V.

APRIL 25, 1895.

Early in the morning of the 24th, at Jerusalem, we headed our horses due north, commencing our long camping tour of eighteen days from Jerusalem to Beyrout, getting a view of old historic relics and towers that cannot be reached in any other way; that is, over a road that is either foot or horseback, and hotels are rocky, few, and far between.

After crossing the Kedron valley, we commenced to climb hills and descend into valleys, and soon were on what is called the Damascus road; that is, if it can be called a road. Our first elevation was over Mount Scopus. Here was where Titus’s camp was pitched. Here the doom of the Holy City was decreed. We thought of the holy family pursuing their way from the great religious festivals to Nazareth. We passed Bier, where tradition says the holy child was first missed.

Our first halt was some two miles out from Jerusalem, at the tombs of the kings; and, as we proceeded on our journey, we found the ascending and descending growing in steepness, the rocks and ledges fearful. We thought of General Putnam riding down the stone steps, and decided that we could put the general in the shade. The horses here are trained for these roads, and are sure-footed. Let them have the reins, and they will take you to the bottom of the hill in safety, over places you would hardly dare go down on foot. The horses are shod with a flat shoe that nearly covers the whole foot, and it is a mystery how they stand on the ledges as they do. Woe to the man that attempts to ride an American horse over the roads we have travelled!

As we passed on from Mount Scopus, we see to our right, upon a hill-top, the town of Ramah, where Samuel was born and buried. Farther on we passed the town of Ophrah, the home of Gideon, but saw nothing of the men that lapped water. About eleven o’clock we go down into the valley, and find our lunch-tent pitched in a green place, once a reservoir, and find it to be the town of Bethel. Here was the spot where Abraham and Jacob watered their flocks, and Jacob set up the pillar of stones at this place. Here was where Jeroboam set up his false worship, which proved a thorn in the sides of the Jewish kings, having an unfriendly capital so near Mount Zion, with the golden calf ready to attract the loose-minded.

The ways of sin are always more attractive than the ways of righteousness to the thoughtless and indifferent.

We rested ourselves and horses here some two hours, and then were in the saddle four hours, bringing us into a pleasant valley, near a little town without historic interest, and where we tented for the night. _Table d’hôte_ was good, and a good night’s rest was the verdict in the morning; and we moved on, and soon halted at Shiloh, located on high ground, commanding a fine view. Here was where the ark of God rested twenty years; and here was where Eli died. All there is left to-day are foundation walls, ruins, and an historic name. We found the travelling better to-day than the day we started, which we enjoyed as travellers in a strange land.

While we were upon the mountains a part of the time, yet we passed through some beautiful valleys. Rev. Mr. Green, formerly of Hartford, Vt., to whom I have referred before as a botanist, travelling here, informed us that there were fifteen hundred varieties of wild flowers. The fields of Palestine are full of them. In many places you will see beautiful green tapestry, full of flowers. This might be called the flowery kingdom; and we got many beautiful landscape views.

On we ride, feasting our eyes; and at twelve o’clock we halt at Jacob’s well for lunch. Here was where the Saviour talked with the women of Samaria, where he spoke to his disciples of the fields being ripe for the harvest; and we imagined he saw the fields as we can see them to-day. As you stand at the well, facing east, you have thousands of acres of beautiful plain land before you, covered with waving grain nearly ready for the sickle. We halted at this lovely spot some three hours. A few minutes’ walk north from our tent brings you to the tomb of Joseph, who was the son of Jacob. You well remember that his bones were brought here and buried. We have been travelling north through historic grounds, where the old patriarchs had roamed with their herds, passed the town of Dothan, where Jacob sent his son Joseph to look after his brothers, and crossed the track of the caravan going to Egypt, taking Joseph with them. It has been a panorama of historical events.

When we are in the saddle again, we turn square to the left, going west, down through the narrow valley of Shechem, passing between Mount Gerizim on our left and Mount Ebal on the right. Here was where the people stood in the valley, and the blessings were pronounced from Mount Gerizim, and the cursings from Mount Ebal, and the people said, “Amen.” Principles declared there that have held good ever since,--The ways of righteousness are easy, but the ways of sin are hard. Here was where the people asked Rehoboam for more clemency; but the foolish boy discarded the counsel of the older men, and told them that his father had chastised them with whips, but he would with scorpions.

About one hour’s ride, and we were at Nablous, the old town of Shechem, where we found our tents pitched in a beautiful olive grove; and we turned in for the night, being well satisfied with our day’s work, this being the spot and place, as you will see by the date, where I commenced this letter. This is a town of some twenty thousand people, strongly antichristian, who gave us many scowls as we passed through the town. This being noted as a hard place, we had some eight or ten soldiers from the barracks added to our guard force for the night.

The people here manufacture large quantities of olive soap, which they brought to our tents for sale, also tobacco pouches made of goat and sheep skins. We went into a Samaritan church, and saw the priest, and bought some of his photographs. He showed us the five books of Moses written on parchment that was thirty-five hundred years old. Nablous is famous for its great number of springs coming out of Mount Gerizim, which are used along down the valley for irrigation, producing beautiful fields and gardens. These springs are refreshing to a traveller in this country, as there is a terrible dearth of that article through Palestine.

Friday, the 26th, we were on the march bright and early, passing down the valley some two miles over a fine road which leads to Jaffa. But we are bound for Nazareth. So we turn to the right into a bridle-path, and begin to climb; and, when you are near the top of this elevation, cast your eye to the south, looking across the valley we have just left to the hill the other side, and you will get the grandest view in Palestine. The side of the mountain is somewhat free from stone, and seems to be terraced up the beautiful slopes with straight, conical, and crescent terraces, covered with a rich verdure, filled with the flowers of the land.

We pass over this mountain, and as we commence to descend the other side, we see across the valley the historical town of Samaria, standing upon a high elevation. We descend into the valley, and climb up into one of the oldest and most degraded-looking towns we have been called upon to pass through. We saw the pool of Samaria where Ahab’s chariot was washed. Ahab was slain in his chariot in battle and taken to this place. Here he had his winter residence with his ivory palace. We saw some of the foundation and columns, which is all that is left of it. We saw some of the columns of the colonnade that extended from the city gate to the palace, some three thousand feet. We leave this town, once so splendid, feeling that sin and misery have done their perfect work. The rest of the day we are passing through wheat fields and one of the largest olive orchards in Palestine, and at five o’clock reach Jenin where we tent for the night.

Jenin is on the border of the wonderful valley of Esdraelon. This town is modern, but is said to be the place where Christ healed the ten lepers. Here we saw some palm-trees which made us think of Egypt. It was a question whether they were strayed or stolen; but they looked thrifty, and we decided that the breezes from the valley of Esdraelon had been fanning them. This valley is different from the Jordan, being rich and fertile; and, unlike the prairies of the West, it has many conical hills and even mountains scattered over its broad acres. And, as in David’s and Solomon’s time, Jerusalem and Mount Zion were the joy of the whole earth in a spiritual sense, so, it seems to me, the valley of Esdraelon must have been the joy in a temporal view. It seems to be the great granary of Palestine.

Saturday morning, the 27th, the sun rose clear and bright, and we expected a scorching day across the valley, which takes nearly all day; but the Lord sent the clouds to cover us as he did the children of Israel, and we had the most satisfactory day of the week. One hour from Jenin we reached Jezreel, standing upon a high elevation. Here was Ahab’s summer residence, here also was Naboth’s vineyard. We rode upon this elevation, left our saddles, and looked over the town, which now consists mostly of mud huts, save the old stone palace and the window where Jezebel came down, and the dogs devoured her; and I have the impression that they have kept in Palestine the same breed of dogs ever since, for we find here the meanest dogs in the world. They seem to delight in barking nights, keeping poor mortals awake. If some one could get at them with stones and knock the bark off of them, it would be a blessing to every one.

Now, if you will stand by me on this elevation with your face northward, looking down on the plain at your right, you will see the fountain of Gideon. In front of you is where the Midianite forces were gathered when Gideon routed them with his hundred men. Now look across the valley some three miles to another mountain elevation, which is Little Hermon. At the base is the town of Shunem, where the woman had the prophet’s chamber, where Elisha raised the boy to life. Now cast your eye to the left some ten miles distant, and you see Mount Carmel. To this mount the servant ran for Elisha; and the prophet asked, “Is it well with the child?”

We mount our horses, and descend from Jezreel into the valley, and soon are at the town of Shunem. Going through the town, we turn to the left, winding our way around the base of this elevation, reaching the other side, where we find the town of Nain, where Christ raised the widow’s son. Here we find our luncheon-tent, and remain here some two hours.

About two miles north of us is Mount Tabor, where, it has been claimed, the transfiguration took place. We are about two hours’ ride from Nazareth. Leaving at 2.30, we soon finish crossing the valley of Esdraelon, and go up a steep elevation with bad roads. We make our way gradually, rising several hundred feet above the plain. We then make a little descent into a valley almost surrounded by hills, and find the beautiful little town of Nazareth. You will call it a place of retirement. Here is a little valley with hills surrounding it, from fifty to one hundred feet high. At first sight, you will say the plateau of land is round; but on close examination you will decide the length is nearly twice the width, which, I should say, is less than a half-mile across. The buildings are not on this plain, but are in crescent form at the base of the hills.

At the upper part of the valley the plain is used as a common and for gardens. We are tented on the common of some twenty-five acres, carpeted with green grass and dotted with flowers, spending the Sabbath in quiet. Dr. Dunning preached to us to-day as we gathered in front of our dining-tent, taking for his subject, largely, the human side of the life of Christ, and made it very interesting. Nowhere could such a sermon be made so impressive as here, where Christ’s childhood days were spent. We have visited the workshop of Joseph and the home of Mary, the church of annunciation, where the angel appeared to Mary the virgin, the fountain, the synagogue where Christ taught; and we have been through the bazaars and many of the straight and narrow streets.

Nazareth, unlike many towns in this region, is strongly Christian,--three thousand nine hundred Christian and nineteen hundred of other classes,--not a Jew lives here,--a much better class of people than we usually meet, and many neat and pretty children, fine-looking women coming to Mary’s fountain and filling their water-jars, that hold from one to two pails. We found these jars to be heavy, and put one of them upon Mrs. Dunning’s head. There were many of these women at the fountain, and they seemed to enjoy the interview we had with them; and we were interested to see them walk off with the jar on their heads with such indifference.

We came into Nazareth from the south over a rough road, and shall go north-east Monday to Tiberias, expecting a much better road.

MONDAY, the 29th.

Our ride to Tiberias is a long one. Therefore, we are called at five o’clock, and are in the saddle at six, wending our way up the hill out of Nazareth, taking with regret a farewell look at the prettiest town we have seen yet, since we placed our feet in the land of Palestine. The Jews thought no good thing could come out of this little town among the mountains; but the stone that was cut out of the mountain here is filling the whole earth, and there seems to be a hallowed sacredness as we tread the same streets that were trodden by Him who came to bless all mankind.

One hour takes us over the hill down into a beautiful valley; and at one side of the valley, nestled upon the brow of the hill, stands the little village of Cana. In front and around it are spread out the groves of olives, figs, and pomegranate trees, making a beautiful picture. At the edge of the town is a copious spring, where they water their flocks, and the maidens come with their water-jars.

We went into the town, and at the church we saw the old stone water-pots that were used at the wedding; and, certainly, they looked old enough to have been used in Noah’s ark.

From Cana we passed on through a beautiful country, valleys, and elevations, where we could canter our horses at pleasure. We passed the home of Jonah, and about ten o’clock came to the Mount of Beatitudes. The day was hot; but old snow-capped Hermon, towering up nine thousand feet, seemingly a short distance to our left, seemed to nod his head to us, saying, “Keep cool.”

The place where it is supposed Christ preached his wonderful sermon is a small, conical hill, some fifty feet high, with the ground gradually sloping from it, and is beautiful to look upon. Whether this is the place or some other elevation near here makes but little difference. We have the sermon, rich in thought,--principles laid down, that are, for the healing of the nations; and it seems as though Nature in her beauty in this locality responded to those teachings, and said, “Amen,” for no artist with pencil and brush, tapestry and Persian art added, could attract the eye of the lovers of the beautiful as the hills, vales, and dales about the Mount of Beatitudes. The hills here are different from those about Jerusalem. They have lost their granite and limestone ribs, and this is a section of country that would attract a Vermont farmer.

We pass on from this point, and sight the Sea of Galilee down deep in the valley, with its peaceful waters. We wend our way down a steep hill, and soon are at the little seaport town of Tiberias. Passing through the village down the shore half a mile, we find our lunch-tent. Just below it is the hot sulphur spring, with bathing-houses; and they are patronized by many people. We spend some time on the shore, gathering pebbles and shells. We can see the whole length of the sea, thirteen miles; and it averages six miles wide. Yet you would not think it to be half that distance.

Few places in Palestine have more historical interest connected with the three years’ labor of the Saviour than the Sea of Galilee. We wondered where he fed the multitude, where he launched out in a boat and taught the people, at what point was he when he stilled the waters, where did he order the disciples to cast the net on the other side of the boat, etc. We now are near the south end of the lake, which runs north and south. Here we take four sail and row boats going north. When we start, the waters are smooth as glass, and our oarsmen, four of them to each boat, use the oars; but before we had been on the water half an hour the wind seemed to come down upon us, and they spread their sails, and we sped through the troubled waters rapidly. It was wonderful how quickly the waters were troubled. At the head of the lake we visit the old site of Capernaum. About all there is left is the location, and few ruins, except a new building occupied by the monks.

From this spot we sail west, passing the old town of Bethsaida, the home of the fishermen that Christ called to be his disciples, landing at the plains of Chinnereth, where we camp for the night. We were three hours on the water, and enjoyed it much. The river Jordan enters the Sea of Galilee at the north end, leaving it at the south end, going on its way sixty miles to the Dead Sea. When we reached our tents, our day’s work was done, being full of interest all the way from Nazareth to the sea.

Tuesday morning we started north up over the mountain. Found a rough country. We let our horses have the bit and bridle, and they took us over places we hope never to pass again. Yesterday we were going to send for our Vermont farmer friend, as we had found the garden of the world; but to-day we are ready to say “stick to Vermont.” After three hours’ ride we seemed to be on the top of the mountain, and could look south and see the Sea of Galilee, look north and see the waters of Merom, where we are tenting to-night. Our tents form a circle; and in the circle we have a bonfire, and are being entertained by about fifty Bedouins, singing and dancing and practising with the broadsword. We had our lunch to-day some three miles south of this place, where there was a large spring coming out of the mountain. Fine water for this country, and enough of it to run a grist mill of some four run of stones; but the grain feeds into the mill about as fast as a good smart Vermont hen would pick it up, and was the crudest mill mortal man ever set eyes upon.

After leaving the Sea of Galilee and crossing the mountain, we came into the Jordan valley, but skirted along its edge near the mountain, and found many springs coming out of the mountains, sending their streams of pure water out into that historic river, the Jordan. We are now travelling in the region of Naphtali. Up the valley Joshua swept with his army when he took the land of Canaan. The Jordan valley here is much more fertile than we found it at Jericho, and is almost wholly occupied by the Bedouins. They live in tents unlike any other tent you will have the privilege of looking upon. They have cloth made out of goat’s hair, black, which is set up on sticks, the highest in the centre being long and narrow, raised five or six feet from the ground. Around the edges they fit up bamboo or anything they can get. I have counted seventy of these tents in a cluster. It makes a black-looking village. The tents are black, the skin of the people the same color, the character as black as you please. They till the soil but very little. They have their cattle, living on milk and beef, with some poultry and eggs, and roam from place to place as herdsmen. The cattle here in Palestine are mostly small black cattle; when grown, about the size of our yearlings.

But I see in this valley the Bedouins have some of the Egyptian breed of cattle. They are large, coarse, and homely. I think they would smile to see our Vermont Durhams.

[Illustration: BEDOUINS WITH THEIR HARPS.]