. She is the most generous being I ever saw. She has nothing in the house but is at my service,—all her handsome dresses she wishes me to carry, indeed everything that I can possibly want she has supplied me with. I am glad that I shall not be compelled to purchase anything that would be unnecessary after my return. I think I shall borrow some money of her, as it is impossible I can receive any from home, and if I do not need it, I need not spend it. You may assure yourself I shall remember to economise as much as possible. It seems as if Ellen and Mrs. Derby tried which should most oblige me. As I never determined to go till this morning, Mrs. Derby said ’twas impossible to make any new clothes, nay unnecessary, and insisted I should take any thing of hers I should want, but Ellen would not admit of that. I know not the route we shall take, but Mrs. Derby says we shall probably _go_ or _return_ thro’ _Leicester_.[30] I shall be gratified very much at an opportunity of seeing our relations there. Ellen promises to write. I never was treated with more attention in my life. Ellen heaps me with favors, and now I have thought of this journey, she thinks she can’t do enough. I intend keeping a particular journal while I am gone, which you shall all peruse on my return. We shall probably be gone four or five weeks, as it is two or three hundred miles from here. When you write me direct your letters to Salem and Mr. Derby will forward them as he will know where we are. Has Octavia returned? tell her I shall leave my Salem journal to be sent to her the first opportunity. If I go thro’ Newport I shall endeavor to find out Miss Crary and Miss Clarke, and wish I had a letter from her.
And now, my dear Mother, assure me you approve of my going and I shall have nothing to trouble me. My Father, I think, would not object to it if I could know his opinion. Mr. Grey (Wm. Grey) says he is sure he would not disapprove of it, if he knew in what good protection I was. By-the-bye, I have received every attention from Mr. Grey’s family, and Mrs. Grey is a remarkably fine woman. I rode out with her yesterday afternoon, and she sent for me to go to Wexham pond with her this afternoon; called to excuse myself and tell her of my projected journey; she regretted it as I was to have gone to Medford with her the next week, and she had planned several parties for me which would be frustrated; but she acknowledged I was perfectly right to go, and if ’twas her daughter she should be much gratified at the opportunity. Mr. and Mrs. Derby say I must tell you they will take good _care_ of me and they shall take the full protection of me. Write me soon, or request my Father or Octavia; but pray if you disapprove, do not tell me till I return, ’twill be too late to alter or retract, and I should be wretched if I thought you disapproved my going,—do write, or ask my Father, I shall feel uneasy. My love to all friends, and believe me, with great affection, Your
ELIZA.
Francestown (New Hampshire), July 26, 1802.
My dear Father:
My letter in which I informed you of my intended journey, my motives for it, etc., you will receive before this, I therefore think it unnecessary to say any more, but rest with full confidence on the indulgent heart of an affectionate Father, who I trust knows my heart too well to think me capable of acting in opposition to what I know to be his wishes. We left Salem on Thursday evening and slept at Ten hills in Charleston, breakfasted in Webrion,[31] and dined in Betavia.[32] We had a fine view of the celebrated Middlesex canal, which in future ages must do honor to our country,—such monuments of industry and perseverance raise our opinion of our countrymen; it will be 25 miles in length when completed, running from Deckel[33] to Medford river,—the river of Concord supplies it with water, boats pass every day, and parties of pleasure are always sailing on it. In my journal I have been more particular, here I say but little as we are in a miserable tavern and the horses almost ready. I cannot tell you the route we are going,—Mr. Derby’s motive is to see the most pleasant part of the country that he has not seen before. From Bilusia we came through Chelmsford, Inigsborough where old Irving lived and Miss Pitts, now Mrs. Brimby, the heiress of his fortune has a most elegant tasty country house on the banks of the Merrimack—which forms a most beautiful scene in front of the house and gives a full view of the river in each direction,—more of this in my journal. We are on a new turnpike road, from Amherst to Dartmouth. We shall go up to Dartmouth College as ’tis wholly a jaunt of pleasure, and Mr. Derby is determined to be in no haste, to enquire everything worth seeing and not to mind 6 or 7 miles from a direct road,—they are very attentive to me and have gone a mile from the direct road to show me something they had seen before. Mr. Derby has been such a traveller that he is now one of the most useful travelling companions in the world; his wife is the most engaging, unaffected, family woman in the world, and instead of feeling myself a burden to them, they make me feel of the utmost consequence. We passed thro’ several pretty villages on coming here—tho’ it is almost a new country, scarcely cleared up,—excepting a small village every 6 or 7 miles; the most hilly, mountainous, woody country I ever was in,—here as I look round me I see nothing but enormous high hills, covered with trees and almost mingling with the clouds. One of them in particular—Francestown[34] is about 12 miles from Amherst, a number of pleasant houses and a very elegant meeting-house,—how different from our part of the country!—here, if there is but one handsome house in town there will be a meeting house. I have passed but one on my journey, in these new back places, but what was painted and a steeple! From Dartmouth we go down to Northampton and then to Lebanon Springs, then to Ballstown and Saratoga, and return by the way of New Haven, Hartford, etc. I shall have a fine opportunity of seeing the country on Connecticut River. Mr. Derby does not know the route he shall go, but shall depend on what he hears; we shall go thro’ a part of the States of Vermont, Connecticut, and New York, so that in our tour we shall be in 5 different States. I shall write very often, and wish you, my Dear Father, to write me by the return of the mail, and direct to Pittsfield in Massachusetts,—or to Mr. John Derby in Salem. If we go thro’ Leicester I shall find out our relations. Tell Octavia and Horatio I shall write them soon, but as I keep a particular journal which they shall all see, ’tis not so material. I hear the carriage—love to all.
ELIZA.
Ballston Springs, August 22, 1802.
My Dearest Mother:
I feel at this moment as if I could fly! so far from home, received no letters, yet at Albany I expect to find them, let me at least hope what ’twill delight me so much to realize. I sometimes almost fear to receive a letter from home,—yet my indulgent Parents will pardon the liberty I took in coming this journey, as I trust they are convinced by my past life, that I would not for the universe act in opposition to what I knew they approved. I am convinced when you know Mr. and Mrs. Derby you will feel that I was both secure and honored in their protection. I cannot tell you half I owe them, never in my life was I treated with more affectionate attention. They appear as much interested in all I do as if I were their daughter. You know my heart, my dearest Mother, you know it never was insensible to the smallest favor, what then must be its sensation when it is thus overpowered by affectionate kindness. I long to convince them how much I feel, but words are inadequate. My Father has seen Mr. D., I wish he would write to him, I think it would be no more than just to thank him for the care he has taken of his daughter. It seems as if he had a right to expect something of the kind. They are the finest couple I know of, so different from what I expected to find them. I thought Mr. Derby a gay gallant man like Mr. Davis, but he is a plain, noble-hearted, sincere, generous man,—talks very little and one of the pleasantest dispositions in the world. In Mrs. Derby I thought to find a gay woman of fashion, but not a soul that ever knew her could help loving her. I never saw a person so universally beloved. We have been here at Ballston a fortnight to-morrow. It has been one continued scene of idleness and dissipation—have a ball every other night, ride, walk, stroll about the piazzas, dress,—indeed we do nothing that seems like improvement. But still I think there is no place where one may study the different characters and dispositions to greater advantage. You meet here the most genteel people from every part of our country,—ceremony is thrown off and you are acquainted very soon. You may select those you please for intimates, and among so many you certainly will find some agreeable, amiable companions. For a week we sat down at the table every day with 60 or 70 persons, to-day we were all speaking of the latter being very thin because we had only 40. There are as many more at the other boarding house, continually going and coming, and now there is scarcely 10 persons here that were here when we came. We went last week to _Lake George_, about 40 miles from here,—made up a party and went on Tuesday, breakfasted at _Saratoga_, where the Springs formerly most celebrated were, and dined about 14 miles this side the lake, at the most beautiful place I ever saw. Perhaps you have heard of Glens-Falls; they are said to exceed in _beauty_ the Falls of _Niagara_—tho’ in _sublimity_ must fall far short. I never imagined anything so picturesque, sublime and beautiful as the scenery around this enchanting place. The rocks on the shores have exactly the appearance of elegant, magnificent ruins, they are entirely of _slate_, and seem piled in regular forms with shrubs and grass growing in between. I looked around me for an hour and I every moment discovered something new to admire,—nothing could exceed the beautiful variety of the scenery. I left this elegant place with painful regret. About sunset we came in view of the _Lake_, it is a most beautiful sheet of water, Morse says 36 miles long and from one to 7 broad, full of beautiful Islands, 365 in all and of every size and shape. It is surrounded by very high hills and mountains rising one above the other in majestic grandeur. In the morning we went out to fish, sailed about 4 miles on the lake to a little Island where we went on shore,—nothing could exceed the beautiful grandeur of the prospect; we anchored off,—I found it very charming fishing, the water so perfectly transparent that we could see the fish swimming around the dock. Our first intention was to sail down the lake to Lake Champlain and visit the ruins of the fortifications at Ticonderoga, but some of our party dissuaded us from it. We saw the ruins of Fort George and the bloody pond—where so many poor wretches were thrown. We stopt on our return at the field where Burgoyne surrendered his army; it is now covered with corn and nothing to distinguish it from the surrounding fields; we returned by a different route, for 10 miles we rode directly on the banks of the Hudson river, nothing could be more delightful, our road wound with the river which was beautifully overhung with trees; we returned here Thursday night, found them dancing. I joined, and the next night we had a ball at the other house; there again I danced till 12 o’clock and the next morning got up quite sick,—to-day I am finely again and have made a resolution not to dance again whilst I stay here. This all think I can’t keep, but they shall see I can. Col. Boyd came here last week but went away while we were gone to Lake George—to Canada I believe. He says you had not heard of my coming when he left Portland, so he could tell me nothing new. We shall probably leave here on Tuesday or Wednesday, stay at Albany a few days and go to Lebanon again, perhaps to Williamston Commencement. We are engaged to spend the day at Mr. Rensselaer’s, the former L Governor, and one at Mr. Rensselaer’s—his brother, who is Mayor of the City. I know not how long ’twill be before we return to Salem, but I really begin to think of home with a great deal of anxiety. Tell Octavia I never go into the Ball room to dance without wishing for her; how delighted should I be if Horatio and Octavia were here with me! How charming will it be when I get home again! Believe me, my Dear Mother, I shall love home more than ever. I long to sit me down by the instrument some evening after the business of the day is over, with you, my Father, and all round me, or to hear Octavia sing and play. This scene of dissipation may please for a while by its novelty, but it soon satiates—no regular employment, I have never been in the habit of spending my time in idleness; and they say here that the Southern ladies seem more at home here than the Northern ladies and do not appear to think industry necessary to happiness. I hope to find many letters at Albany. I have kept a regular journal which will assist my memory in relating my adventures, when I return home again. I wrote Horatio last week and told him to send the letter home for you to read. I look forward to returning with the greatest pleasure. I suppose you are fixed upon a house and will move by the time I return, let me know as I am anxious to hear about it. Give my best love to all my friends and tell Octavia I have more to say to her than I can gabble in a month. Oh I long to get home again. I find no time to write, if I lock myself in my chamber I have so many knocks at the door—Miss Southgate go and walk—go down to the spring—somebody wants you below,—so many interruptions, ’tis almost impossible. After I retire for the night I am so tired and sleepy and my chamber is so hot, I _cannot_ write; ’tis Sunday to-day (tho’ all days are alike here) and I have determined I would write home. I wonder how it was possible for Martha to write so much,—I hear of her from all the Southern people, they all speak in raptures. Give my love to Mrs. Coffin and kiss all the children—Mamy particularly, what would I give to hear her open my door and run in this moment. Mrs. Derby says I get low-spirited when I write home, the only way is to think as little of it as possible whilst I am so far off. I shall write again from Albany, where I hope to find letters.
Ever your affectionate ELIZA.
To the care of Robert Southgate, Scarborough, (District of Maine.)
[Illustration:
THE VAN RENSSELAER MANOR HOUSE ]
Albany, August 8, 1802.
Thus far, my dear Ellen, have we proceeded without any thing to mortify or disappoint us; I wrote you the night I arrived at Lebanon, the next morning the bell rang and we all assembled to breakfast; there were about thirty ladies, much dressed, looking very handsome, it seemed more like a ball room than a breakfasting room. We were the last that came in, and all eyes were fixed upon us. Lady Nesbert and the Allston family from Carolina were opposite. This daughter of Col. Burr is a little, smart-looking woman, very _learned_ they say, understands the dead languages—not pedantic, rather reserved—Lady Nesbert,[35] a most interesting woman, full black eyes with a wild melancholy expression and a voice so sweet and plaintive, you would think it melancholy music. I never heard her speak a dozen times since I have been here and rarely ever smile. Old Mrs. Allston, the mother, is a _sour-looking_ woman, nothing affable or condescending. Miss Allston, they say, is a romp, though her mother restrains her so much you would not suspect it. Old Mr. Allston[36] is affable and agreeable. We had likewise there a Mr. Constable[37] of N. Y.; has lived in great style,—very much the gentleman.