II.

ON THE NILE, March 17, 1895.

My last letter was written when we first commenced our trip up this wonderful river, but it was about matters that my eye had witnessed before reaching Cairo. On our arrival at Cairo, which was Wednesday, the 13th, about noon, carriages took us direct to the “Memphis,” our Nile boat, which was to start up the river at 5 P.M. This boat was chartered by the Gaze Company expressly for our party, which just fills all the cabins on the boat. It is about one hundred and ninety feet long, considered one of the best on the river, and is more than satisfactory to our party.

After lunch we took carriages for two hours, and went to the stores, as many of the party wished to make purchases for the Nile tour, which it is expected will be a warm one, and needs a light headgear, white umbrella, etc. These are needed when we take our horseback or donkey rides from different landings out into the country, of which we have some ten.

The Nile is said to be the most wonderful river in the world, thirty-three hundred miles long. The last twelve hundred miles not a tributary enters it; and the amount of water it pours into the sea after its evaporation in travelling three thousand miles through the desert, and its countless irrigating canals in Egypt, transforming this section of country into the most fertile land in the world, make it wonderful. Egypt is often said to be the gift of the Nile, a mere strip of alluvial soil bordering the river on either side, from one-half to thirty miles wide. All the rest is a broad desert. The source has been and still is a mystery, though the late explorations make it possible that the great lake, Victoria Nyanza, is its feeder. The melting of the snow on the far-off mountains is the cause of its rise and overflow. But the historical associations are more interesting than its natural features. On its banks was developed the oldest civilization of the world. Its massive monuments along its banks are a matter of interest to-day. It had the honor of cradling the Deliverer of the nations. As we left Cairo, we were pointed out the spot where Pharaoh’s daughter found Moses.

Our party are confident of an interesting time going up and down these great waters. They have boats here with cabins in the centre, enough for ten or twelve persons, with place in front end of boat for ten oarsmen, five on a side, with very long oars. The natives row finely, dipping their oars at exactly the same time, running their boats rapidly. These boats are chartered by parties going up and down the Nile. We met yesterday a gentleman and his family from California in one of them, coming down the river. Some of our party have the American flag with them. This was flung to the breeze as we passed them, and the cheers went back and forth in great earnest. We felt for a moment as though we were the other side of the Atlantic.

Well, to go back to the starting-point. Five o’clock Wednesday, the 13th, all on board, with our luggage packed away in our cabins, our steamer that was lying close to the Rasr el-Nil bridge, that is twelve hundred and sixty feet long, built by a French company, and is a model of work well done, started her engines, and swung out into the broad river, and our journey of twenty-one days on its smooth waters had begun. The Gaze Company have engaged a dragoman named Hasham, who was born in Arabia, but has been educated and lived in Egypt, to take this Nile trip with us. Hasham knows the country, and can handle the natives that we shall have much to do with in our short excursions we are to take from the boat.

[Illustration: HASHAM, OUR DRAGOMAN.]

At dinner, which was served at six, Hasham came in, and gave notice that breakfast would be at six to-morrow morning, rising bell would ring at five. Some of our ladies thought this was starting rather early; but as the first donkey ride was to commence then, I think they would have met the requirements if it had been three o’clock. But Thursday morning found every one on hand. Our boat had the evening before run up the river fifteen miles, and anchored at Bedrashayn; and, when we came out from breakfast, we saw on the bank of the river forty Arabs, each one with a donkey all saddled and bridled and ready for the fracas. The saddles and bridles are furnished by the Gaze Company, and are first-class. Soon we were all mounted and on our way. Every donkey was followed by an Arab, who was anxious to have his donkey get to the point of destination first, and would put it into the gallop, and run behind with the alertness of an antelope. One thing was wonderful,--among the forty people of our party there was not a poor rider: even the ladies were all fine riders. This excursion would have been a good entertainment for any New England village. Our first stop was at the sarcophagus of Rameses II., which was immense in size. We also went into his tomb. We also visited the ancient site of Memphis. This is supposed to be the oldest or first settlement in Egypt. It has been buried by the sand that has blown from the desert; but parts of it have been excavated, and interesting relics brought to light. We visited some of the Pyramids, also the tombs where the bones of the sacred bulls were buried. We were back again at our boat at eleven o’clock, having ridden fifteen miles. On our return came through an Arab village, saw misery in full bloom, looked into the school-rooms with children sitting on the ground, looked into the dark, smoky, dingy hovels where human beings stay, not live, but know nothing better, and were thankful that the lines had fallen to us in Christian America. We rode through fields of wheat, barley, flax, everything luxuriant; and, if a Christian civilization could be introduced, there would be no reason why these should not be the happiest people in the world.

At noon our boat started up the river, continuing its course until evening, then tying up for the night, which seems to be the custom of all boats on the Nile. This gave us a fine opportunity to sleep, making the trip delightful. Friday we were on the river all day, resting from our donkey ride the day before, having a chance to admire the scenery, which is constantly changing, with its groves of palms, fields of grain, villages, etc.

About 7 P.M. we reached Minieh, where we tied up for the night. This is a large place, with post and telegraph offices and the largest sugar factory in Egypt. Our dragoman, Mr. Hasham, proposed to have us visit these works, as they are running night and day. So with guides with lanterns we started through the town to the mill, and it proved very interesting to us. We had never seen anything of the kind before, commencing where the cane was taken from the wagons, put on tramways carrying it into the mill to the ponderous rolls where it was crushed, juice pressed out, which went into the tanks, the pulp going on to other tramways, carried out doors again, where it is dried and used for fuel. We followed the process of making the sugar, consisting of many different operations, until it came out granulated sugar, many of us taking samples that we will bring home. This mill employs two thousand men. The overseers get some $2.00 or $2.50 per day, but the bulk of them get from five to twenty cents per day. I have the impression the night and day help change at midnight, as there were hundreds lying about in the mill, asleep on the stone floor. Some had a piece of burlap under them, others the bare stone. The heat in the mill must have been ninety or one hundred degrees. The sugar is not as white as our granulated.

Early Saturday morning we reached Beni-Hassan, where we visited the tombs of Ameni and Knum hotep, calling for another donkey ride of about half the distance of the one we took Thursday. It is said there is the toughest set of Arabs here of any place on the river, and it was pathetic and amusing to see our dragoman Hasham lash them with his big cudgel of a whip he carried. He also provided two policemen with guns to go along with the party. But everything went off like clock-work; and it was the verdict of every one, Well done, Mr. Dragoman.

Saturday night we anchored in the river. About five Sunday morning the boat started, and ran up to Assiout, arriving about 7 A.M., where we tied up for the forenoon. This is a large town, some forty thousand, of whom twelve thousand are said to be Christians. Here the Presbyterians have a large mission station. We attended divine service. While everything was in an unknown tongue, yet it was interesting to see them. The audience consisted of about four hundred young men and boys and one hundred girls. They all sang with a will, and gave strict attention to the sermon, singing American tunes. One was “St. Martin.” I could handle the tune better than I could the words. To cater to the laws of the land, the girls sat by themselves in the front pews, with a curtain drawn across the church, not so high but what those behind could see the minister, who stood on a platform raised some three feet. The majority of the young men were fine-looking,--that is, fine features and form,--but dark skin. This work was commenced 1852, has been largely among the Coptics, though many Mohammedans have come in. The Coptics are what would be called a corrupt Christianity. This mission’s headquarters are here; but they work all over Egypt, and have thousands in their churches. The work was very slow at first, but of late years has been making progress. Mr. Alexander, the minister, met us after meeting, and gave us a brief history of the work and the people.

Coming from church, we went through the business bazaars. Everything running in full bloom. Surely, Egypt is an Oriental country. You see it at every turn you make.

At 5 P.M. the Rev. Mr. Darsie, of Kentucky, who is one of our party, preached to us on deck. Dr. Dunning read the Scriptures, reading the story of Joseph’s brethren going down to Egypt to buy corn. He said he took that subject because he should never have a chance to read it again on the ground where the scene transpired and his audience would never hear it again under existing circumstances. Our clergyman claims that Pharaoh lived very near Cairo, either Memphis, the ruins that we visited at the commencement of the journey, or Yoan, which is a little nearer Cairo than Memphis.

MONDAY MORNING.

We had a warm night. Mercury this morning stands at seventy.

We are now passing quite a large town. The banks are lined with Arabs, boat-loads of stone water-bottles going down the river.