Chapter 4 of 11 · 3851 words · ~19 min read

Part 4

May those who visit this temple for the purpose of examining it as a building made with hands, ever bear in mind the great and solemn purpose for which it was erected--the worship of Almighty God--and let their aspirations of prayer and praise ascend to Him in thankfulness for the privilege afforded to them of freely and openly worshipping Him, who as freely invites all to become partakers of a home made without hands, eternal in the heavens.

+The South-west Transept+

was, until a few years ago, separated from the Tower by a wall of stud and plaster, and used as a receptacle for materials required for the repair of the fabric, but is now thrown open in all its beauty; it has been repaired and restored at considerable expense.

The architecture of this portion of the Cathedral is worthy of special notice; the various forms of the arches, and the beautiful mouldings and ornaments on some of them, cannot but attract attention. The panelled ceiling has been painted by T. Gambier Parry, Esq., of Highnam Court, Gloucester; the floor has been re-laid with encaustic tiles and marble; a new font[28] in the transitional style, has been placed here, at the cost of the late Canon Selwyn, and this Transept will in future be used as the Baptistry of the Cathedral. Several windows, which had for many years been blocked up with stone and rubbish, have been re-opened, and those of the lower tier at the south end filled with stained glass by Mr. Wailes:

The west window contains--the Meeting of Jacob and Rachel; the Choice of Esther; and the Crowning of Esther; and was the gift of Dean Peacock.

The east window comprises--the Meeting of Isaac and Rebecca; of Boaz and Ruth; and the Marriage at Cana: given by Hamilton Cooke, Esq., of Carr House, Doncaster.

[Footnote 28: A font, the gift of Dean Spencer, in 1693, formerly stood under the third arch on the south side of the Nave, but having no accordance in style with the architecture of the building, it has been removed, and placed in a newly erected church at Prickwillow, near Ely.]

Adjoining this Transept on the east is the apsidal +Chapel of St. Catharine+, for many years in ruins, but rebuilt in 1848, and the floor laid in a combination of marble and encaustic tiles, with borders of incised Portland stone, the incisions being filled with coloured cement; the windows have been filled with stained glass by Mr. Wilmshurst:

The east window, representing the Baptism of our Lord, by John, after a picture by Bassans; given by the Rev. W.G. Townley, of Upwell, Norfolk, as a memorial of his brother, R.G. Townley, Esq., of Fulbourn, for several years one of the representatives of the county in Parliament.

The subject of the other window is from the words of our Lord, "Suffer little children to come unto me;" from a picture by Overbeck: the gift of Canon Selwyn.

We now proceed on our course, and enter

+The Nave,+

which is of ample dimensions, being 203 feet in length; it has a lighter appearance than many churches of Norman architecture, and may be considered a late specimen of that style, having been finished about 1174. The length originally comprised thirteen bays, one of which has been included in the plan of the Octagon; there are no single cylindrical columns as in many churches, but the pillars are clustered and alternate in size and pattern; the arches appear to be somewhat higher than semicircular, being stilted, or some little way rectilinear before they take the circular bend. Those of the second tier comprehend in each two smaller ones, supported by a much lighter column; each compartment in the upper tier is divided into three small arches, the middle one being larger and higher than that on either side of it. Over the whole aisle on each side runs a broad gallery usually called the "triforium," lighted by Perpendicular windows in the outer wall; and above is the "clerestory," or "clear-story," affording a narrow passage in the thickness of the main wall, lighted by the original Norman windows; thus the height is divided into three parts--ground-story, triforium, and clerestory; and the breadth into the same number--nave, north aisle, and south aisle; probably designed as a type of the Trinity, as it is thought by many that these symbolical considerations were used in the building of churches in early ages.

A new floor has been laid in the Nave[29] in a design which introduces several kinds of stone and marble, each bay in a pattern differing from the adjoining one; the large slab of marble which laid in the second bay from the east, and from which the memorial brass has long disappeared, remains _in situ_, it is not known to whose memory it was originally placed, but evidently to some dignified ecclesiastic. Towards the west the floor has been lowered so as to shew the bases of the columns which had for many years been hidden. A semicircular roof-shaft runs from the floor to the top of the wall between the bays, but the roof, until lately, was open to view from the floor to the rafters; a new painted ceiling has been executed,[30] which adds much to the grandeur of the building.

[Footnote 29: Bishop Turton by his will left the sum of L500 towards this object, and Bishop Harold Browne gave a like sum towards the completion of the paving of the Nave and aisles.]

[Footnote 30: A portion of the expense of this work was defrayed by a bequest by the Rev. G. Millers, a Minor Canon, augmented by the liberality of his Executors to L400.]

This ceiling was commenced in 1858, by Henry Styleman le Strange, Esq., of Hunstanton Hall, and the six western bays were designed and the chief parts executed by him, and finished in 1861; his lamented decease in the following year gave rise to some fears as to its completion, but his friend T. Gambier Parry, Esq., undertook to finish the work so ably begun, as a token of affection to his memory, and it now presents a beautiful series of pictures in compartments, forming, as it were, a carefully studied epitome of the sacred history of man as recorded in Holy Scripture; and exhibiting specimens of skill and taste executed by two gentlemen of independent fortune that may be almost considered marvellous.

It may be mentioned that the ceiling is upwards of 200 feet long, and is 86 feet from the floor, and the general size of the principal figures in the painting is nine feet.

The central subjects are arranged in chronological order from the west, each being surrounded by a border varying in form, and containing a legend; in the ten western bays the subjects are supported by figures which are for the most part representations of Patriarchs and Prophets, carrying scrolls[31] upon which are written words of their own, bearing more or less forcibly upon the coming of the Messiah. The eleventh subject has, properly speaking, no supporters, but the Shepherds and the Magi are so arranged as to carry on the artistic effect of a central group with conspicuous lateral figures. In the twelfth and last subject, the picture extends entirely across the ceiling; in the centre is the Lord Jesus in His glorified humanity, seated on a throne, round about which is a "rainbow like unto an emerald." Above His head is the choir of Seraphim, painted in prismatic colours, and reflected in the "sea of glass before the throne." On the right and left are the figures of the twelve apostles seated; beyond them, on the dexter side, are two archangels, St. Gabriel, "the angel of redemption," holding the standard of the cross, and St. Raphael, holding a sword with its point downwards, expressive of victory and peace; at their feet rise three figures, typical of the blessed received into glory. On the sinister side are also two archangels, St. Uriel holding his sword downwards, and St. Michael spearing the dragon, expressive of the condemnation of, and victory over, sin. The figure of our Lord is connected with the tree of Jesse by its last branches, which break into scrolls and golden fruit at His feet.

[Footnote 31: In the key to the ceiling as represented in the two following pages, we have placed the words of the legends under the principal subjects, and the contents of the scrolls under the names of the persons represented.]

The arch which separates the Nave from the Octagon has also been decorated, as well as the wall which connects the arch with the ceiling; the design contains the evangelistic symbols of St. Matthew and St. John, and the text "Blessed be the Name of His Majesty for ever, and all the earth shall be filled with His Majesty. Amen and Amen."

[Transcriber's Note: In the original book, the following text in brackets is placed sideways along the right and left sides of a box around the rest of the text. The top and bottom of the box are represented here by a line of asterisks.]

[The heads forming the border represent the human ancestors of our Lord, according to the genealogy in St. Luke's Gospel; they commence at the Eastern end, and terminate at the Western, thus linking together the Glorified Manhood, as exhibited in the last of the pictorial representations, with the Creation of Man in the first.]

* * * * *

"Non nobis, Domini, non nobis, sed nomini tuo da gloriam."

12.

THE LORD IN GLORY.

'I am the root and the offspring of David, and the bright and morning star.'

11.

THE ADORATION OF THE SHEPHERDS AND OF THE MAGI.

'Unto us a child is born: Gentiles shall come to thy light, and Kings to the brightness of thy rising.'

"Sit splendor Domini Dei nostri super nos, et opera manuum nostrarum dirige super nos," &c.

* * * * *

Traces of early fresco work may be seen on some of the arches of the Nave, on both sides, and in all probability other parts were also decorated.

Before proceeding further eastward we will examine the

+Nave Aisles,+

commencing with that on the south, at the western end. We first observe a range of small semicircular arches running under the windows, with a chevron moulding over some of them; in the first bay from the west there is a row of intersecting arches over them. The vaulting is supported by semi-columns placed at the back of the pillars on one side, and on the other by wall-shafts between the windows, and forms a great contrast to the rich vaulting of the eastern portions of the Cathedral. Several traces of early fresco work may be observed in the vault of the tenth bay from the west, and in other places.

Under the fourth window is a doorway, which is, on the exterior, richly ornamented, filling all available space, the whole of the imposts, arch mouldings and capitals being thickly sculptured with interlaced carving. In the tympanum is a figure of the Saviour in an aureole (or 'glory' of a pointed oval shape), held up by two angels sitting, holding an open book surmounted by a cross in His left hand, His right being elevated in the act of benediction. The mouldings above, as well as the capitals, jambs, and pilasters, are enriched with running foliage, and with a series of medallions containing birds, animals, flowers, &c., some of which are very curious. This was formerly the Prior's entrance from the cloisters; it now opens into a private garden belonging to the Deanery.[32]

[Footnote 32: A new door, with scrollwork in iron, has been put in at the cost of the Bedfordshire Archaeological Society.]

Near this doorway stands a curious relic, deserving attention. It is the lower portion of a stone cross with a square pedestal, found some years ago at Haddenham, in the Isle of Ely, where it was used as a horse-block; the inscription on the pedestal is in Roman capitals, except the E, which is Saxon:

"LUCEM-TUAM-OVINO-DA-DEUS-ET-REQUI[=E].-AMEN."

A translation of it is thus given by Mr. Bentham: "Grant, O God, to Ovin, thy light and rest. Amen." On reference to the history of St. Etheldreda, foundress of the monastery at Ely,[33] to which allusion was made in the introduction to this work, it will be seen that her steward bore the name of Ovin, and it is not improbable that the cross was erected either to his honour during his life, or to his memory soon after his death; probably in the early part of the eighth century: this would make it earlier by nearly four hundred years than anything else in the church. The Bissexcentenary, or twelve-hundredth anniversary of the foundation of the monastery at Ely by St. Etheldreda was commemorated by a grand Festival in October, 1873.

[Footnote 33: Bentham's History, i. 45, &c.]

The doorway at the east end of the aisle, under the last window, formerly the entrance for the monks from the cloisters, now the south entrance to the Cathedral, is also worthy of special observation; the head is trefoiled, and ornamented with figures holding pastoral staves; above, two dragons are represented with their necks entwined; the mouldings are rich and various, and the capitals and jambs are sculptured with grotesque ornaments. By some persons it has been thought that these doorways were insertions, as they do not accord with the lines of the adjoining wall, perhaps brought from some other building, and re-erected here when the cloisters were built.

On the second pillar from the east end of the Nave in both aisles, may be observed a niche with a canopy, indicating the position of the rood-screen at the western extremity of the original Choir, which extended eastward across and beyond the space now covered by the Octagon.

The windows of the aisles, as also those of the triforium, were originally Norman, but were altered at some subsequent period to a later style; those, however, of this aisle have, with one exception, been restored to their original form, and all are filled with stained glass. We will endeavour to describe them in their order, beginning at the western end of the aisle.

_1st._ The days of Creation; Adam expelled from Eden; the punishment of Mankind; the Offerings of Cain and Abel--executed by Messrs. Henri and Alfred Gerente, of Paris; the contributions of Visitors to the Cathedral.

_2nd._ The Building of the ark; the entry into the ark; the Flood; and Noah's Sacrifice--by M. Alfred Gerente: the gift of Mrs. Pleasance Clough, as a memorial of her aunt, Susannah, wife of John Waddington, Esq.

_3rd._ The Annunciation; the Salutation of Mary and Elizabeth; the Birth of Christ--by Mr. Warrington: his own gift.

_4th._ The Tower of Babel and the Confusion of tongues--by Mr. Howes: the contribution of various tradesmen connected with the Cathedral.

_5th._ Abraham visited by angels; the expulsion of Hagar; and the Blessing of Jacob--by Mr. Gibbs, his own gift.

_6th._ The institution of the Passover; the Death of the firstborn; and the Exodus of the Israelites--by Mr. Howes, his own gift.

_7th._ The fall of the walls of Jericho; the passage of the Jordan; and the return of the spies--by Mr. Wailes: presented by the Rev. G. Millers, as a memorial of his wife.

_8th._ Samson slaying the lion; Samson carrying away the gates of Gaza; and Samson destroying the Philistines--executed and presented by M. Alfred Gerente.

_9th._ The history of the Venerable Bede--by Mr. Wailes: his own gift.

_10th._ David anointed; David playing before Saul; David chosen king; and David reproved by Nathan--by Mr. Hardman: presented by the ladies of the (then) Dean and Canons.

_11th._ The Judgment of Solomon; the Building of the Temple; the Dedication of the Temple; and the Queen of Sheba's visit--designed and executed by the Rev. A. Moore, of Walpole St. Peter, Norfolk, at the cost of the Chapter.

We now turn our attention to the north aisle, and observe a range of arches similar to those in the south aisle, but with the line of chevron moulding in the eastern bay only; an intermission under one of the windows marks the place where probably was a doorway for communication with the church of St. Cross, but closed above two hundred years ago, when the Lady Chapel was given for the use of the parish of the Holy Trinity in lieu of that church which had become ruinous.

The windows in this aisle retain their altered form; and all have been recently filled with stained glass; in describing them we will commence at the western end, as the subjects are arranged chronologically.

_1st._ From the history of our first parents--Adam tilling the ground; Cain ploughing the earth, and Abel attending sheep; Adam and Eve discovering the body of Abel--by Mr. Cottingham: presented by Mr. Bacon, Clerk of the Works to the Dean and Chapter, as a memorial of his father.

_2nd._ From the history of Lot--Angels visit Lot; Lot entertaining angels; the multitude struck with blindness; Sodom destroyed; Lot's departure; Lot entering Zoar--by Mr. Preedy; as a memorial of the Rev. John Maddy, D.D., Canon of the Cathedral.

_3rd._ From the History of Abraham--the Death of Sarah: Abraham purchasing the cave of Machpelah; and the Burial of Abraham--by Mr. Preedy: designed as a memorial of Mr. Freeman; given by his family.

_4th._ From the Book of Judges--Gideon and the Angel; Gideon's present consumed; the Midianites put to flight--by Mr. Ward: subscribed for by some of Her Majesty's Judges who were educated at the University of Cambridge.

_5th._ From the history of Samuel--Hannah praying; Samuel presented to Eli; Eli blesses Elkanah and Hannah; Samuel praying; Samuel called; Samuel telling his vision to Eli--by Messrs. Ward and Nixon: as a memorial of H.R. Evans, sen., Esq., for many years Chapter Clerk; given by his family.

_6th._ David and the Minstrels; executed by Mr. Oliphant, from designs by W.R. Dyce, Esq., R.A.: the gift of Mr. Thomas Ingram, Professor of Music, formerly a Chorister and Pupil in the Cathedral.

_7th._ From the history of Elijah--Elijah feeds the prophets in a cave; Elijah praying for rain; Elijah visited by angels--by Mr. Wailes: presented by Colonel Allix, as a memorial of Dr. Peter Allix, a former Dean of Ely.

_8th._ From the history of Elijah--Elijah fed by ravens; Translation of Elijah; Elijah's burnt offering--by Mr. Wailes: presented by J.J. Rawlinson, Esq., as a memorial of the Rev. G. Millers, Minor Canon, and author of a "Description of Ely Cathedral."

_9th._ From the history of Elisha--Elisha healing the Shunamite's son--by Mr. Wailes: presented by the Rev. S. Smith and others, connections and legatees of the Rev. J. Griffith, B.D., many years Minor Canon of the Cathedral.

_10th._ Events from the history of Hesekiah--by Mr. Wailes; presented as a memorial of Thomas Archer, Esq., of Ely, by his family.

_11th._ From the history of Jonah--the People of Ninevah mourning; Jonah preaching; Repentance of the Ninevites--by Mr. Edgland; presented by C. Steggall, Esq., Mus. Doc., designed as a memorial of his wife.

_12th._ From the history of Daniel--Daniel interpreting Nebuchadnezzar's dream; Daniel before king Darius; Daniel in the lion's den--by M. Lusson, of Paris: designed to commemorate the establishment of a Savings Bank in Ely, in 1839, being the contribution of certain subscribers, assisted by a special contribution from Canon J.H. Sparke.

A tablet on the wall, near the eastern window of this aisle, bears the following inscription:--

"1676, _Roger Clopton, Rector of Downham, Gave two hundred pounds, By which The greatest Part of the Nave of This Church Was paved._"

The Nave and aisles do not now require a gift of this kind, having been recently paved at considerable expense, but the floor of the Octagon, South Transept, and Choir aisles will require a large sum to complete them, and if some kind friends will follow the example of Roger Clopton it will indeed be a timely benefaction, and now very much to be desired as an important step towards the completion of the work of restoration.

Before examining the Octagon we will make some observations on

+The Great Transept.+